How to make a hole in thick rubber. Supplementing the compact toilet with a bidet function. Drilling small parts
The modern industry produces many different types of rubbers that are used in the most unexpected industries. Quite simply and quickly, you can find the necessary rubber gaskets or the necessary rubber blank at the nearest market. However, if you still need to make a rubber product with your own hands, then you will need a couple of simple tips on how to cut the rubber simply and neatly.
How to cut rubber with a knife:
Rubber can be quite varied in its properties, ranging from a very elastic and rather pliable material and ending with elastic durable rubber plates. The use of rubber can be found in a variety of ways, for example, cutting out a suitable sized water pad, a heel for boots, or a non-slip support under a glass surface. Many are cut from car tires all sorts of animals, swings, or make interior items. You can make flower beds from car tires, but for this you need to know how and with what to cut a car tire.
The secret is very simple, in order to neatly and simply cut a piece of rubber, you need a sharp knife, of course 🙂, and ordinary water.
A piece of elastic rubber, a sharp knife and water. First, you need to outline the cut line (it was enough for me to just align the knife blade).
We begin to cut the rubber with a knife. Cutting thick rubber with a knife becomes rather difficult as the blade deepens into the thickness. Rubber begins to become viscous, and if you overdo it, the rubber can even melt. Whatever this happens, and the knife went through the rubber like clockwork, it must be moistened with water (and not oil, in no case moistened with oil).
We wet the rubber with water and cut with a knife. When wet, the rubber becomes slippery, and the knife blade will not get stuck or melt the rubber, thereby you get a smooth and high-quality cut without much effort.
A rubber block cut with water. How to make a round hole in rubber:
Sometimes there is a need to cut rubber circles, for example, for non-slip legs under a stool, heels, or for spacers between two glasses. In order to cut flat rubber mugs, you need to choose metal pipe a suitable diameter, you also need a piston that is suitable for the tube diameter.
A - metal tube, B - piston You need to sharpen the edge of the iron tube with a sharpener or file.
Sharpened iron tube After you sharpen the tube, you need to insert it into the drill chuck, moisten the rubber with water and just start drilling the holes, having previously laid a piece of wood.
We drill round rubber gaskets With the help of such a simple device and water, you can drill as many smooth, neat rubber rounds as you like (I use them to make non-slip feet for devices). The sharpened tube acts on the principle of a drill, but as the circles are drilled, it is filled with them, and in order to pull them out, a special piston is needed. Then you simply push the rubber rounds out of the sharpened tube.
Squeeze the rubber bands out of the tube with a piston The main thing is not to forget to wet the rubber with water when drilling or cutting. It should be noted that it is much easier and more convenient to cut a circle using a sharpened tube than in the classical way - using a drill. However, if you need to drill through the rubber with a drill, it is also quite easy to do this by sharply sharpening it first, and periodically dipping the drill into water.
It is necessary to drill rubber at low speed and periodically wetting the cutting edge. However, if you need to drill a large block of rubber at high RPM, you may want to submerge it completely in the water.
Drilling rubber in water with a drill. In the most extreme case, holes in thin rubber, as in plastic, can be melted by heating a drill shank or an iron tube with a lighter.
Rubber-melted holes The main thing is to be careful when working with hot metal. Also remember that when overheated rubber can emit toxic substances, therefore, melt holes under the hood or in a well-ventilated area. Observe all safety regulations even when drilling rubber.
1. PASTA-BALM FOR HEALTH OF TEETH AND GUM WITH OWN HANDS. 2. All about female hormones. 3. 5 reasons to drink lemon water on an empty stomach in the morning: 4. Top 8 healthiest fruits. 5. The true power of the dandelion. 6. Losing weight with flaxseeds. 7. This mask makes your hair grow like crazy! 8. NECK AND DECOLTE ZONE: 9. 14 ways to quickly relieve stress. 10. The benefits of black clay. 11. Anti-stress balm. 12. FOR BACK PAIN. #beautyhealth \u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d \u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d\u003d PASTA-BALM FOR HEALTH OF TEETH AND GUM WITH OWN HANDS. The paste is intended for cleaning teeth and treating gums. Consists entirely of natural ingredients. Suitable for children, you can swallow without fear for your health. Has a pronounced smell of propolis and cloves, pleasant to the taste. The paste is not at all abrasive, made on the basis of pure chalk. Does not contain soda, which many manufacturers add to pastes. Soda damages tooth enamel, although it is a whitening ingredient. Composition: base - calcium carbonate (pure chalk) Propolis solution. Medical tests have shown that propolis reduces the enzymes that help bacteria “adhere” to the surface of the tooth by 70%. Scientists have found almost a hundred in propolis component parts and two substances that protect teeth. Propolis is one of the best remedies for gum disease. Cedar gum and cedar oil. They have an anti-inflammatory and healing effect on the gums. The gum has absorbing, healing and antiseptic properties. Scientists have proven that cedar resin has an antitumor effect. Strengthens the gums. Clove tincture. It has a strong healing effect. (used in dental surgeries when the "medicine" is put in) Honey. Enhances the absorption of nutrients, imparts a mild sweet taste (instead of glycerin, which is used in industrial toothpastes). If the teeth are damaged, it does not cause pain from getting in due to the small amount. Natural essential oil anise and mint. The composition can be varied - something to add, and something to remove. The proportions are approximately as follows: 50 grams of chalk + 1 tsp each of cedar oil and resin solution, 1 tablespoon each of propolis and clove tinctures. If something is not there, then you can do without it. When preparing, everyone will get their own recipe, their own taste and their own consistency (but it is better, of course, to make the paste into a paste))) Use as a paste for cleaning teeth: The paste-balm has the consistency of a paste, so you can easily "scoop up" a small amount with a wet brush ... Over time, you will determine the amount you need yourself. Attention! The paste DOES NOT FOAM! The foaming agents found in industrial pastes are harmful to the teeth. You don't need any foam to clean your teeth. Cleaning takes place at the expense of the chalk, which is part of the paste and your toothbrush, the rest of the substances heal, have a healing effect. A liquid fraction can form on the surface of the paste - this is a clove solution, feel free to use it as a gum balm. Using the balm for medicinal purposes: Rub the balm on the teeth and gums with clean fingers. If you suffer from periodontitis, you need to do a daily massage of the gums with balm, thumb and forefinger from the gum up along the tooth. After applying the balm, leave the balm for 5 minutes, then wash off by rinsing your mouth. The balm can be swallowed, since all the components are also used internally for treatment, but it should be remembered that the balm picks up microbes from the oral cavity, so it is better to spit it out. If you suffer from gum disease, you can make an intensive treatment balm (for an overnight massage, leaving the balm on your gums). The composition of the balm: a solution of cedar resin, cedar oil, beeswax. The balm has the consistency of a liquid cream, a bitter cedar taste, relieves pain and pulling sensations from the gums within the first minute. It has a colossal healing effect (your gums have already been cured) TIP: when brushing your teeth, it is better not to take a lot of paste at once, but take a little several times for the outer surface of the teeth, chewing surface, etc. Author: Anastasia Aryamnova
§ ten. DRILLING AND BURNING Corkscrews
The holes in the stoppers are most often made to allow the passage of glass tubes. Do not make holes by piercing with an awl, since the cork will crumble and the hole will turn out to be extremely uneven and unsuitable for holding the tube tightly.
Figure: 237. Correctly and Incorrectly Drilled open stiya. Burning the cork(E).Expanding the hole(F).
When starting drilling, you should make sure that the drills are sharpened; only then will the hole come out even. Drilling is performed after fitting the plug to the neck. The drill diameter should be slightly smaller than the tube diameter. The cork should be held in hand, but not leaning against the table (fig. 236, E). It is advisable to place a second auxiliary plug between the plug to be drilled and the palm. and (fig. 236, D). Before drilling, the drills are moistened in water. Drilling begins by holding the drill as shown in Figure 236, AND. Then place your hand on the handle (Fig. 236, IN) and continue drilling, making sure that the center lines of the drill and plug match. When two or three holes are drilled, their axes should be parallel to each other (fig. 237, B and C). Do not push too hard on the drill, as this will cause the hole surface to be uneven.
The most critical is the last moment of drilling, when the drill is close to the outside. If you do not put an auxiliary plug and press firmly on the drill, then the plug at the exit of the drill will crumble (Fig. 237, D).
After drilling, remove the plug post from the drill immediately. B, pushing it out with a metal bar included in the set of drills (Fig. 236, F). With extreme care, it is necessary to drill two, and even more so three holes in one plug: it is important not to crumble the jumpers between them (Fig. 237, IN, FROM).
Burning the plug is done with the hot end of the steel bar (Fig. 237, E). The charred layer can be removed from the hole using a thin round file.
com. At the glass tube inserted into the hole, the end should be melted, which will facilitate this operation. The tube to be inserted must be turned while acting in the longitudinal direction (fig. 234). Useful for relief to wet the tube with water. Care should be taken to grasp the tube correctly to avoid kinking and injuring the hand (fig. 234).
Large holes in the plug can be cut out with a sharp round chisel and then leveled by filing with a round file (fig. 237,F).
§eleven. DRILLING RUBBER TUBES
Rubber plugs are more difficult to drill than cork plugs. Therefore, when drilling rubber plugs, it is necessary to use especially sharpened drills and, in addition, wet their working ends several times with a thick soapy solution (rub against a wet bar of soap and moisten with glycerin).
Do not press hard on the drills, especially at the end of the process, otherwise the hole will come out tapered. If, when removing the drill for the next lubrication, the rubber column breaks off and remains inside the drill, then it must be pushed out before further drilling.
Attempts to punch (puncture) a hole in the rubber stopper with an awl will be unsuccessful. Burning a hole with a red-hot metal rod is applicable only for thin layers of rubber. Burning is accompanied by the release of fumes with an unpleasant odor.
Glass tubes are inserted into the holes made in the same way as into the cortical ones (Fig. 234). Moistening with water or soapy water will facilitate this operation.
§ 12. CUTTING OF SHEET RUBBER
Rubber pipes and rubber sheets can be cut with a sharp knife or ordinary sharp scissors. Rubber filaments and strips can be cut from rubber sheets or cut lengthwise and flattened rubber tubes. It is necessary to cut with the sharpest knife or razor. In this case, you must use a metal ruler as a guide.
§ 13. MAKING HOLES IN RUBBER
Large holes in the rubber sheet can be cut with scissors or a sharp knife. To make small holes, use well-sharpened cork drills (with sheet rubber spread over a sheet of plywood). Very small holes in the rubber sheet and in the walls of the rubber tubes can be burned with a hot awl (fig. 238).
Figure: 238. Penetration of holes in a rubber tube.
This will make the edges of the hole sticky; to eliminate stickiness, they should be sprinkled with talcum powder.
§ 14. CONNECTION OF RUBBER TUBES
Rubber tubes of the same diameter are connected using a short metal or glass tube
Figure: 2 ^ 9. Putting the rubber tube on the glass.
Figure: 240. Glass connector (AND andIN).Attaching the rubber tube to the glass(CM).
(fig. 239, IN). The diameter of this tube is taken to be somewhat larger than the diameter of the lumen of the rubber tubes. The ends of the glass connecting tube must be rounded, which is achieved by melting them (chap. 12, section 9). In Figure 239,AND shows how to put the rubber tube on the glass.
To avoid slipping off the rubber tubes from the glass, they should be tied up with a wire or coarse thread (Fig. 240,FROM -G). Such tying is absolutely necessary in installations with mercury and in the case when gas or water under pressure is channeled through pipes. Screwing in the end of the rubber tube as shown in Figure 239, Cu £\u003e, increases the strength of the joint.
If the diameter of the connecting tube is less than the diameter of the rubber tube, then the required seal is achieved nama *
putting a strip of paper smeared with rubber glue on the end of the connecting tube (fig. 240, L), and tying the junction with wire (fig. 240, M).
There are commercially available connecting glass tubes equipped with bulges at the ends (Fig. 240, L and Z). A rubber tube put on such a connecting tube usually does not require a garter (Fig. 240, TO) To connect rubber pipes of various diameters, there are commercially available connecting conical tubes (couplings) with bulges of various diameters (Fig. 240, A and B).
To make the rubber tubes easier to slide over glass or metal connecting tubes, it is helpful to wet the ends with water.
The design of a bidet for an ordinary toilet has turned out to be quite simple and accessible for repetition by almost any home craftsman.
Toilet bowl water liner for bidet fountain
The first and most difficult question was how to bring water into the toilet bowl. I didn't want to fix the tube with the fitting on the toilet lid, as the lid has to be removed from time to time for washing. Drill a hole in the faience of the toilet difficult task, and the toilet can crack. Another visual inspection The toilet bowl for finding a way to lay a water conduit for a bidet suggested a simple solution.
Since the tube is flexible, it, having passed through the winding water conduit of the toilet bowl, at the entrance to its bowl, oriented itself arbitrarily by the end. To give the desired direction and the possibility of fixing the tube, as well as to be able to fix the nozzle on it, one of the brass elbows of the aforementioned telescopic antenna with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 150 mm was inserted into the tube after threading, from the side of the toilet bowl. With an inner diameter of the bidet tube of 4.5 mm, the elbow was easily inserted, but it could only be removed with considerable force.
Then the bidet tube with the antenna elbow inserted was pushed back into the toilet water pipe. Since the water conduit is not straight, but the tube is straight, then it, resting against the walls of the water conduit, is firmly fixed in it, even being slightly bent. It was a pleasant surprise, the question of fixing the bidet pipe was solved by itself.
Previously, in the immediate vicinity of the end, a rectangular hole was made in the brass tube on the lateral surface for the passage of water into the nozzle.
In the photo you can see how the pipe for the bidet fountain was installed in the toilet bowls. It turned out much better than I expected. It remains to invent and manufacture a nozzle.
One of the main requirements for the materials of the bidet conduit is corrosion resistance, therefore plastic and brass were used. Additional requirements are imposed on the fountain nozzle; the material must be antibacterial. Satisfying all these requirements, from available materials, it turned out to be a fluoroplastic, also called Teflon. Fluoroplastic is resistant to the external environment, does not dissolve even in aqua regia. Nothing sticks to it, not even bacteria and fungi. It has a snow-white color and is easy to process. Material ideal for making bidet nozzles.
In the center of a rectangular workpiece made of fluoroplastic with a size of 10 × 10 × 30 mm, along, a hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled to a depth of 25 mm. To determine the angle at which it will be necessary to drill holes for the fountain, I put the future nozzle on the installed brass tube in the toilet bowl, applied a ruler to the workpiece so that its edge passed through the center of the toilet bowl point and marked a line on the workpiece. If the workpiece is weakly adhered to the brass tube, then the end of the brass tube needs to be flared a little.
First, one hole with a diameter of 1 mm for the fountain is drilled in the workpiece, then after testing, if the jet gets where it is intended, this hole is reamed to 2 mm (determined by experience). To check the correctness of the hole drilling angle, the workpiece is put on a brass tube, voltage is applied to the solenoid valve, and the desired fountain head is set by the valve.
After shaping the nozzle into the desired shape using an emery column, you can proceed with the installation of the bidet system in the toilet.
The detachable design of the nozzle allows you to select optimal angle and the number of holes in it. At the same time, thanks to the rectangular hole in the brass tube, you can drill holes in the nozzle on four sides and turn it 90 ° to choose the washing mode you like.
Installing a bidet in a toilet
To install the proposed design of the bidet in the toilet, it is necessary to dismantle the cistern. The cistern is attached to the toilet seat using two M10 threaded bolts. The bolts with rubber gaskets on them are inserted from the inside of the cistern, pass through the holes in the toilet seat and from below, also through the rubber gaskets, tighten with nuts.
It can be difficult to carry out this work if the bolts are made of steel and are heavily rusted. It is necessary to prepare a set of fasteners for replacement in advance. When I installed the toilet, I immediately replaced the steel bolts with stainless steel studs, and replaced the nuts with caprolon nuts. For 12 years of operation appearance the fasteners did not change, and the nuts unscrewed with ease.
After freeing the cistern from the bolts, you need to remove it from the toilet seat. If the flexible hose allows, then you can put a stool next to the toilet and temporarily place a cistern on it. A picture will open before your eyes, as in the photo below.
White marks on the site, this is the silicone applied when installing the cistern. Be sure to remove them before installing a new rubber pad. The gasket was in excellent condition and could have been left. But a hole was already drilled in the new one, and it had to be installed.
Before installing the gasket, you need to thread drilled hole pipe for the bidet, pass it through the drain hole and the water pipe of the toilet bowl into the bowl, insert the brass pipe into the bidet pipe. Next, fix the resulting structure in the toilet water pipe, as in the experiment.
Just in case, it is advisable to give slack to the bidet tube in the form of a ring located in the toilet drain hole.
When installing the cistern on the toilet bowl gasket, it was found that the seat of the drain hole in the cistern protrudes as a ring with a nut fixing it from the cistern and squeezes the water supply hose in the bidet. I had to make a selection in a plastic ring and nut with a round file in the place where the tube passes.
The cistern is then replaced, bolted, and the water supply through the bidet tube checked. Further, the previously removed fittings are installed in the drain tank and the tank is closed with a lid.
The mechanical part of working with the toilet to equip it with the additional function of a bidet and water supply is over.
Outwardly, the toilet has not changed, only a small snow-white bidet nozzle in the form of a drop appeared in its bowl, a fountain of water from which will always be ready to satisfy your hygienic needs.
In the cold season, the water in the water supply system is cold and can cause discomfort during hygiene procedures. To do this, water can be passed through a buffer tank, in which it will be heated to room temperature.
It is possible not to install the solenoid valve by controlling the water supply by rotating the tap valve. But it is much more convenient to solve this problem remotely, using
The modern industry produces many different types of rubbers that are used in the most unexpected industries. Quite simply and quickly, you can find the necessary rubber gaskets or the necessary rubber blank at the nearest market. However, if you still need to make a rubber product with your own hands, then you will need a couple of simple tips on how to cut the rubber simply and neatly.
How to cut rubber with a knife:
Rubber can be quite varied in its properties, ranging from a very elastic and rather pliable material and ending with elastic durable rubber plates. The use of rubber can be found in a variety of ways, for example, cutting out a suitable sized water pad, a heel for boots, or a non-slip support under a glass surface. Many people cut out all kinds of animals, swings, or make interior items from car tires. You can make flower beds from car tires, but for this you need to know how and with what to cut a car tire.
The secret is very simple, in order to neatly and simply cut a piece of rubber, you need a sharp knife, of course. and ordinary water.
A piece of elastic rubber, a sharp knife and water.
First, you need to outline the cut line (it was enough for me to just align the knife blade).
We begin to cut the rubber with a knife.
Cutting thick rubber with a knife becomes rather difficult as the blade deepens into the thickness. Rubber begins to become viscous, and if you overdo it, the rubber can even melt. Whatever this happens, and the knife went through the rubber like clockwork, it must be moistened with water (and not oil, in no case moistened with oil).
We wet the rubber with water and cut with a knife.
When wet, the rubber becomes slippery, and the knife blade will not get stuck or melt the rubber, thereby you get a smooth and high-quality cut without much effort.
A rubber block cut with water.
How to make a round hole in rubber:
Sometimes there is a need to cut rubber circles, for example, for non-slip legs under a stool, heels, or for spacers between two glasses. In order to cut smooth rubber mugs, you need to choose a metal pipe of a suitable diameter, you also need a piston suitable for the diameter of the tube.
A - metal tube, B - piston
You need to sharpen the edge of the iron tube with a sharpener or file.
Sharpened iron tube
After you sharpen the tube, you need to insert it into the drill chuck, moisten the rubber with water and just start drilling the holes, having previously laid a piece of wood.
We drill round rubber gaskets
With the help of such a simple device and water, you can drill as many smooth, neat rubber rounds as you like (I use them to make non-slip feet for devices). The sharpened tube acts on the principle of a drill, but as the circles are drilled, it is filled with them, and in order to pull them out, a special piston is needed. Then you simply push the rubber rounds out of the sharpened tube.
Squeeze the rubber bands out of the tube with a piston
The main thing is not to forget to wet the rubber with water when drilling or cutting. It should be noted that it is much easier and more convenient to cut a circle using a sharpened tube than in the classical way - using a drill. However, if you need to drill through the rubber with a drill, it is also quite easy to do this by sharply sharpening it first, and periodically dipping the drill into water.
It is necessary to drill rubber at low speed and periodically wetting the cutting edge. However, if you need to drill a large block of rubber at high RPM, you may want to submerge it completely in the water.
Drilling rubber in water with a drill.
In the most extreme case, holes in thin rubber, as in plastic, can be melted by heating a drill shank or an iron tube with a lighter.
Rubber-melted holes
The main thing is to be careful when working with hot metal. Also remember that when overheated rubber can emit toxic substances, therefore, melt holes under the hood or in a well-ventilated area. Observe all safety regulations even when drilling rubber.
How to make a sealing gasket or ring from assembly (construction) silicone
As an experiment, I decided to try to make sealing rings for this mixer spout, since purchased oil seals have recently become more and more disappointing. I thought about replacing the factory oil seals with ordinary rings of a suitable diameter, but something did not work out to find them in the nearest auto parts store. You can, of course, increase the diameter of the seat for the oil seal in the mixer body, so that the factory oil seal sits more tightly in its place and adjoins the spout. But first, I decided to try the rings of my own production, if it doesn't work, then then I already have to do the mixer or spout.
The idea itself was borrowed from the Internet, where a person grinded a form for rings in a piece of plexiglass. I decided to use ordinary paraffin for this, so that in case of an error, refill it and start sharpening again. Since the rings I need are not particularly thick, I decided to pour paraffin into a regular canning lid. We mark the center on it, for this I just stuck it with a magnet on the jaws of the screwdriver. After that, periodically turning on the screwdriver, I centered the position of the cover on the jaws to get rid of strong beats. Then on the rotating lid, with a marker put a ring mark in the middle.
We knock the center in the lid with an awl, and then drill a hole for a suitable screw. Since the tin of the lid is thin, it is better to put washers under the nut and bolt. We tighten it all up.
We clamp the thread of a screw or bolt into a screwdriver and check for possible runout. We do not need special accuracy, since we will sharpen at low speeds. The main thing is that the plane of the cover is strictly perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the screwdriver. For this reason, it is best to use something thicker or place washers under the nut and bolt.
If everything is within the normal range, then put the lid on the fire and melt the paraffin in it. It should be borne in mind that paraffin is significantly precipitated during cooling. Therefore, the thickness of the filling of paraffin must be made almost twice as thick as the silicone ring we need.
After filling the lid with paraffin, leave it to cool.
We clamp the lid into the drill and make a test switch.
Drilling in plastics and rubber.
We do not set high revolutions, since paraffin is easily and quickly processed at low speeds, moreover, there is less chance of making a mistake. If necessary, use a knife or some kind of scraper to level the plane for future marking. If there is beating of the plane, then you will feel them when leveling, since the knife at the beginning of leveling will only remove one side of the plane.
I need to get almost the same ring as the factory one, maybe a little thicker. Therefore, I decided to make a groove of such a size that the factory ring would just plunge into it flush. We put the old ring on paraffin wax, center it, periodically turning on the screwdriver.
Moving it slightly to the side, we put a mark on the paraffin under it.
Then, turning on the screwdriver, we beat off the circle along this mark.
Then we transfer the size of the ring we need to paraffin wax, starting in size from the circle that we beat off earlier.
After we have done all the markings, we turn to turning work.
With a screwdriver or some kind of scraper, we grind the groove to the desired depth, periodically checking its dimensions.
Five to ten minutes of work and the groove is ready. What is good about paraffin is that it is easily processed, you can almost sharpen it with a fingernail. But this and its minus, you need to do everything very carefully, since you can easily screw everything up with one awkward movement.
We take out the mold from the drill, and then carefully fill the groove with silicone, trying to smooth the silicone flush with the paraffin. All this is best done with a piece of flat plastic or cardboard, but relatively soft, so as not to damage the paraffin form. When filling with silicone, we try to avoid the formation of air bubbles.
We dry for a week, after which we remove the ring.
From acidic silicone, some slippery substance remains on the form. Which is easily washed off in lukewarm running water and soap. You don't even need to touch the mold, just pour soapy water from your hand onto the mold until this fat ceases to shine on paraffin.
Then fill the mold with silicone again and dry it.
We cut off the excess film and the gaskets are ready.
In general, now these rings are waiting for their turn to be installed in the mixer, since the factory ones (which were recently installed) have not yet worn out. In addition, there is time to see what will happen to them in a couple of months, since some silicones tend to dry out in size. I thought that the paraffin dissolves little with anything, but still noticed that it turns slightly white from contact with silicone, perhaps some kind of reaction is taking place. But this did not seem to affect the shape of the rings, the second ring was the same as the first, nothing corroded and did not dissolve. It seems like there are neutral silicones, with them paraffin most likely will not be anything at all. But if you need a lot of gaskets, then it is probably better to grind the shape in some kind of plastic (plexiglass, etc.), then this shape will be more durable and strong.
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How to drill (cut) a hole on Ф32 in a 40mm rubber sheet
choopokapra 30-09-2014 09:01
Good day, actually the question is in the title of the topic. I have a piece of 40mm rubber just for the F200 circle, so I'm thinking how and how to make a hole in it, I will be very grateful for the advice. Thanks in advance!
BOLT2000 30-09-2014 09:21
notching.
Anton42 30-09-2014 09:22
Will he not vomit?
iMHO it is necessary at high speeds starting with a smaller diameter, again HZ can melt. I will listen to smart people!
comrade Beria 30-09-2014 09:34
A familiar turner once mentioned the method of freezing rubber blanks. That is, he froze, and while she, hardened, did not move away, with a chisel, with a chisel In this case, a crown.
kukobara 30-09-2014 09:36
Chemists have tubular drills for rubber to make laboratory plugs. It is a thin-walled tube with a sharpened edge. The holes are not cut, but drilled by hand. This tube is easy to make yourself. The difference from the notch is that the hole is cylindrical, not conical.
sergVs 30-09-2014 09:40
The cut is definitely gut. If you find or have where to do it. If not, a circular cutter should help. Although 40mm thickness will have to work hard. Crowns are also an option, but the result strongly depends on the type of rubber (hard is most likely normal, soft - xs) and the edges will not be smooth. We must try and possibly pick up the speed. May not fit. There is an option to cut it with a hand cutter, but the shape will most likely be far from ideal and will take some time (but you will save on finding and buying special tools). Nothing else comes to mind yet. Something like this.
Xoma Minsk 30-09-2014 09:41
Crowns can "chew" .. I made punctures with a narrow knife (on both sides), combined them into a "hole" of a much smaller diameter of an arbitrary shape, then on the engraver I made a hole out of the hole with a drum with sandpaper. After that I grinded the outer diameter of the circle, placing it on the engine, the same engraver so as not to beat) Only the circle was F160.
Kromeshnik 30-09-2014 09:50
In 40 mm of rubber, notching at a time will be difficult, repeated blows can lead the center of the axial. In the Soviet time, in such a ballerina, I made cutters from fur cloth and drilled holes. Cleanly, even in rubber with a non-metal cord, only you need to try to adjust the diameter.
Yours faithfully
alex-wolff 30-09-2014 10:01 Quote: Originally written by CTT:
http://www.bigturtle.ru/koronki-po-derevu-11.html
I think this should work out
this is a simple solution and the correct answer.
ballerina (as in the picture from the previous post) does not help, the rubber will clamp the cutters, this is only for wood, plastic and drywall.
a crown for metal, the very thing, with this thickness. Wolf5862007 30-09-2014 10: 02Quote: At the same time, in such a ballerina
+ 1. You can still use a feather drill at high speeds, unless the rubber is solid. max12312 30-09-2014 10:18
grease the tools with lard. if you cut it manually, take care of your hands, the cutter flies where it was not pushed through.
Veger 30-09-2014 10:45
drill a thin hole, thread a file from a jigsaw and, with control of both sides of the sheet, slowly cut out. But, probably, the file will wedge. With butter?
sergVs 30-09-2014 10:58 Quote: Originally posted by Veger:
thread the file from the jigsaw and, with control of both sides of the sheet, slowly cut
But this interesting option... Not fast, but it should work. I would try. Laundry soap is often used as a lubricant when cutting rubber. That is, before sawing, rub the file with a bar of soap and repeat in the process. Something like this. Kromeshnik 30-09-2014 11: 13 Quote: ballerina (as in the picture from the previous post), will not help, the rubber will clamp the incisors
He described it from personal experience, tried to make type-setting rollers from sheet rubber, from conveyor belts, etc., the crowns do not give even edges, then it is necessary to additionally process, the height of the crowns is limited. Again, I have not met 200 crowns. An electric jigsaw, even with oil or solarium (as I was advised), is only suitable for cutting out workpieces because of the not very high cutting accuracy. "a cutter is a blank, it is possible in a lathe not with a cutter but, say, with coarse sandpaper (exactly but for a long time).
I made cutters for the ballerina with a rhombus (you can experiment of course) lubrication is needed, in the machine (no need for a drill)
Something like this.
Yours faithfully alex-wolff 30-09-2014 11:45
Although this will not get rid of the balancing problem ... ... as I understand it, the task is to adapt the wheel to an endless belt. So? the problem of balancing in this case can be solved in only one way, to reduce the speed of the sharpener ... ..and so, you will get tired of balancing a piece of rubber, and a heavy circle will turn out, which will create even greater and dangerous preconditions. it's better if you really want such a wheel, carve a lightweight one out of luminescence and rubberize it ... ... something like that.
Xoma Minsk 30-09-2014 13:02
For a long time, I made a rubber wheel with a diameter of either 160 or 180 on a sharpener. I described the technology above. Aligned with the turned on sharpener using an engraver. At 1500 rpm. I did not find vibrations and beats. And then everyone's business is to think or try) Rubber is not the most difficult material to process, and business for a couple of hours. If you don't like it, you can always throw it away) Or you can continue to think about "beats, not beats."
Semyon Mikhalych 30-09-2014 14:00
I also have such a circle.
But the hole was made not on the bushing on the sharpener, but on the shaft itself, diameter 16.
The hole can be made on a lathe, or on a boring tubular drill, lubricated with water during operation.
By the way, this work will take less time than we spent here on posts.))
Nix 30-09-2014 14:38
Drill bit
Centering on small files.
serega91 30-09-2014 17:26
Cut it out with a sharpened piece of pipe required diameter, aerosol silicone grease and a 10t press.
Dmitry-471 30-09-2014 17:52
I cut out holes up to 80mm in diameter on a lathe, just 40mm thick. I made it for the tailstock, in the form of a thin-walled pipe sharpened from the inside and with a cutout for removing a drilled rubber chopik. I poured it with ordinary machine oil that was at hand. Holes up to 50mm are smooth. The heating is quite strong, with smoke, the smell of burned rubber. The result was fine with me.
Sincerely, Dmitri.
arkuda 30-09-2014 17:57
25 years ago on lathe sharpened from very dense rubber different bodies rotation (as dies for casting), diameter 150-200mm. The professors gave up, and the old turner Uncle Vanya made a thin cutting tool and with the help of SOVIET Laundry SOAP worked wonders
Dmitry-471 30-09-2014 17:58
I cut out holes up to 80 mm in diameter on a lathe, and just 40 mm thick. I did it for the tailstock, in the form of a thin-walled pipe sharpened from the inside and with a cutout for removing the drilled rubber chopik. Watered with ordinary machine oil that was at hand. Holes up to 50 mm are straight. The heating is quite strong, with smoke, the smell of burned rubber. The result was fine with me.
Sincerely, Dmitri.
vityuxa 30-09-2014 18:57
Still a ballerina! at the factory "vacuum workers" cut thicker sheets, and not pancakes, but rings! Both black and vacuum rubber. The cutter itself is very thin a millimeter - one and a half, like a knife in shape with the width of a file, and constantly emulsion in working area... I don’t remember the revolutions, but rather slowly 300-400, I don’t remember in short. Exactly at least 500X5, as cast. It does not seem to be work to make a ballerina, the principle is the same for everyone. And only on a professional machine, the more….
Gunmen Quote: Originally posted by alex-wolff:
ballerina (as in the picture from the previous post) does not help, the rubber will clamp the incisors
whatever clamps the cutting site is wetted or lubricated.
the vacuum cleaner himself in the past. white was cut into seals.
Rubber stopper
if something is complex in shape, a sheet of rubber was poured with liquid nitrogen and almost processed with a file
turns on vitorezny 100-200. depends on rubber and diameter.
Al.P 01-10-2014 06:52
I cut several times with a diameter of 22mm, a thickness of 30mm with a cheap Chinese pen drill for wood, wetted with water, at "Jet-8", the lowest speed.
choopokapra 01-10-2014 08:22 Quote: Originally written by Dmitry-471:
I cut out holes up to 80mm in diameter on a lathe, just 40mm thick. I did it for the tailstock, in the form of a thin-walled pipe sharpened from the inside and with a cutout for removing a drilled rubber chopik
Sincerely, Dmitri.
ktt 01-10-2014 09: 01Quote: As far as I understood (guessed) from the post of the vehicle, he wants to make a wheel on a sharpener, and so .... okay, a hole, it's another matter how he will balance on this circle? that's where the hemorrhage is, and it's not such a big problem to drill a hole.
You can immediately dissuade that the person would not get hurt? ... .. although my assumptions may not be correct, but how it really looks like ... wheel 200mm, hole 32mm (for the mandrel sleeve) ... ..can be easier on the sharpening shaft? everyone is easier to drill 17-19mm than under the adapter sleeve 32.
Although this will not get rid of the balancing problem ... ... as I understand it, the task is to adapt the wheel to an endless belt. So? the problem of balancing in this case can be solved in only one way, to reduce the speed of the sharpener ... ..and so, you get tired of balancing a piece of rubber, and it will turn out to be a difficult circle, which will create even greater and dangerous preconditions. it's better if you really want such a wheel, carve a lightweight one out of luminescence and rubberize it ... ... something like that.
totally agree with Alexander
Dmitry-471 01-10-2014 16: 58 Quote: Originally written by choopokapra:
How was the rubber fixed in the chuck - in the chuck jaws or on which mandrel?
i have a lathe, but there are no reverse jaws to clamp such a diameter
It was not fastened in the cartridge. made a mandrel, since the rubber was rectangular
Roman_Dyagelev 04-10-2014 21:00
I cut a slightly smaller diameter with a sharpened pipe with a sharpening from the inside. And at the end he welded the "spent" socket head and put the ratchet on 1/2 and pressing it strongly scrolled. Neat and fast. But it is necessary to sharpen well.
TRYP 04-10-2014 22:24
Is there a question about the seat? if yes, then I advise you to reduce the hole diameter and press rubber onto the shaft, or is it a roller from Nikitin's grinder? before drilling the landing, I recommend marking not only the landing but also the outer diameter, it will help with finding the optimal location of the center.
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Cutting rubber or silicone is not a trivial task, because the question immediately arises - what to cut and how. The use of a laser cutter is not always a suitable solution here. We will try to dispel the myth that materials of this kind are difficult to process mechanically.
The properties of silicone known to us - its elasticity, durability, low electrical conductivity - make this material indispensable in the manufacture of various substrates, seals, gaskets, rings, elastic bands, belts for transmission mechanisms and assemblies, etc.
Tubular drills for rubber
But during processing, you can often face a number of problems associated with violation of production techniques, improper storage, overheating. Porosity appears, hardness decreases, strength decreases, and deformation increases.
The efficiency of laser cutting directly depends on the thickness of the cut material and its combustibility. And the thicker the material, the more likely it is to damage the product, disrupting its geometry by thermal exposure, which ultimately spoils the presentation and quality of the product. As a result of the action of the laser beam, a hole with a diameter exceeding the thickness of the cutting line appears on the material. The entry point is shifted to the side, and the burning of the entrance hole in the material goes outside the contour of the product or in its dropping out, non-working part, which leads to additional waste consumable and the rise in the cost of the final product.
Another problem is that cutting rubber with a laser beam can cause carbonization of the end surface. This usually happens with a large thickness - more than 20-25 mm - of the processed material. And if with the help of a laser, for example, rubber insulators are cut, an additional check on the conductivity of the resulting products may be required, since the insulating properties of the charred material significantly deteriorate.
Cutting with CNC plotters
Plotter cutting of rubber is a way to get around such problems, and for several years in our production we have been fulfilling orders for cutting rubber and similar materials in terms of processing: silicone, neoprene, etc. using a CNC plotter. Products processed on a plotter are obtained with a clean, even and neat edge without carbon deposits and soot.
Cutting of silicone or rubber is carried out with knives made of high-alloy steel, which leave a perfectly smooth surface that does not require additional processing, on cutting complexes with a working table size of 1330 × 800 mm and 1800 × 3200 mm. The material is pressed by vacuum, which completely eliminates deformation of any kind. The 60mm beam height allows for cutting thick rubber - up to 50mm thick - or multiple layers, and the processing speed can be faster than a laser. In our work, we use specialized software, with which you can arrange the sketch as efficiently as possible in order to save material and, therefore, reduce the cost per unit of product.
Cutting of sheet rubber or shaped cutting according to a sketch of any complexity is carried out in strict accordance with the layout provided by the customer.
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