Do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router: step by step instructions. Homemade wood milling machine: the components of the device, an approximate manufacturing process Homemade machine from a hand router

In Russia, the large-scale and professional use of wood and woodworking technologies began to be applied under Peter the Great. The first professional woodworking machine was brought by him from Holland. Today, such machines are quite popular.

You don't need to have any special knowledge to make a milling table yourself. In some cases, such tables are much more convenient than factory branded tables used for milling.

Appointment of woodworking machines

Such units for wood have different purposes. They can be used for one operation or for several. Such machines are mainly made at the factory, however, many make them with their own hands.

Most devices are multifunctional, they save space in the workshop. After minor manipulations with the machine bed, it can be easily re-profiled for a variety of operations.

A professional machine is an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen often start making it with their own hands. It is then used most often in small furniture workshops.

No matter how professional woodworking machines are, they are able to combine only a certain amount of processing techniques. This is explained by the fact that in some devices the workpiece is stationary, while in others it carries out rotational-translational movements.

A homemade milling machine is made using a drill. The spindle of an electric drill is fixed to the steel profile, into which the workpiece is clamped. On the opposite side, a reel or rotating clamp is installed. Processing is carried out with special incisors, which should be held with the hands. This method allows the production of simple round-shaped parts.

Application of wood milling machines

Among the variety of milling machines, few are used for woodworking. When making furniture, milling must be used. The wood machine is designed to perform the following operations:

• removing a quarter;
• drilling;
• notching grooves;
• creating depth and recesses of a given shape.

For example, the installation of furniture fittings requires deepening of precise shape and depth... Therefore, milling allows you to achieve the required parameters very easily and quickly, which is very important at production facilities.

The most convenient and therefore quite common is considered surface grinding machine... It is easily made by hand. A homemade device for wood can significantly save finances when organizing a home workshop.

Milling machine design

Such a device for wood carries out the processing of the part with the help of a router that makes rotational movements. The workpiece is either rigidly fixed or fed to the router with the required trajectory.

The milling cutter is cylindrical steel cutting toolvery similar to a drill. However, in contrast to it, the entire body of the router has cutting edges. This makes it possible to remove a tree simultaneously in several planes. You can control the router in automatic, manual and semi-automatic modes.

The milling machine consists of the following parts:

1. Table top.
2. Parallel stop.
3. A vacuum cleaner that is used to remove chips.
4. Stanina.
5. Spindle.
6. Feed slide.

Making a homemade milling machine

The materials that are required for making the unit with your own hands can be found quite easily and they are quite inexpensive. That is why a homemade milling device costs little money. You can use such material as: film faced plywood, chipboard sheet.

The dimensions of the future table depend on how much free space will be in the workshop. Making a machine with your own hands begins with what is taken a sheet of plywood and cut into parts with a circular saw in accordance with the drawing. The table top and bed are considered integral parts, which is why they are made in the first place.

As the main cutting tool of the do-it-yourself milling device, it is used manual frezer... For these purposes, used devices, for which the guide stops are broken for various reasons, are great.

The hand router is fixed strictly perpendicular to the table top. The router sheet is organized using a standard device. Special attachments can also be made to help minimize the time and effort required to change the angle and depth of the unit.

The final stage in the manufacture of a homemade machine is parallel stop device... This device helps to direct the part to the cutting edge at a strictly specified angle.

It is quite simple to make a homemade milling machine, you just need to have minimal skills in order to easily cope with this work. The material for this unit is readily available and fairly cheap. The resulting device is used mainly for small furniture workshops.

DIY milling table drawings

For the convenience of working with the router, the craftsmen install it permanently, and the workpiece is moved. When working in this way, we are no longer talking about a hand router, but a so-called "milling table". In this article we will try to explain how to make a do-it-yourself wood milling machine.

Which milling cutter to choose

There are many types of routers. Before choosing it, you need to think about what you will need it for. More complex workpieces will require a more powerful and resourceful router. Experts recommend choosing a router with manual adjustment and automatic spindle stabilization.

Milling cutters with systems are very convenient smooth start and a quick stop. And if the tool allows you to replace the motor brushes without opening the case, then there will be no price at all for it. This is a really significant plus.

In many operating instructions, milling machine manufacturers advise against using it upside down. Basically, these restrictions are not justified and can be ignored.

Advice: choose a router with a power of at least 2 kilowatts to work confidently with any tree. It should also have speed control, as a rule, there is on all models. As for whether it is worth buying brands such as Bosch or Makita, my opinion is that if you do it professionally and every day it is worth it, if for yourself then an inexpensive Chinese is enough.

DIY milling table video

Milling table bed

An important part of the tool is a special frame (bed). This is a frame on supports, on top of which there is a tabletop. The bed can be made of any material: metal, wood, chipboard, etc.

The main thing is that it is tough and stable. Size too of particular importance does not have. It all depends on what size parts you will be working with.

To ensure comfortable work for the machine operator, the bottom of the bed must be deepened.

Thanks to this, the operator does not cling to the structure with his feet during operation. We advise you to make a bed with adjustable feet that will allow you to work on any uneven floor.

A do-it-yourself wood milling machine is notable for a huge selection of creation options. You can create it completely for yourself.

Table top

Nothing complicated here. One option is a regular kitchen countertop covered with special plastic. The workpiece will glide perfectly on the plastic, and the board will well dampen vibrations.

Mounting plate for table router

A plate with high strength and low thickness. As a rule, it is made of metal or textolite (the latter option is easier to use).

A rectangular plate, in the center of which a hole is made. After that, the router is attached to the mounting plate. In order to secure the tool with the plate to the table, four holes must be drilled at the corners of the plate.

The simplest diy milling table, drawings

So we got to the essence of this article. So how do you assemble a wood milling machine with your own hands? First, a tabletop is temporarily attached to the finished frame (bed). Then a mounting plate is placed on the countertop and its position is marked. Further, using a router, a seat for the plate is selected on the tabletop.

It must be installed perfectly with the top surface of the worktop. Finally, you need to mill the hole in the shape of the router base and put it all together. Of course, you will have to tinker with some points, but the main thing is to follow all the instructions.

Upper clamp

For more comfortable work, the table can be equipped with an upper clamp. A regular ball bearing will do.

It will allow you to firmly fix the workpiece. This will allow you to improve the quality and speed of work, as well as save your nerves and energy.

Safety

It is necessary to focus on the most important thing - safety. First, it is recommended to install a protective shield for the cutter. Secondly, equip the tool with an emergency stop button. The button should be in an easily accessible place for you, but at the same time, not interfere with your work. Thirdly, the working area can be additionally illuminated.

All these points will only add comfort to your work, because you cannot save on safety. Be healthy.

sdelaj-sam.com

Do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router

One of the main assistants of a carpenter's work is a wood router. This hand tool is irreplaceable when you need to:

• cut a groove;
• make a groove;
• make a spike connection;
• process edges, etc.

However, when performing some carpentry work, it is not always convenient to use this tool due to the fact that it is required to simultaneously hold the workpiece and wield a milling cutter. Therefore, many craftsmen go for a trick, making a milling table for a hand router. With the help of a table, which is a reliable addition to a milling tool, it is possible as a result to obtain wooden elements in quality and accuracy that are in no way inferior to carpentry made in professional furniture workshops on milling machines.

A home-made table for a hand router significantly increases the productivity of the tool and makes it easier to work on processing wood products. It is not difficult to manufacture such equipment, moreover, in contrast to the standard milling tablemanufactured by various manufacturers, this table will have the dimensions, designs and options chosen by the craftsman directly.

To carry out any engineering work, and the manufacture of equipment is just such, it is necessary to draw up a sketch of the future machine. On it you need to indicate your vision of the project with an indication of the actual dimensions. Based on the sketch, you can easily select materials for the manufacture of the future structure, their quantity, determine the construction budget and stock up on the tools necessary for processing machine parts.

Option 1. Instructions for making a table for a hand router

Materials for making a milling table

To build a milling table you will need:

• 4 square bars;
• trimming chipboard and plywood, the dimensions of which are determined when building the drawing of the table;
• hardware (nuts, bolts, screws, hinges, etc.);
• jack;
• metallic profile;
• 6mm steel plate;
• aluminum guides;
• movable carriage-stop (guide from the saw);
• manual frezer.

Drawing of a homemade milling table (option 1)

In any case, before starting to make any such table, the drawing must be completed with the designation of all sizes and the determination of the location of the working elements relative to each other.

Step by step assembly

Let's consider in detail each step in the manufacture and fastening of each element of a homemade milling table.

1st step. To make a stationary base for the table, you will need bars and chipboard trimmings, from which we twist the support legs, additionally strengthen the rigidity using horizontal plywood connecting panels. In the right side part we cut a hole for the start button, which will be connected to the hand router.

2nd step. The table top is made of chipboard. We make it lifting together with a router, for which we install hinges and make an additional base-support from 15-mm plywood.

3rd step. To move the workpiece evenly along the table, for example, to cut a groove in it, a moving stop carriage is used. In the tabletop, cut out a groove for the guides of the movable stop and install a metal profile in it. You can use a guide from an old saw as a stop carriage.

4th step. The longitudinal stop is also made of chipboard and we make it movable to adjust the gaps around the cutter. To ensure mobility, we cut out perpendicular grooves in the upper part of the stop and attach the stop to the table top with clamps. In the middle, we cut a small groove for sucking out chips and other milling waste.

5th step. From thin plywood we make a box with a hole for connecting a vacuum cleaner hose, which will remove dust and chips formed during the milling process. We fix the box behind the perpendicular stop.

6th step. Take a 6mm steel plate and screw it to the table top flush with the surface. In the process of fastening, we make sure that its edges do not protrude above the tabletop, otherwise the processed parts will cling to them. A manual router will be attached to the plate from below.

7th step. We attach the router by the aluminum sole to the bottom of the plate using bolts, but do not forget to pre-drill holes for the bolts in the sole. Attaching the hand tool to the removable plate rather than directly to the table saves milling depth and allows for easy bit replacement.

8th step. We build a router elevator. For this we use a car jack, which allows you to change the height of the cutter with maximum accuracy.

9th step. We remove the handles from the router and instead of them we fasten the aluminum guides, which we connect to the jack mechanism.

The design and video of a homemade milling table for a manual router

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a milling table, it is necessary to accurately determine its design features. This article provides instructions for making a simple milling table. For other first build options, see the video below for details.

We check the reliability of fastening of all elements - and the do-it-yourself milling table is ready!

We offer several more models of hand-made wood milling machines for your taste.

Option 2. Another milling table and other assembly features

We offer a table design for a router with a detailed analysis of its nodes.

Materials and tools.

In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need materials:

• metal corner or pipe (for the frame);
• aluminum guide;
• axles for mounting the router;
• putty, primer and paint for metal;
• self-tapping screws; furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm;
• adjusting hex bolts with nuts - 4 pcs. ;
• finnish moisture resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (you can take another material);
• boards or plywood trimmings (for the manufacture of a parallel stop).

The following tools are also required:

• welding machine (for the metal frame of the table);
• drill and drill;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• milling cutter;
• spatula, brushes, rags.

Basic Drawings

Part sizes

Design features of the milling table

An existing workbench can be adapted for the milling machine. But it is more expedient, in order to exclude the influence of strong vibration during the operation of the cutter, to make a separate structure that ensures the stability of the table.

The main loads during the operation of the equipment are transferred to the base. Therefore, the bed must be reliable and stable. The bed is understood as a fixed base on which the router is located. It takes all loads and is a table-like structure with a fixed lid. It can be made from a metal pipe, corner, channel, wood, chipboard.

It must be taken into account that the router itself is attached to the table top from below, which means that it is required to provide empty space there.

The router is attached to the table through a high strength and rigid plate to perform installation works... It is preferable to make it from metal, PCB or tongue-and-groove boards.

On the base of the router there are threaded mounting holes for fastening. In the absence of threaded holes, cutting is performed independently. If the task is not feasible, fix the milling device using special clamps.

Start the work by making a cutout according to the shape and thickness of the mounting plate. For simplicity, straight corners on the mounting plate must be rounded off with a file. A recess in the table top ensures that the plate is flush with the table top.

In the center of the plate, make a hole for the tool to exit, drill holes for attaching the plate to the table. The next step is to drill holes for attaching the milling device, keep in mind that the fasteners must be sweaty.

How to make a work surface and base

Making the base of the future milling table begins with the frame. For the convenience of performing work, the table cover should protrude in the front part by 100-200 mm. When designing the bed frame, pay special attention to the installation height of the working surface. This size is crucial for the convenience of working at the machine. According to ergonomic requirements, it should be 850-900 mm, depending on the height of the person. For convenient operation of the future milling machine, you can install height adjusters at the bottom of the support. This will allow, if necessary, to change the size of the height of the table, in case of unevenness in the floor, it will help to set the tabletop in level.

A Soviet-era kitchen countertop will be useful as a working surface for the future machine. Most often it is made from a 36 mm chipboard sheet covered with plastic. The wood-based material will reduce the vibration that occurs during the milling process, and the plastic coating will provide excellent movement on the surface of the workpiece. In the absence of an old countertop, use MDF or chipboard boards with a thickness of at least 16 mm.

Choose a place for the future milling machine in your workshop, the dimensions and type of future design depend on this. It can be an aggregate machine located on the side of the circular saw, a tabletop version, or it can be free-standing stationary machine.

If the use of a milling machine is not regular, it comes down to one-time work from time to time, it is enough to make a small compact table.

https://o-builder.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Universal-milling-table.-Router-table..mp4

You can make a milling machine yourself. It is a structure that fits on a standard table. For work you will need chipboard plate, two boards. Fasten two boards in parallel on a chipboard sheet. Attach one of them to the tabletop with bolts, it will serve as a guide and as a stop. Use the second as a limit stop. Cut an opening in the table top to accommodate the router. Attach the router to the table top with clamps. The compact milling machine is ready.

If your workshop has a lot of free space, then make a full-fledged stationary milling machine. It will be more convenient to work on it than on the desktop version

Option 3. Cheap homemade router table

The sketch is ready. Materials purchased. The instrument, laid out in its place in the workshop, is waiting for the moment to serve its master. The master is also serious and not going to grab onto everything at once. He will put everything on the shelves and do everything in stages.

Start by making the frame of the future machine. You can apply the following method of making the bed. Profile pipe 25 × 25 using a "grinder" cut to size, then weld the workpieces intended for the frame on which the working surface will be located. Weld on one side the pipe along which the rip fence will subsequently move. Weld 4 supports to the frame.

To fix the table top, frame the frame perimeter with a corner, then it will sit in the recess.

Use the second method for making the frame. It implies additional supports for the work surface. In the middle of the table, weld the stops for the milling equipment. The size between them should correspond to the convenient mounting of the router.

For the stability of the structure, connect the lower supports with jumpers at a height of 200 mm from the floor.

Color the resulting structure. Why prepare surfaces: clean metal pipes and degrease with solvent, then prime. If there is a need to putty the surfaces, apply a special putty mixture and apply a primer. After complete drying, paint with PF-115 enamel.

Cut the work surface according to the inner size of the frame, set it tightly in the corners. Then drill holes in the upper frame for fastening the table top. Mark the tabletop itself, drill and securely connect to the bed using furniture bolts. Table dimensions 850 × 600 × 900.

Step back from the edge 200-250 mm and cut the T-shaped guide along the length of the working surface.

Cut off half of the milling axes. This will make it possible to almost double the distance from the sole to the guide axis, which in turn will expand the range of capabilities of the tool.

Remove the sole from the milling equipment, mark the holes for its fastening in the middle of the working surface of the table and drill them. Drill a hole in the middle of the table top for the device. On both sides of it, drill holes for attaching the clamps of the router axes.

On the underside of the tabletop, make a groove for the sole of the router.

Make grooves on both sides of the drilled hole in the cut to accommodate the router axes. The size of the groove and the axis must match.

Along the edges of the grooves with a Faustner drill (picture above), drill holes for the adjusting bolts for the hexagon.

Cut two pieces of pipe to fit the width of the large slot and drill through the center of the holes for the fixed bolts. They will serve as clamps for the milling tool axes. Screw the nuts onto the bolts.

Install hex bolts and nuts on both sides of the axles to adjust the plane of the milling equipment.

Now make a rip fence. Take a small piece of plywood and cut a groove in it so that it can move along the pipe previously welded for this. Using a jigsaw, cut three strips of identical size, where its length is equal to the sum of the table length and the width of the guide tube, and four plates for them in the form of stiffeners.

On lane 1, make a semicircular hole to remove wood waste. It should match the slot in the table top. In strip # 2, cut a square hole in the same location.

Saw strip number 3 of plywood into equal parts. Attach one to the back of the square-hole strip with bolts or rails. The plywood halves should slide in opposite directions. Along the top edge of this strip, install an aluminum guide.

Fasten plates # 1 and # 2 together with the half-hole sides. Fasten two stiffeners along the edge of the hole and two on the sides at a distance of 70-100 mm from the edge.

Cut a square of plywood to the size of the distance between the ribs, cut a hole in it to match the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. Attach the square to the stiffeners.

Secure the rip fence with clamps. This is done for the mobility of rearrangement. If it is only intended for a milling machine, then fix it with brackets with slots for movement.

Weld a bolt to the 6mm thick metal strip. The clamps are made of wood with two grooves for bolts in the amount of two pieces.

Install the milling equipment: thread the cut axles into the side holes of the device, put nuts on them and fix the device with pipe clamps.

Turn the table over and use the hex key to raise the router.

For the convenience of lifting the router, it is advisable to install a lift based on a jack.

Option 4. Milling machine based on writing table

A milling machine based on a writing table is considered an economical and convenient solution. In the list of photo drawings, a table is presented with a specification of parts by size and recommended material.

Parts sizes and materials

How to make a mounting plate

Due to the thickness of the table top, to maximize the output of the cutting tool, the thickness of the mounting plate must be reduced. From this it follows that with a small thickness, it must have sufficient strength.

The plate can be metal or textolite. It is these materials that best meet the requirements for strength and rigidity. The optimum plate thickness should be 6 mm. It is made of rectangular shape, in the middle of the part, a hole is drilled in diameter corresponding to the hole on the base of the router. To increase the range of use of the tool, rings of different diameters are used. Holes are made in the plate for connecting to the router and attaching it to the table top.

The holes in the plate must match in size and position with the holes in the router base. For accurate marking of the plate, you need to draw a sketch with dimensions or fix it to the table with clamps.

The nuances of assembling a milling table with your own hands

When assembling the milling device, fasten a metal ruler at the ends of the table cover width, this will make it possible to set the parallel stop correctly in size and strictly parallel.

On the reverse side of the table top, make selections for the subsequent installation of the dust collector casing, additional equipment. The above drawings and photos will help you make all the components correctly.

For the convenience of turning on and safely shutting down the do-it-yourself milling machine, install a start button and a stop button in the form of a mushroom on the tabletop.

Option 5. Small desktop milling table

A small desktop milling table and a detailed analysis of its manufacture are shown in the photo.

How to make the top clamp

For processing parts large sizes and creating safe working conditions on the machine, the so-called upper clamp is used. Its production is based on the use of a roller. Before the device of this device, develop its drawing.

The roller can be a ball bearing. Its installation is carried out on a special device that makes it possible to fix the workpiece at any distance from the working surface.

Milling machine drive power

It is most advisable to use an electric motor with a power of 1.1-2 kW and a speed of 3000 rpm as a drive for a milling machine. When using a low-power electric motor, it will not be possible to use any cutter, the machine will not have enough power. If the number of revolutions is too low, a poor-quality cut will be obtained.

You have familiarized yourself with several options for solving the issue; how to get a milling table. Which one you like is your choice. We will be glad if we were able to help you

o-builder.ru

How to make a milling table with your own hands

Compared to hand tools, a do-it-yourself milling table allows you to get a more accurate degree of material processing. Rigidly mounted router, confidently cuts various types of wood, plastics, coated chipboards. On it, you can not only chamfer, but make a groove, slot, slot, spike, groove, curly profile selection.

Homemade milling table

How to choose a practical option

there is different ways make a homemade milling table, but the design principles for most models are the same.

First, choose one of 3 types of milling equipment, which determines the dimensions and location of this equipment in the carpentry workshop:

• Hinged. A separate aggregate unit, which is attached to the saw machine from the side with clamps. Allows you to use the work surface of other equipment, can be easily removed, removed with your own hands to the side in case of uselessness.
• Portable. Tabletop modification, which is sought to be done with the minimum required dimensions of the bed and milling table. An efficient machine to use with frequent moves to construction sites.
• Stationary. The main type of table for established production, provided there is sufficient space in the room. This is no longer just a milling cutter, but an equipped workplace.

You need to develop a drawing of the future table with your own hands, already knowing the installation dimensions, the mass of the milling part (with the engine). The section, the location of the load-bearing elements must combine strength and free access for installation, maintenance.

DIY materials

The working plane of the table ensures smooth sliding of the workpiece in one plane. Sheets of chipboard, MDF do this task well. So that there is no deflection of the tabletop under the weight of the router, take a slab with a section of 2.6 / 3.6 cm.A chipboard sheet with a thickness of 1.6 cm or more is enough for the side parts

The mounting plate on which the massive router is attached, by definition, has high strength and rigidity. Of sheet materials, metal, textolite, hardwood plywood are suitable for it. The plate thickness does not exceed 0.8 cm.

The supporting support of the table is made with their own hands from a metal profile, sheet chipboard. Sometimes, these are just legs with stiffeners, in other cases the table includes front-mounted boxes for tools, small equipment, and auxiliary devices.

The main part - the milling cutter - is purchased for industrial production.

The power of the electric motor for woodworking starts at 500 W. Fully milling hardwood requires more than 1 kW (up to 2 kW) power. Voltage 230/380 V. In most models there is a speed control.

Additional devices

Creative use of additional equipment in the design of a home-made milling table can significantly expand its functionality. Achieve a smooth adjustment of the height of the cutting part above the plate if you make an elevator for the working body with your own hands. For this purpose, the vertical axis of the assembly rests on a screw with a fine rectangular thread passing through a fixed nut. By rotating the handwheel on the rod, the cutter feed is controlled. The mechanism is equipped with side stops against bending, a lock nut for holding in a given position during vibration. If possible, they put more complex lifts - a car jack, a tailstock from lathe.

Another addition is a steel ruler along the longitudinal axis of the workpiece guides. Practical, convenient, allows you to control the sample size, free your hands for other operations.

Tool

To make all the details of the milling table with your own hands you will need:

• hacksaw, electric jigsaw;
• emery, sander;
• electric plane;
• drill;
• chisel;
• screwdriver, screwdriver.

Using electro - mechanical tool speeds up work on the manufacture of tabletops, guides, oblique stops, but, if necessary, operations can be done by hand and hand tools.

A necessary quality that a table for a do-it-yourself hand router must have is vibration resistance. Using used workbenches does not always solve this problem.

Milling table device

Stanina

The legs on the side where the carpenter is located are located slightly further from the edge of the table (0.1-0.2 m) for stable placement of the legs. The control panel is also placed here.

The height above the floor is set with adjustable supports in the range of 0.85 - 0.9 m.

The size of the vertical working plane will largely determine the size of the proposed raw material. On average, it is enough to make 1.5 × 0.5 m. Based on this, the distance between the supporting points of the bed is set.

Attachment of the working body

The milling cutter is brought to the table top from below, a mounting plate is applied on top, and they are pulled together with 4 screws with caps for the sweep. The top plane of the table must be free of protrusions and depressions. To do this, the plate must lie in a pre-cut recess, which must be made exactly along its outer contour. Drill 4 through holes for the bolts. Additional fastening to the tree is provided with self-tapping screws.

The shape of the plate is transferred from the soleplate of the router. The interior is cut out in a square frame with sufficient margins to accommodate the holes for the fastening bolts.

A round hole must be made in the board of the table, large enough for the cutter to pass. Too wide an opening is closed with additional rings - inserts to prevent material scuffing during milling.

Work area equipment

To maintain the accuracy of milling, the direction of feed of the workpiece, the following devices are intended on the milling table:

1. Guides. They are located along the lumber supply line to stop the board at the set size of the milling knife overhang. They can be made from the same chipboard as the body. 3 strips are cut along the length of the table. In 2 of them, an opening is cut out for the cutter: the first is semicircular (the board will lie horizontally), the second is rectangular in its height (it will become vertical). The guides are placed at right angles and fastened with 4 oblique stops. In the horizontal, slots are made for bolts to adjust the cutter output. The third plank is cut in half and placed on the front of the corner. It extends to maintain a minimum gap between the rotating knives and the fixed stop. It is fixed with self-tapping screws, a cover plate in the upper part.
2. Clamps. It can be done in the form wooden comb (maple plate with even cuts 2 × 50 mm with a pitch of 5 mm along the grain) or a ball bearing of the desired weight and size.

• Cap. On the back side of the guides, the rotating head must be closed for safety reasons.

An additional option can be a nozzle for connecting a vacuum cleaner, wound under the cutter cover.

Finishing touch

After assembly, all parts are sanded, the working surfaces are polished. The sides and bottom are painted, opened with varnish. Electrical part closed with a metal hose.

stankiexpert.ru

DIY milling machine. Making a milling machine at home

A milling machine for wood or metal in a personal workshop makes the life of a home craftsman a lot easier. True, not everyone can afford it. And if you make it yourself? It might well be worth wanting. And in this article we will tell you how to do it.

What is a homemade milling machine for?

Most often you need a milling machine for woodworking when you need:

• cut out some kind of curved surface or workpiece of irregular shape;
• choose grooves, folds, splines, etc.;
• perform cross planing.

Milling machine device

The main elements of a milling machine are:

• bed;
• drive unit;
• table;
• cutting tool.

How to make a milling machine that both works flawlessly and is inexpensive? Next, we will consider everything in stages. The technical characteristics of the milling machine depend on the following parameters:

• table dimensions;
• the maximum weight and dimensions of the part that can be processed on it;
• drive power;
• number of revolutions.

We make a table

There are many schemes of milling machines, but we will consider the design of the table for the machine, a sketch of which is shown below.

What is needed to make it

To make a do-it-yourself milling machine table you will need:

1. Plywood, plexiglass, steel or duralumin sheet, textolite, MDF, chipboard, in general, which is more affordable for you. This material will be used to make the table.
2. Contact glue.
3. Double-sided tape.
4. Fine-grained sandpaper.
5. Electric jigsaw.
6. Router with copy cutter with top bearing.
7. Clamps.
8. Jointer.
9. Hardware.
10. Plexiglas 6 mm for the visor.
11. Board 20 mm thick.
12. Aluminum, polycarbonate or phenolic plastic for making the mounting plate.
13. Aluminum profile with a T-slot.
14. Equipment needed cutting machine or a circular saw.

Cover making

Let's start with the lid. We use 19 mm plywood as the material. The dimensions of the cover are as follows:

• width - 0.5 m;
• length - 0.6 m.

To improve the characteristics of the milling machine, we will increase the strength of the table, we will make a facing of textolite with a thickness of 2 mm. To do this, cut out a sheet of the same dimensions as the first plywood.

Important: when cutting out the lid and cladding, be sure to add 2.5 cm allowances to the indicated dimensions.

1. Apply a layer of glue to the back of the PCB and the top of the plywood.
2. We retreat from the edge of the plywood sheet 0.3 cm and glue the textolite, walking over it with a rubber roller.
3. We install the workpiece on a cutting machine or a circular saw so that the edge of the plywood sheet is pressed against the stop. We step back from the 6 mm stop and saw off the plywood and the PCB cladding at the same time. Turn the workpiece over and repeat the same from the opposite edge.
4. We push the processed edges to the stop and cut the slab to the required size.
5. We cut out longitudinal and side plates from plywood with dimensions:

• for longitudinal - width 0.4 cm, length 70 cm;
• for the side - the width is the same, and the length is 60 cm.

1. Now we will make an auxiliary part in order to glue the edge strips evenly:

• take 4 pieces of plywood 10x10 cm in size;
• cut out 5x5 cm grooves in each;
• we fix them with clamps at the corners of the lid;
• we attach the pads with glue to the edges of the table top and fix with clamps, placing something from wooden waste under the bottom.

7. Press our pads against the installed accessory and glue them to the edges of the cover. Through the grooves made earlier, we can see if the overlays docked correctly at the corners.

8. We install a 19 mm thick disk cutter on the cutting machine, and attach a wooden plate 25 cm high to the stop.

9. Adjust the cutter and stop so that you can select the grooves in the edge strips. The settings need to be accurate, so first we check them on unnecessary scraps.

10. Press the cover against the stop, with the side covered with textolite, and select the grooves in the side edge strips. They are needed in order to install the aluminum profile.

11. We take any scrap and cut out a tongue in it with the same disk cutter. Check how the corner stop slider moves in it. If it moves normally with minimal backlash, then we cut out the same groove in the lid, placing it with plywood upwards.

Important: chips may appear at the end of the milling cutter's path, so place some support under the table top.

Preparing a place for the mounting plate

To install the router mounting plate, you need to make a cutout in the table. All this is done in the following sequence:

1. Cut a square with a side of 29.8 cm from aluminum or other material. This is a mounting plate.
2. Draw a line on the lid, stepping back from the front edge 12.5 cm, then divide it in half.
3. Place the mounting plate on the table so that the intersection point of the square diagonals coincides with the middle of the drawn line. We outline the plate along the contour.
4. We remove the plate and step back from the edges of the contour by 1.2 cm, draw the outlines of the cutout:

5. Drill a hole for the jigsaw to pass and cut out the cutout.

6. Place the plate in the contour and fix it with 2-sided tape.

7. Along the contour of the plate, first place the cardboard spacers, and then the technological strips and fix them with clamps.

8. Remove the gaskets and mounting plate. We take a milling cutter, and resting its sole on the technological strips, we set the tool to a milling depth of the table top of 0.3 cm.

9. We control the milling cutter bearing so that it passes along the edges of the technological strips. At the same time, we make shallow passes with a gradual increase in the cutter overhang. We finish the work when the sampling depth becomes 0.5 mm more than the plate thickness.

To complete the manufacture of a do-it-yourself milling machine table, we perform the following operations:

• we grind the longitudinal and lateral edge strips using sandpaper;
• we blunt the edges of the plastic around the groove for the mounting plate.

We make the base

To make the base of a homemade milling machine, we use the same 1.9 cm thick plywood as for the table top:

1. Cut out 2 legs 52 cm high and 29 cm wide.
2. We prepare 4 ties, the width of which is 8 cm and the length is 52 cm.
3. We make the edges of the ties and legs with 12-degree bevels.
4. To fasten the power cord, we cut out a bar with dimensions 19x50x42 mm for it.
5. We glue the ties and legs to each other and fix the structure using clamps.
6. We drill holes for the ties. Then we insert the screws into them, and remove the clamps.
7. We glue the strap to the tie for attaching the cord. We fix it with clamps.
8. Grind the legs with fine emery.
9. We turn the lid over and put it on the workbench, attach it to it with glue, assembled structure... We carry out fixation with clamps.
10. In the screed, we make holes that penetrate further into the cover, for screws with a diameter of 4.5 mm, a length of 3.2 cm with a countersunk head.
11. We screw in the screws and remove the clamps.

This diagram of a milling machine shows a rip fence and a pressure comb.

We start making the stop:

1. We cut out a wall measuring 1.9x15x66 cm.
2. We make the base. Dimensions - 1.9x8x66 cm.
3. We cut out 2 kerchiefs of the dust extraction pipe. Dimensions - 1.9x6.5x8 cm.
4. We cut out 2 end plates with dimensions of 1.9x12x19 cm.
5. We work with a jointer one edge on each workpiece.
6. We saw off the raw edges on a cutting machine or circular, setting the longitudinal stop at a distance equal to the finishing width of the part + 1 mm, and then we perform their jointing.
7. We measure the finished cover, add another 0.1 cm. We file the stop and its base, matching its length with the size of the cover.
8. In the middle of the stop and the base, we cut out the grooves of 3.8x3.8 cm with a jigsaw.
9. We glue these 2 parts together and clamp them with clamps.
10. We cut out 2 blanks, from which we will subsequently make end plates. Their dimensions are 1.9x12x19 cm. We glue them with adhesive tape.
11. We draw a diagonal on the upper workpiece, which is the cutting line. We retreat from the bottom of the plate 1.6 cm, and from the left edge 4.5 cm and draw straight lines, their intersection will be the center of a hole with a diameter of 0.6 cm.
12. We cut out the details. We grind the edges, drill a hole, separate the parts.
13. We attach the finished plates to the stop with glue, fix with clamps and make guide holes, screw in the screws.
14. We cut a groove with a disc cutter. Its width is equal to the width of the aluminum profile.
15. We carry out the final grinding of the finished stop.

The turn came up to make a shield:

1. First, we cut out a holder in the form of a square 12.7x12.7 cm from plywood. Round the upper corners, R \u003d 1.2 cm.
2. We make slotted holes using an electric jigsaw.
3. We take sandpaper and grind the part well.
4. We cut out the plexiglass shield. We make the same roundings on the upper corners as on the holder.
5. We connect the shield and the holder with tape, then we drill the holes for installation.

It remains to make a clamp-comb and locking elements:

1. We make 2 blanks for the pressure comb measuring 1.9x5.1x46 cm from the board.
2. We make 30-degree bevels at the ends of the workpiece on a cutting machine.
3. We retreat 6.7 cm from the ends with bevels and draw transverse oblique lines. We mark the radii at the upper ends.
4. We make a cut to the marked line by placing the workpiece on the cutting machine and pressing it against the stop with a longer edge. In this case, the 3 mm disc rises 5 cm above the machine table.
5. Expand the part 180 degrees and do the same from the other end.
6. We shift the emphasis by 0.5 cm from the original position and repeat the actions at regular intervals. As soon as the stop moves to the 4.5 cm mark, the milling disc must be lowered to 2.5 cm and the edge of the workpiece must be sawed to a width corresponding to the drawing.
7. We retreat 2.3 cm from the rounded edge of the clamp. At this point, in the center of the ridge, we make 1 hole with a diameter of 7 mm, set aside 2.2 cm from its center and make another one, retreat 5.1 cm and drill a third hole.
8. We connect the last 2 holes with parallel straight lines, take a jigsaw and cut out a slotted hole.
9. We process everything with emery.

We manufacture locking blocks using the following technology:

• we cut out 2 blanks from a board measuring 1.9x4.5x7.6 cm;
• drill in the center of the hole ø 0.7 cm;
• we grind the parts and join them tightly with the long edges of the combs.

Final work on the device of the milling machine

1. We coat all the wooden parts of the homemade milling machine with oil impregnation.
2. Cut off the aluminum profile with a hacksaw, focusing on the length of the table and stop. We attach one section of the profile to the table, the other to the stop.
3. We install the switch.
4. We attach a protective shield to the holder. Then this unit, as well as the combs, together with the locking blocks, are installed on the stop.
5. The complete parallel stop is mounted on the table.
6. On the back side of the stop to the kerchiefs, we mount the dust extraction pipe.
7. Insert the mounting plate into the recess on the cover.

Milling machine drive

The choice of a motor for inclusion in the circuit of a milling machine depends on what you are going to perform on it:

• to get simple workpieces with small samples, a 500-watt motor is enough;
• for more complex work, it is necessary to choose an engine from 1.1 kW. Any cutter is suitable for such a drive;
• do-it-yourself milling machines install stationary electric motors or use as a drive hand power tools high power;
• at a higher number of revolutions, the cut is better.

Watch the video about the homemade milling machine:

DIY milling machine

• 4.00 / 5 5
• 1 / 5
• 2 / 5
• 3 / 5
• 4 / 5
• 5 / 5

Professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible with a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This setup is rare, and the commercially available options are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The ease of use of a router located in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves over the work surface, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives wider possibilities for processing parts. As a result, product blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on the appearance and size. Consideration should be given to the possibility of modernizing the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable to use. The presence of boxes will create additional comfort in work

Compact DIY design will replace industrial machine

There are three main types of milling tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, as a rule, bulky and non-portable.
2. Portable - it has compact dimensions and relatively low weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the saw table surface.

Construction diagram

For self-made countertops, they usually use MDF boards, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to handle and use

Some craftsmen believe that the metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will make an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is susceptible to corrosion, so it must be painted.

The milling table covers must be smooth. They are often made from plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials are affordable.

In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the produced models of countertops are made of MDF plates or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this is not always the case.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is screwed to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the worktop surface. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other means to level the plate. It is better to choose an insert with replaceable rings. This is necessary in order to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the cutter diameter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the milling table working surface.

Create convenience when selecting the cutter diameter

When performing milling operations, a rip fence is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. For work to be done accurately, it must be flat along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface, and easily reconfigured for different processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a branch pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixable pads

The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. You can read more about making this structure yourself.

Required tools and materials

1. Joiner's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood sheet
5. Electric jigsaw.
6. Spanners.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two pedestals. Most in a simple way creating a table top, supporting part and parts for a milling table will be using MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, there will be less resistance during operation. The plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of a milling table, we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, 19x1000x1650 mm.
3. 1 plate, 4x30x30 mm in size.
4. Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the table top will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a substitute for this material.

• Cut the sheet material into fragments according to the specified dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - the base of the stop; 3 - its stop wall; 4 - kerchief (4 pcs., Dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsar (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not match the specified parameters or be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking with cutters on the surface of the table top.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template when marking

• On the largest cut-out part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make a marking for the cutter. To do this, draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle, placing a mark. Then place the overlay so that the adjustment mechanisms of the router are closer to the edge of the table. With the trim evenly positioned, mark the places for drilling the holes that will be fixed with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

• Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the edge of the sole as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

• From the middle of the cut off part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S \u003d D / 2- (D-H).

Measurements are taken from the edge of the lining sole

• With the help of the holes in the sole of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using the overlay as a template

• Drill holes for fasteners and cutters in parts # 2 and 3. At the base and front of the stop, mark out the semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut out the semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

In the diagram, semicircular cuts are not made

• Fasten four strips (part no. 7) to the underside of the tabletop with screws.

Use wood or epoxy glue

• Glue the rest of the blanks and fix them with screws. Install a router from the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the gantry; 2 - king; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with a countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - kerchief; 7 - stop base

• Now you need to make the supporting structure of the table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side rack; 2 - inner rack; 3 - back rack; 4 - base

• Cut the plywood into pieces according to the dimensions.
• Assemble the structure of the table, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear rack

• Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. To make a plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the cover and make a recess for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the cutter to maximize the processing of parts

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and outline its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the countertop, sand the edges of which.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• Drill holes at the attachment point of the cutter and expand them on the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten with the screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

• For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help to further process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to cut guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stops make the process easy

• Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for attaching the clamps, trims and protective devices.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a dust extraction pipe. To do this, you need to cut out a piece of 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching the adapter for the vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• Add a plywood and plexiglass protective shield for the stop.

For convenience, wing nuts are used

• For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. It is better to use maple wood when making a pressure-comb. To cut out a part, you need to select a section with a straight direction of the wood grain. The crests of the ridges are best done with a circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

• Fix the guide with the clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in the places where milling work will be carried out. Clean all wood elements from dust and coat with oil.

Safety engineering

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of the processed parts flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove the entire tool from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the dispersion of particles.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective shield and measuring workpieces are not allowed. Protective goggles must be worn to avoid eye contact with emitted particles. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to embed the cutter into the part gradually. Power feed should be turned on before the part touches the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to place your hands close in the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks relatively inexpensive materials and your skill can build a compact milling table design. This will allow you to make parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

To make a router with your own hands, you will need to make drawings. The diagrams indicate key design details and their parameters.

The accuracy of the work performed depends on the power of the router.

Design features

The milling machine is used for edging, chamfering and decorative carving. The router, which is used for working with soft metal, is equipped with special knives. The unit in question consists of the following parts:

• motor;
• spindle;
• cutter.

Diagram of the machine for milling.

The working cutter is located on the spindle, which is supplied with rotation from the motor. Some tools of this type operate on a 1-phase AC mains supply. You can make a hand-made homemade router with a small DC motor.

The choice of cutter depends on the material to be processed and the purpose of the tool. For woodwork use simple designs at low speed. It is more difficult to design a machine for working with metal, because this material has higher strength and rigidity.

When the machine is connected to the mains, the spindle rotates, and sharp knives cut material (wood, metal). The spindle must be made of durable material that meets certain standards of hardness and rigidity. The rotation speed affects the accuracy of the work. The number of revolutions depends on the density of the raw material. Experts recommend making homemade apparatus with a regulator.

Unit classification

According to the method of application, hand routers are classified as top, lamella and edging units. Top mills are submersible (with a movable motor) and fixed (with a motor fixed in one position). The classification of narrow-profile units depends on the processed material and parts:

• to work with gypsum board;
• tenoning machines;
• to create grooves.

You can assemble a vertical router for woodworking with your own hands from an electric motor, a cutter and a chuck. The engine is removed from any electrical appliance, and the cartridge from a perforator. The base (chipboard or PVC sheets) is attached to the motor. The engine and the cartridge are connected with a special adapter. If necessary, this work is entrusted to specialists. Then knives are selected and installed. The device is ready for use. An independent CNC device is used to create products designed on a computer (laser cutting, drilling, milling and engraving).

Universal device

On the basis of the resulting apparatus, you can make a universal machine. For this, a bed is used. The machine is suitable for rough woodwork, but it will not work with it to perform accurate high-quality work due to the fact that it does not work at high speed.

To create a multifunctional machine you will need:

• mDF plate (1.5x1.5 m);
• fittings.

A drill and jigsaw are used to cut out parts. The finished machine is not suitable for working with hard metal. In the manufacture of a CNC machine, an aluminum profile with a section of 80x40x4 mm is required, which is cut into beams (4 - 460 mm each, 2 - 1300 mm each).

Experts refer to the advantages of a hand-held milling cutter with their own hands:

• suitable for most surfaces;
• affordable cost;
• ease of use;
• ease of assembly;
• inexpensive service.

The revolutions of a standard motor from a household appliance are not enough to ensure high quality processing. Equipping the structure with a powerful engine helps to eliminate this drawback. To do this, use a motor from a modern rock drill.

For shallow sampling of wood blanks, a motor with a power of up to 500 W is used, but it will stall. Experts recommend installing a motor with a power of 1100 watts or more. A drive of 1 - 2 kW allows to process wood in normal mode with any type of cutter.

Then you need to decide on the resourcefulness. The cut will be more accurate with more revolutions. With motors designed for a 220 V network, the connection will not cause difficulties. A three-phase asynchronous motor is connected according to a special "star-delta" scheme. The connection diagram ensures smooth start-up of the device and operation with high power.

Conclusion on the topic

Before making a homemade device, it is recommended to find out how it works. When the axis begins to rotate, the carriage with the motor moves up or down along it. The runners function as guide stops. The screw is necessary for the fixed fixation of the carriage after its height adjustment. The carrier body is attached to the workbench cover from below, holding the structure.

The carriage with the motor must be securely fixed and immobilized to ensure uniform sampling. Removing the swing arm from the side and equipping with homemade gears will make the design easy to use.

If there is no ready-made table, then when making it take into account the fact that different materials during operation they behave differently. The wooden table is not resistant to moisture, but it absorbs vibrations well.

The guides for the stop can be made of plywood or chipboard. This will allow you to adjust the horizontal position. During the manufacture and use of the tool, safety measures must be observed.

The question of how to make a milling table on your own is asked by many home craftsmen. This is understandable: equipment on which the router is fixed motionless, and the workpiece moves on a specially equipped work table, in many cases is much more convenient to use. Often, when working with a hand router, the workpiece is fixed on an ordinary table, and all manipulations are carried out by the tool itself, which does not allow observing the accuracy of processing.

The milling table greatly improves the productivity and efficiency of the hand router. It is often unprofitable to purchase a serial model of such a table for your home. It is much more economical to make a milling table with your own hands. It will not take much time and will require very little financial costs. Any home master can cope with such a task, if desired.

Using a homemade hand router table when processing wood products, you can achieve the results that professional milling machines can get. With the help of such a simple device, a whole list of technological operations is performed qualitatively: cutting shaped holes and making various cuts and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling edges.

You can see the device of a factory-made milling table in the video below. We will try to do not worse, but in some ways even better and, which is very important, cheaper.

A homemade milling table, which you equip your home machine with, will give you the opportunity to process not only wooden blanks, but also products that are made of chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. With this homemade milling table you can make grooves and slots, process elements of tongue-and-groove and tongue-and-groove joints, chamfering and creating decorative profiles.

A homemade router table, the manufacture of which does not require large financial costs, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. It will only be necessary to fix the tool itself - a hand router, for which you can use a drill stand or a workbench. Not by chance, many manufacturing companies engaged in the manufacture of milling tables and accessories for them, but for such a device you will have to pay a decent amount of money. A home-made table for equipping a milling machine, if made in accordance with the drawings that we will analyze in this article, is in no way inferior in functionality to models released in production conditions, and it will cost much less.

Milling table drawings: option number 1

Drawings of the milling table with a detailed analysis of the design of the main units and their dimensions.

Drawings of a homemade table for a hand router (click to enlarge)

Part dimensions Sectional table Double layer table top Cutout in first layer of table
Marking the cut of the second layer of the table Gluing both layers Sawing the cut according to the markings of the second layer Drawing of the rip fence
End plate of the stop Dust extraction pipe Plexiglass safety guard Comb clamp and locking block

Milling table design

If you wish, you can make a home-made milling table from a regular workbench, but it is better to make a special design. This is explained by the fact that a machine with a cutter creates strong vibration during operation, therefore the bed used to fix the cutter must be highly stable and reliable. It should also be borne in mind that the milling device itself is attached to the bottom of the table top for the milling table, so there should be enough free space under it.

When attaching the device to the tabletop of a home-made table for a hand router, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity, or special clamps for a milling machine. Such a plate can be made of metal sheet, PCB or durable plywood. The soles of most router models already have threaded holes, and they are needed to connect such a device to the tabletop and mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and cut threads in them, or use special clamps for a milling machine.

The clamps for the milling machine or the mounting plate must be flush with the table top, for this, a selection of the appropriate sizes is made in the latter. Several holes must be drilled in the plate, some of which are necessary to connect it to the table top using self-tapping screws, and others in order for such a plate to be fixed on the router base. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must be countersunk.

To make turning on your own more convenient, you can place a regular button on the tabletop, as well as a mushroom button, which will make your device even safer to use. To improve the convenience of your home machine you can fix a long metal ruler on the surface of a milling table made for a do-it-yourself hand router.

Before you start designing a do-it-yourself milling coordinate table, you need to determine the place where it will be located, as well as decide what type of milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate milling cutter with your own hands (the table will be located on the side of the sawing equipment, serve as its extension), a compact desktop machine, free-standing stationary equipment.

You can opt for compact desktop equipment for working with wood and other materials if you use it irregularly or often use it outside your workshop. Such an installation, which is distinguished by its small size, takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.

If the size of your workshop allows, then it is better to adapt the base of a stationary milling machine to the router, which is much more convenient to work on than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be placed on wheels with which you can easily change its location.

A simple homemade milling table. There are questions about the overall strength, but cheap and cheerful.

The simplest milling table or drilling machine table can be made very quickly. For the manufacture of such a structure, easily located on a regular desktop, you will need a chipboard sheet on which the guide elements are fixed. As such a guide, which can be used as a parallel stop for a milling table, is suitable regular board small thickness, which is attached to the tabletop using bolted connections. If necessary, you can attach a second such board in parallel, which will serve as a limit stop.

To insert the router into the table, it will be necessary to make a hole in the chipboard sheet in order to accommodate it, and it will be fixed on the tabletop using two clamps. After that, the manufacture of the milling table can be considered complete. To make the use of such a design more convenient, you can place the simplest clamps for a milling machine on the tabletop.

Bed and table top manufacturing

The bed of a home-made milling machine must be highly stable and reliable, since it will bear the main loads. Structurally, it is a frame with supports, on which the table top is fixed. As a material for the manufacture of the frame of the bed, you can use welded metal profiles, chipboard, MDF, wood. It is advisable to first prepare drawings of such a device. On them, it is necessary to designate all structural elements and their dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.

The lower part of the bed from the side of its front must be deepened by 100-200 mm so that nothing interferes with the legs of the milling machine operator. If you are going to process door linings and front ends for them on your homemade machine, then the dimensions of the bed can be as follows: 900x500x1500 (height, depth, width).

One of the significant characteristics of the bed for a homemade milling machine is its height, which determines the convenience of working on such equipment. According to ergonomic requirements, the most suitable height for equipment to be used while standing is 850–900 mm. It is desirable to make the lower parts of the bed supports adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for unevenness in the floor, but also, if necessary, to change the height of the milling table. To make a turntable with your own hands, it is enough to fix special wheels on its legs.

The assembly of approximately such a table is considered in option 2

You can make a milling table, characterized by a low price, high reliability, from the tabletop of an old kitchen table. Such countertops are usually made of a 26 or 36 mm thick chipboard sheet covered with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface ensures good sliding of the workpiece, and the chipboard base perfectly dampens vibrations arising during the operation of the equipment. If you make a working table for the machine with your own hands, then plates made of MDF and chipboard (chipboard) with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for these purposes.

Milling table drawings: option number 2

Detailed drawings of a milling table with additional pull-out drawers, which can be made from lumber and plywood (or MDF). A list of parts with dimensions and recommended material of manufacture is presented in the table.

Table of table parts and their sizes Frame Top corner of frame Bottom corner of frame
Guide for sliding drawers Diagram of the arrangement of the guides Worktop Drawing of the stop
Large drawer Small drawer Front of small drawer Table side panels

How to make a mounting plate

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling machine is quite thick, the mounting plate for attaching the router should have a minimum thickness. This will maximize the overhang of the cutting tool. It is clear that such a plate with a minimum thickness should be characterized by high strength and rigidity.

The plate can be made of metal or of a material that is not inferior to it in its strength - PCB. The thickness of the PCB sheet should be within 4–8 mm. Using the previously prepared drawings, a rectangular part is cut out of such a sheet, in the center of which a hole is made. The dimensions of the latter correspond to the diameter of the hole in the base of the router.

The connection of the plate with the base of the router and the table itself, as already mentioned above, is ensured by the holes made in it and the corresponding threaded holes in the base of the router. Holes for fixing the plates to the table surface, which are used as clamps for the milling machine, are made at their four corners.

The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the insert to the router must fully correspond to the holes located on the base of the tool. In order not to make a mistake when making a plate, you must first prepare its drawing, on which you must indicate dimensions of this part, the diameters and the location of all holes on it. If you wish, you can fix it on the table surface using the clamps.

A video with a detailed story about the construction of a milling table, the functionality and convenience of which are very high, but the complexity of manufacturing is also very serious. For most craftsmen, such a table will be unnecessarily complicated, but perhaps someone will get useful ideas when creating their own equipment.

Assembling the milling table

Universal milling table or start assembling from the tabletop attachment to the finished bed. The mounting plate is applied to the place of the tabletop where it should be placed according to the drawing, its outline is drawn with a pencil. This is necessary in order to select a recess for the plate along the marked contour, for which a manual router with a tool with a diameter of 6–10 mm is used. The size of this recess must be such that the plate fits into it flush with the surface of the countertop.

It will not work to make a recess with right angles with a round cutter, therefore, on the plate itself, the corners must also be rounded off with a file. After fixing in the worktop, it is necessary to make a hole in the mounting plate with dimensions corresponding to the diameter of the router base. It is done using a straight cutter, the thickness of which should be greater than that of the countertop itself.

When the requirements for the equipment are small and there is no desire to get involved with homemade products, you can buy something similar to the one shown in the photo below.

PROMA at a price of about 6 thousand rubles is one of the cheapest factory milling tables

To perform such an operation, you do not need a drawing, since it does not require high precision. On the back of the tabletop, you also need to select a certain amount of material, since the dust collector cover and other devices will need to be placed at the bottom of the table. To quickly perform all of the above operations, you can focus on the drawings or photos placed in this article.

The final stage in assembling a homemade milling table is to connect all of its structural elements... First, a router is started from the bottom of the tabletop, its sole is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the top surface of the countertop using countersunk self-tapping screws, which must be completely recessed into the prepared holes. Only after performing these operations is the tabletop itself securely fixed to the bed.

Milling table drawings: option No. 3

Compact desktop milling table and detailed analysis its creation in the photo below.

Computer model Assembled exterior Back view Front view
The cutter is raised, the sashes are open The cutter is lowered, the leaves are moved Hand router Hose from the vacuum cleaner for removing dust and shavings
Milling cutter attachment and chip removal Adjusting the cutter lift The cutter is lifted by turning the screw.
Adjustment of the cutter overhang Plexiglass platform before installing the cutter Glass precisely fitted to the tabletop The cutter is screwed from the support platform

Making the upper clamp

Asking the question of how to make a homemade machine safer in operation and to ensure the convenience of processing large workpieces on it, you can equip such equipment with an upper clamp. To create this roller-based fixture, you also need to prepare drawings.

A ball bearing is often used as a roller for the pressure device. suitable size... Such a roller is mounted on a holding device that allows it to be fixed at any distance from the table top. With the help of this simple universal device, the workpiece of any thickness will be securely fixed when moving along the surface of the work table.

In the video below, a man shows his homemade milling table, which he assembled right on the balcony of his own house.

Drive for a homemade milling machine

In order for your homemade wood router to be distinguished by high performance and functionality, you must equip it with an electric drive of sufficient power. If you plan to use your machine for shallow woodworking, a 500W electric motor will suffice. However, equipment with a low power drive will often shut down, which will negate all the savings from purchasing a weak electric motor.

The best choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 W. Such an electric motor with a power ranging from 1–2 kW will allow you to use your homemade device like a real milling machine for processing wood products. In addition, you can use any type of cutter on such a machine. To equip the machine drive, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, on drilling machines), as well as on hand tools (drills, grinders, hand cutters).

More serious plant equipment is already significantly more expensive. For example, the price of such a Kreg table starts at 22 thousand rubles

Pay attention not only to the power, but also to the speed of the electric motor. The higher this indicator, the better the cut will be. Electric motors, as you know, can be powered from an electrical network with a voltage of 220 and 380 V. There will be no problems with connecting the former, but three-phase asynchronous motors will have to be powered using a special "star-delta" circuit. Connecting according to this scheme will make it possible to use the electric motor at its maximum power and provide it with a smooth start. And if you directly connect such an electric motor to a network with a voltage of 220 V, then you will lose 30-50% of its power.

Milling table drawings: option No. 4

Analysis of another design of a do-it-yourself milling table, supplemented by a video from the author.

The lift is organized with a jack Steel plate for fastening the router

Safety when working on a homemade milling table

When making a wood router with your own hands, ensure the safety of working on such equipment. First of all, you need to equip your homemade machine with a protective screen. How such screens are arranged is illustrated by photos and drawings of professional equipment. An obligatory element of your homemade equipment should be an emergency stop button, the so-called fungus. It should be placed in an easily accessible place, and the launch button must be fixed in the place where accidental pressing will be excluded.

Make sure that the treatment area is well illuminated, as it is it that is the most dangerous place of any equipment. If in the course of work you need to frequently change the cutter overhang, it is worth making a manual or automatic device for raising and lowering the tool (lift). By creating an elevator for a router with your own hands, you can use your homemade milling equipment more efficiently and make working on it comfortable and safe. Various designs of such elevators can also be found on the Internet.