How to make a light wiring. Light switch connection diagram, detailed step-by-step instructions. The sequence of installation work

Any novice electrician can conduct the light in the house with his own hands, the main thing is to correctly create a lighting scheme, choose a suitable cable section and, of course, the most optimal types of lamps for each room. Next, we will consider in detail with you the whole essence of electrical work and a visual video instruction in which each of the stages will be demonstrated.

Preparatory work

So, the first thing you should do is choose yourself suitable lamps for all rooms. It all depends only on your preferences, however, we recommend using the following product options:

• bedroom - near the bed of a sconce, on the ceiling a chandelier or LED strip;
• bathroom - there is a lamp near the mirror and spotlights on the ceiling or a waterproof shade;
• corridor - ceiling spotlights;
• living room - floor lamps and a chandelier;
• kitchen - directional lamps, spotlights or LED strip.

You also need to decide what bulbs they should be. Today, incandescent lamps and halogens are a thing of the past, yielding to a more economical and reliable option for lighting in the house -.

When you have already decided exactly on the types of lamps and types of bulbs, you can proceed to an equally important stage - the calculation work. To conduct light in the house, you need to calculate the number of bulbs in relation to each room. For example, four spotlights will suffice for a small bathroom, which cannot be said about a spacious kitchen.

So, you must find two values:

After the number of bulbs has been counted, you need to move on to the final stage - creating an electrical lighting circuit in the house.

By the way, with regard to the cable with which you are going to conduct light in the house, it is best to choose a three-core copper conductor with a cross-section of at least 1.5 mm 2, which will be quite enough for home conditions. The most suitable ratio of price and quality for a domestic cable, which is most often used.

The last thing to do is to draw yourself, on which the following elements will be marked:

• types of lamps in all rooms (for example, a chandelier and sconces can be installed in the bedroom, and only LED lighting in the kitchen);
• cable routing along the walls;
• location of the junction box;
• points of connection of switches.

When the project is created, you can buy all the components and conduct the light in the house with your own hands.

Video review of the new country house with modern lighting:

Cozy cottage

Main process

The technology will be provided from scratch, that is, when the premises will be fully implemented.

So, to make a light in the house with your own hands, you need:

1. Disconnect electricity.
2. Make grooves in the walls for cable laying, according to the diagram.
3. Cut the cable into suitable lengths (from the lead-in box to the junction box, from the box to the chandelier, sconce, etc.).
4. Draw a line of lighting starting from the introductory panel. You need to connect the wires in the junction boxes either by soldering, there should be no twists.
5. Connect switches and lights in rooms.
6. Ring the finished line with a multimeter for a short circuit.
7. If everything is in order, cover the grooves with plaster mortar. Otherwise, you need to do it yourself problem areait is possible that bare cores are touching in one of the junction boxes.
8. Turn on the introductory machine and check the performance of the finished lighting system in the house.

Currently, many people are decorating their balconies, turning them into rooms, recreation areas and are faced with the problem of lighting on the balconies, because they have no sockets or wires for installing lamps. But this is easy to fix. To do this, you must select the outlet closest to the balcony. Have a hammer drill, channel chisel, drill.

On the balcony, we insert a plastic box, which is sold in the store, into the hole, wire the wire, connect the socket, fix the socket in the box. Indoor wire.

As a result of these not difficult actions, all that remains is to hang the lamp on the wall or ceiling and you will have light on the balcony.

The fact that the wires to the outlet on the balcony will go from the outlet to the room will not greatly affect the voltage.

Conducting light on the balcony

In this article, I will tell you how to conduct light on a glazed balcony. Simply, if it is not glazed, then what is the light for?

When there is window frame, there are plans to sheathe the walls with a rail, insulate the floor, light in this room is simply necessary.

So, you need to put light on the balcony. Where to begin? With an assessment of the situation. From which the bulb will be powered by electricity.
And then the question is raised, is it that I pull the cable from the meter or what? Ooh ... I'll shine a flashlight better. Or, if the house is old, then all the wiring lies in the ceiling slab and only there you look for a power cable and pull it to the balcony from it. As a rule, all ceiling twists, it is better not to touch, but for good, change the electrical wiring completely throughout the apartment to copper.

What to do? Let's power ourselves from a regular outlet! Is there such a thing? Not far from the balcony yet? Here's the solution!

What do we need? First, when working with electricity, always carry a voltage indicator light with you. Looks like an ordinary screwdriver, only in a transparent case and inside a LED. When you bring it to the phase, the diode glows. This means that the voltage in the network takes place. Go out into the corridor, because you have a counter there? And turn off the machines by lowering them down. The electricity in the apartment is off.

Well, we can start. Measure the distance from the outlet to the balcony wall and, taking into account the thickness of this very wall, measure the distance to the ceiling. It will be necessary to retreat from the ceiling at least 150 mm and only there attach the junction box into which all the wires will come. But first things first.

Measured the distance and cut the cable. And take a copper cable with a wire cross-section of 2x3.5 or 2x4. For a network cable, do not try to take less. The cable is cut off, everything is ready, but how to attach it to the wall, what would be nice?

You can make a strobe, drown the cable and putty. Do you need it? Buy a cable duct and hide in it. Attach the channel first, then lay the cable and close the channel with a cover. In the wall, in a straight line from the outlet, you need to drill a hole for the cable to pass through. This is best done with a puncher.

Next, remove your outlet, if the cable to the outlet is aluminum, then the ends of the copper cable are best tinned with a soldering iron. But it is best to use a terminal block for connection, because the 2x4 section is still not small and most likely will not fit into the socket terminals.

We take the terminal block, insert the ends into it that come into the outlet. Next, we cut off a small tail of the copper cable, it can be already with a smaller section, 2x2.5, 3x2.5, we clean the ends and fasten with pliers to the ends of the 2x3.5 or 2x4 network cable. Insert the resulting twist into the free end of the terminal block. We put the ends into the outlet from a small tail and put it in place. The electrical network is ready.

Further more interesting. We go out to the balcony and figure out where we will install the junction box. From the ceiling at least 150 mm and can be installed. If you sew up the balcony with a rail, then the box will go special, for fastening on wood or in drywall. Then we look where the light bulb will be. On the ceiling? Okay! Attach a 2x2.5 or 3x2.5 copper cable (on a 3x2.5 cable, one wire will be extra. This is a yellow-green wire. Just cut it off).
You can fix the cable on special fasteners with a nail, they are sold in packs, pieces of 50, or even simpler and much more reliable, drill several holes along the length of the cable with a puncher, insert dowels into them, and wind the wiring on the head of the dowel. When you insert the cable, simply use the wire to screw it to the wall or ceiling. Very comfortably.

Have a light bulb cable? Well, then we run the cable from the switch in the same way. Wherever you want the light to turn on, there will be a switch. We put all the ends of the cables into a box, from the network, a light bulb and a switch, well, you probably also want to stick a socket. You are welcome! Fasten the cable according to the example and the ends into the box. Did you get 8 ends? Right?

Now the main thing is that the circuit would work, the ends of the wires must be twisted or, as they say, unsoldered. Do you have a network, there are two wires, take them to the side, then, two wires from the light bulb, take them away? Then two wires from the switch and two from the socket.

Let's start with the simplest, wind up the ends of the network cable and the cable that comes from the outlet with pliers. Try to wrap in color. Did you get it? Excellent. Then, to these two coiled ends, lead the cable that goes from the bulb. Use the same pliers to wind the phase wire from the light bulb (as a rule of blue color) to the wound end, most likely also blue.

Made? Okay. To the white, or better to say to the free end of the twist, wind the wire from the switch, observing the color. Done. There are two free ends left. Right? Yes, that's right. One from the light bulb, the other from the switch. Connect them.

It is possible to insulate the twists with electrical tape, but it is best to do this using the “PPE” connecting cap. It is simply screwed onto the twist until it stops. Hide the wires in the box, close it with a lid, and one more moment, screw the light bulb. At least temporarily, you can also put on the terminal block. That's all, go into the corridor and turn on the machines. Everything is working. Now you have light on your balcony!

Good luck !!!

Requirements for conducting electricity for lighting on the loggia and balcony

One of the stages of finishing the loggia and balcony is to conduct electricity here. For the correct installation of wiring in this place of the house, it is best to contact a specialist. But if you have the necessary knowledge and experience in working with electricity, then this stage renovation works you can do it yourself.

Usually electrical wiring spend before finishing works in room. It is best to opt for watertight sealed switches, lights and sockets for this part of the house.

Although the balcony and loggia have traditionally good natural light, they also require electric lighting. It is better if these are upper spotlights and sconces.

Controlling the light on the balcony and loggia is best placed in the next room, which borders such a room. To comply with electrical safety rules, the junction box must also be in this room.

In general, the wiring of electricity to the balcony and loggia is carried out in several stages. First, special holes are punched in the wall using a concrete drill. The hole diameter must be equal to the diameter of the corrugated pipe or metal hose.

After that, an electrical cable in a metal hose or corrugated pipe is pulled to the balcony and loggia and is attached to the wall bordering the next room. It should be remembered that the PVC corrugated pipe or metal hose should not come into contact with the insulation.

Then a cable (preferably copper) is laid from the apartment to a new or closest junction box, outlet or electrical panel.
The next stage includes conducting electric cable on the balcony to the desired location of the fixtures.

After that, the fastening of electrical boxes, sockets and switches, sconces and point ceiling lamps... These works are completed by connecting electricity. This is done after the work on the sheathing and insulation of the balcony and loggia. This sequence allows you to hide the electrical wiring under the skin, thereby not disturbing appearance premises.

Before starting these works, you need to think over the choice of lamps. Lamps are best suited for lighting the loggia and balcony. small size... These should be recessed spotlights or outdoor luminaires that fit well to the ceiling.

It must be remembered that a large chandelier or sconce will not fit well into a small room in a loggia or balcony. It will also prevent you from opening the casements. The use of wall sconces is also acceptable for such premises. Processed

Oddly enough it sounds, but electrical work in the country begins with a design project for all premises. And then suddenly it turns out that there is nowhere to connect a floor lamp above your favorite armchair in a secluded corner, or an outlet was found for a TV with a DVD player, but you can't put the phone on recharging ... Of course, you can use extension cords, but if you really want to constantly tripping over wires on the floor? In general, first we arm ourselves with paper, a pencil and a tape measure and carefully draw a plan for the arrangement of furniture in all rooms.

Having placed it on paper, you can quite accurately determine where and how many sources are needed, on which side of the door to make the switch, at what height and where to fix additional lamps, where to hang the chandelier on the ceiling ... required amount sockets and lighting fixtures, roughly estimate the total required power in order to purchase the required number of automatic fuses in advance. In fact, the more fuses, the safer the entire electrical network in the house.

It makes sense for each room to put its own automatic socket outlet, where there will be the greatest load, and one fuse for the overhead light for the entire floor (if there are several floors, respectively, one for each). You should not chase cheapness and buy these devices in the construction markets - they often melt themselves, but the network is not turned off!

Having decided on the number of machines, we select a special mounting box for them, which allows you to manage your network from one place. According to existing rules, the fuse box should be located as close as possible to the meter, which, in turn, is recommended to be placed as close as possible to the power cable entry into the house. Considering that the counter, fuse box, and a bunch of wires are not entirely aesthetic spectacle, it is worth placing them somewhere in utility roombut providing easy access to them.

Now comes the fun part. With a tape measure in hand, we accurately measure the distance from the desired fuse to the farthest outlet in the room - this is exactly the length of the wire that will be needed. Therefore, in our time, many devices consume quite a lot of electricity, the cross-section of the wire (copper stranded) should be at least 3X2.5 mm 2.

We start the installation of the line from the far outlet towards the flap - so that it does not work out later, that some 20 cm was not enough! You only need to remember one thing: the installation is carried out in a continuous line, in no case do not cut the wire in intermediate sockets - they are mounted in parallel! In places where the wire is inserted into the contacts, it is advisable to install pieces of heat-shrinkable tubes for reliable insulation. We lay the wire itself along the bottom of the wall and close it wooden skirting board or we hide in special plastic cable ducts, a great variety of which can be found in any construction market.

Well, the sockets are installed, the wires are laid to the shield, what next?

And then nothing complicated is foreseen, you just need to be patient and carefully mount all the wires according to the connection diagram. To do this, you will definitely need two or three wiring blocks, preferably in a plastic case for greater electrical safety. Such pads are installed in a special plastic box and do not interfere with the aesthetic perception of the switchboard as a whole. To connect pads and machines, you will literally need a couple of meters of single-core copper wire with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2 - it is just more convenient for installation. Do not just forget about those wires that were already connected in the sockets to the terminal "0" ("ground") - they are all collected on a separate block and output with a thick (with a cross section of at least 4 mm2) single-core copper wire for grounding, which is possible without problems to connect, for example, to the lightning protection circuit of the entire house - this is such a metal strip encircling the foundation.

Everything is simple with the overhead light! We pull the wire from the hook of the chandelier along the ceiling to the wall, lay it along the wall to the location of the switch and install a small junction box: a small plastic box is usually round or square - as you like. Everything inside the box is not needed, only the body is important. Using a small mounting block, we carefully connect the switch wire to the main one and hide the connection in the box.

All! We can invite an acceptance commission. If the work is done accurately, then there will be no complaints and - hurray! Light bulb, burn!

By the way

Those who are just planning to "electrify" summer cottages should remember about the proposed complete ban on the sale of any household incandescent light bulbs in Russia by 2014. They must be replaced with energy-efficient counterparts. Already in 2011, the sale of bulbs more powerful than 100 W will be banned, and since 2013 - more powerful than 75 W. By the way, in the EU countries, household 100 W incandescent lamps have already disappeared from the shelves.

The dimensions of fluorescent lamps are often larger than those of the good old "Ilyich lamps". And although manufacturers promise to supply us with lighting devices of all sizes, shapes and styles in the near future, take this factor into account when choosing new lamps and chandeliers for a country house.

Even a novice electrician can provide light in the house. In this case, it is only necessary to choose the right cable cross-section, complete the diagram and choose the most suitable lamps for the dwelling rooms.

To understand how to do this with your own hands, it is worth considering in more detail. given view electrical work.

Preparation for work

First you need to choose lamps to taste for each room.

We can only advise the types that will be most suitable:

• it is customary to use spotlights in the corridor;
• in the ceiling of the bathroom, spotlights or a cover, protected from moisture, are mounted. It is also worth installing a lamp above the mirror;
• as for the bedroom, they usually choose lamps above the bed and a chandelier on the ceiling. Instead of a chandelier, you can give preference to an LED strip;
• the kitchen should be as lit as possible. The most popular are led strip, spotlights and directional lamps;
• the living room is most often lit with chandeliers, and floor lamps are also added.

Don't forget about the choice of lamps, now lED lamp pushed into the background both "halogens" and classic incandescent lamps, thanks to their reliability and economy.

Any purchases of components should be made only after a clear definition of the lighting connection plan in the house.

After you choose the types of lamps and lamps, you should calculate their number. To do this, you will have to determine not only the number of lamps, but also the estimated lighting power.

The power is determined quite simply - you multiply the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the coefficient of demand and the specific power of the lamps.

The number of lamps is even easier to determine - multiply the demand factor by the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and divide by the power of one lamp.

Having calculated both indicators, you can safely start creating a lighting scheme. A little advice on the cable that will be connected to the fixtures. Ideal option there will be a three-core copper wire with a cross section of one and a half square millimeters.

The final stage preparatory work Is a drawing of a lighting scheme.

All the required elements must be applied to it:

• the route along which the wall guides will pass;
• various types of lamps placed in the rooms;
• distribution box location;
• the places where the switches will be located.

After that, you can safely proceed to conducting the light.

Main job

In this case, we will describe the process of connecting light with initial stage, that is, wiring.

Here step-by-step instruction:

• turn off the power in the room;
• strictly according to the scheme, groove special trenches for laying conductors;
• cut the wire into pre-calculated parts so that they are enough to carry it from the shield to the box and from the box to the lamps;
• draw the light line. It starts from the shield, it is worth connecting the wires with soldering or terminals, excluding twists;
• connect and mount lamps;
• "Ring" the entire route to avoid short circuit;
• if no problems are found, cover the trenches with gypsum solution;
• turn on the machine on the introductory panel and check the operation of the lighting.

Important! All work must be carried out with strict implementation of the PUE, since your health directly depends on this.

That's it - the lighting is on.

Several lighting groups should be carried out, dividing them into different rooms... This will allow you to carry out repairs without turning off the power of the entire apartment.

You should not use an aluminum cable, it withstands loads much worse than a copper analog.

Instead of a classic switch, it is better to install a dimmer in the living room and bedrooms, thanks to which the brightness of the lighting is regulated.

Concealed wiring will be more practical. This method not only does not spoil the interior, but also makes the wiring less susceptible to mechanical stress.

Each group of wires in the junction box must be labeled. This will help avoid confusion when repairs are possible.

Useful video

You can get additional information on this issue by watching the video below.

Even 15 - 20 years ago, the load on the power grid was relatively small, but today there is a large number of household appliances provoked an increase in loads at times. Old wires are far from always able to withstand a heavy load and over time there is a need to replace them. Laying electrical wiring in a house or apartment is a matter that requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. First of all, this concerns knowledge of the rules for wiring wiring, the ability to read and create wiring diagrams, as well as wiring skills. Of course, you can do it yourself, but for this you need to adhere to the rules and recommendations below.

Wiring rules

All construction activities and construction Materials are strictly regulated by a set of rules and requirements - SNiP and GOST. As for the installation of electrical wiring and everything related to electricity, you should pay attention to the Rules for the Arrangement of Electrical Installations (abbreviated as PUE). This document prescribes what and how to do when working with electrical equipment. And if we want to lay electrical wiring, then we need to study it, especially the part that relates to the installation and selection of electrical equipment. Below are the basic rules to follow when installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment:

• key elements of electrical wiring such as distribution boxes, meters, sockets and switches should be easily accessible;
• installation of switches is carried out at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor. The switches themselves are located in places where opened door does not prevent access to them. This means that if the door opens to the right, then the switch is on the left side and vice versa. The wire to the switches is laid from top to bottom;
• sockets are recommended to be installed at a height of 50 - 80 cm from the floor. This approach is dictated by flooding safety. Also, sockets are installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from gas and electric stoves, as well as heating radiators, pipes and other grounded objects. The wire to the sockets is laid from bottom to top;
• the number of sockets in the room must correspond to 1 pc. by 6 m2. The kitchen is an exception. It installs as many outlets as necessary to connect household appliances. Installation of sockets in the toilet is prohibited. For sockets in the bathroom, a separate transformer is installed outside it;
• the wiring inside or outside the walls is done only vertically or horizontally, and the wiring location is displayed on the wiring plan;
• wires are laid at a certain distance from pipes, floors and other things. For horizontal ones, a distance of 5-10 cm from the floor beams and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling is required. The height from the floor is 15 - 20 cm. Vertical wires are placed at a distance of more than 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. The distance from the gas pipes must be at least 40 cm;
• when laying external or hidden wiring, it is necessary to ensure that it does not come into contact with the metal parts of building structures;
• when laying several parallel wires, the distance between them must be at least 3 mm, or each wire must be hidden in a protective box or corrugation;
• wiring and connection of wires is carried out inside special junction boxes. The joints are carefully insulated. Copper and aluminum wire each other is strictly prohibited;
• grounding and neutral wires are bolted to the devices.

Project and wiring diagram

Wiring work begins with the creation of a project and a wiring diagram. This document is the basis for future house wiring. The creation of a project and a scheme is quite a serious matter and it is better to entrust it to experienced specialists. The reason is simple - the safety of those living in the house or apartment depends on it. Project creation services will cost a certain amount, but it's worth it.

Those who are used to doing everything with their own hands will have to, adhering to the above rules, as well as having studied the basics of electrical engineering, independently make a drawing and calculations for network loads. There are no particular difficulties in this, especially if there is at least some understanding of what electricity, and what are the consequences of careless handling of it. The first thing you need is a legend. They are shown in the photo below:

Using them, we make a drawing of the apartment and outline the lighting points, the installation locations of switches and sockets. How many and where they are installed is described above in the rules. The main task of such a scheme is to indicate the location of the installation of devices and wiring. When creating a wiring diagram, it is important to think in advance where, how much and what kind of household appliances will be.

The next step in creating a diagram will be the wiring to the connection points on the diagram. It is necessary to dwell on this point in more detail. The reason is in the type of wiring and connection. There are several such types in total - parallel, sequential and mixed. The latter is the most attractive due to the economical use of materials and maximum efficiency. To facilitate wiring, all connection points are divided into several groups:

• lighting of the kitchen, corridor and living rooms;
• toilet and bathroom lighting;
• power supply of outlets in living rooms and corridor;
• power supply for kitchen sockets;
• power supply socket for electric stove.

The above example is just one of many lighting group options. The main thing to understand is that if you group the connection points, the amount of materials used is reduced and the circuit itself is simplified.

Important! To simplify wiring to the outlets, the wires can be tucked under the floor. Overhead lighting wires are laid inside the floor slabs. These two methods are good to use if you don't want to gouge walls. In the diagram, such wiring is marked with a dotted line.

Also in the wiring project, the calculation of the estimated current strength in the network and the materials used are indicated. The calculation is performed according to the formula:

I \u003d P / U;

where P is the total power of all used devices (Watt), U is the voltage in the network (Volts).

For example, a kettle of 2 kW, 10 bulbs of 60 W each, a microwave oven of 1 kW, a refrigerator of 400 W. The current strength is 220 volts. As a result (2000+ (10x60) + 1000 + 400) / 220 \u003d 16.5 Amperes.

In practice, the current in the network for modern apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all materials are selected. First of all, this concerns the cross-section of the wiring. To facilitate selection, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable:

The table shows the most accurate values, and since quite often the current strength can fluctuate, a small margin will be required for the wire or cable itself. Therefore, all wiring in an apartment or house is recommended to be made of the following materials:

• vVG-5 * 6 wire (five cores and a cross-section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with three-phase power supply to connect the lighting panel to the main panel;
• vVG-2 * 6 wire (two cores and a cross-section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a two-phase power supply to connect the lighting panel to the main panel;
• vVG-3 * 2.5 wire (three cores and a cross-section of 2.5 mm2) is used for most of the wiring from the lighting panel to junction boxes and from them to sockets;
• vVG-3 * 1.5 wire (three cores and a cross section of 1.5 mm2) is used for wiring from junction boxes to lighting points and switches;
• vVG-3 * 4 wire (three cores and a cross-section of 4 mm2) is used for electric stoves.

To find out the exact length of the wire, you will have to run around the house a little with a tape measure, and add another 3-4 meters of stock to the result. All wires are connected to a lighting panel that is installed at the entrance. Circuit breakers are mounted in the shield. Usually these are RCDs for 16 A and 20 A. The former are used for lighting and switches, the latter for sockets. For the electric stove, a separate RCD of 32 A is installed, but if the power of the stove exceeds 7 kW, then an RCD of 63 A.

Now you need to calculate how many sockets and junction boxes are needed. Everything is pretty simple here. It is enough to look at the diagram and make a simple calculation. In addition to the materials described above, various consumables will be required, such as electrical tape and PPE caps for connecting wires, as well as pipes, cable ducts or conduits for electrical wiring, socket boxes.

Installation of electrical wiring

There is nothing super complicated in wiring work. The main thing during installation is to adhere to safety rules and follow the instructions. All work can be done alone. From the installation tool, you will need a tester, a hammer drill or grinder, a drill or screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers, and a Phillips and slotted screwdrivers. It will not be superfluous laser level... Since without it it is rather difficult to make vertical and horizontal markings.

Important! When carrying out repairs with the replacement of wiring in an old house or apartment with hidden wiring, you must first find and, if necessary, remove the old wires. For these purposes, a wiring sensor is used.

Layout and preparation of channels for electrical wiring

We start with the markup. To do this, using a marker or pencil, we put a mark on the wall where the wire will be laid. At the same time, we observe the rules for placing wires. The next step is to mark the places for the installation of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches and a lighting panel.

Important! In new houses, a special niche is provided for the lighting panel. In old ones, such a shield is simply hung on the wall.

Having finished with the markings, we proceed either to the installation of wiring in an open way, or to the chipping of the walls for hidden wiring. First, using a perforator and a special crown nozzle, holes are cut out for the installation of sockets, switches and junction boxes. For the wires themselves, grooves are made using a grinder or a perforator. In any case, there will be a lot of dust and dirt. The depth of the groove of the groove should be about 20 mm, and the width should be such that all the wires can easily fit in the groove.

As for the ceiling, there are several options for resolving the issue of placing and securing the wiring. First, if the ceiling is suspended or suspended, then all the wiring is simply fixed to the ceiling. The second - a shallow strobe is made for wiring. Third, the wiring is hidden in the ceiling. The first two options are extremely simple to implement. But for the third one will have to make some explanations. AT panel houses floors with internal voids are used, it is enough to make two holes and stretch the wires inside the floor.

Having finished with the gating, we proceed to the last stage of preparation for the wiring installation. Wires to bring them into the room must be pulled through the walls. Therefore, you will have to punch holes with a punch. Usually such holes are made in the corner of rooms. We also make a hole for the wire plant from the switchboard to the lighting panel. Having finished chipping the walls, we begin the installation.

Installation of open wiring

We begin the installation by installing the lighting shield. If a special niche was created for it, then we place it there, but if not, then we simply hang it on the wall. We install an RCD inside the shield. Their number depends on the number of lighting groups. The assembled and ready-to-connect shield looks like this: in the upper part there are zero terminals, grounding terminals below, automatic machines are installed between the terminals.

Now we put inside the VVG-5 * 6 or VVG-2 * 6 wire. From the side of the switchboard, the electrical wiring is connected by an electrician, so for now we will leave it without connection. Inside the lighting panel, the lead-in wire is connected as follows: we connect the blue wire to zero, the white wire to the upper contact of the RCD, and connect the yellow wire with a green stripe to ground. We connect the RCDs in series with each other at the top using a jumper from the white wire. Now we turn to open wiring.

We fix boxes or cable channels for electrical wiring along the lines outlined earlier. Often, with open wiring, the cable channels themselves are trying to be placed near the baseboard, or vice versa, almost under the ceiling. We fix the wiring boxes with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 50 cm. We make the first and last holes in the box at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. To do this, we drill holes in the wall using a punch, drive a dowel inside and fix the cable channel with self-tapping screws.

One more distinctive feature exposed wiring are sockets, switches and distribution boxes. All of them are hung on the wall, instead of being embedded inside. Therefore, the next step is to put them in place. It is enough to attach them to the wall, mark the places for fasteners, drill holes and secure them in place.

Next, we proceed to the wiring. We start by laying the main highway and from the sockets to the lighting panel. As already noted, we use the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire for this. For convenience, we start from the connection point towards the shield. At the end of the wire we hang a label indicating what kind of wire is and where it comes from. Next, we lay the VVG-3 * 1.5 wires from the switches and lighting devices to the junction boxes.

We connect the wires inside the junction boxes using PPE or carefully insulate. Inside the lighting panel, the main wire VVG-3 * 2.5 is connected as follows: brown or red core - phase, connected to the bottom of the RCD, blue - zero, connected to the zero bus at the top, yellow with a green stripe - ground to the bus at the bottom. With the help of a tester, we "ring" all the wires to eliminate possible errors. If everything is in order, call an electrician and connect to the switchboard.

Installation of hidden wiring

The hidden wiring is quite simple. A significant difference from the open only in the way of hiding the wires from the eyes. The rest of the actions are almost the same. First, we install the lighting panel and RCD machines, after which we start and connect the lead-in cable from the side of the switchboard. We also leave it unconnected. An electrician will do this. Next, we install distribution boxes and socket boxes inside the niches made.

Now we turn to the wiring. We are the first to lay the main line from the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire. If it was planned, then we lay the wires to the sockets in the floor. To do this, we put the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire into a pipe for electrical wiring or a special corrugation and lay it to the point where the wire is output to the sockets. There we place the wire inside the groove and put it into the socket. The next step will be to lay the VVG-3 * 1.5 wire from the switches and lighting points to the junction boxes, where they are connected to the main wire. We insulate all connections with PPE or electrical tape.

At the end, we "ring up" the entire network with a tester for possible errors and connect it to the lighting panel. The connection method is similar to that described for open wiring. Upon completion, we seal the grooves with plaster putty and invite an electrician to connect it to the switchboard.

Electrical installation in a house or apartment for experienced master - it's easy enough. But for those who are poorly versed in electrical engineering, you should use the help of experienced specialists from start to finish. This, of course, will cost money, but this way you can protect yourself from mistakes that can lead to a fire.