14942 0 4

What insulation for the ceiling to choose or 3 available ways to independently insulate the ceiling

When the question of keeping warm in the house arises, the first thing that an ordinary person immediately remembers is the insulation of the walls and floor. But such a one-sided approach is fundamentally wrong, because even from the school physics course, everyone knows that warm air rises up and if you do not take into account the ceiling, then all other efforts and investments will be in vain. In this article I will talk about which insulation for the ceiling is better to use and how to insulate the ceiling in the house in three different ways.

What to consider when choosing a material

When choosing a heater, there are several main assessment criteria - this is the level of vapor permeability, flammability, weight and strength of the material itself, there is still a price, but this is more a personal matter.

Ceilings only at first glance to an uninitiated person may seem different, in reality there are only 2 types of floors - concrete and wood:

• Everything is simple with concrete floor slabs, they do not burn and are distinguished by an enviable bearing capacity. Concrete itself is considered partially vapor-permeable. But for floor slabs, this indicator is so low that when choosing what kind of insulation it is better to equip the ceiling with, it can simply be ignored;
• Attic ceilings in private houses are often mounted on a wooden base, and wood, as you know, is a living material, which burns well and allows steam to pass quite well. So if you block the air supply, the rafters will sooner or later begin to rot. At the same time, combustible insulation under the roof of a wooden house is dangerous.

Now we have come to one of the main parameters, which directly affects how to choose a heater. This is the location of the insulation layer. After all, the overlap can be insulated both from inside the room and from above, that is, from the unheated side.

For an amateur, the simplest, most affordable and inexpensive option is the arrangement of the attic floor. You must admit that here a person does not need to "fence" improvised forests and balance on them, hemming the ceiling from below.

In addition, the question of how thick the insulation should be, with outdoor installation actually disappears, there the more, the better, there is enough space. Moreover, you can use both slab and bulk material.

Installation from inside the premises is a completely different matter. In our houses, really high ceilings are not so common, which means that every centimeter will have to be borrowed from the living space. In my experience, owners rarely agree to "lower" the ceiling by more than 150mm. Accordingly, the insulation must be selected lightweight, durable and with the lowest possible thermal conductivity.

A non-insulated attic floor is one of the most vulnerable building structures in relation to heat loss. Through it, from 20 to 40% of the heat energy required by residents is easily "evaporated" into the atmosphere.

The percentage of loss depends on the material used in the construction of the truss and on the type of roofing used in the roof arrangement.

Insulating the ceiling in a house with a cold roof will significantly reduce heat loss. We will tell you how the thermal insulation works are carried out.

We will list in detail what materials will be required for the implementation of activities. Taking into account our recommendations, you can significantly increase the energy efficiency of the building.

The ceiling is insulated if a non-residential attic is located above it, respectively, not equipped with thermal insulation.

It is not used as a living space in winter, therefore, it does not need a layer of insulation on the slopes. Often this is just a warehouse for inventory and a room for drying mushrooms / berries.

The non-residential attic itself plays the role of an air chamber, preventing the movement of heat waves both inside the structure and out. However, to dry the wooden elements of the frame structure, roofing, metal fastening parts, the cold attic is usually equipped with effective ventilation.

Ventilate it naturally, i.e. regular ventilation without using any mechanisms. The system operates without coercion. Air moves due to the temperature difference with pressure outside the attic and inside it.

The air flow enters the attic space through the dormer windows in summer and the gaps that frame them in winter, when a vacuum is formed inside. It is removed spontaneously, displaced by a new portion coming from the street.

For building structures, constant air circulation is really necessary. But along with the continuously moving air masses, heat is blown out of the attic. As a result, instead of saving it to save energy resources, additional costs are obtained.

How to deal with them? Be sure to insulate! Warming is done in two standard ways, these are:

• Thermal insulation device on the ceiling from above. Those. from the side of the attic on a reinforced concrete floor or between wooden logs, plates of foamed polymers, mineral wool are placed, expanded clay or folk remedies (sawdust, dry foliage, etc.) are poured.
• Installation of slab insulation from inside the premises. Simply put, the fastening of polystyrene plates from the side of the premises to the lower plane of the ceiling.

In both cases, the insulation layer increases along the perimeter, i.e. along the line of joining of the floor and the adjacent wall. Reinforcement is required here due to increased heat loss. A vapor barrier membrane is placed between the wall, the ceiling and the insulating layer.

Why is not waterproofing used in the formation of a heat-insulating cake over the floor? Yes, because it is necessary to protect it, first of all, from steam penetrating from residential premises, and not from atmospheric water flowing from above.

It is the fumes emitted during breathing by us, our pets and houseplants formed during the cooking process that can harm the thermal insulation system during hygiene procedures. But on top of the water, the roof must be protected.

By the way, when laying all types of heaters from the side of the cold attic, they are not blocked from above by either steam or waterproofing. Thus, they leave the opportunity for the materials to dry out spontaneously when airing the attic space.

It is in no case possible for heaters to "dry" and "get wet" under a practically sealed insulating film. Together with moisture, they lose their insulating properties. Wet insulation retains almost nothing, but it can rot, and mold will spread to wooden elements.

Vapor barrier under the insulation, laid from the side of the attic, is arranged in the form of a trough: with the edges of the panel running onto the walls. So it will prevent the insulation from getting wet not only from steam moving up from the side of the premises, but also from the side of the walls that absorb atmospheric moisture.

It is permissible not to use a vapor barrier only when extruded polystyrene boards are used as thermal insulation. They have virtually no pores to absorb and retain moisture.

Moreover, this is allowed only over premises with a stable "dry" operating regime. Above toilets, showers, swimming pools, the vapor barrier is paired with extruded polystyrene as usual. There, after all, there is a possibility of moisture penetration between the joints of the plates.

Insulation from the attic side

Almost all types of insulating materials are used in the insulation of the ceiling from the cold attic. In the course of the bulk options, rigid foam boards, soft cotton mats.

Both industrial products and good old folk materials are used. The main advantages of the former include manufacturability. Their manufacturers have thought over and provided everything for the prompt implementation of lightweight styling.

Folk remedies are much harder to lay. They are not easy to collect in the required volume, and even deliver them to the place of work, which is most often done by hand in buckets. But they are much cheaper, better than industrial products they coexist with wood and do not emit toxins harmful to us.

The device of thermal insulation from the side of the attic space involves periodic maintenance of the insulation system.

Loose materials need to be periodically loosened so that they dry better, the rest should be examined and artificially dried, for example, with a hairdryer, if necessary.

For inspection and maintenance along the logs above the thermal insulation, "paths" of two or three boards are built. If it is supposed to pour the screed over heat-insulating plates and rigid mats, then the trajectory of the proposed path is laid out with a reinforcing mesh.

Use of mineral wool

The group of mineral wool includes glass wool, stone (i.e. basalt) wool and slag wool. Glass wool in recent years has been used less and less because of its ability to abundantly "dust" with small glassy particles, which are strictly prohibited to inhale.

Working with glass wool is allowed only with a respirator and goggles. In addition, the smallest glass fibers are harmful to the skin.

Therefore, an overalls made of dense fabric with durable elastic bands on the legs and sleeves, and even gloves, should be added to personal protective equipment.

Slag wool is not used for insulating ceiling ceilings in low-rise buildings due to toxicity. What remains is basalt, aka stone wool, produced from volcanic rocks. This is because it is not harmful to use and easy to install.

The technology of thermal insulation with basalt wool is determined by the type of floor:

• On reinforced concrete floors. First, the base is repaired and leveled, then the vapor barrier is laid with the edges going over the walls. After that, the mats are rolled out and laid in 2 layers so that the butt seams of the lower tier are overlapped by the middle of the upper mat, i.e. scattered.
• On wooden floors. The mats are placed in the space between the lags. Preliminarily, a vapor barrier material is placed in each "cell" formed by the lags, with an approach to the lags and along the perimeter on the walls.

The cotton wool is cut out before laying. Cut it so that the piece is at least 2 cm wider and longer than the actual size of the cell.

Before installing in place, the cotton piece is slightly squeezed so that after it it straightens in place and covers the entire space with itself. This eliminates the formation of cold bridges.

Thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene plates

Plate heaters are used mainly for reinforced concrete floors. It is difficult to choose the size for laying in the space between the lags. You have to cut, waste time, and often material with illiterate cutting, and in general it is difficult to do everything without gaps, and these are ways for heat loss.

In the arrangement of the insulation complex for reinforced concrete floors, two types of slab thermal insulation are used:

• Styrofoam. It is non-extruded polystyrene foam. The material requires the obligatory device of a vapor barrier layer before laying due to the fact that there are channels in its structure that can absorb water.
• Extruded polystyrene. Most often it is Penoplex. Due to the practically waterproof surface, it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier before laying it over living quarters, bedrooms, living rooms, children's rooms.

Before installing slab thermal insulation from the side of the cold attic, the bases must be repaired and leveled. The vapor barrier film is laid in the form of a pallet with sides bent onto the walls.

Lay the slabs loosely. They are arranged in two layers with a gap in the seams in the lower and upper tiers. If Penoplex with a mounting chamfer is used, the seams do not need to be sealed, if the foam is used, then the seams and stacks are filled with sealant or polyurethane foam.

The screed on the slabs is most often carried out partially, only in the place of the installation of the maintenance paths. It is either poured with a cement-sand mixture with a reinforcing mesh with a layer not exceeding 4 cm, or it is constructed from gypsum fiber sheets.

If it is poured with a solution, then waterproofing is laid for insulation. Purely so that the concrete milk does not seep into the insulation and does not affect its insulating qualities.

Arrangement with expanded clay gravel

The most famous backfill insulation material is expanded clay. It is used both directly for insulation and for lightening insulating compounds and mixtures. Expanded clay is produced in the form of gravel with a size of 4 to 10 mm.

Expanded clay is produced from environmentally friendly easily sintered clay. The material is affordable, non-flammable, moisture resistant, lightweight, which greatly facilitates delivery and backfilling. They fall asleep either in the space between the lags, or directly on the reinforced concrete floor.

Before backfilling expanded clay, the base is covered with a vapor barrier film, the edges of which traditionally go onto the walls. These peculiar bumpers should be 10-15 cm above the level of the gravel layer poured onto the ceiling.

It is not necessary to arrange paths for maintenance on expanded clay. You can walk directly on the backfill. Periodically, it needs to be stirred with a rake so that all the artificial stones of the insulating layer can dry out.

In addition to expanded clay, a wide range of folk filling means for insulation is still used, attracting mainly owners of eco-houses as adherents of materials that are safe for themselves and the environment.

Bulk folk materials

Adherents of environmentally friendly construction methods have their own opinion, based on centuries of successful practice, about options for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

They believe that it is correct and reasonable to insulate both the ceiling under a cold roof and the slopes with natural materials.

In terms of insulating qualities, natural options are certainly inferior to industrial insulation.

But thermal insulation of natural origin is distinguished by:

• Environmental priorities. They do not pose the slightest threat to the environment, do not emit or spread harmful chemical components. Natural heat insulators do not need to be disposed of in a special way, they can simply be burnt or put in a compost heap.
• Practicality. Folk heaters perfectly retained heat back in the days when the home was heated only by a stove. In addition, there was no such powerful heating equipment that the current owners of private houses have.
• Economic benefits. You can prepare natural thermal insulation for a penny or even free of charge. It is possible to carry out replacement as technical characteristics are lost much more often than factory products.
• Symbiosis with natural building materials. Natural heat insulators perfectly coexist with wood, clay, soil backfill. With a stable temperature regime, they do not deteriorate from contact with a stone.
• Security for residents. In extremely rare cases, natural materials can cause an allergic reaction, the origin of which is undeniable chemical prerequisites.

Most natural heat insulators, according to the method of installation, belong to the filling varieties. They are freely distributed over the overlap, periodically agitated for drying and increasing the thermal insulation properties. For service, they arrange paths from a pair of boards laid on logs.

One of the popular options for natural insulation is ecowool made from natural cellulose. Its advantages include the manufacturability of application, thoroughly thought out by the manufacturers, and the performance of pretreatment with fire retardants and antiseptics.

To this day, they are used as natural thermal insulation:

• Shavings and sawdust. Their abundant amount remains after the construction of a wooden house; you can replenish supplies at sawmills and woodworking workshops. Fall asleep with a layer of 15 - 30 cm.
• Straw. You can harvest it at the nearest farm that grows cereals. It fits in a layer of 25 cm.
• Moss. Excellent, practically non-rotting thermal insulation, applied both from the inside of the building and from the outside. The qualities inherent in nature make it possible to use moss for ten or more years. The insulation layer can be relatively insignificant, up to 10 cm.
• Dry foliage, hay. You can stock up on such thermal insulation absolutely free of charge, but you will have to change it almost every year due to the tendency to quickly saturate with moisture. You can use not only foliage, but also needles. It is enough to insulate with a layer of up to 20 cm.
• Seaweed. Not in all regions of our country, you can freely get this insulation option. True, the inhabitants of the seaside have enough of them and can change them every year. The stacking power is up to 20 cm. The great advantages include the spread of volatile iodine molecules useful for people.

If in your area there is a pond overgrown with reeds, this plant will also serve. Its stems are tied together with a bundle or metal wire. Then the bundles fill the space between the ceiling beams and logs.

The above types of natural thermal insulation have a number of significant disadvantages that are not typical of factory products. Therefore, in order to improve consumer qualities, filling natural insulation must be carefully prepared before laying.

The disadvantages that should be minimized before use are quite rightly:

• Flammability and ability to perfectly sustain combustion... Flame retardant treatment fights this disadvantage perfectly. Instead, you can use clay or slag, with a layer of which is closed on top of the insulating backfill.
• Reduction of heat-insulating thickness... Heat-insulating natural backfill must be turned frequently in order to avoid pressing, it must be dried in order to exclude wetting and the associated decrease in insulating properties.
• Incoherence... During the maintenance of the insulation and the device within the attic of the drafts necessary for drying, some of the material can be corny to take out. This means that you need to constantly replenish the stock. This disadvantage can be overcome with bales.
• Rotting tendency... The ability to quickly and easily absorb moisture can lead to rot, especially if neglected by regular maintenance. Antiseptics used for wood processing are suitable as a prophylactic agent.
• Attractiveness for rodents... In dry and warm strings of straw, moss, hay, rats and mice live freely, to scare them away, they will have to purchase specialized means at SES.

There are two more popular types of folk thermal insulation, these are the soil layer and crumpled clay. They do not burn or attract mice.

They are not afraid of moisture and weathered dry plants drafts. But there is a serious drawback - considerable weight, because of which it is necessary to strengthen the overlap.

Soil - a layer of soil in contact with the day surface, enriched with waste products of representatives of flora and fauna, for ease of mixing with any of the above folk heat insulators. It is simply scattered over the ceiling, like expanded clay.

Clay is diluted in containers with water to the consistency of sour cream, chopped straw or shavings are added to it and poured onto the overlap with a layer of 10-15 cm. After the poured composition has hardened, the cracks are closed with softened clay.

Ceiling side insulation technology

If, for technical reasons, insulation from the side of the cold attic is not possible, then thermal insulation systems are installed from the side of the room, i.e. put on the ceiling. This option is more difficult to implement, but sometimes it is the only possible one.

In the case of thermal insulation of ceilings from the ceiling side, the following are used:

• Styrofoam. Non-extruded expanded polystyrene panels are easily glued to the pre-aligned ceiling. Silicone sealant or polyurethane foam is introduced into the gaps between the elements, the excess of which should be removed immediately.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. They are also glued. Most often, Penoplex is used with a mounting edge, which eliminates the likelihood of cold bridges. The thickness of the insulation can be accurately calculated according to the climatic data of the area and the material with the appropriate characteristics can be selected.
• Bung. The simplest option is a sheet cork backing, used as a flooring for underfloor heating. Panels glued to the ceiling are also suitable, but the cost of the insulation system will ultimately be much more expensive.

It is, of course, much more difficult and more difficult to glue while holding the material over the canopy than to fill it from above. In addition, these options are not applicable without external decoration. They just need to be decorated.

The masking of the ceiling insulation system is carried out by installing frame structures: stretch and rack ceilings. For their installation, a fixing profile is installed around the perimeter of the room, located below the glued insulation by at least 1-2 cm.

If it is planned to install ceiling lamps and exhaust ventilation ducts, then the distance between the plane of the decorative ceiling and the thermal insulation system is further increased. As a result, an unnecessarily low, as if “pressing” ceiling may turn out, which negatively affects the interior picture and the well-being of the home owners.

The options actively used in practice also include single- and multi-level structures made of drywall. The rigid GVL-option is a priority due to the fact that in the event of getting wet and peeling off the thermal insulation plate, it will freely hold the separated part.

In the field of the device of the insulation system from the inside of the room, heat-insulating plasters stand apart. Materials for their implementation have been developed relatively recently. The pioneers in their application were progressive industries: the military space complex, civil aircraft construction.

The composition of the insulating plaster applied to the ceiling contains tiny ceramic balls, which contain air. It is he who is the most effective insulator.

A valuable advantage of thermal insulating plasters is the ability to apply the thinnest layer of 1 mm, the effectiveness of which will be equal to that of a foam board 5 cm thick. The downside is the considerable cost and complexity of application, for which special equipment is required.

Video # 1. Correction of errors in the ceiling insulation device made by the former owner of the house:

Demonstration of the process of warming an attic floor with mineral wool:

The use of ecowool in the thermal insulation of the ceiling:

Competently executed thermal insulation of the ceiling will ensure ideal heat preservation, while creating conditions for the unhindered removal of household vapors and condensate outside the roof structure.

However, not only technologically accurate work is important, but also the correct selection of the insulation scheme and the material for its execution. We hope that our article will provide you with effective assistance in this matter.

Although a wooden house is warm in itself, the upper enclosing structure in it is a weak link, except that the attic is heated, but this is extremely rare. Therefore, it is important to timely insulate the ceiling in a private house, which will help reduce heat costs and save on heating the home.

There are several options for thermal insulation of the ceiling. To determine the optimal insulation and the method of its installation, it is necessary to evaluate the pros and cons of each method, do you agree? We propose to sort out this issue in order.

In the article, we examined in detail the technologies for carrying out thermal insulation work using different types of insulation, identified the characteristics and operational features of the materials. In addition, they told when it is better to use external and when internal insulation of the ceiling, and gave advice on choosing an insulation layer.

At the place of installation of the insulation, all existing thermal insulation technologies are divided into two categories: internal and external.

Each of them has its own pros and cons. The first method is more economical, but you will have to sacrifice the useful volume of rooms. And in the case of external insulation, they usually reinforce the floor, and then arrange the floor covering of the attic.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling both in a wooden house and in any other house will not only retain heat, but also enhance sound insulation. Therefore, the sound of raindrops and the howling of the wind will not annoy the residents of the house. Will not allow insulation and the penetration of heated air inside when it's hot outside

Insulation outside is a risk of damage from any mechanical stress, therefore additional protection is needed. In this case, one cannot do without steam and waterproofing, which will also entail an increase in the cost of the insulating layer.

The best materials for outdoor insulation

The industry produces a wide range of heaters. Each of them has its own properties, positive and not quite qualities. First of all, environmental friendliness is important - they should not harm health.

In addition to using traditional technology of insulation, you can use a more progressive and practical solution -. Such a system can completely replace standard heating or become an effective addition to it.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Interesting ideas for ceiling insulation:

Nuances of insulation of a ceiling from a bar:

If there is no residential or insulated attic in a wooden house, you cannot do without ceiling insulation. The ideal case is the insulation of the floor during the construction process.

Installation of an insulating layer in an already built house is somewhat more difficult to carry out, but still possible. It is important to follow the technology and take into account the features of the selected heat insulator.

An uncomfortable temperature in the rooms, with "astronomical" figures in receipts for gas, is a sure sign of poor thermal insulation of a private house, in particular, the ceiling. For the most part through it, obeying all the laws of physics, heated air seeps into the atmosphere. Modern ones make it easy to prevent this, but due to various circumstances, it is not always possible to carry out work from the attic side. and strike a balance between efficiency, cost and sustainability, read below.

Materials for interior work: which is better to use

Most often, insulation of the ceiling from the attic is impossible due to the low roof slope or too thin beams. Often the reason is the basic lack of access. In this case, you need to mount the insulation inside the room. This complicates the work, increases their cost. We have to think about the availability, make a new "clean" ceiling. The impossibility of using the most common, cheap, easy-to-use thermal insulation materials, such as expanded clay and sawdust.

Not every material is suitable for interior work. The main condition is compliance with the following requirements:

• high fire resistance;
• environmental friendliness, at room temperature the material should not emit substances harmful to humans;
• durability, resistance to fungus;
• adequate price;
• sufficient efficiency with a minimum thickness, which is especially critical at low ceilings;
• low specific gravity, so as not to load wooden floor structures.

Of course, there is no insulation that would fit without restrictions under the listed conditions, but there are materials that have a good average balance of parameters, which allows them to be used to insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof.

First of all, these are:

• styrofoam;
• polyethylene foam;
• mineral wool.

The quality of the materials used directly depends on how effective and durable it will be. Accordingly, this issue requires detailed consideration.

Properties, advantages and disadvantages of materials

The suitability of the insulation is determined for each case individually and depends on the material from which the ceiling is made, its height, and the financial position of the owner. In "severe" cases, you have to reckon with the interior of the house and even with the presence of rodents. Studying the features of each of the heaters, their positive and negative sides will help speed up the choice, make it correct.

Mineral wool

The most popular and widespread material. It was used even during the Soviet Union, however, it was known as "glass wool". The current name precisely defines the composition of the insulation. Fibers are now made not only from glass, but also from slags and some rocks, such as basalt, that is, only non-combustible substances are used.

Millions of mineral fibers stick together and form insulation, which, depending on the purpose, is produced in rolls, plates and cylinders, which makes it possible to economically work with surfaces of various configurations. Due to the low specific weight (from 20 kg / m3), the ceiling is insulated with mineral wool, without the risk of overloading the wooden floors. Therefore, if necessary, it is used even in dilapidated buildings.

These are not all advantages, mineral wool has a number of other advantages:

1. Low thermal conductivity.
2. Resistant to chemical compounds.
3. Thanks to its porous structure, it allows air movement, which prevents condensation.
4. Steam does not settle on the cotton wool, which means it does not make it wet.
5. The insulation does not burn, does not form smoke when heated, does not emit harmful substances.
6. An excellent sound insulator, which is important if there are neighbors above.
7. Long service life.

True, the advantages of the material do not seem significant against the background of the following disadvantages.

1. Minvata is afraid of moisture, due to the ingress of large masses of water on it, its insulating properties are lost. Therefore, additional ones are needed.
2. Dustiness. Small fibers can constantly penetrate into the room through the smallest cracks and holes.
3. It is unproven that the resin used to bond the fibers releases harmful compounds.

Nevertheless, mineral wool remains the most popular heat insulator, therefore, ceiling insulation will be considered on its example.

Lightweight, effective, easy to install material - an alternative option when it is impossible to use mineral wool. Insulation is produced in sheets of 1 × 1 m, 20-100 mm thick. This is practical, since it is possible to insulate the ceiling in the house at the lowest cost.

Polyfoam is often used indoors, despite a number of disadvantages:

1. Efficiency in work is possible only in the absence of a gap between the ceiling and the insulation, which excludes air circulation, and therefore leads to the appearance of condensation.
2. The foam is destroyed by rodents and microorganisms.
3. Flammable, gives off corrosive smoke.
4. Evaporates formaldehyde at room temperature.

Therefore, it is better to mount the foam from the side of the attic space.

Foamed polyethylene

Insulation is made by introducing a gas hydrocarbon mixture into a liquid material, followed by cooling. The result is a mass of closed, air-filled bubbles that serve as an insulating base.

Polyethylene foam has a number of undoubted advantages:

• efficiency;
• environmental friendliness;
• long service life without loss of qualities;
• resistant to fungus and rodents;
• hygroscopic;
• not complicated installation.

The main disadvantage is the flammability of polyethylene foam, and it ignites at a relatively low temperature - 100 C. Combustion is accompanied by the release of acrid smoke. In addition, polyethylene foam is not used in all rooms, since the ceiling can be insulated from the inside only if it is rather high. The reason is that for the insulation to work effectively, it is necessary to provide, on both sides of it, an air gap of 2 - 3 cm. This, given the thickness of the insulation and the crate, will significantly "underestimate" the room. However, in the case when it is assumed, insulation with polyethylene foam is quite possible. A bonus to this will be excellent sound insulation, especially if the floors are made of concrete.

The material resembles polystyrene with properties and structure, only with a denser structure, since the manufacturing technology is associated with high pressure. Thanks to this, the insulation turned out to be so strong that it is usually used as a basis for a warm floor. But, sometimes it is also used as a ceiling insulation for a private house. After installation, the plaster is applied directly to the expanded polystyrene, which is one of the main advantages.

True, the latter is true only for the insulation of unheated rooms. The fact is that polystyrene foam should not be in direct contact with warm air, otherwise, on its cold side, condensation will inevitably form. This option is unacceptable, since the insulation is afraid of dampness and is destroyed from it. Therefore, it is necessary to close it with a vapor barrier, and on top with a decorative ceiling. Thus, the main advantage of expanded polystyrene is nullified.

There is another plus that can be decisive when choosing a material for internal insulation of a private house - environmental friendliness. It is believed that extruded polystyrene foam, at room temperature, is absolutely safe, unlike foam.

Not without disadvantages:

• flammability;
• afraid of direct sunlight;
• destroyed by rodents and insects, despite the fact that manufacturers claim otherwise;
• at temperatures above 75 degrees, it emits substances harmful to humans, therefore it is not used for warming baths.

This is all about the quality of materials, now about how to insulate the ceiling yourself.

Sequence of work

As already noted, the installation technology will be considered using the example of mineral wool. However, the process, with minor adjustments, is suitable for other thermal insulation materials. The difference is only in some details, the main stages of work remain unchanged.

Installing the frame

This is the main element of the entire structure, which determines its durability and aesthetics. You can create a crate from wooden bars or a metal profile. In this case, everything depends on the decorative ceiling. Actually, it is for him that the crate is made. If it is supposed to mount drywall as a "final ceiling", then it is definitely necessary to use a profile. The fact is that the tree is strongly deformed when it dries, and there is no fastener that could withstand this. Cracking of the seams between the sheets, "slipping" through them of the caps of the screws.

Lining, MDF and OSB, in this regard, are more unpretentious and are attached directly to the wooden crate, which is pre-treated with an antiseptic.

In any case, regardless of the material chosen, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The surface of the ceiling is cleaned from crumbling plaster in compliance with safety regulations, chandeliers and lamps are dismantled.
2. At the same distance from each other, equal to the width of the insulation, wooden bars or a profile are attached to the ceiling. There are several nuances to consider here. The slats can be attached directly to the ceiling, making work much easier. Moreover, their thickness should be the same as that of the insulation layer. To install the profiles, you need special hangers that are fixed to the ceiling, and the profile is screwed to them.
3. Hanging parts will have to be installed often, since the drywall sheets are heavy. If the plane is made of concrete, special dowels must be used. A gap must be left between the profile and the ceiling in order to later slip the insulation there. Otherwise, in this place, "poles of cold" will turn out.

When all the profiles are installed, the crate can be considered complete.

Installation of insulation

First, the inner layer of the vapor barrier is laid. You can fix it to the ceiling in any convenient way, for example, with glue or staples. Insulation is laid in the intervals between the profiles. When it comes to mineral wool, then you should take care of the means of protection for the eyes and respiratory organs. Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top. Now you can move on to finishing.

Ceiling insulation can save up to 10% of heating bills. You just need to choose the right material. The main characteristics of each of them are now known. The best way to insulate the ceiling should be decided by the owner of the house, based on analysis and in accordance with his capabilities.

Video

For your attention a thematic video:

Ceiling insulation must be done in any private houses or apartments located on the upper floors. According to the laws of physics, warm air always rises up, and cold air rushes down. If there are cracks in the ceiling, then warm air masses will evaporate, the room will always be cold. In order not to “heat the street”, it is recommended to take seriously the issues of ceiling insulation.

Features:

It happens that it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from the outside in an apartment in a multi-storey building. The only option in this case is to carry out installation work indoors. To understand the features of insulation in a private house from the inside, you should first consider the structure of the insulation and the amount of work required. It is necessary to combine the following layers in sequence:

• external waterproofing;
• lathing for insulation fasteners;
• thermal insulation;
• finishing of the upper surfaces.

How to insulate?

In order to insulate a room inside, several types of materials are used. Most often, a special heat-insulating material is used, which is called glassine. It has the following advantages:

• economically beneficial;
• practical;
• resistant to temperature extremes;
• well resistant to moisture.

Heaters with similar characteristics are also popular. These include such as:

• nenofol;
• expanded polystyrene;
• isolon;
• penoplex;
• technical wool;
• bung.

photos

PVC film is most often used as waterproofing, which reliably protects against leaks. Its service life is several decades. It is profitable to use the film, because it is inexpensive.

The PVC film should be overlapped, this is done so that condensation does not penetrate the surface of the supporting structures. The inner layer of waterproofing is glued, the seams are sealed with tape, they must be tight.

Drywall

Drywall is good in that it provides a perfectly flat surface without seams, you can use it to make any kind of ceiling. To work with drywall, two types of battens are used, such as:

• made of wood - it is easier to work with such material, it costs less;
• from galvanized profile - is more durable, does not deteriorate under the influence of temperature changes, is not affected by mold or mildew.

Technical wool

Ceiling insulation in a private household using technical wool is performed in the following way:

• using a stapler, a PVC film is mounted to the ceiling, which will reliably protect against moisture ingress on the plates;
• the lathing is stuffed from wooden bars in increments of 40-50 cm. The size of the bar must correspond to the thickness of the thermal plates, that is, have 5 cm;
• slabs of technical wool are laid, they are fastened with special mounting rails. This design is reliable and simple, not subject to deformation.

Mineral wool has several important characteristics.

• Low thermal conductivity - 0.036 W / (m * K), a layer of no more than 10 cm is sufficient for insulation, which corresponds to the usual thickness of the bearing beams.
• The material has increased vapor permeability, for 50 kg of weight per cubic meter, the coefficient is 0.7 mg / (m * h * Pa). This figure is higher than that of wood.
• Slight hygroscopicity, that is, upon contact with liquid, the material will absorb no more than 2% of moisture from the total volume.
• Mineral wool slabs have a high fire safety. Such insulation is non-flammable, does not contribute to the spread of fire.
• Minvata has good sound insulation characteristics, is able to effectively trap sound waves of very different frequencies. It is especially beneficial to use basalt insulation, because it does not deform and has a long service life. One package is enough to handle about twenty square meters.
• The material is not susceptible to the harmful effects of fungus or mold, has antiseptic properties.
• The porous material, which has a low specific weight, cannot be burdensome for the supporting structures, which contributes to a long service life.

Condensation has a detrimental effect on technical wool, it inevitably loses its useful properties. PVC boards are not afraid of moisture, they are not subject to erosion or the spread of fungus. The advantages of mineral wool are that it is not afraid of moisture, does not damp. Mineral wool is cheaper than PVC plates, does not contain toxins, foam plates emit harmful components.

It is worth remembering that when working with mineral wool, be sure to use gloves and glasses so that microparticles do not get into the eyes or on the skin of the hands.

Execution of works

The easiest to install from the inside of the room is a basalt insulation. It is dense and easy to process. In order to fix it, no special equipment or any special mechanisms are required. Plywood is suitable for hemming floor beams. With this material, it is good to hem supporting structures that are attached from below. They can support the insulation slabs that are placed between the beams.

The most commonly used plywood is 1 cm thick, so it is the most popular FC brand. There are frequent cases when FSF plywood is also used. It “phonites” less with formaldehydes. In addition to plywood, materials such as GKL, KVL and lining are also used. Plywood is mounted as follows:

• the sheet is cut to the required dimensions;
• a gap of about 2–3 mm is left between the wall and plywood;
• with the help of self-tapping screws, prepared elements are fixed;
• the distance between the screws is approximately 15–25 cm.

They also use permanent polyurethane glue, which is sold in large cylinders. This material is good in that, with its correct application, it is not required to use expensive polyurethane foam. It is good to seal joints with such material in thermal insulation, for example, in the attic. If the space in the attic is residential, then tongue-and-groove boards will be required. If the room has a technical purpose, then it is more correct to use plywood.

A special primer for wood must be present without fail, because it is used to work out beams, floors and lathing. A special primer reliably protects wooden structures from the action of microorganisms and harmful insects.

To fix communications on the ceiling, use a plastic or wooden box. This work is easy to do with your own hands. In recent years, PVC foam cylinders have also been increasingly used. Sometimes the boxes are also lined with mineral wool, which reduces the level of fire hazard, this creates additional noise insulation.

Installation of insulation in the attic takes place in such a way as:

• prepared thermal slabs made of technical wool are laid on a horizontal surface, which is laid with a waterproofing film;
• in order for the plates to fall into place, they must be prepared in advance;
• the task of fitting thermal plates is important, since the gap between the material must be minimal;
• quite often the space between the plates is filled with polyurethane foam, which guarantees the absence of "cold bridges".

The main materials used by homeowners for insulation are the following:

• glass wool;
• basalt slabs;
• stony;
• polypropylene in rolls;
• foam plates;
• polyplex;
• polystyrene;
• expanded clay.

And also the so-called sawdust is often used. These are wood shavings that are mixed with lime, cement mixture or clay. This process is time consuming and laborious. Therefore, it is resorted to only in cases where a large amount of such wood waste is present.

The most popular are PVC plates. They can be successfully applied both inside and outside. The gable roof is insulated primarily from the inside, and massive load-bearing beams are also processed, in the cold season they can be a significant source of cold.