This is the second parameter in wood construction, which affects how warm the house will be or how durable the log house is. Of course, the diameter of the log (forest) also significantly affects the cost of the log house due to the price of the tree.

If you have a question about which diameter to choose, our answer is simple, the larger the diameter, the better!

Pluses of large diameter.

• When using large diameter logs for felling, fewer logs will be used than in a log house with a smaller diameter of the same height. As an example, let's take a log with a diameter of 20 and 30 centimeters with a difference of 10 cm. The number of logs in a log house can differ by 50%.
• Reducing the number of joints of locks and bowls.
• The width of the groove will increase and, as a result, the thermal conductivity between.
• Displacement of the border of "freezing" of the log from the increase in the thickness of the walls.
• Choosing a diameter of 240 millimeters over the years after shrinkage and shrinkage, this diameter can reduce to 220.
• Increased service life of the lower rims. Sometimes, to solve this problem, the first crowns are cut from larch or a lining board is used.

Which diameter should you choose?

For ease of perception, we give the diameters of the log and the scope of its application in the construction of log cabins.

• Timber up to 18 cm. Logs of small diameter less than 18 are considered unsuitable for construction and are used only for the construction of arbors, outbuildings or non-residential buildings. It is also possible to cut from this diameter budget bath size 3 * 3
• 18-19-20-22 cm. The smallest possible diameter. Cutters often call it "bannik" - it is simple, and a budget option for the manufacture of log cabins chopped into a paw or for country houses from rounded logs. Logs from 20 cm are used for cutting into a bowl.
• 23-24-25-26-28cm. The best option for building a house permanent residence not requiring additional insulation. It is worth noting because of its specificity, the Canadian felling is possible from a diameter of 24 due to the peculiarity of the bowl.
• 30-32-40. Perfect option, for this diameter we give the highest mark.
• The maximum size of 40-50 and more, according to experience, this diameter is used mainly in exclusive and elite log cabins and as a design solution... For felling in this diameter, mainly large cedar and larch forest is used.

I would like to note that these characteristics are more relevant for houses than for baths.

Photo of diameters in a log house.

Photos of log cabins 18 cm.

Photos of log cabins 18-22 cm.

Photos of log cabins 23-28 cm.

Photos of log cabins 30-35-40 cm.

A house or a bathhouse made of rounded logs (for readers interested in a timber for a bathhouse) is a widespread practice, to the point that you may not know anything about the subject at all, order a construction company on a turnkey basis and get the finished result. But you would hardly read our articles if everything suited you in this version.

And we ourselves believe that a good owner will definitely consider it necessary to delve into the subject, learn more about the material itself - which log is better for a bath, what size, diameter, how they differ, what properties they have. This knowledge is also useful in order to understand what the construction is from and to control some parameters or processes. And after that too - the blockhouse is not to say that it is capricious, but it still requires care.

So let's figure it out, and along the way, you see, we will dispel some myths.

Which is better

I would like to start with considering wood. And not immediately by breed, but so far only with conventional wisdom, what the best wood will be the one that was harvested in winter.

IMPORTANT! Antiseptics should be distinguished for internal and external work, and not to be confused with each other. It is worth processing the log after laying, and with the part that will not be available in the future, they do this - not a tree, but a jute gasket (for example) is impregnated with an antiseptic.

What breeds are suitable for a log house

As already mentioned, for the most part these will be conifers breeds. You will most often find them on the market and in the proposals of construction companies.

Of course, there is a lot of taiga in Russia, but the main reason will still be strength and disinclination to rot due to resins... And, of course, straightness of trunks - it is higher in conifers than in deciduous ones. All this applies not only to the aforementioned cheap pine and spruce, but also to more expensive species - larch and cedar. You may also be offered a fir.

Of deciduous we would call oak, birch, aspen, alder and linden. But only it has sufficient strength and resistance to external influences. And it's very expensive.

Since we are talking about a bath, where heat softens the resin of conifers and makes it flow to the surface, there are two options: either partially use deciduous trees, to build a steam room, or sheathe a steam room from coniferous from deciduous.

Spruce has less resin and is lighter than pine. Larch and are noble breeds. Larch is not afraid of water, only it becomes stronger from it.

BTW! You should not delude yourself about the cedar - this is not at all the tree from which King Solomon built. Here you will find not Lebanese cedar, but Russian ... cedar pine. Here she is what we call "cedar".

Whom to choose? Focus on budget. If it allows - take larch, if not, then it will go. Although ... I would like to advise you not to trust the myths too much - under unfavorable conditions, larch may well rot, and under favorable conditions, it can stand for decades.

And it is worth warning that rounded log, into which the cone-shaped trunks turn, over time can present many unpleasant surprises. Especially from the same larch. If a log is taken atmospheric drying, then it quite often begins to lead over time. It can curl, bend, or just go deep cracks.

This can only be avoided if you take trunks that have been exposed to heat treatment. It is of two types - common and chamber. In the first case, uniform shrinkage is achieved, but with the preservation of the resin.

The second lasts much longer, and the output is wood with evaporated resin, which does not give no shrinkage, no torsional deformation, no buckling, no cracking... All this is extremely valuable, but only the price of such wood is too high.

Dimensions, diameter

Before we name the dimensions of the log for the bath, let's briefly go through what we know about the trunks. First, they tend to thin closer to the crown. Consequently, the upper diameter will be less than the lower saw cut diameter.

And for even laying cylindrical rather than tapered. Therefore, of the three types of barrel processing - cylindering, planing and scraping, We get the maximum evenness only in the first case, the minimum in the third, and the second - something in between.

In this case, the cylindering is given cheaper of all, since it is produced on machines, and the rest is associated with manual labor... Manual labor is more expensive than machine labor. But is a rounded log ideal for use?

There is nothing wrong with the operation itself, and it gives it a shape that is ideal for construction.

IMPORTANT only so that the wood itself is free from defects and is properly dried. In this case, everything will be fine.

Planed the option has one nuance: after all, when laying logs in the wall, you should adhere to the gost rule, according to which for each running meter a taper of 1 cm is allowed. (Let us explain: taper is a change in diameter.)

Have scraped off there is no need to wait for the option of complying with GOST on the concordance. And all the flaws remain there - changes in thickness are possible in places where branches grow, and the curvature of the trunk is not eliminated.

It is clear that the first and second options are preferred, but not the third.

Now about uniformity logs. There is also a rule about her:

ATTENTION! The permissible difference in the diameters of the crowns used in the construction should not exceed 30 mm.

That is, it does not matter whether your diameters are large or small, the main thing is that they do not differ much from each other. Otherwise strength design will be in question.

As for the dimensions, the linear dimensions depend on the project and from climatic conditions terrainwhere the bathhouse will be. You should also take into account that seasonality its use - thinner logs will do for a summer bathhouse than for an all-season one.

If the task is to do very light summer building - you need to take material with a diameter up to 18 cm... And it will also come in handy in all-season baths for creating partitions.

More solid summer (!) the bath can be supplied from a log with a diameter 18-22 cm.

For all-season bath diameters are suitable from 22 to 28 cm... Large numbers are applicable where it comes to objects of a large area or climatic zones with very low temperatures, where logs can be up to 36 cm in diameter (at -45 degrees, that's it).

How many pieces do you need

There is nothing difficult in the task of calculating how many logs you need for a bath. Let's describe the solution in stages:

1. We look at the plan () and write down the lengths of all walls. If you take a smaller diameter on the partition, then count the partitions separately.
2. Add up the lengths of the walls. The resulting figure is the total length of one conventional crown.
3. Decide what diameter the logs will be.
4. The height of the bath is included in the project. Divide the height by the diameter of one crown. The resulting figure is the number of crowns.
5. We multiply the length of the conditional crown by the number of crowns. We get the total length of all logs.
6. The length of one standard rounded log is 6 meters. We divide the resulting length of all logs by the length of one log. The final figure is the amount of material to be bought.
7. Gables are counted in the same way.

Bath of large and huge logs

Baths made of large and huge logs, we would refer to design projects. Because there is clearly not so much a building need as aesthetic preference... The owner of such a bath clearly likes fabulous, epic times when heroes walked the earth 🙂 And indeed the building will inspire just such feelings, even when it comes to the bath.

Note, our opinion is that this idea has little functional meaning and often arouses critical reviews, due to the inappropriate destruction of valuable ancient trees.

It would be nice if the project was done by a professional, because it is he who has to find the ideal ratio between the dimensions of the bath itself and the diameter of the logs. Because grotesque proportions are not dear to the eye.

The tree from which crowns with a diameter of more than 30 cm are made should grow for three hundred years, no less. Such logs for the bath must be selected piece, sometimes designers deliberately use barrels without cylindering - this enhances the feeling of antiquity and fabulousness. However, laying them in a log house will require great skill from the builders. In most cases, the choice is between cedar and larch.

In general, this is a wonderful and expensive idea, which should be implemented on a large plot with a good landscape design... And better, maybe not at all.

Lower crown

Of course, in one article, the specifics of wooden construction are unlikely to be at least somehow revealed, but the fact that the lower log in the bath differs from the subsequent logs is worth mentioning.

• First, several more all other crowns in the frame.
• Secondly, it does not completely round shape in section. To ensure full adherence to the foundation, it is cut from the bottom edging, whose width should not be less 15-20 cm... The second edging is cut from the inside of the room and has the same dimensions.

Outside, the crown is desirable to protect ebb, which will not allow moisture precipitation to fall on it.

Processing inside the bath

The log house needs protection from all sides, but from the outside it is simpler, more precisely, there simply are no restrictions that operate inside, since we are talking about a bath. The fact is that the compounds that should be used for treatment are often poisonous, especially with regard to antiseptic impregnations. And the bath is hot and humid, so the substances with which the logs are soaked will be released into the air that you breathe, which surrounds your skin.

Therefore, now we will only say about the permissible processing of logs inside the bath. However, it will differ depending on the premises. So for the dressing room or hallway there are no restrictions on the use of toxic antiseptics. The rest room can also be treated with them.

TIP! Choosing an antiseptic for internal works, check with the seller or Google that we are talking about the bath.

IN washing you should use formulations that are not afraid of water, and most antiseptics are water-soluble.

IN steam room you can use bleach based on bleach - it will both brighten the surface of the wood and serve. You can use the steam room only after the chlorine smell disappears.

In the future, you can make a simple moisture protection, because mold settles on damp wood. For moisture protection, use compositions based on oil and / or wax, or Finnish acrylic varnishes for the sauna, to which they add antiseptics acceptable for the steam room.

Seams can be filled wood sealant, and the very surface of the logs is simply grind, to bring out a beautiful "moire" texture. Painting is acceptable almost everywhere, but in the steam room it is worth using only those paints that are intended for it. In the washroom, paints suitable for bathrooms will work. About paints for a bath with us.

How to caulk

The idea of \u200b\u200bcaulking a sauna from logs suggests that not all sauna owners are familiar with modern means of sealing joints (or do not consider them the best). Traditional the methods, of course, are time-tested, but they are very laborious and require periodic labor-intensive updating, since the log house is constantly slowly changing its dimensions during the first 20 years of life.

Concerning materials, it is usually used for caulking moss, tow, jute and linen. However, below we provide a link to a video of a master who categorically does not advise caulking with jute, because it picks up moisture well. He considers linen to be the optimal material. Moss is traditional, but not widespread everywhere.

Tow comes in different qualities. The one that is worse has all kinds of straw inclusions. Masters do not recommend using it either, because some of it will crumble over time. Good quality linseed tow is an excellent material for caulking.

Flax - a quilted cloth, somewhat reminiscent of jute, but different from it in quality. Convenient for work and is not inferior to tow in terms of thermal insulation properties.

/ How to choose the diameter of a log for a bath?

How to choose the diameter of a log for a bath?

A real Russian bathhouse was built of wood, which has not lost its relevance in modern conditions... High environmental friendliness, healthy indoor climate, excellent appearance are the main advantages of such projects. In order for the bath to warm up well and retain heat for a long time, to be comfortable, functional and inexpensive, it is necessary to carefully consider the choice of building materials, especially the size and diameter of the logs.

Factors influencing the choice of the diameter of the logs for the bath

The production of a log house for a bath involves cutting a groove in each log. If you make it too deep, the consumption of material and the number of crowns will increase. With shallow grooves, there is a risk of a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics. Therefore, when choosing wood and calculating the cutting depth, the following criteria are taken into account:

• Temperature in the region of installation of the structure in winter time... Depending on the place of installation, in the cold season, the temperature varies from -10 to -45 degrees, therefore the diameter of the log can be from 180 to 360 mm. The most demanded is wood with a section from 200 to 250 mm.
• When using the bath only in summer, in spring and autumn, the thickness of the logs can be reduced. To heat and maintain the optimum temperature, a thickness of 180 mm is enough.
• The size of the building also affects the choice of material. The larger the bath is planned, if available attic floor rest rooms, terraces, the diameter of the material increases.
• Humidity building material also affects the choice. For naturally dried logs harvested in summer, shrinkage can be up to 150 mm. Baths made of rounded logs will decrease in height by no more than 30 mm. The thickness of the wood is calculated accordingly.

When harvesting wood and cutting a groove, certain rules also apply. The groove width varies from 60 to 70% of the diameter of the building material. Each crown is lifted by 75% of the diameter, respectively, the groove depth should be 25%.

Requirements for wood for the construction of baths

In order to get a better quality log house for a bathhouse, winter wood is purchased, with moisture indicators at the level of 10-12%. A good option will be the use of rounded material that does not shrink. When calculating the diameter, it is advisable to take into account the requirements of regulatory documents. Determining the cross-section of logs at different conditions operation:

• For year-round use, the thickness of the timber varies from 240 to 360 mm when installed in regions with a temperate and cold climate.
• The construction and operation of baths with winter temperatures below -30 degrees will be possible using logs of 250 mm or more.
• Installation of a small building used in the warm season is made of material with a cross section of 180-240 mm.

The use of these standards allows you to get a high-quality design and not overpay for the material. If desired, the dimension of the logs can be increased, achieving an attractive appearance and design. But it is not recommended to build a bathhouse from a forest whose thickness is less than the minimum permissible. To warm up indoor spaces you will have to spend a lot of energy, and heat leakage will negatively affect the quality of bath procedures.

Wood is one of the most common building materials on earth, with a long history. Houses, baths, churches are built from wood, elite cottages and temporary buildings are being erected. The ubiquity and availability of wood provide this material with increased attractiveness in the eyes of developers.

Our portal has already told in detail, and. We continue the cycle of articles we have begun.

So, from our material you will learn:

• How to build a warm and comfortable log.
• How to calculate the required wall thickness.
• What features you need to pay attention to when choosing the width of the groove.
• What are the types of felling.
• What nuances you need to know before starting construction log house.

Calculation of the wall thickness of the log house and the diameter of the log

Will it be warm in a wooden house if the diameter of the logs is 25, 30, 35 and more cm. This is one of the main questions that any developer who wants to build a house from debarked or rounded logs should ask themselves. Agree that it is unreasonable if later it turns out that the thickness of the walls is not enough to comfortably survive the harsh winter. Insulating the house from the outside or from the inside is also not an option: all the aesthetics of the log will disappear. It remains to intensively heat the log house and increase energy costs or calculate in advance the sufficient thickness of the walls in relation to the region of residence.

In one of our previous articles, we have already told in detail for a stone house. At first glance, it seems that it is easy to make a calculation for a log house - you need to find out the required normalized thermal resistance of the walls (R) of your region of residence. To do this, we find this data on the Internet. For example, for simplified calculation (for Moscow and the Moscow region) we take R \u003d 3.0 (m2 * ° С) / W.

Now we need to find out the actual value of the thermal resistance of a wall made of a log of a certain diameter. Then we will be able to find out (based on the calculation) whether the heat transfer resistance complies with the standards. To do this, you need to use the following formula:

R \u003d d / λ, where:

d is the thickness of the material;

λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material W / (m · ° C).

This is where the first pitfall lies. The thermal conductivity coefficient of wood (λ) is presented in the following table:

As you can see, it contains three values. Which one to take, and what do “normal” and “wet” conditions mean?

Hermes-sz FORUMHOUSE user

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of a material (including insulation) largely depends on its moisture content. And the operating humidity of the material depends on the climatic zone and the mode of use of the room.

For example, the thermal conductivity of pine and spruce (in a dry state) across the fibers (thermal energy from a wooden house goes out across the log ) is 0.09 W / (m · ° C). Under normal operating conditions (A) and during operation in a humid zone (B), the thermal conductivity of the material increases and is 0.14-0.18 W / (m · ° C).

If the material is waterlogged, its coefficient of thermal conductivity increases, and the thermal resistance of the structure decreases. Therefore, for an approximate calculation, take the following value: wall material - pine, material thermal conductivity coefficient (average value under normal operating conditions) - 0.15 W / (m · ° C).

Most often, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of materials and heaters is indicated in a dry state, i.e. obtained in laboratory tests that differ from actual operating conditions. You need to remember this when making an independent calculation.

So, we figured out the thermal conductivity of the tree. It remains to choose the thickness of the wall for which you want to make the calculation. And here lies the second pitfall. The logs are stacked on top of each other, i.e. there is a groove. Moreover, depending on the diameter of the log (D), customer requirements, the width of the groove (H) changes, and hence the actual width of this node in relation to the thickness of the log. This relationship is shown in the following figure.

It can be seen that with the same diameter of logs, depending on design features of the junction of the logs, the width of the groove may vary. Therefore, it is impossible to simply substitute the thickness of the selected log into the above formula. You need a common denominator that you can use to calculate. To solve this problem, we will use the experience of the user of our portal with the nickname zaletchik.

zaletchik FORUMHOUSE user

I want to live in a log house. There is no gas on the site, and is not expected. Region of residence - Moscow region. This means that the issue of reducing heating costs is acute. I am going to heat the house with a diesel-fueled boiler. These input data forced me to study the thermophysical properties of a log house.

First zaletchik calculated thermal characteristics by calculating the average value of the thickness of the building envelope. This approach was not entirely correct, since heat loss was considered directly proportional to the thickness of the wall. As a result of brainstorming and communication with FORUMHOUSE users, zaletchik made a more correct calculation.

zaletchik

To correctly calculate the thermal conductivity of the walls of a log house, I calculated the thickness of a log frame made of a bar with the same thermal insulation properties as a log frame of a certain diameter (D).

Leaving the details of the calculations outside the scope of the article, which can be found in the topic, we will immediately proceed to the obtained coefficients that we need for calculation.

For different values \u200b\u200bof ε (H / D the ratio of the groove thickness to the diameter of the log) the corresponding values \u200b\u200bof μ (Heff * D the ratio of the thickness of the bar to the diameter of the loghaving the same heat-conducting properties). The results are tabulated.

For clarity, consider the following example. Let's say the diameter of the log used in the construction of a log house is 45 cm. The groove width is 23 cm. Hence: ε \u003d 23/45 \u003d 0.5. Now we find in the table the value of μ corresponding to the obtained figure. This is 0.83. Next, we find the thickness of the wall, folded from a bar, in relation to the diameter of the logs, having the same heat-conducting properties: 0.83 * 45 \u003d 37.4 cm.Translate to meters - 0.374 m.

R \u003d d / λ, where:

d is the thickness of the material;

λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material W / (m · ° C). In our version, pine logs are 0.15 W / (m · ° C).

R \u003d 0.374 / 0.15 \u003d 2.49 (m2 * ° С) / W

Or, you can use the following formula:

R \u003d μD / λ, where:

μ - coefficient taken from the table above;

D is the diameter of the log in m;

λ is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood.

R \u003d 0.83 * 0.45 / 0.15 \u003d 2.49 (m2 * ° С) / W

One of the factors that determine the thermal resistance of the walls is the diameter of the log and the type of wood.

Earlier we indicated that for Moscow and the Moscow region R \u003d 3.0 (m2 * ° С) / W. Based on the result obtained, for walls made of pine logs, R \u003d 2.49 (m² * ° С) / W. Those. the wall does not reach the regulated value of thermal resistance. You can increase the diameter of the log or choose another wood - cedar pine. The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material (the diameter of the log and the width of the groove are left unchanged) is 0.095-0.10 W / (m · ° C).

We make a calculation.

R \u003d 0.83 * 0.45 / 0.10 \u003d 3.74 (m2 * ° С) / W

That is, the actual heat transfer resistance rate is overridden.

You can go the other way and use another formula to find out the required diameter of the log from the ratio: the width of the groove in half the diameter of the log.

D \u003d Rtp * λ / 0.83, where:

Rtp - regulated thermal resistance of the wall;

λ is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood;

We make a calculation for the pine.

D \u003d 3.0 * 0.15 / 0.83 \u003d 0.54 m.

Using this technique and "playing" with different values \u200b\u200b- changing the diameter of the log, the width of the groove, the wood - you can make an independent calculation and choose the optimal wall thickness of the log house.

zaletchik

My great-grandfather and grandfather were specialists in the construction of log cabins, logging and woodworking. From them I learned about the required groove width 1/2 ... 2/3 of the diameter of the log.

Also, the thermal efficiency of a log wall is influenced not only by the width of the groove, but also by the profile of the log - its cross-section: round or so-called. half-log, hewn from both sides - carriage. By cutting wood, we reduce the thermal resistance of the wall, because the log in the wall works with its entire section.

Of course the results this simplified calculation indicative. Most of the heat loss in the house takes place through windows, ventilation system, roof and foundation. Those. warm wooden house is a balanced system where all nodes work closely together and correspond to each other. It makes no sense to make walls from a log with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 meters and choose a wide groove, if the house is blown through the cracks, and the corners freeze.

Features of felling

To choose the best option cutting a log house and thereby making it warm, you need to understand what cutting options exist, and how they differ from each other. First, you need to define such concepts as a cut and a crown.

Hermes-sz

A log is a connection of various wooden parts of a log house with each other.

With the correct cut, the loads are evenly redistributed between the logs. To do this, all parts that are in contact must fit snugly together. Also, moisture should not accumulate in these places, which over time can cause wood to rot.

Crown- This is a blockhouse of a house, consisting of four logs, laid in a horizontal plane. At the corners, the crown is tied with a cut. In the process of building a house, the crowns are stacked on top of each other - a wall is obtained.

It should be remembered that the number of crowns depends on the diameter of the log and the width of the groove, which affects the consumption of material, and therefore on the final price and thermal properties of the log house. For example, to erect a wall 3 meters high from a log with a diameter of 25 cm and 40 cm, a different number of crowns will be required. When building a house from a log of a larger diameter, the number of cuts, locks, and interconnections decreases. Those. places that can subsequently be blown through, which will lead to heat loss.

When choosing a log for a log house, it is necessary to strike a balance between the diameter of the log, its cost (price for the material) and the price for working with such a log.

It is physically more difficult for craftsmen to work with a large diameter log. It may also require the use of special equipment - a crane.

In addition, when choosing a debarked log as a building material, remember about such a parameter as tapering off.

Displacement - the difference in the thickness of the log in the ratio of the diameter of the butt and the top. A debarked log that has not undergone machine processing, unlike a rounded log, cannot be completely flat. Its lower part (especially with a long log length) is always thicker than the top. To make the wall even, when building a chopped house, craftsmen, when laying crowns, alternate logs of different thickness.

The wheelhouse itself is usually divided into two types:

1. No residue (in the paw).
2. With the remainder (into the bowl).

No residue, or to a clean corner, assumes maximum use of the entire length of the material

With such a felling, a right angle is obtained, which increases the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe house and reduces the consumption of logs. But, based on practical experience, we can say that this type of corner is prone to freezing. To avoid this, even in the old days, the corners of a house cut down "in a paw" were sheathed with overhead boards, or, as an option, the house was subsequently lined with bricks. This prevented freezing and blowing corners.

Felling with the remainder - more costly, but also more heat-efficient option. Because the ends of the logs protrude in the corners of the house, this unit is more protected from blowing, rain flooding and freezing.

Leaving all the diversity outside the scope of this article different types felling, we will focus on the key features of the three main types of felling. It:

• Russian wheelhouse;
• Canadian wheelhouse;
• Norwegian cabin.

In our country, traditionally wooden houses build from round logs. A semicircular groove is made along the log. The corner lock is made by cutting into a "flash" in the bowl. The name comes from the word "obliy", i.e. round. The bowl can be up or down.

If the bowl is positioned downward (cutting the bowl "in a chill"), then such a connection is considered more moisture resistant, and the log is better preserved.

When choosing this type of felling, you need to take into account one nuance.

Hermes-sz

The main disadvantage of Russian felling is that the logs dry out unevenly along and across the fibers. As a result, after shrinkage, the logs do not fit tightly enough in the frame.

With a decrease in the diameter of the log, the shape of the connecting bowls changes. The bowls open and become oval from semicircular. Cracks appear. As a result, the log house has to be caulked again. In addition, open insulation is susceptible to adverse weather conditions. It is saturated with water, and the logs can begin to rot.

The Finnish-style frame is devoid of this drawback. The principle is the same as in the Russian wheelhouse, except that in this version the groove between the joints is made of a smaller radius (overlapping). Thus, the upper log rests on the lower one only at the edges (undercut).

As a result, when the logs shrink, the edges of the mezhventsov groove do not open, the logs sit tightly, there are no cracks, and the insulation is not affected by wind and rain.

Norwegian cabin. Traditionally, it is believed that a Norwegian log house is a log carriage, although the main difference is the type of castle.

Having decided on the wall material for the log house of the future bath - a rounded log, next you need to choose it suitable diameter.

Of course, each project is individual based on the needs and goals set, but the most frequent choice falls on log with a diameter of 200 mm.

There are good reasons for the popularity of this diameter:

• Adequate wall thickness to retain heat. Wall insulation is not necessary, more important is competent and careful caulking.
• This diameter "eats up" the inner space less. Even in the smallest in size, the bath will be spacious enough.
• Not the greatest weight and volume affect the cost of delivery, the speed of assembly of the log house, and lower costs for the foundation.
• Usually a bathhouse does not involve a daily heating, unlike a house for permanent residence. Each time in winter, it is necessary to heat the frozen log house, which is faster with a log of a smaller diameter.
• Again, unlike a house, a bathhouse does not need heat accumulation in the walls. The bathing process rarely takes more than a few hours. Heat accumulation in the bath is required not from the walls, but from the furnace device (fireclay bricks, stones).
• In most cases, the steam room and sinks are sheathed from the inside, so there is no point in a large diameter log.
• The 200th diameter already looks quite solid and solid, but it still saves the budget due to the smaller volume of the log in the frame.
• There are no perfectly straight and even trees in nature. If you adhere to strict requirements, it is not easy to select material for the production of large diameter logs without any flaws. On the other hand, there is plenty of material for smaller diameter logs, and therefore discounted prices are often set for it.

Price of a rounded log with a moon groove:

Attention! Especially for those who want a log house, but who are confused by the need to wait for significant shrinkage and shrinkage, we carry out the production of log cabins from our dry rounded logs chamber drying.

Diameter d, mm	Volume 1 r.m., m 3	Width heat groove S, mm	Width jute, mm	Working height h, mm	Cost for 1 m 3 (spruce, pine), rub
Free loading.						Are you offered cheaper?
180	0.0254	100	100	150	8900
200	0.0314	100	100	173	8900
220	0.038	110	110	191	9000
240	0.0452	120	120	208	9300
260	0.0531	130	130	225	9100
280	0.0615	140	140	243	9100
300	0.0707	150	150	260	9300
320	0.0804	160	160	277	9300

Round logs 3rd grade for only 6,500 rubles. per m 3. What is the difference between the 3rd grade?

Price of a rounded log with a Finnish groove (Finnish profile):

Diameter d, mm	Volume 1 r.m., m 3	Width thermal groove S, mm	Working height h, mm	Cost for 1 m 3 (spruce, pine), rub
Kiln drying, antiseptic, packaging and screed services on request. Free loading.					Are you offered cheaper?
200	0.0314	140	143	9300
220	0.038	152	159	9400
240	0.0452	174	165	9700
260	0.0531	186	182	9500
280	0.0615	186	209	9500

The price of a rounded log with a tongue-and-groove profile (thorn-groove):

Diameter d, mm	Volume 1 r.m., m 3	Width thermal groove S, mm	Working height h, mm	Cost for 1 m 3 (spruce, pine), rub
Kiln drying, antiseptic, packaging and screed services on request. Free loading.					Are you offered cheaper?
200	0.0314	100	173	9100
220	0.038	110	191	9200
240	0.0452	120	208	9500
260	0.0531	130	225	9300
280	0.0615	140	243	9300
300	0.0707	150	260	On request
320	0.0804	160	277	On request

* The price is given taking into account the cutting of a set of rounded logs for logging a house or a bath according to the project, with each position marked with a unique plastic tag.

** The price may change upward depending on the presence of a large amount of industrial waste, the presence of bowls at an angle of 45 ° and 60 °, the presence of a non-standard groove.