The better to insulate an old wooden house from the outside. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside so that it breathes. The better to insulate a wooden house outside: choose a material

It's good when the house is warm and comfortable, this sounds especially true for owners of private houses. The issue of house insulation is often of interest to residents countryside, most of them live in wooden buildings.

If you start to clean up the old wooden house, then you definitely need to do its insulation. There are also new houses made of timber, which for various reasons were not insulated during construction and the owners are forced to solve this problem after completion. construction works... With the implementation of thermal insulation, a natural question immediately arises, which material to use and how the insulation occurs wooden houses.

Log houses

Wooden buildings are considered the most environmentally friendly, in summer they are not hot, and in winter they are warm, there is always a normal level of humidity. Such buildings require a special approach and knowledge of operation, so that they always live as comfortably as possible, and heat loss is minimized.

Most of the heat in wooden houses goes through the roof up to about 40%, up to 35% can go through the windows, the walls take about 10%, and the floors 15%. As a result, it turns out that it takes a lot of money to heat a house in a cold period of time, but there is still no comfortable temperature for a family to live.

Correctly chosen means for performing thermal insulation normalize temperature regime in a dwelling, including a wooden one. A wide range of insulation materials makes it possible to insulate houses outside and inside. Professionals recommend, for greater efficiency, to make thermal insulation on the outside of the building so that you can live comfortably in it throughout the year.

Material selection

Most suitable option mineral wool can be called for insulating wooden houses, it has all the necessary qualities - lightweight, keeps heat well and has an affordable price. The lightness and elasticity of mineral wool also makes it easy to lay the material, it will not be affected by thermal deformations of the walls of the house, and "cold bridges" will not appear. After the walls of the house are insulated with mineral wool from the outside, they need to be sheathed with a board so that the building has a traditional appearance.

You can also insulate your home using expanded polystyrene, but it is not recommended for them to insulate wooden houses, such insulation is suitable for brick and concrete buildings. Wood must breathe, and polystyrene foam, despite its qualities, is poorly breathable. For this reason, condensation can build up, leading to the formation of mold and mildew.

A good option ecowool will be used for external insulation of wooden houses. The composition of modern insulation contains 80% cellulose and 20% antiseptic substances. They help protect the building from rodents and mold. This material is suitable for insulating all types of buildings.

There are also options for insulating wooden houses using fiberglass, expanded clay, basalt wool, sawdust-granules. Any of the selected materials must have the following characteristics:

The degree of vapor permeability of the insulation should be higher than that of wood or at the same level.
Increased moisture resistance in order to avoid further mold or mildew formation on the walls of the structure.
Good refractory properties, this is especially important for timber structures.
Breathable ability. The selected material must have this property, otherwise the wooden walls of the house will not be able to "breathe", and this will violate the entire microclimate inside the building.
Loose insulation structure. It will help to fit more tightly to the walls and will give a greater effect in the thermal insulation of the home.

How to insulate wooden houses?

The process of insulating wooden houses occurs in stages, first you need to decide on the material, and then proceed to the vapor barrier of the house. As a material, you can choose:

Aluminum foil.
A special vapor barrier film.
Roofing material.
Plastic wrap.

The vapor barrier will provide ventilation to the facade of the building under the film, which is especially important for the walls of a wooden building with a smooth board. On such a surface, it is necessary to fill wooden slats with an approximate thickness of 2.5 cm at a distance of 1 meter from each other in an upright position. A layer of vapor barrier is stuffed onto the prepared and fixed slats. In the upper and lower parts, it is necessary to make small holes for ventilation, with a diameter of about 20 mm. This will prevent moisture from accumulating under the film and will maximize the service life of the wooden structure. The vapor barrier is attached with nails or staples, and also with additional tape so that moisture does not get into the attachment points in the future.

The second stage is the construction of the frame. For this work, you will need boards 40-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide. Boards are stuffed vertically on an edge to the wall surface with a distance that will be a couple of centimeters less than the thickness of the insulation (mineral wool slabs). For this work, the board should not be thin, since the facing material will also be attached to it later.

The next step is to lay a layer of thermal insulation material. It is best to install mineral wool in two layers with a slab thickness of 50 mm. Insulation plates are installed between the frame boards very tightly to each other so that there are no gaps between them. The middle part of the slabs of the second layer of mineral wool should be located at the joints of the first layer of insulation so that gaps do not form. Despite the fact that mineral wool slabs are elastic and semi-rigid, they can hold on without sliding on the frame without fastening. It is better to fasten them with metal or plastic anchors for greater reliability.

The last layer is waterproofing, which must be laid on top of the insulation. The waterproofing film must be vapor permeable and not retain moisture on the wall and insulation. The waterproofing film must be nailed or stapled tightly to the wooden frame... Make the joints with an overlap of about 5-10 cm, and also glue them with self-adhesive tape for better sealing.

After finishing laying the waterproofing, you can proceed to the outer cladding of the walls of the house. The main stages of insulation have been completed, and the finishing material will perform only a decorative function. What to choose for facing will depend on the style of the building and the taste of the owners of the house, as well as their financial capabilities. Most often, natural wood or plastic is chosen for decorative cladding, but it must be borne in mind that the total thickness of insulation can be from 15 to 25 cm.This will significantly deepen the windows of the old building, so you should think about how they will be closed from the side of the openings - platbands, siding, new window sills.

It is not easy to insulate the outside, it is easier to insulate the house from the inside. If you correctly perform the external insulation of the walls of the house, it will help not only to avoid heat loss, the layer of thermal insulation will serve as protection against temperature extremes, as well as against dampness and humidity. If possible, it is necessary to do the insulation of the foundation of the structure. It is best to do this even before the walls are insulated, having previously processed the foundation and then sheathed it with felt or jute tow. Before insulating the walls of the house, it is advisable to treat them with an antiseptic. This will help prevent future damage to your home.

It is advisable to seal all the cracks in the walls of a wooden house, which can be easily detected in calm weather with a lighted candle, bringing it as close to the wall surface as possible. When the flame from the candle leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place. The presence of cracks can also be noticed in winter. In these places there will be a bloom of frost during the heating period of the building. It is best to seal the cracks in warm and dry weather using tow, hemp or jute.

A wooden house is a special structure, therefore it requires a special approach to itself. It can be compared to a living being; it settles in the spring and rises in the summer. Such a structure also needs insulation, like other types of buildings, but since a wooden house "breathes" it needs insulation that will help to let condensate pass through itself. Properly executed thermal insulation can extend the life of a wooden structure, it will always be warm and comfortable.

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Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Stages of wall insulation
Materials for work
Work order

Today, more and more people prefer to use natural materials, including wood, when building houses in order to preserve their health. Wooden houses are often assembled from square timber with a section of 150x150 mm and 200x200 mm. Such buildings came to us from warm countries, the average annual temperature in which is about 0 degrees. In the climate of Russia and the CIS, they require good heating... This leads to high costs for electricity, gas and other heat sources. In recent years, wooden houses have been built from rounded logs.

It is more effective to insulate houses from a bar outside.

A wooden house is always quiet, calm, cozy and comfortable. To achieve even greater comfort and in order to save money on heating the premises, many owners are trying to insulate their wooden houses both from the outside and from the inside. Internal insulation has a big drawback: it significantly reduces the internal area of \u200b\u200bthe house. Therefore, insulation of a wooden house from the outside is the most ideal option.

If the walls are properly insulated, then the heat loss of a wooden house can be minimized.

You can do all this with your own hands. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

Stages of wall insulation

Insulation of a log house outside.

The entire technology of insulating a house from the outside comes down to several main stages:

choice of insulation material;
calculation of the amount of materials;
direct installation of thermal insulation outside the building;
final finishing of the facade.

Among the insulation materials, the most popular are sheet polystyrene, which is also called expanded polystyrene, and mineral wool. For a wooden house, it is preferable to choose mineral wool. It ventilates (breathes) better and provides excellent thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene - very good insulationbut he doesn't breathe. This is fatal for wooden walls. They will soon begin to get covered with mold, mildew and rot. To prevent this from happening, it is better to insulate the house with mineral wool.

Calculation of the amount of mineral wool is not difficult. This material is sold in slabs and rolled rolls. Better to choose cotton wool in the slabs. They are simply more convenient to work with, especially when insulating flat walls. The thickness of the slabs is usually 50 mm. With a wooden wall thickness of 20 cm and an outside air temperature in winter up to minus 20 degrees, one layer of mineral wool is sufficient for insulation. At temperatures below minus 20, walls can be insulated with two or three layers of heat insulator.

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Construction of thermal insulation of a wooden house for an average climatic zone.

To perform insulation work, you will need:

mineral wool;
wooden lath 50x50 mm for one-layer insulation;
rail 50x100 mm for two-layer insulation;
waterproofing film;
self-tapping screws;
wood preservative (antifungal emulsion);
construction stapler;
staples;
metal or plastic anchors;
construction level or plumb line.

Back to the table of contents

Layer diagram for insulating a wooden house.

It is better to perform wall insulation work outside in the summer and do it in a certain sequence:

surface preparation;
installation of a waterproofing layer;
installation of wooden lathing;
installation of mineral wool slabs;
installation of an outer waterproofing layer;
finishing of the facade.

Surface preparation includes treating the outer surfaces of the walls with an antiseptic or antifungal emulsion. After processing, the emulsion should dry well.

Aluminum foil, polyethylene film, roofing material are used as waterproofing. But it is better to purchase a special porous insulating film. It has small membranes to allow air and water vapor to pass in only one direction. Outwardly, one side of the film is glossy, the other is slightly fleecy and rough. With this rough side, the film is directed towards the wall of the house. The waterproofing film is fixed to a wooden wall with staples using a construction stapler. It is recommended to apply the film layers horizontally, starting from the bottom. The upper layers are applied to the lower ones with an overlap of 10-15 cm. It is advisable to additionally glue the joints with construction tape, which is sold together with the film.

Scheme of wall insulation with mineral wool.

The purpose of this layer is to provide ventilation of the facade of the house under the film. It is recommended to fill slats with a thickness of 20-25 mm on even walls through each m. Attach the film to these slats. Above and below between the slats, cut holes with a diameter of about 20 mm in the film. This technology will not allow moisture to accumulate between wooden wall and a vapor barrier film.

A crate is mounted on top of the laid waterproofing film. Before that, you need to measure the width of the insulation boards in centimeters. Subtract 2 from the result obtained. The resulting figure should be remembered. It is at this distance that the battens of the crate will be located.

The installation of the lathing begins with fixing the initial rail with self-tapping screws to the very corner of the house. The verticality of its installation is controlled by a level or plumb line. The following bars are fixed in such a way that the mineral wool slabs are very tightly placed between them.

Mineral wool is very easy to install. It can be cut with a sharp knife if necessary. Insulation plates are attached to the wall with anchors. Holes are drilled through the cotton with a step of 50 cm in the wood of the wall, anchors are hammered into them. A core is driven into the anchor through a layer of cotton wool. He wedges the anchor body and with his wide head presses the insulation plate against the wall.

After installing all the insulation boards on the wall, a new layer of waterproofing is laid outside of this insulation. The rough side of the film is applied to a layer of mineral wool. It is fastened with staples to the lathing bars. On top of the film and staples, slats with a section of about 40x50 mm are fastened with screws. They will be needed as a crate for finishing walls. For this finish, lining, siding, facade board and other finishing are used facade materials.

Insulating the walls outside is not the end of the work. It is necessary to take into account the fact that when the house is insulated from the outside, the thickness of the walls will increase by 8-20 cm. It is necessary to think over the question of how to close the insulating layer from the side of window and door openings. Possible options - new platbands and window sills, siding, lining.

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Correctly performed wall insulation of a wooden structure requires investment of time, labor and money. But the result is a large annual savings in heating costs, the service life of the building is significantly extended, and living conditions in such a house become more comfortable. Insulating walls is to extend the life of wooden housing.

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How to insulate the outside of the wall of a wooden house: characteristics of insulation, how to insulate a house with high quality

Wood is considered one of the best insulation materials, so houses made of such material often do not need additional insulation. However, some owners of wooden buildings believe that wood may someday begin to deteriorate, and to protect their possessions they insulate them and also veneer them. In addition, high-quality thermal insulation can significantly save on energy consumption, which is consumed by heating devices. Before proceeding with the insulation of the house outside, you should decide not only on the order of work, but also on the material that will be used for this.

What material is needed to insulate the outer walls?

How to insulate a wooden house outside? For this, the following materials are used:

Mineral wool. This material has good thermal and sound insulation characteristics, it provides a tight fit and practically does not need additional fixation. In addition, the elasticity and softness of the material allows it to be laid easily and efficiently. Mineral wool is not affected by high temperatures. It also prevents mold or mildew from spreading in its structure, and no toxic substances are used during its creation.
Penoplex (expanded polystyrene). Represents special plate, which is created from expanded polystyrene with a cellular structure. Such material has low thermal conductivity, good strength, long service life, practically does not absorb moisture, and is also resistant to temperature extremes and frost. However, penoplex is expensive and easily damaged by rodents. Under the influence of high temperatures, it easily melts and burns.
Styrofoam. It is considered the most popular material used to insulate the exterior walls of a wooden house. Its structure is a bit like penoplex, but its cells are of a different size, and also has a different density and method of production. This material has good thermal insulation properties, does not absorb moisture at all and is lightweight. It is easy to install and has a low price tag. However, the foam has poor gas and vapor permeability, which is why air does not enter the room.
Polyurethane foam. It is a fairly effective material used for wall insulation outside a wooden house. Its installation is carried out by spraying. Many people prefer polyurethane foam to other insulation materials for its excellent qualities and the ability to replace the old layer with a new one only after 30 years. Its foamy structure provides excellent protection against frost and dust. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of corrosive chemical vapors and even acids. In addition, it does not absorb moisture well, is highly environmentally friendly and has good fire resistance. However, it is worth protecting it from ultraviolet radiation, which can quickly age the material.

Requirements for materials used for wall insulation

The main characteristics that you need to pay attention to when choosing a heater for the walls of a wooden house are the following:

For example, expanded polystyrene has absolutely ideal characteristics, but it has a significant drawback - a high degree of flammability and the release of ethylene, which has a negative effect on the human body. But mineral heaters practically do not burn, they have good chemical resistance, hygroscopicity and a high degree of sound insulation.

You should simply strive to carry out high-quality insulation with materials in order to avoid such unfavorable moments as excessive moisture and instability to the effects of rodents, and at the same time increase the positive qualities - fire resistance, strength, reliability.

It is necessary to consider in more detail the technology of insulating the outer walls of a wooden house with such popular materials as mineral wool and foam.

Thermal insulation of external walls of a wooden house with mineral wool

Before you start insulating a house, you need to calculate the amount of material. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls, slabs or mats. It is best to use material in the form of slabs for insulation, since the rolls are completely inconvenient. To calculate the required amount of insulation, you should know what thickness the supporting structure has. The natural factor is also important. For example, for wooden walls with a thickness of no more than 20 cm, one layer of mineral wool will be sufficient, provided that the winter is not too harsh. In addition, the following tools and materials must be purchased for the warming process:

self-tapping screws;
anchors;
special film for waterproofing;
building level;
construction stapler;
plumb line.

Then they begin to prepare the surface that will need to be insulated. Due to the fact that it is wooden, it is necessary to process it with special agents that prevent the formation of fungus. It can be an emulsion or a primer. In order for the antiseptic to dry thoroughly, you should leave it for a while. Outside, the walls must be dry when laying the insulation. The joints between the boards should also be examined. There should be no damage or crevices.

After that, thermal insulation is carried out. First, a vapor barrier is attached. It can be roofing material, vapor barrier, plastic wrap or aluminum foil. A vapor barrier is necessary for ventilation of the facade of the house. Vertically narrow slats are stuffed onto the surface, onto which a vapor barrier layer is attached. Small ventilation holes are made between these slats at the top and bottom, which prevent the formation of moisture, which negatively affects the wooden walls. To prevent moisture from seeping through the holes from staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

Then the crate is installed. A frame is made, intended for the subsequent installation of a layer of thermal insulation. The boards should be 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide. They should be fixed with their ribs to the wall. The distance between them directly depends on the thickness of the insulation.

Proceed with the installation of thermal insulation material. It should be laid between the installed battens of the sheathing. If necessary, the mineral wool is cut with an ordinary knife. Installation is carried out, completely excluding all gaps and crevices. Insulation is carried out as follows: the joint line of the first layer of insulation should be at the level of the middle of the slab of the second layer. Mineral wool is an elastic material, so no additional fixings are required. Then several small holes are made in the insulation. They are required for fasteners and anchors.

The structure is waterproofed. Attach a special bar that retains moisture and does not allow air to pass through. It should be overlapped and secured with a construction stapler. To maintain tightness, all joints and holes should be sealed with construction tape. A rail is attached to the waterproofing layer, creating a movement of air flows between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. At the bottom, the free space is covered with a metal mesh that protects from rodents and insects. After the completion of the insulation, the house is sheathed with any finishing material.

Thermal insulation of external walls of a wooden house with foam

This material is considered the most popular used for insulating the outer walls of a wooden house. Before starting work on insulation, you must make sure that the joints on the wall of the house do not have cracks or holes. Then the boards are vertically mounted on which the foam will be attached. In order for the sheets to fit tightly into the constructed frame, a certain distance between the boards must be observed. To do this, add up the thickness of the foam and the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame is mounted in this way: the ribs should be nailed to the middle of the previous ones. The resulting structure must have the same depth as the insulation. Then a layer of thermal insulation is attached. Work starts from the bottom. There must be the correct distance between the bars - this is a guarantee of high-quality foam fixing. Check if there are gaps at the joints.

On top of the previous layer, the diffusion membrane should be fixed with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints should be insulated with tape. After the completion of the house insulation, its facing is carried out.

Thus, in order to qualitatively insulate a wooden house from the outside, it is necessary to use only environmentally friendly materials with appropriate technical characteristics. To do this, it is necessary to carefully study the positive and negative aspects of each insulation and draw the appropriate conclusions.

kotel.guru

How to insulate a wooden house outside with your own hands: choosing the right insulation, stages of insulation

Wood is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials used in construction. Moreover, it is natural and environmentally friendly.

Recently, the construction of wooden houses has become more widespread. A room made of such material turns out to be very warm, and the owners do not even try to insulate it, but in vain. In frosty winters, even a tree is not able to keep warm. Therefore, many people have a question: how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? You should understand this in more detail.

The better to insulate a wooden house outside

Wooden houses can be insulated from the outside or from the inside. According to most experts, it is external insulation that gives the greatest effect, because:

saves space inside the house;
this is a wonderful protection load-bearing walls from natural disasters;
moisture on the walls will never accumulate, thereby preventing the appearance of condensation, and accordingly the tree will not rot and decay.

Insulating a house from the outside requires careful selection of the necessary material. It is best to use mineral wool and expanded polystyrene for these purposes.

Mineral wool

Most often, do-it-yourself insulation of a wooden house is carried out using mineral wool, which has the following qualities:

Expanded polystyrene

It is an environmentally friendly material and has been used as a material for thermal insulation for a very long time. It is resistant to moisture and various microorganisms, and is also very durable. However, experts do not advise them to insulate a wooden house for them, since it has one serious drawback - high flammability and the ability to release ethylene, which is harmful to the human body.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool

To insulate a building, it is best to purchase mineral wool, which is most often used for these purposes. In hardware stores, you can buy mineral wool in the following variations:

It is best to use the material in the slabs for insulation, since the rolls are very inconvenient.

Calculation of the amount of material

First, the amount of material required for insulation is calculated. To do this, you need to know how thick the supporting structure is. It is also necessary to take into account the natural conditions. For example, in case of not too severe winters, the walls of a house with a thickness of 20 cm should be insulated with one layer of mineral wool.

In addition to the material for insulation, you should purchase anchors, self-tapping screws and a special film for waterproofing. You will also need tools such as a plumb line, a building level and a special stapler.

Surface preparation for insulation

Then they begin to prepare the surface, which requires insulation. Since it is wooden, it must be treated with special agents against the formation of fungus. You can use an emulsion or primer. In order for the selected antiseptic to dry thoroughly, it is left for a while. One more condition must be observed - the walls must not be wet. Correctly lay the insulation only on a dry surface. There should be no gaps between the boards. If they do arise, then the situation is corrected with jute tow or polyurethane foam.

Vapor barrier and lathing installation

The next step is the implementation of vapor barrier. They begin to fix the vapor barrier layer using plastic wrap, aluminum foil, as well as roofing material or vapor barrier. This layer is intended to ensure that the front of the house has ventilation. On a smooth surface, narrow strips begin to fill vertically, which will subsequently be used to fasten the vapor barrier layer.

Ventilation holes are provided between the slats from below and from above. They are necessary to prevent the formation of moisture, which can damage wooden walls. To prevent water from penetrating through the holes from staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

They begin to install the crate. For this, a frame is installed, which will be used for mounting a layer of thermal insulation. The boards should be 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide. They are attached to the wall with the costal part. The distance between the bars directly depends on the thickness of the material for insulation. Be sure to use a building level, with which the position of the boards is aligned relative to the vertical level.

Installation of thermal insulation material

Next, proceed to the installation of the material for insulation. It is laid between the battens of the crate. If necessary, the mineral wool is cut with an ordinary sharp knife. Installation is carried out in such a way as to completely eliminate gaps and crevices. A feature of mineral wool is its elasticity, which allows you not to use additional fasteners. After that, several holes are made in the insulation at a distance of 50 cm from each other for fasteners and anchors.

Construction waterproofing and facade cladding

Then proceed to waterproofing the structure. For this, a special film is attached, capable of retaining moisture and not allowing air to pass through. Lay it with an overlap and fix it with ordinary nails or a construction stapler to the frame. For tightness, all joints and holes are sealed with construction tape. A strip should be attached to the waterproofing layer. As a result, air circulation is created between the outer skin and the vapor barrier. Below, the free space must be closed with a metal mesh so that various insects and rodents do not penetrate inside.

The final stage of house insulation is the facade cladding with the necessary finishing material, for example, a block house or siding. The process of installing the finishing coating is carried out according to the technology.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house with foam

For home insulation with their own hands, foam is also used. Before starting the installation of insulation, check the quality of the joints on the wall. After that, the boards are mounted, which will be needed for attaching the foam. For tight fit of sheets of insulation into the constructed frame, it is necessary to strictly observe the required distance of the boards from each other. To do this, add the thickness of the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame begins to be mounted in this way: the ribs are nailed to the middle of the previous ones with their ribs. Then they begin to fix the layer of insulation, this process is best started from the bottom. The correct distance between the bars is the key to good material holding. Be sure to check for gaps at the joints. A diffusion membrane is attached to the top of the previous layer with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints are sealed with tape. Finally, the cladding of a wooden house is carried out.

Usually very good. In most cases, such buildings do not need insulation. However, cracks and holes often appear in the walls of old chopped and cobbled structures. It is then that there is a need to isolate the enclosing structures. Of course, this procedure should be carried out strictly adhering to certain technologies. In addition, of course, you need to know what is the best way to insulate wooden houses outside.

What materials will be needed

In order to perform high-quality insulation of wooden walls, you will need to prepare:

A bar with a section of 50 x 150 mm for a crate. Another option can be used. In this case, it all depends on what thickness the insulation is chosen. Its slabs must be completely recessed into the crate.
Mineral wool is an excellent answer to the question of how to insulate wooden houses outside. Plates must be sufficiently rigid. This will negate the risk of slipping in the future.
Vapor barrier and waterproofing films. These materials are necessary to protect the heat insulator from getting wet from the outside and from the inside.
Bars 40 x 40 cm. They will be used to attach the waterproofing film.
or lining. These materials are just perfect for upholstering a wooden house.
Means for treating walls from fungus. It is also advisable to purchase a composition that increases the fire resistance of wood.

What tools will be needed

You will also need to prepare:

Hammer for hammering in nails.
Drill for siding installation.
A knife for cutting a waterproofing film.

Insulation of windows and doors

The question of how to insulate a private house, is reduced, among other things, to the insulation of openings. Of course, there should be no gaps between window frames and walls. Otherwise, the effect of rather expensive work on the insulation of the building itself will be reduced to zero. If there are gaps, they should first be repaired. concrete mortar... The same goes for the door jamb. The canvas itself will also be nice to insulate. You can buy a ready-made door with a built-in insulator. By the way, the same goes for windows. There are always microcracks in old cracked wooden frames, through which precious heat leaves the house. Therefore, if funds allow, it is worth buying and installing new euro windows. In this case, the profile can be used wooden or cheaper PVC "woodgrain".

Expansion of the foundation

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house, we will consider below. First, let's figure out what needs to be done before that. Of course, the first step is to expand the base of the house. The wall cake should rest on something from below. Otherwise, the heat insulator will start to slip. For expansion, reinforcing bars are drilled into the main foundation. Further, formwork is installed along the perimeter of the house. Sand is poured onto the bottom of the resulting "trough". Next, a footing 5 cm thick is poured. Reinforcement is installed on it and connected to rods drilled into the main foundation. Then the filling is done. After the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed. From above, the new part of the foundation should be waterproofed with two layers of roofing material.

Insulation of the foundation

In order to make the house as warm as possible, the foundation should be insulated before the walls are insulated. A very good solution would be to use polyurethane foam for this purpose. This material is quite expensive, however, since it retains heat much better than other insulators, it will be needed much less. For pretty effective insulation a layer of 3 to 10 cm is needed.

Of course, you can use expanded polystyrene for this purpose. However, in this case, it is better to purchase products from trusted manufacturers. For example, the foam insulation of the Penoplex brand, the price of which is not too high (100-300 rubles), tolerates the effects of aggressive substances dissolved in the soil very well. In addition, he is absolutely not afraid of moisture. Mineral wool is not recommended for basement insulation. The fact is that this material absorbs water very easily and at the same time loses its insulating properties.

Insulating the walls: preliminary stage

So, let's start to figure out how to insulate a private house, or rather, its facades. First of all, all surfaces must be cleaned of dirt. Further, the timber or log is treated with a fungus-preventing agent. It is also worth smearing them with compounds that increase fire resistance and destroy insects. Further, all existing slots and grooves are sealed with tow. Caulking should be done in dry weather. Instead of tow, you can use jute or hemp. These materials are pushed into the crevices using special tool - caulk. After that, you can proceed to actually work on assembling the wall cake.

What you need to know about a heat insulator

You already know how to insulate wooden houses outside. Why basalt wool? This material is considered the best choice because foam or expanded polystyrene practically does not allow moisture to pass through. Even if there are ventilation gaps under these materials, a lot of it accumulates. As a result, the cake loses some of its insulating properties, and the log or timber begins to rot.

Even high-quality foam insulation is not suitable for cladding wooden walls. For example, the same Penoplex. The price of mineral wool is lower than that of it. Consequently, the owners of the house do not lose anything in any case. Instead of basalt, you can use glass wool.

Vapor barrier device

The walls are preliminarily covered with a material that prevents moisture from entering the insulation from inside the house. As a vapor barrier, you can use plastic wrap or some other more modern analogue. In the event that the walls are thick and assembled from logs, the material can be fixed directly to them. In this case, there will be enough between the crowns for effective ventilation free space. If they are knocked down from boards or made of timber, you will need to arrange an additional gap for ventilation. In this case, the film is stretched onto thin slats previously fixed to the wall.

Installation of battens

So, you now know the answer to the question of what is the best way to insulate a wooden house. Mineral wool slabs are attached to the walls and are often fixed horizontally. Lining and block house are usually mounted on a vertical frame. The bars are attached to screws or nails. The step between them should be equal to the width of the mineral wool slabs. Sometimes the distance between the battens is made a little smaller. In this case, it will be possible to install the slabs with a frame. The timber must be treated with anti-rotting and fire-resistant agents.

Installation of plates

So, we found out how to insulate wooden houses outside. How to install the plates correctly? The insulation is mounted on top of the vapor barrier film between the beams of the assembled sheathing. Unfortunately, they are often a little uneven. Therefore, gaps may form between the slabs and the battens in some places. It is allowed to embed them with materials such as basalt, jute or flax. To prevent the slabs from falling out and slipping, it is worth additionally securing them with special plastic dowels with wide caps. If the lathing is mounted vertically, sheathe the walls with cotton wool from any corner. If the bars are horizontal, installation is carried out from the bottom up.

Usually insulation is done with a material 5 cm thick. In this case, the installation is carried out in two layers. In this case, the joints of the second are located above the center of the plates of the first. The bottom of the cake will need to be covered with a metal mesh so that mice and insects do not penetrate into it.

Installation of waterproofing film

So, the best insulation for a house made of wood is mineral wool. What material should be chosen for a waterproofing device? In this case, it is worth using a special superdiffusion membrane. This material will protect the walls not only from rain, but also from the wind. For wooden houses, it is allowed to use with a vapor permeability of at least 1400 g per m 3.

The foil is attached directly to the batten with 40 x 40 mm blocks. This will create a ventilation layer between it and fine finish... Lay the film perpendicular to the location of the battens. The overlap between the individual strips should be about 10 cm. Sometimes the joints are additionally glued with construction tape.

Installation of lining

The finishing material is attached to the counter-lattice obtained after installing the waterproofer. There are only two main ways to fix the lining: nails and special clamps. The first method can be considered the simplest. However, in aesthetics, such a cladding of the one made in two other ways loses a lot. After all, the heads of the carnations will be clearly visible in any case.

Therefore, the lining is often fixed on the crate with clamps. These fasteners are first put on the lamella groove flange, and then on the timber. In this way, a very beautiful coating can be made. In the same way, a block house is attached to the crate.

Insulation of the roof of a wooden house outside

In this case, a wire is first attached to the rafters from the back side, and behind it from the inside. Further, insulation plates are installed outside. It is mounted above it. It is attached to the bars. Next, the crate is mounted. The step between its elements depends on the type of roofing material. A continuous crate is arranged under roofing felt and soft tiles. Under the profile, they are mounted sparse with a distance between the elements of 30-50 cm.

Thus, we have figured out how to insulate an old wooden house. As you can see, this procedure is not particularly difficult. The most important thing is to follow the order of work and not violate the technology. In this case, the wooden building will turn out to be warm and cozy, and the ventilated facade and roof themselves will last a long time.

In most cases, rural residents are interested in insulating wooden houses, where half of the houses are built of wood. To keep the house warm, it is necessary to comfortably insulate it from the outside, while maintaining the internal dimensions of the rooms. But not everyone knows how to properly insulate a house, what insulation materials to use. This article provides information on the technology of insulating wooden houses from the outside, various insulation materials that are used to insulate wooden houses, their advantages and disadvantages.

Features of the insulation of wooden houses

The wood from which the house is built evaporates moisture. Therefore, when carrying out work on the insulation of wooden houses from the outside, it is necessary provide ventilation walls in order to avoid covering wood with mold, fungus. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside helps to protect it from exposure to low temperatures, condensation. Before starting the insulation of the house lay vapor barrier and install the frame.

It is mounted vertically from dry wooden slats or a metal profile. The height of the slats should match the thickness insulation, and the step of installing the rails 1−2 cm less width of the insulation, so that the insulation material fits tightly into the frame and does not form cracks. For fastening the thermal insulation material use construction brackets or nails. A windproof film is attached on top of the insulation, which has the properties of releasing moisture from the walls and does not allow moisture to pass from the outside. the last stage involves wall cladding.

outside wooden house: 1 - insulated wooden wall; 2 - vapor barrier layer; 3 - insulation material; 4 - waterproofing; 5 - facing material.

If a wooden house is faced with bricks, stone slabs are necessary provide holes, to allow air to enter the ventilation space.

When choosing a material as insulation for a wooden house, it is necessary know their properties,which play an important role.

Varieties of materials for outdoor insulation

To insulate a wooden house outside, the industry produces a lot of artificial and natural insulation materials. Artificial materials have strength properties,reliability, but at the same time they do not allow air to pass through, which leads to the accumulation of moisture inside wooden walls, thereby destroying them.When using artificial insulation, it is necessary to make good vapor barrier and ventilation at home. Consider some types of insulation that are used to insulate the outside of a wooden house.

It is a synthetic-based fibrous thermal insulation material. Contains formaldehyde adhesive.

Advantages:

has a high temperature threshold;
does not melt or burn.

Disadvantages:

does not protect wood from mold;
releases toxic substances at high temperatures.

Glass wool - a type of mineral wool, which contains components such as quartz sand, recycled glass.

Benefits:

has strength;
does not burn.

Disadvantages:

melts at high temperature;
releases toxic substances;
promotes the growth of the fungus.

This is a cellular insulation made of expanded polystyrene.

Benefits:

Disadvantages:

easily destroyed when exposed to solvents;
difficulty in fitting and cutting;
vapor permeability is often a disadvantage rather than an advantage.

Styrofoam - the insulation consists of a large number of balls filled with air.

Benefits:

excellent sound insulation;
ease of installation;
withstands temperature drops;
density;
not subject to swelling and decay;
durability.

Disadvantages:

low vapor permeability;
not fire retardant;
not environmentally friendly.

Ecowool - modern insulation material, made of 80% cellulose and 20% antiseptic, a substance that protects it from rodents, mold. They can insulate any premises.

Benefits:

reliability;
inedible for rodents;
prevents the formation of mold and mildew.
low thermal conductivity;
environmentally friendly.

Disadvantages:

special equipment is required for laying;
shrinks;
smolders when exposed to high temperatures.

There are other thermal insulation materials that can be insulated outside are wooden houses.

The procedure for insulating a house with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of a wooden house outside with mineral wool, subject to the installation technology, you can do it yourself.

Before starting work on the insulation of the house, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls: clean it from dust, various contaminants and treat them with an antiseptic.

The procedure for insulating the outside of the house with mineral wool provides for five stages:

Stage one is laying a vapor barrier, which provides ventilation and prevents rotting at home. For vapor barrier use a special film, roofing felt or aluminum foil. It is impossible to lay the vapor barrier material directly on the wall, so as not to expose the walls to mold or mildew. To do this, it is necessary to leave between the wall and the vapor barrier material ventilation space.
Stage two - provides wood frame manufacturing for insulation material. The frame is made of wooden slats, which are attached vertically to the wall and should be 1-2 cm less than the size of the mineral wool slab.
Stage three consists in laying a layer of insulation. Insulation carried out with mineral wool is recommended to be laid in two layers so that the joint of the first layer lies in the middle of the second. No crevices are allowed. For reliability, the insulation is fixed with metal or plastic anchors.
Stage four consists of waterproofing, which prevents water ingressfor insulation and walls.
And the final fifth stage - house cladding outside.The cladding material is attached to wooden cratemade of 4 × 5 cm bar.Thanks to new modern technologies there is a wide selection of outdoor coatings on the market that will give your home an aesthetic appearance.

Foam insulation technology

To insulate a wooden house with foam, you will need:

Before insulating a house, first of all, check the joints between logs or beams. If the insulation material is loose, it must be re-laid. Then they are attached to the walls vertically boards so that the distance between the centers corresponds to the width of the foam board. To do this, it is necessary to accurately maintain the step of fastening the boards, which will be equal to H + S-5. H - means the thickness of the board; S is the width of the foam sheet; 5 mm - the value that provides the foam tension during installation. the main thingso that all boards are in the same vertical plane.

Further, in the fixed boards in the center, they nailed wooden slats, the height of which corresponds to the thickness of the foam board, and the distance of the fastening of the rails should be 0.5 cm less than the width of the foam sheet.

Styrofoam plates fit from below and fit tightly into the frame without the formation of gaps. If the slabs are not laid tightly, they are secured with foam wedges or nails.

After laying the foam in horizontal stripes from bottom to top, it is laid diffusion membrane, which overlaps the foam joints by 10-15 mm. The membrane is attached with a stapler to the frame, and the joints are glued with adhesive tape. When laying waterproofing material read the instructions for its use.

Then comes the final stage - house cladding facing material. Cladding material can be whatever you choose.

Warming with polystyrene (penoplex)

When insulating a wooden house outside with foam, it is necessary to follow the technology. Between the penoplex and the wall there should be ventilation space. Like other insulation materials, it cannot be attached directly to the walls in order to prevent decay of the wooden walls. They begin to insulate a wooden house outside with a penoplex with the installation of a wooden crate.

The lathing is made of slats with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm. Then the foam plates are laid in the crate. If the house is built of timber, then wooden slats with a section of 30 × 40 mm are laid between the foam and the wall to provide ventilation. The log walls of the house do not require lathing, as the unevenness between the logs will serve as a ventilation space. Completes the exterior insulation of a wooden house with foam - siding cladding, brick or other facing materials.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house under siding

In order to sheathe a wooden house with siding with insulation, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls first. Should adhere to the instructions.To begin with, remove the ebb, platbands, window sills and other existing elements that will interfere with the installation of the frame. All the cracks fill with tow or special sealants, and also level the surface.

The walls are processed moisture protective agentand a fire retardant primer followed by drying. House cladding with siding is carried out at any time of the year, provided that the air temperature should not be below 10 ° C, since the siding crumbles in the cold when cutting.

To work you will need the following tools:

saw with a blade of fine teeth;
square;
scissors for metal;
a hammer;
building level;
screwdriver;
roulette;
stairs;
bulgarian.

The technology of cladding a wooden house with siding, except for panels, involves the usesuch elements:

starting rail - mounted under the first row of panels;
J-panel - required when installing spotlights and for edging vertical cuts;
H-profile - used to connect panels;
wind panel - attached to the ends of the roof to protect them from the wind;
internal and outer corners - used for sheathing the corners of the house;
platbands and ebbs - used to decorate windows and doorways.

The technology of insulating a wooden house and siding is not complicated:

a vapor barrier film is attached;
insulating material is placed in a wooden crate;
cover the thermal insulation with a windproof film;
carry out the installation of panels.

Before sheathing the house with siding with insulation, you need carry out vapor barrier, which we attach to thin slats with a section of 30 × 20 mm. The vapor barrier foil must not be attached directly to walls. Next is produced installation of the lathing. It is performed from dry wooden slats, which are treated with an antiseptic. The slats are placed in increments of 1–2 cm less than the width of the insulation plate, their thickness depends on the insulation material. Then they are laid in the crate thermal insulation material,which is covered with a windproof film. After the completion of thermal and waterproofing, they begin to fasten the rails on which the panels will be installed. The slats are placed every 30-40 cm.

House cladding with siding is carried out in the following order. Panel mounting start by establishing drainage, which protects the base of the foundation from water and snow. The drainage is installed strictly according to the level, since the quality of the installation of the panels themselves depends on it. On top of it, a starting rail is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screws are tightened in such a way that between the head and the fastening strip there is a gap of 1 mm.

The first panel is applied to the starting rail and snapped into the lock until it clicks. Fix the panel by screwing it with self-tapping screws in the center of the holes to the crate. And so on, they are assembling the panels. After sheathing the walls with siding, they begin to install its additional elements. Internal and external corners are mounted, windows and doors are trimmed with J-strips or platbands, they are fixed under the roof finishing planks. A special perforated strip is attached to the visors from below, into which soffits are inserted.

We provided information on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, what insulation is used. From this information it can be concluded that proper insulation of the house will give it a comfortable microclimate, reliably protect it from the effects of precipitation, and since the insulation of a wooden house from the outside provides for surface cladding, thanks to it the house will have aesthetic appearance.

04.09.2016 0 comments

The popularity of houses made of wood is only increasing every year. And for good reason. This is due to the ease and speed of construction work, as well as the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. However, the latter fact does not at all exclude the feasibility of insulation, especially in areas with a harsh climate. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what? The advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances of doing this kind of work with your own hands, will be revealed further.

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Insulation options

Thermal insulation of a wooden house outside has a lot of advantages:

the dimensions of the interior rooms remain unchanged;
lack of debris and dust indoors;
there is no need to rearrange furniture or perform any internal work;
additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
for old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to refine and transform the appearance of a building.

Note! Improper performance of work on insulating a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, deterioration and decay of the wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Despite constant discoveries and developments in the field of construction and building materials technologies, 3 options for insulation materials have confidently established themselves on the market:

Mineral wool.
Styrofoam.
Penoplex or polystyrene.

They all have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own characteristics and disadvantages, which are extremely important to consider. A detailed consideration of each material will allow you to decide how best to insulate a wooden house.

Mineral wool, features of insulation

Mineral wool is compressed particles of artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for a log house, and does not undergo deformation. This material has proven itself in construction and is widely used to insulate the walls of a wooden house.

The pluses of mineral wool can be safely attributed to:

ease of installation;
environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
guarantees additional protection against the effects of fire;
democracy, affordability in terms of price;
durability;
the structure does not deteriorate, does not change under the influence of temperature drops;
the material has a high melting point, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is better than many.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although there are few of them:

the need for additional protective equipment (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
it is hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, therefore high-quality hydro and vapor barrier are required.

When choosing mineral wool as insulation, consider the following tips:

Before insulation, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
Completely exclude the possibility of moisture penetration to the mineral wool. For this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a heater and a layer of waterproofing.
It is necessary to mount the material with an approach to half of the previous sheet of material, spaces between the elements are not allowed.
Additionally, you can limit the shift of the mineral wool using anchors.
You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Styrofoam as insulation

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, you can insulate a wooden house with your own hands using foam plastic. Outwardly, it is an accumulation of a large number of air, foamed balls of plastic mass. In terms of insulating qualities, polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) is in no way inferior to mineral wool.

The advantages of this material include:

simplicity and ease of installation;
lightness of the material;
dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
increased soundproofing qualities;
resistance to temperature extremes and atmospheric precipitation;
significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

Insulating the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is not at all more complicated than mineral wool. Rather, on the contrary, the sheet of material is easily transferred, adjusted to the required dimensions by cutting. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

It is necessary to lay the material end-to-end.
A diffusion membrane is used to process the gaps at the joints of the expanded polystyrene sheets. It is attached to the surface with a stapler directly to the light.
The diffusion membrane must be at least 10 cm wide to ensure complete insulation of the foam joints.
Use scotch tape to join the membrane pieces.
Despite the stable ratio of foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders are strongly against the use of foam as a heat insulator. Because if the work is not organized correctly, it will accelerate the development of fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the wall of the structure and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Penoplex insulation (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a brother of polystyrene. It is also a honeycomb, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene beads, but technical specifications exceeds its predecessor.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

increased technical characteristics;
good surface strength;
does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
perfectly retains internal heat;
does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
ease of installation;
environmentally friendly material;
does not burn;
will delight you with a long service life.

The disadvantages of Penoplex are as follows:

The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or foam.
The need for high-quality protection from ultraviolet exposure to sunlight. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
Sensitive to solvents and similar substances.
Easily spoiled by rodents.

With regard to the process of insulation, it is identical to the foam.

Note! Required condition foam insulation - the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and a wooden wall.

Log house insulation technology outside

Now let's look at how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, in stages:

Prepare the surface of the walls at home. To do this, clean them of contamination, and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
Seal gaps, holes and cracks in the wall polyurethane foam... When the foam dries, cut off the remains with a sharp knife.
Wet walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
For laying the vapor barrier, use wooden battens. The spacing between the slats should be 1 m. The lathing should guarantee a ventilation space of 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of moisture droplets on the tree with subsequent rotting, damage to the wall surface.
Lay the vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing material. Fasten the vapor barrier on the rails, and seal the attachment points with tape to make the coating tight.
Create a frame for the heat insulator, also using 40 × 100 mm wooden planks. Insulation will be mounted in its grooves. Therefore, to achieve the maximum density of joints, the distance between the strips should be 15 mm less than the sheet width of the material used. Wooden planks are only installed on the edge.
With the help of a building level, keep an eye on the evenness of the crate to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other shortcomings.
Lay the insulation in the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
The next stage of the "pie" is laying a layer of a hydro-windproof membrane. It must be fastened with nails or a construction stapler to a wooden frame. Again, the joints should be treated with tape for tightness.
The final stage is the installation of decorative finishes on the facade of the house. Use siding, wall paneling, brick or other building materials for this purpose.

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners on a lot decades and even often overstep the century. But sooner or later the time comes when the insulation of a wooden house outside becomes a necessary measure, since, under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the details of the walls dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold gets into the rooms without much difficulty. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and this will pay off already in the first winter.

Having carried out the exterior, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the exterior design of the building.

But, before you buy material and start work, you need to find out which of modern heaters is better suited for a wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to carry out its installation.

At the moment, the most popular materials for insulating wooden buildings outside are polystyrene foam in panels and various types of mineral wool, made in the form of mats or rolls. But, in addition to them, in recent years, sprayed insulation compounds, such as foam insulation or ecowool, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulation layer, but also decorative trim, are increasingly used.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. It has good performance characteristics and allows significant savings on heating.

Produce expanded polystyrene panels different thicknesses, sizes 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m, density from 15 to 40 kg / m³. For insulation outdoor work, a material of average density - about 25kg / m³ and thickness from 50 mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density expanded polystyrene is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is light, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, therefore it becomes a good barrier for both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and fasten to the wall. It is resistant to temperature extremes and ultraviolet light, and also almost does not absorb moisture, therefore, it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, expanded polystyrene has its own significant disadvantages:

low mechanical strength - the material breaks down and crumbles quite easily, therefore, after being fixed on the wall, it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and decorative coating;
ordinary expanded polystyrene cannot be called non-combustible, and when exposed to high temperatures, it turns into a fluid burning mass and releases substances hazardous to the human body. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered non-flammable, or rather, self-extinguishing, and it is it that is recommended to be used for warming wooden buildings.
if you plan to fix the plates with glue, then you need to know in advance whether it is suitable for use with expanded polystyrene, since some substances destroy this material.

Rating of expanded polystyrene for the facade

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2			⭐ 99 / 100
#3			⭐ 98 / 100
#4			⭐ 96 / 100
#5			⭐ 95 / 100

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Characteristic:

quantity per package 10 pcs;
dimensions 100 × 120 cm;
thickness 100 mm;
the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet is 1.2 m²;
area in the package 12 m²;
applied
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.048 W / (m⋅K).

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Characteristic:

quantity in the package 7 pcs;
dimensions 118 × 60 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet is 0.7 m²;
package area 4.9 m²;
for internal and external work;
tongue-and-groove plate;
minimum operating temperature -50 ° C;
maximum operating temperature 75 ° C.

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Xcharacteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in the package 8 pcs;
dimensions 118.5 × 58.5 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet is 0.7 m²;
area in the package 5.6 m²;
for internal and external work;
area of \u200b\u200bapplication: for floors, for walls, for ceilings, for roofs;
tongue-and-groove plate;

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Characteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in the package 8 pcs;
dimensions 240 × 60 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet is 1.4 m²;
packing area 11.2 m²;
for external work;
scope: for floor, for roofing;
tongue-and-groove plate;
maximum operating temperature 75 ° C;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 W / (m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Characteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in the package 20 pcs;
dimensions 120 × 60 cm;
thickness 20 mm;
the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet is 0.7 m²;
packing area 14 m²;
for internal and external work;
minimum operating temperature -70 ° C;
maximum operating temperature 75 ° C;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.032 W / (m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of expanded polystyrene insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the lathing or directly on the wall plane with the help of glue and fasteners - "umbrellas" ("fungi"). The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house was built from a bar and its walls have flat surfaces, you can use both options, but it is easier to get by with glue.

Before installing the insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If there are any, then they must be repaired. The process can be carried out in various ways - this is plugging the cracks with tow, treated with lime, or sealing modern materials, such as sealant or construction foam.
Thereafter wooden surface must be treated - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold spots.
When the antiseptic is dry, you can start installing the insulation. To make it stick well to the wall, you can lightly walk on its surface with an iron brush.
Insulation installation starts from the bottom corner of the wall. For the convenience of fastening and the evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width that matches the thickness of the material.

Plates are coated with a solution of special construction glue, pointwise and along the edge, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be tightly pressed against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and fixed to the wall, they must be sealed with mounting foam.

After removing the first row, the subsequent rows are attached according to the system brickwork, in a dressing.

After waiting 3-4 days after mounting the plates to the wall, they must be fixed with fasteners-"mushrooms". Each plate must be fixed with 5-6 similar elements. Fasteners should have a leg length several centimeters more than the thickness of the insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the "fungus" must be chosen with a 100 mm leg. When hammered, the cap must enter the expanded polystyrene plate flush with its surface.

Fixation of fastening - "fungus"

When all the insulation is installed, you can start reinforcing the expanded polystyrene - this is done using a fiberglass mesh-serpyanka.

At all corners of the building, you need to install special corners with a mesh fixed to them, they are fixed with glue.

Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka

A wide mesh is fixed to the rest of the surface, which is realized in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm also on the glue mass. Serpyanka should, as it were, drown in the glue. Having fixed it on the surface of expanded polystyrene, they are passed over it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries up, the wall needs to be covered with a primer mixture - decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, only decorative plastering can be done. finishing - siding or there will be simply nothing to fix the lining. But on the plastered walls, you can fix a light finishing material, for example, plastic tiles for brick or stone.

Find out detailed information with instructions on how, from our new article.

Since the installation work according to the second option (along the crate) is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, they will be discussed below.

Why it is worth insulating the house

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not a new insulation material, it is time-tested, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost its popularity at all.

One of the best insulation materials is mineral wool

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers held together by special compounds. Three different types of mineral wool are produced, and they differ in the basic material of manufacture - this is stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they have other differences - moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to some external influences, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

Slag

This material is made from blast-furnace slags, which after processing are drawn into fibers 10 to 20 mm long and up to 10 microns thick.

When choosing insulation for the facade, this option must be abandoned immediately, since it is hydroscopic. Moisture can cause mold to develop inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to the metal profile, an oxidative reaction may occur, since the slags have residual acidity in their composition.

Slag wool has a sufficiently high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic, it is also not quite suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.

Glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting molten glass, the fiber length of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is no more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it is lightweight and resilient. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, the packaging does not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and more durable. It not only insulates the walls well, but also perfectly protects from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install it between the sheathing bars.

Disadvantage - when installing it, you need to carefully protect your eyes, face and hands, respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they get on fabrics, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

Stone wool

Basalt rocks are used as raw materials for the manufacture of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperaturestherefore it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of cotton wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Thanks to all its positive characteristics, it is excellent for facades insulation.

Basalt (stone) wool - a material with practically no flaws

Basalt wool is produced in the form of rolls or slabs, it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

All of the above types of mineral wool are classified by hardness. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for facade insulation. For such work, you need to choose a material of the ПЖ-175 brand - it is a rigid plate, or ППЖ -200, which means an increased rigidity of the plate.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

The installation of an insulating layer of mineral wool is carried out with a crate installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with expanded polystyrene. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
In this case, a lathing made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which the slab or roll insulation is fixed.

In order to achieve the best insulation effect and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is advised to pre-fix the vapor barrier material under the crate.
It must be remembered that the lathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be less than the width of the insulation by 5 cm. This is required so that it fits snugly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be mounted in two layers, it means that it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the bars to be installed - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

There are several ways how to fix the crate, and which one to choose is up to the owner of the house, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
After installing the battens, insulation mats are placed between them, starting from the bottom row. In order for them not to slip, you can connect all the bars from below with a supporting rail.

In the event that roll material is used, the installation begins from the top, securing the upper edge to the "mushrooms". The rest of the fixing elements will be installed later.
Then, the installed insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. She often completely covers the entire wall, fixing it on the bars with brackets. Sometimes it fits only on the insulation, but the first option is preferable.

Further, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is fixed to the wall with "fungi".
Fixed on top of the crate decorative finishing - it can be siding or lining. Installation rules for such finishes are considered separately, in other publications.

A decorative coating is mounted on top of the lathing - siding, block house or other materials

If the lathing is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It also happens differently - with insulation in two layers. First, the first lathing is done horizontally, then, after the first layer of insulation has been laid, the second lathing is mounted along the beams, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool - everything is the same as described above.

Video - An example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Sprayed heaters

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, recently they began to use liquid insulation, which is sprayed onto the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such insulation, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can be an excellent alternative to mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam

A wooden house covered with polyurethane foam can be considered protected for many years from negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures.

A modern method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam

However, this method of spraying is rarely used, as it requires special equipment and good skills, and it is quite expensive to invite a professional with special equipment. Nevertheless, it should be borne in mind that the service life of this material reaches fifty years, while other heaters become unusable after a shorter period. Therefore, having once spent on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire such properties as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, resistance to almost any external influences.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

excellent adhesion when applied;
lack of fasteners;
the material penetrates into all the small holes and crevices of the wall, preventing cold air from entering the inside of the building;
compatibility with any materials;
the formation of a seamless coating on the surface, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;
the coating does not require repair and renovation for many years;
it does not grow mold and is not damaged by rodents.

Polyurethane foam application

Any surface for mounting the sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of such a size are nailed to its surface, what thickness is planned to arrange a spray layer - this will become a kind of beacons. The protruding solidified portions of the foam will be cut along these guidelines.

When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure - more than 100 atmospheres. The master uses a pneumatic gun to spray the material on the wall surface. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2–3 seconds. The setting and curing of the polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve necessary effects heat and sound insulation, the coating should be sprayed in three layers.

Spray-on polyurethane is classified into interior and exterior materials. For external application we use "Ecotermix 300", "HEATLOK SOY"

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane to wooden walls from the inside of a house. The spraying process on the outside is practically no different.

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is a heat-insulating and sound-insulating material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its manufacture is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acidwhich are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like a gray powder.

Another method of thermal insulation of walls is spraying ecowool

The ecological purity of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds and petroleum products, other substances capable of emitting vapors hazardous to human health.

When the material is applied to the surface, it fills all holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Borax and boric acid additives are excellent antiseptics for insulation that do not allow any forms of biological life to dilute in its thickness.

An important positive quality of ecowool for a wooden building is its heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Applying an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - a crate of the required size is fixed to it - it will regulate the thickness of the spraying. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that the not completely solidified material does not slip out from under its own weight.

For spraying ecowool on walls, a special installation is required, into the bunker of which dry material is poured. There it is loosened and moistened, and is applied to the surface through a special gun under pressure. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video - The technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the above materials and technologies, today there are many other heaters. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy costs every day, then you can always find a material that is suitable for all criteria.

How to deal with the required thickness of the insulation?

The thickness of the insulating layer depends on the thickness of the wooden walls and the climatic characteristics of the region of residence.

It is important to know the required thickness of insulation. An excessive "fur coat" can only damage a wooden house, and an insufficient one will not allow creating comfortable living conditions. In addition, this parameter directly affects the structure of the frame - it is important to know how far from the wall its guides should be placed under the outer one. Making independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The bottom line is what total resistance to heat transfer of a multi-layer structure wall R should not be less than calculated for a specific climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values \u200b\u200bare plotted on the RF map. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the frame itself, but also the interior decoration (if it exists and is it planned, the thermal insulation layer and the external decoration of the facade (it is important - the external decoration made according to the principle of the ventilated facade is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal index is calculated resistance.

An example is the following diagram:

1 - wooden wall (timber or log). There is a nuance - the thickness of the log wall (on the right) may be slightly less than that of the timber. It is worth paying attention to when measuring and further calculations.

2 - walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the premises are left not sheathed - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they may well be sheathed with drywall (for painting or wallpapering), plywood, natural clapboard or panels made of wood composites, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - The layer of thermal insulation - it is its thickness that must be determined.

The design can have several layers. So, if the outside provides for a cladding without a ventilated gap, close to the thawing material (for example, using a natural board or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also marked:

4 — vapor permeable diffuse membrane.

5 - details of the frame (lathing).

6 - siding or lining, mounted on the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). Such a finish, as already mentioned, from what material it would be made, will not make any tangible contribution to the total thermal resistance of the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, in order to determine the required thickness of insulation, you need to know the thickness of each layer and the coefficient of their thermal conductivity.

Rn \u003d Hn / λn

Hn- the thickness of a particular layer.
λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form

Hу \u003d (R– H1 / λ1 - H2 / λ2 - H3 / λ3 ...) × λу

Well- the thickness of the insulation.
λуIs the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the selected thermal insulation material.

Find coefficients for various materials it is not difficult in reference books - there are a lot of them on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of the existing layers is also not difficult.

The better to insulate an old wooden house from the outside. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside so that it breathes. The better to insulate a wooden house outside: choose a material

Log houses

Material selection

How to insulate wooden houses?

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Stages of wall insulation

How to insulate the outside of the wall of a wooden house: characteristics of insulation, how to insulate a house with high quality

What material is needed to insulate the outer walls?

Requirements for materials used for wall insulation

Thermal insulation of external walls of a wooden house with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of external walls of a wooden house with foam

How to insulate a wooden house outside with your own hands: choosing the right insulation, stages of insulation

The better to insulate a wooden house outside

Mineral wool

Expanded polystyrene

Thermal insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool

Calculation of the amount of material

Surface preparation for insulation

Vapor barrier and lathing installation

Installation of thermal insulation material

Construction waterproofing and facade cladding

Thermal insulation of a wooden house with foam

What materials will be needed

What tools will be needed

Insulation of windows and doors

Expansion of the foundation

Insulation of the foundation

Insulating the walls: preliminary stage

What you need to know about a heat insulator

Vapor barrier device

Installation of battens

Installation of plates

Installation of waterproofing film

Installation of lining

Insulation of the roof of a wooden house outside

Features of the insulation of wooden houses

Varieties of materials for outdoor insulation

The procedure for insulating a house with mineral wool

Foam insulation technology

Warming with polystyrene (penoplex)

Thermal insulation of a wooden house under siding

Insulation options

Mineral wool, features of insulation

Styrofoam as insulation

Penoplex insulation (polystyrene)

Log house insulation technology outside

Expanded polystyrene

Rating of expanded polystyrene for the facade

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of expanded polystyrene insulation

Mineral wool

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Video - An example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool prices

Sprayed heaters

Polyurethane foam

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Video - The technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

How to deal with the required thickness of the insulation?

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