Connection diagram of the built-in hood to ventilation. Effective ventilation for the kitchen in the apartment and private house. Extractor for kitchen without connection to ventilation

In order for the apartment or house to have fresh and clean air, the kitchen must have very good ventilation. Natural ventilation cannot cope with the task of timely removal of odors during cooking, therefore a special forced ventilation device is hung over the stove - a kitchen hood. How to install the hood correctly, how to fix it and bring it into the ventilation system - more on that later.

Installing a hood in the kitchen is a wise decision

How to hang a cooker hood over a stove

With the correct size, it is equal in width or even slightly larger than the width of the slab. In order to properly install the hood, it must be correctly positioned and secured. The electric hood is located exactly above the stove. The installation height depends on the type of hob:

• Above the gas hob, the minimum permissible height of the hood is 75 cm.
• Above the electrical value is slightly less - 65 cm minimum.

You determine the exact height yourself - according to the height of the hostess who will cook. The bottom edge of the hood should be just above her head. It is not worth hanging lower than the minimum distance, but higher you can. But if you need to hang the equipment higher than 90 cm from the plate level, you need a unit with increased power - so that polluted air is removed efficiently.

The hood is attached depending on the type. Built-in - to a specially ordered cabinet. Hinged (flat) and domed (fireplace) - to the wall. The fireplace hoods themselves can consist of two parts - a unit with a motor and filters and a dome. Both parts are attached independently of each other, but so that their outputs coincide.

We should also mention island hoods. They are attached to the ceiling. The kit includes a suspension system and clear recommendations on what and how to do.

Installation steps

The entire installation and connection process can be broken down into several stages:

If there is an outlet nearby, there will be no problems with the electrical connection. The other stages are also not very difficult, but we will consider them in more detail.

Wall mountable or domed model

Although outwardly these two models are different, they are attached to the wall. They have four holes on the back of the case - two on the left, two on the right. Many manufacturers supply their products with a mounting template on which the locations of the fasteners are marked. All that is needed is to lean the template against the wall, transfer the marks. If there is no template, measure the distance between the holes, transfer to the wall. If there is an assistant, you can ask to hold it at the selected height, and make the marks yourself.

Then everything is simple: using a drill we make holes suitable size, insert the plastic plugs for the dowels, then hang the hood on the dowel-nails. Naturally, we check the horizontality of the installed equipment.

This method is good if the wall is flat and does not interfere. Often a gas pipe runs next to the stove, which makes it impossible to hang the hood close to the wall. In this case, you can nail wooden bars on the wall, and the hood can already be attached to the bars. This is a simple option, but not very good - the bars are covered with soot and it is difficult to wash them.

The second option to install the hood behind the pipes is to use a hairpin screw (the second name is a plumbing stud). They have a thread for screwing into the wall, a smooth part, which makes it possible to carry the hood at a certain distance from the wall and a smaller thread with two nuts, with which we will fix the body. There are these studs in different sizes, choose which one you need, but all nuts are made for a bit or an octagonal wrench.

This type of hood mounting is universal, simple in execution, and reliable. It is also more convenient to maintain - the metal is usually stainless, it is not difficult to wash it from deposits.

Installing a built-in hood in a cabinet

The built-in hood is almost completely hidden in the cabinet made for it. It is fastened in the same way as described above - on screws, only they are screwed into the walls. Only beforehand in the shelves located above it is necessary to make holes for the air duct. This is done after the hood has been purchased, since the location of the air outlet depends on the company and model.

If the locker is hanging, it is better to remove it. Install the hood in the removed cabinet, mark the location of the air outlet on the bottom shelf, cut it out. To do this, it is easier to use a jigsaw and a file with fine teeth. Almost no chips are left by the laminate file. If you wish, you can seal the cut point with a plastic C-shaped furniture profile. They are tough and flexible. It is simple to use flexible - it bends at any angle, rigid ones will have to be warmed up with a construction hairdryer before installation. These profiles are "set" on glue, most often "liquid nails" are used. After installing in place, remove the remnants of the glue (with a damp clean cloth), fix it with masking tape to the shelf. We cut off the excess profile with a file with a fine tooth, clean the cut with fine-grain sandpaper.

In the same way we make holes in other shelves. By the way, they may no longer be round, but rectangular - depending on the section of the duct you have chosen.

After that, all the shelves are installed in place, the cabinet is hung and secured. A built-in hood is attached to it with screws through the holes in the housing. Next is the process of connecting the air duct.

How to connect the hood to electricity

Since the power consumption of cooker hoods rarely exceeds 1 kW, they can be plugged into ordinary sockets. It is desirable that they be grounded. This requirement must be met if you want the warranty to be valid.

If the wiring in the apartment is old, you can throw the grounding or grounding wire yourself. Just don't fix it to water or heating pipes. This threatens with the possibility of electrical injury or even death for you, members of your slaughter or neighbors.

To stretch the ground wire, on the shield, find a bus with wires attached to it or a pipe to which a stranded wire is welded / screwed. You can also connect your own stranded wire to these devices (without folding back those that are already there). For it to work normally, the cross-section must be 2.5 mm, the conductor is stranded copper, a non-combustible sheath is desirable.

Some of the hoods come with a fork at the end. With the connection of such models, no questions asked - into the outlet and that's it. But there are models in which the cord ends with wires. This is not due to the greed of the manufacturer, but in order for the consumer to decide how best to connect the equipment. If you want - you can connect the plug. This option is not suitable - take the terminal block and connect through it. Another option is Wago terminal blocks. They need to take three pieces - according to the number of wires. In one terminal block, the same wires are connected from the hood and from the shield - phase with phase (here the colors may be different), zero (blue or blue) with zero, ground (yellow-green) with ground.

Cooker hood air duct

One of the stages of installing the hood is the selection and installation of air ducts. Air at room temperature is removed from the kitchen, therefore there are no special requirements for air ducts and any can be used. Three types are commonly used:

There is also a difference between a plastic and a corrugated duct - the price. Polymers are more expensive. Despite this, if you have the opportunity to install a hood using PVC, install them. With the same cross-section, they provide more efficient air discharge and also produce less noise.

The cross-section of the duct pipes is determined by the size of the outlet on the hood. In the case of rectangular pipes, an adapter is used.

Dimensions of air ducts for hoods

Round air ducts are available in three sizes: 100 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm. This is the diameter plastic pipes and corrugated sleeves. There are more cross-sections of flat air ducts and they are presented in the table.

How to choose the size? In case of round pipes their diameter should match the diameter of the exhaust outlet. It is very undesirable to put an adapter on the outlet, and then use a smaller diameter air duct - this will reduce the speed of air purification. And even if the hood is very powerful, then it will not cope with air purification.

With the choice of the cross-section of a rectangular duct - its cross-sectional area should not be less area section of the outlet pipe. And the connection is made through a suitable adapter.

How to attach the corrugation to the hood and ventilation

If you decide to install the hood and use an aluminum corrugation for the duct, you will need to think about how to attach it to the cabinet and to the ventilation. To do this, you will need clamps of a suitable size. They can be metal or plastic.

To connect the hood to the ventilation system, you will also need a special ventilation grill. It has a hole in the upper part for connecting the air duct pipe. In the lower part there are holes for removing air from the kitchen using natural circulation when the hood is not working.

For fastening the corrugation, a lattice with a protrusion is suitable - there is a rim of several centimeters around the hole, on which the corrugation is put on, after which it is fastened using a clamp of a suitable size.

According to the same principle, the corrugated duct is attached to the hood. It has a ledge on which the corrugation is put on. The connection is tightened with a clamp.

How to fix the duct to the walls

For plastic air ducts there are special fasteners in the form of latches. They are first mounted on the wall using dowels. The installation step depends on the curvature of the route, but on average 1 fastener per 50-60 cm is sufficient. Pipes are inserted into these latches during installation with little effort.

If the duct is to be fixed to the ceiling, the same fixings can be used. But if it is necessary to maintain a certain distance from the ceiling, this type of installation will not work. In such cases, they take perforated drywall hangers, fix them to the ceiling, then to them with small PVC screws an air duct for the hood.

Corrugated air ducts are attached to the walls using clamps or large plastic ties. If necessary, they are also mounted to the ceiling using perforated aluminum hangers.

Where and how to bring the air duct

Most often, the air duct from the hood in the kitchen is connected to the ventilation hole through which natural ventilation (due to the draft) flows. This is wrong, since in this case most of the grille is closed by the air duct, and the exchange of air through the remaining openings will be clearly insufficient.

Correctly connect the air duct to a separate ventilation duct. In this case, the same grille is installed on the hole as in the photo above.

If there is no separate ventilation duct, but there is outer wall, you can take the pipe outside by placing a grate outside. These are two ways to have adequate ventilation and to ensure that the hood works properly.

How to take outside

To install the hood and bring the air duct into the wall, you need to make a hole in it. And this is the only difficulty. Next, an air duct is inserted into this hole, sealed with a solution. Outside, the hole is closed with a lattice - so that no debris gets in, birds and small animals do not settle.

To prevent air from blowing into the room from the street, a check valve is installed (in the figure above, it is indicated by an oblique line). By the way, it is advisable to install it when connecting the air duct to the ventilation system - so that odors from the pipes do not enter the room.

The non-return or anti-return air valve is a lightweight plastic or metal plate. It is movably attached in two places to the pipe - above and below, the petals are supported by a light spring. While the hood is not working, the valve closes off the air from the outside. When the hood is turned on, the air flow bends the plate forward, depressing the spring. As soon as the hood is turned off, the plate is returned to its place by means of springs. If you install a hood without this valve, it may be too cold in the kitchen in winter - outside air will easily enter the room.

So that the hood does not interfere with natural ventilation in the kitchen

By the way, with the help of a tee and a check valve, you can install the hood so that it does not interfere with the natural ventilation in the kitchen. You will need a special ventilation grill to connect the hoods, a check valve and a tee. A tee is attached to the vent grating, an air duct from the hood is connected to its lower inlet, and a check valve is placed on the free outlet, then only so that the petals are locked when air passes from the pipe (pictured below).

How does such a system work? When the hood is turned off, the petals of the check valve are bent, air from the kitchen enters the ventilation duct through the grate and the open outlet of the tee. When the hood is turned on, the air flow from it unfolds the valve plate, and the air goes into the ventilation system. When the hood is turned off, the springs open the air again through the tee.

Outwardly, such a system does not look very attractive and it will have to be masked in some way. But this is the only way to connect the hood to the only existing ventilation outlet and not reduce air exchange.

No matter what they say, installing a hood in the kitchen should be considered a must. Judge for yourself. In the absence of a system for removing or cleaning vapors rising from the stove or hob, the owners acquire a lot of completely unnecessary problems. Steam, which spreads freely throughout the kitchen, is already capable of condensing on walls, ceilings, pieces of furniture - they will be constantly wet, which does not benefit them in any way.

In addition, in most cases, this vapor also contains a fatty component, which will surely show up with stubborn stains. How long will the kitchen finish last in such conditions? And if you consider that the preparation of some dishes is not always accompanied by only pleasant aromas, and these smells tend to spread throughout the apartment ...

In a word, all doubts must go away. The hood is essential!

The assortment of stores presents a lot of models of hoods of various types and sizes. There is plenty to choose from for a specific kitchen, taking into account the peculiarities of its layout and kitchen furniture... And to install this device on your own is within the power of most good owners who know how to use a basic set of home tools. And to help them there will be a real publication, in which it is considered step by step how to connect an extractor hood in the kitchen with your own hands.

A few words about the varieties of kitchen hoods

The purpose of this publication is not to consider the entire variety of kitchen hoods and give recommendations on choosing the optimal model. However, there is still a need to touch on some questions, since they directly affect the process of installing the device itself.

First of all, the hoods should be divided into two large groups.

• The first includes devices for which the term "hood" fully corresponds to the principle of their operation. Indeed, the functional purpose of such models is to collect all vapors rising from the stove and remove them outside the kitchen through channels specially prepared for this.

A regular ventilation duct (subject to certain conditions) or a specially made hole in the wall leading directly to the street can be used as ways of removing the collected vapors. From the installed hood to the ventilation outlet or exit to the street, an air duct is laid from metal or plastic pipes or boxes.

Filtration of air before it enters the air duct system is still necessary - otherwise the channels will quickly become overgrown with fatty layers, on which a dense, hard-to-remove "carpet" of dust will then fall. In addition, this coating quickly covers the fan impeller. But this problem is easily solved by the presence of only grease filters - metal, subject to periodic washing, or very inexpensive fabric filters.

• The second group consists of hoods, which, in fact, do not pull vapors outside, but forcibly pass them through a cascade of filters. The stream rising from the stove is cleaned of grease and possible soot; a special filter neutralizes odors. And then all the purified air in full returns to the kitchen.

It is clear that the "installation" of such a device is much easier. It is only required to fix the hood on the wall above the stove and turn on the power supply. But the efficiency of air purification in the kitchen is still incomparably lower. In addition, you will have to purchase and replace filters quite often - otherwise, the use of such a hood completely loses its meaning.

I must say that such a division is very arbitrary. The fact is that the vast majority of models of kitchen hoods are designed to work in any of the specified modes. That is, all the difference will be precisely in matters and equipping it with the necessary cascade of filters. There are, of course, models designed exclusively for diversion or recirculation, but this is rather an exception to the general trend. So the connection scheme, by and large, depends on the wishes of the owners of the kitchen.

Prices for cooker hood "ELIKOR"

cooker hood "ELIKOR"

The same model can be installed both for evacuation of vapors outside the kitchen and for recirculation of air

The hood differs in the installation features.

• Wall models, as the name implies, are attached directly to the wall. For their installation, standard brackets or the included mounting panels with hooks can be used. For many hoods, the ends of the fasteners (dowels) with hats protruding from the wall are enough - there are ordinary curly cutouts on the back of the device.

Almost all dome-type hoods belong to wall models. By the way, they can also differ in the place of installation - there are models designed specifically for installation in a corner, if that is where the stove or hob is located.

• Suspended hoods are attached to the lower plane of a cabinet or shelf located above the plate. These are usually small models in height and weight. To pass the duct pipe in the bottom of the cabinet or in the shelf, you will have to cut the corresponding window.

• Built-in hoods are, of course, specially designed to be placed inside kitchen furniture above the hob. It can also be a special cabinet, which is purchased simultaneously with the hood. Or the device is matched to the incoming kitchen set cabinet, in which the installation of the hood is just structurally provided. And finally, the skillful hands of the good home master they may well alter an ordinary cabinet for the installation of such a device, or make the necessary one "from scratch" independently.

• Finally, in spacious kitchens with a non-standard arrangement of furniture and equipment, island-type hoods can also be used. They are attached to ceiling surface through special devices... Due to the fact that such devices are rarely found, they will not be considered in the future in the course of this publication.

The island hood is attached to the kitchen ceiling

In any case, instructions for its installation will be attached to the purchased new hood, which should be followed. Some manufacturers attach a special template to the instructions, which minimizes the likelihood of mistakes when marking.

Several important requirements for installing a kitchen hood

Both when choosing and installing the device, it is always necessary to keep in mind a number of important nuances.

• First of all, the hood for the kitchen should be purchased not only and not so much for reasons of compactness or suitable for the overall design of the appearance. In order for the device to cope with its main task, it must have the required performance.

Usually it is based on the calculation of tenfold air exchange. That is, the volume (it is easy to determine it by the usual multiplication of the length, width and height of the room) of the kitchen should be multiplied by ten - it is such an array of air that the hood should be able to pump within an hour.

To exclude surprises associated, for example, with a sharp pressure drop in the ventilation shaft or with clogging of air ducts with a violation of the passability, it is better to take this coefficient not 10, but even 12 ÷ 13. The path will have a small operational margin.

• The site of the planned installation of the device should be examined and evaluated in advance. If you intend to mount to a wall, then there must be enough space for this. Well, the wall itself, of course, must be strong enough, with the proper bearing capacity to withstand the load from the device being hung.
• A very common occurrence - it descends along the wall to the slab metal pipe gas pipeline. It is strictly forbidden to change its position on your own, and calling the masters for alteration may require a lot of additional costs. The way out is to install the hood with a small indent from the wall, but for this you have to think over special brackets or fasteners or fix a gasket on the wall surface, for example, a wooden bar.

Prices for cooker hood "Bosch"

hood "Bosch"

• The installation height of the hood must also obey certain rules. It is clear that the first place should be on the safety of the device. Therefore, it is forbidden to place the hood closer than 700 mm from gas stove and 600 - from electric. The growth of the owners should also be taken into account - so that the head does not bang against the device when cooking. But it is also not recommended to "lift" the installation height unnecessarily - this negatively affects the efficiency of removal and filtration of rising vapors. The optimal height seems to be from 750 to 850 mm.

There are, however, exceptions to the rule. So, some modern hoods with a working surface located at an angle to the horizon can be placed slightly lower. But this is necessarily specified by the manufacturer in the operating instructions for a particular model.

By the way, when purchasing a hood of this type, you should pay attention to one more circumstance. Some models are designed to work exclusively with electric cookers. That is, their use in tandem with gas equipment is strictly prohibited.

• Again, based on considerations of the efficiency of the hood, you should purchase a model whose dimensions (meaning the area of \u200b\u200bthe receiving "screen") is in any case no less than the dimensions of the plate. Moreover, the higher it is planned to install the hood above the stove (taking into account, for example, the growth of the owners), the larger the size of the working surface should be, otherwise the fumes can spread through the kitchen, flowing around the device around the edges.

The diagram above is presented as an example. And so, if you plan the location and optimal sizes working surface of the hood, you can proceed from the following recommendation. It is shown schematically in the illustration below.

The boundaries of the hood should be wider than the slab, and not less than the width, limited by conditional lines drawn through the boundaries of the slab, diverging outward at an angle of 10 degrees from the vertical. For electric stoves, you can limit yourself to an angle of 7 degrees. This is explained by the fact that the hood above the gas stove must catch and remove not only the fumes arising from cooking, but also the products of fuel combustion. That is, her task is more responsible.

Prices for built-in hoods "MAUNFELD"

Built-in cooker hood MAUNFELD

For your conditions, it is easy to draw such a graphic diagram on a scale yourself, and then compare the desired mounting height of the hood and its recommended width for such an arrangement. Or carry out a mathematical calculation, remembering elementary geometric formulas.

This calculation is implemented in the proposed online calculator.

During cooking, soot appears in the kitchen, which settles on the walls and ceiling. The air is filled with harmful impurities and carcinogens, which are released with combustion products.

To eliminate soot from cooking, smoke and other unpleasant odors did not poison your life, you need to purchase and install the hood.

Connection of ventilation and a good hood will help to get rid of these troubles. It is capable of not only purifying the air, but also extending the life of furniture and furnishings in the kitchen.How to connect the hood to ventilation, what needs to be done for this - more on that later.

Types of exhaust devices

Choosing a hood and installing it in the kitchen should be thoughtful. The stores have a huge assortment of these products and accessories for them. All of them are divided according to the principle of action into several types:

Hoods are island, corner, wall and built-in.

1. Classic devices, during operation, remove all polluted air from the room through a standard ventilation channel.
2. Recirculation hoods suck in dirty air, clean it with built-in filters and return the cleaned air back to the kitchen.
3. Combined type hoods are capable of operating on the principle of both classical devices and in filtration mode.

The hood installation method divides these devices into categories:

1. Built-in appliances. They are designed to be installed inside kitchen furniture, which is located above the stove.
2. Suspended devices. These hoods are suspended above the stove.
3. Wall-mounted devices. The name itself indicates that they are wall mounted.
4. Island units. Not quite familiar, as they are attached to the ceiling approximately in the middle of the kitchen.
5. Corner hoods. Their usual location is in the corner of the kitchen.

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Choosing the right device

Each kitchen requires the connection of a hood of a certain power, on which the performance of the device depends. Productivity is the amount of air in cubic meters that the hood is able to pass per hour of operation. In Russia, standards have been established according to which a complete renewal of the air in the kitchen room must occur 12 times within an hour. It is simple to calculate this value: we multiply the volume of the room by 12. To this figure, add 30%. It compensates for losses in the duct due to its length, bends and other reasons.

A concrete example: the width of the kitchen is 3 m, the length is 4 m, and the height to the ceiling is 3 m. The volume of the room will be 3x4x3 \u003d 36 m³. This figure is multiplied by 12 and it turns out 36x12 \u003d 432 m³. You need to add 30% to this figure, you get 432 + 30% \u003d 561.6 m³. Such a volume of air must be pumped by the hood to ensure the normal state of air in the kitchen.

When choosing a device, not the last place is taken by the indicator of the noise level emitted by the hood. If it exceeds 50 dB, it is better to refuse such a device. There are many models that operate almost silently.

Built-in hood device: 1 - control panel; 2 - case; 3 - reusable grease aluminum filters; 4 - lighting lamps; 5 - pull-out panel.

You can choose a plastic or corrugated air duct for the kitchen. Plastic is usually made of PVC. The pipes are very light and strong. Air passes through them silently, since the inside of the pipe walls are smooth. The corrugated aluminum pipe can bend freely, it does not buzz or vibrate when the hood is in operation. The disadvantage of this material is that it doesn't look very attractive. Such pipes are usually hidden behind drywall panels, if possible.

When choosing a hood, you should pay attention to some nice additions that some models are equipped with:

1. Indicator that shows the degree of clogging of the filter in the recirculation device.
2. Built-in lamps to illuminate the work area.
3. The system of automatic switching on of the hood when the stove is turned on.
4. Timer. It can be set for a certain time, after which the device will be disconnected from the network.
5. Switching on and off with the remote control.
6. Possibility of choosing different modes of operation of the device.

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How to properly mount the hood?

Any hood is mounted in compliance with certain rules. Only in this case can the safety and stability of its work be ensured. The device is installed in most cases above the stove at a height of 70-85 cm from its surface. At a shorter distance, the hood may fail due to overheating. If it is mounted very high, then its efficiency will be significantly reduced. The width of the exhaust device must not be less than the width of the gas or electric stove... This size must be considered when choosing and purchasing a device.

Connecting a recirculation hood is the easiest option. These devices do not discharge contaminated air outside. They only filter it, all soot and carbon particles remain in the filter material, and the cleaned air enters the kitchen again. There is no need to connect the device to the ventilation system. The device is simply firmly attached to the wall and connected to the electrical network through a pre-installed socket near the stove.

Installing a device that completely removes contaminated air through the ventilation system is a much more difficult task. The hood must not only be attached to the wall, but also connected to the duct of the ventilation system. If the stove is located far from the ventilation shaft, but close to the window, then it is possible to equip the outlet of polluted air to the outside through a specially made hole in the wall. It will be easier than pulling long ducts through the kitchen, which does not add beauty and grace to the room.

In typical apartments, the task is simplified by the fact that special adapters, pipes and clamps sold in stores are excellent for connecting the hood to ventilation. It remains only to connect them tightly enough to each other. When doing work, you need to follow several rules:

1. The pipe from the hood must not completely cover the ventilation duct. It should ventilate the kitchen area naturally while the hood is off.
2. The air duct leading to the ventilation opening from the hood must be installed in such a way that contaminated air can flow freely.
3. The number of turns and the total length of the duct should be as small as possible. Approximately 10% of the exhaust power is consumed for each bend in the duct.
4. It is better to choose plastic pipes. They have completely smooth inner walls. Corrugated pipes with their ribbed surface trap the air flow. They emit an increased noise level.
5. All necessary turns of the duct should be made as smooth as possible.
6. The room must constantly receive fresh air from the street.
7. The optimum diameter of the duct pipes is 12-15 cm.

If you decide to install a hood, you should think about connecting it in advance. First of all, we are talking about the outlet to ventilation and power supply. Some features relate directly to installation. Only in compliance with all the rules will the device cope with the functions assigned to it.

If we talk about design differences, hoods are divided into wall, table, island,. Wall-mounted models are often made in a round and rectangular shape, which allows you to cover the entire surface of the hob. Built-in ones are practically invisible to the eye, because they fit into the furniture profile.

Compact tabletop hoods are installed about, - today it is in demand on small kitchens. Island - a popular option for spacious rooms. Models are suspended in the ceiling area above.

Modern exhaust technology is presented in three forms:

In recirculation, air passes through the filters and returns to the room.

At the outlet, air masses are discharged into the ventilation hole. Combined ones can work in any of the indicated modes.

The connection principle directly depends on, so I advise you to think over all the subtleties in advance and purchase the best option.

The nuances of preparation

To make the connection less hassle, you should decide on the location of the equipment. Do not be too lazy to check the quality of the walls - the surface must be solid and strong. Ideally, the hood should hang on concrete or brick, the reliability of fasteners plays an important role.

Correctly placed the air cleaner must be installed at a certain level from the hob:

• over - for direct hoods it is 75-85 cm, for inclined ones - 55-65 cm;
• over (traditional, induction) - for inclined - 35-45 cm, for straight lines - 65-75 cm.

Carefully observe the lower limits, otherwise the equipment will fail and melt as a result of heating. It is better to fit the upper ones to the growth of the owner or hostess. The width must match.

In general, the installation of a structure can be divided into three stages:

• mounting the device to a wall or ceiling or into a cabinet;
• power supply connection;
• connection of the air duct and its outlet to the ventilation duct (for hoods operating on the outlet).

If the hood is recirculated

There is no need for a connection to the ventilation shaft, since similar ones are outside the room. The efficiency of operation depends entirely on the quality of the filters and the correctly selected performance.

Installing the system is not difficult. The device is mounted and connected to electricity. Fixation points on a wall or other surface are pre-marked and drilled with a drill.

If a

Here things are a little more complicated, since it is extremely important to correctly install the air duct. It can be made on a semi-rigid base, made of aluminum, plastic. The most problematic installation will be the plastic version.

For laying PVC ducts, adapters, vertical, horizontal elbows are required (configuration of the letter "G"), ventilation grates, reducers. The latter will be needed when joining a round diameter and rectangular shapes.

Most of the parts are supplied in the kit, but some will have to be purchased separately. Carry out the installation with the help of specialists. Then the system will last a long time and will emit a minimum of noise.

If a

Such models are almost completely hidden in the furniture profile. Holes for the duct are cut in the shelves. This is done after purchasing the appliance, as the placement of the grooves depends on the hood model. The structure itself is attached to the walls of the furniture with screws.

Mounting the hood to the wall

Domes are attached to the wall,... If we talk about the fireplace type, air purifiers can consist of two parts. This is the dome and the unit itself with the engine and filters. Both parts are fixed independently of each other, but with complete coincidence of the outputs. Island varieties are placed on the ceiling with suspension systems included in the kit. Built-in - into the furniture profile.

Before installation, I advise you to check the serviceability of the device - any instructions say this. Do not rush to remove all protective films and stickers before making sure that the air cleaner is working. To do this, lay it on a flat surface, connect it to the mains and check it in all operating modes.

If no malfunctions have been identified, you can proceed with the installation, which is best done together. If you notice extraneous noise, lack of functions, feel free to contact the warranty workshop or the store where you purchased the device.

Most manufacturers equip the kit with a mounting template, where the places for fastening are marked... You can lean it against the wall and transfer all the marks.

If there is no template, proceed as follows:

• on the wall we mark the distance between the holes for fastening. For this, the device is applied to the surface;
• we apply markings, taking into account the height of the device in relation to the hob;
• we drill holes. Their diameter must match the diameter of the dowels;
• insert dowel plugs into the holes;
• we hang the case on the dowel nails. I advise you to check the installation of equipment horizontally;
• then the connection to the ventilation duct and electricity is carried out;
• after finishing work with the main system, the installation is completed by installing the duct boxes.

Known nuances

The described installation method is good if the house has flat walls and nothing interferes with the work. If a gas pipe runs near your stove, it will not allow the appliance to be placed close to the wall.... In such a situation, craftsmen advise to fix wooden blocks on the wall, and to them the air cleaner itself. However, I advise you to refrain from such actions. During operation, problems with cleaning will arise; in general, the design itself is unreliable.

Alternative and more rational option - install equipment behind the pipes... To do this, take a stud screw (plumbing). The stud has a thread for screwing it into the wall, a pin for removing the hood to a distance from the wall and a thread with nuts for fixing the body.

These pieces come in different sizes and are available for purchase at every hardware store. You can take any most suitable option, I will only note that all nuts are designed for an octagonal wrench. This is a universal solution, more reliable than wood, moreover, the metal does not rust and is easy to clean.

If, act like this:

• the location of the air duct is marked on the shelves of the cabinet, a hole is cut. It is convenient to do this using a jigsaw with a fine-toothed file. You can take a file for laminate flooring, it practically leaves no chips;
• if desired, the cut section can be closed with a C-shaped plastic furniture profile. He can be tough and flexible. The second option is very easy to use. This profile can be bent at any angle. The hard ones are heated with a building hair dryer. The profile is fixed with glue or liquid nails. The excess can be cut off with a fine-toothed file;
• then the process is repeated on all shelves, the cabinet is hung in place;
• the built-in hood is fixed with screws. After that, you can start working with the air duct.

The nuances of connecting to the duct

Require selection and installation of air ducts. Air at room temperature will be removed through this channel, so the choice can be simplified and any option can be used.

In practice, three types are used:

• corrugated aluminum sleeve... The features of the material allow you to give the tract almost any shape. The corrugation really bends at any angle. You just need to purchase a piece of the required length and place it in the desired shape. However, air flow will cause resonance, noise. The second minus is the ribbed surface, in the grooves and recesses grease, dust likes to settle, they create obstacles to the air flow. Difficulty scrubbing may be encountered;
• round plastic duct (PVC)... Round polymer pipes are very easy to use. I have already noted that the structure is assembled using shaped elements - couplings, roundings, elbows, adapters, bends. The elements are connected to the pipe by means of extensions, all joints are treated with a sealant. The system is quiet. Due to the smooth inner walls, there will be no obstacles to the movement of air masses. The air duct is easy to clean. Minus, perhaps, one - a somewhat problematic assembly;
• square plastic duct... The only difference is the rectangular section. This option allows you to save useful space, it is well masked behind suspended, stretch ceilings, plasterboard partitions... Here, adapters for joining round and square sections are necessarily used.

The indicated materials differ in price. Polymer air ducts will cost more... It is worth it, however, as you get more efficient airflow and less cleaning headaches. The cross-section of the pipes depends on the diameter of the exhaust outlet.

But, in the case of polymers, there are several additional nuances: if the ventilation system is located directly above hob, docking with the hood is carried out through adapters that are fixed both on the device and on the ventilation hole. Connecting elbows will help get rid of corners.

Nonetheless, plastic varieties have a more attractive appearance and can be safely placed on top of kitchen cabinets.

Features of fastening the corrugation to the ventilation system and hood

Corrugation is more often in demand when installing air ducts in a cabinet. There are no particular difficulties with laying, and the material is quite affordable, it bends perfectly, incl. on corner zones, which eliminates the need to use adapters.

Flatten the corrugated duct before installation... So you will somewhat smooth out the main disadvantage of such systems. This will significantly reduce the noise generated during the operation of the device. In order to select the correct material, take into account the diameter of the outlet of the hood. The corrugation is attached to the device using a clamp of a suitable size, to the ventilation - with a grid.

Features of additional materials:

• clamps can be plastic or metal;
• the ventilation grill must be special. There should be a hole in the upper part of the product to fix the round corrugated pipe. Below is a grill for air removal during natural circulation, when the hood is not active;
• please note that only lug grilles are suitable to securely fix the duct. These are special bumpers located around the hole. It is here that the corrugation is put on, after which the clamp clings. The same principle applies when connecting the duct to the device. The hood also has a ledge on which you should put on a corrugation. The joint is tightened with a clamp.

I would like to note that during operation, grease, soot and soot accumulate in air ducts of any type. All this needs to be cleaned regularly. Frequency - approximately twice a year... In addition to cleaning, you can resort to a complete replacement. Be that as it may, dirt cannot be left inside. Air movement will be impeded and the likelihood of fire will increase significantly.

• never deliberately reduce the diameter of the duct... If necessary, use an adapter, reducing the size to a minimum;
• if a ventilation ducts can only be laid through the attic or other rooms, the air will be pre-cooled. Condensation will occur in some areas of the system... During operation, the traction force will decrease, possibly mold will appear. Therefore, the system should be overlaid with thermal insulation materials.

How to choose the cross-section of the duct

If we talk about round plastic or corrugated pipes, they are presented in three standard sizes: 100/125/150 mm in diameter. There are much more rectangular varieties - from 55 * 110 * 750 mm to 60 * 204 * 1000 mm.

Round air ducts are selected so that the diameter of the exhaust outlet matches the diameter of the pipe... It is undesirable to put an adapter at the exit or reduce the diameter. This will reduce the efficiency of air purification. When selecting the cross-section of rectangular pipes, they are guided by the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe outlet pipe. The joints are realized with a suitable adapter.

How to connect the hood to the ventilation system

Installation features depend on the method of connecting equipment to ventilation. You can arrange access to a common mine shaft or immediately outside the premises. The latter option provides a significant ease of installation.

But, main part... But there are pitfalls here. When soot accumulates in ventilation pipe there may be a violation of air exchange in other apartments or the formation of an air lock, blocking the outflow of air. In addition, most of the grill is covered with an air duct, which leaves minimal conditions for normal air exchange in the kitchen.

To prevent the hood from interfering with natural ventilation, you can proceed as follows:

• we take a special grill for hoods, a tee and a check valve;
• we attach a tee to the lattice;
• we attach an air duct to the lower entrance of the grille;
• we put a check valve on the free outlet so that its strips are locked when the air flow passes from the pipe;
• the point is that when the hood is in operation, the valve petals are bent. Air from the kitchen enters the ventilation duct through the open outlet of the tee and the grill. When the device is resting, the valve plates unfold, air goes into the ventilation system.

If you are not sure if you are ready to regularly clean the entire system, stop at a direct outlet outside the room. You will need to drill a hole in the outer wall with a diamond drill. A protective grill with a check valve is installed outside, and an air duct inside. The gaps are sealed with mortar... The hood is connected to the system. In special cases, the connection is made to a separate ventilation duct.

Note that the anti-return or non-return valve is a light metal or plastic plate... It is movably fixed on two pipe sections (bottom and top). The valve petals are spring-supported. While the air cleaner is not working, the fins block the access to the outside air. When the device is in operation, the air flow bends the plates forward by depressing the spring.

How to mount the system on a wall

Regardless of the type of connection, you should think about how to fix the air duct on the wall.

Several rules work here:

• special fasteners are provided on the plastic air ducts. They represent a kind of latches;
• latches are first fixed to the wall by means of dowels;
• choose the installation step taking into account the curvature of the route. As a rule, a step of 50-60 cm is optimal;
• pipes are forcefully inserted into ready-made latches;
• if corrugation is used, fixation is carried out using clamps. It is permissible to use special large plastic ties.

The same method can be used to fix the structure to the ceiling. If a certain distance must be maintained, use perforated hangers from plasterboard systems. They are fixed to the ceiling, and to them - the duct itself.

Connecting the hood to the mains

In fact, this stage can be implemented in several ways. But, only a specialist can install and connect the device to the mains. Almost all hoods operate from a 220-230 V, 50 Hz electrical network... This allows them to be powered from a regular outlet.

To avoid blows electric shock the socket must be earthed. This will also help to maintain all warranty obligations. If the apartment has old wiring and you have good skills, you can throw the ground wire yourself. Note that it cannot be attached to heating or plumbing pipes.

This is done as follows:

• on the shield you should find a bus with attached wires. You can also find a pipe with a stranded wire screwed on or welded on;
• they connect their own stranded wire to these devices, without throwing back those that are already there;
• for the grounding to work properly, the wire cross-section must be 2.5 mm. The conductor is a stranded copper conductor with a non-combustible sheath.

To ensure protection against voltage surges, the connection is made through an additional circuit breaker (line filter). To protect all equipment, I recommend investing in a stabilizer. A good electrician will install it in a matter of hours.

If the hood is without a plug

Some devices are delivered without a plug at the end... Their cords end in wires. This is done so that the user himself can decide how to optimally connect the equipment. Several options are possible here. The first is connecting to the plug wires and then powering from the outlet.

The second is through the terminal blocks (Wago). Their number is taken by the number of wires. Identical wires from the hood and the shield are connected in one terminal block. For example, grounding with grounding (yellow-green wire), phase with phase (there may be different colour), zero with zero (blue or blue wire). The third option is connection via a terminal block.

Connection via terminal blocks is considered unsafe and is not recommended.... Plus, it's inconvenient. If you need to turn off the device, it will be more difficult to disconnect all the wires.

What should be the outlet for the hood

The main parameter for choosing an outlet for the hood is the degree of its protection. According to electrical safety standards, products with an IP62 or higher marking are suitable for the kitchen (protection against a strong jet of water).

In addition, I advise you to pay attention to the material. Do not take cheap plastic, it melts more easily and quickly breaks down... The build quality is not the least important - there should be no backlashes, otherwise fat, dust, and soot will quickly be packed inside. And the last - the obligatory presence of "curtains". That way, nothing but a fork will get inside.

To choose the location of the outlet, be guided by the following rules:

• the most important thing is to decide at what height and where the device will be placed. We must start from this;
• the minimum distance from furniture (tables, cabinets, etc.) to the power supply point is 20 cm;
• the socket must not be installed close to the hood housing. It is necessary to step back about 30 cm to the side;
• the total power of kitchen appliances should not exceed 4 kW. Otherwise, a separate line will have to be drawn for the hood, which will eliminate overloads;
• the recommended installation height is 1.8-2.0 m from the floor.

note that in the case of the socket, it can be installed in the closet after the furniture has been completely installed... In this case, the socket must be installed on a non-combustible base (these are the rules of the PUE). With island models it is more difficult - here the power is realized by direct connection to the wiring, but it is better to arrange a power point under the ceiling. Direct connection is not so secure.

findings

In general, the successful connection of the hood is based on three pillars: correct installation to a wall, ceiling or in a cabinet, correct connection to ventilation and power supply. The installation is not so difficult, but it is better to entrust the work with an electrician and air ducts to professionals.

Most multi-storey buildings have a permanent ventilation and ventilation system. It has access to each apartment in the bathroom and in the kitchen. Therefore, residents can connect to it and provide their homes with clean air and additional comfort.

The main air vent is located in the kitchen. This room is especially actively saturated with harmful, humid air formed during cooking, and fats splashed from frying. It is especially necessary to maintain a favorable microclimate in it, to eliminate unpleasant odors. This role is assigned to a kitchen hood connected to the general ventilation system of the house or working independently.

Manufacturers produce different hoods that are mounted over stoves and hobs and have an outlet to the ventilation system. By purchasing this device, the consumer gets the opportunity to provide installation services by professionals. However, the device can be connected to centralized ventilation with your own hands, knowing the specifics of performing these works.

How the cooker hood works

The cooker hood is a simple construction. It consists of the following parts:

• engine;
• fan;
• cleaning filters.

The principle of operation of the device is to create air draft. It promotes the passage of "dirty" air through the filtration system and cleaning it from impurities.

In terms of functional features, these devices are of two types.

1. The circulating hoods absorb the kitchen air, which is saturated with harmful components, due to the draft generated by the operation of the fans. Passing through the cleaning system, the air masses return back to the room absolutely clean. There are two filters in the circulating type device: one retains fat and soot, the other - odors. The first one is made of non-woven or synthetic winterizer fabric. In some models, it is replaced by a metal version. For long-term operation of the device, the filters are periodically changed. This entails additional costs for maintaining the circulating hood and makes it less popular.
2. A flow-through device is considered more practical and effective. When it is working, the "dirty" air from the kitchen goes out into the street without returning to the room. It does not use a carbon filter. It is replaced by a special grease element and a layer that protects system parts from dirt and grease. Models without one require special care conditions: they must be cleaned periodically. A household appliance with such an air purification system is the best option for a home kitchen.

Features of installing kitchen hoods

The process of installing a kitchen hood with a connection to a ventilation system with your own hands depends on the type of device. Manufacturers produce different models:

• suspended;

• wall-mounted;

• corner;

• built-in;

• island.

Each of them can be circulating or flowing.

Installation of a household air cleaner is not difficult for specialists. If you want to connect it with your own hands, the apartment owners should take into account important points.

• The most in a simple way connection of the hood to the ventilation outlet is the use of a corrugated pipe. It does not suit aesthetes, as it spoils appearance kitchen. During operation, the corrugation makes a lot of noise, which causes discomfort.

• Sometimes it is necessary to make changes in the design of the exhaust device on site, taking into account the structural features of the stationary ventilation. It can become clogged or damaged due to prolonged inactivity. In this case, skills in the reconstruction of household appliances and certain tools will be needed.
• When self-assembly the kitchen hood must be correctly measured, take into account the height of the ceilings and the dimensions of the room, the location electrical outlet to connect the air cleaner power supply. This will allow the cone to be brought to the vent as accurately as possible.
• When installing the air cleaner with his own hands, the owner should know that a large number of connections and bends will lead to a malfunction of the system. A pipe connection angle over 90 degrees will create additional loads on the device. It can malfunction and fail quickly.

Installation and connection of the kitchen hood to ventilation

The most common option for an air purifier is to purchase and mount a wall-mounted unit.

• On the surface of the wall above the hob surface, the fixing points of the box are measured.

It is important to take into account the generally accepted norms for the location of the device: the distance from the lower level of the exhaust device to the gas stove should be 75 cm, for an electric one - 65 cm.

• According to this marking, holes are drilled into which the dowel-nails are inserted.
• Self-tapping screws are screwed into them along the mounting holes in the box itself, fixing the main device.
• Next, the air vent pipe is installed, aligning the hole in the box with the ventilation outlet in the wall. To do this, use a fixing clamp.
• All joints are filled with a hermetic compound.

During the installation process, you must follow the instructions that accompany the device, and take into account the location of the electrical outlet. You may need to equip additional source nutrition.

To prevent the air cleaner from spoiling the interior design of the kitchen, they use the built-in installation method. In this case, the device is mounted in a furniture cabinet equipped with doors in accordance with the general design of the facades.

1. First, a wooden box with holes drilled in it for fasteners and the outlet of the ventilation pipe (corrugated hose or PVC channel) is attached to the wall at the normatively established height.
2. The device itself is inserted into it.
3. A pipe is attached to it and brought out through the hole in the furniture into the ventilation outlet.
4. A special clamp is usually sold with the hood, which helps to fix the parts. If not, you need to buy. It is important to take into account the diameter of both elements.
5. After carrying out and checking the operation of the device, the doors are mounted on the cabinet. They completely hide the air cleaner and dirty air outlet system.

Connecting a kitchen hood to ventilation with your own hands requires attention and following the instructions. These nuances will allow you to create effective system air purification in a residential area.