How to insulate walls in a private house. How to properly insulate a private house. Installation of vapor barrier and waterproofing

The main thing is the weather in the house - these words from the song better than any other reflect the most important characteristic of any home. Really, good house - this is a warm house, therefore, the main task solved during the construction of a house is high-quality insulation.

It should be understood that insulating a house at the construction stage and insulating an already built house are completely different tasks.

The first is solved either by erecting walls from energy-efficient building materials - wood, foam concrete, etc., or, for example, during construction frame houses filling cavities inside the frame walls with energy-efficient thermal insulation materials. As a result, the house being built is initially warm enough.

In the second case, if mistakes were made during construction or there was a need to rebuild a house that was not originally intended for living in winter time, all work on additional insulation is carried out only outside.

Insulation objects

What needs to be insulated so that the “weather in the house” is good at any time of the year:

• basement - needs insulation if a warm basement is needed;
• the floor of the first floor - it always makes sense to insulate, even if there is a warm basement under it;
• walls are the most important object of heat loss;
• interfloor floors - if the next floor is not heated (for example, this is an attic), then it is necessary to insulate. If the next floor is heated, then it is recommended that there is no temperature imbalance on different floors. The fact is that warm air always rises up and, in the absence of thermal insulation between floors, enters the next floor. As a result, the heat on the upper floors;
• roof - do not forget about the warm air, which tends upward and eventually reaches the roof. This air, in addition to everything, is saturated with water vapor, which will condense on the cold, in the absence of thermal insulation, the inner surface of the roof. In winter, when the difference between the indoor air temperature and the temperature of the roof surface is greatest, this will be especially noticeable. The result will be water dripping from above, freezing in case of insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, and a number of other, very unpleasant moments.

Thermal insulation materials

A huge number of all kinds of materials are used to insulate a house. It makes no sense to describe all of them, we list the most popular ones today:

• styrofoam;
• min plate;
• foamed polyethylene (thermal insulation);
• mDVP panels;
• bulk thermal insulation materials (expanded clay, etc.);
• ultra-thin heat-insulating materials (heat-insulating paints, plasters).

Let's take a closer look at each

Styrofoam - expanded polystyrene foam. It happens: ordinary - rather loose, fragile and combustible, or extruded - much denser, stronger, with improved thermal insulation characteristics - 100 mm are similar to 2000 mm brickwork - it will be he who will be meant when mentioning foam. Installation is quite simple - the slabs are easily cut with a knife to size. The side edges are equipped with a quarter lock for better adhesion between the sheets. When the seams are foamed, a monolithic, non-cold bridging, waterproof surface is obtained. If it is necessary to fix the sheets to some surface, either mounting foam, or suitable mounting glue, or special dowels are used. Since the foam is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, after installation it requires its own protection - it can be any opaque surface or painting.

Minplita - is a cotton-like material made of glass or stone fibers. Manufactured in the form of slabs or rolls. Good thermal insulation - 150 mm similar to 2000 mm brickwork. Installation is carried out, as a rule, in at least two layers (the thickness of the slab is most often 50 mm) with a gap between the joints. The roll material is simply rolled over the surface. Surplus is easily cut with a knife. When working with a minelite, you must use personal protective equipment: gloves, respirators. The material is absolutely non-flammable and does not emit any harmful substances during operation, therefore it is considered environmentally friendly. However, there is a possibility of stone or glass dust formation, which must be taken into account during construction. It is afraid of water, when it gets wet it loses its thermal insulation properties.

Polyurethane foam - for domestic purposes, foam in cylinders is most often used. Suitable for local insulation work - filling small cavities, cracks, insulation of door and window openings. Insulation of large surfaces is carried out using special equipment. It has the same thermal conductivity as foam plastic and is also afraid of ultraviolet radiation and requires additional protection. Not afraid of water.

Teploizol - is a foamed polyethylene. With a small thickness, it is produced in rolls, and with a large thickness - in the form of mats. On one side it can have a heat-reflecting foil layer. In this case, it is called foil thermal insulation. Good heat insulator - 100 mm is similar to 2000 mm of brickwork. Installation of rolled thermal insulation is carried out using a construction stapler with an overlap. For the installation of mats, special transparent mounting glue is used. It also glues the seams. Teploizol is not afraid of water and is very durable.

MDVP boards - microporous panels made of wood fiber... Strong enough with good thermal insulation properties - 200 mm are similar to 2000 mm of brickwork. Forms a flat, hard surface during installation. They are fastened in the same way as any sheet wood materials (chipboard, plywood, etc.). Environmentally friendly material.

Bulk thermal insulation materials - granules, usually foamed material. The most famous are foam balls and expanded clay. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is worse than that of foam balls - 100 mm are similar to 500 mm of brickwork. Installation is carried out by pouring into the existing cavities.

Ultra-thin thermal insulation - the youngest material. As a rule, it is a base - paint or plaster filled with ceramic microgranules with a vacuum inside. It is applied in the same way as the base, that is, with a brush or spatula. With a minimum thickness (paint 3 mm, plaster 10-20 mm) they have thermal insulation properties comparable to 2000 mm of brickwork.

Installation of thermal insulation

Insulation of the basement

If you are planning to make a warm or at least frost-free basement, and the thickness of the basement walls is not sufficient to provide the necessary insulation, then additional thermal insulation is needed. Most obvious, but not the right decision there will be insulation from the inside. In this case, it may be possible to achieve a positive temperature in the basement, but the external basement wall as it froze, it will freeze. To prevent this from happening, the basement insulation must be carried out only outside.

If the basement is not finished with anything, then the insulation is carried out with polystyrene, polyurethane foam or ultra-thin thermal insulation. If you plan to finish with materials that require the installation of additional lathing, for example basement siding, then you can insulate with thermal insulation. In this case, the lathing is mounted on top of the finished layer of thermal insulation. It is allowed to use miniplates, but do not forget that it is very hydrophobic, and the basement is a part of the house that is exposed to increased moisture. Therefore, when using a mineral slab, it is necessary to take care of a reinforced layer of waterproofing.

If the base is already finished, then in this case, the finishing will have to be dismantled, or the insulation must be done on top. The work is both laborious and costly, especially since the final finishing after that will have to be done anew. It remains either to insulate from the inside - which, as they said, is very bad, or to forget about the warm basement. The problem can be partially solved by painting the finished base with heat-insulating paint. In this case, the appearance, of course, will be damaged, but not as much as when using other heat-insulating materials.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor

Insulation of the ground floor floor practically does not depend on the type of floors. They can be wood or concrete. Consider both options, taking into account whether the floor was insulated, but additional is required or not.

Let's start with a description necessary work where there was no insulation.

If the floors are concrete, then in this case they are used as a base on which the heat-insulating layer is laid. Sequence of work:

1. Install lags.
2. We make thermal insulation. Materials used for insulation:
   • foam - fits across the entire width between the logs. All seams are foamed;
   • minelab - mats are cut to a size slightly larger than the distance between the lags. Slightly wrinkled when stacked. As a result, after the installation of the minelab, assuming its real dimensions, it reliably closes possible cold bridges between its edge and the log;
   • bulk thermal insulation is simply poured into the interlag space with the required layer.
3. We lay the finishing floor.

If the floors are wooden, then the materials are the same, but the work is slightly different:

1. We stretch from below the lag a waterproofing film (roofing felt or a special membrane).
2. We hem the subfloor from below (if in the future bulk material is used, then with a solid shield, if any other, then it is possible with an interval of up to 100 mm between the boards).
3. We make thermal insulation.
4. We lay the vapor barrier film.
5. We lay the finishing floor.

In any case, the thickness of the insulating layer must be at least 100 mm.

If additional insulation of the floor is required, then all additional insulation work is carried out from below, that is, from the basement side. Materials used for this:

• polystyrene - attached to glue for external thermal insulation or mounting foam (be sure to fix the sheets with self-tapping screws with large caps until the glue has set);
• foam - sprayed industrially from below onto the subfloor;
• mDVP plates - fastened with any suitable fasteners;
• thermal insulation - in the case of wooden floors - is targeted with a construction stapler, in the case of concrete - on a pre-assembled wooden crate with a stapler, or glue directly to the concrete surface.

Wall insulation

Consider two options:

• primary wall insulation - carried out during the construction of frame houses and houses with a layer of an effective heat insulator provided for by the project (for example, brick-thermal insulation-brick);
• additional insulation - is carried out with insufficient thermal insulation of the finished house.

In the first case, you need to know two things:

1. For houses intended for living at any time of the year, the thickness of the required layer of energy-efficient thermal insulation must be at least 150 mm.
2. Combining different materials gives a better effect than using one.

House insulation work is divided into stages similar to floor insulation work, namely:

Installation of a waterproofing film - here, after all, it is better to use a special "breathing" membrane - the very first layer.

Installation of thermal insulation - materials:

• foam - all seams are foamed, if used as the first layer, then waterproofing is not required;
• minelite - as already mentioned, it fits at least two layers with a breakdown. Particular attention should be paid to fixing the material to a vertical surface. To do this, you can either use special fasteners (sold in hardware stores), or mount a fixing crate;
• polyurethane foam - the entire space intended for thermal insulation is filled. The work is carried out using special equipment.

Installation of vapor barrier film. The importance of vapor barrier walls should not be underestimated. The fact is that in the process of human life, a huge amount of water vapor is released. It, in conjunction with the exhaled air, creates an increased pressure inside the room. In winter, when all the windows are closed, the excess air has nowhere to go, and it begins to escape through the pores and micro-crevices of the walls, floor and ceiling. The outer surface of the walls has a negative temperature, and the inner one is positive. It is clear that somewhere inside the wall the temperature, going from plus to minus, becomes 0 ° C. This point is called the freezing point. Water vapor, penetrating through the wall, condenses in the cold zone - the dew point and freezes at the freezing point. From this, the characteristics of the heat-insulating layer deteriorate significantly. The result is a shift of the dew point and freezing point inward. The process of moisture condensation continues, but closer to the inner surface of the wall, which leads to a further shift of both points inward. In the end, the wall can freeze through. To avoid this, a vapor barrier film is used. It does not allow moisture to pass through the walls, while remaining breathable.

Fine finishing of the premises. It is recommended to leave a gap between the material used for this (for example, drywall or clapboard) and the vapor barrier.

An example of the combined insulation of the walls of a frame house:

• the first layer - 50mm foam - waterproof material, does not require waterproofing;
• the second layer - 100 mm minelite;
• vapor barrier;
• finishing.

Additional insulation of the house is always done outside - remember the freezing point, insulation from the inside will move it inside the house, insulation from the outside will move it to the outer surface of the walls. Applicable materials:

• foam - glued to the wall surface. Does not require waterproofing. Plaster for painting, or covered with any siding;
• mine plate - a rigid or semi-rigid plate is used. Attached to the wall with special wall plugs. A waterproofing film is stretched over it. Further, two options are possible:
  • installation of a suspended ventilated facade
  • plaster with subsequent finishing
• foam - sprayed onto the wall with a layer of the required thickness. It is closed either with siding, or, after leveling, it is plastered and painted.
• thermal insulation - mounted by any in an accessible way - with a stapler or glue. Does not require waterproofing. Closed with any siding;
• mDVP slabs - mounted on the crate with self-tapping screws. Outside are covered with a waterproofing film. Suitable for any type of exterior finish;
• ultra-thin thermal insulation - applicable on all surfaces. Since, being a heat insulator, it retains all the properties of its base (paint or plaster), it is applied and finished using the methods corresponding to the base.

Insulation of interfloor floors

As mentioned above, this is a necessary stage in the comprehensive insulation of the house. In addition, do not forget that almost any thermal insulation is still a good sound insulator, which is quite important for floors between residential floors.

In fact, the insulation of interfloor floors is done in the same way as the insulation of the floor. It should be noted that in the case of wooden floors, the subfloor of the next floor is the ceiling of the previous one. Mounting from below on the logs of the MDVP slabs, you can reduce the cost of subsequent fine finish ceiling and floor insulation.

Roof insulation

Before carrying out work on roof insulation, it is necessary to provide high-quality waterproofing. Any leak will negate the positive effect of thermal insulation. The work that needs to be done for waterproofing depends on whether you are building a house or will insulate an already built one.

In a new building, the roof is waterproofed at the installation stage roofing material... As a rule, for this, a waterproofing layer is provided between the roofing material and the base (rafters with lathing). As such a layer, a special film or roofing material can be used. In this case, it is necessary to leave a gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material.

What can be done if waterproofing was not provided during the installation of the roof. There are two options here:

1. Thermal insulation has not yet been made - that is, the reverse side of the roofing material is visible from the inside through the crate. It makes no sense to mount the film from the bottom of the rafters, since the thermal insulation layer mounted below the film will significantly "eat" the useful volume of the room. Waterproofing must be done in the space between the rafters. To do this, the waterproofing film is stretched between the rafters, as shown in the photo: as waterproofing, you can fix a roll of thermal insulation that does not allow water to pass through. At the same time, he will also be the first layer of thermal insulation. A waterproofing layer can also be made of foam. The sheets are cut in width equal to the distance between the rafters, and then fixed in the space between the rafters using polyurethane foam (all seams must be foamed).
2. Thermal insulation has already been done - in this case, waterproofing will not work, because, as mentioned above, it is done between the roof and the thermal insulation. It remains only to monitor the integrity of the roof and, in the event of a leak, to immediately take repair measures. For sealing leaking areas, mastic for repairing roofs and waterproofing is very suitable.

So, the roof does not leak, it remains to insulate it.

In the case of primary insulation, the installation of thermal insulation is carried out in the inter-rafter space. For this, foam, mineral plate, thermal insulation or foam are used. Installation is carried out in the same way as for wall insulation. After reaching the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer, the room is finished. If you use MDVP panels for this, then you can make the layer of thermal insulation between the rafters thinner.

If the roof insulation work was carried out using hydrophobic materials, then the final stage before finishing finishing will be the installation of a vapor barrier film.

When re-warming the roof, all work is carried out on the finished finish. The most "gentle" options, that is, requiring a minimum of effort, will be warming with ultra-thin thermal insulation (painting) or installation of MDVP panels. Both of these options will require a minimum of effort for subsequent finishing.

If you use other materials - polystyrene, mineral slabs, foam or thermal insulation, then, after installation, you will have to re-carry out all the finishing work - the manufacture of lathing and sheathing with finishing materials or, if the material allows it, then, for example, putty and painting. When using a miniplate, do not forget about vapor barrier.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the situation when all the work on hydro- and thermal insulation was carried out, but the ceiling of the last floor still freezes. Freezing spots are clearly visible on drywall and wallpaper - they change color to a darker one. Such a situation is possible when, for example, insulation was carried out with a min-plate, which was not properly fixed on inclined planes and over time it slid down. In this case, holes are drilled in places of freezing and through them all cavities are filled with foam from cylinders.

So, a properly insulated house will not only save the people living in it from the cold, but will also last much longer, because thermal insulation, in addition to its main work, also protects structural elements houses from destruction.

Evgeny Dubinin, rmnt.ru

The process has its supporters and ardent opponents. In their own truth, both those and others, it all depends on the situation. But before choosing this particular type of insulation, you need to know which insulation is suitable, to study the nuances of performing insulation work.

To insulate the walls inside the premises is to make your home comfortable and cozy for living. This type of heat saving is unconventional and is usually used. But there are situations when there is no other way out.

This option can also be considered in apartment buildingwhen insulation interior walls the only way to insulate a room. This process will help eliminate fungal growth in the room.

Cons of internal thermal insulation

This method has its drawbacks, so it has many opponents.

Problems with internal wall insulation are the following:

• with external thermal insulation, the walls of the building are protected from the cold, which cannot be achieved with insulation from the inside. The base is in contact with the environment, cracks may appear on it;
• the occurrence of condensation. With internal heat conservation, it moves behind the supporting structure and forms between the insulator and the surface. The result can be the development of fungal formations that will be difficult to notice;
• reduction in area. Modern heat insulators have excellent characteristics, but they have not yet come up with such a material that would take up little space. At this point, when insulating, the room will be 10 cm smaller on each side.

Before deciding on internal insulation, it is worth weighing all the disadvantages and considering the advantages, only in this way it will be possible to avoid mistakes and shortcomings during installation.

Thermal insulation materials

This technology allows the use of various thermal insulation materials for walls, which have pros and cons.

The most popular heat insulators:

• wood fiber board;
• ecowool;
• glass wool.

These insulators are widely available and inexpensive. Let's analyze the characteristics of each type of insulators that can be used as insulation from the inside.

Penoplex and polystyrene

A productive and affordable heat insulator, which is used very often when insulating apartments, in high-rise buildings. It is enough to take a 5 cm thick slab. No special tool is needed, and installation is not difficult.

But this material has disadvantages:

• flammability;
• low strength;
• vapor tightness - if you do not make working ventilation in the apartment, otherwise it will turn into a greenhouse.

It is necessary to equip forced ventilation - this may require additional costs.

This type of insulation is suitable only for concrete, brick, foam block structures, since wood, covered with this heat-insulating material, loses its ability to "breathe".

Mineral wool

A very common heat insulator. It is widely used in apartments and industrial buildings, in addition, it is used as a filler in plasterboard partitions, as it has excellent sound insulation properties.

Mineral wool is inexpensive, has excellent vapor barrier. For an apartment or house, it is better to purchase hard slabs of basalt wool, they are easy to install. Another plus of the material is incombustibility.

But it is worth using this material with great care if the walls in the apartment are damp, basalt wool is hygroscopic, and when wet it completely loses its insulating properties. Therefore, before laying it on the walls, you need to equip the waterproofing layer, and before the finishing lining, stretch the vapor barrier.

For waterproofing works, it is better to use membranes, they are vapor permeable, and will not interfere with the "breathing" of the outer walls.

Wood fiber boards

This material has a number of positive characteristics:

• good heat conservation and sound insulation;
• not afraid of temperature changes;
• moisture resistant;
• easy to process and install;
• rodents do not breed in it.

Often this material is used specifically for outdoor decoration, it is treated with special impregnations that can harm human health.

Foil insulation

Technological processes do not stand still, therefore, innovative developments in the field of insulation and construction constantly appear on the market. Such a novelty is a foil-clad heat insulator.

The material is a layer of polyester foam, on which a layer of thin aluminum foil is glued. The property of this material is that heat is reflected from the foil layer and directed inside the house.

Many manufacturers produce polyester with a self-adhesive layer, so it is very convenient to work with this material, it is enough to carefully prepare the surface and stick insulation on the wall.

Ecowool

The material that appeared on the market quite recently, but immediately gained popularity among ordinary people, thanks to a lot of advantages:

• naturalness and safety. The heat insulator is made by recycling recycled cellulose, therefore it is non-toxic;
• excellent performance of thermal insulation;
• air impermeability;
• fine fiber structure;
• durability;
• does not shrink.

But, despite the positive characteristics, the material has several significant disadvantages that prevent its widespread use:

• the inability to do the installation with your own hands. The material is applied by wet spraying using a special technique. For insulation, you will have to invite specialists;
• with vertical spraying, the laying of the material must be carried out in stages, since there is a possibility of the layer slipping;
• flammability;
• the period of solidification of the mass is 24 hours, subject to good ventilation;
• cost;
• the need to equip the frame.

Internal thermal insulation of walls with ecowool is carried out strictly along a wooden crate, the step of which can vary from 60 cm to 1 meter. The frame is constructed so that, when spraying, the material does not slip from a vertical surface.

Glass wool

This heat insulator has been used in construction for a very long time. The main constituent of this material is fiberglass.

The use of glass wool is due to the following characteristics:

• high soundproofing qualities;
• flexibility - due to its structure, glass wool can take any shape;
• fire resistance;
• immunity to chemical attack;
• affordable cost;
• breathability.

But it's worth talking about the disadvantages:

• the material is unstable to mechanical stress, therefore it is mounted only on the frame;
• it has greater degree shrinkage over time;
• service life is 10 years, then glass wool loses its thermal insulation properties;
• destroyed by sun exposure.

Despite the disadvantages, the material is very often used for warming premises, as it has a low cost and ease of installation.

When working with glass wool, you need to use protective equipment - glasses, a mask, gloves and tight clothing, since small, sharp particles of material when in contact with the skin cause severe itching.

How to choose the right material for indoor insulation

Before you mount the wall insulation from the inside with your own hands, we choose the right insulator that meets the following requirements:

• safety for humans;
• environmental friendliness;
• durability;
• fire resistance;
• vapor permeability;
• low thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance.

With internal insulation of the house, it is worthwhile before the start of installation, they equip a good ventilation system, otherwise the microclimate in the room will become unfavorable over time.

Comparative table of thermal insulation materials:

Material name	Density	Thermal conductivity coefficient	Vapor permeability	Moisture absorption
Styrofoam	40	0, 037	0,05	2
Penoplex	28	0,028	0,006	0,2
Wood fiber	250-400	0,045-0,09	1	12
Minvata	30-220	0,07	0,38-0,60	70
Ecowool	35-65	0,032-0,042	0,67	-
Glass wool	10-50	0,029-0,052	0,5-0,6	10-15

Wall insulation technology from the inside

Experts advise using room insulation from the inside only in special cases, for example:

• if the apartment is located above the second floor, and industrial climbers need to be involved for outdoor insulation;
• in new buildings, if it is not possible to rent facade decoration and make external thermal insulation;
• if the insulation of the facade violates the architectural ensemble.

Ways to insulate walls from the inside:

• on the frame;
• on the glue.

The first method does not require careful alignment of the bearing surface. In addition, it is very simple to fix the facing material to the frame, so if it is planned to build walls from drywall after insulation, then the crate does not need to be mounted. If, after isolation, it is planned to plaster the surface, then there is no need for a frame. In any case, the method of fastening the material directly depends on the further decoration of the walls.

Insulation on the frame

Like a wall from inside a room on a frame? This thermal insulation of walls from the inside is a laborious process, but more reliable. Thanks to the frame, the brittle material is not subjected to mechanical stress, this is especially true if foam is chosen as a heat-insulating material.

The wall does not need to be leveled, but before installation it is worthwhile to clean the surface from plaster, if it has peeled off, dirt, dust and cover it with an antiseptic compound.

The frame is constructed with aluminum profiles or bars. Fastening is done on dowels or on self-tapping screws - depending on the material from which the base is made. The step of the racks should be equal to the width of the material, for example, if a soft insulation is chosen for the walls inside the walls, then the distance is reduced by two centimeters, when using foam or polystyrene, exactly 60 cm.

If it is decided to use wooden elements as racks, then they should be treated with impregnation, which will prevent rotting and the formation of fungus.

As soon as the frame is ready, a heat insulator is placed in the gaps, and all the seams between the material are sealed with polyurethane foam. After the foam dries, it is trimmed flush. After that, you can proceed with the final finishing.

Thermal insulation of walls inside the room on the frame is made with the following materials:

• glass wool;
• basalt insulation;
• styrofoam;
• wood fiber.

Any of the above materials can be mounted using a crate on the walls, except for foil insulation.

Installation of insulation on glue

This type of installation requires careful preparation of the plane of the walls before insulating.

They are cleaned of dust and dirt, degreased. Further work proceeds according to the following algorithm:

• after cleaning, the walls must be leveled and repaired. Cracks are putty, large protrusions are knocked down, and the depressions are sealed with mortar;
• all surfaces are treated with an antiseptic or antimicrobial primer;
• the soil is applied in two layers;
• after drying, you can start installing the plates on glue, it is applied to the wall and to the material with a notched trowel;
• the glue will dry for 2-3 days;
• as soon as the surface dries out, additional fixation with umbrella dowels is necessary.

Do not forget that the installation of layers of material is performed with an offset. In this case, it is imperative to carry out waterproofing of the base surface and vapor barrier of the insulation itself after installation.

Arrangement of insulation for glue has its own limitations, since only dense pits are used for this, for example:

• styrofoam;
• wood fiber;
• penoplex;
• forged insulation.

As soon as all the installation of the heat insulator is completed, they begin finishing.

Top coat

Usually, when installing heat-saving plates on glue, they are plastered, using a forming mesh for a gypsum composition, and fiberglass for a putty. These measures will prevent the topcoat from cracking.

After all the plastering and puttying work is over, and the walls have dried out, we clean the surface with an abrasive mesh of a fine fraction and paint it with a water emulsion of the desired shade.

Many people face such a problem, the heat is not stored in a heated room, the reason for this may be the dissipation of heat energy through the walls. How to deal with this? How to keep warm inside the house? How to insulate the house? What is the best way to insulate the house outside? For this, the house is insulated. The most correct solution would be to insulate the walls of the room, their outer part, you can use any heat insulator for this.

He will be able to create protection for the warm indoor air from the outside cold and will effectively maintain the required indoor microclimate. Also, the advantages of exterior wall insulation include their protection from water vapor and light emission, which will significantly extend their operational life.

What is the best way to insulate the walls of the house outside? What is the best way to insulate a house? How to insulate stone house, brick or wooden? High-quality thermal insulation is a guarantee of comfort and coziness of a private or country house.

How to insulate a house with your own hands? How to conduct good thermal insulation and do it in the best way?

In total, there are three main types of thermal insulation work in a private house:

• The insulation is fixed directly to the wall using special glue or other devices. Then it is covered with construction mesh and plastered under the finishing materials.
• In this case, the heat insulator is also mounted on the wall of the room, but then an additional brick wall is installed on the foundation. A small air space or gap is left between the insulation and the wall. With this method, the heat insulator is not plastered.
• This insulation option consists of several stage-by-stage works. First of all, the walls of the house are covered with a special waterproofing film, then the material selected as insulation is mounted, after which it is necessary to install protection against water vapor and wind. And only after that, with the help of a special frame made of wooden beams or metal guides, is the installation of materials for the external cladding of the room such various siding, lining, ceramic tiles and much more. The use of this option, the so-called ventilated facade, can be done at any time of the year, since there is no need to use any solutions.

The options considered represent a general direction, in each of them there may be certain changes associated with the use of certain materials as insulation. The modern market for thermal insulation materials is quite wide and some of them may require a different installation method.

Also, the choice of a heat insulator, its parameters depend on the material from which the walls of the house are made. As an example, consider the principles of installing insulation for wooden, brick and concrete walls.

Installation of heaters

How to insulate? Any heat insulator has certain properties, but in any case it can keep your home warm. They differ in price, in the material from which they are made and in such parameters as moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. Heaters that are presented in the construction market: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polyurethane foams, basalt slab and cellulose insulation.

The use of one or another insulation material is associated with climatic conditions, the method of installation work and the coefficient of thermal conductivity. The calculation takes into account the width load-bearing wall, thermal conductivity of the insulator, internal room temperature. Then you can start installing the insulation. How to prepare the wall for the installation of insulation?

Consider the instruction:

• First of all, it is necessary to clear the wall from old plaster and other materials up to the material from which it is made.
• After that, it is necessary to level the wall surfaces, close up cracks and pits and cut off protrusions, clean up dust and dirt, and carefully apply a primer, not missing a single centimeter of the area.

A primer should be used that has the property of deep penetration into the wall, choosing one type or another depending on the material from which the primed surface is made.

• Installation of insulation should be done in an even layer without curving the surface, depressions and protrusions, using the tools provided for this: beacons, plumb lines, levels, corners and others. Otherwise, you may encounter problems with further plastering the wall or installing the facing material, that is, applying different thicknesses of the plastering material and installing additional guides. What does a beacon system look like? On the upper edge of the surface, screws are screwed in, several pieces depending on the length of the wall, on which a dense thread is hung with a metal plumb line at the bottom.
• After that, horizontal threads are installed, which connect all vertical threads. Thus, a network is formed that will determine the level when installing an insulation or frame system. After carrying out such preparatory work, you can start installing the heat insulator.

Can be made with different materials. How to insulate the walls of the house outside? How do materials differ from each other?

Use of expanded polystyrene

Use of expanded polystyrene as insulation. How to insulate a house from the outside with expanded polystyrene? You need to properly insulate according to the instructions.

Installation instructions for this thermal insulation product:

• At the beginning, it is necessary to install a corner along the lower edge of the wall, observing the required level - the first layer of the heat insulator will be aligned along it. It is installed using a special glue, and glue for ceramic tiles is also suitable.
• The sheets are pressed tightly against the wall and leveled using plumb lines and a level. The second layer of material is applied after the first has dried completely, so as not to knock it off the level.

It should be noted that the sheets of each subsequent level are mounted in brick order, that is, the seam of the lower level is located in the middle of the sheet of the next row. This is done so that the sheets of the lower row hold the upper ones.

• From the second row, polystyrene foam is attached using special anchors, "umbrellas", as they are called in another way. They are driven into each of the four corners and into the center of the sheet.
• Vertical and horizontal seams are glued with reinforcing tape. IN window openings and on the corners of the walls, insulation is additionally attached with corners made of metal.
• After the wall is completely covered with insulation, a construction mesh is mounted on it, then plaster can be applied.

Expanded polystyrene is best suited for insulating walls made of bricks and concrete. This installation of insulation also has its negative sides. So, for example, this material has a low permeability to water vapor, as a result of which the condensate that will accumulate in the wall can eventually cause it to get wet.

To avoid this, the walls must be thoroughly dried before installation work on the installation of insulation. It is also important to keep them dry during operation. If all this is impossible to achieve, then in this case it is better to use the method of installing a heater, which provides for its ventilation.

Remember that in the end there should be no place in which there will be access to the expanded polystyrene, otherwise small rodents can damage it, and it will also be affected by the environment, which will lead to damage and deterioration.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of a house can be done using expanded polystyrene.

Mineral wool applications

Many are inclined to believe that it is better to insulate the walls with mineral wool. Mineral wool is another popular insulation material. How to insulate a private house with mineral wool? The installation of this insulation is similar in its technological procedures to thermal insulation made with basalt or cellulose slabs.

Installation instructions for mineral wool:

• In the beginning, wall preparation is always required. Let's clean the walls from old plaster and try to level the surface.
• Then you should proceed with the installation of the frame. It is made of wooden beams by creating vertical and horizontal lathing. In this case, the width and length of the empty space should be less than a sheet of insulation by about thirty millimeters - this is the necessary conditions so that the sheet of mineral wool goes into it easily and does not form a large gap.
• As an attachment to the sheets of mineral wool, anchor bolts are mounted on which the material is hung. Since most of the walls are uneven, it is better to use mineral wool, which consists of two layers. In this case, the softer layer is installed directly on the wall, due to its structure, the most excellent connection of the sheets with the insulated surface occurs.

On some variants of mineral wool, you can apply plaster after installing the building mesh or install a special vapor-permeable insulating film. Then it is necessary to strengthen it and the heat insulator with additional wooden beams, after which the facing material is installed. Lining, various siding, tiles and facing bricks are suitable.

This type of home insulation, three-layer ventilated, has proven itself in all climatic zones. It is especially suitable for walls made of wood, as it allows this product to breathe and not get damp.

Use of polyurethane foam

How to properly insulate a house with polyurethane foam? When installing this insulation, you must adhere to the same frame structure, as well as with mineral wool insulation with the installation of a windscreen. At the same time, polyurethane foam is foamed on the wall in a place free from the frame for the film, forming a very strong connection with the wall, thanks to which an excellent result is achieved in keeping warm inside the premises.

But there is one drawback - when using this type of insulation, when mounted on vertical walls, it is difficult to form a layer of the same thickness, so it is most often used on horizontal surfaces such as ceilings or roof slopes standing at a slight angle. It is not difficult to insulate the walls with polyurethane. It is necessary to insulate the house (booth) using additional products.

Basalt slabs application

Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside can be carried out using basalt slabs. During the installation of this thermal insulation product, it is necessary to additionally apply a vapor barrier film.

The laying of this protective film is carried out on the bars, which have a horizontal position, and between the rafters. Then it is necessary to seal the formed joints. Sealing is done using a specially designed tape. The layer should be 200 millimeters. Next, a layer of wind protection is laid, and a covering is made of purlins thanks to the beams. This is done to provide ventilation.

Before starting the insulation of external walls with this material, it is necessary to make a covering from the battens - this differs from the thermal insulation of the internal walls of the building. Leave a gap for ventilation. Basalt slabs are attached using self-tapping screws. The final stage of installation includes surface finishing with siding or some other coating.

To insulate the walls outside basalt slabs, you must strictly follow the rules. Insulation of a private house is often carried out using basalt slabs.

Use of cellulose

How to insulate walls with cellulose? Cellulose can be assembled in three ways: mechanical, dry, wet.

The first mounting method involves the use of dedicated hardware.Mechanical insulation of walls outside with your own hands is quite expensive. Mechanical method has high performance. This method allows the walls to "breathe". Therefore, it is not necessary to apply a vapor barrier.

The dry mounting method is used only for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces. How are the walls insulated from the outside using this method? The insulation product is applied to the walls by hand without the use of special equipment. First, the cellulose must be fluffed, this is done with a drill.

Then it must be poured out of the container onto the surface. Further, it is tamped. If, nevertheless, the insulation needs to be applied to a vertical surface, then the work will take place in two stages. First you need to build a wall from a frame, the height of which should be 50 centimeters. Then you need to add a heat-insulating product and tamp it. This is how other parts of the walls are insulated.

Wet method - it is used for thermal insulation of vertical structures. First, the pulp must be moistened with water. Thanks to this procedure, the cellulose will set without problems.

All insulation methods can be used to insulate a private house from the outside. Or it will be the insulation of a country house.

What is the best way to insulate the house outside? there is various materials for wall insulation outside. Each insulation material has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main thing is to be cheap, inexpensive, but of high quality. Use that material for insulation of the house outside, which has high technical characteristics.

We hope that the description of each of them will help you to make right choice... Wall insulation outside is an important element in achieving overall comfort. You can insulate a house outside with your own hands without anyone's help. You will achieve maximum comfort and coziness in your home.

For summer residents, owners of private houses, the question of how to insulate the house from the outside and with what, remains one of the most relevant. How to properly insulate a house? Competent insulation of the outer walls not only creates a positive microclimate inside the home, but is very beneficial economically. After all, the need for constant use of heating systems in cold weather is eliminated - therefore, you pay less for electricity. The second aspect is the constant "correct" temperature inside the room, the absence of humidity and, as a result, the exclusion of the appearance of fungus, mold, and putrefactive processes.

You can insulate the house outside with your own hands using various modern materials... Initially, you need to look at what the walls of the house are made of, and then decide on the choice of insulation. Each insulation has its own fastening technology. External thermal insulation is also good in that it does not reduce the volume of the room, does not provoke moisture accumulation, and prevents the walls from "sweating". Consider the most commonly used heaters and the specifics of their installation, methods of insulating a house from the outside.

Foam insulation

Insulating the house outside with foam is a rational solution. This home insulation is good for everyone: light, inexpensive, does not require the use of any special technologies or tools.

Installation steps:

1. First you need to prepare the surface, level it well. Polyfoam is produced in the form of slabs, therefore, the smoother the outer part of the wall, the better the fit (absence of voids), the less labor costs it will be possible to insulate the house.
2. The surface should be well cleaned, primed to exclude glue or whitewash residues.
3. This is followed by the installation of external window sills (ebb).
4. Installation of a starting strip - a base that will prevent the foam plates from sliding down. Also, this element helps to lay the slabs evenly (keep the line).
5. To insulate the house, laying foam insulation starts from the bottom of the wall, the accuracy of the installation of the bottom plate is responsible for the evenness of all subsequent rows. For fixing the boards, a universal adhesive for facade works, silicone sealant, adhesive for tile, other varieties. Some masters recommend, for greater reliability, to fix the plates with nails (3 days after installation). However, in this case, one should take into account the peculiarities of the material from which the walls of the building were erected, whether it will be possible to use nails in this case.

As for houses made of timber, before insulating a wooden house outside, scrupulously inspect the surface for holes and cracks, and then seal them up with mineral wool, foam or ecowool. There should be no drafts or air pockets.

Before proceeding with the description of the characteristics of another insulation, it is worth clarifying some of the nuances regarding foam. To the frequently asked question: is it possible for them to insulate the house from the outside, the answer is yes, yes.

It is characterized by quite good thermal insulation parameters, but at the same time there is an opinion that it is short-lived, has high flammability, and is unsafe in terms of ecology.

Let's consider these factors in more detail:

1. The foam contains polymer additives that are really flammable. However, the danger can threaten only when the installation of the plates was carried out incorrectly, the safety requirements, the rules for the operation of this particular material were not observed. It is quite successfully used at different stages of house construction, if all stages of the insulation "pie" are correctly carried out, then everything will be fine. Its ignition temperature is 491 degrees, which is almost two times higher than that of wood or paper-containing materials. Thus, in terms of flammability, it is no more dangerous than wooden furniture or floors.
2. It is difficult to voice an objective opinion on the durability of the foam, for the reason that it is relatively young. When choosing, pay attention to its manufacturer, as well as its quality. Most manufacturers guarantee its service life as insulation up to 70 years, taking into account temperature fluctuations from -40 to + 40 ° C.
3. Polyfoam is not poisonous, non-toxic, biologically neutral. There has never been a single case when a builder or a person constantly working with him got poisoned or got sick. When in contact with it, you do not need to wear respirators or protective gloves. It is distinguished by the effect of "breathing" - this allows you to maintain an acceptable level of humidity inside the room.
4. On the forums dedicated to the construction topic, sometimes there is information that the foam insulation does not provide heat gain. This opinion is correct, but we should not forget that it perfectly retains heat in the house. If you decide to insulate the walls with it, then about 30% of the heat that used to "go" outside will remain indoors. It is very important, before insulating the walls outside in a private house with penoplex or polystyrene foam, to determine its thickness, which is required specifically for your home.

Comparative characteristics of materials for insulation

Very often you can hear the question, what is the difference between polystyrene and penoplex? These insulating materials are really almost the same: both are light weight, moisture resistant, do not rot, are afraid of solvents, acetone. Both have a "related" origin - the method of foaming polystyrene. On the surface, the difference lies in different color - the penoplex has a yellow-orange color. But when the question arises, what is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside with polystyrene or polystyrene foam, the latter demonstrates higher density, moisture resistance, air tightness.

If you live in an area of \u200b\u200bhigh humidity, then when choosing a heater for external walls, it is better to opt for foam. The same mineral wool in such conditions is completely unsuitable for insulating walls and foundations.

A short list of the characteristics of penoplex:

• higher density, respectively, slightly reduced thermal insulation indicators;
• higher moisture resistance;
• higher degree of flammability;
• processed with fire retardants, which is why its environmental friendliness suffers.

In turn, the foam:

• lower density (fragile);
• higher thermal stability (due to the looseness of the structure);
• the degree of moisture resistance is lower (again, due to looseness);
• low sound insulation performance;
• it manifests itself better in combination with other more durable building materials.

Otherwise, they are almost the same, the choice is yours than to insulate.

Now let's look at what is better to insulate the house from the outside, with foam or mineral wool? Again, the choice is always driven by many factors: price, climatic conditions, the material from which the house was built. For example, for wooden house Mineral wool is optimal ( stone wool, glass wool), it is a non-combustible building material. When working with mineral wool, wear protective clothing, gloves, and a respirator.

If we consider the characteristics of both heaters from manufacturers, then approximately the same thermal conductivity parameters will be indicated. In fact, this is not entirely true - when insulated, foam shows the best results. It can only be compared with dense balsalt wool in slabs - one of the varieties of mineral wool. In terms of ease of installation, foam insulation also benefits: no protection when working with the material, light weight, no dust during processing. Plus, it is cheaper to insulate with foam plastic than mineral wool in cost.

Mineral wool manifests itself better at the joints, cold bridges are practically excluded, while foam plastic suffers from this. The problem is solved by choosing sheets with an L-shaped edge for individual stages of work. How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside if they have an uneven surface? The good thing about mineral wool is that it can be cut into fragments of any shape and size - this is very convenient when insulating uneven walls. For foam insulation, the surface must be flat.

Sometimes they are used together, this technique is called multi-layer thermal insulation. In such cases, the foam should be located under the mineral wool. Mineral wool should act as the top layer.

How to insulate a block house from the outside?

Some modern building materials used for the construction of houses initially have high thermal insulation performance. Often, the manufacturer assures that a house built from this material will not need additional insulation. This is not always the case, take, for example, aerated concrete - an excellent environmentally friendly building material with a cellular structure. It really has high performance in thermal insulation, but it also needs insulation.

How to insulate a house from aerated concrete outside? Due to its high vapor permeability, polystyrene or polystyrene foam should be immediately excluded. If air exchange is disturbed between interior and external environment, on the border of the wall and the insulating material, condensation collects (which is why it is constantly wet). If aerated concrete gets wet, mold and fungi will start on it, putrefactive processes will begin. In this situation, polyurethane or mineral wool in the form of mats will be appropriate as a heater.

Initially, the surface of the wall is cleaned of debris and then primed. Any irregularities are plastered with a special mixture.

Installation steps:

1. Mineral wool in mats is attached to the treated surface with suitable adhesive mixtures, but in no case with dowels.
2. Fiberglass is laid on top (silicate glue to help), it acts as a reinforcing layer.
3. To insulate those places where window or door openings are located, insulation material mounted with reinforcing mesh or corners.
4. This is followed by the turn of plaster and finishingeg staining.

The presence of high-quality waterproofing is extremely important for aerated concrete walls, since the porous structure actively absorbs moisture. When insulating such a house, dowels, self-tapping screws should be excluded, since any slightest cracks or cracks can lead to a disastrous result for the entire structure. It is allowed to use suitable adhesive mixtures or chemical anchors.

How to insulate a house from a bar outside?

Now let's look at how to insulate a house from wooden beam 150 × 150 outside. In theory, it would also be possible to use polystyrene or penoplex here, but there is one "but" - they are not suitable for wooden houses due to ventilation requirements. Mineral wool passes air well and at the same time is thermal insulation. In turn, the foam provides a reliable barrier to cold, but does not allow free air exchange, which is important for houses from a bar. If wooden walls insulate them, then after a while fungus and rot will appear on them, especially since in winter there will be nowhere to go from condensation.

In addition to mineral wool, you will need waterproofing, a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with anchors, a protective antifungal agent, which will need to pre-treat the surface of the walls.

The phased installation is as follows:

• preparation of walls;
• laying the first waterproofing layer;
• installation of the crate;
• laying mineral wool;
• installation of the second waterproofing layer;
• how to close the insulation on the wall outside the house? The last stage is decorative plaster or siding (or other suitable material).

Mineral wool should fit tightly, without through gaps. At the bottom, near the foundation and at the top, under the eaves of the roof, air vents should be left to ensure air circulation and steam outlet (so that condensate does not settle on the vapor barrier layer).

Insulation of the basement

What is the best way to insulate the basement of the house outside? The basement also takes on atmospheric precipitation, which means that the insulation for it must have reliable waterproof qualities. This part of the house can be insulated with foaming agents, mineral wool, foam. Each of them requires individual approach, installation features. However, the best and easiest to work with is polystyrene - durable, durable, moisture resistant. In all respects, this material is the most profitable among other heaters.

Before installing the polystyrene plates, the surface must be treated with a primer. Fastening is done over the waterproofing layer, with polyurethane glue or with bitumen-polymer mastic. It is important that the adhesive mixture does not contain solvents - this destroys the material. The thicker you choose the slab, the better the insulation will be.

Any house, no matter what it was built from, needs proper insulation. The answer to the question of how to insulate a house from the outside and with what will depend on many factors: source material structure, atmospheric features of the region, the cost of insulation. In any case, it is better to spend money once on high-quality insulation outside, than to give heat to the outside for years, to heat the house around the clock.

As a person protects his head, body, legs during a cold snap, so do-it-yourself insulation of a private house includes work on the insulation of the roof, walls and foundation, presented in the photo of house insulation.

This process consists of insulating the house from the outside and measures taken to insulate the premises from the inside.

Outdoor work

Roof insulation is best done during the construction phase of the house. To do this, starting from the eaves, lay a film for waterproofing with an overlap and a sag between the rafters on the rafters. Then the lathing is mounted and the insulation is laid.

If mineral wool was used, then it is covered with a protective film and the roofing work is started.

The complex of works to increase the thermal protection of walls includes cleaning them from dust, paint, plaster, leveling and sealing cracks. At this stage, it is advisable to replace or insulate the windows.

When using mineral wool, a lathing of wooden blocks or aluminum profiles is mounted at a distance from each other less than two centimeters of the width of the wool. Slabs of mineral wool are inserted and a plastic wrap or windproof membrane is fixed on top of them.

A horizontal lathing of boards is installed and the walls are clad with siding.

When using polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam, a stop bar is fixed 10-15 cm from the ground.

The first row of polystyrene rests on this bar, and the next ones are laid with a shift to the previous row by half of the slab and fixed to the wall with fasteners. Then a reinforcing mesh is glued on top and plastering or tiling is performed.

When insulating the foundation, it is necessary to clean it from the ground, apply a primer and two layers of polymer mastic or a two-component cement mortar with quick hardening.

After 5-7 days, the heat-insulating material (polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foam glass, perlitobitum) is fixed using dowels, glue, mastic. Reinforcing mesh is installed and plaster is applied. The trench is filled with slag, sand, expanded clay and a blind area is equipped to drain water.

Internal work

Warm floors mean comfort, and a well-protected ceiling means keeping 25 to 40% of the heat in the room.

The sequence of actions for floor insulation in the house depends on the base.

If there is an earthen base below, then the surface layer of the earth is removed or sand, crushed stone is poured so that there is a distance of 10-15 cm to the intended floor.Then a thick film or oilcloth is laid for waterproofing and everything is poured with a layer of cement mortar 40 mm thick.

Foam plates are laid on the solution or expanded clay is poured, which can be filled with cement milk.

Time is given for two days for the screed to dry and it is poured with cement mortar with a layer thickness of 70 mm. Then a reinforcing mesh is laid on top and after drying, a decorative floor covering is mounted.

It is necessary to lay a waterproofing film, then mineral wool on the floor of a reinforced concrete slab. Cover the top with an assembly mesh, pour concrete mortar and lay decorative flooring.

Note!

The ceiling can be insulated from both sides. From the side of the attic, this provides for the installation of a waterproofing layer, installation of insulation and a sub-floor.

Ceiling insulation from the inside depends on the type of ceiling and includes for wooden ceilings elimination of cracks and an antiseptic primer, and for concrete cracks and a primer. The heat-insulating material is glued and fastened with special fasteners for greater reliability.

The gaps between the pieces of insulation are filled with polyurethane foam and work is performed on the installation of the stretch ceiling.

To use the lathing, the ceiling is marked according to the width of the insulation (for mineral wool minus 20-30 mm). Wooden blocks are installed or metal profiles, insulation plates are inserted and covered with a vapor barrier film on top. After that, the ceiling is sheathed finishing material (clapboard, plasterboard sheets).

How to insulate a frame house?

Outside insulation is the most effective way to protect a building from heat and does not reduce the interior space of the house. The technology for performing the work consists in the fact that if the house has already been built, then you need to remove everything from the outside to the main frame racks.

On top of the racks, fill horizontally a counter-lattice from a 50x50 mm bar and put insulation in the "second layer". Then install the OSB board, hydro, windproof film and crate.

Note!

The outer walls of the house are sheathed with siding under a log, wooden clapboard, plastic siding.

Insulation from the inside is done in the same way as outside, but instead of siding or lining, drywall is used.

DIY home insulation photo

Note!