Der overlapping we insulate the ceiling tips. Insulation for the ceiling in a private house: which is better. How much insulation is needed on the ceiling

Master of Architecture, graduated from the Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

A wooden house - the structure itself is warm. That is why many city dwellers part with cramped apartments and move to a suburban home. Wood buildings are comfortable and practical, as well as environmentally friendly. In summer it is pleasantly cool, and in winter it is warm. However, even the warmest wood will not protect against severe frosts and winds: one cannot do without insulation for the ceiling of a wooden room.

Often, all heat loss from the inside is due to an improperly finished ceiling. If you do not properly insulate this part of the house, you can not wait for coziness and comfort in winter. Will not help modern windows and wall insulation, it all depends on the ceiling.

How to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house?

There are several affordable and simple ways to insulate the inside and outside with your own hands. All of them are divided into two options: insulation from the outside from the attic and inside the room. When insulating the surface from the inside, you need to understand that the height may decrease. If the attic floor is insulated, after all the work it is necessary to do flooring.

When insulating, it is necessary to pay attention to the following indicators: strength, safety, sound insulation, fire resistance

By choosing required material, you need to focus on the following indicators:

• strength and durability;
• no harm to health;
• fire resistance;
• reliable thermal insulation qualities;
• the presence of sound insulation.

What can be used?

• mineral or glass wool;
• sawdust;
• polyurethane foam;
• styrofoam;
• clay;
• expanded clay.

Use of sawdust

They are the cheapest and most affordable way of insulation from the outside, while their qualities are not inferior to expensive materials. The process itself is simple and does not require much time. Everything can be done by hand. First, you should prepare materials:

• several bags of sawdust;
• insulating material. It is necessary to calculate the required amount. To do this, you need to know exactly the surface area;
• cement.

A mixture of sawdust and cement for ceiling insulation

The latter is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. How to calculate the correct number of sawdust? One and a half buckets of water are required for ten buckets of sawdust. A wet mixture should form, which will be the insulation... What should be the sawdust? The first ones that come along won't do. The material must meet the following requirements:

• dryness, lack of moisture;
• age not less than a year;
• lack of mold and its smell;
• the average size. Small ones are not suitable, otherwise the thermal insulation qualities will deteriorate.

The sawdust mixture should be evenly distributed over the ceiling surface

Sequencing:

1. Clean the surface from dust, dirt.
2. Treat the base with a special solution that protects the room and the ceiling from fungi and insects.
3. Take the material prepared in advance for waterproofing and spread it over the entire floor space.
4. Prepare a mixture of cement and sawdust. It should be a deep gray.
5. Spread the mixture over the entire space of the ceiling slab.
6. You can walk on a layer of insulation to compact it. This will allow the mixture to set better and keep the heat out.

If there is access to the attic of the room, this method is the most suitable and cheapest. If you have to carry out the insulation of the ceiling in wooden house only from the inside, you have to choose a different method.

Why are roll materials good?

Mineral wool and glass wool, as well as other rolled insulation reliably protect the room, but it is difficult to work with them: small particles crumble and fall into the mouth, nose, eyes. To avoid injury, you must take care of yourself and prepare protective clothing and goggles.

Scheme of ceiling insulation with roll materials, mats and bulk materials

Sequence of stages:

1. Nails are stuffed onto the rough surface. In this case, it is necessary to hammer not on the cap, but so that they stick out a little. Then threads are pulled on them using the zigzag technique.
2. The insulation itself is laid. It is better to do the work not alone, but with a partner: one will lay the rolls, and the other will pull the thread. So it will turn out to stick the glass wool better.
3. An anti-condensation film is attached.
4. Now you can nail in the nails tighter to press the layer more tightly.
5. You can nail drywall sheets or attach a false ceiling.

Attention: work requires care and attention. Care must be taken that there are no gaps: they are a source of cold and condensation.

Clay

Wide famous materialthat is able to keep warm. Used only when adding other materials. Sawdust and glassine are usually added.

Clay perfectly retains heat, therefore it is used for insulation

Sequence of work:

• lay glassine or any other analogue;
• mix clay and sawdust (prepare a solution);
• apply the mixture in a layer of 15 cm, let dry. If there are cracks, rub them with clay.

Insulation from the inside

What if there is no access to the space above the ceiling? There is an exit. True, one should be prepared for the fact that the height will decrease slightly. The insulation will now be on the inside. How to carry out the work?

It's simple: first there is a layer of vapor barrier, then a heater, then another layer of vapor barrier.

Why are two layers needed? They prevent the rafters, ceiling from the inside and insulation from becoming damp. Only then can the decorative ceiling be hemmed. How to do the work?

1. The first layer of vapor barrier is attached. The same glassine will do. It can be smeared with glue in several places.
2. A mounting rail is packed through the vapor barrier. It is better not to rush and do everything as carefully as possible: holes are drilled in the mounting rails for self-tapping screws, then you need to carefully tighten them with a screwdriver.
3. Thermal insulation is fixed. The foam is inserted between the slats.
4. The second layer of the vapor barrier is attached to the rail.
5. The whole structure is masked by PVC panels.

Expanded clay

Another simplest and most affordable method after sawdust. Pros:

• ecologicaly clean;
• unlike sawdust, it does not burn;
• resistant to temperature changes;
• not afraid of rodents, fungi and insects;
• simple installation technology;
• low price;
• easy to do with your own hands.

Expanded clay insulation scheme

All work is carried out outside. First, the already mentioned steam and waterproofing are carried out. Even a simple PVC film will do. It is better not to use roofing material: it can release harmful toxins. Stages of work:

1. The pipe outlet and wiring are insulated with non-combustible materials. Iron sheets or metal pipes.
2. Waterproofing is rolled out over the entire area... The joints must be processed. Waterproofing is securely fixed with a stapler or special tape.
3. Vapor barrier is being laid... Overlapping technology is suitable. Then everything is fixed with a stapler.
4. On the vapor barrier layer, you need to lay 5 cm of crushed soft clay.
5. Expanded clay is already poured onto the clay... How to determine layer thickness? It can be 15 cm or more.
6. A screed is laid on expanded clay - a layer of cement and sand... This will protect the material.

1. There is a foam ceiling tile - it itself protects pretty well from the cold.
2. Do not dwell on ceiling insulation. Walls and floors can also allow heat to pass through.
3. If you have difficulties with do-it-yourself insulation, it is better to contact the masters who will do everything correctly. An unreliably insulated ceiling is practically useless.
4. Plasterboard lining requires the use of a galvanized iron profile. Why is this needed? If this is not done, you can soon suffer from the fallen structure.
5. In a wooden house, it is better to insulate the ceiling in the summer months, so that by autumn and cold weather the excess moisture has time to evaporate.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house will protect the room from the inside from heat loss. If the ceiling is not insulated, all the work should be done immediately upon arrival.

According to researchers of the thermal conductivity of materials and structures, from 25 to 40% of the heat carried by the air leaves through the ceiling in the house. Naturally, this figure changes depending on specific conditions - the type of ceiling, the location of the floors in the house, etc. But be that as it may, the ceiling is the most vulnerable place for heat loss after windows and doors, where there is a direct heat leak. Therefore, it is impossible to underestimate the insulation of the ceiling. Saving materials in this part of construction inevitably leads to further financial costs of heating during the operation of the building.

Do I need to insulate the ceiling with a cold roof

In order to understand whether it is worthwhile to insulate the ceiling in a house with cold roof, you need to get acquainted with the structure of the roof as a whole.

The roof protects living quarters from all types of precipitation

The roof (or roof) is the upper part of a building that covers the entire structure.

Its main purpose is to protect the building from rain and snow, as well as to drain melt water.

As you can see from the definition, the function of the roof does not include the task of keeping warm in the house. Therefore, it is often designed based on the tasks of drainage, without any insulation.

If no insulation is put into the roofing pie, the result is a classic cold roof design.

Roof shapes are very diverse. Differs in variety and materials from which the roofing sheet is made. But be that as it may, roofers are responsible only for the waterproofness of the roof, but in no case for the thermal insulation. Moreover, in order to avoid damage to materials, the occurrence of stagnant and putrefactive processes in the rafters and logs, it is customary to build the attic in such a way that it is well ventilated. In this case, moisture harmful to wood and metal does not accumulate under the coating. It is important that there is no difference in air temperature between the outside and the inside. Then moisture does not condense on the supporting elements, and the roof will last as long as possible.

But this raises the problem of keeping heat inside the building, which is especially relevant in the northern regions. It is solved in two ways, each of which has its own characteristics.

1. Warm roofing device. Such roofs have appeared quite recently, with the advent of synthetic-based insulating materials. An insulating layer is placed on the inside of the roof, completely isolating the attic space from the external environment. Today, builders have learned to insulate the entire roof plane with high quality and at the same time prevent the occurrence of a dew point inside the insulation. The lion's share of the merit in this belongs to the chemical industry, which produces polymer (roll and spray) insulation. The big disadvantage of such technologies is the high cost of installation and materials. But as a result, an additional room appears in the building, suitable for housing or other household needs - clubs, gyms and even saunas are located in the attics.

   The classic scheme for the device of a roofing cake of an insulated roof involves laying an insulation and a vapor barrier layer

2. Device cold roof with insulation of the attic floor. This method is more traditional, used for more than one generation. In this case, there is no need to insulate the roof slopes, all attention is paid directly to the overlap between the living and attic rooms. The space under the roof remains an auxiliary place for storing things, drying fruits, mushrooms, etc. Sometimes the attic is equipped for living in the warm season, turning it into a summer attic. In comparison with a warm roof, this method of thermal insulation is much cheaper. In addition, the big advantage of a cold roof is its simplicity, reliability and availability for repair.

   When installing a cold roof, the floors of the first floor are insulated by laying insulation plates between the ceiling beams

The choice of the type of roof in the house depends on different circumstances. Below we will consider the second, more common option.

How best to insulate the ceiling

First of all, you need to figure out exactly how to insulate the ceiling: from the outside or from the inside.

From the side of the attic, insulating the ceiling is much more comfortable. This work, frankly, is dusty. And if people live in a house or apartment during the work, then all household utensils and the owners themselves will experience, albeit temporary, discomfort. External insulation has a number of advantages.

1. You can use synthetic materials that will harm human health inside the dwelling. For example, polyurethane spraying, one of the most effective thermal insulation coatings, should not be applied to the ceiling from the inside of the house in the same way as foam, mineral or basalt wool. All of these materials retain heat well, but emit harmful gases and corrosive dust into the atmosphere.
2. If the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete slabs, then it accumulates excess heat. When the air inside the house cools down, the stove gives off heat back. But for this it is necessary that the thermal insulation is on the outside.
3. If the floor is wooden (logs or beams), then attic insulation doubly beneficial. The load-bearing elements of the ceiling, which are themselves an excellent thermal insulator, together with an additional layer on top, give a very good overall result.
4. Power fire hazard when insulated from the attic side, it is much lower. Even if a non-combustible insulation is used inside the house, there is always a threat of collapse of suspended, glued or stretch ceilings.

The operational reports of the Main Directorate of the Ministry of Emergency Situations describe real incidents when people receive severe burns and respiratory tract poisoning during fires in houses with installed stretch ceilings... The material of such ceilings is flammable, and when heated, it strongly deforms, stretches and falls, covering all living things with a suffocating sheet.

Ceiling insulation technologies for a cold roof

For insulation, a variety of materials are used - natural or synthetic. Depending on this, various technologies for laying insulation are used.

The main principle of attic floor insulation is to create the most sealed layer that prevents heat leakage. This problem is solved by eliminating air leaks and eliminating cold bridges in the elements of the roof structure.

Natural materials for outside ceiling insulation

They were used even when the chemical industry did not exist. But many people today return precisely to these means of keeping warm in the house. The distinctive properties of such materials are low cost and environmental friendliness.

Sawdust and shavings

The construction of wooden houses generates a lot of waste, including sawdust and shavings. But this is not enough for a full-fledged insulation of floors. Therefore, you have to buy them. Fortunately, the price of such material is usually junk. A large amount of sawdust accumulates at furniture factories and sawmills, you can always agree on delivery. When choosing this insulation, you need to consider three important features.

Clay itself is an excellent heat insulator. The only drawback is its weight. Therefore, various lightweight options are often used. Straw or wood chips are added to the clay slurry. The proportion is selected in such a way that the coating does not lose its plasticity and easily fills any cracks. The advantage of such insulation is that clay is almost everywhere, it does not need to be further processed - just diluted in water. Usually, a construction trough is used, from which it is then convenient to transfer the resulting mixture to the insulated area. After drying, the resulting cracks are treated with a liquid solution with the addition of sand. The coating layer is adjusted according to climatic conditions. It can be from 15–20 to 30 cm. The main advantage of clay insulation is high fire safety. In addition to using clay as the main insulation, it is often used as an additional coating over combustible materials.

Clay diluted with fillers is poured between the lags and leveled with the rule

This type of natural insulation is rarely used today. Mainly due to the fact that it burns very well. But mixed with clay or pressed straw is practically free from this disadvantage. If there is a collective farm next to the building where wheat or rye is cultivated (and rye is preferable), you can order straw compressed into bales of the desired shape. Installation work takes a little time and does not require any special devices... Moreover, the heat-saving effect is very high. The optimal insulation layer is 25-30 cm. Processing with fire retardants is desirable. The price is very affordable.

Straw compressed into bales practically does not support combustion

Reed as insulation

Reed grows around many bodies of water. Its preparation is a rather painstaking process. For home insulation, reeds are used tied in mats (preferably with metal wire). They are laid between the lags in several layers, while filling the seams and cracks. Distinctive feature reed is considered to be its resistance to rodents and long service life. Even if moisture gets on the mat, it does not lose its properties and does not rot. The ignition temperature of reeds is much higher than that of straw or sawdust.

Tied mats of reed stalks are laid between the load-bearing slabs

Leaves, dried grass, moss

Today it is a rather exotic and rare way of warming. However, it is still used in countryside, as well as in the construction of hunting huts and forest cordons. Preference is given to the leaves of oak, hornbeam and needles (from moss - lichen). Necessary condition the use of such a material is dryness and coating on top with a reliable non-combustible material, for example, the same clay or slag. Over time, the grass and leaves are compressed into a hard layer that cannot be set on fire. The initial thickness of the embankment is from 20 cm.

Moss is a versatile insulation that is used not only inside but also outside the building

Seaweed

With tons of algae washed ashore every year, coastal residents have learned to use this natural material to insulate their homes. As a rule, it is Kamka - a type of long, branched algae with a strong structure. Dried and collected in large armfuls, they are evenly distributed over the entire plane of the attic floor. They can be laid even not completely dried - over time, the plants fill the smallest holes and acquire a tough texture. They are not afraid of changes in air humidity, mold and rodents. For a long time, kamka releases iodine accumulated in seawater into the atmosphere, cleaning the air from bacteria.

Algae are mainly used in coastal areas where they are usually abundant.

Artificial insulation for outdoor ceiling mounting

If working with natural materials does not cause big questions for the user, then synthetic insulation requires strict compliance with technological conditions. Failure to comply with the rules of operation sometimes leads to the exact opposite result. Before you carry out the insulation yourself, you should carefully read the properties, conditions of use and installation technology. This group of materials includes the following heaters.

Expanded clay

A very common insulation that is used in both private and industrial construction. Meets the requirement fire safety, does not support combustion at all. It is made from clay by foaming and firing. Has a small specific gravity, easy to transport and operate. There are several fractions of expanded clay, depending on the size of the granules. For the insulation of private houses, expanded clay is most often used with a grain size of 4 to 10 mm. When filling with expanded clay mixture, a waterproofing or vapor barrier layer must be pre-laid. This type of insulation is applicable to all types of buildings. Positive qualities environmental friendliness and unlimited service life are considered. Since expanded clay consists of natural clay, it does not cause any allergic reaction in people with hypersensitivity. Most often, the space between the logs is filled with insulation, which is then covered with boards. But this is not required. It is permissible to use it without additional casing. The height of the embankment is adjusted according to local weather conditions.

A layer of expanded clay is poured into the space between the logs and covered with a layer of vapor barrier

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is made from a silicon-based glassy material. Release form - rolls and mats different sizes... For private construction, this insulation is recommended only on condition that it does not openly come into contact with the living space. This is due to the unfavorable effect of fine dust, which the material emits during installation, on the human mucous membrane. Suitable for use in closed structures such as plasterboard partitions, ceilings or walls. When using mineral wool, it is imperative to use a membrane film as a barrier for small particles that spread through the air.

Mineral wool must be laid in rows close to each other in order to exclude the formation of cold bridges

Filling with cotton is carried out only in a respirator and gloves. Once in the lungs, fine dust can cause illness. For best results, the gaps should be carefully filled, the gap between the mats should not exceed 2 mm. The carpet is cut with a sharp long knife.

Video: how to properly insulate the ceiling with mineral wool in a private house

As the name suggests, this material is made from hard basalt rock. As a result - high strength, ductility and moisture resistance. Mats and rolls of basalt wool covered with metal foil are produced - this increases the thermal insulation properties of the insulation. The range of applications is very wide - from blast furnaces to conventional baths. It can be used wherever there is a need to maintain high temperatures inside an enclosed space. Of all types of construction wool, basalt insulation is best suited for private construction. However, one should not forget that phenol-formaldehyde resins, which are part of the adhesive components, are a common weak link in such materials. Over time, the substance passes a half-life stage and harmful gases are released into the surrounding space. Formaldehyde resins belong to a group of carcinogens that increase the risk of cancer.

When laying foil basalt wool, the metal film is directed down

Laying the mats does not require any special preparation. However, do not forget about the rules of personal safety. You need to cut the roll on a solid support, placing a board under the cut, or with large scissors. The optimal result is achieved if the cotton wool does not wrinkle.

Insulating residential buildings with slag is not recommended. It is produced from metallurgical waste, in particular, blast furnace slag. It has a low cost, but at the same time absorbs moisture very well, after which it releases acid, which negatively affects other structural elements (especially metals).

The use of slag wool is allowed only for rough assembly work outside the premises

Ecowool

Ecowool appeared on the insulation market relatively recently, it was launched into mass production 5-7 years ago, after it was recognized as one of the best materials in its industry. It is made from natural cellulose by recycling paper and wood waste with the addition of natural dyes and binders. Ecowool gained popularity due to technological features and styling possibilities mechanized way... Insulation is applied both manually and using special equipment. The ready-to-use liquid mixture is supplied to the insulated surface by a compressor unit with high performance. As a result, a seamless layer of a given thickness is created, which, when solidified, forms a hard crust. From the point of view of fire safety, ecowool belongs to the category of self-extinguishing materials. Manual laying is also quite quick, since the mixture is lightweight and easy to handle. Experts believe that ecological wool has a great future in construction.

Mechanized application of ecowool significantly increases labor productivity

There are two ways to insulate with ecowool:

1. Wet. The preparation of the working mixture is carried out in a special installation for spraying. The binder is lignite, which has excellent adhesion. Insulation can be applied to both horizontal and vertical surfaces. It is rarely used for insulating private houses, since it involves the use of expensive equipment.
   

   Before applying ecowool, a metal or wooden crate is mounted on the surface to be insulated

2. Dry. This method is much more affordable, since from the tools only an electric drill with a mixer and a volumetric bucket are needed. The calculation of the batch is made according to the formula m \u003d S * L * p, where m is the mass of the solution, S is the area of \u200b\u200bthe covered surface, L is the thickness of the insulation layer, p is the specific weight of the insulation (ranges from 45 to 65 kg / m 3 depending on the ramming ).
   

   Ecowool insulation is prepared in a construction bucket using a mixer

Video: insulation of the ceiling with ecowool

Polystyrene

Polystyrene possesses excellent heat-insulating properties, the composition contains 90–95% air. Produced in the form of plates and mats different density and destination. However, for all its practicality and affordable price for insulation it is used in a limited range, due to the fact that it emits toxic carbon monoxide when heated and burned. The disadvantages also include the inability to pass air, which leads to moisture condensation. The technology of laying in wooden floors is simple. Polystyrene sheets are cut to the required size and laid in one plane between the supporting beams. Fastening is carried out with special adhesives and additional fixation by means of plastic mushroom dowels. Seams are filled with construction foam, and a cement screed of small thickness (but not less than 5 cm) is poured from above.

If it is possible to select polystyrene sheets strictly according to the size of the span between the beams, the insulation will be much more effective.

Polyurethane insulation

Two-component polyurethane foam is intended for industrial facilities in areas with low temperature indicators. The coating is usually two-layer and requires the use of special equipment. The working composition is applied under pressure; at least two people are required to work.

The advantages of polyurethane foam:

• high performance characteristics;
• resistance to mechanical stress and moisture drops;
• good sealing properties. The material covers the entire area with a rigid foamed polymer layer;
• simple processing after hardening - with a knife or saw.

However, it should be said that spraying polyurethane foam is a rather expensive technology, which is used mainly for office premises: hangars, warehouses, garages.

The application of the polyurethane layer is carried out by a qualified operator in a protective suit using special techniques

Video: how to choose a heater

Internal ceiling insulation methods

Sometimes, nevertheless, there are cases when insulation has to be done inside a dwelling. For example, if the attic is not available. Then they use internal insulation, which are classified as follows.

1. Frame structures are a type of false ceiling that uses raster elements to secure the finishing material at the desired level. Suspended ceilings are used for insulation both independently and in combination with other insulation:
   • stretch ceiling. Consist of a one-piece canvas stretched along the entire plane of the room and fixed around the perimeter metal profiles... The installation of such ceilings is carried out by specialized organizations. It is impossible to independently make and install the canvas, since this requires a cutting workshop and heat guns... But you can insulate the existing ceiling with foam mats without outside help. In this case, the same techniques are used as when laying mats in the attic: glue and plastic dowels, fungi. To neutralize the harmful effects of polymers, the insulation is covered on both sides with membrane moisture-proof films. You can fix them with a stapler or double-sided tape. When the installation is completed, you can invite a team of stretch ceiling installers;

     The installation of a stretch ceiling can be carried out immediately after the insulation of the floor

   • slatted ceilings consist of a load-bearing frame firmly attached to the ceiling and metal (or plastic) slats that form one or more planes. The algorithm for preparing for installation is similar to stretch ceilings, only at the beginning the frame fasteners are mounted (as a rule, wire suspensions), and then the insulation is attached. By itself, the slatted ceiling cannot interfere with heat transfer; it plays the role of a cosmetic cladding. Therefore, it is necessary to install the insulation carefully, having previously putty all the holes and cracks in the ceiling;

     The slatted ceiling does not have an additional heat-insulating effect, therefore the insulation under it must be laid in a dense and even layer

   • plasterboard ceilings are a separate item, since they are recognized as the optimal solution to the issue of finishing floors. Certified materials and technologies (for example, Knauf systems) ensure that the desired result is obtained at the output. Qualified engineers work on the development of systems, all materials are tested. Since leading developers conduct research within the framework of maximum consumer safety, foam insulation is not considered in principle. The danger and risks to humans are too great. Ceilings are insulated only with mineral wool, such as Ursa, Rockwool and others, recognized as minimally dangerous. Rolls or mats are placed in a pre-assembled frame and covered with plastic wrap. Then the gypsum boards are installed. All joints between the slabs are carefully puttyed twice with a gypsum composition, the gaps between false ceiling and walls are treated with acrylic sealant. If luminaires are provided in the ceiling, they are installed last. Moreover, it is allowed to use only factory models of lamps in which the nominal voltage does not cause the risk of fire.

     The insulation is installed after the installation of the raster structure

2. Gluing insulation on load-bearing ceiling... There is a group of materials designed for ceiling insulation without subsequent cladding. It includes:
   • foam panels. They differ from conventional insulation on the outside. This is usually a decorative surface with a repeating pattern. The thickness of such plates is about 1.5–3 cm. They are lightweight and adhere well to a flat ceiling with glue. Sometimes there are such products with locks at the edges. This increases the tightness of the coating as a whole. In this case, do not forget to lubricate the edges with sealant during installation;

     Installation of foam panels, in addition to insulation, well masks defects in concrete floor slabs

   • cork lining. It is used in rooms with increased safety requirements. For example, in children's rooms. It has a pleasant natural texture and does not emit toxic substances. Fixed with adhesive sealant directly to the main ceiling. The only drawback is the high price.

     The cork can be used to insulate not only ceilings, but also walls inside the building

3. Special plasters. Such materials for insulation appeared just a few years ago and came to the free sale from innovative industries (aircraft, military and space technology). For example, heat-insulating putty of the Akterm series with a layer of 1 mm is equivalent in its thermal characteristics to 5 cm of polystyrene. Inside the composition are ceramic hollow balls several microns in size. Working with this coating requires special skills. It is important to scrupulously maintain the ratio of all components when preparing the composition. Today, the massive use of such high-tech materials is limited by the price of the product and is rarely used in everyday life.

   Water pipes coated with Akterm are not afraid of frost

Video: ceiling insulation for drywall

In conclusion, I would like to note that the insulation of the ceiling is not difficult. However, it requires precision and accurate knowledge of material properties. Over time, some of the insulation shrinks or becomes saturated with moisture. If you do not respond in time, the level of protection against temperature fluctuations will decrease. Therefore, once a year, you need to do an audit and check the condition of the insulation.

Most people try to insulate the walls in a private house as best as possible to avoid heat loss. In fact, 60% of the heat energy escapes through the ceiling, because warm air tends to rise up and out through the ceiling slabs. In addition, there is always a high level of humidity in the ceiling area, hence the mold and mildew in the corners. The insulated ceiling will not only make the house more comfortable, but also protect the property from damage.

Ceiling insulation methods

In a private house, ceiling insulation becomes task number 1. To insulate the ceiling and reduce heat loss, you can use the following methods:

• Insulation of the ceiling from the inside... This is the case if under the roof there is not an attic, but an attic.Of wooden beams a frame is constructed, which is attached to the ceiling using a perforator and dowels-nails. Inside the frame is filled various heaters, and a vapor barrier is placed between the ceiling and the insulation. Then the insulated ceiling is sheathed with plasterboard. The disadvantage of this method is the "concealment" of a significant part of the ceiling, as well as the complexity of the work.
• Insulation of the ceiling outside... This method is good if there is an attic under the roof. It also has its own variations depending on the type of insulation.

Foam insulation

Before starting the insulation process, you need to free the attic from excess trash, sweep out all the garbage, and spend wet cleaning down to clean concrete. According to the size of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room to be insulated, it is necessary to purchase the appropriate amount of foam not less than 40 mm thickor styrene foam, but it will cost much more. Both materials have low thermal conductivityand high resistance to damage by microorganisms. The entire floor space is covered with foam sheets, the joints are glued polyurethane foam... A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the foam and poured screed with a layer of at least 50 mm.This procedure is necessary if the attic will be used.

Disadvantages of Styrofoam:

• questionable fire retardant properties, added flame retardants are short-lived
• exudes formaldehyde
• rodents grow in it
• there is a "greenhouse effect", the room must be frequently ventilated

Foam and penoizol installation technology

The effectiveness of thermal insulation when using penoizol is much higher than when installing ready-made foam boards. Plates can loosely adhere to the supporting frame, forming cracks and "cold bridges". Pouring with penoizol saves transportation costs, electricity. Penoizol adheres tightly to the wall thanks to its constituent resins. It dries up within 15-20 minutes. The only drawback is that it is impossible to pour penoizol on your own. The whole procedure should be carried out by specialists.

To install foam plates you will need:

1. styrofoam
2. drywall sheets
3. metal profile or wooden slats
4. a hammer
5. polyurethane foam
6. waterproofing material
7. screwdriver
8. glassine waterproofer, which is made of roofing cardboard and impregnated with bitumen. It prevents moisture from penetrating into the thermal insulation layers.
9. fasteners - screws and self-tapping screws, sometimes nails
10. hacksaw

There are two ways to mount foam boards: frame and adhesive... The preparatory process for both methods is the same. The length and width of the area are carefully measured. These indicators are multiplied, and the area is obtained. Based on it, the appropriate amount of foam plates with a minimum thickness of 5 cm is purchased. surface is processedto which the boards will be glued. Old whitewash, plaster is removed, dust and dirt are washed off. Can even surface finish antiseptic... Apply a coat of primer to make the surface even. If possible, replace with a newer existing electrical system.

The glue method has its own nuances. In order for the foam to adhere well to the ceiling surface, it is necessary follow temperature regime not lower than 50C and not higher than 250C . Ordinary tile adhesive can be used as the glue. It can also be used to process the surface to which the plates will be attached. After it dries, you can continue installation work. Glue is applied to the foam sheet and the wall, hold for 2-3 minutes and press the foam to the surface.

You can also use dowels with large caps. In the same way, the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe insulated surface is pasted over. After the entire ceiling has been insulated, all joints and cracks are carefully coated with glue or polyurethane foam to enhance the tightness. When the glue or foam is dry, you can reinforce the ceiling... For this, a special solution is applied to the foam sheets, into which the fiberglass mesh is immersed. Another layer of solution is applied on top. It is necessary to wait until the solution is completely dry, and only then continue the installation work.

With the frame method of mounting foam, wooden or metal slats are attached to a pre-cleaned and primed surface so that cells are obtained. Cell size depends on the size of the foam boards... For example, if the plates are 1/1 m in size, then the cells must be made 50/50 cm. Accordingly, during installation, the foam sheet will need to be cut into 4 equal squares. In the case of using an aluminum profile, metal strips are attached to the ceiling using a puncher and self-tapping screws.

A sheet of polystyrene is inserted into the grooves obtained, coated on the side from all sides with "liquid nails" for reliable gluing of the plates with the supporting structure. A whole sheet of foam is inserted into the aluminum slats and fixed with self-tapping screws. Further also reinforcement is in progress: a special solution is applied, a reinforced mesh is applied and a fill layer is applied again. Everything, the insulated ceiling is ready. If desired, drywall can be sewn over whole foam boards.

Penoizol as insulation for the ceiling

Penoizol is expanded foam in liquid form. For the installation of penoizol, special equipment must be used. It is not very expensive in cost, and it is easy for them to fill in hard-to-reach places. Penoizol is fireproof, hygroscopic, and has low thermal conductivity. Rodents are not found in it, it is not affected by microorganisms. Penoizol can be operated at temperatures from -600C to + 80C.The material has high sound insulation properties. The environmental friendliness and safety of penoizol has been confirmed by numerous experiments.

Penoizol installation technology

Is done wooden or metal mesh frame, the cells of which are filled with penoizol. It, spreading, fills the entire space. Gradually, it polymerizes and becomes an excellent insulation. When using it, you do not need to use either a steam or a waterproofer.

Warm ceiling with mineral wool

This material is classified into glass wool, ceramic, slag and stone wool... Types of glass wool are modern materials for insulation Rocklight, Technoblock, Technovent, Technolight, Technoruf, Technofas, etc. The raw material for the production of the material is basalt, limestone, diabase or dolomite. The highest quality mineral wool is obtained from rocks.

When using mineral wool, it is necessary to wear work clothes, goggles and a respirator, because particles of the material irritate the skin. After installation, mineral wool becomes safe for humans. Before using it, you must clean the surface from debris and dirt. to the state of pure concrete... A frame for the future floor is made of wooden beams. Measurements are made, logs are mounted, a vapor barrier is laid, glassine is better. Sheets of mineral wool are placed on top of it, but this should not be done too tightly, cotton wool cannot be squeezed... To make the floor even warmer, you can put mineral wool in two layers, with the upper layer overlapping the joints of the lower one. Next, the flooring is laid, which is attached to the wooden frame.

Disadvantages:

• the material must not be removed and tamped down, because it may lose its thermal insulation properties
• mineral wool must be carefully protected from moisture
• even a small gap can reduce the heat capacity of the ceiling
• together with mineral wool, another moisture-insulating material is also used, which makes the process more expensive and complicated
• needs to be changed every 10-15 years

Mineral wool installation technology

To begin with, you need to calculate exactly how much you need to buy insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier materials. Remember that working with glass wool produces dust that irritates the skin and mucous membranes of the eyes. Therefore it is necessary purchase protective clothing and goggles, respirator, mittens. It is also necessary to turn off the ventilation system while working with mineral wool so that dust does not penetrate there. For installing mineral wool you will need the following:

1. insulation
2. wooden slats (width 150 mm, thickness 30 mm) or galvanized profile
3. perforator
4. self-tapping screws
5. large scissors
6. protective equipment
7. vapor barrier
8. metal staples
9. roulette

If the house is wooden, then wooden slats.A waterproofer is placed on the wooden floor with an overlap of 10 cm. The crate is attached on top. The distance between the slats is 50-60 cm. The mineral wool is unpacked just before installation. The insulation is cut into pieces according to the width corresponding to the distance between the slats plus 2 cm for a snug fit.

Between the waterproofing and the insulation is done a gap of 1-2 cm for natural air circulation.The mineral wool is placed tightly enough so that no creases or crevices form. Then a vapor barrier with an overlap of 10 cm is attached perpendicular to the rafters from above and attached to the wooden slats with a stapler. All seams are carefully sealed with mounting tape. This will strengthen the tightness of the structure.

It is a cellulose based material, absolutely harmless to humans.Ecowool consists of 81% recycled cellulose, a paper processing product, 12% antiseptic, 7% fire retardants. The fibers contain lingin, which makes the structure stickier. The material is resilient and resilient enough not to shrink, and at the same time has a capillary structurethanks to which the ceiling "breathes". Ecowool protects the surface from the spread of fungus, and rodents are not found in it. In contact with metal structures no corrosion, and in case of fire the material smolders, but does not burn.

• during installation, a lot of dust is emitted from ecowool from boron wool
• installation can only be carried out by specialists using special equipment
• ecowool should not be used near a fire source or high temperatures (bath), otherwise the ecowool starts to smolder

Ecowool installation technology

Manual way of installing ecowool complicated and tiring... A material installed by an unqualified technician reduces its efficiency by 20-30%. There are two ways of mechanical installation of ecowool: dry and wet. The dry method is convenient when insulating the attic. The use of special Tyvek-type membrane films makes it possible to pump ecowool not only into horizontal, but also inclined and vertical surfaces. For this on special equipmentfill the ecowool cavity of the building frame under air pressure.

The wet installation method arose due to the ability of ecowool, when wetted with water, to adhere to any surface due to the special substance of lignin included in its composition. Wet ecowool groans viscous and sticky, and using a pneumatic installation under air pressure, ecowool is sprayed and adheres tightly to the surface. After drying, a uniform and homogeneous layer is formed with soundproofing ability.

If it is not possible to make surface cladding, then apply wet glue applicationecowool. With this method, ecowool is treated not with water, but with an adhesive solution, which significantly enhances the adhesive ability of the material.

Thermal insulation with ecowool should be carried out by specialists, then the material 100% realizes all its advantages.

How to insulate the ceiling with sawdust

This method obsolete, but is still used to insulate ceilings.

Disadvantages:

• shrink, they need to be added
• fire hazardous

Sawdust insulation technology

First you need to replace the electrical wiring, insulate it in metal pipes, and also insulate the chimney. To use sawdust as a heater, you will need:

1. sawdust
2. lime
3. cement
4. copper sulfate

Preparing sawdust for laying. It is difficult for one person to cope, he needs an assistant. In a large spacious barrel, 10 buckets of sawdust, 12 buckets of lime and 1 bucket of cement are mixed. Everything is well mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

Water is poured into a 10 liter watering can, poured a few spoons copper sulfate as an antiseptic... Slowly the contents of the watering can is poured into the barrel with the sawdust mixture. If, with a clenched fist, the mixture ceases to release moisture, then it is ready for use.

Glassine is spread around the entire perimeter of the ceiling and fastened with adhesive tape or galvanized clamps. On the surface of glassine the sawdust mixture is laid out evenly... You do not need to tamp it too hard. Smooth the surface and allow it to dry for at least 2 weeks. That's it, the insulation is ready. Only walking on it is not recommended, therefore the premises should not be exploited.

Ceiling insulation with clay

Clay is considered environmentally friendly, fire resistant and inexpensive means of roof insulation. To use sawdust and clay as insulation, you will need:

• sawdust
• lime
• cement
• copper sulfate

Clay insulation installation technology

From beams, bars and planks, antiseptic, a special overlap is made (described earlier), where the clay will be poured. The bottom of the floor is lined with polyethylene or PVC foil, which is attached to the beams and boards with a stapler. In a concrete mixer or a large barrel, 5-6 buckets of clay (which you can dig up in your garden) diluted until completely dissolved with water. Then sawdust is added and mixed until the mixture is not too wet or very dense. The resulting mixture is laid out on the floors between the beams in a layer of 5-10 cm. You must wait until the clay is completely dry. This may take over a month. To speed up the process, you need to provide good ventilation in the attic. On a clay surface small cracks may appear, but they are then easily overwritten.

Disadvantages:

• under the clay, the tree can become moldy and rot
• with an incorrect ratio of clay and sawdust, thermal conductivity increases and heat is lost

Expanded clay for ceiling insulation

Expanded clay is a lightweight refractory material made from fired clay of low-melting grades. Glassine is placed on the floor and reinforcing mesh is lined, expanded clay pours out on top of all this. It is heat and sound insulating, resistant to moisture, rodents are not found in it. Expanded clay acts as a thermal cushion, which is poured from above with a screed. For the installation of expanded clay insulation will need the following:

1. expanded clay
2. waterproofer
3. vapor barrier
4. adhesive tape, aluminum tape
5. stapler
6. staples

The technology of installing expanded clay insulation

This technology is similar to the technology of laying other heaters such as clay or sawdust. First, the surface on which expanded clay will be poured is cleaned of dirt and old whitewash. A honeycomb structure is made from wooden beams over the entire surface. Then, with an overlap of 10 cm, they spread wide strips of waterproofing... The joints are glued together with tape. After fixing, a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the waterproofer and a layer of expanded clay is poured. Its surface is leveled. A vapor barrier sheet is laid on top of the expanded clay layer and attached to wooden slats stapler or metal staples... A vapor barrier is placed on top of the expanded clay layer and beams, which is also fixed to wooden structure stapler and staples.

Disadvantages:

• the material is heavy
• air "walks" between the granules
• requires subsequent filling or vapor barrier
• you need special equipment for quality work

Foil insulation

Wood itself is a regulator of heat and humidity, so foil insulation is best used in a room with a concrete floor. When using it, you can exclude the use of a vapor barrier. Foil by itself good heat conductor... Foil polystyrene foam is produced in sheets of 60/120 cm and has a thickness of 2-10 cm.

The sheets have stepped locks to exclude "cold bridges". Foil polyethylene foam can be one-sided and two-sided. The material also has a thickness of 2-10 cm, and is available in rolls 1-1.2 m wide and 25-30 m long and looks like a carpet runner. Sometimes a layer of mineral wool is covered with foil-clad polyethylene. Thus, thermal insulation is enhanced, and the release of carcinogens from mineral wool is reduced. Foil glass wool is produced in the form of mats, complemented by a reinforced mesh. Usually, foil insulation is used to insulate the ceiling and walls of a bath or steam room.

Foil insulation installation technology

According to the method described above, a cellular structure is made from wooden beams or metal planks. Foil insulation is cut to the size of the cell with scissors of the required size and fixed with a construction stapler. The foil side should "face" the room and not the floor. Sometimes manufacturers produce foil insulation already applied to the surface a layer of glue.

Sheets of foil-clad insulation are placed end-to-end, and the joints are glued with a special aluminum adhesive tape. Thus, a surface is obtained that perfectly reflects heat rays. If you plan to use drywall or lining on top of the foil insulation, then you need to make an air gap of 1-2.5 cm between the insulation and the final finish. Otherwise foil will heat up and warp the building material. Everything, the insulation is ready. Simply and easily!

Disadvantage- a tree under a foil insulation, if laid loosely, can rot and rot.

Builders often ask for a lot of money for roof insulation work. This is motivated by the fact that these are labor-intensive works that are carried out on weight. To save money,wooden house you can do it yourself. No special qualifications are needed here, no special equipment is required. And it doesn't matter if your roof is made of ondulin, metal or slate, gable or broken structure... However, modern insulating materials and proven technology of cold roof insulation have many nuances that you need to know.

It is not difficult to make the roof warm, and the premises of a private wooden house suitable for year-round living. The main thing is to create good conditions to keep warm inside the attic. How to insulate the roof, what materials to use, we will consider in this article. Warming issues can be resolved both during the construction of the house and after the reconstruction of the upper floor.

Cold roof features

In accordance with the laws of physics and convection processes, warm air masses rise upward. If there is a cold roof of a wooden house, all the heat will go outside. Such heat loss is forced to additionally heat the premises in the house, consuming electricity or fuel. Therefore, high-quality insulation of ceiling ceilings is the most important task for preserving heat, rational use of heat carriers and creating a microclimate in the house.

Warming mansard roof

Cold is called a gable or sloped roof structure that does not have a multi-layer structure. In such inexpensive and simple roofs, there is no waterproofing, vapor barrier and thermal insulation.

Cold roof insulation

The design scheme of a gable cold roof is very simple - as a rule, a floor of boards is laid on the beams of a wooden floor, and the roof is made of slate or metal tiles, without any insulators. In order to properly insulate a cold roof, you need to know what requirements are imposed on the construction of the ceiling of the upper floor and attic floors. And also you should choose the right insulation material.

Rafters scheme gable roof

Requirements for roof slabs

When starting to insulate a roof made of ondulin, slate or metal, broken or hip, you should know what building codes exist for the floors of a private wooden house. In order not to violate the basic parameters that must be met by the attic design, ceiling insulation andinsulation of the attic roof from the insideshould be carried out taking into account the basic requirements. For attic floors and ceilings, this is strength and compliance with fire safety standards.

Roofing cake

The strength of the attic floors must correspond to the nature of the roof space. If an attic is arranged in the attic, then the floors must withstand the weight of the floors, furniture and people in it. Floor beams must not bend, and the permissible load cannot exceed 100 kg per square meter.

Stress on rafter system gable roof

The second main requirement is that fire safety is especially important for a wooden house. All structural elements must be treated with special fire retardants.

Types of heat-insulating materials

In order to qualitatively insulate the structure wooden ceiling and the entire roof made of metal tiles use a variety of heat insulators.

Types of heaters

Main types:

• foam and foam;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• glass wool;
• Fiberboard;
• foamed polyurethane;

Each of the listed heaters have their own pros and cons. The choice of insulation for the ceiling and for metal tiles depends on a variety of factors. Therefore, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with each type of heat insulators in order to understand the best way to insulate the ceiling ceilings and the entire upper floor.

Insulation of a mansard roof made of metal tiles

Ceiling insulation in a private house is a guarantee of warm rooms in winter and a cool climate in summer. You need to take care of this even at the stage of building a house. But if the house got ready, you can still insulate the ceiling with minimal effort.

School knowledge of physics can still be useful in life. So, due to convection, when cold air goes down and hot air goes up, all the heat accumulated in the room will penetrate through the uninsulated ceiling into the unheated attic. Because of this, it is necessary to increase the power of the boiler and, as a result, incur additional costs for heating.

For the same reason, ceiling insulation requires a more serious approach than wall insulation - due to air flows, heat loss of a wooden ceiling can reach 3 W / m2 / K. For brick or concrete floors, the indicator is even higher. At the same time, there is no need to insulate the ceilings between living quarters if the temperature in them is the same. It is enough to take care of sound insulation and save money on thermal insulation of the attic and roof.

In summer, it is also better to have an insulated ceiling - a roof heated in the sun transfers heat into the room, negating the operation of air conditioners. Having spent one time on thermal insulation, you can enjoy a comfortable microclimate in your home for many years.

What to look for when choosing a heater?

First of all, you need to decide on the place of laying the insulation - inside or outside the living rooms. The first option is highly undesirable for several reasons:

• the height of the ceilings decreases;
• it is impossible to use bulk insulation;
• the cooling point shifts closer to the inner side of the floors;
• inevitable renovation due to the dismantling of the old ceiling.

Attic insulation is devoid of all these negative features. But if the attic is not provided, or the project provides for an attic floor, you need to insulate the roof immediately.

Do-it-yourself choice of materials for insulation

Polyfoam or EPS, as well as mineral wool and its analogs are suitable for insulation from the inside and outside. Such materials are stacked between beams or in a specially constructed frame and covered with plasterboard, OSB plates or clapboard.

But if the house has a sauna, then it is better not to insulate the ceiling above it with expanded polystyrene - due to high temperatures, it can begin to produce substances harmful to humans.

Aerated concrete slabs are also excellent for internal insulation - due to their low weight and ease of installation. Their thickness up to 10 cm will not "eat" a lot of height, while additional cladding is not required. Adhesive for polystyrene boards is applied to the boards with a notched trowel and pressed against the ceiling.

The insulation is putty and painted.

Bulk insulation is quite economical - shavings, ecowool or expanded clay. True, having high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing. Such insulation is poured between the beams from the side of the attic with a layer of about 15 cm, and for ease of movement in the attic they are covered with OSB plates.

True, having high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing.

What kind of insulation does not mice gnaw?

Mice gnaw on any insulation. But not as food, but to expand their moves. You can hear claims that mice eat Styrofoam. This is not entirely true - they gnaw it and build nests in it. But the same fate will befall mineral wool, albeit a little later.

Due to its flowability, ecowool can save a little - but rodents will endure it corny, until they can settle and move normally in a heater. Expanded clay, which is the most resistant to rodents, is strong "stones", large enough so that mice and even rats cannot carry them away, and at the same time small enough to fill up their passages.

But there is a catch here too - the mice will lay down there. Therefore, the only way to protect the insulation is to keep rodents out of it in principle. Everything else is just a temporary and highly unreliable solution.

How to insulate the ceiling of the attic floor?

Do-it-yourself insulation from the attic side is quite simple. First, the space is freed up and the floor covering is completely removed (if any). Work is carried out step by step:

To insulate a concrete floor, the technology is exactly the same - it is enough to lay logs on top of the concrete. Spraying materials can also be used, but this requires special technique and certain skills.

How to insulate the ceiling from the inside?

With the help of a suspended ceiling, you can insulate the room from the inside. For this:

Due to the lack of ventilation, it is undesirable to use spotlights in the insulated ceiling - they heat up and quickly fail. And on contact with the foam, the insulation can begin to melt.

There are three ways to solve the problem. The first is to use only pendant chandeliers and wall lights. The second is to remove the layer of thermal insulation around the lamps built into the ceiling. At the same time, do not forget about the vapor barrier - it should cover the mineral wool without gaps. And the third is to lower the ceiling a few more centimeters, sufficient to install spot lighting.

How to insulate the attic floor and ceiling attic floor, detailed in the video: