Chrysanthemum is a flower with a very unusual history. Its exact homeland is unknown, there are disputes about where this wonderful flower came to us, some say from Japan, others say from China, and still others mention the whole of East Asia.

However, be that as it may, all this does not negate the fact that the chrysanthemum is stunningly beautiful, so beautiful that in the same Japan the highest award is called the Order of the Chrysanthemum, and one emperor ordered a seal with its image.

Perhaps for this history and its beauty, it is not so easy to grow it at home, since many factors will affect its beauty and health. All this and much more is written below.

Chrysanthemum home - description

Domestic chrysanthemum is short. This is due to the fact that it is grown artificially in greenhouses, where its growth is stopped with special equipment for decorative purposes.

Some had to deal with the fact that when buying a cutting and trying to grow it, they ended up with a large bush that looks more like a garden one than a home one. In this regard, it is worth saying a few words about how to choose the right homemade chrysanthemums in pots.

First of all, take a close look at the appearance of the plant. It should be strong, dense, well-developed leaves, and there should be no insects on the trunk. This will allow her to quickly get used to home conditions. So it will not become infected and will not affect the growth of other already established flowers.

What varieties are suitable for growing at home

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home is notable for special difficulties, but if the basic nuances are observed, the plant will delight you with a long, lush flowering. Chrysanthemum flowers are often used to create original bouquets. They look great on their own and also as part of a floral arrangement.

The variety of varieties and varieties will make a bouquet of chrysanthemums a real surprise, allowing you to get away from standard roses and gerberas.

Recently, it has also become popular to give fresh flowers in a pot. The advantages are obvious: a longer flowering period and the possibility of further breeding. At the same time, it often turns out that after the phase of vegetative activity, the plant is considered dead. To prolong the life of a pet and rejoice for a long time beautiful flowers, you can use the advice of our article and grow a full-fledged houseplant.

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Home varieties

Of course, ordinary horticultural crops will not feel comfortable at home. They are too big and cold-loving for this. At the same time, breeders have bred enough varieties of chrysanthemums, the cultivation of which is quite possible to carry out in apartment conditions.

Before buying, be sure to check this point with the seller, and also take care of creating suitable conditions for the pet, which will be discussed a little later.

Varieties of varieties and classification of chrysanthemums

The most common and numerous variety of this flower is the Korean chrysanthemum. There are many varieties of it, and most of them have nothing in common. Basically, the classification is based on the configuration of leaves and inflorescences. Korean varieties are most commonly used for home cultivation.

The Indian chrysanthemum is also very popular, with more refined shapes and the size of the inflorescences. Room options They are distinguished by a relatively high stem, on which a large (up to 15 cm in diameter) flower is located. Most varieties of Indian chrysanthemums are grown as garden plants.

Features of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum multiflora is an almost perfect ball with small-sized inflorescences. A characteristic feature is precisely the shape of the flower, as well as numerous buds and active flowering, which lasts from a month to two. After the flowers fall, you need to cut the stems, then bring the pot into the shelter. You can decorate with such shapes country cottage area, but for wintering it is better to find a warm enough room with good ventilation.

Chrysanthemum zemble is more in demand as a garden culture, but it can also be found among the description of indoor plants. The characteristic features of this plant will be rather large inflorescences, petals rolled into an incomplete tube and a wide range of colors. The most common will be yellow chrysanthemums, but among the breeding varieties there are even greenish and blue flowers.

Chrysanthemum classification

General classification of chrysanthemums:

  • If the size of the inflorescences is less than 80 mm, such varieties are called small-flowered. Large-flowered plants, respectively, are much larger in diameter.
  • According to the shape of the inflorescences, blanket and double-row, double and semi-double are distinguished. You can find a generalized name - spherical chrysanthemum, which combines several groups with round volumetric inflorescences.
  • According to the flowering period, early, medium and late flowering specimens are distinguished. This classification is important if you also want to collect seeds for further flower cultivation. In late-flowering varieties, they, as a rule, do not have time to ripen, therefore they are not suitable for planting.
  • The height of the stem also classifies chrysanthemums into curb (up to 30 cm) and medium (up to 50 cm in height).
  • The shape of the petals and their arrangement can be chamomile-shaped, with a pronounced core (usually of a contrasting color). Double flowers do not have this feature, but they can attract petals of different lengths and configurations.

It is impossible to describe all the varieties of this flower, let alone indicate all possible options colors. "Classic" white chrysanthemums are not inferior in popularity to roses and tulips, and a variety of rainbow mixes will cheer you up in cold weather.

Popular varieties

Indoor chrysanthemum is more compact in size; when forming a bush, it forms attractive spherical trees. In addition to a purely visual effect, this plant is famous for its positive energy and in many beliefs has earned the fame of a family amulet.

The chrysanthemum has the greatest popularity and universal love in oriental cultures, especially for Japan. There, this plant is grown everywhere and is a symbol of wealth, love and well-being. To successfully grow the Japanese version of the lucky horseshoe at home, you must adhere to certain requirements.

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What to look for when buying

Chrysanthemums in the markets are presented in such a quantity that it is not easy to choose a single bush. But try to be very careful, because success directly depends on how picky you are.

Never buy chrysanthemums with fully blooming inflorescences - specimens in which the inflorescences have bloomed no more than half will bloom better and longer.

The bushes should be fully formed, strong, the shoots should be woody from below, and the leaves should be healthy. Please note that yellowing of the foliage, spots on the leaves and shoots are unacceptable.

Light mode for potted chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are crops for which a short daylight hours are enough for abundant flowering. But this does not mean at all that they are content with shaded locations.

During the entire period of active development, including flowering, chrysanthemums need to be provided with the sunniest and brightest locations in which the plants will not suffer from midday rays or will be shaded from them by neighboring potted plants.

In winter, chrysanthemums are kept in dark rooms (with the exception of specimens that continue to bloom, which are transferred to the lightest locations of the rooms and plan to be thrown away after flowering)

Temperature modes

Potted chrysanthemums (both garden and indoor) love coolness, especially during the flowering stage. These are not the most heat-resistant crops that are comfortable only in typical autumn conditions. The higher the air temperature, the faster the inflorescences fade and the less chrysanthemums produce new buds.

That is why even miniature indoor plants are best kept outdoors during flowering. The optimal temperature regime for potted chrysanthemums is from 10-15 to 17-20 degrees Celsius or a little more.

If chrysanthemums during the flowering period are in temperatures above 21-22 degrees, they will not be able to normally lay buds for flowering next year, and even cold wintering will not give the expected effect.

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Landing

What to do with a chrysanthemum in a pot - we'll talk about this a little later. First, let's figure out how to plant it correctly. The material from the mother plant is cut with a sharp knife. You cannot break off the petioles, otherwise they may not be accepted.

A beautiful and lush bush will grow only if it has a sufficiently developed root system. Therefore, at the very beginning, the petioles are planted in a very large container.

Several holes need to be drilled at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Garden soil is poured into it, mixed with some kind of organic fertilizer.

The question of how to plant a chrysanthemum in a pot comes down to, among other things, the correct preparation of the soil. Before backfilling, the soil mixture must be subjected to heat treatment. Chrysanthemum is a rather delicate plant that easily becomes infected with all sorts of viral and fungal diseases.

  • The cut petioles are carefully dropped into the ground.
  • After 20-25 days, roots are formed on them.
  • As soon as this happens, they should be carefully transferred, along with a lump of earth, into a small flower pot.
  • In this case adult plant will take the form of a beautiful lush bouquet.

The soil is poured into a new pot the same. That is, they mix nutrient soil with organic fertilizer. Fertilized peat can also be used.

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Watering

The purchased chrysanthemum must be watered carefully. On the one hand, this plant is quite demanding for watering. On the other hand, excess moisture can cause root rot or the development of fungal diseases.

To prevent this from happening, you need to ensure good drainage: a hole must be provided in the pot, and a layer of gravel or moss is arranged at the bottom. This will help remove any excess moisture from the pot.

  • On average, chrysanthemum is watered no more than 2 times a week. You just need to make sure that the earthen lump does not dry out.
  • Spraying the leaves is important and helps prevent dehydration.
  • Dried leaves must be removed in a timely manner. And healthy leaves are regularly cleaned of dust.

You cannot use ordinary tap water for irrigation. You need to pass it through a filter and stand for a couple of days. The water should not be cold, otherwise the plant is threatened with disease.

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Air humidity

Chrysanthemum prefers high humidity. Therefore, the plant should be regularly sprayed. The frequency of spraying is one (two) times a day. If the grower simply does not have a spray bottle, then you can simply put a saucer or a jar of water next to the home plantings.

Dust and dirt protection

Chrysanthemum leaves should be regularly wiped from dust and other dirt accumulated on them. This can be done with an ordinary damp cloth. Some gardeners place the pot in the tub and gently wash away the accumulated dust with a shower head.

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Chrysanthemum potted care, fertilization

Fertilization is a must, because chrysanthemum requires a lot of nutrients for its development. Use different supplements at different times of the year. They can be divided into:

  • nitrogen;
  • potassium;
  • phosphoric.

Nitrogen fertilizers are used during the active growth of the flower, that is, in the spring. These additives are essential for proper shoot formation and active leaf growth.

In the summer, they stop fertilizing chrysanthemums with nitrogen fertilizing, since at this time the active growth of the plant stops and preparation for flowering begins.

In mid-August, start giving potassium supplements with some phosphorus. Closer to October, everything should be the other way around: more phosphorus with the addition of potassium. The plant needs these additives for lush flowering and successful wintering.

Chrysanthemum in a pot, care after flowering

How to care for indoor potted chrysanthemums after flowering? When all the buds are dry, they should be removed. Also cut off any dry or damaged branches.

  • After that, gradually reduce the watering and place the flower in the place where it will winter.
  • If you want to achieve double flowering, then think about it in advance.
  • In any case, you will have to organize the resting conditions in which the plant will gain strength.

After that, you can put the flower in warmth ahead of time, increase watering, and also adjust the changes in daylight hours. All these measures can make the chrysanthemum bloom in late February and early March.

Chrysanthemum in a pot: home care in winter

How to care for a potted chrysanthemum in winter time of the year? At this time, the chrysanthemum does not need to be watered heavily, and fertilization is absolutely impossible. They put the flower in a room with an air temperature of no more than 5 degrees. Such conditions can be in an unheated closet or cellar.

Some growers believe that indoor chrysanthemums need to be cut for the winter, as they do in relation to garden flower... But many experts consider this to be an unnecessary measure, since frosts and other vicissitudes do not threaten the indoor flower, so you should not be afraid that tall branches will take away too much strength from the flower.

Before wintering, it is advisable to treat the chrysanthemum with antimicrobial agents. They will exclude the possibility of infection of the flower with pests, which, unlike plants, do not sleep in winter.

How to care for a home potted chrysanthemum in early spring?

In spring, plants begin to wake up and grow actively. Potted chrysanthemums also do this, how to care for them at this time? First of all, you should increase the watering of the flower, since it needs moisture for growth. In this case, you should not make a swamp in a flowerpot. Abundant watering should not turn into a "bay".

Next, you should consider replanting the plant. This work is usually done in the spring. If the plant is young, then you should pick up a flowerpot for it larger than the previous one. For an adult plant, you can leave the same container.

Prepare the soil for the chrysanthemum yourself, since store substrates are universal and are rarely suitable for this particular flower. To prepare the soil, take:

  • universal soil;
  • peat;
  • perlite;
  • sand.

Mix all the ingredients so that the soil is loose but still nutritious. Pour it into a pot on top of the drainage that should be required. It eliminates the possibility of water stagnation in the flowerpot.

Transplant chrysanthemum better method transshipment. So its roots are less injured. After transplanting, the plant is watered a little and placed in a well-lightened place.

In the first month after transplanting, fertilizers do not need to be applied. They will only harm an unrooted plant. But in a month you can already water the chrysanthemum with nitrogen fertilizers. They are bred according to the instructions, which are necessarily given with the drug.

When the chrysanthemum takes root and grows a little, you need to cut off the tops of its branches. This is called "pinching" and is done to get the plant to sprout lateral shoots. Thus, a lush bush will form. By the fall, it will be covered with color and will look very beautiful. You can pinch flowers twice: in early fall and early summer. Then they begin to prepare the chrysanthemum for flowering.

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How to stimulate chrysanthemum flowering

If a flower lover receives a gift from friends, then it is, most often, a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care is focused on prolonging flowering. Chrysanthemums are perennials and can bloom for several years in a row if they accumulate good energy reserves. A dormant period with sufficient light, water and fertilizer will increase the plant's ability to produce new buds.

An uncomplicated technique helps stimulate the plant to long and profuse flowering. Here are the basic tricks:

  • it is necessary to control the light regime of the chrysanthemum. Good vegetative growth assumes natural conditions, that is, 9-10 hours of darkness. Draping the plant with black fabric creates the illusion of "night" in city apartments, where electricity is often turned on;
  • water occasionally and abundantly. The soil should be moist, but not soggy;
  • before flowering, organize a light regime according to the standard 12 hours of darkness - 12 hours of light;
  • provide the plant with a cool atmosphere during the budding period. Household chrysanthemums in pots need a temperature of 13 - 16 ° C for flower formation;
  • do not forget to pinch the stems;
  • remove all small buds and flower buds, leaving only large ones, one bud on each stem in the center. This should be done when the buds are still small;
  • when the flowers open as much as possible, choose the most optimal light position for the pot. The entire flowering period should be well watered with chrysanthemum. This way the flowers will last longer;
  • replanting the chrysanthemum in a larger pot will give room to the roots. The plant will be able to accumulate more nutrients and moisture, which allows for intense flowering. The optimum pot size is 1.8 liters.
The entire flowering period needs to be well watered with chrysanthemum.

In the spring, as soon as the chrysanthemum releases green shoots, you need to change the soil in the pot. For this, the plant is carefully taken out, clean soil is laid in the pot, chrysanthemum is placed in it and watered. In the same period, it is advisable to feed the chrysanthemum with fertilizer. It is better to use nitrogen agents before flowering, and nitrate agents at the time of flowering.

If you have complete information on how to care for a potted chrysanthemum, the plant will develop normally, and please the owner with luxurious flowers for several years in a row.

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How to transplant chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemumsthat are presented to us in bouquets are very easy to root. The desire to plant and grow this miracle on your windowsill or on the site is commendable, but here it is important to observe correct agricultural technology.

Instructions

  1. If the chrysanthemum is already in your pot, then transplanting into an open ground will allow it to take its natural size and shape. Preparation for transplanting a chrysanthemum should begin with its flowering. After flowering, the chrysanthemum should cut off all shoots longer than 10 cm and leave only short petioles. The pot with the plant for the winter should be removed to a cool room with a temperature of 2-4 ° C.
  2. With the onset of spring, new shoots begin to grow and are transferred to a warm room. Compliance with the alternation of temperatures for the chrysanthemum is mandatory, otherwise it will not bloom. This time is optimal for replanting the bush in fresh soil in a pot or in a flower bed, as well as for rooting shoots. To root flowers from a bouquet, cuttings that have given roots in water should be cut from the top, leaving 10 cm and planted in a pot.
  3. Young plants should be transplanted every year in the spring, older ones every two years, while it is better to divide the bushes during transplantation. Fresh soil for a bush, the main thing should not be acidic, otherwise, chrysanthemums are not particularly demanding on soils. Add some sand and humus to your regular garden soil. During transplantation, the tops of young shoots are pinched, and the lignified ones are cut off so that the bush is more branched and even.
  4. Before watering, a clod of earth should be moistened, remove all dried branches and roots. Pour drainage on the bottom of the pot, insert the bush in the center and sprinkle it with new earth on all sides. In order not to transplant the chrysanthemum into a larger pot, divide the bush and plant part of the bush back, of course, adding fresh soil. After the bushes, water and keep the soil moist, as the chrysanthemum loves water.

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Pruning

Chrysanthemum pruning is done twice a year. This is done in spring and summer in order to form a beautiful crown of the bush. The first pruning is done in the spring after planting or transplanting a flower. The growing point at the top of the shoots is removed from the plant.

  • Side shoots immediately begin to actively grow.
  • Chrysanthemum turns into a lush dense bush before our eyes.
  • Somewhere, after a month, this procedure is repeated.
  • If you have a spherical variety of chrysanthemums, then pinching it is not necessary.
  • A lush bush in the shape of a dome is a varietal feature of these types of chrysanthemums.

Secondarily, the chrysanthemum is cut in the fall, after flowering. Dry, diseased and rotten shoots are cut off first to keep the rest of the bush healthy. The rest of the shoots are also shortened, since the plant will winter in Spartan conditions - without watering, fertilizing and light. So it will be easier for him to survive during hibernation.

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Potted chrysanthemum propagation

Chrysanthemum reproduces in 3 ways:

  1. By cuttings.
  2. By dividing the bush.
  3. Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a rest period, one month before grafting, transfer the container with chrysanthemum to a lighted warm place (from + 10 ° to + 12 °).

When 4-6 leaves are formed on the shoots, you can start grafting:

  1. It is better to take a high capacity, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered for the first time.
  2. Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1: 2: 0.5, given that the top layer of sand should be 2-3 cm.Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1: 1.
  3. Put drainage on the bottom of the container - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour soil, on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Water.
  4. Cut off the tops of the stems 10 cm high, make the lower cut under the internode. Remove the lower leaves.
  5. Dip the cutting into a growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings 1.5-2 cm into the moistened sand at an angle of 45 ° with an interval of 5 cm between them.
  6. Cover the container with glass or foil and place the container with cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from + 17 ° to + 20 °).
  7. Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily with a spray bottle.
  8. Cuttings take root from 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that has appeared on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Division of the bush

A simple and more reliable way to reproduce chrysanthemums is to divide the bush during a period of intensive shoot growth.

Up to 6 divisions are obtained from one bush of overwintered plants:

  1. Water the bush before dividing.
  2. Pour drainage and a mixture of garden and turf soil, sand and humus into a new pot. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
  3. Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that a root is preserved on each part to be separated.
  4. Put the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with earth. Do not compact the ground.
  5. After transplanting, water the shoots gently, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally blur the soil.
  6. Place the container with shoots in a bright, warm (but not more than + 20 °) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the delenki will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Sowing time is determined by the time of the beginning of flowering:

  1. Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
  2. Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus into the container, 2: 0.5: 1.
  3. Moisten the substrate and spread the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, since they need light for germination. Or sprinkle with a thin layer of light soil.
  4. Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and put it in a bright room (t from + 10 ° to + 15 °).
  5. Moisten the soil with a spray bottle only.
  6. Seedlings will appear in 7-12 days. Remove the shelter.
  7. After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, the plant dives with an interval of 5-10 cm between them.

A month and a half before the flowering of the chrysanthemum, plant it in a permanent place.

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Diseases and pests

Chrysanthemum is a late-flowering perennial characterized by high immunity to diseases and pests. However, she can also get sick.

In order not to put flowers at risk, you must carefully monitor their condition and take preventive measures in a timely manner. And if it was not possible to avoid the disease, then it is important to know which methods of struggle are most effective.

Chrysanthemum fungal diseases

Chrysanthemum fungal infections are most often caused by poor air circulation, high soil acidity, excess nitrogen fertilizers and high temperatures.

Leaf spot, or septoria, chrysanthemum

The disease manifests itself in the form of spots on the leaves, which at first have yellow, and then gradually turn dark brown and black (and can grow in size). The lower leaves are primarily infected.

Prevention and treatment

  1. The first step is to cut and destroy the affected leaves.
  2. In order to prevent it, it is necessary to regularly remove and destroy the remains of dead plants in the garden.
  3. If the disease spreads, it is worth using fungicides.

Rust

The infection manifests itself in the form of pale areas on the surface of the leaves, as well as powdery orange spots on the underside of the leaves. Severely affected plants are weakened and no longer bloom properly.

Prevention and treatment

  1. Immediate removal of affected leaves.
  2. Thinning shrubs for better ventilation.
  3. When watering, avoid getting moisture on the plants.
  4. If the disease has spread seriously, you need to switch to using fungicides.

Withering chrysanthemum leaves

The first symptoms of fusarium wilting are yellowing and browning of the leaves. Infected plants are stunted and often unable to flower. The fungus enters plants from the soil through the roots and blocks the flow of water into the chrysanthemum tissue.

Prevention and treatment

  1. Removal and destruction of all infected plant parts.
  2. Planting wilt-resistant varieties.
  3. If the soil already contains the wilting fungus Fusarium, then the soil pH should be raised to 6.5 - 7.0.

Powdery mildew

The leaves are covered with a whitish ash-gray powdery bloom. Spores of the fungus love a humid atmosphere, this is favorable for their growth and reproduction.

Prevention and treatment

  1. Removal of the affected plant material.
  2. Use of fungicides.

To fight fungal infections, copper oxychloride and Bordeaux liquid, Fundazol, and 1% colloidal sulfur are most often used.

Chrysanthemum viral diseases

Of all viral diseases for chrysanthemum, it is most terrible mosaic.

Plants infected with the virus have a stunted appearance and yellowed foliage. Infected chrysanthemums are stunted and form small flowers.

Prevention

  1. Removal and destruction of affected plants.
  2. Timely weed control.

Chrysanthemum pests

Leaf nematode

Nematodes are non-segmented roundworms that are barely visible to the naked eye. They hibernate in soil or in contaminated plant material.

Chrysanthemums affected by a nematode are covered with yellow-brown spots. The pest first damages the lower leaves and gradually spreads up the stem. The yellow-brown spots on the leaves eventually merge and cover the entire leaf, which dies, dries up and falls off

Control measures

  1. Removal of contaminated plant material along with the surrounding soil.
  2. In the spring, the spread of nematodes will prevent mulching.
  3. When watering, avoid getting water on the leaves.
  4. Leafy sprays containing insecticidal soaps are quite effective.

Aphids and spider mites

These insidious insects harm many types of indoor and garden flowers.

Aphids feed on the sap of young plant tissues, affecting the underside of leaves, buds and flowers. The massive spread of the pest can lead to the death of chrysanthemums.

The spider mite spreads in hot and dry weather, sucking out the juice from the plants, as a result of which the chrysanthemum dries up, the flowers become discolored, the leaves fall off.

Control measures

  1. Spider mites and aphids can be removed from the surface of plants with a strong jet of water during watering.
  2. Effective use of insecticides and copper-soap solution (20 g copper sulfate and 200 g of green soap per 10 liters of water).

Now you know how to protect chrysanthemums from dangerous diseases and pests. Don't forget to take proper care of your plants - and they will certainly make your flower garden attractive.

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The queen of autumn - chrysanthemum (in myths and legends)

Many legends are dedicated to this wonderful flower. One of them says that the evil dragon decided to steal the Sun from people; but grabbing it, the dragon severely burned its paws. Out of anger, the dragon began to tear and trample the fireball. The sun sparks that fell to the Earth turned into white chrysanthemums ...

Chrysanthemum flowers seem to combine the light cold of winter and the warm breath of summer. She is rightfully considered the queen of autumn. This unpretentious autumn flower is of truly royal origin.

After all, once in the East, luxurious feasts were held in his honor, the image of a chrysanthemum served as a symbol of nobility, happiness and was considered sacred. Many poems, myths and legends are dedicated to him. Today, the oriental beauty has no less admirers than the recognized queens - roses and orchids.

Flower history

It is not known exactly how ancient the history of this flower is, but archaeologists found images of chrysanthemums on fragments of marble and pottery, in the ornaments of ancient structures, in patterns of oriental porcelain and even on ancient coins.

  • Some argue that the birthplace of the flower is Japan, others say that China, and others that East Asia.
  • In Japan, the homeland of the chrysanthemum, its image is included in the national emblem, it is a symbol of the sun.
  • The Order of the Chrysanthemum is the highest award of this country.

The name of the flower, which comes from the Greek words "chrysos" - golden and "antemos" - a flower (golden flower) is not accidental, the ancestors of chrysanthemums were exclusively yellow.

In Japanese it is called "kiku" - the sun. On the day of "kiku" in the imperial palace, the courtiers admired flowers, drank special chrysanthemum wine, listened to music and wrote poetry.

The chrysanthemum was considered a symbol of high status. Only the emperor and his family members had the right to wear clothes made of fabric with a pattern of chrysanthemums. Violation of the law was punishable by death. In the 18th century, the plant was brought to France and it conquered all of Europe.

Chrysanthemum in the east

Every year in Japan, colorful chrysanthemum festivals are held, where historical clothes made of chrysanthemum flowers are put on dolls of human height. On this day, the Japanese drink sake with the petals of this wonderful flower - a symbol of happiness and longevity. The participants of the holiday pass each other cups with a drink, wishing them a long and happy life.

We also respect this flower in China, which is also considered the birthplace of chrysanthemum. Here he personifies loyalty. Legend has it that in the old days, when China was ruled by a cruel emperor, there was a rumor that a chrysanthemum was growing on a certain island, from the juice of which you could make a life elixir.

But only a person with a pure heart should pick a flower, otherwise the plant will lose its miraculous power. 300 boys and girls were sent to the island. It is only unknown whether they found that plant or not. No one returned, the Mikado died, and the young people founded a new state on that island - Japan.

Legends

Chrysanthemum in China and Japan is dedicated to the 9th day of the 9th month, and a flower plucked on this day is endowed with magical powers. In Vietnam, chrysanthemums represent spiritual purity and clarity of mind. In Italy, chrysanthemum is a symbol of love; a symbol of deep silent sadness; death symbol.

  • In England, chrysanthemums are not so much flowers for bouquets as funeral flowers. In Europe, white chrysanthemums are considered funeral flowers and a symbol of deep sadness. Wreaths from them are laid on the graves in France.
  • Perhaps that is why there is a sad legend about their origin. “The poor woman's son has died. She decorated her dear grave with wildflowers gathered along the way until the cold came. Then she remembered a bouquet of artificial flowers, which her mother bequeathed as a guarantee of happiness.
  • She put this bouquet on the grave, watered it with tears, prayed, and when she raised her head, she saw a miracle: the whole grave was covered with living chrysanthemums. Their bitter smell seemed to indicate that they are dedicated to sorrow. "

Chrysanthemum in Europe

The chrysanthemum appeared in Europe in 1676. It was brought from Japan to England and the Dutchman Reed did it. However, the French believe that chrysanthemums first appeared in Marseille in 1789 and were brought by the French traveler Pierre Blanquire.

  • However, the plants they brought looked like daisies and did not make much of an impression.
  • Only after 1829, when the French gardener Berne, as a result of experiments with sowing chrysanthemum seeds, received beautiful varieties, did the public become interested in them.
  • Over time, this flower could be seen in almost every English garden - chrysanthemums perfectly tolerated English fogs and bloomed even before the onset of light frosts.
  • During the celebration of Schiller's birthday in 1859, the bust of the writer was surrounded by thousands of chrysanthemums, the most varied in color and shape that only existed then.

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Superstition and chrysanthemum.

Chrysanthemum balances the energy of logic and intuition, reason, will and feelings. Fills with peaceful calm and self-confidence.

Protects from unnecessary hesitation and doubt. Develops confidence and the missing qualities of the sex: in men - strength of mind, in women - tenderness and charm. Brings order to thoughts and emotions. Helps to feel like a real man or a real woman and change sexual orientation. Develops tolerance and friendliness. For public places. For active, active, creative individuals. Helps strong personalities get along with each other.

Protects against unwanted changes in well-being. Brings balance to the nervous system, kidneys, cardiovascular system.

The ancient Chinese claimed that chrysanthemum has the miraculous property of prolonging human life. According to an ancient legend, a certain Taoist monk lived for about 700 years, and only because he drank dew from chrysanthemum flowers in the morning. Maybe if we follow his example, then we will be able to preserve our youth?

Chrysanthemum flower petals are very different: white, pink, golden yellow. They have one thing in common - they are all rich in minerals, so necessary for the normal functioning of the human body. It should be borne in mind that flowers are odorless healing properties do not possess.

Fragrant petals of chrysanthemum flowers must be added to traditional green tea. It is believed to be extremely beneficial for any infectious disease... Ancient Chinese doctors recommended this tea in case of high temperature. They assured that it improves eyesight, removes toxins from the body, and is good for the liver.

Overheating, colds, dizziness, unstable pressure - all these diseases, they claim, can be easily cured with the help of chrysanthemum flower petals. This can be believed, can be treated with a fair amount of skepticism. However, even in our time, traditional healers for kidney failure are advised to eat ice cream, in which they put several fresh chrysanthemum petals.

Today, flower shops sell a variety of flowering plants, among which many of the favorite indoor chrysanthemums can be distinguished. However, there is often a situation when the purchased flower at home fades after a while and does not want to bloom anymore. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot, when and how to transplant and prune it.

Before buying a flower in a store, you should carefully examine it. The bush should look healthy and strong, with green leaves without any spots. It is best to choose a chrysanthemum with buds so that it can bloom for a long time at home. You should carefully examine the leaves, which should not be of any pests.

A new plant needs to adapt to new conditions, so the bush is placed in a well-lit place, but where there is no direct sunlight. Water the flower as needed.

Attention! If the buds of a recently purchased chrysanthemum begin to fall or dry out, the flower gets used to the new conditions.

After about two weeks, when the plant adapts, it will need to be transplanted into new soil, since flowers are sold in peat in stores. If there are flowers on the bush, the transplant can be postponed until the end of flowering.

How to transplant chrysanthemum

A newly purchased flower should be transplanted no earlier than two weeks later, and then young plants are transplanted every year, and adult bushes about once every three years.

When asked when to transplant chrysanthemum, one can answer that it is best in spring. However, if the bush has grown over the summer, it can be transplanted in the fall after flowering.

To transplant chrysanthemums you will need:

  • a new pot is 2-3 cm longer than the previous one in length and in diameter;
  • neutral soil (acidic soil will not work);
  • drainage.

Potting soil can be purchased at the store or mixed with the following ingredients:

  • garden land - 4 parts;
  • sand - 1 part;
  • humus - 1 part;
  • sod land - 4 parts.

Attention! Before planting a flower, the soil should be disinfected, for which it can be spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water. When the soil dries up, it is used for transplanting.

At the bottom of the new pot, first a layer of drainage is poured, then a small layer of nutrient mixture. In order for the plants to transfer the transplant better and not get stress, it is recommended to transfer them from their pot to the pot:

  • water the day before transplanting;
  • remove from the container along with a lump of earth;
  • put in a new pot on a layer of soil;
  • pour soil around and on top of the roots.

The transplanted flower is well watered and put in the shade for several days. Even flowering chrysanthemums can be transplanted by transshipment.

Experienced flower growers advise adding quite a bit of bird droppings to the soil in the spring when transplanting room chrysanthemums. In this case, many flowers will form on the bush in summer, and the flowering will be abundant.

Chrysanthemum care at home

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot will not take much time. However, in order for an indoor flower to please with its flowering, you must follow some rules.

Temperature and humidity

The optimum temperature for growing chrysanthemums in pots is within +20 degrees.

In order for the chrysanthemums to bloom next season, in winter they are kept at a temperature of about + 3 ... + 7 degrees. These flowers need a dormant period, during which new buds will be tied on them.

Therefore, if you have a question - why does not chrysanthemum bloom, remember if your flowers had a dormant period in winter. At room temperature in winter, all the strength of the plant will go to growth, and almost no buds will form.

Almost any air humidity is suitable for chrysanthemums, however, in winter, when the batteries are running, the leaves of plants can dry out. In this case, it is recommended to spray the foliage with water at room temperature.

Watering chrysanthemums

When caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot during a period of active growth, it is necessary to ensure that the earthy ball does not dry out. Water the flowers about 2 times a week with settled water, then pouring excess water from the trays. If the apartment is cool, one watering a week may be enough for the plants. The soil in the pot should not be too damp all the time.

Lighting

Like all flowering plants, chrysanthemums love good lighting, and will bloom poorly if there is a lack of light. However, it is undesirable to place them on the southern windowsill with direct sunlight. Chrysanthemums will bloom best near windows facing east or west.

Chrysanthemum feeding


Plants that have just been transplanted into the nutrient mixture do not need feeding for a month. Adult chrysanthemums, in which the soil has been renewed for a long time, after a dormant period and before the beginning of budding, are fed:

  1. Once every 5 days, organic matter in the form of a mullein solution, half a liter of which is diluted in 5 liters of water.
  2. Once every 10 days, chrysanthemums need complex mineral fertilizers for flowering. They should include potassium, phosphorus and as little nitrogen as possible. If nitrogen predominates, foliage will begin to grow well on the bushes, and there will be almost no flowering.
  3. You can accelerate flowering with the help of potassium Monophoskat fertilizer, one part of which is diluted in 10 parts of water.

Bush formation

Many growers ask why the chrysanthemum is stretched out. Perhaps the flower lacks lighting or the chrysanthemum bush has not formed.

In order for the bush to be lush and beautiful, during the period of active growth, yellowed or withered leaves and flowers should be cut off from it. It is also imperative to cut and pinch the shoots, as a result of which the plant will grow in width and not stretch out.

Chrysanthemum care after flowering

As we wrote above, the chrysanthemum needs a rest period. To do this, in the winter it is kept in a cool room right in a pot. You can put a flower pot on an insulated loggia, where the air temperature in winter will be within +2 degrees.

Before removing the bush for the winter, the shoots are cut off. In the spring, as soon as new shoots begin to appear on the plants, they are brought into the apartment, transplanted and placed in the same place where the chrysanthemum grew last year.

Attention! In the summer, indoor chrysanthemums can be planted in a flower garden in the country. In the fall, before the onset of frost, the flowers are dug up, planted again in pots and brought into the house. However, in the open field, flowers are often affected by pests and diseases, therefore, before bringing them into an apartment, inspect and, if necessary, treat the bushes with special preparations.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums

The easiest way to propagate plants is when transplanting, simply by dividing the bush and planting the divisions in new pots. If the roots are damaged during division, they are sprinkled with crushed coal before planting.

Chrysanthemum propagation by cuttings

For rooting, they also take green cuttings about 10 cm long. They can be rooted in water or immediately in the soil. The lower leaves must be cut off from the cuttings and placed in a container with water or in moist soil.

If a chrysanthemum stalk takes root in water, it is planted in a pot when roots from 4 cm long are formed on it.

If the stalk takes root immediately in the soil, it is covered from above with a transparent cap ( glass jar or package). Every day, the shelter is removed to ventilate the scion and check the moisture content of the soil. The fact that the stalk is rooted can be recognized by the restored leaf turgor. After that, the bag or jar can be removed.

To stimulate the growth of shoots in cuttings growing in a pot, pinch the top.

As you can see, caring for a room chrysanthemum at home is pretty simple. The main thing is to follow all the rules, and the plant will delight with its beautiful flowering.

Chrysanthemums are distinguished by their long, lush flowering. Specially bred varieties can be grown not only in the garden, but also on the windowsill of any apartment. A variety of colors allow you to create original compositions or choose a plant for the interior.

If you plant a flower from the garden in a pot, then it will soon stretch out and turn into an unattractive bush. Therefore, the so-called home chrysanthemum is chosen for the windowsill: these varieties are adapted to room conditions.

The common appearance of chrysanthemums in a pot is their compact size. The height of individual shoots depends on the variety and reaches an average of 20–30 cm. The leaves are light green, the edges are notched or serrated. There are villi on the lower surface of the leaf plates, which make it appear gray.

At the tops of the shoots, basket-shaped inflorescences are formed. Chrysanthemum belongs to the Asteraceae family, therefore each bud consists of hundreds of small petals and a pronounced core. Their size depends on the species and is subdivided into small, medium or large-flowered.

Color formation occurs at the same time as in garden species - by August or September. But the flowering period due to indoor conditions is longer - up to December.

The roots form an extensive network that grows mainly parallel to the surface of the earth.

Potted Chrysanthemum Varieties

Potted chrysanthemum can be only 4 types. From them, breeders deduce many varieties of various colors.

Indian chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum indicum)

The most popular type for indoor cultivation (pictured). The bush reaches a height of 20 to 60 cm, flowers are large (up to 15 cm in diameter). When kept, it is sensitive to lack of light and moisture. In summer, it responds favorably to the content in the fresh air, but the slightest frost will immediately lead to the death of the plant.

Among the varieties of Indian chrysanthemum, the following are popular:

  • Anastasia. The petals of the flower are very narrow and elongated, and the color is found as traditional white, lilac or pink, and the original light green or acid yellow.
  • Artist. Received this name, probably for the dual color: the longitudinal stripes of white and pink alternate on each petal. The yellow core contrasts brightly with the pastel color of the bud.
  • Vimini. It stands out from the variety of chrysanthemums with a simple flower shape, in which the petals are arranged in one row around the core. The coloration resembles a sunflower: yellow or orange periphery around the brown center.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry (Chrysanthemum morifolium)

The series of varieties of this species differ not only in the shape and color of flowers, but also in the size of the bush itself. The gaining popularity of the Cascade series forms hanging shoots like ampelous plants, which allows you to grow spectacular chrysanthemums in a flower pot or on a balcony.

The Charm series of Chinese chrysanthemums grows up to half a meter and are grouped by the color of semi-double flowers.

Korean (Chrysanthemum koreanum)

It differs from other species in low shoots (no more than 40 cm) and small flowers. Korean chrysanthemum should be chosen for growing on balconies in cold regions, since a slight frost at the end of summer will not destroy the plant.

Orange has a rich orange petals and yellow center.

The Korean chrysanthemum is called Lipstick in red and Umka in white. Popular varieties are Navare, Lilac, Koreyanka.

Shrub or daisy (Chrysanthemum frutescens)

The most closely related species to garden chrysanthemums. The height of the bush can reach a meter, and the flowers are formed by one row of petals like a daisy or chamomile.

Chrysanthemum care at home

When a potted chrysanthemum is purchased, home care according to the rules will ensure long flowering and beauty of the plant.

Temperature regime

For the first time, a flower enters the house from a store from autumn to the beginning of winter, that is, at the peak of flowering. During transportation, sudden changes in temperature must not be allowed, especially when negative indicators thermometer on the street. This can lead to frostbite of delicate flowers and leaves up to the complete death of the plant.

The first 1-2 weeks for adaptation, a cool temperature is provided within 15… 16 ° С. Then the remaining flowering time of indoor chrysanthemum is kept at 19 ... 21 ° С. A cooler temperature is comfortable for her, and if the room is above 25 ° C, then the plant will quickly shed flowers, diseases will begin to appear.

In the greenhouses of flower shops, chrysanthemums are kept at 15 ... 17 ° С all the time of flowering, which ensures the blooming of a large number of buds and the preservation of decorative attractiveness for more than a month.

Lighting

Optimal lighting for chrysanthemum will be on the east or west windowsill. In the north, the light will not be enough, and in the south, the sun's rays will provoke burns and wilting of leaves. In summer, if possible, they take out the pot to the balcony or plant the chrysanthemum in open ground.

Watering and feeding

Important! Especially in the flowering phase, the soil must not completely dry out. This will immediately manifest itself as wilting of the leaves and greatly accelerate the flowering.

Excess water from the pan is immediately drained to prevent root rot.

Chrysanthemum food is needed to the same extent as water. Without fertilization, the leaves become pale, the stems become thinner and elongated, and the flowers do not form. Mineral complexes with a predominance of nitrogen have a beneficial effect on the growth of green mass. It is recommended to feed them from the beginning of spring to summer twice a month.

Important! In order not to burn the roots, fertilizers are applied to moist soil. To do this, in the evening the plant is watered with plain water, and in the morning (after about 12 hours) - with feeding.

Before flowering begins, complex mineral fertilizers with phosphorus, iron and potassium are needed at the same frequency. The plant is watered weekly with mullein solution (1:10) or similar fertilizers. Top dressing is completely stopped during the rest period.

Pruning and shaping the bush

Pinching or pruning the main stem are standard ways to form a chrysanthemum bush. After the start of spring growth, the main trunk should be cut with a sharp knife at a height of 10-15 cm. This will allow side shoots to start growing, each of which will pick up color in summer.

In a month, it will be possible to cut off secondary shoots, modeling a lush bush.

The next pruning is done after flowering. Dry branches are completely cut off, dense internal shoots are thinned out. Healthy and strong branches are shortened to 7-10 cm.

Plant transplant

The first transplant after purchase is required in nutritious soil, since the store substrate is not suitable for long-term flower maintenance... The preferred way to transplant a chrysanthemum from a pot to a pot is to transfer:

  1. A new pot is prepared 2-3 cm wider than the previous one in width and height.
  2. The bottom with drainage holes must be covered with a layer of pebbles or expanded clay by 2 cm.
  3. On top you need to pour a little new substrate, bought specifically for chrysanthemums or prepared yourself (leafy earth, humus and peat).
  4. The pot with chrysanthemum is watered, turned over (the flower must be held by the main stem), an earthen lump is shaken out.
  5. The roots must be carefully examined for the presence of diseases, brushing off the excess substrate around them.
  6. Damage is cut and covered with charcoal powder.
  7. The treated plant is placed in the center of a new flowerpot and covered with fertile soil from the sides and top.
  8. The transplanted chrysanthemum is watered and stored in a cool, dark place for a week.

After the transplant, feeding begins in a month. A young shrub needs soil renewal and an increase in the pot annually in early spring. After reaching 5 years of age, a transplant is required once every 3 years.

Features of care after flowering

After the chrysanthemum has faded, what to do with the plant to preserve it for the next year? It is necessary to bring the conditions of detention closer to natural ones by arranging wintering:

  1. Branches with dried flowers are cut at a distance of 5–10 cm from the roots. On the remaining shoots, you need to keep 2-3 leaf axils, from which new branches will begin to grow in spring.
  2. Watering is reduced to 1 time per week.
  3. All feeding stops.
  4. The flower pot is transferred to a cool place without light with a temperature of about 6 ° C.

Important!Wintering is required for full growth of the chrysanthemum.

If there is no basement or balcony, the pot is wrapped in a bag and put into the refrigerator. In extreme cases, you need to cut off the shoots above and leave the chrysanthemum on the window. But in such a situation, there is a great risk of the death of the flower, since without a cooling period the chrysanthemum will not gain strength for the next growing season.

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Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home

Having created optimal conditions for keeping, the florist gets a lush bush suitable for reproduction. The procedure is carried out in one of 3 possible ways.

Growing from seeds is intended for growing new varieties of chrysanthemums. The planting material purchased in the store is planted in a mixture of universal soil, peat and sand.

Advice! In order for the planted seeds to sprout, the soil is pre-disinfected in the oven or spilled with a hot solution of purple potassium permanganate.

The seeds are placed on top of the soil, pressed into the depth of 0.5 cm and moistened with a spray bottle. The container on top must be closed with foil or glass, opening it daily for ventilation.

Seedlings appear in a couple of weeks. The pot is placed in a bright place with a day length of at least 10 hours. When 4 leaves appear on the sprouts, they are seated in separate containers with soil as for adult chrysanthemums.

It is convenient to propagate cuttings after autumn pruning. The branches are cut 10 cm apart and the leaves are freed in the lower half. The cuttings are placed in a glass of water until the roots form about 5 cm, after which they can be planted in the ground.

The division of the bush is carried out at the next spring transplant. In this way, only a healthy plant multiplies, since the procedure causes severe stress in chrysanthemums:

  1. The flower needs to be removed from the pot and the roots rinsed from the old soil under the tap.
  2. With a clean pruner or knife, the bush is cut so that each part has several shoots and healthy roots.
  3. The cut is sprinkled with charcoal powder, the bush is planted in separate pots.

After the procedure, it is better to remove the chrysanthemum in a dark and cool place for a week.

The main problems in growing

If a grower knows exactly how to care for a chrysanthemum, then problems are unlikely. Therefore, the cause of any trouble must be sought in containment mode.

Fungal diseases

Gray rot is manifested by a coating that corrodes stems and leaves. It develops due to excess moisture, therefore, it is necessary, after cutting off all infected areas and treating it with a fungicide, to establish an irrigation regime.

Raid white caused by powdery mildew. Treatment is carried out in the same way.

Leaf spot, or septoria

The disease manifests itself dark spots with light rounded edging. With late detection, the entire leaf plate is affected. For treatment, infected leaves are cut off, the whole bush is treated with copper sulfate.

Chrysanthemum pests

Small aphids are visible to the naked eye in the leaf axils. Insects should be removed with a cotton pad dipped in a solution of laundry soap. The plant is then treated with an insecticide.

The main thing is to carry out several treatments in 5-7 days in order to destroy the next generation of pests.

Video about planting and caring for room chrysanthemums:

Luxurious inflorescences in autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from its congeners in the open field in a compact form of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to the lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding to care, grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Compositae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in a pot, care at home will then be much easier. A well-developed indoor plant will continue to bloom on the windowsill. Under favorable conditions, the buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after independent propagation by cuttings or root suckers, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in the store.

Street chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in containers, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and house entrance. After flowering, the stems are cut, the containers with the roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If street chrysanthemum is kept indoors, its leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Potted Chrysanthemum Varieties

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been developed that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. Inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as plants open ground... Varieties are often grouped by origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum indian

In nature, it is relatively low herbaceous plant... The leaves are serrated, green-gray in color. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. Is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on a windowsill and a balcony.

Indian chrysanthemums were crossed with species with white and pink inflorescences. Breeders using chemicals, affecting growth, received compact forms with a height of 20–25 cm. Today there are a large number of different forms and varieties that feel good in the room and are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its rich color and long flowering, which is especially attractive in the cold period.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

  • "Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with many large yellow inflorescences.
  • "Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
  • Morifolium is a variety with large, simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. Leaves are deep green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. On the upper side of the leaf blade, pinpoint glands are noticeable. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums are simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Chrysanthemum care at home

They buy a plant in a flower shop or accept it as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature control

Light affects flowering and opening of buds. The amount of light is suitable that is provided by placing the pot on the windowsill of plastic or wooden windows facing west and east. The rays hit at noon can cause leaf burns, in this situation it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with 6-8 hours of daylight in October or November (depending on the region).

A comfortable temperature for a room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, more demanding in terms of keeping conditions, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in the summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and feeding

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Indoor chrysanthemum prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnant water in a pot can lead to root rot, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

  1. The substrate should not be allowed to dry out.
  2. In autumn and winter, watered once a week in the morning.
  3. Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
  4. In the heat, water is sprayed near indoor plants to reduce the air temperature.
  5. Used for watering and spraying the settled water. If it is hard, then it accumulates on the soil surface white bloom.
  6. Avoid getting drops on flowers.

Abundantly blooming chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Liquid fertilizing is carried out once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. The potted plant is fed about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future you do not regulate the growth of shoots, then several long stems appear, which reduces decorativeness.

  • Pinching rapidly growing shoots is performed. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will need 2 or 3 treatments.
  • Large-flowered hybrids can be formed in the form of a tree by shortening the main shoot and cutting off the lower branches.
  • Pinching buds that begin to wither helps to increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is needed if flowering is delayed. Selectively pinching the tops of the flower stalks will allow the flow of nutrients to the remaining buds.

Plant transplant

Young and old plants need to renew the substrate. They are transferred to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1: 1: 1). You can use ready-made potting soil.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as a loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and soil nutritional value (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplanting, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants with a plastic bag. At first, they provide diffused lighting, do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend pruning the stems, leaving short areas above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed to a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum as it was on the windowsill in the room. The third option: to stimulate the growth of shoots and the formation of a compact bush, pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum in the same season will start up new shoots and bloom.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root suckers (babies). Young plants can be grown from these additional shoots. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the plant depth at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

  1. Young shoots are cut from an adult plant.
  2. Fill transparent plastic container from cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
  3. Cuttings are planted, covered with a lid from the container.
  4. After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seeds. Hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually, during seed propagation of chrysanthemums, varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and disease. Yellowing may be due to a lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of spots of a grayish-yellow or brown color with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is associated with poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the lack of buds and flowers are lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If in the room artificial lighting morning and evening, the biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with an excess of fertilizing and no pruning.

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemum

The plant is prone to rust, powdery mildew, gray and black rot. For these fungal infections, they are treated with fungicides for indoor plants. Chrysanthemum is damaged by aphids, black midges sciarids, soil mites, springtails. The leaves are treated with a solution of the drug Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, the flowers are taken out to the balcony. Window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, the top layer of the soil in the pot is changed to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended to carefully consider the choice of the substrate. Typically, pathogens and plant pests are found in the land brought from the garden and vegetable garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, will delight with flowering for a long time.

Domestic chrysanthemums are very compact and beautiful. They bloom for a long time and do not require complex care. These are cold-loving plants that are not afraid of drafts and frost, but like frequent watering. We will find out how to grow indoor chrysanthemum at home, and how to properly care for it.

Chrysanthemum is an annual or perennial herb native to Asia. It is found naturally in China and Japan. It was there that this flower was first grown in the garden.

Chrysanthemums can be both high (50-60 cm) and low - up to 25-30 cm in height. On bare or pubescent shoots, heavily cut leaves, painted in a light green color, alternately sit.

Chrysanthemums bloom from spring to autumn, forming flowers in the form of small or large baskets. Flowers can be simple, double or semi-double. The color of the petals depends on the type and variety of the plant. There is no smell.

Types and varieties

Despite the prevalence of chrysanthemums, only two of its varieties are suitable for growing at home. These include chrysanthemum:

  • Chinese... A highly branched bush grows up to 25 cm. Flowers can be either simple or semi-double or double. Coloring is different.


  • Indian... It forms a bush up to 25 cm high. It blooms for a very long time and is not at all afraid of the cold.


Indian chrysanthemums are the most common. Look at their photos: their flowers are prettier, more luxuriant and brighter.

Choice of place and conditions of detention

Chrysanthemum is not too demanding on the conditions of detention. In any apartment there is a corner suitable for it in all respects.

Lighting and location


Chrysanthemum is best placed on the eastern, western or northern windowsill. If the house has only southern windows, then you can place the bowl in the back of the room. The flower needs diffused light. The total daylight hours should be approximately 8 hours. Direct sunlight or too long daylight hours can harm the flower.

In winter, the plant does not need additional lighting. In summer, it can be placed on an open balcony or taken out into the street.

Temperature

The optimum air temperature for a room chrysanthemum is + 10 ... + 15 o C. This flower is very fond of cold, and when you move the pot to a warm room, it can drop the buds. Adaptation to high temperatures quite painful, but possible. But even in this case, it is undesirable for the air to warm up more than to + 18 ... + 20 o C. But chrysanthemum tolerates cold and light frosts calmly. Therefore, it can be placed in a corridor, terrace or balcony before the onset of persistent frost.

In winter, when the dormant period begins, the indoor chrysanthemum should be placed in a cool room. It is desirable that the temperature in it does not exceed + 10 ... + 12 o C.

Air and humidity

Chrysanthemum loves moderate humidity of 50-70%. This level of humidity is maintained in the room independently. However, in winter, it can fall due to the constant operation of heating devices. In this case, it is advisable to humidify the air using special humidifiers. It will be good for your health too.

Chrysanthemum responds well to regular spraying of foliage with cool water. Water procedures should be done 1-2 times a week. The flower is not afraid of drafts.

Soil and pot

The soil for chrysanthemums should be loose, well-drained and nutritious. The optimal soil composition for this flower is as follows:

  • peat (1 part);
  • perlite (1 part);
  • washed river sand (1 part);
  • universal soil, bought in a flower shop (3 parts).

It is best to keep the chrysanthemum in a small plastic pot with large drainage holes. The plant feels good in tightness conditions, therefore, there is no need to leave a lot of empty space between the walls of the container and the root system: 2 cm is enough.

Important! Indoor chrysanthemums require good drainage. Therefore, a 2-cm layer of pebbles, expanded clay or vermiculite must be laid on the bottom of the pot.

Care


Caring for a room chrysanthemum is very simple. Even a novice florist can handle it. Therefore, the potted chrysanthemum is one of best colors to obtain the content of indoor plants.

Watering

The soil in pots of chrysanthemums should always be slightly damp. These flowers cannot stand excessive dryness. But it is also impossible to overdo it with watering. In summer it is best to moisten the soil 3-4 times a week, and in winter - up to 2 times. Spraying in the warm season should be done more often than in the cold. For watering and spraying, you need to take settled water at room temperature or slightly cool.

Top dressing

Since chrysanthemum grows in cramped conditions, there is not very much soil in the pot, and the green mass of the plant increases very quickly, the soil is depleted instantly. Therefore, the flower needs to be fed often, even more often than other indoor flowers. The optimal frequency of feeding is once a week. This should be done with special fertilizers for flowering plants (such are the brands Agricola, Kemir, Zdraven). 1 g of fertilizer should be diluted in 1 liter of water and the soil should be moistened with the resulting solution. During the rest period, feeding can be reduced to 1 time in 2-3 weeks.

Loosening, mulching

It is important to maintain good water and air permeability of the soil. Therefore, the soil must be loosened when a dense crust forms on its surface.

Pinching, pinching, pruning

Pruning for chrysanthemums is optional, but it helps form a lush, compact and tidy bush. Therefore, it is advisable to remove growth points from all shoots that have reached a height of 15 cm. Short pruning of the stems stimulates the growth of branches from the side, each of which will give new buds.

The shortening of the shoots should be done after the end of the flowering of the room chrysanthemum. This usually happens in late autumn. After that, the flower pot is sent to a cool room for the winter.

Transfer


Home chrysanthemum needs regular replanting. Young flowers are transplanted every year into a larger container (a pot 2-3 cm wider than the previous one is chosen). For adult plants, the pot is replaced once every 2 years by the transfer method. To do this, you can use the same pot, and the procedure itself is required only to change the old caked soil.

It is possible to understand that a flower needs a transplant by lagging behind in development and a decrease in the diameter of flowers, a deterioration in their appearance. Water poorly passes through the soil to be replaced. Therefore, after watering, it lingers on its surface for some time. This does not go away even after loosening.

Important! A room chrysanthemum is transplanted in April or early May.

Reproduction


Indoor chrysanthemums can be propagated in three ways:

  • dividing the bush;
  • cuttings;
  • by sowing seeds.

The easiest way is to divide the bush. After the end of the dormant period, the flower forms up to 6 new shoots. To get independent plants from them:

  1. Remove the flower from the old pot.
  2. Divide the bush into several parts. Each should have at least one shoot and a developed root system.
  3. Prepare several pots to fit each seedling.
  4. Cover the bottom with a drainage layer.
  5. Sprinkle some suitable soil on top.
  6. Place a bush in the middle of the pot and fill the remaining space with soil.
  7. Lightly compact the soil around the plant and moisturize it. Sprinkle some more dry soil on top to prevent it from hardening.
  8. Place the pot on a tray and place it in a suitable location for the chrysanthemum.

The planted bush must be looked after as an adult plant, and then in the same year you can enjoy the lush flowering.

Step-by-step instructions for propagating chrysanthemum by cuttings:

  1. In the spring, when the chrysanthemum starts to grow, cut off the tops of the shoots 8-10 cm long.
  2. Remove the lower leaves so that the stem is absolutely bare 2-3 cm from the bottom.
  3. Prepare a shallow container (6-7 cm) and fill it with peat mixed half with river sand.
  4. Moisten the substrate.
  5. Stick the prepared cuttings into it, deepening the lower part by 15-20 mm.
  6. Cover the container with plastic or glass and place it in a well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight.
  7. Make sure that the temperature under the shelter is approximately +20 o C. Ventilate the greenhouse regularly and remove accumulated moisture from the film or glass surface. Moisten the substrate if necessary.
  8. Remove the cover when the cuttings are rooted. You will know that roots have appeared when the shoots start to grow. This usually takes 3-4 weeks.
  9. When the bushes are 15 cm tall, remove the growing point and transplant the seedlings into separate pots.

Cuttings are not the fastest way to reproduce. It is usually used when many seedlings need to be obtained from one plant. Another advantage of the method is the possibility of chrysanthemum propagation without disturbing the root system of the mother bush (without transplanting).

Advice! For faster rooting of cuttings, before planting in the substrate, dip their lower ends in a solution of a root growth stimulator (Kornevin, Epin, Zircon). They should be kept there for at least 30 minutes. You can simply dip the tip of the cutting into the preparation: several crystals will stick to it. And some growers root chrysanthemums in general in plain water.

Chrysanthemum seeds are rarely propagated. This is a laborious work, which is resorted to only when you want to get new varieties, or there is no material for vegetative propagation.


A step-by-step description of growing domestic chrysanthemums from seeds:

  1. Prepare a bowl and fill it with potting soil suitable for indoor chrysanthemums.
  2. Moisten the soil and sow the seeds without burying.
  3. Pour some soil on top: it should not cover the seeds, but only sprinkle them.
  4. Cover the dish with glass or plastic and place it in a well-lit place with diffused light. The room temperature should be within + 10 ... + 15 о С.
  5. Remove the cover every day to ventilate the seedlings, remove accumulated condensation from it, and, if necessary, moisten the soil.
  6. After 1-2 weeks, when the first shoots appear, remove the cover. Continue to care for the seedlings by regularly moistening the soil with a spray bottle.
  7. When chrysanthemums have 4, 5 or 6 leaves, cut the seedlings into a box or separate pots. The distance between the seedlings should be at least 5 cm, and preferably 10 cm.
  8. When you notice that the plants are about to bloom, transplant them into permanent pots.

Important! To propagate chrysanthemum seeds, use only store-bought seeds from trusted manufacturers. If you sow hand-picked seeds, they will produce flowers that do not have the same properties as the parent plant.


When the chrysanthemum is finished blooming, perform formative pruning and let the plant rest. A dark and cold room (cellar) is suitable for this. If this is not the case, you can put it on a glazed but unheated balcony.

Diseases and pests


The following pests can settle on chrysanthemum:

  • aphids (you will notice herds of this pest with the naked eye);
  • leaf nematodes (yellowed strings and worm-shaped ribbons appear on the leaves);
  • spider mite (except for white cobwebs, yellow spots appear on the leaves).

Aphids can be dealt with manually or by treating the plant with soapy water. But the leaf nematode and spider mite can only be removed with the help of insecticides (Aktara, Inta-vira, Aktellik). To destroy them, you will need at least 2 treatments with an interval of 1 week.

Chrysanthemum is also susceptible to fungal diseases. They develop when the air humidity is too high and the soil is regularly poured. These include:

  • powdery mildew (white bloom on the leaves, like flour);
  • fusarium wilting (the entire aerial part wilts, despite watering);
  • rust (rusty coating on leaves and stems);
  • leaf spot (light or dark spots appear on the leaves).

Chrysanthemum treatment consists in removing the affected parts of the plant, as well as spraying the flower with 0.2% Fundazole solution.

Another common disease in chrysanthemums is mosaic. It is viral in nature. This is one of the reasons that the plant does not bloom, or the flowers become very small. At the same time, the bush itself lags behind in growth. Such a chrysanthemum cannot be treated: it must be destroyed, and the pot must be disinfected so as not to infect other flowers.

Chrysanthemum is one of the easiest indoor plants to maintain. But it blooms for a very long time and beautifully. That is why flower growers all over the world love him so much. Plant an indoor chrysanthemum and grow a real garden in your home right on the windowsill.


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