Fastening the flooring to the wall. Non-standard use of well-known materials - we fix the laminate on the wall. For such an attachment, two types of clamps are used.

On the wall, at first glance it will seem unusual to the uninitiated in the trend modern renovation... However, there is no exotic here. In fact, this type of finish has not only an unusual, interesting look, but also very practical and durable. Laminate has been used for quite a long time on floors in different premises - everyone is used to it. But wall cladding with this material is perhaps extremely rare. There are a lot of photos by which you can judge the interesting nature of this method of decorating a room.

In this article, we will look at ways to clad walls with a laminate with our own hands, the technical and aesthetic components of this method. The use of laminate flooring for laying on the wall finds more and more widespread use in the interior of residential and office premises. Using MDF panels and of various kinds siding is a thing of the past. In the article, we will tell you how to fix the laminate on the wall with your own hands, demonstrate a photo and video instruction.

Advantages of laminate for wall cladding

• The main advantage of laminate flooring is its environmental friendliness. It does not contain toxic fumes, therefore it is excellent for a wide range of indoor applications.
• Laminate was originally designed as a floor covering, therefore it has excellent strength characteristics, which means that it will last on the wall for a very long time.
• Since the cost of the laminate directly depends on the strength class, then a low-class laminate is perfect for wall cladding, while absolutely not at the expense of quality.
• A huge number of different textures and colors. This opens up great horizons for imagination when decorating walls.
• Ease of installation of laminated panels. This means that even an inexperienced person can lay the laminate.

disadvantages

Unfortunately, this method also has disadvantages. Fortunately, there are not many of them:

• Susceptibility of this finishing material to moisture. Therefore, with prolonged contact of the laminate with water, deformation or swelling of the panels may occur.
• Certain sensitivity to sudden changes in temperature. This disadvantage must be taken into account, for example, when cladding kitchen walls. With a particularly unfavorable temperature conditions, the appearance quality may decrease slightly.

That's all. It is enough to observe some precautions, for example, it is not recommended to lay laminate on the walls of the bathroom, balcony, or kitchen. It is best to use traditional, proven methods as a finishing coating for the walls of these rooms.

How to choose a laminate for wall cladding

• Conventional shunt laminate. This species is familiar to everyone. It is he who is most often laid on the floor. The convenience of its use lies in the fact that the laminated panels themselves are connected with a special shunt lock;
• Adhesive laminate. This type of panels is connected to the surface and to each other using construction glue, or conventional liquid nails.
• Laminate with click lock. This type has a more perfect lock that snaps into place, preventing the panels from separating. Such a laminate has a higher strength.

Laminate is divided not only by color and texture, but the main indicator is the strength class. It is this parameter that determines the price of the material. It must be remembered that the higher the class, the higher the quality of the laminate. The advantage of using a laminated board for wall decoration is also the possibility of using panels of low class 21-31. After all, there will be no mechanical stress on the laminate.

How to mount on walls

So, to get beautiful finish on walls, you will need to carefully level the surface. The beauty and accuracy of the cladding depends on this. Treat this preparatory step as the most important. Of no small importance is how to fix the laminate. Laying laminate on walls is done in two ways:

• Fastening to the crate. It is used in the case of large curvature of the walls. The advantage of this method is that there is no need to level the walls. In addition, an additional layer of heat and sound insulation can be laid under the crate. In modern budget apartments with "cardboard" walls, this method may be preferable.
• First of all, you need to calculate required amount laminate. To this amount you need to add another 10 percent for trim and fit.
• Prepare the wall for installation. The wall must be smooth and dry. If you decide to make a crate, then this will require a little more effort from you. The lathing is made either from wooden blocks, or from metal or aluminum profiles, which are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The distance between the screws should be no more than 40 cm.
• Adhered directly to the wall. Here preparation of the surface for pasting is of particular importance. Various glue can be used: construction, liquid nails, titanium, etc. The glue is applied with a "snake".

Work procedure

• First of all, you need to calculate the required amount of laminate. To this amount you need to add another 10% for trim and fit.
• Prepare the wall for installation. The wall must be smooth and dry. If you decide to make a crate, then this will require a little more effort from you. The lathing is made either from wooden blocks, or from metal or aluminum profiles, which are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The distance between the screws should be no more than 40 cm
• The panels can be fixed to the wall both vertically and horizontally. If you plan to cover the entire wall from ceiling to floor, it is best to start at the top.
• In the case of gluing the laminate, it is treated with an adhesive, pressed against the wall and fixed for a while, until the glue sets. The panels are fastened to the crate with brackets, which are used for the installation of plastic panels.
• After finishing the walls, you need to give them a finished look by installing ceiling and floor skirting boards.

A photo

Video

This video shows the process of attaching a laminate to a wall, with an explanation of the craftsman doing the job:

This video will help you understand how to seal wall niches with laminate:

As you know, laminate is a floor covering. But what ideas do not come to minds of designers to create unique interior premises. One of these original solutions was the use of laminate for wall decoration.

This innovation is gaining more and more popularity, which is why many home craftsmen began to think about how to mount the laminate on the wall.

This article will show you how to mount laminate to walls.

Why walls are trimmed with laminate

It's no secret that PVC and MDF panels are most often used for simple and quick wall decoration.

If we consider the laminate from this point of view, then it has some advantages over them:

1. Its strength is much higher. PVC panels can break through on impact, and laminate designed for flooring can withstand high forces and loads.
2. Its hygroscopicity is much less than that of MDF panels and it is not difficult to wash the laminate.
3. Simplicity of care.

Against the background of these advantages, there is only one drawback - the cost, which is almost 2 times higher than that of the panels.

Problems when laying laminate on walls

Before you start attaching the laminate to the wall, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of this process.

In order to avoid problems that sometimes arise during installation, you need to know what they can be:

1. Laminate is quite heavy. That is why the surface to which it will be attached and the fasteners must be strong.
2. Despite the fact that the hygroscopicity of the laminate is much lower compared to panels, it has the ability to swell when the humidity in the premises changes.
3. The lower part of the protruding groove is used to fasten the panels to each other, which ensures quick and easy connection. The situation with laminate is somewhat more complicated. As a rule, laminated boards are equipped with click locks.

On the one hand, such a fastening provides good joint rigidity, but on the other? the head of a nail or self-tapping screw falling on such a lock will prevent it from tightly closing, which will lead to gaps.

Based on the above, we draw the following conclusions:

1. Laminate flooring should only be installed on a flat and solid surface. Drywall sheets planted on plaster can fall off together with the laminate boards fixed to them, under their weight.
2. Laminate panels must not be rigidly fixed. In the case of glue lines, they must be elastic.
3. When fastening boards, you should pay attention to the fact that fasteners do not fall on their locks.

Helpful advice! In rooms with high humidity, such as bathrooms and kitchens, it is not recommended to use laminate flooring as wall decoration.

This finish is only suitable for rooms with constant and moderate humidity levels (bedrooms, living rooms, hallways).

Installation of laminate

You can fix laminate boards on the walls with your own hands different ways... The technology of this process depends on the characteristics of the surface on which they are installed.

Mounting on a flat, solid surface

The easiest way - fastening the laminate to a plastered surface or sheathed with sheets of drywall. Such a surface is quite flat, so the laminate is attached to it with liquid nails. This adhesive bond, even after hardening, has good elasticity and is also quite strong.

The following instructions will assist you in your work:

• At the bottom we set a stop for the first row of laminated boards to avoid them slipping under their own weight.
• Apply glue in a zigzag pattern to the first board, press it tightly to the wall surface and immediately check the horizontal with a level.

• Apply glue to the next board. With this fastening, you should not knock the boards through the boss. It is recommended to insert them into the lock with a slight break, then click and press. While doing this, hold the bottom board.
• We lay the boards so that the transverse joints do not coincide in the adjacent rows.

Helpful advice! If you need to cover a small area with a laminate, then you can assemble a shield from it on the floor and stick it on the wall in this form.

Mounting on an uneven wall

To fix the laminate to a wall with irregularities, a crate is used.

1. You can mount the lathing frame from wooden slats section 40x40 mm or from metal profiles... The step of the guides should be no more than 60 mm.
2. We lay the first board so that it rests on the rail (profile). This will ensure the stability of the entire structure, and during installation it will not slide down.
3. The subsequent installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of a flat surface. Do not forget to bandage the transverse joints. A plinth for a laminate can also be useful in work.

Clamp mount

Laminate can be attached to walls not only with adhesives. There is a very simple and proven method - fastening with clamps.

These are galvanized brackets specially designed for fixing lining and laminate to walls or ceilings.

For such fastening, two types of clamps are used:

1. Serrated staples... They are driven into the board and fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate or wall;
2. Flat shoulder staples... They are used to press the protruding part of the Click-lock.

Self-tapping screws are used to fasten the cleats to a wall or board.

Conclusion

Laminate is a reliable and durable finishing material that gives any interior a beautiful and modern look... No wonder they began to use it for finishing many surfaces.

We have considered all the subtleties of laying laminate on the walls, fully covering the specifics of such works. These recommendations will help you avoid the main problems encountered during installation and implement it efficiently with your own hands without much difficulty.

Additional information and step by step process installation of laminate you can find in this video.

It has long ceased to be a purely floor covering, as its very presentable appearance and low weight allow you to refine any surface: sheathe the ceiling, decorate a niche or tile the entire room. In particular, we will consider how the laminate is mounted on the wall: methods of fastening and laying out the board, consumables and other nuances.

To create a decorative wall covering, a laminate with the lowest physical and mechanical characteristics (class 21-22) is usually used, because it will not have to experience any stress on the wall.

Note! This does not mean that, for example, a 32 class board cannot be used for wall cladding. You can, it just costs more, but this is impractical. However, you will even be forced to apply such a laminate if the finishing is done on the floor too.

Board formats vary. AT standard version This is a bar 1288 mm long and 186 mm wide. But depending on the desired design you can use narrow short planks that look like parquet... They look very interesting when laid with a herringbone or diagonally.

Before proceeding with the transformation of the interior, you must first decide on the acquisition of basic and supplies... And for this you need to accurately determine the technology, since you can attach the board to the wall with both glue and crate. Let's consider both methods.

Glue mounting

An adhesive finish always implies a perfectly flat base. Therefore, in preparation for installation:

• a brick or block wall will have to be plastered over the lighthouses;
• concrete panel walls are usually quite flat, they only need to be putty;
• in (and in any other) surface can be leveled with plywood, tongue-and-groove chipboard or drywall.

After the final primer has dried preparatory work, you can start installing the cladding.

Important! The newly purchased laminate must be acclimatized - that is, lie down in the room where it will be installed for at least 48 hours.

Facing in stages

To work, you will need two tools: an electric jigsaw and a drill with a "crown" attachment, through which holes are made for socket boxes and switches, as well as a metal square with a pencil and a clerical knife. Glue must be purchased polyurethane (it does not shrink), in a tube for a mounting gun.

Table. The main stages of cladding.

Steps, photo	Description of actions
	The first thing to do after printing laminate packaging is to sort the boards according to the intensity of the shade or the severity of the pattern. Most likely, it will turn out that certain options will prevail in number. Your task is to make sure that when laying in the covering, the boards alternate, and the unevenness of the pattern is not striking.
	The laminate board around the entire perimeter has lock connectionsprotruding beyond the painted chamfer. From the first board, from the side where it adjoins the perpendicular wall, the lock is cut off with a jigsaw. This can be done with a knife, but this is more likely to damage the chamfer.
	Glue is applied to the back of the board with a snake.
	Glue the first cladding element in the upper right corner, and then measure the remaining distance to the floor with a tape measure. Accuracy to the millimeter is not required here, since the gap will then still be closed with a plinth.
	One board does not cover the height of the wall, so it has to be extended along its length by cutting off pieces of a certain length. Usually, in order to save material, a "floating" layout is made, when the rest of the board, the first part of which was laid at the end of the previous row, is installed at the beginning of the next. On a note! An end cut can be performed in two ways: with a jigsaw equipped with a saw with a tooth in the opposite direction; grinder with a disc for ceramics. To avoid chipping of the decorative coating, the laminate is cut on the front side, having previously cut the top layer with a knife along the square.
	You don't cut along the line itself, but next to it. In this case, the cutting line turns out to be perfectly flat and without chipping. For a better effect, the edge can be slightly rounded with fine emery.
	The second row needs to be glued with a solid strip, for which all the parts are folded on the floor and fixed with tape.
	It turns out a long composite board: it is turned over, glue is applied and at once inserted into the lock of the first strip. If you lay each element of the strip one by one, then on each of them you will have to cut the end locks.
	If you need to make a hole for the socket, mark the board and drill it with a wood crown.

In the last row, the boards usually have to be trimmed longitudinally if they do not become wider. But even if they do, you just need to cut off the side lock, as was done at the very beginning.

Installation on crate

The lathing option is good when the wall needs to be insulated or soundproofed, or there is simply no desire to level the base in a wet way. Under the bars, which in this case are used for the lathing, irregularities can be compensated for using pads or straight hangers.

Advice! The tree is highly susceptible to linear expansion from temperature and humidity changes, which can affect the quality of the coating (). Therefore, it is very important that the bars used for the frame are well dried. Better yet, if they are heat-treated. Such wood is easily recognizable by its specific "tan", as in the photo.

1. You select the size of the bars depending on the presence or absence of internal filling... In addition to insulation, it is possible to provide for the installation of built-in lamps, the height of which will determine the amount of offset of the decorative surface from the wall. But if you are not going to do any of this, the size of the bar in the cross section of 45x70 mm will be quite enough. In this case, the distance of the cladding from the base base will be 45 mm.

   

2. If the laminate board will be mounted horizontally, the frame elements are positioned vertically on the wall. At the same time, all due to the same linear expansion, there must be a gap of at least 10 mm between their lower ends and the floor. The pitch between the frame belts is 600-650 mm.
3. Before installation in each frame element every 50 cm, it is necessary to pre-drill holes for fasteners. According to the preliminary marking, apply a timber to the wall, insert a pencil through these holes and put marks along which you will drill.

   

4. Select dowels depending on the type of base... If it is, for example, aerated concrete or ceramic block, special spacer fasteners are needed. The self-tapping fixing block must have a flat head, which is recessed flush with the surface of the tree. If it sticks out, the laminate will not lie flat on the crate.

   

5. Horizontal cladding runs from bottom to top... The first row of planks is laid so that the ridges "look" at the floor and wall, and the grooves - towards the laying of the following elements. After the level shows the perfect line, the laminate can be fixed to the frame. To do this, use self-tapping screws for wood with a flat cone head, and they are screwed along the bottom line - right through the laminate. In the picture below, these mounts are circled in red.

   

6. Along the upper edge, the board is no longer fixed through the front cover, but through the edge of the tongue, studs measuring 1.7x2.5 mm, hammered at an angle of 45 degrees. The end of the next board of the first row snaps into the lock of the previous one.

   

   

   

7. To seal the connection, attach a plate to it and tap it lightly with a hammer... Then it is fastened again with screws from the bottom through the front layer, and from above with nails through the lock.
8. Moving on to the second row... Saw its first board in half - this is necessary in order to ensure that the facing is offset by the seams. Now the boards are fixed from below only with a comb in a groove, and from above - all the same with nails. Everything else is done in the same way, until the wall is completely transformed.

   

To hide the ends of the laminate and give the cladding a finished look, you can use wood or polyurethane moldings, aluminum corner profiles. The principle of using the corners is shown above.

If on the wall there is outer corner, which also needs to be faced, then boards forming a right angle must be cut at 45 degrees. The joint can also be closed with a special profile. Alternatively, it can be sanded and covered with a pencil or other compound intended for repairing wooden surfaces.

Conclusion

Sometimes you need to hang something on the laminate cladding. A light object - for example, a framed poster - can be attached only in the places where the laminate meets the batten, directly to the bar. If, for example, you need to hang a TV on the wall, then you need to make a window in the cladding and attach it to the base base as shown in the picture.

Prices for laminate "Tarkett"

laminate tarkett

Video - How to mount a laminate on a wall

Into the practice of interior decoration in unusual ways entered long ago original use facing materials... One of the many design solutions - finishing of internal surfaces with laminated floor coverings. Against the background of the traditional use of lining, sheets of plastic or MDF, laminate panels certainly benefit from strength, attractive appearance. The products are not hygroscopic enough, it is undesirable to use them for facing rooms with high humidity. Therefore, before gluing the laminate to the wall, the fastening methods should be studied in more detail. As strange as it may seem, it is not much more difficult to attach laminated flooring to other planes than to do it at its direct destination - on the floor. Correctly fixed laminated element, diversifies and makes unusual interior hallway, hallway, bedroom or living room.

The best qualities of the product speak in favor of using a new-fashioned finish: high wear resistance, acceptable cost, strength, ease of maintenance. The material is produced in a wide range. Although it reminds natural wood, but manufacturing technologies allow to produce boards with different texture, texture, various wood shades. Installation of laminate on the wall can be carried out:

• on wooden crate, this method is called wireframe. For its manufacture, well-dried bars treated with antiseptic agents are used;
• on a frame made of aluminum profiles using silicone sealants;
• on special glue or liquid nails;
• using clamps, which are usually used for MDF panels.

On glue
On kleimers
On a wooden crate
On aluminum profile

If the fastening of the laminate to the frames does not require an absolutely flat surface, then gluing it or fastening with clamps, without preliminary preparation of the wall, will not work.

Laminate flooring material is quite heavy. It is undesirable for them to cover plasterboard partitions... There is a danger of collapse.

In order to choose the right way to mount the laminate on the wall, you should take into account such factors as the surface condition, the geometric dimensions of the room. Because the frame, no matter how thin it is, still steals space. It may be necessary to level the surface, as it will be more convenient to glue the laminate to the wall than to build the lathing.

Styling options

It is absolutely pointless to cover all surfaces in the room with laminate. Not everyone likes the floor, which passes to the inner planes up to the ceiling, or even onto it, from the same material. Even in different shades, textures. But individual accents and inserts can add some flavor and uniqueness to the interior. Moreover, laminated lamellas perfectly coexist next to any finishing materials. Therefore, they are applicable as in classic interiors, as well as in modern decorations, like industrial style or hi-tech. How to put the laminate on the wall, the decorator decides in each case individually.

There can be many options. But they depend not so much on the installation methods as on the color, technical characteristics, material texture. The lamellas can be placed horizontally, vertically, with offset boards, in a checkerboard pattern. Laminated products are used in the same color and of the same quality, or they try to attach planks using different combinations and transitions. That is, the imaginations of designers and customers are not limited by anything.
Vertical
Horizontal
Diagonal

In order to revet a vertical surface with a newfangled finish, it is not at all necessary to invite an expensive company or a construction team. You can save great money on labor costs, since fastening the laminate to the wall with your own hands is quite accessible even for a novice master. It is enough to watch a video on this topic, get acquainted with technologies, choose your option, buy everything you need and stock up on tools. To work you need the following tools:

• a hammer drill or a powerful drill, preferably with a victorious drill, if the building is built of stone, brick or concrete;
• screwdriver, jigsaw, hammer, pliers;
• building level and plumb line, measuring tape;
• pencil or marker;
• usually a trowel or trowel;
• spatulas different sizes, including toothed;
• a container for mixing glue and a corresponding attachment for a hammer drill or construction mixer.

Tools

This is a general list of tools that can come in handy at work. A more specific list is determined after making the exact decision how to fix the laminate on the wall. Will it be necessary to install the frame, or glue the material directly onto the finishing plane.

Installation rules

Since the methods of facing wall surfaces are strikingly different from one another, the technology of their production should be considered separately. But there is one general rule - materials are not used directly from the store. They must be kept for a certain time under the conditions of future operation.

Sheathing by wooden frame convenient in that between basic design and a free gap is formed with a finishing layer. The gap between the wall and the laminate can be used to hide communications, to create a sound barrier or for other purposes. Measures for laying wires and insulation should be carried out at the stage of installing the frame; after installing the finishing panels, this will not work. The process looks like this:

• if necessary, the wall is leveled with plaster mortar or embedded large shells, chips, cracks;

Surface leveling

• markup is made for placing the frame. The vertical beam is mounted in such a step that it is convenient to attach laminated planks to it. Usually this size is half the length of the board;
• the timber is cut according to the established dimensions and fastened vertically to the base using a level. The extreme bars require special attention, it is they who determine the future plane. They must be mounted at an ideal level;
• if the laminated boards will be located vertically, then the bars are mounted in the same order, only horizontally;
• a horizontal bar must be fixed slightly above the plane of the floor, since they begin to lay the laminate on the wall from the bottom. The quality of further work will depend on the correct installation of the first row;

Installation on a wooden crate

• special holders must be installed on the horizontal bar, with which it is convenient to install the first row of lamellas, with the groove up;
• the following panels are connected to the lower joint of the spike in the groove and fixing with brackets to the vertical bar;
• for greater strength, the joints are treated with silicone sealant, it should be applied to the spike of the inserted lamella.

The cladding is not made close to the floor and ceiling surfaces. Laying the laminate on the wall without creating an expansion joint or gap means creating additional stresses in the finished plane. This can lead to unnecessary deformations. The resulting gap is covered with decorative strips made of a material suitable for the general style of the room.

Wall & Water or the so-called “dry” method consists in the installation of a frame made of aluminum profiles. The panels are connected to each other and to the frame elements using silicone sealant and click elements. The distance from the wall to the cladding can also be used rationally.
Metal crate

In some cases, installation is carried out with clamps directly to the base, without lathing. This installation method is simple, but requires a flat surface, otherwise the strips of material will not be able to fit snugly to the base, and the gaps between the wall and the laminate, in this case, are not allowed. Such a defect will distort the surface and spoil the overall impression.

Glue method - for such a case, usually the thinnest material is chosen so as not to create unnecessary stress on the trimmed plane. You can fix the laminate on the walls with both ready-to-use glue and dry mixes. This method requires thorough surface preparation. The finished plane is marked out according to a previously developed layout scheme. Horizontal and vertical lines are needed in order to glue the boards accurately and evenly.
Fastening laminate flooring with liquid nails

It is convenient to assemble small boards on the floor and place them entirely on glue. To do this, the glue is applied in a uniform layer to the wall plane using a notched trowel, and the prepared boards or strips are pressed tightly. The lamellas are interconnected with locks, which are additionally lubricated with silicone.

What to do if the wall is uneven

Laying the laminate on the wall by gluing, in case of unevenness, is simply impossible. First, you need to either level the surface, or choose a different installation method. You can level the walls in different ways: with plaster, starting putty, sheathing with sheets of plywood, drywall or OSB, observing the appropriate technologies.

There is one caveat - since only some part of the plane is usually faced with laminated boards, then the entire base will have to be prepared in order to maintain geometry and symmetry. Otherwise, she will “dance” and look, to put it mildly, ugly.

Therefore, before deciding how to lay the laminate, it is necessary to correctly assess the quality and condition of the surface to be faced. Illiterately laid material cannot decorate a room.

Leveling walls with plaster

For which premises this finishing method is not suitable

In fact, there are no hard restrictions on the use of laminate flooring. But the solution to the issue of finishing should still be approached reasonably. Why spend money and effort on something that may not last long. Moreover, the choice finishing materials and the means are wide enough.

The material should not be used in rooms without heating and high humidity. It is not suitable for cladding lightweight partition walls and surfaces made from soft materials. A balcony or loggia can, of course, be revetted. But, it is highly undesirable to use glue there, and the crate or aluminum frame will steal part of an already small area. There is only one way left - to plant the slats with clays directly on the base. In any case, it is worthwhile to think carefully and calculate the options for how to fix the laminate on the walls. And then it's up to you to decide which finish to apply in a particular room. Now you know how to lay the laminate on the wall surface or, if necessary, glue the laminate to make the coating last as long as possible.

Video

The video explains in detail how to install the laminate on the wall.