Mounting angle (KU / KUU) is metal structure curved type, which serves as the basis for reliable attachment or connection of parts to each other. In construction, it is most often used for fixing wooden beams of different diameters to each other or to another material that will become the support or frame of the future building. The corner is used to create required angle between two supports, and the part itself is a connecting element.

1

The fixing angle is cast from durable, galvanized steel material by hot metal stamping (grade 08PS, GOST 14918-80). All over the surface there are uniform, perforated holes for various fasteners, such as screws, self-tapping screws, bolts of various diameters, etc. Fixing angles for construction differ in size, shape and scope. Regardless of the type and shape, this fastener has a number of advantages, namely:

  • Versatility. For work, there is no need to use special tools or complex bonding materials. It is enough just to choose reliable self-tapping screws or other screw-type fasteners with or without nuts and washers.
  • Reliability. Due to the exact angle at the junction of two bars or other parts, the structure has a high degree of reliability, while the reinforced metal corner is not subject to corrosion, since it is made of stainless steel by a special stamping method.
  • A wide selection of sizes and shapes, due to which you can choose reliable fixing angles for any type of timber or other building material.

Mounting brackets made of galvanized steel material

Reinforced or regular steel angle is used in various industries construction, as the main fastener for beams, beams, supports or wooden columns in the construction of residential buildings, boiler houses, commercial and industrial premises. In addition to the corners, for attaching the timber and wooden structures in construction, special metal supports, holders, connecting plates, backlash, etc. are also used.

2

All steel fasteners that are used to connect two or more structural parts together are of two types:

  • All-metal. The most common types of corners, holders and plates, which are used to attach a bar of standard sizes and sections.
  • Separate type. Prefabricated structures, which are usually used to support, fasten or connect non-standard types of timber or beams. In terms of the degree of reliability and rigidity, such parts are inferior to solid structures, therefore, before their use, various parameters of the rigidity of the structure are additionally calculated.

All-metal fastener

In addition to differences in the type of production and assembly, the corners differ in size and shape, as well as in thickness, which, depending on the type and manufacturer, varies from 2 to 3.5 millimeters. The most common types in construction are:

  • Reinforced mounting bracket (KUU). It has one or more special stiffeners, which makes it possible to use it when connecting beams and beams of a large section with other materials (brick, aerated concrete, metal) to ensure high reliability and rigidity of the structure.
  • Standard, equilateral, reinforced (KU-R). It is a flat metal plate bent at an angle of 90 degrees with uniform perforated holes on both sides. Used for fastening mainly wooden parts between themselves in places where there is no high deflection load. There are narrow and wide equilateral parts of this type.
  • Anchor type (KUA). a special form, reinforced or ordinary, which is distinguished by a disproportionate length-width-height indicator, where the first two values \u200b\u200bare equal, and the height is of several types (usually 80, 120 or 200 millimeters).
  • Asymmetric (KUAS). It is most often used to create a right angle to a plane, in terms of properties and hole perforation diameter it is similar to an anchor-type corner, but they differ in width.
  • Corner at 135 degrees (KUS). Fastener for creating a reliable connection of a bar at a given angle. As a rule, it is used in the construction of roofs and sheds for fastening wooden rafters together.
  • Z-shaped. Reinforced piece of narrow specification for fastening building materialslocated in two different planes relative to each other, that is, parallel. In addition, it is used to connect load-bearing structures or for fixing a bar of non-standard dimensions.

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As a rule, corners should be purchased in bulk for several pieces of the same or different types, in which case the retail price for the product will be significantly lower. A standard reinforced one costs around 15-25 rubles apiece in various hardware stores and online sites.

Standard mounting angle 70x70x55

To securely fasten the corner with your own hands, you must also choose the right screws or self-tapping screws. We recommend using steel self-tapping screws for perforated holes different thicknesses... Do not use nails, as over time their fastening properties weaken due to corrosion. If you use a reinforced fastening angle for attaching a bar in places with a high further load, it is better to choose long self-tapping screws with several types of threads and reliable fixation.

The optimal angle thickness is 2.5 mm for a reinforced part and 2 mm for a regular or steel plate. And you should definitely pay attention to the manufacturer. Low-quality parts can quickly rust and lose their properties, while weakening the main structural elements.

Puttying the corners of a two-level ceiling begins with the installation of perforated corners

If you do not live in a round tower without windows and doors, then your home must have corners - internal and external. And during the repair, you have to decide how to finish them so that they turn out to be perfectly flat and protected from mechanical stress.
If the joint between the walls and the ceiling or floor is easy to hide with a baseboard / cornice, then putty inner corners between the walls and outside, formed by window and door slopes, niches and ledges, must be performed with high quality. To simplify this task, special perforated corners are used, the purpose and types of which you will learn from this article.

Perforated corners are often referred to as painting or plastering corners, as they are used during plastering / plastering to reinforce corners before decorative finishing.
They serve two purposes:

  • Reinforce corners, especially outer corners, give them additional strength and resistance to damage. It is no secret that protruding corners are more often than flat surfaces exposed to chips, scratches and other mechanical influences, for example, when large furniture is carried through a doorway.
  • They allow you to quickly and easily arrange the joint of perpendicular surfaces, to make it even and clear. This, in turn, facilitates the subsequent finishing: it is easier to glue wallpaper or tiles in even, not "overwhelmed" corners, the result is better.

What are the corners?

Materials for making

First of all, these products differ in the type of raw materials from which they are made.
There are three main types:

  • Made of galvanized steel. Robust, reliable, corrosion-resistant thanks to zinc coating on all sides.
    However, prolonged use in humid environments may cause rust stains.

  • Aluminum. Lightweight, durable, non-corrosive. But they are not resistant to close proximity to copper and some other substances.

  • PVC (polyvinyl chloride). The price of these products is the lowest, and they have no less advantages than metal corners.
    First of all, it is absolute inertness to moisture and aggressive chemicals - plastic corners do not corrode, do not rot, do not deform.

For reference. PVC products are becoming more and more popular every year. There are various modifications of plastic perforated corners on sale, including those combined with a serpyanka tape and with an adhesive applied to the inner surface that facilitates installation.

Configurations

The line where two surfaces meet is not always straight. In the manufacture of arches (see How to beautifully decorate a drywall arch), curved multi-level plasterboard ceilings and other structures, it can take very intricate forms. Such corners simply cannot be protected with the products shown above.
Special arched corners are produced for them. Most often, the raw material for their manufacture is plastic polyvinyl chloride. An arched corner for putty differs from a straight one in that one of its sides is cut with “petals”, which allow it to be bent in any direction with any radius of curvature.

Curved corners are much more difficult to give a clear shape when finishing, especially if you do not have a certain skill in putty and plaster. Arched corners allow you to do this without any problems.

How to mount perforated corners

Let's talk in detail about how to finish the corners with your own hands using the described products.
Let's take one of the most difficult options, when it is necessary to "bring out" the joints of window or door openings with walls, when plastering which the workers did not bother themselves with keeping the level.

Note. When finishing the corners formed by drywall sheets, such problems usually do not arise: their surface is even and smooth, and the sheets themselves, as a rule, are attached to a frame brought out at the level. In such cases, it is most reasonable to use PVC corners with an adhesive inner surface.

So, the putty of the corners of the walls and slopes begins with the installation of the corners, which is carried out in the following sequence:

  • Measure the length of each seam and cut the corners to size. Plastic ones are cut with ordinary scissors or a painting knife, metal ones - with metal scissors;

  • To prevent thickening from overlapping the corners, their outer side is cut at an angle of 45 degrees;
  • Then a building level is applied to each side of the slope in order to determine the degree of its evenness and "blockage" in one direction or another. You can make notes on the wall so that you know where to apply more putty, much less;
  • Prepare required amount mortar and apply it to the slope on both sides, but not in a continuous layer, but at intervals, focusing on the marks made earlier;
  • Attach a corner to the slope on top of the putty slaps and lightly press into it so that a small part is squeezed out through the holes;
  • After removing the squeezed out mortar with a spatula, use a level to check the vertical or horizontal position of the corner. Get it in the correct position by pressing harder where required;
  • Further, the instruction requires you to wait a while for the putty to grab and fix the corner. Then you can putty the corner, filling with mortar empty spaces and leveling adjacent surfaces.

Council. If the corners and walls are practically even, you can immediately use the finishing putty. If they require serious correction, it is better to start with the starting one, and apply the finishing one with a second layer.

As in the case of a straight plane, the ideal smoothness of the corner is achieved by sanding (see How to sand the walls after putty and how to do it correctly). In the process of grinding, it is advisable to smooth the corner itself a little, round it off - this will facilitate the subsequent finishing and make it more resistant to mechanical damage.

Conclusion

Professional finishers can easily cope with the task of aligning corners and without any additional tools. But they also often use perforated corners precisely for the purpose of giving the protruding joints more strength. You can see how they do this in the video in this article. And try to repeat during renovation. This is not difficult.

The outer corners must be leveled and reinforced during the repair process, for which it is necessary to use a perforated corner of various sections. Today we will tell you about attaching a perforated painting corner to an external plaster or plasterboard corner, as well as clarify the stages of work and the materials necessary for this.

Materials and tools

The corner has a central stiffener and side strips with perforations, which help the element to be securely fixed on the edges of the outer corner. You can fix the corner on gypsum plaster or a starting putty, as a rule, a putty mixture is used to fix it on drywall, and a gypsum plaster composition is used to fix it on plaster. External corners are not only vertical angles at the junction of two walls, but also cuts of plasterboard ceiling structures, as well as window and door slopes.

Instructions

For work, in addition to the corner and the material, you will need metal scissors, a spatula and a level. First, the perforated element is cut at an acute angle from the edges with scissors, then a small amount of Rotband or Start putty is kneaded and installation begins.

When fixing at an angle from gypsum plasterboard, a minimum amount of putty is required, it is applied with a spatula along the edges of the outer corner, the corner is applied to the base and pressed tightly. Remains of the mixture that have broken through the perforations are removed. In this case, you can do without a level, because the gypsum boards are attached exactly and there is no point in doing the same job twice. With ideally even corners of the gypsum board structures, the corner is fixed with a stapler.

When attaching the corner to plaster, most often the angle must be trimmed, therefore the gypsum mixture is applied with strokes of greater thickness, the corner is applied without pressing and only then it is pressed with a level until it is completely aligned vertically. Since in some places of the outer corner the corner protrudes above the surface of the side walls by 3-4, and sometimes by 5-7 mm, then after fixing the element of the hole on the wall it is necessary to close plaster mix with a spatula, wide from 40 cm.

Putty and plaster for fixing the corner should be kneaded only in a plastic bucket, pouring water into it first and then adding the dry mixture and kneading it with a mixer. The consistency of the mixture is from "thick sour cream" for gypsum board and gypsum plasterboard to liquid plasticine for plaster corners with large differences.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we note that in addition to painting there are plaster corners, which, instead of perforation, have a rigid mesh on the sides, they are used only in plastering work, fixing directly into the mortar body at an angle and plastic elements for curved corners.

Below you can see a video on attaching a perforated corner.

Repair or the beginning of the creation of the interior in the house is associated with the issue of arranging the corners in the apartment. Various materials and components are used for this purpose. Today we will try to understand this issue and come up with an optimal solution.

Types of corners

Wall corners, for arches and doorways differ in functional and aesthetic characteristics:

  • Plastic. It is a lightweight material that is resistant to chemicals and water.
  • Wooden. They look beautiful, but at the same time create a fire hazard, that is, they are very flammable.
  • Metallic. Combine most positive qualities, which does not include their cost.
  • MDF. This material is strong and durable, comparable to natural wood.
  • And others, less popular.

It is important that the materials they are made of are lightweight and strong to prevent the walls from shedding and that the adhesive can support their weight. With the help of these structures, it is possible to hide irregularities and cracks that have arisen during construction or operation. Corners will look beautiful on rectangular and other types of arches.

Corners are used not only for outer cornersbut also for internal ones. Manufacturers make them with double-sided colors. This solution is very convenient in design.

It is necessary to think in advance how the doorway or arch will look like in your home, in order to subsequently order the necessary corners that are suitable for them.

To fix the corners, you can use the following compounds:

  • liquid Nails;
  • sealant;
  • corner glue;
  • nails.

The most reliable and the best from an aesthetic point of view is the corner glue. We will talk about it in more detail.

Types of glue for corners

There are many manufacturers of adhesives for these purposes, which provide a variety of formulations. And the compositions themselves differ in technical specifications... Let's consider the most popular ones.

  1. Polyurethane adhesive. It can even be specialized for gluing plastic corners. Each of them is designed for gluing plastic. If you are wondering how to glue plastic corners to panels, polyurethane glue will be the best solution for you. Such glue has many advantages over others: elasticity is combined with strength, one composition, does not leave dirt, chemical inertness, reliability.
  2. Liquid Nails. Do not be confused by the name, as this is also a kind of glue. It is named so because of its increased strength characteristics. It is suitable for gluing plastic corners to wallpaper. It also has a number of advantages: it does not require drilling holes in hard materials, it is easy to operate, has anti-corrosion characteristics, does not stain the surface and does not damage plastic. Great for sticking decorative corners to any surface. If you are wondering how to glue a plastic corner to the wallpaper, then liquid nails will be the best answer to this question. When working with liquid nails, it is important to consider the color of the composition itself. If the corners for wallpaper or arches whitethen it is best to use a colorless glue. In other cases, you can use any composition. Such glue is successfully used for gluing PVC panels.
  3. Sealant. This is exactly the tool that allows you to answer the question of how to glue the plastic corner to the tile. There are several types of sealants based on the use of various materials... Be careful when choosing, as not all of them are suitable for use with plastic. Professionals argue that the best option there will be acrylic sealant for gluing the corners. It allows the use of plastics, has good adhesion characteristics, is odorless, does not contain toxic chemicals, and is moisture resistant.

Choose corner glue based on your purpose.

Preparing corners for work

The main question here is "how to bend the plastic corner." it difficult task... This is necessary in the case when it is necessary to make a strip for an arch round shape and then, when in the store you come across a deformed sample. This process can be done with a hair dryer. By heating and bending, you will give the thin plastic the desired shape.

The preparation of the plastic doesn't end there. Clean them from dirt and degrease. When using glue, wipe it dry and keep it dry.

How to glue the corners

Each element has its own gluing technology. Let's analyze each one in order.

  1. How to glue a plastic corner to the wallpaper. First, you need to decide which one to choose. Here the choice is based on the color of the wallpaper. The most harmonious option would be a repeating color. Secondly, you need to choose the most suitable adhesive. The best choice liquid nails will become (if the corners are light, then it is better to choose a colorless composition). Now proceed with the installation. Measure and cut the plank to the required length. Here you will experience difficulties. The corner is trimmed at a 45 degree angle. Experienced craftsmen they can even cut it off by eye, but you may need a miter box and a hacksaw for metal. Clean the strip from dirt, wipe with a dry cloth. Remove the wallpaper at the installation site. This is necessary so that the glue is as effective as possible, and the connection lasts longer. After that, apply the composition along the entire length of the plank and wallpaper. Make sure that there is not too much glue, otherwise it will protrude over the edges, and it is not easy to clean it from the wallpaper.
  2. How to glue a corner to the wall. You must follow the same rules. The only difference is in the use of glue. For a painted wall, an acrylic sealant works best. The same answer will be for the question of how to glue the corners to the slopes.
  3. How to glue a plastic corner on an arch. This is a little more complicated. First, clarify which glue better fit for the material from which the arch is made. This can be a drywall doorway, or from other materials, and for each the best option will have its own glue. In the case of round arches, bend the plastic strips using the above technology. Cut the corners as follows. On the one hand (inside the opening), you need to cut end-to-end, on the other, leave it with a margin (then it will be possible to trim). It is necessary to glue using a technology that is original for each composition.

Now you know how to glue a corner on an arch, and you can use this knowledge in practice. Choose the right corners for your apartment, install them and create original design in your home, so that it is comfortable every day, and the guests visiting your monastery were surprised.

Plastic slope corners are the logical completion of the house renovation. They act as a protective and aesthetic design for doorways, window slopes and corners.

Today we will look at how to glue plastic corners to the slopes with our own hands and the better to glue the plastic corners to the door slopes.

Scope of use and additional information

The framing corner is made by hot folding the PVC sheet. The decorative element makes it possible to choose colors that suit any interior. Application area:

  • Window slope inside a house or apartment.
  • how outer material to protect external or internal corners.
  • Door or arched opening.
  • To protect the corner of the wall when wallpapering.
  • Corner protection for plastic finishing in the bathroom.
  • Drape the joint when decorating the external cladding with siding.

A plastic element is a good protector against mechanical stress, but, like any material, it has advantages and disadvantages:

  1. The installed corner is used as a seam finish at the junction of the finishing materials.
  2. Long service life - up to 25 years.
  3. Installation is carried out independently, you can glue the corner without preliminary preparation.
  4. The plastic element is easy to cut and comes in different colors.
  5. Acceptable price.

Among the shortcomings, the following were significant:

  1. Plastic is a fragile material, so it must be cut with special tools - cracks may appear.
  2. The combustible finishing element does not tolerate high temperatures.

Compare types and sizes

Framing always starts with choosing the type and size of the plastic element. The table shows data about plastic corners, their sizes and types for slopes:

View: The size:
Equilateral: 20 * 20 - 50 * 50 mm, standard length, fixed to give strength.
Not equilateral: 5 * 17 and 20 * 25 mm, facing of arch openings, it is customary to install on curved compositions.
T-shaped: 12 * 10, 18 * 10, 20 * 10, 22 * \u200b\u200b10 mm, installation is necessary to hide the seams.
Removable (there is a latch): Standard, the shelf is folded back for dismantling. Simple fastening, no need to stick.

During installation, you need to cut the corner to form the desired length. A sharp stationery knife will help with this. If you need to cut at a clear angle, you will need to prepare a miter box and a hacksaw for metal.

Important! The colored plastic corner for internal slopes is produced in lengths of 2.6 m, 2.7 m, 2.8 m, 3.0 m.

How to glue plastic corners on slopes (video)

Preparatory work

The installation process begins with the selection of the adhesive mixture. Polyurethane glue fixes plastic elements well, allows you to frame surfaces where there will be a load. Provides an opportunity to glue details in the bathroom if ceramic tiles are glued.

The silicone sealant is used as a fixer with less stress. The corner can be glued using liquid nails, if the edging is dark, then you can glue it with a black compound, for light and white - transparent.

Installation of plastic corners


The work on installing plastic corners on slopes is as follows:

  • Regardless of where you need to glue the plastic corners - on the door, if a casing or window is not provided, outside or inside, you need to take measurements and cut the material to length correctly.
  • Prepare the surface where gluing will take place - remove unnecessary elements, clean the base.
  • Install and glue the strips correctly.

How to properly glue plastic corners to any slopes:

  • Degrease the surface well before attaching the corner piece.
  • Polyurethane foam is not used in the design process.
  • Excess protruding plaster is smoothed out to a noticeable smoothness.

  • The sticker provides for marking with a pencil.
  • Before gluing all the details, you should use the advice: corners for door slopes and plastic windows better to measure locally. First of all place the top horizontal element and then mark the vertical stripes using the cutting tool.

Important! Using photos and videos, each beginner will cope with the gluing process on their own. The metal element is also fixed with self-tapping screws.

Sheathing with corners also implies additional fastening of the strips using narrow masking tape. Fix the strip with it in several places and leave it for about 24 hours. This time is enough to reliably glue the corners to the surface.

If the corner is used as finishing, then the place of its gluing should be cleaned from finishing materials... Thus, the grip quality is increased. When fixing on an area decorated with trellises, a strip should be cut a couple of millimeters wide than the plastic corners. Adhering to simple rules design, fixing decorative elements will be simple and quick, and in the end they will delight you with an aesthetic and relaxed look.

Photo gallery of finished works


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