We insulate the cold attic. Stone wool installation technology. Do-it-yourself attic insulation in a private house: technology Insulation in an attic in a private house is cheap

I decided to devote this article to those people who want to insulate the attic of the house on their own without large financial costs. Next, we will get acquainted with thermal insulation materials suitable for these purposes and the nuances of their installation.

Thermal insulation of the attic

We will conditionally divide the insulation of the attic in a private house into:

Floor insulation

Floor insulation can also be divided into several steps:

Stages of floor insulation

Preparation of materials

First you need to decide on the choice of thermal insulation material. There are quite a few options. However, our task is to insulate the floor with minimal financial costs.

sawdust - thermal conductivity is 0.07 - 0.095 W / m ºС. The main advantage of sawdust is that in the presence of nearby woodworking enterprises, they can be purchased very cheaply or even free of charge.

Wood sawdust is an excellent natural insulation

The only thing, keep in mind that before use, the sawdust must be dried and treated with an antiseptic composition. Also, slaked lime mixed with carbide can be used to protect sawdust from biological effects.

If the sawdust has traces of fungal infection, they cannot be used for insulation;

Reed insulation mat

reeds are another natural material that can be obtained for free. The thermal conductivity of reeds does not exceed 0.042 W / (m.K). Reeds for thermal insulation are harvested in late autumn with the onset of the first frosts, when the stems remain almost completely without foliage. Moreover, you can only use mature plants. These stems are easily identified by their light yellow tint.

Penoizol is applied in liquid form

penoizol is a modified foam that is applied to the surface in the form of foam. The foam hardens within a few days. Penoizol has a lower thermal conductivity than all the materials described above - 0.028 - 0.040W / (m * K). In addition, penoizol is not subject to biological effects, does not burn and is not afraid of moisture. The disadvantage of this material is that insulation of the attic with penoizol requires certain equipment. Accordingly, you will not be able to cope with the work on your own. The cost of the material with the work of specialists is 1450-1500 rubles per cubic meter.
True, you can use dry penoizol in bags, but in this case its price will increase to 2000-2300 rubles per cubic meter;

Expanded clay for floor insulation

expanded clay is an environmentally friendly and fireproof natural material that is sold in the form of durable granules. The cost of expanded clay starts on average from 1000 rubles per cubic meter, which allows it to be classified as a budget heater. The disadvantage of expanded clay is a higher thermal conductivity of 0.1 - 0.18 W / (m * K). Therefore, for high-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling, expanded clay must be covered with a layer of at least 20 cm.

Mineral mats

mineral wool is also an environmentally friendly and fireproof material with low thermal conductivity (0.038 to 0.055 W / m * K). Generally, rock wool is sold in mats or rolls. Its main disadvantage is its rather high cost - from 2300-2500 rubles per cubic meter of basalt mats. True, you can use stone wool in rolls, the cost of which starts from 1,500 rubles per cubic meter. But, this material is less environmentally friendly than basalt wool.

Recently, cellulose-based insulation - ecowool - has become widespread. This material is treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant, therefore it is fireproof and not subject to biological influences. The cost of ecowool is 1200-1500 rubles per cubic meter.

Everyone should choose the best way to insulate the attic in a private house, depending on the needs and availability of a particular heat insulator.

Vapor barrier membrane

In addition to thermal insulation, you will need other materials:

vapor barrier membrane;
boards, OSB sheets or other material that can be laid on floor beams;
antiseptic impregnation for wood.

Impregnation for wood

Floor preparation

Start insulation attic floor possible only after completing the following preparatory work:

if there is a flooring on the floor beams, it must be dismantled;
then the wooden beams must be treated with antiseptic impregnation. Instructions for the use of such formulations are available on the packaging;
if there is no overlap (filing), it must be done. For this, boards can be nailed to the beams from the inside, i.e. from the side of the room.

This completes the preparation.

An example of laying a vapor barrier on beams and rolling

Floor insulation

Insulation of the attic floor is carried out as follows:

a vapor barrier membrane must be laid on the logs and roll. The stripes must overlap each other. For reliability, the joints should be glued with tape;
thermal insulation is now being installed. The mineral mats must be positioned so that they fit snugly against the floor joists and each other. The same goes for roll material;

Laying example mineral wool

over the floor beams and thermal insulation with their own hands, another layer of vapor barrier is laid and glued with adhesive tape;
then boards or other material are laid on the floor beams. If the attic will be used as a living space, you can install logs to level the surface, and lay a sub-floor on top.

If the house has a concrete floor, mineral mats or extruded polystyrene foam should be laid on the slab to insulate it, and the screed should be poured. In this case, the insulation on both sides must be covered with a waterproofing film, especially if mineral mats are used.

I must say that the ceiling can be insulated not only from the outside, but also from the side of the room. True, in this case, the choice of insulation is limited, since it will not be possible to use bulk materials.

Ceiling insulation with mineral mats

As an example, consider how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with isover, i.e. mineral mats:

first of all, it is necessary to dismantle the roll. In this case, it is advisable to lay the boards on top of the beams, and fix them;
then a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the beams and boards. You can use a stapler to fix it;
now mineral mats should be placed in the space between the beams. To fix them, you can use slats across the beams. Also, nails are often nailed to the beams, between which the threads are pulled;

Fastening the vapor barrier with a stapler

after that, you need to attach another layer of vapor barrier to the beams;
at the end of the work, you need to roll forward, after which you can deal with the arrangement of the ceiling.

Roof insulation

In most cases, roof insulation is not required. But, if you are going to use the attic space as a living space, then you cannot do without this procedure.

Do-it-yourself roof insulation in a private house can also be divided into several stages:

Stages of attic insulation

Preparation of materials

Since it is inconvenient to use bulk materials for roof insulation, you can use mineral mats. To save even more, you can make reed mats.

In addition to insulation, you will need the following set of materials:

vapor barrier;
nails and threads;
wooden slats;
antiseptic impregnation.

Antiseptic treatment of rafters

Roof preparation

Before proceeding with roof insulation, you need to do some preparatory work:

first of all, inspect the rafter system for its integrity. If any parts are cracked or rotted, they must be replaced or repaired;
if the thickness of the insulation exceeds the thickness of the log, they must be increased. To do this, nail beams or boards of sufficient thickness to them;
then all wooden structures must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect them from biological effects.

Roof insulation scheme

Roof insulation

Do-it-yourself roof insulation in a private house is carried out as follows:

the vapor barrier membrane must not touch the roof waterproofing. To provide space between these materials, you need to nail nails to the rafters, and pull the threads between them in a zigzag fashion;

Fastening the vapor barrier to the rafters

then fasten the vapor barrier membrane to the rafters with a stapler or small nails. Let me remind you that the smooth side of the vapor barrier should face the insulation. Glue the joints of the film with tape;

Insulation of the space between the rafters with mineral wool

now you need to put the insulation in the space between the rafters. To prevent cold bridges in the thermal insulation, place the mats close to the rafters and to each other. If the gaps are still formed, they need to be filled with scraps of insulation. To fix the thermal insulation between the rafters, you can also nail nails and pull the threads between them;
after laying the insulation, another layer of vapor barrier must be fixed on the rafters;

Lathing example

at the end of the work, you need to complete the crate using slats or boards about 2 cm thick, to which finishing materials can be attached.

Warming of gables

Now it remains only to insulate the gables, if, of course, they are available. I must say that it is more expedient to insulate them from the outside in parallel with the insulation of the entire facade. However, if the facade will not be insulated, then the thermal insulation must be made from the inside.

For this we need the same materials as for finishing the roof. The only thing besides them should be prepared beams or boards. Their width should correspond to the width of the insulation.

Insulation work resembles the thermal insulation of ordinary walls:

to provide a ventilation space between the walls and the insulation, it is necessary to fix the slats on the gables in a horizontal position. The vertical step should be about half a meter, and the horizontal step should be a few centimeters.

Installation diagram of rails on gables for arranging a ventilation gap

Keep in mind that the slats should form a flat vertical plane... Therefore, if the gables are uneven, it is necessary to align the slats during the installation process;

then a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the slats. During installation, make sure that the film does not sag;
then vertical racks (beams or boards) are installed. To fix them, you can use self-tapping screws and metal corners. Make the distance between the posts a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mats;

An example of laying mineral mats in the space between the posts

now the space between the racks must be filled with insulation. If the racks are installed correctly, the mats will fit tightly and no additional fixation is required;
then attach the vapor barrier to the racks;

In the photo - an example of the lathing of the insulated pediment

at the end of the work, mount the crate.

Now all that remains is to complete the finishing. Choice finishing materials depends on the purpose of the housing and the attic itself. If, the house is used for permanent residence, and the attic will be heated, you can sheathe it with plasterboard and use any finishing materials.

Decorating a cold attic should be done with materials that are not afraid of low temperatures. Therefore, it is better to refuse to use wallpaper and plastic panels.

Output

Insulating the attic yourself, as you can see, is not at all difficult. Therefore, you can safely get down to work, the only thing, I recommend that you also watch the video in this article. If you do not understand any nuances, please contact me with questions in the comments, and I am happy to see you "width \u003d" 640 "height \u003d" 360 "frameborder \u003d" 0 "allowfullscreen \u003d" allowfullscreen "\u003e

Output

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How to inexpensively insulate an attic in a private house with your own hands

As you know, the space under the roof is designed to protect the house from the cold in winter and from excess heat in the summer. At the same time, it is through a poorly insulated attic that the house loses a significant amount of heat. The presence of problems is indicated primarily by the rapid melting of snow on the roof.

Sooner or later, any homeowner begins to think about how to properly insulate their attic, and this will significantly reduce heating costs.

The following materials are most often used for this purpose:

mineral wool;
expanded clay;
polyurethane.

All of these tools are quite effective and at the same time relatively inexpensive.

It is worth noting, first of all, that the insulation of an attic in a private house with your own hands can be done in two ways. In many respects, the choice depends on whether the owner intends to use this space in the future for arranging the attic or not.

If you have enough money, of course, it is better to entrust the work to professionals. Nowadays, a lot of companies on the Russian market provide the corresponding services. But with a lack of finance, it is not difficult to insulate your house without outside help.

Inexpensive materials for insulation

It is important to note that not everything that is used to insulate a house from the outside is suitable for insulating an attic. The significant point here is fire safety.

As practice shows, you can use both modern and old proven methods used by our grandfathers. However, only three types of thermal insulation are most popular for such work:

mineral wool (both pressed into slabs and rolled);
foamed polyurethane;
bulk (a mixture of clay with sawdust, expanded clay, etc.).

See also: How to insulate the attic floor with mineral wool

The first material is the most versatile and is used both for facades and for insulating floors between floors and attics.

This thermal insulation requires, due to its hygroscopicity, to ensure reliable protection from condensation and generally from water. For this, a hydro-barrier is used. It is produced in rolls with a width of 1.5 meters. In fact, this is a special multilayer reinforced film that is capable of passing moisture out, but prevents moisture from penetrating inside. In this case, mineral wool should also be protected from steam coming from warm rooms. For this purpose, a vapor barrier is placed under the insulation. The perfect solution there will be a film covered with foil - this will allow infrared radiation to be reflected back into the house.

Increasingly, polyurethane foam is now being used. This material has proven to be resistant to both temperature extremes and chemicals. At the same time, it is very light and extremely weakly conducts heat.

The insignificant weight of the insulation is a very important factor when insulating the attic, because loads of this kind were not taken into account when building a house. At the same time, the softness of polyurethane allows you to completely cover the insulated surface without the danger of creating so-called "cold bridges" in some hard-to-reach places.

Polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the surface using special devices. As a result, a dense monolithic coating is created, which does not allow heat to go outside the house, while protecting the treated structures from dampness. This material is not afraid of any fungus or mold.

Minvata also has a fairly light weight. It is usually made from basalt. There is, however, a cheaper option - glass. If you just need to insulate the attic floor in order to minimize heat loss in living quarters, then cotton wool is placed between the logs, covering the surface, as previously mentioned, with a vapor barrier and covering it with waterproofing on top.

In a situation where it is planned to equip an attic room under the roof, thermal insulation is placed between the rafters.

For middle band In Russia, the minimum thickness of mineral wool should be 20 centimeters; for colder regions, a layer from 25 to 30 is required. It is extremely important when insulating with this material:

do not leave gaps (cotton wool is cut with a margin, so as to tightly cover the entire space);
do not compress it (it is the air contained in the mineral wool that ensures the preservation of heat).

Those who believe that with a thinner carpet in the attic it will simply become colder are mistaken. Everything is much more complicated. A thin layer of insulation will result in the dew point not being reliably insulated from outside cold and domestic heat. As a result, moisture will begin to condense and drain to the bottom. As a result, with high dampness, real rain can begin.

When insulating the roof directly, it is necessary to make sure that all structures are sufficiently reliable, despite the relative lightness, mineral wool is, in general, a rather large additional load on the frame.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is an insulation made from clay. It is sold in the form of rounded granules. It is advisable to use it for insulation of the attic floor. The material is simply scattered between the lags. Due to its shape, it fills the entire space and does not create cold bridges. Moreover, he:

not afraid of moisture;
keeps warm well;
environmentally friendly;
not flammable.

At the same time, expanded clay is a very durable material, the price of which is more than acceptable.

It is worth noting that before falling asleep the heat insulator, it is necessary to spread glassine or, for example, roofing material under it. This will protect it from moisture and avoid an increase in thermal conductivity. On top of the expanded clay layer, as a rule, a floor is laid from boards in order to use the attic as a storage. If the overlap of the house allows, then it is allowed to arrange a concrete screed from above, the thickness of which should be approximately 5 centimeters.

Sawdust

First of all, it should be noted that a significant drawback of this material is its high flammability. Probably, it is this circumstance that makes it not very popular. Meanwhile, sawdust effectively cope with the task of saving heat and is practically worthless. In Russia, they have been used for this very purpose for a long time. Often they were mixed with clay before laying - such a mass, having high plasticity, made it possible to reliably protect all living quarters from the cold. Moreover, after drying, it became very strong.

See also: Do-it-yourself attic door insulation

Polyfoam is completely unsuitable for insulating the attic space. The thing is that it is not only flammable, but also emits a huge amount of toxic substances that can kill a person in a few minutes.

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How and with what to insulate an attic in a private house?

For comfortable stay in a private residential or country house it is very important how warm and comfortable it is.

Feeling warm, maintaining an acceptable comfortable temperature with minimal cost for heating is an important aspect of living in a house.

Insulating the walls of the house, many neglect the insulation of the attic.

Even if the attic is not residential, it is important to insulate the ceiling between the attic and the adjacent residential floor during the construction phase in order to reduce heat loss in residential premises.

But it is possible to make insulation in an already operated building to improve its properties. Today we will talk about how to properly insulate the attic of a private house, about the types of materials and methods of insulation.

Thermal insulation materials for attic insulation

How to insulate the attic? As a heater, you can use the following heat-insulating materials, which the construction market offers us in a wide range:

- mineral wool;
- expanded polystyrene plates (Styrofoam);
- polyurethane foam (PPU);
- bulk materials (expanded clay, slag, sawdust).

Mineral wool is the most popular material in private housing construction, widely used everywhere. Mineral wool, depending on the material from which it is made, is divided into three types: glass wool, stone wool and slag wool.

It is used for insulation of interfloor ceilings, enclosing structures and roofs. Mineral wool is a non-combustible material with low thermal conductivity and high sound insulation properties, resistant to aggressive environments.

Perfect for insulating a cold attic, as the load on the floor between the attic and the ceiling of the living room is minimized. But it is necessary to carry out work in protective clothing and a mask, so glass wool particles, getting on the skin, cause itching and leave small cuts.

Expanded polystyrene boards are also a traditional insulation. This is the most economical type of insulation, which is produced in the form of foamed granule boards. Rigid thermoplastic is 98% air and 2% polystyrene.

Expanded polystyrene boards almost do not absorb moisture, are resistant to fungus and decay; are lightweight and easy to handle and install. The disadvantage is that the foam is flammable and, when burned, releases toxic substances that are harmful to human health.

Polyurethane foam (PPU) belongs to the group of gas-filled plastics. Rigid polyurethane foam is widely used in construction as insulation and sound insulation, due to its low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability.

It is possible to produce polyurethane foam directly at the construction site; the spraying procedure is quite simple. There is a possibility of insulating surfaces of complex shapes, PPU is ideal for repairing old roofs and ceilings, but requires special equipment and qualifications of workers.

Most in a simple way insulation of the attic floor of a cold, unexploited attic is insulation with bulk materials, for example, expanded clay.

Expanded clay is poured over a layer of roofing material, the thickness of expanded clay depends on the structure of the floor and its thermal insulation properties, but, as a rule, it should be at least 15 cm.Thus, you can also insulate the exploited attic, in this case, a screed with a thickness of 50 mm is made over the expanded clay or a flooring is arranged from chipboard sheets and other materials.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation

If the height of the attic space does not allow over time to arrange a living or auxiliary room there, then it is enough to insulate only the ceiling. To do this, first of all, it is necessary to waterproof it, then lay the selected insulation between the floor beams, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid overlapping.

The joints of the film are closed with adhesive tape or special glue. On a reinforced concrete floor for laying mineral wool, it is necessary to perform a crate, the step of which is equal to the width of the insulating material (roll or slab), and the thickness of the bars is equal to the thickness of the insulation.

In the attic, in addition to the floor, it is necessary to insulate the roof from the inside. The work is carried out in the same way as for floor insulation.

Mineral wool insulation is laid between the rafters, vapor barrier is performed on top, then the crate is stuffed.

A moisture-resistant plasterboard, fiberboard sheets or lining are attached to the crate. Between the insulation and the finishing of the walls, there is air gap.

If foam or expanded polystyrene is used for roof insulation, then an air gap is not required.

Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect all structures. Replacement of any wooden elements is often required. Next, you need to treat wooden elements with an antiseptic. To produce assembly work on the device of hidden wiring.

In an unexploited attic, ventilation must be provided. They are usually made on roof gables. In the attic roof, air vents are also arranged for free air circulation under the cladding - in the ridge and overhangs.

Modern roll materials for insulation are often produced with a foil top layer, which serves as a vapor barrier. Plates are laid with a foil layer inside the room, fastened together with adhesive tape.

Insulation of the attic is not a luxury, but a necessity, since it will subsequently save energy costs and the costs will more than pay off.

The question of how to insulate the attic of a private house, in any case, arises before the zealous owner, whether it is the construction of a new house, or it is decided to minimize heat loss in his old home. Acquaintance with the basic methods of performing these works will serve as confirmation that it is quite feasible to insulate the attic space with your own hands. This will not only save the family budget, but also, if desired, turn the attic from a non-residential warehouse into a habitable space.

Several reasons to insulate the attic of a private house yourself

The attic room serves not only to create a slope from the ridge girder in order to drain water from the roof, but this room also performs other important functions, the main of which are:

creating an air gap between the living quarters and the roof, which acts as thermal insulation;
natural ventilation.

Insulation of the attic of your house has great importance and has the following goals:

Significant savings in heat resources and, accordingly, reduction in heating costs. For example, when heating with gas, fuel consumption can be reduced by 20%.
Prevention of condensation on the ceiling of living quarters due to the difference in temperature between cold air in the attic and warm air in the room.
Protection against moisture and rotting from the inside of the elements of the rafter system.

In addition to these useful benefits, keeping the attic warm can greatly enhance the functionality of this non-residential space. For example, it provides the opportunity to use it as a residential attic.

In a warmed, heated attic space, it can be equipped in modern style rest room, bedroom or study

Materials used for insulation

The roof and walls of the attic of a private house are more susceptible to freezing, therefore the insulation of this particular room must be carried out very efficiently.

The modern construction market provides the owner of a private house with a sufficient choice of material, depending on the goals that are planned to be achieved with insulation.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool, rolled or sheet, is one of the most demanded materials for insulation today. Depending on the production technology and raw materials used, there are several types of mineral wool.

Slag

The basis for the production of this insulation is the slag released from the blast furnace. Slag wool has the following characteristics:

But the use of slag wool for warming attics is limited by the following disadvantages:

increased residual acidity, which makes it unsuitable for insulating attics with metal structural elements;
ability to absorb moisture;
exposure to temperature influences, which reduces the service life.

The advantages of slag wool include its good soundproofing qualities and affordability. The average cost of the material is from 700 to 950 rubles per m 3.

Glass wool

The raw materials for the production of glass wool are sand, soda, limestone and other components. By the method of pulling silicon melts, with the addition of the specified raw materials, a heater is obtained with the following characteristics:

This material has sufficient strength and good sound insulation properties, but it is necessary to work with it, as well as choose the field of application, with some care.

Due to the fragility of the fibers, skin irritation is possible upon contact with glass wool, therefore it is necessary to work in protective equipment

In addition, microparticles of dust generated during operation have a negative effect on the eyes and respiratory system. In this regard, it is not recommended to insulate an attic or attic with a glass wool that is planned for use as a living room.

The low density of glass wool limits its use in places where a load is possible on the insulation, including when installing a cement screed.

Otherwise, this material is quite suitable for use and is widely used for insulating non-residential premises above the upper floor of a house, including because of its relatively low price. The average cost of fiberglass insulation from trusted manufacturers ranges from 850 rubles. per package, the area of \u200b\u200bwhich is 7-8 m 2, with a material thickness of 10 mm.

Basalt (stone) wool

This type of insulation is considered one of the most popular. Basalt wool fibers are less brittle, so working with it does not cause allergic reactions in a person. This insulation is preferable to other materials in terms of ecology and moisture resistance. Other characteristics look like this:

The question often arises whether it is necessary to carry out additional thermal insulation in the places where the insulation is mated with heating structures in the attic, for example, a chimney Basalt wool is an absolutely non-combustible material, so there is no need to perform these works.

Due to its good density, basalt wool does not shrink, which allows it to be used on the floor of the attic under a screed

The cost of this wool is somewhat more expensive than other mineral insulation materials. On average, you will have to pay 600-650 rubles for a package of 8 plates measuring 1200 × 600 × 50 mm.

Loose wool

A relatively new insulation material on the construction market is non-combustible bulk (blown) wool. This material is based on basalt wool made in the form of hydrophobized fibers.

Bulk wool has all the qualities inherent in basalt, but unlike conventional materials, it can be laid in hard-to-reach places of attic structures

The average price of blown wool for 1 m 3 is 950-1000 rubles.

Summing up on mineral insulation, it should be noted that insulation of the attic of a private house of any type of mineral wool is the cheapest option. Taking into account the materials included in the calculation for creating insulating cake, the final price of insulation with mineral wool will be in the range of 200-300 rubles per 1 m 2.

Polyurethane insulation

For insulation of geometrically complex areas and hard-to-reach places in the attic, it is recommended to use a sprayed universal polyurethane PU insulation. It comes in cylinders. Beneficial features this insulation:

lack of seams and cold bridges, which reduces additional heat loss;
creation of an airtight layer that prevents the formation of mold and mildew;
good adhesion to any building materials;
selection of the required insulation layer thickness;
absolute lack of response to temperature changes.

One balloon insulates the surface in two minutes within 2 minutes square meters, with a layer of 3 cm

The price of a PPU insulation cylinder, depending on the manufacturer, ranges from 500 rubles.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Insulation of the attic space with foam plates is a common method. This material has such positive qualities as:

light weight;
moisture resistance;
good thermal and vapor barrier properties;
resistance to impact external environment and long service life;
good sound insulation.

The weak side of the foam is its susceptibility to mechanical stress.

From a price point of view, expanded polystyrene sheet is an economically beneficial material. Using the popular PSB-S brand as an example, the cost of 1 m 3 of foam plastic plates, meter by meter, is 1,500 rubles.

Expanded clay

Insulation of the attic with bulk material is a long-tested, and simple, in terms of installation, method. The advantages of this material also include:

fire resistance;
good strength and long service life;
excellent sound and heat insulation;
environmental Safety.

The whole floor of the attic is evenly covered with expanded clay balls

The cost of a bag of expanded clay averages 1,500 rubles per m 3. This is not the cheapest insulation material.

Clay mixtures, moss

The most inexpensive heat insulators are undoubtedly mixtures of clay with sawdust or straw. Sawdust is often an unclaimed production waste, so you can find it for free.

The same category of free insulation includes swamp or forest moss. Despite the fact that warming with these materials is considered a "old-fashioned" method, their thermal protection coefficient is higher than that of many modern insulation materials, and environmental friendliness and even benefits, when it comes to clay, are indisputable.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation technology

Before starting work on the insulation of the attic, regardless of how it is planned to insulate the attic - with mineral wool or other materials, it is necessary to prepare for these works not only the structural elements of the room, but also arm the right tool and materials at hand. These include:

hammer;
screwdriver;
screwdrivers;
roulette;
construction knife;
long ruler or flat rail;
stapler;
wide spatula;
hydraulic pistol;
square;
level;
boards or sheets of plywood for trimming insulation on them.

When insulating the attic of a private house with mineral wool, it is also necessary to prepare personal protective equipment

The technology used to insulate the attic is selected taking into account the planned purpose of this room - heated housing in the attic or simply a warmed attic.

Unheated room

In an unheated attic, insulation is performed, both of the floor itself and the roof.

Insulation of the attic floor in a private house

The technology of laying insulation on the attic floor, basically, boils down to the following:

Laying of vapor barrier material on the subfloor with an overlap and on the walls;
Bonding of all joints and seams with a special sealing self-adhesive double-sided tape;
Laying the insulation directly, starting from the far edge of the roof slope;
Shelter of the insulation with a vapor barrier layer, with sealing tape of all seams.

In the course of trimming the material, a wooden board or plywood is placed under it.

The work is completed by laying the finished floor on the insulation

Roof insulation

After warming the floor, work is performed to protect the gables and roof slopes from the cold, using the following technology:

Fastening the waterproofing material to the rafters, starting from the ridge part, rolling the rolls across the inner surface of the roof.
Laying insulation between the rafters, with mandatory fixing.
Covering with a vapor barrier, starting work from the bottom of the roof, in order to prevent condensate from leaking onto the insulation.
Fixing the film to the rafters using rails.

Upon completion of work, all connecting seams and puncture points are glued with butyl rubber tape

Heated room

Considering the question of how and how to insulate a heated attic, it is necessary to immediately make a reservation that in this case there is no need to insulate the attic floor from the side of the living quarters, as well as in the construction of a vapor barrier layer on it. Only the roof is subject to insulation. The technique of these works looks similar to the insulation of the roof of a cold attic.

As a last piece of advice, it should be noted that the owner of the house alone will find it somewhat difficult to work with some types of insulation and finish the attic.

It is recommended to perform work on insulation of the attic in tandem with an assistant

Insulation of the attic floor of a house allows you to save more heat inside the room, and not spend it on heating a cold attic. It is good if it is used like utility room (technical attic) or as an attic, and if not? Then it makes no sense to spend resources on heating an unheated attic space.

That is why it is worth making the insulation of the cold attic floor using thermal insulation materials. Insulation can be done from the attic or from the side of the room (from the inside / outside). It is best to do this during the construction of the building, or immediately before finishing the room. But even during the operation of the house, there is no reason not to insulate ceiling slab from the attic.

The thickness of the attic floor insulation is standardized using SNiP II-3-79 "Construction heat engineering". This manual contains detailed recommendations on the selection and formula for calculating the resistance to heat transfer of various thermal insulation materials. The calculations take into account not only the type of material, but also the average annual temperature, the duration of the heating season, the wall material of the house.

The insulation technology of the attic floor depends on the selected material.

In this article we will look at the most popular heaters.

Mineral wool is a heater, the fibers of which are arranged in a certain way. Namely, this randomness leads to the formation of an air cushion between the fibers, which informs the insulation of its properties. However, this same feature of cotton wool increases the ability to absorb moisture. To avoid this, you need to know how to properly install mineral wool.

The benefits of mineral wool:

high density;
long service life;
fire safety;
ease of installation;
the use of mineral wool for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces does not lead to its caking, slipping and the formation, as a result, of cold bridges.

Among the disadvantages: the ability to absorb moisture.

There are three main ways of laying cotton wool: continuous, in grooves or in cells (see photo). The choice of method depends on what kind of load will subsequently fall on the floor. The most stable framework is obtained in the latter case.

First step

It starts with laying the vapor barrier film. The film will allow you to remove steam that rises from a warm living room to cold attic... To lay the film correctly, you need to carefully read the markings on it. An overlap of 100 mm must be observed.

If insulation is carried out according to wooden beams, then the film should bend around all protruding elements. Otherwise, the beams can rot.

At the junction of the film and walls or other protruding surfaces, you need to raise it to a height equal to the thickness of the insulation plus 50 mm. and glue it with tape or wrap it on an insulation plate.

Second phase

Insulation (cotton wool) is being laid. This is a fairly straightforward process. Plates or strips are easily cut with a construction knife to the required dimensions.

When laying the sheet, you need to make sure that there are no gaps or the mineral wool material is not strongly compressed. Both will lead to a decrease in the quality of insulation. Typical mistakes in the photo.

a) insufficient thickness of thermal insulation material;

b, c, d) the thickness of the attic floor insulation was incorrectly selected.

insulation with foil will increase the material's resistance to heat loss. The sheet is laid with the foil side down.

the insulation should not protrude beyond the beam. If such a situation arises, the beam needs to be lengthened wooden beams or an additional lath to the thickness of the insulation.

a thin insulation laid in two layers retains more heat than one thick one. In this case, the plates must be laid in a checkerboard pattern.

if there are speakers in the attic structural elements, for example, a chimney pipe, you need to raise the insulation to a height of 400-500 mm. and secure it.

Stage three

Waterproofing flooring is carried out if the attic is not supposed to be used, but rafter system not protected by a waterproofing film. If a roofing material separated from the attic by a foil, then you can proceed with the final stage.

Rough floor. It is laid on top of the insulation and serves as the basis for the final finishing.

The installation process is similar to the insulation of an attic floor with expanded polystyrene.

The advantages of these materials:

low cost;
simplicity of work;
waterproofness.

Among the disadvantages: flammability.

The technology of insulation of the attic floor with foam or expanded polystyrene

The process of installing rigid insulation based on is more than simple and can be done by hand. The work can be divided into two stages:

leveling the surface. To ensure high-quality insulation, there should be no significant irregularities on the base floor. It is possible to eliminate such drops by performing a screed with a sand-cement mortar.

the laying of the slabs is performed butt-joint or between the beams. The presence of timber increases the strength of the floor.

Tip: Seal any seams carefully, incl. joints with beams. Bypassing the obstacle, try to cut holes as accurately as possible. A homogeneous insulation layer retains heat better.

Rough coating

Polyfoam must be protected from destruction with a film in a non-residential attic. In a frequently used or residential attic, you need to somehow move, therefore, it is better to equip a subfloor from OSB or perform a sand-cement screed on top of foam or expanded polystyrene.

Sawdust - finely ground wood.

Benefits:

naturalness;
lack of toxic impurities;
light weight;
material availability.

The disadvantage is flammability.

Attic insulation technology with sawdust

before proceeding with the insulation with sawdust, they need to be prepared. Namely, mix cement and water with sawdust in a ratio of 10: 1: 1.

pour the attic floor with the finished mixture and level it. It should be noted that sawdust can be used as insulation without using a frame only in a non-residential attic. Otherwise, when walking on the floor, the sawdust will be compressed, and concrete screed collapse.

build a cellular structure from a bar. Pour a solution with sawdust into each cell. The advantage of this method is that a sub-floor can be laid over the timber. And the attic will be usable

Expanded clay is obtained by firing clay.

Benefits:

low thermal conductivity;
naturalness;
environmental friendliness;
ease;
availability.

The disadvantage is associated with the difficulty of lifting expanded clay to the height of the attic.

Expanded clay is usually used if it is necessary to insulate the attic floor on the slabs.

Attic insulation technology with expanded clay

The work is carried out in three stages:

the slab is inspected for cracks and cracks. They are sealed with a solution or covered with thick paper. The protruding elements do not create difficulties with filling expanded clay.

mount a crate from a bar. In the future, a rough floor will be laid on it.

loose insulation is poured onto the stove and leveled using a conventional rake. Layer thickness 250-300 mm. You can move on expanded clay without restrictions.

Advice: when backfilling expanded clay, it is better to combine granules of different sizes (diameters). In this way, voids can be avoided.

At the end, a rough floor is mounted or poured with a sand-cement screed.

Please note that the insulation of the attic wooden floor has some nuances:

the tree is subject to decay, which means that the steam rising up must pass freely. Improper installation of films or the use of non-breathable materials, such as roofing material, will lead to the destruction of the wood in the future.

using foil insulation, you need to place it with the foil down. Thus, the wood will be protected from water ingress and, at the same time, will not accumulate steam moisture.

"Correct" - use a superdiffusion membrane or vapor barrier film

"Wrong" - to lay a special film without taking into account the marking, or even ordinary film

The insulation scheme of the attic floor for different types of insulation is given below.

Conclusion

In this article, we stopped at the main stages and features of the insulation of the attic floors of a private house using heaters different types... We hope this information is helpful to you.

For a comfortable stay in a private residential or country house, it is very important how warm and cozy it is.

Feeling warm, maintaining an acceptable comfortable temperature with minimal heating costs is an important aspect of living in a house.

Insulating the walls of the house, many neglect the insulation of the attic.

Thermal insulation materials for attic insulation

How to insulate the attic? As a heater, you can use the following heat-insulating materials, which the construction market offers us in a wide range:

- mineral wool;
- expanded polystyrene plates (polystyrene);
- polyurethane foam (PPU);
- bulk materials (expanded clay, slag, sawdust).

Mineral wool - the most popular material in private housing construction, widely used everywhere. Mineral wool, depending on the material from which it is made, is divided into three types: glass wool, stone wool and slag wool.

Expanded polystyrene plates are also traditional insulation. This is the most economical type of insulation, which is produced in the form of foamed granule boards. Rigid thermoplastic is 98% air and 2% polystyrene.

Polyurethane foam (PPU) belongs to the group of gas-filled plastics. Rigid polyurethane foam is widely used in construction as insulation and sound insulation, due to its low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability.

The simplest way to insulate the attic floor of a cold, unexploited attic is insulation with bulk materials, for example, expanded clay .

Do-it-yourself attic insulation

In the attic, in addition to the floor, it is necessary to insulate the roof from the inside. The work is carried out in the same way as for floor insulation.

Mineral wool insulation is laid between the rafters, vapor barrier is performed on top, then the crate is stuffed.

A moisture-resistant plasterboard, fiberboard sheets or lining are attached to the crate. An air gap remains between the insulation and the finishing of the walls.

If foam or expanded polystyrene is used for roof insulation, then an air gap is not required.

Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect all structures... Replacement of any wooden elements is often required. Next, you need to treat wooden elements with an antiseptic. Carry out installation work on the installation of hidden wiring.

Insulation of the attic is not a luxury, but a necessity, since it will subsequently save energy costs and the costs will more than pay off.

Useful video

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof reduces heat costs, reduces heating costs and increases the comfort of living. Thermal insulation is carried out different waysusing materials of various composition and form. How do you choose the best option?

We will tell you which methods are most effective in constructing a system that prevents heat leakage through the ceiling. We will show you what to look for when choosing a heater. In our proposed article, you will find valuable recommendations for improving the thermal insulation characteristics of a house.

A cold roof is a budget and practical option for organizing the roof of a house for seasonal living. This design significantly saves construction costs, but does not contribute to heat retention.

It is desirable to solve the issue of thermal insulation of the ceiling zone at the stage of building a house. However, insulation is often resorted to in the operated premises.

The warm air of the heated room rises up and, in contact with the cold ceiling, quickly cools. Heat losses through the non-insulated roof and ceiling reach 25-40%

Ceiling insulation solves a number of tasks:

Reduces the intensity of cooling the heated air, helping to save heating costs for the home.
Enhances indoor sound insulation by dampening hum from the wind or noise from heavy rain.
In summer, the insulation material helps to keep the room cool, not letting in the heated air from the outside.

Ceiling insulation increases the comfort of a private house and optimizes the indoor microclimate. Subject to the installation technology, thermal insulation excludes the appearance of condensation on structural elements.

Floor insulation methods

Pondering how correctly under a cold roof, first of all, it is necessary to decide on the method of thermal insulation.

There are two radically different approaches:

insulation from the attic side;
installation of thermal insulation material from inside the room.

The first method is more preferable for a number of reasons. So, the installation technology itself is greatly simplified - there is no need to build a suspension frame or fix the insulation with glue to the ceiling.

External insulation eliminates costly repairs inside the room and does not reduce the height of the ceilings. The latter is especially true if the distance to the ceiling in rooms does not exceed 2.5 m.

Also, with this approach, the risks of condensation are minimized. The same cannot be said about thermal insulation from the inside of the room.

If you choose the wrong insulation and do not exclude the contact of warm air with a cold stove, then water vapor from the room will accumulate - this is fraught with the appearance of dampness, fungus and the gradual destruction of the floor.

However, in some situations, internal ceiling insulation is a necessary measure, for example:

lack of access to the attic;
reconstruction of an old building with a ready-made attic floor;
thermal insulation of the garage located in the basement.

If necessary internal insulation installation technology should be followed to prevent condensation inside the building. It is important to comply with two requirements: block the flow of water vapor and use insulation of sufficient thickness.

Review of the best insulation for the ceiling

The choice of the installation method also determines the list of possible options for heat insulators. When insulating from the attic, the range of materials is much larger - from natural compounds to technologically advanced modern solutions. Installation from inside the room imposes a number of restrictions.

Regardless of the placement method, it must have a low thermal conductivity. The coefficient determines the ability of an insulator to transfer energy from heated elements to cold ones. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better material keeps warm.

An important parameter of choice is moisture resistance. The ability of the material to maintain its physical characteristics in a humid environment is especially important when insulating from the attic side, when the roofing is worn out enough

Additional requirements include:

durability;
environmental friendliness and safety for humans;
low flammability - it is better to use non-combustible insulators, compositions with minimal smoke generation;
resistance to rodents - relevant for materials placed in the attic.

It is also important to take into account the vapor permeability index of the insulation. But there are nuances here. When insulating a concrete slab from the attic side, a material that allows steam to pass through should be used. For installation from inside the room, on the contrary, - a vapor-proof insulation.

Type # 1 - mineral wool insulation

The popular thermal insulator maintains its leadership position due to its affordability, ease of installation and good thermal efficiency.

For installation under cold roof use mineral wool with a synthetic binder, basalt insulation and glass wool. The latter option provides maximum thermal efficiency. Thermal conductivity of glass wool - 0.044 W / (m ° C).

However, it should be used with caution - the particles irritate the skin and mucous membranes. Glass wool is not suitable for indoor use. Basalt insulation is devoid of these disadvantages. Additional advantages of the material: fire safety and plasticity.

Common disadvantages of mineral wool materials:

water absorption;
low strength;
tendency to shrinkage;
the content of unsafe components - abrasive particles or formaldehyde resins.

To place layers of mineral wool, you will need to install wooden logs; it is advisable to waterproof the insulation itself from above.

Type # 2 - Bulk Cellulose Insulator

Bulk material made from waste paper and cellulose. To protect against decay and fire, synthetic components are added to ecowool.

The material is used with an external method of insulation - in the attic. Ecowool is sprayed dry over the floor or mixed with glue. Special equipment is required for work

The characteristics of cellulose insulation and the technology of its application have endowed the modern method of thermal insulation with a number of advantages:

good thermal efficiency - a thermal conductivity of about 0.038 W / (m ° C);
the material fills all voids and cracks, forming a solid canvas - cold bridges are not formed;
due to its light weight, ecowool of any thickness can be laid;
durability of service and preservation of the original properties;
environmental friendliness - ecowool does not emit toxic fumes;
low flammability and the ability to self-extinguish;
vapor permeability.

Despite the mass of dignity, ecowool has not gained much popularity. The main reasons for the low demand: high cost, inability to install with your own hands.

In addition, ecowool is prone to shrinkage and crushing - it is advisable to equip a rigid support from above for movement in the attic.

Type # 3 - slab polymer types

This group of heaters includes: foam and (EPS). Their thermal efficiency exceeds the performance of mineral wool insulation. The leader is EPPS, the thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.038 W / m ° С.

Expanded polystyrene surpasses polystyrene in terms of strength, rigidity and fire safety. However, in the event of a fire, EPS boards also emit toxic fumes.

Polyfoam is cheaper than expanded polystyrene. Among the general advantages are:

water resistance;
low biological activity;
wide range of geometric dimensions and thicknesses.

Both materials are vapor-tight, so they are used to insulate concrete and brick surfaces.

The material is suitable for. Penofol is placed with the foil side inside the room - the canvas not only retains heat, but also partially reflects it back.

As independent material foamed polyethylene is advisable to use in areas with a mild climate. In regions with severe winters, a combination of penofol and penoplex shows a good effect.

Type # 4 - bulk heat insulator

Lightweight porous material in the form of rounded granules. In the composition - fired clay. The natural origin of the insulation explains its environmental friendliness.

Additional advantages of expanded clay:

fire resistance;
providing a good degree of sound insulation;
durability;
chemical inertness;
not of interest to rodents;
the insulation does not give dust.

The thermal efficiency of expanded clay depends on the density of the embankment, the size of the granules.

To ensure the preservation of heat, it will be necessary to use an embankment with a thickness of 20 cm or more, in cold regions the layer is increased to 40-50 cm. This leads to an increase in the cost of the insulation procedure and significantly increases the load on the floor.

Type # 5 - liquid polyurethane

Polyurethane foam is applied to the surface under pressure; a special technique is used for spraying. Polyurethane foam - perfect solution for attic floors with difficult terrain and thermal insulation of hard-to-reach places.

The main advantages of foam ceiling insulation:

the formation of a seamless sealed coating;
high adhesion to materials - polyurethane foam fills all cracks and voids;
low water absorption;
excellent thermal efficiency due to the porous structure of the hardened foam - thermal conductivity of about 0.027 W / m ° C;
preservation of qualities in humid conditions;
the possibility of multilayer spraying - relevant for cold regions;
providing acoustic insulation;
durability of the coating - service life of about 25 years;
speed of processing;
resistance to microorganisms;
lightness of the material - does not put pressure on the overlap.

Polyurethane foam is difficult to ignite, insulation does not spread combustion.

Spray-on insulation is considered one of the best solutions for the treatment of attic floors. The limited use of polyurethane foam is due to the high cost of the method

The total cost includes the price of the insulation itself and the cost of attracting craftsmen with equipment. Spraying foam must not be carried out if the air temperature in the attic is below +10 ° C.

View # 6 - natural materials

The main advantages of traditional methods: affordable cost and environmental friendliness. The use and effectiveness of natural materials such as sawdust and algae are different.

Features of insulation with sawdust

Bulk wood waste is often mixed with shavings and distributed over the ceiling from the attic side.

Warming methods:

Dry backfill... Wooden logs are mounted on the floor, the cells are filled with sawdust. The material shrinks over time and requires periodic renewal.
Wet method... Sawdust, cement and water are combined in a ratio of 10: 2: 1.5, respectively. This thermal layer is more durable.

Weaknesses of sawdust: flammability, fear of rodents and water absorption.

Characteristics and varieties of algae

In coastal areas, algae are commonly used, the second name for insulation is damask. The material is distinguished by its naturalness, good thermal insulation characteristics. Rodents do not start in algae, and the insulation itself is not afraid of moisture and does not rot.

There are three types of damask:

by weight - bales or loose bales collected from dried pressed seaweed;
mats in nets - canvases 10 cm thick, tied with synthetic thread for ease of installation;
dense slabs - the composition contains up to 85% of algae, the rest is a binder, for example, silicone.

In terms of thermal efficiency, kamka is significantly inferior to many heaters, the heat capacity coefficient is 0.087 W / (m ° C).

Calculation of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

The effectiveness of thermal insulation depends on the accuracy of determining the thickness of the insulation, which is a part. In addition, the indicator allows you to calculate the loads imposed on the ceiling structure. When calculating, the values \u200b\u200bof the permissible weight and the required thermal protection are compared.

The thickness of the insulation is determined by the formula

q \u003d R * k,

q - thickness of heat-insulating material, m;
R - thermal resistance, m 2 ° C / W;
k - coefficient of thermal conductivity of the insulation, W / (m ° C).

The value of R is determined from tabular data - the indicator is calculated for each region, taking into account the characteristics of the climate.

For example, the standardized thermal resistance of floors for Nizhny Novgorod is 4.26 m2 ° C / W. If you use Penoplex for insulation of the ceiling, then you will need a layer of thermal insulation 12 cm thick

For the calculation, it is enough to multiply the indicators 4.26 and 0.038. The last value is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of extruded polystyrene foam. The weight of the ceiling is calculated based on the volume of the insulation and its density. The first indicator is determined by the product of the area and the thickness of the thermal insulation, the second is the tabular value.

The minimum load on the floor is provided by polyurethane foam and ecowool, their density is in the range of 25-60 kg / cu. m. One of the heaviest heaters is expanded clay - 180-330 kg / cu. m.

Features of mounting different materials

The tactics of action depend on the chosen material and the place of its placement - from inside the room or from the side of the attic.

Laying mineral wool

Installation of insulation is carried out along the attic floor.

When making a thermal insulation cake, it is important to withstand two conditions:

provide protection of mineral wool from water vapor coming from inside a warm room;
equip ventilation of the outer surface to weather moisture from the insulation.

Mineral wool slabs are placed between the beams or slats of the prepared sheathing. Installation on the floor surface is possible.

Before starting work, it is necessary to check the boards for rot, treat the wooden elements with an antiseptic. Make sure the roof is not leaking

The surface is cleaned of debris, if necessary, a wooden frame is erected.

Further actions:

Install vapor barrier membrane.
Roll out rolls or place mats between beams.
Mount wooden base, maintaining the ventilation gap between the insulation and the hard floor.

The last step can be skipped. However, it will not be possible to walk or store things in the attic, since the mineral wool cannot be pressed.

Sheathing from the inside with expanded polystyrene

This insulation option is suitable for concrete ceiling... Plates of expanded polystyrene are fixed to the surface with glue and fixed with "fungi".

Before installing the insulation, the ceiling is treated with an antifungal compound and a primer.

The procedure for fixing expanded polystyrene plates:

Apply glue to the insulation, attach and press it to the ceiling.
Cover the entire area with slabs, leaving no gaps between the elements.
Drill holes for fasteners with a puncher.
Kill the fungi.
Foam joints and gaps between boards.
Cut off the remaining foam, fix the reinforcing mesh with adhesive.
Prime and plaster the surface.

After the layer has dried, clean the ceiling and apply a finishing decorative coating.

Backfilling the attic with expanded clay

The minimum layer of bulk insulation is 20 cm. To adjust the height of the backfill, it is necessary to prepare a beacon - make the desired mark on the piece of reinforcement, fixing a piece of electrical tape.

If a wooden base is insulated with expanded clay, then the floor must first be covered with waterproofing with an approach to the walls. Plastic wrap will do

On concrete base there is no need to lay the hydro-barrier.

Sequence of work:

Pour expanded clay and distribute the granules evenly.
Check the thickness of the insulation layer. Its height should be 3-4 cm below the level of the flooring. If this norm is neglected, then when walking in the attic, the sound of friction of granules will be heard.
Spread a layer of vapor barrier membrane, glue the joints of the canvases with tape.
Mount a rigid base. Boards, fiberboard or OSB panels will do.

A floor on top of expanded clay makes it easier to move around the attic and increases the effectiveness of the thermal insulation cake.

Application of sprayed insulation

It will not be possible to perform the work on your own, since spraying will require expensive equipment - a high-pressure apparatus. In addition, technical skills are required to evenly distribute the polyurethane foam.

It is better to entrust the work to a specialized company and conclude an agreement with them for the provision of services. At the appointed time, a brigade arrives, extends a hose with a pistol into the house

Mount wooden logs on the attic floor. They will be needed for the subsequent fastening of the flooring.
Fill the device with components in the required proportions.
Set the gun to minimum foam force.
Apply an even layer of polyurethane foam between the logs.
Wait for the composition to dry. If the thickness of one layer is not enough, then the processing must be repeated.
Smooth the hardened coating by cutting off the excess to the lag level.
Mount a rigid base on the boards.

To insulate a small ceiling with your own hands, you can use a disposable foam spraying kit.

The set includes everything you need: cylinders with components for the preparation of foam insulation, a spray gun, hoses, personal protective equipment

Assembly and preparation takes a couple of minutes, no power supplies are needed - the device works autonomously.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Floor insulation technology with mineral wool:

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a private house with sawdust:

Ceiling insulation with a cold roof is one of the conditions for a comfortable and economical operation of a house. When arranging a heat-insulating layer, it is important to choose the right material. The method of installation is important, as well as the mandatory formation of a reliable cutoff of condensate.

We insulate the cold attic. Stone wool installation technology. Do-it-yourself attic insulation in a private house: technology Insulation in an attic in a private house is cheap

Floor insulation

Preparation of materials

Floor preparation

Floor insulation

Roof insulation

Preparation of materials

Roof preparation

Roof insulation

Warming of gables

Output

Output

How to inexpensively insulate an attic in a private house with your own hands

Inexpensive materials for insulation

Expanded clay

Sawdust

How and with what to insulate an attic in a private house?

Thermal insulation materials for attic insulation

Do-it-yourself attic insulation

Several reasons to insulate the attic of a private house yourself

Materials used for insulation

Mineral wool

Slag

Glass wool

Basalt (stone) wool

Loose wool

Polyurethane insulation

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Expanded clay

Clay mixtures, moss

Do-it-yourself attic insulation technology

Unheated room

Insulation of the attic floor in a private house

Roof insulation

Heated room

The benefits of mineral wool:

First step

Second phase

Stage three

The technology of insulation of the attic floor with foam or expanded polystyrene

Attic insulation technology with sawdust

Attic insulation technology with expanded clay

Please note that the insulation of the attic wooden floor has some nuances:

Conclusion

Thermal insulation materials for attic insulation

Do-it-yourself attic insulation

Floor insulation methods

Review of the best insulation for the ceiling

Type # 1 - mineral wool insulation

Type # 2 - Bulk Cellulose Insulator

Type # 3 - slab polymer types

Type # 4 - bulk heat insulator

Type # 5 - liquid polyurethane

View # 6 - natural materials

Features of insulation with sawdust

Characteristics and varieties of algae

Calculation of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

Features of mounting different materials

Laying mineral wool

Sheathing from the inside with expanded polystyrene

Backfilling the attic with expanded clay

Application of sprayed insulation

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

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