This article will be very useful for those who are somewhat fond of wood carving or who just want to start working with woodworking. As you know, not only skills play a big role in getting the desired result, but also what you work, in this case, a tool. Without a good tool, the result cannot be achieved, so it is in this article that I will tell you how the author made a jamb knife with his own hands. Why do it yourself, it's all due to the fact that the quality of the tool is an important factor, which at the moment costs a lot of money, and even more so if all the necessary materials are available, this knife can be made in a matter of minutes no worse than the factory one. As in all homemade products, before creating it, you need to decide on necessary materials and tools.

To do homemade jamb knife it is necessary:
* A piece of wood, in this case a leg from an unnecessary chair for the handle of a future knife
* Milling cutter for metal for cutting part
* A sheet of paper or cardboard to create a template
* Epoxy resin

Of the tools you will need:
* Hacksaw
* A couple of chisels with a straight and semicircular profile
* LBM or as the Bulgarian say
* Vise for clamping
* Electric drill

After all materials and tools are available, you can start manufacturing.

Step one.
The first step, as in many other homemade products and inventions, is to make a template according to which the original part will be made. The advantage of templates is that they are reusable, and when applied precisely, you can get completely identical parts. It will be easier to make a template from a flexible material, such as cardboard. The shape of the future handle and the main part of the knife, also referred to as cutting, is cut out of cardboard based on your preferences. The version that the author made is shown in the photo. The idea is good, so if you don't want to waste time thinking about the template, you can do something similar. The shape of the cutting part was adopted in the form of a scythe, so that grooves and notches could be cut with its tip.

Step two.
Having the templates on hand, we proceed to cutting out future parts on them, namely the handle and the knife blade itself. We apply templates to a piece of wood and metal, and then cut it out.

We cut out the wooden part with a hacksaw, but with the metal one we will have to tinker a little.
We will make the cutting part from an already unnecessary cutter, which needs to be clamped and then cut out the part according to the template using a grinder. When working with the grinder, be careful and remember to wear glasses.

The wooden handle requires processing, so it needs to be sanded and the wood is processed. The shape of the handle should fit your hand, and on its surface have smooth curves for your fingers, which will be very comfortable when using. When the shape of the handle has achieved the desired result, then it is time to start finishing sanding, with the help of which the handle will have sufficient smoothness and streamlining of the shape.

Step three.
Now all the parts need to be connected, but for this you need to make a hole in the handle. This can be done with an electric drill, the hole should be slightly more size the fixing part of the knife.

Step four.
It's time to assemble the knife, namely to attach the knife blade and the handle. This is done quite easily and simply, insert the cutting part into the previously made hole on the handle and fix both parts using epoxy resin. After this procedure, the knife must be left to lie down in a warm place for a day, which will allow the epoxy to completely solidify.

Step five.
The last final step will be to cover the surface of the handle with a protective layer, namely varnish, you can also saturate the handle with a layer of oil, which will be absorbed into the pores of the wood and prevent it from deteriorating.

In this article I will tell you how and from what to make a good oblique knife (jamb knife) with your own hands. Such a knife is used for wood carving, for working with leather or other thin sheet materials.

It is known that the quality of a knife is determined by the quality of its blade. And the quality of the blade, respectively, the steel from which it is made. But where is home master take high-grade steel, hard, well-holding sharpening ?! And the answer is simple - you just need to look around.

Option one Jamb knife from a construction nail-dowel ... Just a great steel with hardness and ductility (of course, because they are hammered into concrete and do not break at the same time).

We hammer a dowel into the end of the workpiece under the handle (a piece of a shovel handle about 12-25 cm long is perfect).

On an emery or a grinder's scraping disc, grind the hat from the sides and at an angle of 30-45 degrees to make a blade. Using a knife, a file of sanding paper, we cut out the handle under the arm.

Due to the fact that the blade is rather narrow, it is better to use it as a knife for carving wood, although there is also another use for such a blade.

Or an option for finer work with a pen that you can hold like a writing pen

Option two A jamb knife from a cloth from a hacksaw for metal. More precisely, a piece of it, of which there will be a huge amount in any workshop.

The disadvantages of knives made from a hacksaw blade include fragility in the transverse direction (the hardened blade breaks quite easily under the wrong load), in addition, the process of making a knife is more laborious. But the blade turns out to be wider, which means more functional than a dowel knife.

We sharpen the canvas at an angle of 60 degrees. Chamfering can be done both on both sides and on one side. A jamb knife with one-sided sharpening, by the way, is good for.

The handle can be made in two versions - simple and fast, as well as beautiful, convenient, but complex. Simple and quick - just wrap a thick layer of electrical tape around the handle - not very nice, but cheap and cheerful. And it's not a pity to break.

The second option is a wooden handle. Made of two halves. You need to take either two planed planks well adjacent to each other, or carefully split one (but only evenly). In one of the blanks, a groove for the blade is cut out with a chisel or simply with a knife, they are coated with glue, folded together and fixed (with clamps, you can wrap it tightly with a rope).

In the example shown in the photo, because the planks were far from perfect and the glue connection was not very strong, I riveted them with three rivets made of aluminum wire - the third one is not visible in the photo - it is not through and goes through a hole in the canvas.

How to make wood carving knives?

On one of the forums I came across quite intelligible material devoted to the manufacture of knives for carving, which is given below without any changes. I hope that the author of the note Serjant and the administration of this forum will not make a claim.

"Hello guys, it's me, Serjant, I'm writing the current from Mukhoboy's computer, because the ugly admin cut off my Internet.

So:. Let's start.

The first knife

It is called "Bogorodsky knife" (Fig. 1). Designed for both rough and fine woodworking. For rough work, it means giving the workpiece the desired shape. Cut roughly so that the silhouette is guessed. For example, cutting out a spoon. For a thin one, for example, embed fingers on a small wooden toy, cut out the face of an animal, etc. Speaking of toys. This knife, got its name from the village of Bogorodskoye, Moscow region, where they cut, for several centuries famous all over the world wooden toy... As can be seen from the figure (Fig. 1), the knife is simple in shape, and also simple in manufacture.You will need:
1. A piece of steel. Ideal option, among woodcarvers, the blade of a power saw is considered (saw rails with this saw and similar pieces of iron). Steel grade does not play a special role. What is P6, what is P9, what is P6M5, or quite cunning P3AM3F2, is not particularly important. This is all great stuff. These canvases are usually 1.8: 2.3 mm thick. We are looking for the right size piece of canvas. You can buy a canvas in any construction market.
2. Wood. Or rather, a couple of plates of linden or birch. Smoothly planed and dry. Why linden or birch? This wood is very good at absorbing sweat from the hand that comes in during the woodcarving process. But still linden is preferable, although it is inferior to birch in fur. properties.
3. PVA glue or any other hardening glue for wood. You can and epoxy resin... Glue "Moment" and the like are not suitable, they do not hold the glued seam.We sharpen the blade. We choose the sizes of the blade and shank because we will do it with this knife. If we roughly plan the wood, then we make the blade more, 70-90 mm, more is possible, but not necessary. If delicate work, then less, 30-60 mm. Shank:. How much we do not mind, we leave so much. On the shank, with the help of a sharpener or grinder, we make a bunch of "teeth", recesses, or whatever else to call them there. This will serve as a good fastener in the wood. We sharpen the blade razor sharpener the blade will contribute to the softness of the cut, and the blade will not bind in the wood. (see fig. 1). We sharpen the blade and correct it to the state of shaving the hair (we use our own carcass)

After sharpening, we wrap the blade with paper and electrical tape, so as not to cut yourself when installing and processing the handle.
We apply a shank to one of the wooden plates and draw a pencil around the shank. We hollow out a groove in the plate, with a depth equal to the thickness of the blade. The blade, after being inserted into a wooden plate, should not protrude, it may even need to be slightly lower than the plane of the tree by 0.1..0.2 mm. No need to worry, the glue will take over this gap. In principle, you should get what is shown in Fig. 2. On the planes of the wood to be glued with the help of a sharp tip of a knife, we apply a grid for better penetration of the glue. We grease it with glue, insert the blade into the groove, and press the second plate. We tighten this entire structure with clamps or clamp it in a vice until the glue is completely dry. For PVA, this is usually a day.

When the glue dries, we give the handle an oval shape in cross section. I deliberately do not give any section sizes, everyone can choose for their own hand, how comfortable it will be to hold, and rightly so. We carefully grind the handle, but without fanaticism, grind it to the state "like a cat:" is not necessary. Soak with oil or some other nasty thing like cyanoacrylate is also not necessary, let the tree feed the sweat from the hand.

Sometimes it is useful (but not necessary) on the handle, closer to the blade (5 mm to retreat from the edge of the handle), file a narrow groove with a file, and wrap with wire or thick HB thread and saturate with glue. Winding is not wide 10: 15 mm wide, so that the winding and the handle are flush. Such a strengthening of the structure is necessary for power work or when repairing a knife, when it is lazy to make a new handle.

It is useful to have several Bogorodsky knives, different sizes and with different sharpening angles. Personally, I have 5 of them.

Jamb knife

The name comes from the fact that the knife has a beveled blade.

Well, that's not the point:

The knife is used to cut material, cut veneer, cut contours, different types threads, such as flat-relief geometric threads, Kudrinsky, etc.

This knife is also called a boot knife, but, as far as I could figure out, a boot knife is distinguished by one-sided (chisel) sharpening of the blade. Although not always. Commonth type and dimensions are shown in Fig. 3

The knife making technology is exactly the same as that of the Bogorodsky knife. The only difference is that the handle of the knife is adjusted in such a way that it is convenient to hold the knife with a reverse grip, with the blade towards you. This is the basic position of the knife in the hand.

The number of cutter knives is also not regulated by any rules or traditions. I have 10 of them all different. "

You can enlarge the images by clicking on them with the mouse or open the following links:
Bogorodsky knife
knife - joint
Source http://talks.guns.ru/forummessage/5/61314.html

The work of the master is afraid, but no matter what the golden hands are, and in some cases it is difficult to do without tools. So it is in woodcarving without good, convenient tool it is difficult to get the desired result. Nowadays, you can buy everything, including the most best tool, but there is a small snag - finances (not everyone has the opportunity to buy) I suggest making a jamb knife with your own hands.

To make a do-it-yourself jamb knife you need:
- small bar wood, I personally, for this purpose used a wooden leg from an old chair (this will be the handle for a knife)
- milling cutter;
- pencil and sheet of paper;
- epoxy.

Tools:
- saw on wood (hacksaw);
- several chisels and a semicircular and flat profile;
- grinder;
- vice;
- electric drill.

Making a jamb knife with your own hands step by step

Step 1
Initially, we will make a template according to which we will make a jamb knife. It is best to use cardboard to make the template. We make the shape of the handle and the main cutting part of the knife as needed, depending on the needs, what exactly you will do with this knife and how it will be convenient for you. You can use a photo template if you like. With this shape of the cutting part, it will be convenient for you to cut notches and grooves.

Step 2
The template is ready, let's start cutting the handle and knife blade.
We cut out the wooden handle with a hacksaw, and cut out the blade with a grinder according to the template from the old cutter, after holding it tightly beforehand. Remember to stick to safety rules.

After the handle is cut out, it must be properly sanded. For convenience, it is best to make the shape of the handle along the lice hand with smoothly passing bends for the fingers.

Step 3
All elements of the knife must be connected into a single whole, therefore, using an electric drill, we make a hole in the handle. Making it a little larger than the fixing part.

Step 4
We attach the knife blade to wooden handle... There is nothing complicated about this, you just need to insert the blade into the hole in the handle, using epoxy resin to fix it. Then leave the knife in a warm place for a while so that the resin hardens properly.

Step 5
Cover the handle with oil, it will saturate the pores, for a long time it will not let the wood deteriorate and will beautifully highlight the texture. You can varnish the handle if you like. As they say: the owner is a master.
The knife blade needs to be sharpened well.
That's all the jamb knife made with your hands is ready. I hope it will serve you for a long time.

Sculptural composition, work of A.V. Novoselov

To perform all types of carving, various elements of home decoration, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts, a special tool is needed.

Carving tools can be distinguished as main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Various electrified household tools and appliances based on an electric motor are also widely used, which the master can make himself.

All tools must be of excellent quality so that you can easily carry out carving work of any complexity.

The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that the tree is cut like "oil", it should be kept in perfect condition.

A blunt tool crumbles, crumples, does not cut wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough, careless. This spoils the mood and often discourages the desire to finish the job. It is easy and pleasant to work with a sharp instrument, the drawing is clean, accurate, beautiful. By the finished product, you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also with what and how he performed the work.

Cutting tool

Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from the Bogorodsk sculpture carving.

Bogorodsky knife

Jamb knife (angle of sharpening of chamfers 20 °, bevel angle 35 0; 45 °; 60 °), used for flat, flat, flat-relief, embossed, openwork carving.

Jamb knife

Cutter knife - used as an auxiliary tool for various types of thread.

Cutter knife

Straight chisels (sharpening angle 18-20 °); used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.

Chisel straight

Semicircular chisels - the main tool used to perform all types of wood carving. There are: - sloping (R˃H), medium (R \u003d H), steep (R˂H).

Half-round chisels

Sameski - cranberries these are chisels with a curved blade that allows, when carving, not to touch the work surface with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel, cranberry-corner. cranberry-semicircular chisel.

Cranberry chisels

Tseraziki chisels resemble steep semicircular chisels. Their web width is 2 ... 3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the cross-section of which corresponds to the profile of the instrument.

Tserazik chisel

Chisels - corners or geismuses. (the angle between the cutting edges is 50-70 °). They are used for sampling a V-shaped groove, used for making contour thread elements.

Corner chisel or geismus

Shtikhel. The graders always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used to select various veins in the manufacture of engravings.

Shtikhel

Klepiki. Rivets come in a variety of sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: a sword, a leaf and a nail. The first two are called so: rivet sword and rivet leaf.

They are used in flat-relief and volumetric thread to clean the background in hard-to-reach places.

Klepik sword, klepik leaf

Chisel-marigold. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the form of sharpening. It resembles a fingernail. The purpose of the marigolds is stripping in hard-to-reach places and performing stapled thread elements.

Chisel-marigold

Spooners (spoon knives). The best scooper is a sharpened ring with a bar welded to it. Spoons are needed to remove a large volume of material in recesses and to process the inner walls when making dishes.

Spooners

Punches and embossings - these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for embossing backgrounds in flat-relief and relief carvings.

The cutting tool is made of tool steels:

1-Carbonaceous (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened are determined by a white beam of sparks with separate asterisks.

2-Alloyed (ХВ5; Х12; Ч12М), when sharpened, they give yellow or orange sparks.

3-High speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened give dark red sparks.

Tool sharpening and dressing

Of great importance for making high-quality wood carving is correct sharpening tool.

Tool sharpening consists of two stages:

1- chamfering;

2- edits.

1. Chamfering. You can chamfer with an electric grinder (see fig.), A hand-powered grinder, or manually with an abrasive bar.

Electric grinder for sharpening and dressing the tool: a - a mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, dressing and polishing the tool: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device ;: 1 - horizontal movement lock; 2 - movable platform for choosing the sharpening angle; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; c - tool for dressing and polishing (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber discs with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.

The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.

Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; c - on the corner chisels: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.

Chisel position when sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and flat; 3 - chisel - corner;

When sharpening it is necessary:

Maintain the specified taper angle;

Maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be even without traces of sticking;

Blurring of the instrument is not allowed (prevent from periodic wetting of the instrument in water).

2. Edit. Editing a tool is understood as increasing the cleanliness of the blade sharpening, deburring, and improving the sharpening. To edit the tool, use microcorundum donkeys (Fig.), Skins, leather.

Jamb sharpening: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -

chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;

b - hand position during work;

For semicircular incisors, a straightening board is made of linden, cuts on its surface are transverse grooves for incisors of different sizes (Fig.).

Straightening boards and belts

1 - a board with a set of profile bars and donuts;

2 - straightening board with chisel profiles;

3 - leather or canvas strap for straightening.

Before straightening, GOI paste is rubbed into the straightening board. The inner surface of the semicircular incisors is ruled with round wooden rods wrapped with fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the tool on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.

A properly sharpened tool should have a specified angle of sharpness, blade shape, and no burrs.

When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.

Literature:

1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.

House carving-M .: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.

2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.

Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Yekaterinburg: Ural. state forestry engineering. un-t. 2012.