Instructions on how to make an ax with your own hands - a step-by-step description of how to create and assemble. Ax making: from a wooden toy to a real tool What an ax can be made of

The ax is such a simple yet useful tool that most DIYers have in their arsenal. It is applicable both in summer cottages and in many professional works, where one cannot do without good tools. If you treat the ax with care and do not forget to prepare it correctly, then the result of the work will certainly please and will not cause disappointment. Today we will figure out how to make this tool with our own hands.

Features of a homemade ax

The ax is a simple and common tool that is difficult to surprise anyone. However, thanks to him, you can cope with many complex jobs and get an excellent result in the end. On sale you can find both simple options for axes, and more interesting and original ones, for example, with decorative inclusions. If you don't want to spend money on a ready-made version, or you couldn't find a suitable one among those, you can do it yourself.

Many home craftsmen not finding on sale the right tool, undertake to do it with their own hands.Such work cannot be called impossible or super difficult, but even here it is very important to follow all the rules in order to get a good result. It should be borne in mind that there are several types of axes that you can build on your own.

For example, there are special cleavers that are very popular today:

• mechanical;
• with electric drive.

Of course, the mechanical version is the simplest and easiest to implement. It is equipped with a manual drive. Making such a model with your own hands is not difficult. Blueprints mechanical tools are quite simple and straightforward, and the principle of their work is in simple mechanical manipulations. This device consists of the following basic elements:

• metal wedge;
• mechanism on a spring.

Working with such a tool, the master spends a minimum of effort and time, especially when comparing this cleaver with a standard simple ax. As for an even more advanced electric cleaver, there is one main part in it, which, after activating the engine, begins its movement - it constantly rotates. The master only needs to add a new batch of firewood for splitting.

You should also be aware of other options for axes that many craftsmen can make on their own.

• Joiner. This tool is lightweight and lightweight, and has a sharpened blade. It is used in cases when you need the most accurate and accurate work with wood.
• Taiga.This ax can also be made by hand. It is perfect for felling trees, removing knots and bark.
• Tsalda.This tool is made to clean the area from bushes.
• Kitchen.Such tools are made exclusively for cutting bones. A kitchen ax is a small device with a short handle and a large blade.
• Lumberjack.Suitable only for cutting down trees. Made from a long ax and a wide, sharpened blade. It also has other names, for example, felling.

The most popular and practical are the taiga types of axes. They are distinguished by the following features:

• little weight;
• small area of \u200b\u200bthe piercing area;
• unusual sharpening of the blade (the edge on the back is several times smaller and thinner than the front).

Certain tree species are ideal for making a house ax. It must be borne in mind that materials suitable for such purposes can easily withstand the significant vibration loads that occur at the time of the tool impact.

Any homemade ax is also distinguished by the fact that it is ideal for the master who works with it. Making this tool with your own hands, there is an opportunity to adjust it for yourself, for your hand. The result is the most convenient, practical and easy-to-use devices.

Tools and materials

Ease of use of the ax largely depends on the correct manufacture of its handle. One of the following types of wood is ideal for this part:

• maple;
• ash;
• birch tree.

You definitely need to know what steel the piercing component of the future instrument is made of. Materials marked 8ХФ, 9ХФ, 9ХС, ХВГ, У7А and many others are acceptable. It is only necessary to avoid the designation of MRTU, OST and TU on these details.

Of the tools you might find useful:

• abrasive sharpener;
• file;
• marker for marking;
• chisel;
• magnetic corner;
• clamp;
• sandpaper;
• grinding disc for sharpening the blade;
• bulgarian;
• some work may require a welding machine.

DIY making

You can make any kind of ax on your own. It can be simple, hunting, Scandinavian, marching, designed for throwing (throwing) or just decorative - there are a great many options. And it is also permissible to update the tool and build a completely new and convenient tool of labor from the old ax. In order to do such work yourself at home, you first need to make an accurate drawing with all the indicators of the planned tool. It is important to indicate the sizes of all parts, because they can vary greatly. For example, the shaft of an ax is not only quite large, but also medium or small, like the blade.

From the spring

A small hatchet can be made from an old spring. It can be not only a worker, but also an original decorative tool, similar to a Viking ax. You need to do such a thing as follows.

1. It is necessary to take an old spring from a car with a width of 10 cm and a length of about 40 cm. Using a previously prepared template, apply the contours of the planned device to the springs using a marker.
2. Draw out the outlines of the ax using a grinder with cut-off wheels. Then carefully grind the cut out workpiece, giving it the desired shape.
3. For particularly complex metal work, it is permissible to use a drill.
4. An old chair leg can be used as a handle. Drill 3 holes in the spring for fastening to the handle.
5. Cut a piece of the desired length from the leg. Saw this piece into two halves. Drill 3 holes in each of them. After that, you need to assemble the handle, fixing it with bolts and screws. Draw the shape of the part on a grinder.
6. Finally, sharpen the blade. The result is a beautiful mini hatchet. It is suitable for outdoor recreation or in a summer cottage.

From reinforcement

A good cleaver can be made from this detail. It is done like this.

• Take two reinforcement pieces with a length of 50 cm and 8 blanks to make the bottom and top squares.
• Using rebar, weld a couple of squares. Then weld the racks.

• For the cleaver blade, it is advisable to take steel with a thickness of 8-10 mm. Weld the knife to the rebar.
• Now start sharpening the angle of attack. Place the knife in the middle of the structure.

After that, a simple homemade cleaver can be considered complete. It can be a good alternative to a mechanical or screw device.

From a circular saw

A good ax can be built from an old disc circular saw... To make a reliable and strong tool, in this case, you only need a carved disk from a circular. Let's consider how to make an ax from such a part (you do not need to harden the disc, since it is already hardened).

• Draw a drawing of the future instrument on a cardboard or paper. Cut out the resulting template. Transfer it to disk.
• Cut out the part you want using the impeller.
• Heat the resulting part using a burner. Drill 2 holes for attaching the wood handle.

• Cut off the excess residue from the bottom half of the part.
• Clean the hatchet well using sandpaper.
• Cut the hilt out of wood. Lubricate the two halves of this element separated from each other with adhesive, install a couple of screws.
• Strip the handle. Cover with varnish. This will complete the work.

Of stone

You can make an ax using stones. Good blades are made from this material. However, it should be borne in mind that their manufacture is a rather laborious and time-consuming process. The following types of stones are suitable:

• granite;
• quartzite;
• sandstone.

For such a tool, it is advisable to make an oak handle. This material is reliable and sufficiently rigid. Take a pre-made blank. It should be free of knots and other wood defects. Make an incision along the grain below the anatomical structure of the handle. To do this, use a fine-toothed jigsaw. Make a slight downward slope at the tip of the handle. This is necessary so that the planned ax does not slip in the hands during work.

Further in the stone, you can make a hole specifically for the cone using a drill or a locksmith machine. After that, it will be necessary to hammer the prepared handle into the wedge there. If you make a classic stone ax, then it is worth attaching the blade to a special large-width Kevlar tape. Such parts are famous for their reliability and durability, so it will be safe to work with a homemade tool.

These rules should be followed when making a stone ax.

1. Grind the stone so that it is as close as possible to the end of the handle. This is the easiest way to bind it.
2. It makes no sense to operate very expensive specialized devices and machines in the manufacture of this tool. Just peel off the top layer from the stone. It'll be enough.
3. Never make the handle out of raw wood. If you do not follow this rule, then over time it will be possible to face the fact that this part will dry out and noticeably decrease in size. The tool will be unusable.

If everything is done correctly, you will get a reliable, durable and wear-resistant tool that will solve many of the problems that home craftsmen face in the country.

A hatchet can be found in every person engaged in economic activities. The tool is quite expensive, and the cheap ones are of poor quality. Therefore, we will figure out how to make an ax on our own.

How to make an ax head?

You are unlikely to decide on summer cottage independently forge the metal part. Therefore, it is worth looking for an easier way to make the head.

1. Any metal ax head is needed. The optimal weight is 1.5 kilograms (± 100 grams). It is necessary to cut the front ledge exactly with the butt. A defect of 5-6 degrees is allowed, but it is advisable not to allow such defects.
2. The back of the blade should be rounded. Metal - cut down. Otherwise, the surface will have corners. For such work, you can use a grinder, or an ordinary emery wheel (but not with a large grain).
3. Now you need to cut out a semicircle in the inner part of the blade. Without it, the grip of the ax will be poor. Accordingly, it will not be possible to do any serious work. Due to the optimal shape of the ax, it will be possible to hang it on tree branches, pull up logs, and so on. We will also reduce the weight of the tool element by 100-200 grams.
4. The upper corners of the butt must be cut down. Thus, we achieve more efficient work with the tool and reduce its weight. But this is an optional step.
5. Only the sharpening of the ax remained. We don't even consider the grinder! Low-boring tool only. An emery machine is perfect. It should have a large circle and medium grain. You need to sharpen the ax from both sides! Do not make it too sharp (the instrument will not last long).

How to make an ax with your own hands?

It is very important to make a high-quality pen, otherwise you will quickly get tired in the process. Excellent geometry, high-quality grinding, balance - this is not only convenience, but also work safety.

You can safely take pine for the material. It is easy to grind and hone. However, the material is quite brittle. As for birch, it is cheap, readily available, and reasonably reliable. But it is best to take maple and is clear. Among the disadvantages is the complex process of making a pen, which is why beginners are unlikely to be able to cope with this task.

Handle length should not exceed 70 cm (slight deviations are allowed). If you want a camping hatchet, 40 cm is sufficient, but not for firewood. When planning large-scale work, it is worth making a pen measuring 100-120 cm, but it is difficult to work with such a tool.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Let's say we already have a piece of wood. The diameter of the chock is at least 12 cm. Its size is 20 centimeters longer. There should be no defects on the workpiece, even small knots.
2. The wood must be dried. But before that, we clean it from the bark, chop the chock in the center. The holding time is optimally 2 months. Temperature - 25 degrees. Moisture percentage - no more than 15 units. Overheating or excess dampness is the cause of rapid deformation.
3. Tool shape creation. You will need a knife that allows you to quickly remove all unnecessary. But, most likely, you can't do without a chisel or a small hammer. If you are a beginner, then you will have to spend a couple of hours on the third step. For an experienced person, it takes half an hour to plan an ax.
4. Planting and fixing the ax. Auxiliary elements - epoxy resin, gauze. Further waiting for several days - later you can chop wood. For reliability, it is worth driving a wedge (especially if complex work is ahead of the tool).
5. It remains to grind the ax handle, varnish it. Use only high quality sandpaper. Need anti-corrosion compounds for the durability of the ax. Varnish is a visual component. It is important if you plan to donate a hand-made instrument.

For a gift, it would be nice to make a leather case. It's simple enough. You will need 30 × 30 leather, strong thread (preferably nylon) and an awl.

The ax is one of the most famous and affordable tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If used correctly, it can simplify many of your workflows with great results. An ax can not only be bought ready-made in a specialized store, but also made at home. This will not take a lot of time, effort and money. Today we will take a closer look at how to correctly make an ax with our own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many works are impracticable without a well-sharpened and strong ax. This tool is often needed both in household and in larger-scale works. In retail outlets, you can find many different models of such tools, because there are quite a few types of axes themselves. Pick up perfect option possible according to any requirement.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find an easy way out for themselves - they make an ax on their own. For a tool to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements.So, to create an ax, it is very important to choose the right suitable material.

Not every kind of wood is suitable for creating this part of the ax.It is believed that a true master will go around the whole forest before finding the very tree from which it will be possible to make an ax. In most cases, the specified element of the ax is built from the root section of a birch, and even better, if we use the growths that are present on its trunk. These parts are characterized by a very dense and curled structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other hardwoods. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable handles of the highest quality. But it is not enough to find the ideal material for making a hatchet. It is also necessary to competently prepare him for the upcoming work.

The blanks must be dried well.This is done only in natural conditions, and it often takes a lot of time - on average 3-4 years, or even longer (5 years will be quite enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place where there is good ventilation. Precipitation, moisture and water should not penetrate into the space where natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense from such drying, and it will not work to make a good ax.

How to make a template?

If you have already prepared and dried to the desired degree of material, then you should proceed to the next stage of creating a handle for an ax. Next, you need to competently make a convenient template that will become an excellent assistant in further work.

It is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict rules governing the shape of the hatchet based on the main type of device. So, light tools, the weight of which usually ranges from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more "serious" heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m.It should also be borne in mind that all existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

• carpenter's;
• lumberjack;
• knotted;
• cleaver;
• butcher's.

Before embarking on the independent design of such a tool, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the detailed drawings of different handle models.

When making a template, a number of important features should be considered.

• So that in the process of work the ax does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of the swing, its "tail" must be made a little wider than the place of capture.
• When making an ax for a cleaver, it is necessary to make a part with a length of 0.75-0.95 m. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle mostly reaches the 0.5 m mark.
• To the parameter of the length of the handle, the will of the butt must be added another 8-10 cm for the allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to make sure that the tree does not start to split at this moment.

The template, with its correct shape and all dimensions, will need to be applied to paper or cardboard.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

It is not difficult to prepare an ax with your own hands. To do this, you must adhere to a not very complex technology of work. Let's get acquainted with it:

• mark the workpiece using a template;
• after that, it can be carefully cut out with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
• further, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number important rules, which must be adhered to in the course of work.

• The processing of the attachment place of the hatchet must be carried out as carefully and carefully as possible so as not to accidentally remove the excess part of the tree. Otherwise, the butt simply cannot be tightly fixed in place. It is better to periodically try the handle on to the eyelet, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
• Do not use the file in the process of finishing the part. This will inevitably loosen the wood. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better not to use a file, but a fine abrasive sandpaper with a grinder. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
• It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the fixing place of the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt nozzle. As for the cleaver, the specified angle should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax, 75 degrees.

When self-production axes need to be acted very carefully. There is no need to rush. If you wish, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with a jute cord - it will also hold the blade more securely). When the hatchet is ready, it will be necessary to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's consider how to do this.

• Adjust the top of the part to fit the eyelet of the blade. Remove the excess wood with a knife. Be careful.
• On the handle, exposed horizontally, put the cutting part on top. Then you need to put a mark on the handle with a pencil, to which it will be driven in. Divide the line and make another mark.
• Lock the handle in an upright position using a vise. The wide piece should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Cut exactly to the second wedge mark.

• At a specialized outlet, pick up a wedge made of metal or make it yourself from wood.
• Place the board on a separate countertop. Place the blade on it. Lay it upside down. Throw the prepared hatchet over this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the fixture over and knock on the board with the handle. The part will continue to fit. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, it will turn out to drive the ax into the eyelet well.
• Then set the part upright. Install a wedge in the cut. Hit him with a mallet. Saw off excess protruding parts

How to protect against decay?

The wood from which the ax is made, like other similar materials, is subject to decay. Such problems always arise over time or under improper storage conditions. It is important to take care of a homemade ax in advance, protecting it from decay. It is strongly discouraged to use compounds such as lacquers or paints to protect wooden handles. The prohibition on the use of such compositions is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this will be the glossy smooth texture.

The optimal solution to protect the ax from decay, other suitable impregnations will become. Can cover the handle linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics that will prolong the life natural wood... But we must take into account that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget about this procedure.

Some masters add red pigment to antiseptic protective agents. They don't turn to this trick to make the instrument more interesting. appearance... After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the handle should be made so that its section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, it will be possible to hold it successfully without straining your hand too much. In this case, blows with an ax will be more accurate and light. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating a hatchet in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of sap is reduced to a minimum (practically stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect to dry wood for the construction of an ax. As a result, it ends with the handle changing in size, and the metal part with the butt on it holds very poorly. It is permissible to refer to undried material only in special situations when the handle needs to be built in an urgent manner, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a new hatchet yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing / template of the future tool. If you have a very handy old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. It will be much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure that the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to start sharpening the ax blade only after installing it on the ax.

It is very important to use a ready-made ax (both homemade and purchased in a store) correctly. Experienced craftsmen it is strongly not recommended to try to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to chop wood, it is best to make sure that there are no solid particles inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly discouraged to throw the finished tool onto hard surfaces, especially from a great height. It is not recommended to leave the ax in the open air. Precipitation or aggressive sunlight can negatively affect quality wooden parts... Keep such a tool in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.

Ax - a chopping tool, consisting of a wood handle, often short, and a blade, which is located longitudinally or perpendicularly to the shaft. The latter are called tesla... They cut out grooves during the construction of huts and ships, princely chambers and churches, gouged troughs, boats, cut sculptures, toys and other wooden products.

The secret of the durability of products chopped with an ax is that the fibers of the tree are crumpled under the blow of the ax and do not allow moisture to pass through. This does not happen when sawing, when the pores of the wood remain open for rot.

What are the axes and what are they used for?

The etymological dictionary gives several versions of the origin of the word, starting from the Bulgarian "ax", Slovenian "topor", Czech, Polish, etc. Experts consider the ax to be an Orthodox word and associate it with "trample", otherwise "beat" if it is about the heart, from Ukrainian "tepority" - to drag with difficulty, Bulgarian "typta" - mesh, trample.

A wooden handle is called a hatchet, a metal part with a blunt rounded end on one side - a butt. Not the most the best option there will be a choice of sticks with a round section. It is much more convenient if the section is oval and the handle consists of straight and curved sections. The tail section is folded down for a comfortable grip.

On the other side, there is a blade with a sharpened working blade. Sometimes products have a beard-protrusion on the blades next to the mount, which protects the ax from impacts on metal and strengthens the fastening of the tree with the metal part of the product... It is believed that such axes are descendants of battle axes from Northern Europe. Most often, carpentry tools have barbs; they are irreplaceable when working with wood.

Axes were used as cold fighting weapons, chopping and throwing.

Depending on the application, axes are:

Another type is double-sided. The blades can be sharpened in different ways and are designed to perform a wide range of work. They can be used like throwing weaponas they are well balanced. Products are made from high-carbon steel. The other side of the coin is their injury risk, high price, inconvenient handle, lack of shock function.

Manufacturing

Manufacturing of blades from grades of high-carbon steels protects axes from mechanical damage and allows them to withstand temperature extremes. The blade does not require periodic sharpening, during operation it is not damaged with the appearance of notches and scratches. The head is stamped with the metal grade. Forged Products more durable and heavier, you should give your preference to this type of metal processing.

According to the width of the cutting part, tools are:

1. wide;
2. medium;
3. narrow.

If the blade of a metal blade is sharpened at an angle of less than forty degrees, the tool penetrates deeper into the wood, but also quickly dulls. Combined sharpening allows you to save the blade from damage if the impact falls on the edge of the metal, with this method the central part is sharpened at a sharper angle than the edges.

The blades are straight and rounded. The latter, due to a decrease in the area and an increase in pressure on the contact points, acquire better cutting qualities.

Axes with plastic shafts are as strong as wood, but lighter. Sometimes wooden axes are made with a rubberized grip to absorb shocks and protect the wrist.

Choosing the right tool

1. the optimal length of the ax is from the wrist to the shoulder joint;
2. the handle of the ax must be completely covered by the hand to avoid injury.

When choosing a short handle, you will have to make too much range of motion in order to increase the impact force, the recoil to the hand will also increase. This will interfere with long and productive work with the tool.

If you intend to constantly work with the tool, you should give preference to an expensive high-quality product. If the work falls out from time to time, get a cheaper option. A product from one manufacturer can have large price differences depending on the sale in the market or in a large store.

Features of the design of taiga axes

Taiga axes are truly versatile. Tools are capable of felling trees, butchering animal carcasses, chopping wood for a fire, processing and splitting logs along the fibers, building huts. They are highly durable and serve for many years. They are used by gamekeepers, hunters, geologists, foresters and tourists.

The taiga tool differs from the carpenter's ax in the length of the handle. As a rule, it is longer than 50 centimeters and allows you to make a wide swing to increase the impact force when chopping. The head vane has no upper part. If necessary, you can independently change or adjust the blade of an existing ax. The cut of the upper toe reduces the weight of the tool, strengthens the upper part of the head when working at low temperatures, it is more convenient to work with such an ax. The shape of the blade is rounded to allow for various forestry work. The head has a beard for strength.

A wedge or steel nail is inserted into the eyelet, or seat, to strengthen the fasteners. The fungus - the place on the handle - should not allow the hand to slip. The butt of the ax can easily replace the hammer if necessary.

When choosing a taiga instrument, three rules must be followed. The tool must be selected individually according to the height of the man, given its frequent use, the main weight should fall on the metal head, the weight of the tool is chosen optimal in terms of transferring the product and performing the impact function.

Do-it-yourself taiga masterpiece

Let's make taiga ax from the old with your own hands. For manufacturing, you will need a metal head from another product. It is cleaned of rust. If the damage is deeply ingrained into notches and cracks, the metal is soaked for a day in a vinegar bath, then cleaned with a sandpaper.

The next step is to adjust the tool head for a taiga specimen using a grinder.

For the ax, choose a tree with hardwood. Beech is best suited for this role. The handle, on which the head is mounted, is soaked in oil in several steps to prevent dampness. It is advised to use drying oil, wax, boiling oil, linseed oil can be used.

But it should be dried in ultraviolet rays in order to start the process of hemolytic cleavage, in which some bonds in the substance disintegrate and stronger ones are formed. The process ends when the product feels dry, rough and leaves no marks on the hands.

The product gets additional strength and water resistance. The fibers of the tree should go along the handle, manufacturers sometimes trash and paint over the product if the fibers are at an angle. The strength of the ax in such a product is reduced.

The metal part is pushed onto the butt of the handle in such a way that the ax is one and a half centimeters above the head. Having achieved a tight fit, the head is removed and several cuts are made in the butt, not reaching the planting depth by 5 millimeters: one longitudinal cut and two transverse.

To prevent the handle from cracking, the cuts are reamed. Now the wedges are prepared from the same material - five wedges are required - and the structure is reassembled.

For strength, fasten epoxy resin, reinforcing with bandages to enhance the fit. Beech wedges are hammered in, securing the seat securely. All unnecessary is cut down, the product is carefully sanded. Over time, the epoxy deteriorates; to remove it, axes are burned in a fire. In this case, you can use wood glue.

The final touch is the sharpening of the blade.

To avoid accidental injury, you can sew the protective cover over the metal part.

Correct tool sharpening

You can sharpen the product manually and mechanically... Everyone has their own secrets that you need to know in order to avoid dulling the blade and breaking the "sharpener".

When manual sharpening a template is prepared from tin, the sharpening angle is selected, the desired shape is cut and applied to the ax blade. A sharpening line is marked on the head blade with a marker. The action is performed by moving "away from oneself", the process is time consuming and exhausting. It is carried out in several stages using sandstone grinding wheels with different grain sizes.

When mechanical experts do not recommend sharpening an ax to rush, they do not advise working with a grinder, you should choose a low processing speed. For the desired sharpening angle, a finishing paste is used, the grinding wheel is covered with it and the product is ground.

After sharpening, the tool blade is protected against rust with lithium, grease, machine oil or waste oil. It is best to keep the instrument dry.

Compliance with safety regulations

1. do not leave the ax on the ground, so that the tool does not rust and the handle does not get damp;
2. the head of the product should not dangle on the handle;
3. when chopping logs, place a ladder underneath so as not to damage the blade on stone or metal;
4. make sure you have enough room to swing the ax freely.

The ax is rightfully considered the "king" of the carpentry tool. A true professional carpenter knows how to make an ax that is perfect for a particular operation. The master, as a rule, has several axes, always ready for work. However, this tool is needed not only by carpenters, but also by ordinary people living outside the city in private houses, as well as by townspeople who go to summer cottages or on weekends. Each owner has to chop wood to heat the stove in the house or in the bathhouse. In order for this process to proceed faster and not to cause trouble in the form of a flying ax, a dull blade or a broken hatchet, it is necessary to be able to properly prepare this tool for work and maintain it in "combat readiness" throughout the entire service life. The shape of the handle can be different. It is important to fit the ax correctly, wedge it, and then sharpen the blade at the desired angle.

When buying an ax, or rather its piercing part, you should pay attention to the quality of the metal taken to make the tool. Look for the GOST sign on the ax, which confirms the conformity of the metal state standards and requirements. Be on your guard if instead of this sign there is TU, OST or MRTU. In this case, the manufacturer can make changes to the technology. Soviet-era axes of high quality metal can be purchased at the flea market.

The quality of the metal can be checked empirically by taking two axes and hitting the blade of one of them on the blade of the other. On a lower quality product, jags will remain after impacts. Also, the quality of the metal is checked by the characteristic sound that is emitted when the ax is tapped. In this case, the tool must be suspended.

You should also focus on the following points:

• there should be no bends or dents on a well drawn blade;
• the taper of the eyelet;
• alignment of the eyelet and ax blade;
• small thickness of the butt and the perpendicularity of its ends to the blade.

Do not be upset if you cannot find an ax that meets all of the above requirements. After all, the identified deviations can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the eyelet and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.

There will also be useful material on how to make a device for carrying firewood:

The choice of blank and the manufacture of an ax

The length of the ax is chosen based on the height and strength of the master. The quality of the wood also plays an important role. Lightweight axes, weighing about 800-1000 g, have handles ranging in length from 40 to 60 cm.In a heavy tool (1000-1400 g), the length of the hatchet varies from 55 to 65 cm.

The force of the blow depends on the length of the ax. The longer the handle of the ax, the easier it is to chop wood. A person's strength and height also matters

Not every type of wood is suitable for making an ax handle. For this purpose, a true master goes through the whole forest before he finds suitable tree... Most often, the blank for the ax is made from the root part of a birch, or better from the growths on its trunk, which are distinguished by a special twisted and very dense wood. Maple, oak, acacia, ash, and other hardwoods can be used instead of birch. The workpieces must be well dried in natural conditions, which will take a lot of time.

On the prepared blank, the contours of the future hatchet are outlined according to the selected template. There should be a bulge at the end of the handle of the ax, designed to "brake" the hand in the event of the tool slipping out. Then the excess wood outside the contour is removed with a knife, ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, chisel or jigsaw, which is much faster. After fitting the ax to the ax with a mallet, and making sure that these parts fit snugly, you can continue further finishing the tool handle. Glass is used for scraping, and fine-grained sandpaper is used for grinding.

Above is a drawing of a hatchet (a) that meets the requirements of GOST 1400-73, and below is a handle of a camping ax (b) with an undisturbed fiber area of \u200b\u200b40 mm

Important! If the handle easily fits into the eyelet, this means that the master made a mistake in the calculations and drew the template incorrectly. In this case, even a driven wedge will not correct the situation, providing a short, tight fit of the ax on the ax.

How to fit an ax onto a handle?

Below is an algorithm for carrying out operations, showing how to fit an ax onto a machined and polished hatchet. This is one of the possible ways:

• Fit the top of the ax to the eye of the ax. At the same time, cut off the excess wood with a knife. You should not use a file, as it "sweeps" the tree.
• On a hatchet, placed horizontally on the table, place the ax on top, and with a pencil mark on the handle a mark to which it will fit. Divide the line in half and add a second mark.
• Clamp the ax upright in a vise with the wide end at the top. Take a hacksaw for metal and cut to the second mark for the wedge.
• Buy a metal wedge from a store or plane a wooden counterpart, the thickness of which should be between 5 and 10 mm. The length of a wedge made for an ax with your own hands should be equal to the depth of the cut, and the width should be equal to the size of the eye of the ax.
• Place a board on the table and place the ax upside down on it. Put the ax on the ax and start tapping it on the board. Then turn over and knock on the board with the handle of the ax, while the process of insertion continues. Turning over and tapping must be done several times. As a result, the ax will go into the eyelet.
• Next, place the hatchet vertically and insert a planed wedge into the cut, hammer it with a mallet to half or almost to the end. With a hacksaw for metal, cut off everything that remains sticking out from above.
• Apply oil (motor oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, etc.) to the ax, let the excess drain off and leave to dry. Wipe the ax and handle with a rag.

After fitting the ax to the hatchet, shown in figure (a), make its attachment (b) and wedging of the handle (c): 1- ax, 2 - hatchet, 3 - wedge

How and at what angle is the ax blade sharpened?

To make the tool not a hassle, you need to properly sharpen the ax blade. According to the requirements of GOST, the value of the sharpening angle of the construction ax should be 20-30 °. Tool for carpentry sharpened at a slightly higher angle of 35 °. The recommended angles must be observed as thinner blades will bind in the wood. Extra efforts will have to be made to pull them out. On knots, the thin blade can easily bend. The blade, sharpened at an angle of 35 °, breaks the chips separated from the main log, does not get stuck in the wood.

First, a "rough" primary sharpening of the ax is carried out, during which it is possible to remove all the cracks, minor damages and large potholes with a rotating grinding wheel. At the same time, a new clear cutting edge of the ax is being formed. Then the roughly sharpened blade is subjected to "fine" sharpening. Grinding is carried out along the entire length of the blade on both sides with a fine-grained bar, which removes all burrs.

Three ways to sharpen the ax blade: a) grinding wheel; b) a bar, moistened with water; c) dressing with a touchstone moistened with machine oil

Important! The brilliance of the ax blade and the absence of burrs on the cutting edge indicates that the sharpening process was successful.

How to store an ax correctly?

After work, it is recommended to put on a cover made of thick leather, birch bark or other material on the ax blade. You cannot leave an ax stuck into a log. A true master takes care of his instrument, because the ax is an "extension" of his hands.

Having tried to chop wood with a homemade ax at least once, you will not be able to work with a store tool. If you doubt your abilities, then use the services of craftsmen who know how to make a convenient hatchet for an ax from a selected and dried blank.