Techniques for performing various carpentry operations are outlined, a description is given hand tool, its adjustment and manufacture, it is told about the device of the device for carpentry. Recommendations are given on the artistic assessment of wood as an ornamental material, on the restoration of objects made of wood, their finishing (polishing, varnishing, marquetry, inlay). Examples of making some products are given. The book uses the experience of the old masters of the art and furniture industry.

For a wide range of readers.

What This Book Is About 1

Joinery material 2

Tool 5

Woodworking with tools 15

Measurement work, preparation of measurement drawings 19

Layout work in nature 20

Joinery connections 21

Gluing and gluing 22

Fundamentals of artistic veneering of joinery 25

Finishing joinery 28

Restoration work 30

Manufacture of joinery 32

G.I.Kulebakin
Joinery

Published by the decision of the section of literature on technologists construction works editorial board of Stroyizdat.

Reviewer - Ch. specialist of the furniture and equipment sector of TsNIIEP for entertainment buildings and sports facilities E.S. Ustinov.

In our harsh and fast-paced age, the age of glass and concrete, metal and polymers, a person especially acutely feels a craving for such a seemingly out-of-date, warm and always beloved material like wood. From the patriarchal antiquity and the knightly Middle Ages, methods of processing it have come down to us. Save experience best masters past, the book of the candidate of architecture, a subtle connoisseur carpentry and the wonderful craftsman Georgy Ivanovich Kulebakin. It will be of interest both to masters engaged in carpentry decoration of interiors of public buildings, and to those who devote their leisure time to the ancient and young, painstaking and beautiful carpentry art.

What this book is about

Wood processing is one of the first crafts that a person mastered. This material is malleable to the instrument, durable, lightweight and beautiful, therefore products made from it have long and firmly entered the life of people and enjoy their constant love.

Carpentry was born out of carpentry and construction with the advent of tools and techniques that make it possible to obtain smooth surfaces and precise details. The essence of carpentry is the ability to cleanly process and join together in a product pieces of wood obtained from a round tree trunk. The decoration appeared much later. In the beginning, joinery was made in natural wood - an array.

Today, woodworking uses thick blocks and planks that are strong enough, and very thin planks such as plywood veneer (a thin cut of wood) that require a load-bearing wood base. Boards and bars go into a hidden structure and for the front parts of the product that are open to the eye, veneer is used exclusively for facing. The surface of the boards and bars is processed by shaving, cutting, turning. Since the natural basis of the carpentry material has not changed - it is still the same wood, the principle of its processing has also been preserved, which means that the techniques of the old masters, who were fluent in hand tools, may well serve today's master, whose work is only facilitated by the use of mechanisms.

Carpentry, along with the ability to choose the material to give the bar the proper shape, also requires taking into account the constructive work of this bar in the product, based on the direction and shape of its fibers.

As you know, there are different types of wood that have different color, structure and strength of wood. Each breed has its own characteristics in processing and finishing. Carpentry also consists in being able to determine the breed, to know its features - advantages and disadvantages, to be able to find in a piece of wood - a blank - the parts that are most suitable for the front details, to be able to connect different breeds together so that this connection is harmonious , beautiful and corresponding to the design characteristics of the product.

Wood lends itself to various finishes - dyeing, staining, varnishing, polishing. However, the possibilities of such a finish for different breeds different: there is wood that easily accepts mordant (color), there is - poorly accepts; some species are poorly polished, etc. An important section of the carpentry art is understanding the possibilities of wood finishing, its choice and the ability to perform this finish.

Any carpentry product consists of separate parts, one way or another connected with each other. The strength of the entire product depends on the strength of the connection of these parts. The master needs to be able to choose the type of bundle of parts, the shape and nature of their processing at the joints, as well as fastening materials.

The parts themselves, connected into a product, can have different thickness and width at the same size and purpose of the product. So, the frame of the door can be wide or narrow, the legs of the stool - both thick and thin. The ability to determine the section necessary for a given place, taking into account not only work, but also beauty, is one of the main components of carpentry art. The master must have a sense of proportion and what is called the sense of wood.

The essence of wood processing, as it was said, has been preserved since ancient times practically unchanged: the tree is cut with a saw, its surface is smoothed with a plane, holes are made either with a drill, or with a chisel, and a chisel. Recently, manual machines have appeared in which the cutting parts are driven by a motor. This greatly facilitated the work on the material procurement and, in addition, made it possible to increase the dimensional accuracy of the same type of parts and the speed of their manufacture. The master is required to be able to use manual machines in such a way that, in comparison with manual production, the possibilities of obtaining new forms of joinery products would not be limited, but, on the contrary, would increase. In short, the master must also masterfully wield hand-held machines like a chisel or a plane. Of course, there is no need to dwell on the necessity of owning a hand tool.

Modern joinery production has been supplemented by several new types of joinery materials. Firstly, it is finished with valuable wood flat shield based on chipboard ( particle board) or carpentry board assembled from glued together wooden slats and lined with plywood veneer on the outside. Secondly, it is a paper or plastic film imitation material that replaces natural, and, thirdly, polyester and nitrocellulose varnishes, which make it possible to obtain a durable thick transparent layer of the surface finish of products. The ability to use these materials is a prerequisite for carpentry today.

Thus, the art of carpentry includes both a purely handicraft part - processing wood with a tool and joining parts into a product, and a creative part - the ability to choose and combine species, feel harmony in a joinery. This last is the most difficult, but the mastery of harmony is the main quality of a true master.

Due to development mechanized ways wood processing has recently lost the direct connection between the structure of the tree and its shape. Many artistic and logical false decisions have appeared, such that it was impossible to make manually (for example, transverse pasting of curved corners and edges of plates, long, bending parts), which are mainly dictated by the convenience of factory technology. You cannot imitate them. Therefore, one can understand the real logic of the structure of a wooden thing only by studying samples of folk furniture, furniture and joinery of past times. All the details of peasant furniture and products of medieval master carpenters are made and connected in accordance with the true constructive work of the wooden element in the product. Outwardly, this is characterized by the direction of the fibers in the part, usually made of solid wood.

The study of the logic of constructing antique or folk furniture should not at all be accompanied by copying old forms. Although, on the other hand, it must be said that it is hardly possible to invent a table or cabinet that is fundamentally different in design: after all, the forms of wooden furniture have been developed over many centuries.

Carpentry is intensively spreading in various segments of the population - from craftsmen engaged in carpentry decoration of premises in public buildings to domestic craftsmen. At the same time, the requirements for the quality of carpentry work are increasing. At the same time, the professional skill of the workers engaged in carpentry finishing of interiors does not always correspond to the proper level. This is because the level of manual craftsmanship has declined: the old generation carpenters have left without sharing the secrets of their work, the carpenters of furniture enterprises are too specialized. Many former unskilled carpenters now work as carpenters in construction.

It is impossible to obtain comprehensive information about the professional techniques of carpentry from carpentry textbooks, since the presentation of manual work in them is given very succinctly.

Carpentry Literature

1. Akishenkov SI Protection of lumber from cracking during drying. M., 1978.33 p.

2. Amalitsky V.V., Lyubchenko V.I. Handbook of a young woodworker. M., 1974.

3. Bartashevich A.A., Antonov V.P. Furniture production technology and wood carving.
288 pages, 2001; Publisher: Higher School

4. Berlin MA Humidity measurement, 2nd ed., Revised. and add. M., 1973.400 p.

5. Biryukov V.A. Chamber drying of wood in electric field high frequency. M.-L., 1950.102 p.

6. Bobikov P.D., Lutherstein M.B. Plywood works. M., 1974

7. Bobikov P.D. Design of joinery and furniture products. M., 1980, 173 p.

8. Bobikov P.L. Artistic furniture manufacturing. M., 1982, 271 p.

9. Buglay B.M. Wood finishing technology. M., 1973.

10. Bulanin. V.D. Mosaic woodwork. 144 pages, 2001; Publisher: Olma-Press; Series: School of Mastery

11. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N. House carving, Moscow, 1994, 352 p.

12. Bukhtiyarov V.P. Equipment for finishing wood products. M., 1971.

13. Vakin A. T. Storage round wood... M., 1964.428 p.

14. Weber G.B. DIY modern furniture; Translated from German -M., 1980, 78 p.

15. Gashkova AK Influence of humidity on the quality of joinery and construction products. M., 1974.80 p.

16. Ginzburg A.S. Fundamentals of theory and technology of DRYING food products... M., 1973.528 p. 7.

17. Hirsch M. Drying technique. Per. with him. M., 1937.628 p.

18. Glikin M.S. Decorative woodwork on machine tools, Moscow, 1999, 280 s

19. Deaf V. H. Prevention of warping of lumber during chamber drying. M., 1975.35 p.

20. Golenishchev A.N., Dobrynin S.V., Andreeva A.A. Drying and protective treatment of wood.- M .: Lesn. Prom-th, 1984. - 80 p.

21. Gorshin S. H. Atmospheric drying of sawn timber. M., 1971. 295 p.

22. Grigoriev M.A. Industrial training for joiners. M., 1979, 223 p.

23. Grigoriev MA Material science for joiners and carpenters. M., 1981, 169 p.

24. Grigoriev M.A. Industrial training for woodworking machine operators. M., 1982, 152 p.

25. Monetary P.M., Stiskin P.M., Tkhor I.E. Turning business. M., 1979.

26. Dmitrievskaya T.S. Finishing of furniture with nitro-varnishes. L. 1951

27. Zabozlaev B.S. Safe working conditions in finishing workshops of woodworking enterprises. M., 1967.

28. Directory-reference of hand tools for construction. M., 1989.

29. Heinrich Gatsura. Furniture Styles. 164 p., 2001; Publisher: Moscow City Organization of the Union of Writers of Russia.

30. Kondratyev GM Regular thermal regime. M., 1954.408 p.

31. Konovalenko A.M. Furniture Restoration, St. Petersburg, 1998, 112 p.

32. Korotkov V.I. Woodworking machinery. M., 1986.

33. Krasnikov V. V. Conductive drying. M., 1973.288 p.

34. Kreidlin L.N. Joinery, carpentry and parquet works... M., 1997, 320 p.

35. Kreidlin L.N. Carpentry work. M., 1982, 127 p.

36. Kreidlin L.N. Carpentry. M., 1985, 174 p.

37. Krechetov I.V. Drying of wood. 3rd ed. revised M .: Lesn. prom-st, 1980.-432 p.

38. Krechetov IV Drying of wood with flue gases. M., 1961.270 p.

39. Krechetov IV Wood drying. M., 1972.440 p.

40. Krechetov IV Wood drying. M.-L., 1949.528 p.

41. Krechetov IV Start-up and operation of a continuous gas drying plant of the Krechetov system. TSNIITEIlesprom. M., 1965.24 p.

42. Kraut F. and Meyer Fr. Carpentry and joinery work at interior decoration buildings. Floors, doors, windows, wall cladding and decoration, ceilings, stairs. 292 pages, 1901; Publisher: Publishing G.V. Golsten.

43. Krisher O. Scientific basis of drying techniques. M., 1961.540 p.

44. Kuksov V.A. Joinery. M., 1960.

45. G. I. Kulebakin. Joinery. M., 1987.143.

46. \u200b\u200bKulikov IV Technology of manufacturing and repair of furniture according to the orders of the population. M., 1974.424 p.

47. Lashaver M.S., Rebrin S.P. Finishing of fiberboard with synthetic materials. M., 1970.

48. Lebedev PD Calculation and design of drying plants. M.-L., 1963.320 p.

49. Logacheva. L.A. The basics of woodcarving skills. 136 pages, 2001; Publisher: Folk Art

50 A. V. Lykov Drying theory. M., "Energy", 1968 -472 p.

51. Lykov A. V. Heat and mass transfer (reference book). M., 1972.560 p.

52. V. I. Lyubchenko, G. F. Druzhkov. Handbook of a young machine operator of a sawmill and woodworking enterprise. M., 1985.

53. Matveeva T.V. Mosaic and wood carvings. M., 1981, 80 p.

54. Mikhailichenko A.L., Sadovnichy F.P. Wood science and forestry commodity science. M., 19883.205 p.

55. Mikhailov Yu, M. Drying with superheated steam. M., 1967.198 s

56. Muzalevsky V. I. Measurement of wood moisture content. M., 1976.120 p.

57. Nagorskaya I.A. Grinding and polishing equipment for finishing shops, VNIPIEILesprom, 1971.

58. V. Nefedov. How to make furniture yourself. M., 1986, 192 p.

59. Nikitin L.I. Safety engineering in woodworking enterprises. M., 1982, 240 p.

60. Standards for chamber drying of sawn timber. M.-L., 1957.39 p.

61. Wood processing. Traditional technique. 432 pp., 1999; Publishers: AST, Geleos

62. Orlova Yu.D. Wood products finishing. M., 1968.

63. Perelygin LM Wood science. M., 1969.318 p.

64. Peich H. H., Tsarev B. S. Drying of wood. M., 1975.224 p.

65. Pesotsky A. N., Yasinsky V. S. Design of sawmill and woodworking industries. M., 1976.375 p.

66. Petrov A.K. Woodworking technology. M., 1974, 271 p.

67. Popov K.N. , Caddo M.B .. Construction Materials and products. 368 pages, 2001; Publisher: Higher School

68. Practical advice... Carpentry work. 208 pages, 2000; Publishers: AST, Harvest; Series: My profession

69. Prozorovsky N.I. Technology of finishing joinery. M., 1981, 288 p.

70. Pronin. L.A. Wood carving and mosaics. 272 pages, 2001; Publisher: U-Factoria; Series: DIY

71. Prudnikov P.G., Goldberg E.E., Kordonskaya B.K. Handbook of furniture finishing, Kiev: Tehnika, 1982

72. Anthers N. A. Drying of wood. Kiev, 1968.120 p.

73. Rivkin SA, Aleksandrov AA Thermodynamic properties of water and steam. M., 1975.79 p.

74. Rozov V.N., Savchenko V.F. Veneering of joinery and furniture parts and products. M., 1979, 175 p.

75. Guidance on Chamber Drying of Lumber. Ar-khangelsk, 1977.152 p.

76. Savchenko. V.F. Materials for facing and finishing of joinery and furniture products. 128 pages, 1999; Publisher: Academy (Moscow); Series: Profession

77. Safronenko V.M. Decor and protection of wood. 32 pages, 2001; Publisher: Halton; Series: Master's Tips

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A large carpenter's guide: all types of carpentry work with your own hands

Introduction

There is always some kind of work for a man in a house, apartment or dacha: hammering in a nail, fixing a stool, nailing a hanger or shelf to the wall. Therefore, the ability to own carpentry tools is always necessary. And if you want to do something more meaningful with your own hands, then you can go from small renovation works to more laborious ones: for example, make a built-in table and a bench on a small balcony, build it in the country wooden stairs or lay out the floor with boards, make a crib or a bedside table for tools. As you acquire the necessary skills, you will be able to make a whole furniture set or even build a house from a log house, make yourself wooden windows, doors and even a roof. In this case, you can save significant amounts of money on wages and use them to buy expensive, but very aesthetic, environmentally friendly and high-quality material.

Recently, natural and environmentally friendly materials have become increasingly popular. First of all, this is a tree. Floors, windows, doors and furniture made of wood not only look very beautiful and harmonious, but they are not capable of harming health, especially if non-toxic substances were also used for their processing and decoration. Some manufacturers modern furniture they use in their production just natural and safe materials for human health. But not everyone can afford such luxury furniture for several thousand dollars. If you do the work yourself, then it is quite possible to purchase all the desired material, saving on its processing, assembly of the structure, decoration and, which is also important, on the delivery of the finished product. Of course, such work will take a lot of time and effort, but the result will invariably please, especially with a conscientious attitude to business and high-quality performance of all work.

Home carpenter's tools

For joinery and carpentry work, you will definitely need a set of the most simple tools: ax, hammer, nail puller, chisel, jamb knife, pliers, etc. Over time and as needed, this minimum set can be replenished with specific tools that will be useful for more serious work. In the arsenal of an already professional carpenter, there should be chisels of various profiles, a hacksaw for wood and metal, a jigsaw, an electric drill with a set of drills and a grinding disc for surface treatment, different types emery paper, files and needle files with different cutting frequencies for surface treatment of parts. It is necessary to become familiar with some of these tools to know what kind of work they are intended for.

Hand carpentry tools

Hand tools are used with their own power. These are an ax, a hammer, a mallet, a plane, a hacksaw, a chisel, a chisel, a knife, pliers, a dobolnik and clamps.

Some of these tools can be replaced with the same counterparts that operate under the action of current, which greatly facilitates the process of any work. In addition, there are auxiliary tools: screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, rasps, files, etc.

It is a very important tool for any kind of work, including carpentry and joinery. The hammer consists of a wooden handle and a striker made of high quality steel.

There are common, carpentry hammers and mallets. For carpentry work, it is desirable to have 2-3 hammers of different weights (200, 400 and 600 g) in the set. For starters, you can only purchase one medium-weight hammer.

A conventional hammer has a round or oval plane of the striking surface, and on the other side of the striker there is a pointed end, which is used to level nails when driving.

Mallet is a wooden hammer, which is used mainly for lapping wooden blocks in the gluing process, when working with a chisel, etc.

An ordinary hammer can break wooden surface the fabric to be processed or break wooden handle chisels, and the blows of the mallet are softer, therefore they cannot lead to damage to the product. Mallets are flat and round (barrel-shaped), and the mallet handle is rectangular with rounded sharp edges. They are made from wear-resistant wood of twisted birch, hornbeam and elm.

Figure: 1. Mallet hammer

A round mallet usually has 18 cm in height, 12 cm in diameter, 8 cm in diameter of the working ends (butts), and the length of the handle is 39 cm.You can make mallets yourself using these parameters or less (fig. 1).

Master's advice

When pulling a nail out of wood with a carpenter's hammer, so as not to crush the surface of the object or product, you need to put a piece of thin board or plywood at least 3 mm thick under the hammer, or use a metal plate.

Figure: 2. Carpenter's hammer

A carpenter's hammer has one side of the striker, like a conventional hammer, and the other end is divided into two parts according to the type dovetail... This bifurcated end is used for pulling out nails, etc. Thus, in the process of work, you can get by with one tool, using it for both hammering in and pulling out nails (fig. 2).

This tool is simply irreplaceable in the carpentry business. It is used to chop, chop, hew wood, and the reverse side of the ax is used to inflict stronger blows than a hammer can do. (fig. 3).

Figure: 3. Ax

The ax consists of a wooden handle and an ax made of steel. Depending on the angle of the handle relative to the handle, there are several types of this tool.

In a straight ax, the ax is located relative to the handle at an angle of 90 °. It is used for splitting wood. For an acute-angled ax, the angle of attachment of the ax to the handle is 80–85 °. This ax is used for primary processing of wood: removal of bark, protruding knots on the trunk, etc. The handle of a blunt-angled ax is located relative to the handle at an angle of 100 °. It is suitable for rough work on whole tree trunks.

There are axes in which the blade is sharpened on both sides, while others are sharpened on only one side. The first option is most often used because it can be used for both felling and weaving wood. And the second type of ax is suitable only for cutting.

With this tool, various parts of wood and metal are sawn off and cut (fig. 4).

Figure: 4. Hacksaw

Hacksaws vary according to blade thickness and tooth setting.

Each type is designed to perform a specific job, as it gives a different quality of the sawn surface. A hacksaw with a "mouse" tooth is usually used for carpentry work - its teeth are very fine and often set. For carpentry work, a hacksaw with a rarer and larger tooth is used.

For example, a hacksaw with a wide blade, teeth sharpened at a 45 ° angle, and a 0.5 mm centerline set is used to cut wood across the grain. A narrow hacksaw with the same setting and method of sharpening teeth as a wide one is used for sawing thin boards and chipboard, for cutting curved parts, etc.

There is a hacksaw with a backing, which is used for cutting out small parts, when fitting joints, etc.

The blade of this hacksaw is very thin, therefore it is reinforced with a board along its entire length. Without such a device, it cannot hold the cutting direction and breaks.

Depending on the type of work performed, hacksaws with both wide and narrow blades, as well as coarse or fine teeth, may be required.

A planer is also essential when working with wood. With its help, an extra layer of wood is removed and the surface of the part is leveled (fig. 5). Planers are available with metal or wooden bodies, as well as with one or two blades.

Figure: 5. Planer

A plane with a metal body is mainly used for processing hardwood and chipboard, with a wooden body for basic work. The latter is much lighter than metal and does not require much muscle tension in the arms.