Spike dovetail markings. Do-it-yourself dovetail joint. How to make a cross connection

If you want to make furniture from solid wood, you will have to take certain measures against deformation of the wood. The list of such measures includes the selection of the appropriate connection.

There are a lot of ways to connect wood parts so that they do not deform in the future. One of the most effective is the dovetail. Parts are connected to each other in such a way that it is practically impossible to separate them without glue. Each thorn is clamped like a plier. The strength of the connection is further enhanced by the fact that the area of \u200b\u200bthe joining areas covered with glue is much larger here than with a simple connection without spikes.

In addition, the “dovetail” connection can rightfully be called decorative, since it can decorate any piece of furniture, of course, provided that all the teeth are made carefully and accurately. And this will require painstaking work with a saw and a chisel. All grooves and tenons must fit exactly together, and all fugues must be equally narrow. This accuracy is unlikely to be achievable the first time: try to gain experience with simple planks first.

Many interesting and beautiful examples Dovetail joints can be seen when looking at old furniture.

The dovetail joint is considered the most beautiful, reliable and durable corner joint. It is not easy to execute.

This is done like this

• Cut parts of the required length from the boards.
• On one of the boards, mark the spikes and grooves.
• Transfer the markings from the front face of the board to the butt and then to the back face.
• Saw through the grooves and cut them out with a chisel.
• Using the finished board, mark the location of the spikes and grooves on another board.
• After finishing the second board, try to connect both parts without glue and, if necessary, make corrections.
• Apply glue to the joints, carefully connect the parts and hold them under pressure until the glue sets.

WHAT DO YOU NEED

Materials:

Wood blanks Glue.

Tools:

• Ruler.
• Pencil.
• Awl or knife.
• Square.
• Tenon saw.
• Chisels of suitable width.
• Workbench.
• Clamps.
• A hammer.
• Mallet.

The shape of the grooves and spikes in the dovetail joint

The beauty of this box lies in the harmony of the material and the corresponding design using the dovetail connection.

Homemade spike bevel marker: cut a template from a thin sheet of metal and shape it.

Perform markings on parts that have the required length

Before marking the spikes and grooves, measure the part again, it must have the required width. If the width of the part is greater than it should be, then the markings will be inaccurate and, therefore, unusable.

Choose the right chisel

Before you start machining the grooves, check that the chisel you have is of the correct size. Take care of the right tool well in advance if you plan on making very thin pimples. Chisels come in various widths - from 4 to 40 mm.

The bar protects against damage

When connecting parts, never hit the wood directly with a mallet. Use a small block of wood to protect parts from damage.

More about the dovetail joint

When doing a dovetail joint, both parts are interlocked by means of a special tooth shape. The vertically standing board shown in the figure has spikes that drive into the grooves of the horizontally located board. It is possible to connect and disconnect the boards only with the vertical position of the spikes. Otherwise, this cannot be done.

The boards connected in this way react differently to the load. And therefore, it does not matter in which part the grooves are made, and in which spikes.

In drawers, spikes are made on the front board, grooves in the side walls. Since the greatest load on the box occurs when it is pulled out, the connection will be most durable precisely with this arrangement of the spikes.

In the hinged shelf, the maximum load is on the horizontal parts.

They should be with spikes that will hold curly grooves in vertically located parts.

The tenons should always be narrower than the grooves, especially when using dense and durable wood. The peculiarity of the “dovetail” connection is also that the spikes and grooves in the finished product look different than when unfolded - as shown in the figure below.

Even distribution

Products with dovetail corner joints are not covered with colored varnish. Therefore, the arrangement of the spikes and grooves must be uniform over the entire width of the parts. The outer spines may be slightly wider or narrower. All other cleats and grooves must be the same.

Dovetail tracing

Experienced carpenters can distribute the tines practically by hand. For those who are just starting to master this method of connecting parts, we recommend using a ruler.

For boards up to 15 cm wide, mark, for example, four thorns and three grooves or five thorns and four grooves. For boards up to 20 cm wide - five thorns and four grooves or six thorns and five grooves. An approximate distribution pattern is as follows: the ratio of the average stud thickness to the average groove width is 1: 2.

You can very accurately draw the spikes and their bevels according to the scheme shown in the figures on the right.

Other methods of division are also possible. You can choose, for example, a smaller stud width. In the so-called English joint, the spikes are very narrow and the grooves are wide. However, in any case, the pins should not be too chamfered to avoid damaging the narrow parts of the grooves.

Mark on the part parallel to the end edge of the thickness of the board, then half of the thickness and then draw a line, the distance to which from the end is equal to the thickness of the board, multiplied by three. To now accurately distribute the four spikes and three grooves, draw marks on the oblique auxiliary line, the distance between which is a multiple of 10. Then transfer this division to the marking line.

Here, the dashed lines show the middle lines of the grooves: the points of their intersection with the auxiliary line at a distance of "threefold thickness" of the board are very important for the final marking.

From the points of intersection of the middle lines of the grooves with the auxiliary line, draw lines through the points on the marking line "half the thickness of the board". In this way, the tenons and grooves will be precisely marked.

Markup

So, you have mapped out the spikes and grooves on the face of the board. Now you need to transfer the markings to the front side.

To do this, you need a square and a well-sharpened pencil, awl or knife. Depending on the type of wood, it may be useful or even necessary to cover the end side of the board with chalk: the markings will be more visible on a white background. From the front side, the markings are transferred to the back face of the board.

The markings will be more accurate if the part is fixed to the workbench.

Markings with symmetrical elements on one part should be applied at the same time, so that, for example, the contours of the spikes in the corners drawer coincided.

Using a sharply sharpened pencil (or awl) and a square, the marking lines are transferred from the front face to the end side of the board.

Cutting grooves

After transferring the marking lines, before starting to saw, shade the drop-down areas on the details - the gaps between the spikes. So you will not confuse anything with further cutting and working with a chisel.

The part should be fixed on the workbench in such a way that the marking lines of bevels parallel to each other take a strictly vertical position. This is not difficult to do if you use a square. First saw through the grooves on one side, then turn the part over, fix and saw through the remaining bevels of the grooves.

Place the saw not on the marking line, but close to it on the falling out section of wood. Check from time to time on both sides of the board to see if the saw is pointing correctly or the kerf needs to be corrected.

The grooves are cut with a chisel, which should be kept strictly vertical. In this case, the position of the part itself should be horizontal. It is possible to more accurately guide the chisel when another board is fixed on top of the part, the edge of which runs along the line for marking the depth of the grooves.

First, the grooves are processed with a chisel on one side of the part. After a notch is made about half the thickness of the board, it is turned over and the grooves are finished. This method avoids cracking of the board, as well as inaccuracies in groove processing.

Fix the part so that the marking lines take a strictly vertical position. Check with a square.

To cut grooves with a chisel, fix the parts horizontally on a workbench. The part must not slide.

Cut only sides with the same slope. Turn over and secure the part, saw through the other sides.

Thorns

Experienced carpenters prefer to make tenons first and then cut grooves on another board. But you can do otherwise: use the ready-made grooves in order to outline the spikes on another board.

It is also recommended to cover the end side with chalk so that the marking lines are not lost on a dark tree with eye-catching annual rings. The latter must be carried out very accurately. To do this, you can use an awl or a well-sharpened pencil.

Wrap Marking Lines

The marking lines from the end side of the board to the front and back surfaces are transferred strictly at right angles to the end. The length of the spikes depends on the thickness of the grooved board. These lines must also be perfectly accurate. It is better to mark the depth of the spikes not using a board with grooves, but by measuring the length of the spikes from the end edge, transfer these dimensions to the corresponding part. Otherwise, the thorns may be longer than necessary.

When marking, keep in mind that the front should be the best side of the board, and the marking lines should be as accurate as possible.

It is advisable to cover the highlander of dark wood parts with chalk so that the marking lines are better visible, and the cuts are more accurate.

Compound

To cut thorns into the parts, it is again firmly clamped, but this time the position of the board should be strictly vertical, as well as the cuts, which only slightly beveled in a different plane to the left and to the right.

Fixing a part

To make cuts, the saw is also installed close to the marking line on the falling out section of wood. After completing the work with the saw, the part is fixed on the workbench in a horizontal position and proceeds to the processing of intermediate sections between the spikes with a chisel. As in the case of grooving, the notch is made only in half the thickness of the board, after which the part is turned over and the "excess" wood is removed from the opposite side. In this case, you can slightly correct the cuts if there is more than necessary between the wood marking lines.

First make cuts only on the left or right side of the cleats, then parallel cuts on the other side.

After removing the intermediate sections between the cleats, carefully trim the cuts with a chisel.

Gluing

Before evenly and thinly applying glue to all pins and grooves, lightly sand the surfaces to be bonded with sandpaper, without rounding the edges. Then try joining the pieces without glue. You will immediately see if they fit together and what else can be fixed.

Carefully join the boards together so that the spikes and grooves do not split. Be aware that grooves are especially prone to cracking.

The glue is applied evenly in a thin layer over the entire surface of the thorn. To do this, use the spout of a bottle of glue or a thin brush.

Joiner's putty will help correct mistakes

With an ideal connection of the spikes and grooves, all butt joints are very tight, without the slightest gaps, which not only reduce the strength of the connection, but also spoil appearance products. However, even experienced carpenters do not always achieve perfect results, so you should not be discouraged if the connection in some places needs fixing.

Proceed as follows. Spread a plastic sheet under the workbench and shake off the sawdust on it. Use sawdust and glue to make a joiner's putty to help you make minor adjustments.

Although ready-made joiner's putties and mastics of all kinds of colors are on sale, homemade putty has advantages: it contains sawdust of the wood with which you are currently working, that is, this putty will fully match the tone of your product.

It is necessary to apply the putty carefully, in small portions, filling only the gaps. It is better to compact and level the filled areas with a chisel blade rather than a spatula.

Homemade putty can help you fix errors such as chipped chips or inaccuracies.

Template

Wedge shaped pins can be cut quickly and accurately with a cutter using a special drill bit and template. In this case, in the course of one working operation, two parts are processed at once, installed with a slight offset to each other. True, their connection differs markedly from the dovetail connection made in the traditional way, since when machining parts, all spikes and grooves are the same. For this reason, the connection cannot be considered decorative, but it is also beautiful in its own way, and most importantly, very reliable. The distribution of pins and grooves in such a connection depends on the size of the cutter used.

You can quickly cut thorns with a cutter if you use a special drill bit.

This is how a template is used for cutting thorns with a cutter fixed in a drill.

How to make a spike box connection hand tool.
Multi-stud box joints are classic carpentry technologies. They are still used today in the production of quality furniture. Of course, in our time, simpler and faster methods of assembling boxes are more often used. I myself usually collect boxes on self-tapping screws, but I will write about this in another article. Here I propose to remember how it was done from time immemorial with a hand tool.

Actually, the questions of making spikes by hand sometimes arise if you do not have special tools and devices at hand. And it makes no sense to buy an expensive machine for a one-time job. True, you need to understand in advance, manual work requires care and accuracy.

From the tools you will need a hacksaw-reward, a set of chisels, a mallet. For marking, a pencil and a metal ruler. The reward differs from a conventional hacksaw not only by a small tooth, but also by a special "back" plate on the upper edge of the saw. This pad provides additional rigidity to the web.

Spikes can be made self-gripping, i.e. Dovetail or straight. It is better to start with straight lines, the dovetail can be used when some experience appears. The details of the box in the photo are made of MDF, but this is not important, wood blanks are processed in the same way.

1. Let's start by marking the ends of the parts. Drawer slats 100 mm wide. divided into five equal parts. Divide them into 20/20 mm squares. , then we will match the ends of the parts and shade the squares through one with a pencil.

That is, a clean square should be located opposite the shaded one. When making the thorns, we need to remove the painted areas.

2. For the convenience of work, the part must be clamped vertically. If you do not have a joinery workbench, then fix the part with two clamps to the work table. To do this, clamp a wooden block on the edge of the table with one clamp, and pull the part to the block with the other.

3. We cut out the thorns along the markings, and note that you need to cut not along the line, but so that the marking lines remain to the side of the saw. If the cuts are made exactly along the line, then the spikes will be loose and the assembly of the box will become a problem. We'll have to glue veneer or chips into the gaps, in general, hemorrhoids and poor-quality work. We are cutting out the areas we have filled with a pencil, so the saw should be inside the shaded sector. We make the cuts to the marking depth, in this case 20 mm.

4. With a chisel or a cutter, we select the segments between the cuts.

We take out the part from the clamp and place it flat on the table. With a chisel we align the shoulders between the thorns. In order not to spoil the table, it is better to put a planed board or a piece of plywood under the workpiece. You might need a hammer, look.

5. When all the spikes are sawn and finished, we carry out the initial assembly. If the spikes do not fit into place during assembly, it's okay, you need to adjust the parts using a chisel or a cutter (knife). For a high-quality assembly, fractions of a millimeter matter, therefore, for an accurate fit, it is better to work on the spikes with a file or a large sandpaper on a long bar.

Once I had to make not only boxes on spikes, but also knit wooden window frames using a hand tool. There, the principles of work are the same, the spikes and lugs were first cut out according to the markings with a saw - a reward, and then he cut out the excess in the lugs with a chisel.

If you need to make a lot of boxes with a spike connection, then it is better to think about purchasing an electric tool. Such thorns can be made hand milling cutter installed in the "table", or on a small stationary circular with a variable saw height. For both options, you will need to make a device for accurate cuts. But it seems to me that making such a device is no more difficult than manually preparing parts for several boxes.

The reliability and aesthetics of complex wood structures largely depend on the right choice the way of connecting its constituent parts. This is especially true for frame products, supporting structures, where safety parameters come to the fore.

Quality connection wooden parts - the guarantee of durability, the basis for an attractive appearance of the product, an indicator of the skill and professionalism of a carpenter and joiner.

Choice of connection type

In general, there are a huge number of types of joints of wooden blanks, so you can only talk about some of them, the most common.

One of the most simple ways build up a wooden part (timber, log, board), increase its width is the end connection. There are several options for its implementation. A simple and functional half-thickness (half-tree) method is often used. Depending on the expected load on the part, the cut can be flat or oblique. In some cases, the joint is strengthened with curly cutouts - locks. This type of connection prevents stretching, twisting, bending. So the beam is spliced \u200b\u200btogether for the purpose of lengthening.

Creation of volumetric frames or wooden frames requires reliable connections at various angles. In this case, it is rational to use a thorn-groove or thorn-eye connection. The nodes at the junction of the parts withstand the load of displacement, bending and compression. If the structure requires high tensile strength, the cutouts are trapezoidal.

Additional connections of frame products, which impart rigidity to the structure, are realized using T-shaped or cruciform connections. The main stress at the joints is compression, displacement and rupture. IN special cases the structure is additionally reinforced with metal corners, screws or nails.

It is convenient to use a special box groove to connect the boards to each other in box structures at right angles. As the name implies, this method is often used to create three-dimensional structures, including furniture boxes. A well-made box joint looks monolithic, has an attractive appearance and withstands impressive loads. When creating wooden furniture, they often use a connection on dowels, dowels and dominoes (when the groove has an oblong shape, as opposed to a round dowel).

Spike connection (spike-groove)

The simplest and one of the most reliable is the tongue-and-groove connection. It is widely used in carpentry... In a similar way, wooden parts of window frames are assembled into a single whole, a variety of cabinet furniture parts, plywood sheets are made. The essence of this method is that a spike is made at the end of one part to be connected, which is inserted into the groove of another part and fixed in it.

For work, it is convenient to use a special lamellar cutter; in the absence of one, you can get by with a simple hand tool. You will need:

• hand-held butt saw with fine teeth;
• electric or hand drill;
• several chisels of different widths;
• sandpaper;
• measuring tool, square and pencil.

First, the blanks are marked. The parameters of the spike and groove depend on the parameters of the wooden parts and the configuration of the product, however, it is worth considering a few general recommendations.

Important! The thickness of the spike should be about a third of the thickness of the part, the width should be 70-80% of the width, the length should be equal to the thickness of the workpiece being joined.

The groove parameters must also meet these criteria. In any case, it is important to ensure that the dimensions of the tongue and groove match. The parts should be connected easily, without pressure, but not fall out under their own weight. There should be no backlash, cracks and distortion.

The groove is cut first, this sequence is caused by the fact that the tenon is much easier to fit under the groove than vice versa. With the help of a saw, cuts are made, excess wood is removed with a drill, the bottom of the groove and the walls are leveled with chisels.

In most cases, only wood glue is enough to fix the parts; screws or nails will help to ensure maximum strength.

Half-tree connection

Quite often in carpentry they use different options half-wood joints (simple or straight lock). This type of assembly of wooden structures is characterized by ease of manufacture and high reliability... There are the following varieties:

• cross connection;
• half a tree - dovetail;
• gusset;
• on a mustache;
• splicing in half a tree.

The first two methods are used to connect parts that intersect at right angles. Particularly popular is the dovetail, in which the neckline is a trapezoid and the sides are not at right angles. The slot of the lock expands slightly from the end, providing a more secure fit. It should be noted that spike connection can also be called a dovetail if the thorns are cut in the form of trapezoids.

The second and third modes form a complete corner. Splicing is used if necessary to increase the length of the workpiece.

How to make a cross connection

One of the simplest is the cross connection. It is distinguished by its simplicity of manufacture, even a novice carpenter can master its wisdom. The work is done in the following order:

• markup is done. The parts to be joined are superimposed on each other. Use a ruler to draw a cut line. A thickness gauge is used to mark the thickness;
• the first part is clamped in a vice. With a hand saw, carefully, along the lines, a cut is made to the mark left by the thickness gauge. The workpiece turns. The second cut is made;
• the workpiece is removed from the vice. Using a sharp chisel and a wooden mallet, part of the wood is removed between the cuts;
• the second part is processed;
• the planes are leveled with sandpaper or an abrasive bar.

Now you can join the wooden pieces. The connection must be tight, without backlash and gaps. If the product is one-piece, the joints are coated with wood glue, the structure is additionally reinforced with screws.

Forming mustache corners

One of better ways creating corners of various volumetric products is a mustache joint. It allows you to create a monolithic structure, hide the fibers of the end, thereby providing an attractive look. This method is suitable for a wide variety of products, but is most often used for the manufacture of frames and cabinet furniture parts.

To create a connection in each of the wooden parts, cuts are made at an angle equal to half the angle at which the blanks meet. Most often, this angle is straight, therefore, the cuts are performed at 45 degrees, however, the angle can vary widely. The work is performed according to the following algorithm.

First, the details are marked. It is important not to forget that the markings are carried out on the long side, otherwise you may not guess with the dimensions.

On the edges to be connected, draw a line at the required angle. With a combined square, the markings are transferred to each side of the workpiece. Then a cut is made, for which it is better to use an electric miter saw, but you can also work with a hand tool. When working with a hacksaw, it is important to control the angle of the cut; it will be useful to use a bar as a guide.

The finished parts are applied to each other, checking the accuracy of the fit. Irregularities will have to be smoothed out with a hand plane, to bring the angle with the help of a sandpaper. Joiner's glue is applied to both surfaces, and the product is fixed with clamps. Additional strength can be achieved with studs. When working with a hammer, it is important to control the force of the impact so that the workpieces do not move.

Particularly critical connections are reinforced with bars that are glued into inner corner... A joint that will not be visible can be additionally reinforced with a metal square.

As a result of well-done work, you will get a perfect seam. If a small gap has formed, then it can be hidden by straightening the adjacent wood fibers using a smooth cylindrical surface. To do this, use the stem of an ordinary screwdriver.

Thorn in the eyelet

Corner and T-joints (example: T-joint window frame) crossing is conveniently performed by the tongue-and-groove method. In this case, the eyelet is made at the end of the vertical part, the cuts for the thorn are made in its horizontal component.

Work begins with marking the eyelet. The thickness of the workpiece is divided by three. With a thin hacksaw, cuts are made to a depth equal to the width of another workpiece. With the help of chisels, excess wood is removed, the walls of the eyelet are leveled with sandpaper.

The second workpiece is marked out. The width of the tenon should be equal to the width of the first workpiece, the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the tenon. The cuts are made with a hand hacksaw, the depth and angle of inclination are carefully controlled. The excess is removed with a chisel.

The final finishing in thickness is performed using sandpaper. The parts should be connected with light effort and not fall apart under their own weight.

Thorn in the socket

More complex connection is the way to spike into a socket. It requires more skill, but is much more reliable and durable. The scope of use is the same as in the previous case, namely, T-joints. The difference between this method is that the spike is made at the end of the vertical part, a socket is cut out in the body of the horizontal part.

This is one of the most common furniture connections. Distinguish between connection with a through thorn and a blind. The difference is that in the first case, a through socket is cut, in the second, a slot is made to a certain depth.

Features of Japanese joinery

Japanese craftsmen have reached unprecedented heights of carpentry. Using traditional techniques, combining different types connections, they create precise and reliable joints without the use of nails and other fasteners. The joining of various wooden parts is carried out solely due to the frictional force.

The reliability of these connections is based on an accurate cut. Perfectly matched lock lines on both mating parts create a connection with impeccable precision. Complex configurations of locks require a lot of experience, knowledge and ability to own the tool, but if you wish, you can learn all this.

Pulling boards together

Quality wood is expensive, buy good board with the necessary parameters is not always possible, and not always necessary. To make, for example, a tabletop, it is not at all necessary to look for a board the width of a table, having the skills of carpentry, you can create the perfect wooden canvas with the required parameters.

There are many options for rallying. A board with a spike and a groove, the so-called lining, is widespread. It allows you to create even wooden surfaces large area. A simplified version of it is often used - a board with a quarter joint.

Rallying on a smooth puffer (butt)

The easiest way that does not require additional elements. The side edges of the boards are planted, it is better to do this in pairs, clamping both adjacent boards in a vice and simultaneously processing them. Such processing will create a precise surface on which the unevenness of one board will be compensated by the unevenness of the other. Both boards are coated with glue and fixed until it hardens completely.

Merging load-bearing elements

Extend (build up) the board that is part supporting structure in several ways. The simplest and most reliable is a half-wood connection with subsequent overlay on the junction of the reinforcing strips. Non-critical areas can be reinforced with plywood.

The same method is used for joining the boards at different angles. Precisely made cuts of the articulated parts make it possible to do without reinforcing linings, it is enough to fix the boards at the junction with screws.

Cutting without residue means that the laid logs will form an even corner, their ends will not protrude beyond the structure, a separate variety of it is a warm corner. The cut with the remainder, in turn, means that an interlacing of protruding ends will form at the corners of the building. The second method is more costly in terms of the amount of material, but the building retains heat better and is more stable.

There are various ways to connect wood parts, the ability to determine the optimal one for a particular type of work will significantly diversify the range of products that a master can make. A correctly chosen method will provide an attractive appearance to the product and guarantee the reliability of the volumetric structure.

What is dovetail joint

Fig 8. Dovetail connection.

• a - the distance between the spikes
• b - thorn width
• в - groove width
• g - interval (one third of the thorn width)

One of the strongest and most beautiful connections in the construction of wooden houses is the “dovetail”. In it, all the parts hold to each other very firmly, you don't even need to use glue. Each of the structural parts tightly grips the spikes of the other, and displacement does not occur. The joint area is also quite large, often larger than other stud joint designs.

Fig. 9. Varieties of the "dovetail" connection

• a - open connection
• b - semi-secret connection
• c - semi-secret machine-made connection

"Dovetail" is a spike connection that is performed in a specific order. Preparatory part: you need to measure the workpieces, then mark the grooves and spikes, providing for the mandatory bevels. Then the markings must be transferred from the wider side to the end of the part and then to the opposite side.

After that, the grooves should be sawed and cut out with a chisel. With the help of a pre-prepared board, they mark out the places where spikes and grooves are planned on another board. The latter along the inner edges are cleaned at an angle to prevent the tree from splitting. Upon completion of your actions, you need to connect both parts without glue. If necessary, fix the structure, glue the parts by pressing them so that the glue dries better.

The dovetail connection provides for the engagement of parts with specially shaped teeth. The spikes are driven into special grooves that are located on the edged board (horizontally located). The boards can only be connected and disconnected when the tenons are vertical, otherwise it is impossible. The types and methods of dovetail joints differ only in the shape of the spines (Fig. 9).

These connections are used only for those parts that are not coated with colored varnish and paints. Therefore, the spikes and grooves of the product must be evenly spaced along its entire width and must be identical (except for the extreme ones). This will ensure a good connection quality.

Fig. 10. Marking of the dovetail joint

• a - c - execution sequence

To mark the joint correctly, the bevels of the dovetail spikes must be precisely matched. The sequence of operations (Fig. 10) during this work must be strictly observed (in particular, when drawing). First, at the attachment point, mark the thickness of the adjacent part on the blank board, then mark half of this length and the line to which the distance is three times greater than the thickness of this part. If it will be necessary in the future to make the surface of the workpiece for three grooves and four spikes, it is necessary to mark the line, which serves as an auxiliary one. This distance should be divisible by 10. The figure of the distance that we received, in division units, must be transferred to the marking line (Fig. 10, a).

The next stage: with light strokes, mark the middle lines on the workpiece where the grooves will be located. At this stage, the middle lines of the grooves are marked with dashed lines on the workpiece (Fig. 10, b). And in conclusion, auxiliary lines are also drawn from the points of intersection of the middle lines to the auxiliary marking line through the points on the line "half the thickness of the board" (Fig. 10, c).

To mark the bevels of the spikes, you can use a sheet of metal, for example, tin, and make a blank out of it (Fig. 11). For this purpose, the craftsman cuts out the appropriate shape, trims the edges, processes the surface, if necessary (for example, to remove rust).

Fig. 11. Device for marking the bevels of the tenons

After the marking lines are transferred, you need to shade the drop-out areas on the product, and also mark the gaps between the spikes so as not to confuse what to cut out and what not. This will come in very handy when using a chisel. And then you can start sawing.

First, those areas are sawn where the slope is the same, and then the part is turned over and its other edges are sawed. On all sides, it is necessary to periodically check whether the blade is guided correctly and whether the cut needs to be corrected. When the grooves are cut, the chisel needs to be held only vertically, and the part at this time should be attached to the workbench in a strictly horizontal position.

First, you need to make grooves with a chisel on one side of the board, approximately to its middle. Then you need to turn the board over and make grooves on the other side of it. First, according to the rules, it is better to make thorns, then start making grooves on another board. You can do it differently: first make the grooves, then use them to mark the spikes on the other side of the board, the end one. This way you will not lose the markings on dark wood material.

To connect the parts together, you need to grip them firmly, always vertically. The cuts must be made so that they are parallel to the length of the board. Light mowing to the right and left is allowed. Before applying the glue to the surface, sandpaper it, except for the edges, which should not be rounded.

Then you should connect the boards in such a way that the grooves and spikes cannot split. To connect wood parts, you need to use a mallet (Fig. 12). It is important to avoid direct hits to the wood product. It is worth using a separate bar in order to protect the parts from damage and cracks.

Fig. 12. Using a mallet when joining wooden parts

After completing the connection of parts with the help of spikes, you need to correct mistakes with joiner's putty. It must be distributed over the slots, and not over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe corner joint. Therefore, it is better to use a chisel than a large trowel. It is better to press the putty in those places where correction is needed, and not in all. Instead of chisels and saws, today most carpenters use special machinery to cut through complex types of thorns. There are also certain types of groove cutters. If you equip it with a special guiding device, you get perfect notches in the wood with an even distribution.

Fig 13. Preventing splitting of grooves in the dovetail joint

• 1 - bevels
• 2 - additional bar

There are also effective ways in order to cut grooves using metal templates. They are used by attaching them to a drill. To prevent the grooves from splitting, small bevels are made to connect the "dovetail". They are performed along the edges on the inner area of \u200b\u200bthe thorns. The process of gluing the dovetail joint must be done sequentially. An additional plank is also required here. It will help to correctly distribute the load - only the connecting grooves will receive it. This will help prevent damage to the cleats (fig. 13).

It is believed that the dovetail lock has sea roots; the dovetail was used to fasten ships with a wooden hull. Such a compound turned out to be the most resistant to wood wetting and multidirectional loads caused by sea waves. The main advantage of the technology is the reliable joining of wooden parts without the use of additional fasteners, the reliability of fastening is provided by the lock of the original trapezoidal shape. The ship's carpenters' tool included a special dovetail saw.

Traditionally in Russia, the crowns of a log house were placed "in a bowl", such a grip was cut with an ax. With the advent of good-quality carpentry tools, they began to lay the log house "in a paw", the connection had a rectangular spike. A further development of this lock was the use of a dovetail spike with a trapezoidal profile.

The dovetail technology for fixing the timber has become the main one in industrial housing construction, standard sizes and connection features are determined by GOST 30974-2002. The introduction of the standard has created favorable conditions for the development of low-rise housing construction, domestic wooden houses of industrial production are not inferior in quality to Finnish models.

The standard establishes the types of carpentry joints in the dovetail:

• Paw joint;
• Deaf "frying pan";
• Open frying pan;
• Fastening with a trapezoidal key.

A distinctive feature of these types of fastening is the tenon-groove design, which has a trapezoidal shape with a straight base.

Fastening a bar "in a paw" is the easiest way to build a log house, a reliable grip is provided by a trapezoidal spike, which is cut in the end part of each row of the crown. A correctly made and assembled lock reliably fixes the crowns of the log house in all planes. The fastening is universal, it is used for the construction of a log house from a bar and rounded logs, the connection "in a paw" is most often used in construction for shrinkage.

The design is distinguished by the absence of ends protruding beyond the corners of the structure; such a lock is called a "clean corner". The spike in such a structure is a supporting element and carries the main load. For building a log house in a "clean corner", it is recommended to use a beam of maximum standard sizes, with a side of at least 250 mm.

It is quite difficult to carry out dovetail fasteners with your own hands, in order to avoid mistakes, use a full-size dovetail thorn template for a bar, the sample can be cut out of tin or thick paper. The template is applied to the end and outlined, the boundaries of the cuts are marked with a hammer and chisel. The cuts are made by hand circular saw... The easiest way is to make inclined cuts every 10-15 mm, squeeze the trimmings with an ax and clean up with a chisel.

The advantage of the technology is the ability to work with timber of natural moisture, in this case the spike is made with an allowance of 5-7%. The allowance will lead to the formation of gaps between the crowns, which in the process of shrinkage will be eliminated naturally.

Disadvantages and features of the dovetail connection:

• A "clean corner" has through slots that can expand over time;
• The log house does not have closed crowns, on each wall the masonry is shifted by half a beam, the structure must be reinforced with dowels;
• The corners of the building are unpresentable and do not decorate the facade;
• The developer is limited in the choice of lumber standard size.

Dovetail blockhouse technology is used to build country houses economy class, baths and outbuildings, such construction is low-cost and affordable for a mass developer.

Deaf frying pan

This method in construction practice allows you to take full advantage of the advantages of a trapezoidal fastening, a feature of which is a secret T-shaped tongue-and-groove connection. The size of the thorn does not exceed half a bar and is completely recessed into the body of the bar. The corner of the house, assembled using this technology, is called "warm corner". The lock provides reliable adhesion to the crown without through slots; when treated with construction sealant, it creates a completely sealed space. In the same way, a timber is built up if its length is less than the length of the wall.

The profile is cut according to the drawing using a circular saw and a butt saw. A rectangular blank for a tenon and a groove is cut with a circular, the given shape is given a special hand saw... You can use a hand cutter to cut the groove, workplace easy to equip yourself.

Advantages of the technology of fastening a deaf "frying pan":

• Improved thermal insulation of the building;
• You can use lumber of any standard size;
• The castle is "hidden", the facade is getting an attractive look;
• During construction, you can use a beam with a smaller profile;
• Provides an economical use of building material.

The main feature is the increased requirement for wood moisture content - lumber must have a moisture content of no more than 20%. The technology is widely used by manufacturers finished houses "Full construction".

Open frying pan

This method is used in the construction of internal partitions from a bar, laying logs for the floor and ceiling slabs... The groove is cut to the full width of the timber. The lock resembles a “claw” connection in a T-shaped version and provides fixation of the structure in the horizontal plane. This mount is simple, can be cut with a circular saw and processed with a chisel.

A simplified version of the frying pan lock is a profile in the form of a rectangular trapezoid, the fasteners are called semi-rotary. Designed for damp woods, this type of mount is popular with individual builders.

Binding with a trapezoidal key

The dovetail connection scheme was further developed in a keyway. The butterfly key, formed by two trapezoidal shapes, is made from hardwood. The groove is cut on modern milling machines... At the dovetail keyed connection, the fastening dimensions are minimized, but this design ensures reliable fastening of wooden structures of any complexity, and allows the production of wood products to be put on stream.

Key technology features:

• Requires precise processing of wood using modern technology and devices;
• Minimizes resource and material consumption;
• Retains the attractive appearance of wood grain;
• Allows to manufacture wooden structures of any complexity.

Keying is used by manufacturers of ready-made wooden houses made of expensive laminated veneer lumber and allows you to implement the most complex house projects.

Conclusion

Dovetail joining in house building is a reliable way of fastening wooden parts. With the advent of modern carpentry tools, this technology has become available for mass use. Such a mount is widely used in interior decoration and in the manufacture of small architectural forms. In a miniature version, such fasteners are used in the manufacture of furniture.