Low-rise construction, when it comes to residential buildings, implies the construction of at least two-level buildings. Therefore, to move to the second floor, an internal staircase is indispensable. The purchase of a ready-made kit, firstly, will be quite expensive (at least 35,000 rubles), and secondly, it must be adapted before installation and adapted to specific premises, or engaged in their reconstruction (redevelopment). And this is additional costs and time.

In most cases, it is more expedient to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, especially since it will turn out about the same in terms of time. The simplest and most inexpensive option is wood construction. This article will explain in detail all the nuances of choosing lumber, drawing up a drawing of a staircase and the features of its assembly.

With regard to a private house, two are most common - a spiral staircase and a march staircase. The first option is rather complicated, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to implement it with your own hands, without practical skills and experience in this area. You will have to do specific engineering calculations, which means that you cannot do without the help of a professional at least at this stage of preparation. It is not entirely correct to focus only on the schemes available on the Internet. They do not take into account the specifics of a particular structure, so they will definitely have to be processed, taking into account the peculiarities of its dimensions, layout and a number of other factors. And the installation of a spiral staircase itself, especially a wooden one, is far from simple process.

For DIY assembly the optimal solution is a marching wooden staircase... Based on the height of the ground floor room, there can be one or two spans (rotary structure).

But in details, even completely identical stairs can be very different. And this is easily explained by the fact that making with your own hands implies an element of creativity. Since all private houses differ in many parameters (dimensions, ceiling heights, layout, internal content), then following some single standard is a futile business. By the way, the author has already drawn the attention of the reader to this. Therefore, hereinafter - only general recommendations that will help to correctly draw up a drawing of a wooden staircase, taking into account all the structural features, and install it in place.

general information

There are several options for the execution of mid-flight stairs. Their main varieties are shown in the figures below. It is not difficult to decide which modification to choose for do-it-yourself installation, knowing all the features of the house and the premises of the first and second floors.

When describing any product or prefabricated structure, you cannot do without special terminology. The following pictures explain well what the main elements of the staircase are called.

Preparation of materials

  • When choosing a wood species, if you focus on a reasonable combination of quality / price, it is recommended to give preference to pine or larch. The latter is even better, since it is less prone to rotting. In addition, as the liquid is absorbed, it only becomes stronger. Since there will certainly be fumes in any living room, it is more than relevant, especially if there is a kitchen in the adjacent room. All other species - cedar, oak and a number of others - are unlikely to belong to budget options wooden stairs.
  • The durability of the structure largely depends on the degree of drying of the lumber. If the wood in this regard is not sufficiently processed, then such a ladder will "lead" rather quickly. Drying boards with your own hands is both troublesome and complex. You will need not only a place for their storage, but also knowledge of all the features of the technique. We'll have to ensure the constant temperature, high-quality ventilation, and so on. The conclusion suggests itself unambiguous - it is impractical to save on material for a wooden staircase. That is, if you buy boards, then only a high degree of drying, although they are more expensive.

Calculation of the main parameters of the stairs

Width

When determining this parameter, one should be guided by such moments. First, whether it will be convenient to move up the stairs at the same time, towards each other. Secondly, will it be possible to transfer oversized loads from floor to floor (furnishings, household appliances and so on). For a private house recommended width of the internal staircase - 130 ± 20.

Ladder height

When calculating this parameter, inexperienced "home craftsmen" are guided by the ceiling of the room on the first floor. This is not true. When drawing up a drawing of a staircase, not only this parameter is taken into account, but also the total thickness of the floor and the floor of the second room (together with finishing). That is, the last step should be on the same level with it.

Span height

This refers to the distance between the steps and the second floor overlap (ceiling). It is clear that moving up the stairs, constantly bending your head down is not an option to save space. Basically, masters are guided by 200. This is enough, since rarely anyone's height exceeds this value.

The steepness of a wooden staircase

The optimal slope is considered to be 40 ± 5º. Exceeding this value will complicate the ascent to the second floor for elderly people, young children, and also for those whose physical capabilities are limited for some reason. But the flatter design also has a number of disadvantages. The consumption of wood increases, and the space for its installation will require much more. Here you need to choose the most appropriate option for a particular house.

Steps

  • Tread. You should focus on the 45th size of a person's foot, then everyone will be comfortable walking up the stairs. Based on this, the recommended step width is within 28 ± 2.
  • Riser. The optimal value, regardless of design features wooden stairs, 18 ± 2. It will be convenient for both children and a tall person to move along it.
  • Number of steps. Calculation is required here. The distance between adjacent ones is determined simply - the thickness of their board + riser. When a fractional value is obtained, it is rounded to the nearest whole value. It remains only to divide the height of the stairs by it.

What to consider:

  • The dimensions of all steps of the main staircase must be identical. That is, it is enough to make calculations for only one.
  • If there are more than 18 steps, it is recommended to provide a platform in the staircase design (hence, at least 2 flights). It is called differently - observation, rotary, intermediate - but you need to mount it. Another question - where exactly should it be located - strictly in the center of the span, closer to the top of the stairs? It is worth thinking here, taking into account the peculiarities of the house and the convenience of moving to the second floor.

Ladder length

This is the last step in the calculation. Initial data - step parameters and their number. As practice shows, when independently drawing up a drawing of a staircase, it often does not fit in its estimated length to the premises of the first floor. How to proceed? There are several options:

  • Add one march. This decision is more difficult, since you will have to mount an additional platform, and, therefore, re-perform the basic calculations.
  • Provide in the construction of the stairs several turning (run-in) steps. The option is simpler and more convenient for doing it yourself. It is he who is most often implemented.

Features of mounting a wooden staircase

Regardless of its design, all basic technological operations are identical. If you understand the nuances of building a one-march staircase, then assembling it according to any other scheme will not be difficult.

Specificity of preparation of components

Steps. For them, segments of the board are selected that do not have any defects in the form of chips, cracks, curvatures. Their recommended thickness, taking into account the expected loads, is 35 ± 5. It is no longer advisable, since both material consumption and the total weight of the structure increase. Less undesirable for safety reasons of moving up the stairs (taking into account the carried loads).

At the stage of preparing the steps, it is necessary to round off the sharp edges of the fragments of the boards in order to eliminate the risk of injury. In addition, their front surface and ends must be carefully sanded - no chips, burrs, and so on. It will come in handy here. The length of the steps is chosen depending on the chosen scheme of a wooden staircase. But their protrusions beyond the stringers by more than 3 (cm) are undesirable.

Risers. They are not load-bearing elements and often only play a decorative role. Here you can save a little on them by using a board for 10 or 15. By the way, some wooden stairs are assembled without them. Such structures look even more impressive, and, in addition, cleaning of spans is greatly simplified.

Kosoura. These are the supporting elements for the entire staircase, so the lumber for them should be chosen especially carefully. Special attention is paid to the equality of all parameters. Both kosour should be like "twin brothers", otherwise the staircase after assembly will turn out to be asymmetric, with distortions, curvatures and so on. The figures show some options for kosour.

The feasibility of making fencing elements with your own hands is questionable. It is good if it is possible to process balusters, handrails on machine equipment. Otherwise, it is better to purchase ready-made samples. Considering that it is they (especially with a side view) that are most striking, such costs are quite justified.

The nuances of installing a wooden staircase

Fastening the stringers. Fixing the extreme on the wall is possible only if the base is strong enough (a house made of brick, timber, and so on). In other cases, the entire staircase is mounted on racks.

To prevent the lower part from moving, a support bar is installed on the ground floor. The top of the span is fixed in the floor itself (you will need to make a cutout in the beam along its width) or "fastened" to it with anchor bolts. The stringers themselves must also be fastened together so that they are not "led" in the process of wood drying. For example, like this.

Risers. If it is decided to use them in the staircase scheme, then they are attached to the stringers.

Steps. In order not to be mistaken, their installation begins from the bottom of the structure. Side mounts - on support beams, if there are risers, then at least at one point (in the center) on them.

Balusters. At first, only two are mounted - the upper and the lower. A cord is pulled between them. Guided by it, it is easy to install along the spans of the stairs and align all the rest.

Fastening handrails. When it comes to a wooden staircase, this a priori does not mean that these elements must also be made of wood. Making them out of it with your own hands is quite difficult. This requires not only experience, but also the appropriate tool. Handrail options are plastic or metal.

The final stage

After checking the symmetry of the structure, the reliability of all connections, a number of measures are taken:

  • Grinding of all structural parts.
  • Impregnation with special / compounds (from fire, rot, wood-boring insects).
  • Surface decoration. The painting option is not for a private home. It is advisable to treat the stairs with a tinting compound, and on top or with a wax-containing solution. But this is at the discretion of the owner, depending on the general style of decoration of the room.

The second floor allows you to significantly increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe house without increasing the space it occupies, but it is impossible to get to the second floor without a staircase. In this article, we will talk about the different options for stairs that are used in brick, stone, block or wooden houses, and also describe the sequence of steps for building a simple but beautiful single-flight staircase with decorative railings.

Types of stairs

All the stairs connecting the first and second floors can be roughly divided by:

  1. Span type:
    • one-march;
    • multi-march.
  2. Form:
    • straight;
    • screw;
    • corner;
    • curly.
  3. Material:
    • wooden;
    • metal;
    • combined.

Choosing the type of stairs

The choice of the type of staircase is influenced by many factors, such as the height of the floor, the ability to create complex structures from various materials, the presence free space around the future stairs and many others. If you decide to make a ladder yourself, then first of all you should evaluate your skills as a carpenter and a welder, this will help you choose the material from which the ladder will be made. If you are a good welder, you can make a ladder of any complexity out of metal and any other materials. If you are a good carpenter, you can build wooden stairs of any complexity. Not all people have such talents, so do not despair if you do not know how to cook or do carpentry properly, this will not prevent you from creating a simple, but beautiful and reliable staircase connecting the first and second floors.

Having decided on the material from which you will build the stairs, proceed to the choice of its design. Below we give a list of the basic requirements that must be taken into account when choosing the type and size of the stairs, this will allow not only to build it, but also to make the staircase comfortable and safe:

  • staircase angle of 30-45 degrees;
  • if there is a cover above the ladder, then the distance from any step to it should be the same and be 2–2.2 meters; if there is no cover, then the distance to any obstacle at any point should not be less than 2 meters;
  • the railings must be rigidly fixed, and their height is 80–100 cm;
  • the optimal staircase width is 1 meter;
  • the optimal step depth is 30 cm;
  • the optimal step height is 15 cm;
  • there must be sufficient free space (at least 2m²) in front of the lower and upper steps of the stairs.

One of the main parameters that influences the choice of the type of stairs is the angle of its ascent, which is 30–45 degrees (optimally 40 degrees). At an angle of 45 degrees, the length of the space occupied by the staircase will be equal to the height of the floor plus 1–2 meters. Additional distance is necessary to make the ladder convenient to use, because you will not only have to walk on it, but also bring in furniture. If there is such free space - optimal choice - one-flight staircase. Its advantage is its small width - with a step width of 1 meter, the width of the staircase on the outer side of the railing does not exceed 120 cm.If there is no free space of this length, you will have to build a multi-flight, spiral or corner staircase, which are much more difficult to manufacture. In addition, the width of the free space for spiral or multi-flight stairs is approximately 2.5 times the width of the steps, and the length of each flight with spans reaches the height of the floor. The width of the spiral staircase is 2.5–3.5 meters, this is due to the need to use wider steps, moreover, it is the most difficult and expensive to manufacture.

Construction of a wooden one-flight staircase

Below we will describe the construction of a staircase with a step width of 1 meter, an elevation angle of 45 degrees and a height from the ground floor to the second floor floor of 3 meters. Such a staircase provides a comfortable and safe climb to the second floor, looks very nice and is relatively easy to manufacture. It can be installed both in a brick or stone, and in a wooden house with wooden floors first and second floors. You can purchase all the materials for its manufacture at the nearest hardware store or hardware store, where you can also buy all the necessary tools.

Tools and materials

To work, you need the following materials:

  • planed board 50x250 mm (two pieces of 5 meters each);
  • bar 50x50 mm (12-15 meters);
  • bolts 11-13 cm long, 5-8 mm in diameter, nuts and 2 washers for them (108 pieces of bolts and nuts, 216 washers);
  • planed board 35x150 mm (40 meters);
  • planed board 35x115 mm (22 meters);
  • turned balusters 100-110 cm high and 50 mm in diameter (26-32 pcs);
  • supporting pillars with a section of 10x10 cm and a length of 100-110 cm, you can use the appropriate size balusters (4 pcs);
  • straight railing, embossed, 50–80 mm wide (15 meters);
  • steel corners with a shelf length of 10 cm (12 pcs);
  • anchor bolts, nails and screws of various sizes;
  • wood putty;
  • parquet varnish;
  • acetone or solvent;
  • joiner's glue.

You will also need the following tools:

  • jigsaw;
  • grinder;
  • screwdriver with a cruciform bit;
  • hacksaw for wood;
  • drill with perforation mode and a set of drills;
  • pen drill with a diameter of 20mm;
  • hand cutter or milling machine;
  • a set of chisels;
  • wrenches matching bolts and nuts;
  • square;
  • protractor;
  • pencil;
  • roulette,
  • hammer and mallet;
  • sandpaper;
  • brush;
  • rubber gloves, respirator and goggles.

Manufacturing and installation of stairs

When planning to put up a staircase, make sure that the floors of the first and second floors do not require repair, because otherwise they may not withstand the load and collapse, as a result of which not only the staircase will fall, but also the person on it. Then measure the exact distance between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor, then, using the Pythagorean theorem, find the length of the kosour (supporting board) of the stairs. With a height of exactly 300 cm, the length of the kosour turns out to be 424 cm.If you are not satisfied with the angle of 45 degrees, then carry out the calculations yourself, for this there is enough school knowledge. After all, the staircase forms a right-angled triangle, where the vertical leg is the height, the horizontal leg is the space occupied by the staircase, and the hypotenuse is the length of the stringer.

Then calculate the number of steps.

Rememberif there are more than 18 steps, it is advisable to use a different staircase design, because a stringer without supports will not be able to provide the required rigidity.

Having decided on the calculations, mark the kosour boards, the corners of which should correspond to the angle of installation of the stairs, taking into account the total length of these parts. Make no mistake, because in case of a mistake you will have to either increase the angle of the stairs or buy new kosour boards. Having marked and rechecked everything, cut the ends of the boards and attach them to the installation site of the future ladder to make sure that you have not confused anything. Both boards must stand at the required angle and adjoin the ground floor surface of the first floor and the end of the second floor without gaps.

Remove the kosour boards and start marking the steps. We offer the simplest way of fastening steps, which does not reduce the strength of the stringer and does not require special carpentry skills, enough attention, caution and diligence. Steps made of two 35x150 mm boards will support 50x50 mm bars attached to the stringer, and in front the steps will be covered by risers - vertical boards measuring 35x115 mm. The steps will be attached with self-tapping screws and the risers with nails. If you do not mind the screws 70–80 mm long, then the risers can be attached to the stringer with their help. As a result, the steps are 26.5 cm deep and 15 cm high, which provides high comfort when going up or down stairs.

Before starting the marking, imagine the device of each step, then sketch it. If you could imagine and sketch them, proceed to the markup. Determine the length of the bars so that they do not interfere with the risers and do not protrude from the back of the stringer. Then mark the position of the bars, taking into account the height of the steps. Remember, the first rung should start with a riser resting on the floor. Having finished with the markings, make a template for drilling holes in the stringer and bars, or mark all the holes by hand both on the stringer and on the bars. Postpone all work with the stairs for 1-2 days, then recheck all the markings, if there are no errors, drill holes for installing bolts in the stringers and bars. When all the holes are ready, drill holes for the washers from the outer surface of the stringers so that the bolts do not stick out above the surface of the board. This will not only increase the safety of the ladder, because no one will get scratched on the protruding bolts, but also make it more beautiful.

Despite the fact that many carpenters assemble a ladder of this design with nails, we recommend using bolts and nuts. Nails of the required size (120–150 mm), if handled ineptly, often split the bars, which is why they have to be changed frequently. This is especially the case when bending nails from the side of the bars. If you hit the nails from the side of the bars, bending them on the stringer, then the latter will have to be sheathed with veneer or plywood, which increases the complexity and cost of the work, because unlike smooth round holes, bent nails are very difficult to putty. When finished with the installation of the bars, begin to mark the boards of steps and risers. The length of the riser and back board is 100 mm, the length of the front board is 110 mm. This is necessary in order for the steps to look cut into the kosour, because this design looks more beautiful and reliable. All boards must be cut at a 90 degree angle.

Finished with slicing milling machine Or, use a hand mill to cut the top front edge of the front board to give it a rounded or curly shape, because a step with a pronounced upper front corner looks ugly. If you are unable to do the job yourself, contact your nearest carpentry shop or furniture shop, for a small fee, you can easily and quickly process all the necessary boards. Then mark and cut the outer boards so that they evenly protrude above the stringer. The next stage of the work will be the installation of balusters and railings on the kosour, for this round spikes with a diameter of 20 mm and a depth of 3-5 cm are cut at the ends of the balusters, and holes corresponding to them are drilled in the kosour and the underside of the railing. All holes and pins must be made with respect to the angle of inclination of the stringer. When everything is ready, the stringer, balusters and railings are assembled into one structure, first on a dry one, then, if everything is fine, assembled on glue. The next stage is the installation of the stringers and the adjacent end balusters. For fastening to the logs and the floor surface, metal corners and powerful self-tapping screws are used. Then the risers and steps are installed and secured. When the entire staircase is ready, the horizontal parts of the railing are installed, then the entire structure is sanded, cleaned of dust and varnished in several layers.

A properly designed pivot staircase will perfectly complement the interior.

Any a private house, which has more than one floor, forces its owner to build an interfloor staircase. It is quite possible for an owner experienced in construction to make it with his own hands. But it should be borne in mind that it is better to think about construction in advance - even before building a house, at the stage of its design.

Complex staircases are obtained due to the elementary lack of space. The owners in such cases make a choice in favor of a spiral staircase or a march staircase with a turn. You can achieve success in the construction of an interfloor staircase with your own hands if you correctly calculate the entire staircase structure and plan the process of its construction. But it is certainly worth consulting with a specialist, for example, about the permissible load on the stairs.

What type of construction to choose

First of all, you need to decide on the purpose and frequency of its use. In some cases, a lightweight foldable design that does not turn and is not designed for heavy loads is the preferred option. For example, when the 2nd floor is an attic (or even an attic), it is unlikely that there will be a need to move large and heavy objects there. The number of people regularly climbing such a floor will also be small.



In some cases, such a ladder will be appropriate.

The most common and easiest-to-manufacture structure that connects the second floor to the first is a flight staircase. It is not only comfortable, but also safe, which is important if children and elderly people use the stairs. In addition, large-sized objects - furniture, for example, or building materials - can be easily lifted to the upper floor and lowered down a high-quality flight staircase. It is easier to build a marching staircase with your own hands. It is usually built from wood or metal.



The marching staircase is not only very convenient, it is also very simple to construct it on your own.

The stairs to the second floor are often made in several flights. The reason for this decision is the need to fit the structure into a limited space, while maintaining correct angle tilt.

Important!

If the stairs are made too steep, it will be uncomfortable to use.



Swivel staircase with a comfortable flight angle.

What is the use of drawing

The homeowner has every right to do everything at his own discretion - choose the height and width of the structure, build it from wood or metal parts, do all the work with his own hands or hire specialists, make a choice in favor of one configuration or another. But nevertheless, it is worthwhile to carefully consider the observance of certain parameters of the stairs. To make it safe and comfortable, you should, first of all, maintain the correct ratios of the height and depth of the steps, because it is these dimensions that determine the slope of the entire structure.


Non-standard steps can and will give your staircase original view, but it will not be very comfortable to use it.

In any case, drawing up a drawing of the future staircase will take into account all the subtleties of the structure connecting the first floor with the second, which will significantly reduce the likelihood of errors. Even the fitting of parts is likely not necessary if the drawing is done properly (which, by the way, is not so difficult). Another positive point is the ability to accurately calculate the amount of material required for the manufacture of a staircase.



Even such an uncomplicated drawing will allow you to avoid a lot of mistakes.

main parameters

The drawing should begin with drawing up a floor plan. It includes doors, windows, pieces of furniture and other possible obstacles. It is advisable to do further design steps only after familiarization with the existing building codes relating to stairwells. Here is a list of the most basic ones:

  • The inclination of the ladder should not exceed 45 °.
  • The minimum march width is 0.9 m.
  • The maximum riser height is 20 cm.
  • The depth of the step is at least 25 cm.
  • Fencing (railings height) - 0.9 m.

In addition, all steps must be the same height, otherwise it will be uncomfortable to walk up the stairs. The only exception can be the first and last steps. Sometimes calculations require this, and sometimes the first step is made in the form of a platform in front of the stairs.



It is noteworthy that different march widths within the same staircase are allowed.

Average human stride

The convenience of the stairs will also depend on the size of the person's step taken in the calculations. The average human height is in the range of 160-180 cm, the corresponding step for this height: 60-64 cm.

The length of the foot is also taken into account. It is assumed here that the walker feels safe when 70% of his foot is on the supporting surface. Again, based on the average values, the step depth is chosen from the range of 25-30 cm. There is a formula linking three parameters: 2h + d ≈ 60-64 cm, where 2h is the doubled riser height, d is the tread depth, and the sum of these numbers should give the value of the average human stride. It should be noted that this formula is not a "panacea", therefore, one should not take it as a prerequisite.

An alternative way to calculate stairs Part 1

An alternative way to calculate stairs Part 2

How difficult is drawing

To draw a diagram of a direct march, school knowledge from a geometry course will be enough. You can do it yourself. But before applying the drawing of the future staircase to the floor plan, it is necessary to calculate all its parameters. To do this, you can use the following instruction:

  1. The number of steps is calculated - the height of the room is divided by the height of one step. In this case, the overlap should be taken into account, that is, the distance from the floor of the 1st floor to the floor of the 2nd is taken.
  2. Then you need to determine the length of the structure, for this, the depth of the tread is multiplied by the number of steps. If the length is known or there are serious restrictions on its value, then they do the opposite - they calculate the depth of the tread, based on the length of the march: divide the estimated length by the number of steps.
  3. They make the necessary adjustments to make the design comfortable and fit into the interior of the room.
  4. The area of \u200b\u200bthe staircase is calculated: the value of the width of the march is multiplied by its length.
  5. The lengths of the supporting beams (bowstrings or stringers) are also required. For the calculation, they use the Pythagorean theorem - the height of the staircase and its projection onto the horizontal axis act as legs. The square root of the sum of the squares of these sizes will give the hypotenuse, the desired length.
  6. The obtained values \u200b\u200bare entered into the drawing.

Staircase turn

Now the most important thing is that first the parameters of the turning part are calculated, and only then they take up the marches. Here you need more knowledge than in the case of simple stairs and without a well-constructed drawing it will be difficult to figure it out. Drawings made by professionals can serve good example for newbies. It should also be borne in mind that calculations are often a process of successive approximation, that is, it is not always possible to get into the same dimensions right away, you have to refine individual parameters step by step.



The drawing should show the stairs in three projections.

How is the turn done? There are two options - an inter-span platform or winders... The first option is easier, you can do it yourself. In addition, it is more convenient to use the site, but space is needed.



Structures differ in ease of use and design complexity.

The second option is used when there is a lack of space. Calculations in this case are more complicated - you will have to try to make the stairs comfortable and safe. The following methods are used to calculate the winders:

  • proportional;
  • danish;
  • line rotation method;
  • sweep method.


We draw the winder steps.

Important!

When using winder steps, it is necessary to control their depth on the line of movement - it should not be less than 20 cm.

The depth of the tread of the winders, as a rule, is increased by creating an overlap of 3-4 cm. It is undesirable to exceed this value, since the descent can become inconvenient and even dangerous. When there is not enough space to fully position the foot, a person may slip, resulting in injury. Climbing such steps is also inconvenient - the sock will constantly cling to an overly large slip.

A 180 ° pivoting design requires a certain distance between flights. A value of 75 mm is the minimum allowable for this gap.

Create winder steps for a swing staircase

Ready options

Not all owners of private houses have the desire and time to make drawings and carry out construction works do it yourself. Moreover, when there are very good options for ready-made ladder structures assembled from modules. A variety of modifications are available - straight, screw, curved. Some are assembled from wooden elements, others from metal. And all this is not more complicated than a children's designer - only a few hours are spent. The height and width of the parts are easily adjustable, making it possible to fit the staircase into the interior and provide access to the upper floor in the shortest possible time. The variety of style solutions will allow you to find the right option for any situation.



Modern modular stairs can be very stylish and easy to assemble.

It is also worth paying attention to specialized software designed for calculating various parameters - SolidWorks, StairDesigner and others. With such tools, the construction of a complex structure with your own hands will become possible even for someone who has not dealt with drawings. In addition, there are free online services for designing simple structures, that is, anyone can try their hand at designing without installing additional software on their computer.

Designing a staircase in the Compass program (simple option)

Designing stairs in AutoCAD ( difficult option)

In the event that your country house or apartment has a second floor, then the need to place a staircase is an obvious fact. The only question is this. How to properly equip and arrange the structure so that the beauty of the stairs is in no way inferior to its practicality, reliability and safety. Well, the fact that you are on our page means that you are moving in the right direction. Now you can be sure that your staircase in a private house will be the best of the best.

Wooden stairs for the second floor

From the existing huge number of different designs, choosing exactly the staircase that best suits your interior is not quite an easy task. After all, here it is necessary to take into account many factors that affect the visual perception of the interior. An important role in obtaining a positive result is played not so much by the form of the structure (although this is very important), as by the correct selection of which it will be made from.

In Russia today, wood holds the palm among the most popular types of materials. And deservedly so. Indeed, in addition to environmental benefits, solid wood products have a number of other properties and qualities that distinguish them from the total mass.

Wooden stairs are able to withstand heavy loads, while over time they do not deform and do not lose their attractiveness. The maximum that needs to be done is to renew the paintwork in a couple of years.

The staircase is an important part of the interior, so proper attention should be paid to its design

A staircase in a private house is not only an auxiliary structure that helps to get to the second floor, but also a special element that complements the overall picture of the interior.

When choosing a suitable project, it is important to take into account the parameters of the room itself, whether the staircase is suitable in size, and also whether it will not violate the overall style of the house. Therefore, it is important to approach this issue with full responsibility.

In a cozy country house the staircase will be in harmony with, wooden and second light. And the surrounding interior will help to decorate comfortable, upholstered furniture with a small coffee table in the center.



Staircase in a private house on a metal frame

Another of the most popular types of structures connecting the floors of a house is a staircase on metal frame... The reliability and strength of metal does not need advertising, but not everyone knows the information about the finishing materials with which it is best combined. We will talk about this now.

The use of bare metal is of course also permissible, but not everyone will be pleased to walk on it, especially when the house is cool. Therefore, it is best to use a combined version of the staircase construction, the frame is metal, the steps are wood, glass or artificial marble.

Two types of staircase designs are most commonly used:

  1. Marching flights - consist of the same length of marching flights and a platform separating them;
  2. Spiral (screw) - in the classic design, this is a staircase with a projection contour in the shape of a circle.

Stairs with transparent safety glass railings look lighter and more airy. They are best suited to high-tech interior style.

Their graceful and sophisticated appearance will always focus on himself. Glass can also be combined with panels of various types of wood. The most interesting combination will look with such species as teak, oak, cedar, beech and maple.

Glass stairs for a country house (photo)

Despite the fact that glass stairs have a design that is not entirely familiar to the home, today the popularity of these designs is quite high. Them elegant design will be appropriate in the design of any interior, and impact-resistant glass of special tempering, from which the steps and railings are made, makes the structure absolutely safe for home use.

But there is no limit to beauty perfection, and today's manufacturers offer glass staircases with neon illumination of each step. In the evening, this spectacle looks truly magical and bewitching.

The variety of forms and types of structures make it possible to make the style of your interior unique and inimitable. And with the help of various lighting fixtures and other decorative elements, your staircase can be turned into a real work of art.


Spiral staircases to the second floor (photo)

A spiral staircase in a private house is mainly used if there is not enough free space for arranging a regular flight staircase. The structure consists of steps fixed on the central column of the base and a protective fence in the form of handrails and handrails of various shapes.

The spiral staircase has incredible appeal and beauty. Its flowing lines and curves create the perfect shape to suit most interiors. It looks especially great in spacious living rooms in Art Nouveau, Provence, Eco and Country stele.

Due to its mobility and compactness, the screw can be used almost anywhere. It can be a hallway and even a. They are also often installed between the top floor and the attic.

The advantages of a spiral staircase include the following:

  • Small size - minimum requirements for free space;
  • Acceptable cost - when compared with a marching staircase, the cost of a spiral staircase is significantly lower;
  • The visual effect of increasing the floor height, especially for rooms with low ceilings;
  • A huge variety of shapes and designs, allowing you to create a unique interior at home.

A spiral staircase in a private house also has its drawbacks:

  • Operation - in fairness, one should admit the fact that using a spiral design is much less convenient than a marching one. If you need something big to lift up, you can face great difficulties;
  • Manufacturing - in order to properly design a spiral staircase, the most accurate calculations and a lot of experience are required;
  • Safety - people with a weak vestibular apparatus will find it difficult to climb to great heights.

Spiral staircases can be made from wood, metal, concrete, marble and even glass. Based on this, decorative elements for the design are selected. A spiral staircase in a private house is perfectly combined with suspended railings, which are made of metal in the form of peculiar threads extending from the ceiling.

Depending on the style of the interior, one or another material is selected. Metal will be appropriate in classic minimalism and unpredictable baroque. Glass looks delightful in a modern and Scandinavian interior style. Concrete or marble will be a wonderful decoration that will emphasize the character of the loft, art deco or eclectic style.


The absence of walls in the loft-style interior means that the staircase will be open for viewing. Therefore, its design should be thought over to the smallest detail, since it is she who will set the basic tone of the interior, emphasizing its exceptional masculine character.

Wood, glass and metal are the main materials for the manufacture of stairs, characteristic of this style. Here, both screw and sustainer type of structures are applicable, but the latter is still more common. Transparent glass, with openwork steps and forged railings, allow at the same time to harmoniously combine massiveness and lightness. But for more discreet interiors better fit solid wood, which makes the structure look more luxurious.

Design tricks

Very often, a metal staircase is covered with dark paint, or patina is used to obtain the effect of a copper surface. This technique allows you to create the illusion that the structure has been used for a long time. Such staircases look very interesting, besides, they create the feeling of a habitable space.

To make your interior as close as possible to the loft style, some of the walls should be decorated, or artificial stone... Also, the decoration for the walls and ceiling can serve as parquet or, which is quite simple. The pronounced wood texture on the facades of the walls will bring the missing warmth and tranquility to the interior.


Modern staircase design able to surprise

Staircase in a private house with original design, will turn your interior into a true work of art. Whimsical architectural design in a futuristic and modern style, with beautiful railings made of various materials will create a truly unique structure that will be the center of attention for your unique interior.

Precious metal, chrome-plated steel, lacquered steps, transparent glass - this is a small list of materials that will emphasize the belonging of your staircase to the above styles.

The modern style does not accept the presence of a large number of various accessories that distract unnecessary attention. The overall picture must strictly correspond general rules interior. The color scheme is selected carefully, according to the preferences of the homeowners.


Concrete staircase to the second floor

What could be more reliable and better than concrete? That's right, only more reliable and high quality. This is an incredibly durable and durable material from which you can make truly stunning structures, marching and spiral staircases, enchanting with their unearthly beauty. The uniqueness of the material allows you to use and combine it with almost any finishing materials be it stone or glass.

In order for the external appearance of the structure to be worthy of admiration, the railings and steps must have an impeccable appearance that can satisfy even the most sophisticated connoisseur of beauty. However, in pursuit of beauty, it is important not to forget about the main functional purpose of the staircase - it is a safe, comfortable ascent and descent for a person.


One of the most important principles the right choice staircase design is a harmonious combination of its shades with the rest of the interior. A staircase in a private house should be perfectly combined with the general landscape and have in common with it.

Gray is the color of severity and sophistication

We hope you were able to make sure that the world of stairs is simply huge. In it, everyone can find something suitable, both for themselves and for their friends.

Observing the basic rules, you can choose for yourself exactly the staircase that you have dreamed of for so long.

Building a staircase to the second floor is a rather complicated procedure, but if you have experience and good step by step guide you can do it yourself. The main difficulty in this case is that the dimensions of the span and the angle of inclination of the structure must be calculated with the utmost accuracy, since both the durability of the structure and the convenience of its operation largely depend on this. A reliable and aesthetically pleasing staircase is a great chance to test yourself and gain valuable experience for subsequent work in your private home.

First, you should decide what role your staircase should play in the overall interior. This design can serve as a decorative element or be invisible; moreover, the staircase can become the central element of the entire design, according to which the entire room will be decorated. But before choosing a specific option and starting the production itself, it is necessary to find out how this kind of staircase is arranged in general, and determine its required dimensions.

Construction - what are the interfloor stairs

And they consist of a large number of structural elements. Some are definitely indispensable, while others, on the contrary, may be absent in some variations of the described design.

To begin with, the structure must necessarily contain steps, as well as the supports that support them - these are the main elements of any interfloor structure of this type. The step itself is an element consisting of two parts perpendicular to each other. Speaking in a professional language, from a step and a riser. The latter, by the way, serves as a kind of support under the approach, but often you can do without it.

As for the supports, they can be of two types:

  • kosour (this is a special beam that supports the steps from below);
  • bowstring (a similar beam for steps, only it supports them at the ends).

Following structural element Is the railing. They are extremely important, although they are not available on all types of construction. And if elderly relatives or children live in your house, there is certainly no way without railings.

Finally, balusters are special vertical supports for railings, which are often necessary not only for practicality, but also for decorativeness. For balusters, different materials can be used, and the shape of the elements is also different.

Note! Due to the wide variety of stairs, they may have such details that are required exclusively for this design. Let's get acquainted with them.

  • Boltsy. They refer to special bolts designed to support the steps. They can be attached both to them and to the walls themselves. They are not often used, but only for some staircase options.
  • Racks. Such elements are used in the construction of spiral staircases. To one such rack with a corresponding step, steps are attached that have a special shape and form a spiral that rises to the second floor from the first.

What type of stairs to the second floor to choose for the house?

So, first, we determine which staircase we need, and make the appropriate calculations. As a rule, in private houses there are metal, concrete and wooden stairs.

By their design, they can all be:

  1. screw;
  2. rotary;
  3. straight.

There is also, by the way, combined optionsthat have varying degrees of complexity, but we will not dwell on them.

Concrete staircases require a very solid foundation, and the construction itself takes a lot of time, but the finished structures are very durable and strong. Installing a ladder made of metal is nothing complicated, but provided that you know how to work with a welding machine. But everyone can build a structure made of wood if you familiarize yourself with the algorithm of such a process.

The simplest in construction is considered to be a straight marching structure - not a particularly complicated staircase to the second floor with your own hands. It is quite compact, does not include too many details, and complex calculations are not required in this case. If free space is limited, then the best option - this is spiral staircase, which, although it looks elegant, is not always convenient to use. For example, it will be difficult for you to lift something heavy or bulky on it. Structures that consist of several spans are more difficult to install, but they are the most suitable option for buildings with a large distance between floors.

Do-it-yourself staircase to the second floor made of wood single-flight

This structure consists of the following elements:

  • stringers;
  • risers;
  • tread;
  • railings.

We have already figured out what each of these elements is, so let's go straight to the main thing.

So, the height of a single-flight staircase to the second floor should be the same as the distance between floors + floors. To simplify the calculation, you first need to determine the dimensions of the steps themselves. If children or elderly relatives live with you, then it is desirable that the steps be 15 centimeters high, in other cases this height can be 20 centimeters. It is undesirable to exceed the last value, since the ascent will turn out to be steeper, and it will not be so convenient to ascend.

As for the width of the steps, it should vary from 20 to 30 centimeters - the specific value depends on how much free space is allocated for the staircase. After all, the wider the steps, the more space will be required. Select the required dimensions, start calculating the length of the base and the number of steps. Take the total height of the entire structure and divide by the height of one riser, and round the number that you get to an integer and multiply by the value of the tread depth. For example, the entire staircase to the second floor with your own hands will have a height of 300 centimeters, and the height of each riser will be 20 centimeters.

This requires 15 steps because:

300:20=15

And if the width of each step is 25 centimeters, then the base should be 37.5 centimeters long (15x25 \u003d 37.5).

Step-by-step instructions for making stairs to the second floor

Having finished with the calculations, start making all the necessary structural elements. Kosoura must be made of solid and dense wood, since they will bear both the weight of people and the weight of the entire ladder. Cut out the template from thick cardboard, making cutouts to match the dimensions of the steps, while the slope should be the same as the angle of the stair itself. Cut grooves at the ends of the stringers, by means of which they will be attached to the floor and base, and then mark it in accordance with a pre-made template.

To cope with the subsequent work, you must prepare:

  1. electric jigsaw;
  2. a hammer;
  3. grinder;
  4. drill;
  5. level;
  6. and finally anchor bolts.

Take a jigsaw and use it to make projections on the stringers in accordance with the markings, then carefully grind both sides. Next, cut out fastening holes in the floor beams or, alternatively, install metal supports. In the place where the first step will be located on the first floor, install a support bar, fixing it with anchor bolts. Then install the stringers, be sure to check the slope using the level. Fix the stringers at the top / bottom using the same anchor bolts.

Now you can make the steps yourself. Take dry boards that are at least 3.6 centimeters thick; the width at this time should be similar to the width of future steps, or even slightly larger.

Note! When making risers, you can take boards 2 centimeters thick.

As for the length of the blanks, it should be the same as the width of the entire structure (that is, within 80-120 centimeters).

When finished trimming, carefully sand each piece to remove any unevenness or sharp cuts. The installation process itself is nothing complicated: coat the lower cuts on the stringers with wood glue, attach the risers and align everything around the edges. Next, fix them using self-tapping screws, and lay the steps themselves on top. If you do not use glue, then wooden parts under load will create squeaks.

Lay all the steps in the same way, and then start attaching the railing. Make balusters for railings from square beams or, as an option, curly wooden blanks. You can mount it on each step or through one (it all depends on the characteristics of the span). Fasten with self-tapping screws, do not forget to close the caps with decorative plugs. If the staircase to the second floor with your own hands will be located approximately in the middle of the room, you can equip the railings on each side at once.

At the end, grind the finished ladder well and treat it with an antiseptic. Then paint the wood or open it with varnish. It is important that the final surface is not too smooth - the roughness of the steps will significantly increase the safety of the inhabitants of the house. Finish coating apply in two or three layers, and before each new layer, the previous one must completely dry.

Straight concrete staircase

If your house is spacious enough, and the interfloor floors are made of concrete, then you can easily build concrete stairs... Typically, people often construct one of two design options:

  1. monolithic;
  2. combined type (here only the stringer is made of concrete).

Note that option # 2 looks much more attractive. However, concrete stairs in any case require formwork and a base that is strong enough to support this weight.

First, prepare everything you need, in particular:

  • moisture resistant plywood (can be replaced with edged board covered with PET film);
  • concrete;
  • strong beams 10x10 centimeters in cross section;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • fittings or special knitting wire.

Note! The thickness of the board for the construction of the formwork should be 3 centimeters, and the plywood should be at least 1.8 centimeters thick. Calculate all the required dimensions in the same way as for the structure from the previous paragraph of the article, however, the strength characteristics of the base are required maximum.

Start the work with the construction of the formwork: take plywood or boards, knock them down in accordance with a pre-drawn drawing, avoiding cracks and observing the required slope.

When the formwork is ready, install it between the floors and fix it with the same beams. Then lay out the reinforcement rods inside the formwork, tie them with steel wire. Where the railings will be installed, fix the wooden plugs, and only then fill the entire box with the prepared concrete solution. It is important that the formwork is filled immediately, in one go, otherwise the solidity of the future structure will be broken.

After the concrete has set, dismantle the box, and moisten the formed steps from time to time with water, otherwise their surface may crack. Start finishing only when the concrete gains strength and dries completely. During the construction of a staircase of a combined type, stringers are poured in the same way, and the formwork should be narrower (which is characteristic, the installation of steps should be taken into account here).

The finished monolithic structure can be finished with stone, wood, decorative tiles and other finishing materials. Before proceeding directly to the cladding, take into account the weight - for example, the same tile will have a much greater load on the foundation than wood. You can attach any steps to concrete kosoura, but they will look especially attractive with wood.

Video - Self-made stairs

How to build a metal staircase

Assembling such a structure is not so difficult, but this will require skills in working with a welding machine and metal elements in general.

So, first, prepare the following materials and equipment:

  1. grinder with a grinding attachment;
  2. channel number 10;
  3. file;
  4. iron corners;
  5. metal in sheets;
  6. actually welding.

First, take a channel, cut it into pieces and assemble a frame from them as large as the stairs to the second floor with your own hands. Next, take the corners and weld them to the ends of the resulting frame with the same step, equal to the height of the steps. In this case, it is important that all corners are located exactly perpendicular to each other. To facilitate the installation of the structure, the steps can be welded after the frame is mounted and fixed.

Attach the upper frame elements to the upper floor with high quality, using anchor bolts for this purpose. Attach the lower ends to the floor of the lower floor. Then weld on the sheet metal steps and install the railing. Having finished with the assembly, carefully grind the joints with a special nozzle or, alternatively, with ordinary files. Finally, coat the entire structure with an anti-corrosion primer.

How to make a spiral staircase

The main advantages of a spiral staircase are excellent decorative properties, as well as the fact that such a structure does not take up much space. For example, a staircase with a height of 2.5 meters will consist of 16-17 steps, while the base will be approximately 2 meters in diameter. One of the most popular ways to construct spiral staircases to the second floor is to "string" triangular / trapezoidal steps onto the central axis. In this case, the width of the wide part will be from 30 to 35 centimeters, and the narrow one - only 15 centimeters.

For self-made stairs to the second floor will be needed:

  • two steel pipes 5 and 5.5 centimeters;
  • primer mixture;
  • wooden slats with which the template will be made;
  • file;
  • corners;
  • welding machine.

A pipe with a smaller diameter will serve us as the main post, therefore, its length should be the same as the interfloor distance. It is also recommended that the ladder be concreted next to the base to make it more stable (remember to align the structure vertically in advance). The large pipe must be cut into cylinders that are approximately 15 centimeters long. Make all cuts strictly at an angle of 90 degrees, otherwise you will not be able to align all the steps horizontally.

Note! The cylinders should be put on the main pipe as tightly as possible, and there should be no backlash. If the joint is loose, you will have to use sealing rings.

To make stairs, you need a template made from wooden slats... Glue the latter in such a way that the corners placed in the frame form steps of the required dimensions.

Weld each rung to the corresponding cylinder, then sand thoroughly. When all the necessary elements are ready, start assembling the entire structure. Slide rungs on axle, set corners and weld securely.

The last step is the installation of the railings and the final finishing of the entire structure. For the manufacture of railings, you can use:

  • fittings;
  • thin profile;
  • chrome-plated pipes of small diameter.

Forged railings will also look very impressive. At the same time, do not forget that all metal surfaces must be carefully sanded, treated with a primer mixture and painted.

A spiral staircase to the second floor is assembled in a similar way, for which wooden steps are used. Wood blanks should be made in the form of trapeziums, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters is made in the narrow part. Further, using special seals, the steps must be strung onto the axle and fixed there. At the end, a railing is attached, the wood is primed, painted and decorated with decor.

Features of DIY assembly of stairs to the second floor on bolts

As a result, one should consider another curious version of how a staircase to the second floor is built with your own hands. In this case, we are talking about the design on the bolts, which got its name from him. Bolzen, which translates to "bolt". In other words, we are talking about a structure that is fixed with special bolts. Although in reality these are not even bolts, but fasteners made in the form of pins, at the ends of which there is a thread. Thanks to the bolts, the handrails and steps are interconnected and also attached to the wall. As a result, we get an airy and light staircase that can decorate any private house. Moreover, in this case there are no risers at all.

Among other things, stairs of this type are both compact enough and stretched on a specific section of the wall. Despite the fact that these structures seem light, in reality they are strong and durable, they can safely withstand several hundred kilograms, which is why, in fact, they acquire last years increasing popularity.

Note! It is quite obvious that it is impossible to install such a staircase in the center of the room, because the fastening, as we have already found out, is carried out to the wall. But the most important thing is that only high-quality and durable materials should be used for the construction.

It is extremely difficult to calculate such a ladder with your own hands, but it can be purchased ready-made or ordered by specialists in individual project... For more details on the installation of this structure, see the video below.

That's all, good luck and warm winters!

Video - How to install a wooden ladder on the bolts


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