How to make wood cutters do it yourself. How to make knives for wood thread? Homemade knife blast for wood thread

1. Take a carbury (plate from the box) with a thickness of 10-12 mm from any wood, but without bitch (Fig. 3).

2. Drink the jigsaw or hacksaw two identical billets with a length of 130 mm, 32 mm wide (Fig. 4, a).

3. Emery paper ("skin"), wrapped around a small wooden barrel to treat one wide side of each workpiece. Such a process is called grinding (Fig. 4. b).

4. After that, on the ground side of one of the workpieces, mark the groove (deepening) under the knife blade (Fig. 4, b), and then with a flat chisel, a width of 10 mm, ride it (Fig. 5).

Fig. 3.

Fig. five
a-B - procedure sequence

5. Blade (which will serve as an old or broken web from a locksmiths - Fig. 6, a), the length of which should be 65-70 mm, insert in the groove, pre-missing the PVE glue it and the entire surface on which it is located (rice . 6, b).

6. We glue now the grinding side of the second blank and neatly connect them (Fig. 7, a, b), then place under load or clamp the clamps (Fig. 7, B).

7. When the glue is dry, and for this you need 12 hours, using a sharp knife with a sharp knife, treat the handle so that it comfortably moves down in hand. The shape of the handle may be any (Fig. 8). After processing with a knife, pick up the handle with a fine-grained "skin".

Fig. nine
a - front view; b - view right

In fig, 9 is given a drawing simple in the manufacture and convenient to use the handle. Practice has shown that a knife with such a handle can use a carvers both with a small hand and with a large one.

Now let's talk about sharpening. Your knife should always be sharply honed, otherwise you will not get any fun of the thread. Therefore, sharpening pay special attention. It is best to apply for this to a specialist, but only if you have no electric drills at home.

The fact is that with the help of the electric drill, you can not only drill holes, but also to cut, grind, sharpen, milling, drill universal. A special clamp is sold to it, allowing the CE to be attached to the table, it resembles a clamp. Drills and other cutting tools are fixed in the cartridge. Abrasive circle is purchased in the store along with the mandrel. This circle is sharpened. By inserting it into the cartridge and securing, turn on the drill and start to sharpen your knife.

First, it is necessary to constrain the angle of the blade so that it makes 6 ° in relation to the cutting plane (Fig. 10). How to do it, shown in Fig. 11. Then the cutting surface should be sharpened, which should be 2-3 mm wide (Fig. 12). The sharpening is carried out on both sides until the sowing appears on the blades.

Now on fine-grained bar, spend grinding. Block necessarily moisten with water. This is done so that the grains of the bar under pressure from the knife turn into a peculiar grinding paste, which will remove the finest metal layer.

For grinding the blade, it is necessary to put on the cutting surface on the bar (Fig. 13), press and move the knife back and forth to the disappearance of the burse. Both cutting surfaces of the blade are grinding.

The knife after such a processing becomes sharp, but we need to be a knife of the cable to the razor, that is, it should be shaving in the literal sense. Only such must be a knife at the carver. And for this you need to polish the cutting surfaces so that they become super-power and clean. This is achieved by treating on the felt circle, the wicked polishing paste of the goy. Pasta is a solid green lingon. It was invented for polishing optical glasses in the State Optical Institute (abbreviated goow), from which he received its name.

Polishing is again carried out with the help of a drill in which the mandrel is fixed with the felt circle (all listed mandrels and fasteners are included in some drills, so buy a drill having a complete complete set).

I draw your attention to the fact that the knife during polishing (Fig. 14, b) needs to be kept as when sharpening (Fig, 14, a). With a violation of the correct reception, you can damage the circle and break the knife,

Now the knife is ready for work. Believe carefully to your tool. Make a pen plastic and protect them with a blade (Fig. 15). After every 2-3 hours of continuous operation, polish cutting surfaces - and the knife will always be sharp. Cutting such a tool will turn into pleasure.

Wood carving technique
Let's make alone
Blade
Lever
Sharpecker

Woodwood knives are mandatory accessories in the Master Arsenal, which manufactures decorative items made of natural wood.

Such tools may have different types and forms that directly affect the specifics of the processing of individual parts. The most famous cutter that enjoys great popularity among our masters is the Bogorodsky knife.

Wood carving technique

The wood carving refers to a difficult, but very interesting technique for decorating products known since a long time. The beginning of work, as a rule, is to create a workpiece, and simply put, decks or blanks. Next is performed by rough surface treatment, during which it is aligned and get rid of all sorts of defects. Then there comes a queue of artwork, which the master performs with the help of cutters for wood thread. Technically, such a process looks like a sample of part of the wood, which allows you to give the workpiece relief and volume. This stage can be called basic, because it depends on it how the final type of product will be. The finishing processing of the decorative subject consists in grinding wood and its impregnation with antiseptics and paints.

To perform manual operation of this type, cutting devices with different configuration of the blade can be applied. The cleanliness of the ornament on wood depends on their quality, the cleanliness of the ornament on wood depends, so it is necessary to ensure that the chisel's blade is durable, sharp and did not have a jar. If a solded masters Will be able to determine the type and quality of joinery knives with closed eyes, the choice of wood cutters for beginners can become a challenge. Those who are not yet fully familiar with the peculiarities of the choice and manufacture of incisors, we offer more familiar with their main varieties and the method of application. You can also find out how to make wood cutters yourself, setting them the necessary sizes and shape.

Views

It is believed that masters of virtuosos can do with one or two incisors, however, as practice shows, to achieve the best result and relieve work will help good set Special joinery, which includes chisels with blades of various forms. Specialists in this industry recommend replenishing their arsenal by the following positions:

Along with the fixtures for cutting openwork elements, there are also additional items, without which there is no carpenter. These tools include hacksaws, jigsaws, drills, wood hacksaws can be destroyed for draft or finishing work (saber, in-law).

Those masters that work with large-sized structures are purchased not only with a hacksaw tool, but also include in their arsenal, the cutters of the hatchery, or, as they are also called figured tesla. Their principle of action is similar to that which the cutting tools of a smaller sample work with the difference only on the scale and purity of the process. Newbies, just begin to comprehend the craft, in the varieties of the tool are not as thoroughly, as experienced masters, so the main thing is to comply with the golden rule - quality above all. Since the purchase of good-quality knives can do not cheat, many make cutters on their own, especially since today it is easy to find suitable video and photo lessons. Next, we will tell how to make knives for figure threads with their own hands from the girlfriend.

Let's make alone

Immediately make a reservation that it is not always a high price forcing the joiner to go to radical measures. Often good an experienced master can not pick up such a tool that would have answered his requirements, and this also becomes the cause for independent work above the cutter. In principle, this task is solved quite successfully, the main thing is to know what to make cutters and what technology to apply in this case.

Blade

In most cases, as raw materials for independent workpiece The usual canvas is suitable for wood or metal. From such a material, you can get an excellent jamb knife - it is enough to break through manually or cutting the segment of the canvas on the lathe, and then form a cutting edge. Decent characteristics suitable for our product, and a disk from a saw saw, because it is very important from which one began to make a kink knife, and here we are dealing with carbon metal, which is easy to sharpen and it remains sharp even when working with solid rocks Tree.

If your future homemade cutter is intended for sampling of wood, it must have a semicircular form of the blade, and in this case it is better to make it from a displacement, which can be found in almost every domestic workshop. In private carpentry workshops, you can meet homemade stoves from the bearing, which also proven well in the work.

Lever

When the cutting part of the chisels is ready, you can start making an equally important part of the instrument - the handle. Here we will need wooden bar, and better if it is wood solid rocks from which it will be necessary to cut a holder with a hole in the end. Note that the hole shape must match the similar parameter of the metal shank shank for the wood thread, with their own hands made of the canvas or disk.

In the event that a handle consisting of two parts is used to manufacture a wood cutter on a tree, it is recommended to additionally fix the blade with fasteners, and the gluing process is carried out using vice or clamps.

Sharpecker

To achieve a decent result in the artistic craft, the cutter can only if the tool has been sharp. When carving a tree, the knives have a property to fill up, so correctly sharpened jamb will be able to work for a long time without re-processing.

The Master's business is afraid, but whatever golden hands were, and without tools in some cases it is hard to do. And in a tree thread without good, comfortable tool It is difficult to get the desired result. Nowadays you can buy everything and including the most best toolBut there is a small snag - finance (not everyone has the opportunity to buy) I propose my own hands to make a knife jamb.

To make a knife-shock knife need:
- small bar Tree, Personally, I used a wooden leg from an old chair for this purpose (this will be a knife handle)
- mill;
- pencil and sheet of paper;
- Epoxy.

Instruments:
- saw on a tree (knife);
- several chisels and semicircular and even profile;
- Bulgarian;
- vice;
- electric drill.

Production of knife-shoika with their own hands step by step

Step 1
Initially, we will make a template for which we will make a knife jamb. It is best for making a template to use cardboard. The shape of the handle and the main cutting part of the knife is made according to the need depending on the needs that you will do this knife and how you will be comfortable. If you want, you can use a pattern from the photo. With such a form of the cutting part, you will be convenient to cut out the notches and grooves.

Step 2.
The template is ready, proceed to cutting the handle and the blade of the knife.
A wooden handle is cut with a hacksaw, and cut the blade with the help of a grinder, respectively, the template from the old cutter is pre-closer. Do not forget to adhere to security rules.

After the handle is cut out, it is necessary to stick together. It is best for convenience the shape of a handle to do on lice hand with smoothly overgoing finger bends.

Step 3.
All elements of the knife must be combined into a single whole, so with the help of the electric drill in the handle we make a hole. Making it a little more fixing part.

Step 4.
Fresh knife blade to a wooden handle. There is nothing complicated in this, you just need to insert the blade into the hole on the handle using for fixation epoxy resin. Then leave the knife for a while in a warm place so that the resin is pretty frozen.

Step 5.
With the oil handle, it is impregnated with pores, long time will not give the tree to spoil and highlight the texture. If you want, you can cover the handle with varnish. As they say: the owner of the barin.
Blade knife need to sharpen well.
That's all the knife-jamb, made by your hands ready. I hope he will serve you for a long time.

Knives with different blades were found in the thread the widest application. Traditionally, they are associated with contour and geometric threads, but can be very useful for studying elements of the flat thread. Knives are made of high-quality hardened steel. The following varieties of knives are distinguished: knives are shoals, knives and spoonful knives (Fig. 2).

Knives-shoys (Fig. 2, but) Designed to perform geometric and contour threads, cutting ornaments. In such knife, the magnitude of the bevel angle plays a major role, which can vary from 30 to 80 °.

The required bevel angle is defined as the complexity of work and its complexity. Knives with a bevel angle of 60-80 ° are designed to cut large straight ornaments. For more small work Or performing curvilinear patterns suitable knives with a smaller bevel angle.

Knife Cutter may have different shape depending on the type of thread (Fig. 2, b.). In geometric threads, they perform sockets, various curvilinear elements, in contour - all sorts of roundings and bends. Knife cutters are indispensable when performing a slotted overhead thread and specialized work. Cutters can be wide and narrow.

Spoonful knives (lodges) have a spherical surface and are used mainly for the manufacture of carved dishes, since they can make a sample of the inner surface of the product (Fig. 2, d.).

Fig. 2. The manufacture of knives of a saw blade for metal and mounting them with cuttings: but - knives and shoals with different angles of the bevel; b. - knife cutters; in - section of the cut on a large hacksaw blade; g. - making knobs for a large knife; d. - Spoonful knives; e. - Capture a knife with a thread.

Knives are widely used in the practice of a carver, both when performing a draft work (the usual cutting of wood with a complete blade), and in the sweeping of the thread with a knife tip. At home, harden the knife from good steel exactly all over the blade is impossible. Therefore, or successfully purchased the usual perochny knife (which is rare), or homemade.

Typically, knives for woodwood watches are made from the mechanical saw blade for metal, a file or a dangerous razor. It is easiest to make excellent knives from the handbreak of the metal, and a small fragment is suitable for this, and a fully blued canvas. Such canvas are narrow and thin used in manual hacksaws, and wide, 2 mm thick, which are used in industrial metal cutting machines. From the first to make small shoals and cutters, and the second go on the manufacture of large knives for roughing large billets, sculptural threads and other large-scale work. Depending on the thickness of the strips of steel, the size of the knife is determined. It is advisable to have 2-3 knives different size and with a different form of the tip: from acute (about 30 °) to rounded.

Thin canvases are simply reheated in the right place with the help of passage or vice. In the same way, you can break up small unnecessary parts from the fragment of the canvas. But with machine canvases come in other things.

On the workpiece it is necessary to outline the desired angle of the bevel (Fig. 2, in) And cut it on the edge sharpened, having done the grooves on each side of the cutting line, or with the help of the "Bulgarian" with a cutting circle. With sufficient accuracy, you will get two blanks in the form of a large knife. It is impossible to shoot down with a hammer by climbing the cloth in the vice: the direction of the chip line can be the most unexpected or from the impact it will turn out hidden cracks in the cutter, and the fragments flying with the force can cause injury.

The resulting edge is aligned with sharpe. Then, at a distance equal to the width of the cutter, under the same bevel angle, you need to mark the border of the first chamfer. The first chamfer is removed on the circle symmetrically on both sides so that they are parallel to at least half and formed a thin working part of the cutter: when pressed on the tip of the back of the thumb with the finger, it should be slightly sprouting.

The cutter thus obtained in this way is useful to adjust on the flat side surface of the grinding stone, especially its end is the work part. Also on the plane of the stone remove the second chamfer on each side of the working part of the cutter at an angle of about 8 °. The second chamfer form a blade with an angle of 15-16 °.

In order not to get out of the predetermined angle of 15 °, you need to follow the height of the end of the cutter. Should it be equal? \u200b\u200b-? Cutter lengths.

In the future, when the tool is filed during operation, the angle of its blade is dulled up to 20 °, which is still acceptable in the thread, but at the first opportunity it must be corrected again.

On the sharpening circle, the knives are sharpened not to the sharp blade. In order to avoid risk, spoil high-quality steel overheating, the final sharpening and finishes are made using a squeak.

If in the process of working with wood sharp tip of the knife broke, it is not necessary to sharpen all the blade again. Faster and more convenient to make a knife tip again sharp, choosing a knife's leaving on its end a semicircular deepening. Make it can be the edge of the emery disk or the supfil, better diamond.

Kosyaki is a kind of flat chisel with a beveled cutting edge. Most often, the ramp is needed shoals with an angle of 50-70 °. Sharpening chamfer is made both from two and on the one hand. The cant with one-sided sharpening is useful for removing the material, cutting the ornaments, bringing the bulk surfaces. Due to the ambulance of the cutting edge, it is easier for them to cut down too much. Bilateral shoals are mainly required when threaded flat reliefs.

Making a knife-jamb is best of all of the hacker canvas 14-16 mm wide and a thickness of 0.8 mm. Such a tool is easily included in the wood, slightly spreading the layers, which makes it possible not to braid small parts.

For its manufacture, you need to cut off or choking a piece of cloth with a length of 100 mm, on sharpening to remove the teeth from one end to half the length, from the same edge to cut the end at an angle of 60 ° so that the sharp nose is on the side opposite to the tooth. Heat sharpening - 2 mm. Drawing, you need to cool the cloth in water more often so as not to burn the spout.

For larger elements of the geometric ornament, the blade must be made wider. You can remake a flat chisel, yelling its cutting edge at an angle of 60 °. But most often, the major cant makes from the machine canvas with a width of 15-25 mm, a length of 100-160 mm and a thickness of 2 mm, the champers are sharpened to 6-8 mm. The shank of 60 mm long is stepping to a width of 10-15 mm and a notches are written, thanks to which the canvas will be kept in the handle.

The rapter is advisable to learn how to work with the right and left hand. There are places where the right work is inconvenient, then the ability to operate with his left hand with the same skill.

Slothesis are knives with a curved blade, which were used for a long time to cut the containers of spoons, buckets, bowls (bro); Convenient when working with soft wood. It is possible to make lodges from the rod or carbon steel strips of 150-200 mm long, 10-15 mm wide and a thickness of 2 mm. It is necessary to sharpen an end with a 50-60 mm long in one-sided blade without adjustment so that the champers are from one plane of the canvas. Then it is necessary to heat the sharpened end along the radius of 15 mm so that the champers remain from the outdoor side, leaving the neck with a length of 80 mm. The shank of 60 mm long needs to be made flat.

After the metal part of the tool is made, you need to think about his handle. Temporary (it is the fastest) option - wind the knife with a dense adhesive tape, drive into a thick rubber hose or copper tube, and even get along with a piece of dense tissue, tapping it with a rope. But the wooden handle will be more comfortable. You can firmly drive the blank to the finished round wooden handle and fix. The longest, but most convenient for the cutter option - make a handle from two halves. This is especially true to a big knife, to which it is advisable to find a comfortable, handle on the hand, the shape of a wooden handle. Working with a large knife is usually associated with planing in a complete blade with the use of effort, so with a comfortable handle, it will be less tired of the hand and the likelihood of corns appears on the palm of palm. It is easy to determine the optimal shape of the knife handle with a plasticine, closing it a piece in the palm of the palm of the way as the knife handle is compressed during planing (Fig. 2, e.).

The handle of a large knife from two overhead wooden halves can be pulled by a screw for a metal, the diameter of which corresponds to the hole at the end of the saw: into the hole of one half the screw passes freely, into the hole of another - smaller diameter - screwed down with an effort (Fig. 2, g.). To drown the screw head, for her a semicircular chisel or zenker choose a socket (the ripped drill does not give smooth chamfer, tear wood). The protruding part of the screw on the other hand is cut off with hacksaw and cleaned with a file. Subsequently, after drying and sealing wood handles, the screw can be pulled up. It is clear that for tightening the halves of the knife handle, you can use a screw with a nut, which is easy to drown in the hole made by its form.

The upper part of the handle is tightened by the caprony thread or durable linen thread with glue. Thread turns should go to the recess, sharpened on collected handle Round rashpil and coinciding with a deepening on the knife canvas, pre-selected on a sharpening circle. In the process of wreathing the thread, the top of the handle is better to pull in the vice.

The handle for a small knife-jock make the same. The output of the thin canvas from the handle should be no more than 25 mm, otherwise it will bend when the details at the time of trimming. 2 mm thick cloth outlet of a knife knife can be up to 45 mm.

For a small short knife, it is not necessary to make a short and handle. After all, you will need to freely maneuver them, clamping in the palm of your hand in various positions. This is especially necessary when processing internal surfaces crafts, cavities, curves, bends, etc.

Very small knives, for example, pursued from the napfily, the easiest way to wind up the sticky tape so that the winding turns partially went out for the end of the handle. It will protect the winding from slipping when working, and the hand will be protected from Namins.

Any specialist knows perfectly, as it is important to have a good and reliable tool at hand. Unfortunately, it happens that it does not happen at the right moment. This is where the search or the finished tool, or numerous other options begins.

So it turned out with me. Once in carefree childhood, I made attempts to learn. For these purposes, even acquired a set of incisors (the manufacturer - "Zaporizhia instrumental plant. Voikova"). Much of it was lost to date, but semicircular chisels are preserved. Unfortunately, attempts to master the threads in those days were not crowned with success - there was no one to show the main techniques for working with the tool. As a result, a plurality of scars on the left hand and the dug - almost literally - the desire to improve in this direction.

This fall, I had a desire to crash. The benefit appeared time - I had to stop my expression in the garage and patiently wait for spring. But now I decided to start from the manufacture of a suitable tool, and first of all - the knives for the wood thread. One of the incentives was their absence in local stores.

My knives (shoals and cutters) were to meet the following requirements:
high quality steel from which they will be made;
Ergonomic (comfortable) handles;
relative simplicity of manufacture;
reliability.

In addition, I planned to take those materials that were in stock for the knives.

Materials and tools for the manufacture of knives

As source material For the manufacture of blades, I used pieces. Earlier, I did kitchen knives from them - they hold sharpening well.

For handles, I used the trimming of oak boards remaining from other works. Oak - durable, beautiful and technological material.

To work, I needed an electric sharpening, a ribbon grinding machine (skin grain - 40), a common hacksaw, a grinding skin (grain 80, and for the crust - 240, 800 and 1000), a respirator (gauze mask) - to protect the respiratory organs.

All items glued to the joinery glue "Titebond II".

Production of Klinka

Of the pieces of the canvas saws about 8 cm long, I pulled out metal blanks of blades of the desired form. The billets left shanks with a length of approximately 4.5-5 cm. These sizes ensure sufficient strength of the molding of the blade in the handle. For more reliable fixation (so as not to break and fell out of the handle) on the shank sides made semicircular cuts.

The blade cross section of the knife usually has a wedge-shaped narrowing (approximately at an angle of 10-15 °) from the footage to the cutting edge. This is the so-called big chamfer or blade descent. The cutting edge itself is formed by a small chamfer (underwater) - coolest narrowing (at an angle of 25-30 °) in the immediate vicinity of the blade blade.

I make a big chamfer on the knives before we glue the shank in the handle. When forming the chamfer, we cut the workpiece from two sides below the desired angle. At the same time I try to carry out the metal symmetrically.

The most important thing in this work is not to rush. With intensive scratching, the metal is heated, and its vacation occurs. That is, the metal becomes softer and loses the ability to keep sharpening. In addition, the dischargeable workpiece I cool from time to time in water, not allowing its overheating. For this, nearby I put the container with cold water And periodically lower the workpiece into it. The final formation of the blade, sharpening and polishing is already producing on the finished knife.

Manufacture of knife handle

For the handle, oak lumps with a cross section of 12x22 mm and a length of slightly more than 12 cm were closed. The bars picked up so that the bonded surfaces were smooth. To simplify the operation, the nest under the shank chose in one of the halves of the future handle.

The sequence of operations is as follows. The shank handled the grinding skin along the edges (knocked down). After that, applying the shank to the pre-prepared bar, drank it with a pencil or handle. Then the chisels chose a nest to a depth, equal to the thickness of the workpiece, from time to time collecting the entire design of "dry" to check how the lumps fit to each other. If the nest depth is insufficient, the handle does not glue either gluildingly, and the handle during operation can split. At the same time, with a too deep nest, the blade will walk from side to the side, which is also fraught with undesirable consequences - cracking the handle or deformation of the shank. Thus, it is necessary to choose the nest under the shank as accurately as possible. I know this on your own experience - it was repeatedly to split already made handles of kitchen knives and change to new only because the shanks kept loosely!

After with the control assembly of "dry" of all parts, the required result was obtained (a tight fit of the shank and the absence of cracks between the halves of the handles), it can be bonded to bonding. The glue put on the surface of the bar and into the nest under the shank - with a manual sample of the nestless nesting nests in depth, and possible cavities are better filled with glue, which hardening the shank and will hold the shank. The response detail of the future handle also applied a layer of glue, but already thinner.

Then combined the details (it is necessary to make sure the ends of the brooms located closer to the clinch as accurately as possible) and tightened them with clamps. He tried to pull as stronger as possible, but, as they say, without fanatism, so as not to split the bars. The extruded surplus of the adhesive removed with a damp cloth and left the workpiece for about 12 hours until the glue drying.

After that, I checked the density of the landing of the shank in the handle: I kept the handle with one hand, and the second tried to break the blade. If at the same time heard the hardly catchy quiet squeezing sounds were heard, then such a handle is not suitable anywhere, and it must be redoing. With qualitatively performed work outsided sounds should not be.

Fitting handles

For myself, I have long defined the most suitable forms Handles for the cutting tool. For example, on the handles of kitchen knives and thread knives, I usually make a small bend on the back for the rest of the thumb. There is I. general features Handles of all tools, namely:
The back of the handle is wider and rounded than the one that closer to the blade, so all the blanks for the handles at the beginning of the treatment resemble the truncated elongated pyramid;
On the handle there is a notch under the index finger.

When the workpiece is glued, hacking or fantorial saw Screw the rear part, based on the necessary sizes (in my case - 12 cm).

After that, I turn to the cutting of the facets of the handle with a ribbon grinding machine. I work using personal protective equipment - safety glasses and respirator, because oak dust can cause allergies.

It is not necessary to strive to sharpen the handle of the tool as precisely as possible on the ribbon with graininess 40. It is better to leave small allowances for more accurate machining with manually shallow skin. Prepared Handles I always cover Nitrolom (I like it more).

Closing Blade

Let's return to the issue of forming the cutting edge. The sharpening angle of the big chamfer is 10-15 ° is suitable, perhaps for a dangerous razor, but for a tree knife (albeit even softer) is still small. When processing a wooden billet, the edge will be frozen or barbed. Therefore, you need a small chamfer, the sharpening angle of which is about 25-30 ° for my knives.

For the formation of a small chamfer, I use a grinding skirt (but you can also be bars) of different grainability on the principle of more to a smaller. At first I take the skin with grainy 240, then - 800, then - 1000 and finally polishing on a leather belt fixed on a wooden bar.

With good sharpening, wood should cut both along and across the fibers without much effort. And the cutting surface should be smooth and shiny - in this case, they say that the "oil" cut is obtained.

The quality of sharpening check on the board specifically used for these purposes. I take a board from a soft tree of wood, as it is difficult to achieve a "oil" cutting on such a board than on hard rock blanks.

Naturally, in the process of threading the knife is stupid, and it falls from time to time to restore the cutting edge. I do it as follows: I put a leaf of grinding skins on a flat wooden bar and perform several truth movements, after which I bring a knife on the belt.

Acting according to the described scheme, I made several knives for autumn. They are fully functional - reliable and comfortable. For a beginner, I think, not bad! Experience I plan to use to expand the collection of your tool. I hope the knives will become my faithful assistants when mastering the wood thread.

Woodwood knives do it yourself: the sequence of the robot

1. As a workpiece for the manufacture of blades, a knife saw blade was used.
2. Shanks in all blades have approximately the same shape.

To perform a triangular-lagging thread, you will need only one tool - knife jamb (Fig. 1). It is so called because it has a bevelled blade.

Fig. 1 knife jamb

How to make a knife jamb

1. Take a table with a thickness of 10-12 mm from any wood, but without bitch.

2. Drink the jigsaw or hacksaw two identical billets with a length of 130 mm, 32 mm width.

3. Emery paper ("skirt") wrapped around a small, process one wide side of each workpiece.

4. After that, on the polished side of one of the workpieces, mark the groove under the knife blade (Fig. 2)

Fig. 2 markup groove under the knife blade

5. Using a flat chisel, 10 mm width. Roll into the groove (Fig. 3).

Fig.3 Technique Slashing Groove

6. Blade (possibly an old or broken cloth from a plumbing hacksaw), the length of which is 6.5-7 cm, insert in the groove, pre-slipping the PVA glue it and the entire surface on which it is located.

7. glue Melt now the grinding side of the second blank and neatly connect them (Fig. 4 A, b), then put under load or clamp the clamps.

Fig. 4 connection parts knife

8. When the glue is dry, after about 12 hours, with the help of a sharp knife with a sharp knife, treat the handle so that it comfortably moves down in hand. The shape of the handle may be any (Fig. 5). After processing with a knife, pick up the handle with a fine-grained "skin".

Fig. 5 Possible knife knife shapes

In fig. 6 Dan drawing is simple in the manufacture and convenient to use the handle. Practice has shown that a knife with such a handle can use a carvers both with a small hand and with a large one.

Fig. 6 Drawing of comfortable knife handle

The knife should always be sharply honed, otherwise you will not get any pleasure from the thread. Therefore, sharpening pay special attention.

First, it is necessary to constrain the angle of the blade so that it makes 60 ° in relation to the cutting plane (Fig. 7). How to do it, shown. Then the cutting surface should be sharpened, which must be 2-3 mm wide. The sharpening is carried out on both sides until the sowing appears on the blades.

Fig. 7 How to give the shape of a blade

For grinding, the blade must be put on the bar cutting surface, press and move the knife back and forth before the disappearance of the burse. Both cutting surfaces of the blade are grinding.

The knife after such a processing becomes sharp, but we need a knife jamb as a razor, that is, it should shave in the literal sense. Only such must be a knife at the carver. And for this you need to polish the cutting surfaces so that they become super-power and clean. This is achieved by treating on the felt circle, the wicked polishing paste of the goy.

Polishing is carried out with a drill, which fix the mandrel with the felt circle. The knife during polishing (Fig. 9, b) needs to be kept as when sharpening (Fig. 9, a). If the correct reception is violated, you can damage the circle and break the knife.

Fig. 8 How to keep a knife at a - sharpening, b - polishing

Now the knife is ready for work. Make a foam cover and protect them with a blade. After every 2-3 hours of continuous operation, polish cutting surfaces - and the knife will always be sharp. Cutting such a tool will turn into pleasure.

All photos from the article

Experienced masters for the manufacture of various decorative crafts can even use the simplest folding knives with wooden handle. However, a novice for threading is worth using a specialized tool that will allow all major operations without additional effort.

In our article, we will tell, which knives you can handle wood, and we also give recommendations for independent manufacture and sharpening such tools.

Tool description and species

Wood carving knives can have a different form. As a rule, they differ from ordinary knives shortened blade. This feature of the design is quite simple: with a thread, the tip is tested quite a strong load, and therefore the shorter there will be a metal part, the smaller the risk of its breakdown under pressure.

Depending on the type of construction, several varieties of cutter knives are distinguished.

View	Features
Cutter	Universal knife, which is used both to give the main form and for execution small details. The design is usually distinguished by an elongated blade with a straight or curved cutting edge. The varieties of cutters are: Bogorodsky knife - simple model With a flat cutting edge and deployed male. Allows you to perform a variety of operations, from draft to the most subtle. European cutter knife - In essence, a copy of the Bogorodsky cutter, but with a reduced blade and an elongated drowned handle. Knife with replaceable blades. Modern product, which most often has a collet design. The blades are fixed in the clamping mechanism and, if necessary, change rapidly.
Jamb	Constructively knife - a jamb for a wood thread repeats the cutter scheme, but it is characterized by a larger corner of the blade. Due to this, the jamb can be subjected to be actively used when carved on flat surfaces. At the same time, the techniques of some masters implies the use as the main knife exactly the jamb at the expense of a sufficiently long cutting edge.
Auxiliary instrument	When performing threads, in addition to the wizard knives, other cutting tools are used, such as: Chisels (straight and curved) Copperazy. False. Klepiki, etc. In essence, all of them are not knives, but have a cut edge.

In addition, the classification sometimes includes other tools used in mechanical woodworking.

These include:

Milling knives on wood - are either whole cutters or removable parts cutters.
Fugovalny knives For the wood machine - are used for machine processing elongated parts.
Planing blades are used as it is clear from the name, in planing machines.

However, these and other varieties of detail during thread are used except as auxiliary, therefore, we will not stop in detail on their description.

Manufacturing of a knife

Making blades

Choosing a radiotsky knife, one should give preference to simple and reliable models made of high-quality steel. However, the price of such products is quite high, because newcomers most often acquire cheaper models, and therefore inevitably disappointed as cutters.

The exit in such a situation can be the manufacture of a knife with their own hands. This task is solved quite simply, so even a newcomer in a fitter's case will be able to quickly acquire its own tool.

First of all, we need to find suitable material. It is easy, as we need a fairly small fragment of good steel.

As a workpiece for the future knife can be used:

The strip of good steel is about 8 - 12 cm long, a width of up to 2.5 cm and a thickness of 1.5 - 2.2 mm. The brand does not play a special role, if only the material was strong enough and kept sharpening well - it is also p6 / p6m5, and P9, and even p3am3f2.

Mechanical saw blade made of tempered metal. The dimensions are better to choose the same as in the previous case - so we will save the strength on rough processing.

Note! Despite the fact that, compared to the saw, the knife will be subject to significantly less loads, to take into the work of the rusty canvas or parts with cracks (let both shallow) are not worth it.

Part (it is convenient to use a fragment of the seduced disk with one or more teeth).

The work process itself looks like this:

First we make a drawing of a knife shoal for a wood thread, determining the shape of the shank, the length of the blade and the cutting part of the cutting part.

Note! The SCOS cutters range from 15 to 45 0, jambs - up to 60 -70 0.

Next, cut off the workpiece on the desired size, making a blade with a length of 30 to 90 mm and leaving the shank sufficient to consolidate in the handle.
We form the blade by cutting the front edge of the workpiece at the desired angle.
We perform a rough sharpening, making the cutting edge.
In the shank you can drill a few holes that will be used for fixing in the handle.

After that, we wind the cutting part of the tape is not cut down when performing further operations, and proceed to the manufacture of the handle.

We make handle

A knife handle makes from linden, birch or similar wood.

The main thing is that the material absorbs moisture well - then the knife will not slip out of the hand stroke.

We take a chock with a diameter of about 40 mm and a length of 200-250 mm.
Cut from the workpiece of the handle we need, thin the back edge of the detail.

Note! It is possible to limit the rough processing, because then we will still "bring" the surface of the tree.

Gently split the workpiece along the fibers.
On one of the resulting planes we apply a knife shank, after which we supply it along the contour.

In the workpiece, choose a deepening corresponding to the form and thickness of the tail plate. At the same time, watches the shank laid in it did not speak over the plane.
Remove the workpiece from a wooden plank, after which we applied onto all surfaces joinery glue.
We install the blade into place, tightly press both parts of the handle, and then clamp all parts of the clamps.

After drying the glue, we carry out the finishing processing:

If necessary, in the pre-drilled holes, drive the rivets, which finally fix the shank in the handle tree.
On the front of the handle we put a metal ring.
Wood carefully grind, removing all irregularities. Special attention is paid to the place of the joint of Polovin.

Right sharpening

Now, in order to start work, we have to sharpen our knife.

Instructions for sharpening looks like this:

On the abrasive bar with a large grain (pre-wetted it with water) at an angle from 15 to 24 0 we install the blade. Movements from ourselves form the cutting edge until the acuity becomes felt under the finger.
We turn to the medium-abrasive bar and repeat the operations, leaving on the cutting edge a wastewater chamfer (burr).

In a small (diamond) bar, abundantly moistened with water, finally remove the burr, forming a blade.

Edit on the belt

Conclusion

If necessary, knives for cutting on a tree can be made and independently - there are no special difficulties in this even for a novice. But the result will have the presence of a tool, ideally corresponding to all your requirements.

You can get acquainted in more detail with the features of such devices, as well as with the technique of their manufacture, sharpening and use on the video in this article.