Many of us admire the fact that stoves built at the beginning of the 20th century are still in working order and delight the eye with the perfect simplicity of their external forms, but this simplicity is so attractive that it was able to accommodate all the best from the world of visible and invisible forms. and exudes a stream of blessed energy. The question arises, how at that distant time, from local building materials, such successfully working and well-preserved long-lived furnaces were obtained. And the answer is very simple, it lies on the surface and therefore is invisible, because they do not pay attention to it, but direct their gaze to another - a false direction.

The beauty! But trash is burned in it.

To convey information to the reader, I will try to create a non-standard text flow. This will require the ability to use standard words, but through a certain structure of phrases and then what is said becomes an anchor of anchor and is filled with Power.

This Force will knock on the door of your Mind, and, if the vibrational characteristics coincide, it will fearlessly let it into your neighbor individual space and will open its arms to accept the above.

In any profession, there are different levels of knowledge of their subject. This article is intended for those who have achieved the highest professional skill and in-depth knowledge of stove topics. Naturally, the speech will go from the point of view and from the Height of this Level, that is, from the Level of reference grandmaster norms, which in no way humiliates those who have not reached these heights, but, nevertheless, builds fully functional ovens, of which the majority are on the vastness of the Russian stove-building.

Let's start with the fact that the construction of the furnaces was carried out by the masters of this direction, who received their Knowledge and Secrets of this art by inheritance from their ancestors. Only the most worthy, who mastered the practice of stove-building to perfection, were introduced to the world of the Spirits of those Elements, in the department and under whose control the stove product was. When the master finished his career, he passed on his Spirit - Patron saint to a worthy student, and they began to create together. The stove was considered a spiritualized Creation of the Creator, it was given a Name and a rite of consecration was performed by a priest. The Creation of the Creator, in turn, became the Creator of its Creation, which pacified Fire, gave birth to heat, and baked food. The furnace had its own unique character and temperament of the master - the creator, who gave it life in close cooperation with the Astra - mental forces, without which it is impossible to fertilize the embryo of the conceived creation. Without their participation, the oven will be a stillborn structure and will not emit the Graceful Power, which is necessary where people will be present and food is prepared. This oven will have only a shape and will be like an incubator egg, which does not carry the continuation of life, for it is empty and unfertilized, unlike the village ones, in which there is a clot of life. And it is so strong that when a person is sick, the disease rolls out with this egg, the embryo of which reels the web of the disease around itself. The egg becomes inedible, and even hungry, stray dogs disdain it. A stove built without the protection of the Spirit has a passive information capacity, because only the Yin or Yang principle is present in it - this is, in fact, a disabled stove, although it has complete external forms. According to the laws of paired harmony, two incompatible opposite individuals, masters and beings of the world of invisible astral forms, peacefully exist, letting each other into their nearest intimate space, becoming one, striving for balance, that is, for existence despite changes. That is why, the master, the creator of the furnace creation, stands simultaneously with both feet in both worlds, without losing his path in any of them. Here, not the speed of movement is used, but the elimination of distance - this is a kind of space at the zero point of time, where it is motionless, the so-called all cosmic hour, during which Eternity and the vastness of the Universe were created.

If the Russian stove is the Queen of stoves and their recognized Queen, with a calm and peaceful character, then the bath stove is its opposite is the hot-tempered Tsar and the haughty King, with a proud and independent disposition, who does not forgive a disdainful attitude towards himself, requires a reverent attitude from us and even worship. To get in touch with the Spirit, in whose jurisdiction the sauna stoves are located, one must have the recommendations of the spirits of a lower Level, which are subordinate to him. Stoves of other directions are subjects and foolish children of the Spirits of Russian and Bath stoves. When the kiln master builds furnaces under the Astral protection of the Spirit - Patron, then this product will radiate a huge creative and healing power, similar to prayed Icons, or centuries-old Dolmens. As a node of Force, the furnace emits energy with Wavelength and vibrational characteristics similar to the vibration of living organisms. Being in the Zone of this radiation, a person receives that dose of radiant and healing energy that his body can accept and assimilate.

But along the way, the question arises whether it is possible to break through into a parallel world and come into contact with the Spirits of the Elements without the help of a teacher. Yes, it is possible, but it is a long process and hard way... First, you need to perfectly master the skill of the Furnace, learn to feel and understand the character and whims of the materials used, love your profession and dissolve in it. Only by possessing the knowledge of the material world can one release and loosen its fetters and try to enter the chambers of the Spiritual World. For this, it is necessary, Opportunity, Ability and Desire, to combine into one whole. This thought-form, being condensed with similar ones, turns into a crystal of thought, which is a form of thought. Thought, as energy, is not limited by anything, it is limitless and all-pervading. And although she does not see herself, she will see the result of her own creation, since she will be its creator. Reading and assimilation of information occurs through the enlightenment of the mind - this is a long process and a difficult path, but insight is instant. Everything that was achieved during the period of enlightenment was perceived by the brain at the moment of enlightenment. It is the Illumination that gives strength to create unique masterpieces, no matter how complex they are. Because complexity is simplicity itself, detailed. Artists, sculptors, and poets do the same with the power of illumination. To easily connect your consciousness to the energies of the parallel world, you need to grow a beard and long hair. They serve as antennas and help not to lose direction when communicating with the Spirits of the Elements. Due to their long hair, women are more advanced in this range of contacts. Typically, people associated with the arts wear beards and long hair. The same methods are used by the servants of the Church for contact with the World of Angels and Guardian Spirits. But in order to see the matrix of illumination, you need to enter the space of Darkness with your eyes closed, or pull it over yourself. Its black color is the color of the Force and the King of all colors, it contains all the other colors of the visible spectrum. He is everywhere in Everything and in All, he fills the Universe with himself from the beginning of creation. He was never born and therefore cannot be destroyed, for he is the Messenger of the Anti-material Worlds. Darkness, absorbing Light, draws energy from it, and Light draws energy from Darkness, filling it with Itself. When the Emptiness of the Spheres of Light and Darkness merges, Information is born, it is not born in Minds, it passes through them, and the brain is its Mediator.

The black color is actively used by the ministers of the Church, in monasticism and Islam, it is in the same vibrational field with the space of Darkness and therefore is not rejected by it. The outstanding sculptor of our time, Dashi Namdakov, who is recognized by the civilized world community, whose works are acquired by the leading countries of the world, receives Illumination from a parallel spiritual Space. He told about this at one of his exhibitions. This allows him to create unique masterpieces. And, although in ordinary life he is invisible among the lower, but shines like a nugget among the Higher, and the first among the Equals.

The Kaaba cube in the great Mecca - the Shrine of Muslims around the world is also black, like the sacred stone of unearthly origin, which is in it. The black color gave birth to all the other colors, he is their Father and Mother, there are both masculine and feminine principles in it, but there is no struggle of opposites. This is their cradle, it is from here that they begin to fill the rest of the Worlds with themselves.

Now you can describe in more detail the brick that was used in the construction of furnaces. As a rule, it was made by manual plastic molding, from sand and clay of the area. Drying and firing were carried out in a handicraft way in small batches. All the components of the furnace were born in the mineral kingdom of the area, and therefore their Rh factor characteristics coincided. In the body of the furnace, they worked as a whole, and there was no rejection of each other. The energy and Spirit of the master who erected the furnace, the Spirit of the kingdom of minerals filling the mass of the furnace and the Spirit of the Astro-Mental Patron, filled the furnace body with joint energy, and it became a source of Power. Disassembling the ovens built in 1900 in the near Moscow region, I was delighted with their thoughtful design and quality, perfectly preserved bricks. Two years ago, from a similar brick, selected from the destroyed buildings built in 1825, I erected two ovens in the courtyard of the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker. This was a forced measure, since the Moscow Patriarchate did not have money for construction materials. And, although the brick was with deviations in the geometry of shapes and sizes, it was perfectly processed in all directions and safely withstood two winter cold seasons, with a two-time furnace, in the morning and in the evening. The wall temperature was from +70 to +90 degrees.

A stove brick should have a low grade, only such a brick was used at that distant time in the construction of stoves and it proved its right to exist. It had a pronounced porosity, was well processed, and was quite soft. It could easily be given any shape by processing with a hand tool and without injuring the inner brick mass. But at the same time, it possessed high mechanical strength, it was used both in the firebox and in the outer walls. With minimal thermal expansion, it possessed enviable refractoriness, and due to its high porosity, long-term and uniform heat transfer is achieved. Those water vapors that are released during firewood burning at the start of the ignition, when the temperature is low, are absorbed by the pores of the brick without damaging it. As the temperature rises, the brick gives back the accumulated moisture.

At present, oven bricks simply do not exist in the endless expanses of Russia. The brick that we purchase is intended for any construction works, but has nothing to do with stove construction, although they call it stove. Modern brick does not have the energy of Mother Earth, although at one time, in the form of components, it was in its womb. Passing through a string of electromagnetic fields, during its production, the living substance of its body is destroyed, and the brick becomes dead and empty, it will forever remain a passive Pantacle, although a product made of it may look Magnificent and delight the eye with the beauty of its external forms, but this will already be a merit the master, the Creator of his Creation!

The author expresses his gratitude and gratitude to the rector of the parish of blessed Simon of Yuryevetsky in Lyubimovka, Makaryevsky district, Kostroma region, Priest Mikhail (Mityushev) for the technical and informational support provided.

Introduction

From time immemorial, the oven in Russia has played a huge role in the life of every family. With its help, in the autumn-winter time, people dried and warmed their homes. The oven was used for cooking, baking bread and a variety of pies, as well as for drying grains, mushrooms, fruits and berries. She not only warmed and fed, but also healed. The oven no worse than a bath healed from colds, and dried on it healing herbs and roots strengthened health better than modern vitamin complexes.

And today the oven has not lost its significance. However, along with pleasant moments, she sometimes delivers a lot of trouble. In some cases, troubles are caused by unsuccessful laying, non-compliance with stove laws. In others, it is not about the unprofessionalism of the stove-maker, but about the wrong choice of the type of stove by the owner of the house. Thirdly, in the inability to properly melt it.

Not all problems can be fixed, but many can be prevented! That's why this book was written. In it, you will practically not find common places that are present in a variety of literature on stove business. This tutorial is an attempt to draw the reader's attention to those moments that play a primary role in the arrangement of the stove. Here are revealed those stove secrets, which could not be read anywhere before.

The construction of the furnace involves capital costs - both financial and time. Therefore, the experiments of "homemade" can be very expensive in every sense of the word. This book sets out the principles of creating economical household stoves, built on knowledge of materials, technologies and laws of stove business.

Let's talk in it about the psychology of the customer and the stove-maker. It's no secret that sometimes mistrust in the master leads to the most sad consequences - firewood from the owner who is true to his own just flies into the pipe! But if he listened to the words of a professional, the stove would have given him double fuel economy.

So the success of the stove business largely depends on the relationship between the homeowner and the stove-maker. But how not to be mistaken and not to trust someone who, in fact, does not understand anything about ovens? We will also talk about this on the pages of this book.

“Everything about ovens. Secrets of the Master ”- a book for the homeowner, novice stove-maker and professional stove-maker. Accordingly, it is divided into three parts (the author asks in advance to excuse him for the forced repetitions). In each of them, the attentive reader will find for himself a lot of interesting and useful - without science and ingenuity, the author will share his many years of experience in creating economical furnaces.

Part 1
Homeowner's Quick Reference Guide

Chapter 1
How to properly prepare clay, sand and brick

Procurement of basic building materials is an important stage in the creation of a furnace.

Let's dwell on this in more detail.

Clay

It is most convenient to pack fresh clay from the soil in bags (standard 40 kg flour bags) by no more than one third or half. This will make it more convenient to carry, load and store it. In addition, the vehicle will remain clean and undamaged.

In areas adjacent to the territories former garages, gas stations and warehouses of fuels and lubricants, it is absolutely impossible to take clay. When heated, the smell of fuels and lubricants, which is weakly felt in wet clay, will give such an unbearable waste that the stove will inevitably have to be shifted again.

It is undesirable to take clay with impurities of earth, as well as one that lies in thin, heterogeneous layers.

Clay located close to low river banks and in the water itself usually has many organic matter... It is also not suitable for stove business.

The volume of harvested clay depends on the thickness of the furnace seam and on the properties of the rock itself. But if you count on the most common in middle lane Russian medium-fat clay, then, taking into account a certain reserve for every hundred bricks in the masonry, it is necessary to harvest about two buckets of clay.

Sand

River (coastal and even more so bottom) sand is categorically impossible to take either for furnace masonry or for cement works. Among builders and stove-makers, river sand has earned itself the most ill fame - so it's better not to tempt fate! The abundance of organic substances will negate the strength of even the highest quality cement, and the kiln solution will not have sufficient strength.

It is possible to use fine sand with a high percentage of dust impurities in the oven masonry (it is very common in the Volga region) only if there is no other choice. Such sand always significantly reduces the strength of the oven seam.

Medium-grained (grain size no more than 1 mm) rock (mountain or ravine) sand without dust impurities and extraneous fractions is considered the best for kiln and cement works.

Volume of slurry blanks: approximately 2.5–3 buckets per hundred bricks in the masonry.

Water

Pond water, standing water, technical water, with impurities of foreign odors (with the exception of hydrogen sulfide), as well as from puddles, cannot be used in stove masonry.

Brick

It is almost impossible to buy good quality new red oven bricks. Therefore, before making a purchase of bricks, it is imperative to consult with the oven foreman in order to know the exact percentage of brick rejection.

When purchasing ceramic new red brick, it should be borne in mind that its coefficient of thermal expansion may not be suitable for use with increased temperature conditions... Under a hammer, such a brick will emit a perfectly clear sound, indicating its good density and mechanical strength, but at the very first serious temperature loads near the firebox (about 1 meter of the path of passage of thermal gases), the masonry can "break" (up to 0.5 cm) in oven seams. It will be almost impossible to get rid of this defect without completely re-laying the newly folded oven.

Use new ceramic red brick modern production it is possible only on condition that the lining, laying and calculation of the furnace will be made by an experienced furnace master.

In fact, strictly speaking, there is simply no non-ceramic red brick. Any red brick is always ceramic, because it was subjected to firing. But the trade lexicon has developed so that only high quality red brick is called ceramic, which has very smooth and even almost glossy side surfaces.

Used bricks 1
Some books on stove business do not recommend using second-hand bricks extracted from masonry with lime mortar. This is argued by the fact that such a brick can emit harmful gas when the furnace heats up. But experience shows that stoves made of such bricks can be completely problem-free. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the lime mortars on which brickwork, in different places could have a different chemical composition.

Before laying, it must be examined for rejection by an experienced stove-operator. Beforehand, it must be thoroughly cleaned of old oven mortar, soot, lime, paint and cement.

Fireclay brick, with all its undoubted advantages, has a significantly lower heat capacity than red. Therefore, if the oven is intended for baking bread (inside the firebox), then it is impossible to cover (lining) the firebox with fireclay bricks. Bread will not be baked in such an oven.

Chapter 2
How to choose the type of economical oven

The technical disadvantages of traditional furnaces are described in the literature in sufficient detail. Dutch women (of course, there are rare exceptions), classic Russians, Russians with flooding and cooking and heating stoves with three, five and seven vertically located wells in one way or another have very serious shortcomings. Their detailed analysis will take an entire chapter, but even a short list can make any householder ponder.

1. The smallest area of \u200b\u200bintense heat transfer (in this case, the predominant surface area of \u200b\u200bthe stove was and remains cold - even if it was swamp or not).

2. Uneven heating (one part of the furnace is hot, and the other is warm or completely cold - because of this, cracks in the furnace seams will often and with inexorable constancy).

3. The problem with burning raw wood.

4. Huge fuel consumption (annually it exceeds double, and sometimes triple the average fuel consumption rate of a technically sophisticated furnace) 2
In more detail and in detail the characteristic disadvantages of traditional furnaces are discussed in chapter 13.

Don't be fooled by the majority of modern CG-modeled orders printed in tens of thousands of copies. With the rarest exceptions, these are the same technically ill-conceived stoves of the century before last, a conscientious analysis of the shortcomings of which we find back in " Practical guide»VA Stroganov 1899 edition! It is surprising that this detailed, scientifically based criticism of most of the shortcomings of traditional ovens (still relevant today) never found a publisher.

How can a householder be inexperienced in all these technical and historical subtleties?

1. Fold up one of IS Podgorodnikov's bell-type stoves, which has passed the test of time (saving firewood by 2–3 times compared to the consumption of a classic Russian stove).

2. Create some external semblance of a traditional oven with an unconventional "filling" (see the recommendations in chapters 20, 21 and 29 of this book).

3. Install a boiler with water heating in your home, with the traditionally high efficiency of which (if, of course, the volumes and location of heat batteries are correctly calculated), the technical requirements for the furnace itself will no longer have a decisive importance, as in direct heating furnaces.

If it is necessary to heat a room with an area of \u200b\u200bmore than 50 m 2, it would be worth thinking about installing water heating. Otherwise, with the onset of cold weather, several direct heating furnaces will have to be heated daily, which, of course, will be very economically unprofitable.

When choosing an economical type of stove, the homeowner is likely to encounter some purely psychological difficulties. Too many sad stories remain in my memory! I would like to shed some light on this side of the issue.

If any master stove-maker promises you the laying of a good, well, just a very good stove, the plan of which has matured in his own head, beware of frivolously agreeing to such experiments! You will get almost 100% of the oven with the lowest technical performance. Require only a technically proven oven masonry.

You can trust a “homemade product” only in one case: if he has folded stoves of his own design in the houses of other customers, which have proven themselves on the positive side.

In order to create economical ovens of our own design, it is necessary to take into account the interrelationships of more than a dozen laws. Passion for some stove idea, unfortunately, always leads to the most sad consequences. You want to win in one thing - and this will almost inevitably affect the other. One of the oven laws will certainly not be taken into account. In ovens, less than anywhere else is free experimentation possible. If you take the trouble and thoroughly study the history of the stove business, you can come to an amazing conclusion. All the mistakes of modern arrogant designers have long been described and submitted to the technical archive of history!

I ask you to take the following advice on faith without any research into this issue. If you want an economical oven with good technical performance, never, under any circumstances, narrow the following cross-sections. smoke channels:

a) before the smoke channels leave the room - in one brick per die (300 cm 2);

b) the inner diameter of the pipe outside the room - 16 cm 3
In many modern sources, the smallest minimum transverse dimensions of the smoke channels are given:
a) a brick floor on a die (150 cm 2);
b) pipe diameter - 12-13 cm.
Further, I will prove with arguments that it is simply impossible to build an economical furnace on such cross-sections of the smoke channels!

Chapter 3
How to properly heat a household stove

The described economical firing technique only applies to batch ovens using dry or damp wood. The firebox of a continuous furnace, "potbelly stove", as well as the firebox of furnaces with coal, peat, etc. will differ significantly from this one. To avoid information overload, our method has been somewhat simplified.

Before you start to economically heat your home stove in practice, you need to understand how this factor will affect your personal economy. A properly folded and correctly heated household stove can give two- and sometimes three-fold (annual) savings in financial costs of fuel. Just the correct air intake into the furnace of a technically sophisticated furnace can increase the efficiency from 40 to 80%! 4
Complete combustion of fuel is ensured, firstly, high temperature burning fuel. Secondly, a sufficient, but not excessive, air flow into the furnace furnace. Third, comparatively small size furnaces.

In order to correctly (more precisely, economically) heat a household stove, it is necessary at least in a simplified form to represent:

a) stages of the furnace;

b) physicochemical processes taking place inside the firebox and chimneys of the furnace;

c) methods of competent regulation of processes inside the furnace at each stage of melting.

The first stage - from the beginning of fuel ignition until the furnace reaches an enhanced combustion mode - we will conditionally call the heating of the furnace.

The second stage is active combustion.

The third stage is the afterburning of unburned fuel residues in the furnace.

Heating up the oven lasts from 5 to 30 or more (which is undesirable) minutes. A dry picket fence can go into a phase of intense burning after 2 minutes, and sometimes an hour is not enough for raw firewood.

At the stage of heating the stove, excess air entering the firebox has almost no effect on the cooling of the chimneys for the simple reason that the temperature inside the chimneys is still not much different from room temperature. The chimneys are not yet warmed up - there is nothing to cool. Therefore, the first stage of combustion does not require special care and art. The main thing is to properly lay the firewood (a very important point: they should fill the furnace as much as possible, but not exceed 30 cm in the layer height). Then it is necessary to almost completely open the common thrust valve and give such an air flow through the blower door so that the flame at the first stage does not "blow off". The faster the stove enters the active combustion phase, the better!

In the active combustion phase fuel combustion processes significantly change not only their intensity, but also their shape. At this stage, the excess oxygen entering the furnace is less dangerous than its lack. I will briefly explain why.

With the onset of the active combustion phase, the biochemical bonds in the combustible fuel begin to decompose so intensively that a very significant part of the combustible substances (in the form of gases and volatile tar that did not have time to complete the process of complete chemical decomposition) moves into the chimneys of the furnace and can complete the combustion process only there. What will happen if, at the stage of active combustion, under the pretext “so that the heat does not escape into the chimney,” we restrict the access of oxygen to the furnace firebox? And the worst will happen.

1. The gases and gaseous resinous substances emitted into the chimneys of the furnace simply do not have enough oxygen to complete the process of complete chemical decomposition. In the form of bryophyte soot and resinous "scale", they will begin to actively settle on the inner walls of the smoke channels 5
Underburn chemical products leads to the formation of soot.

2. Constantly repeating processes of active formation of resinous substances and soot on the inner walls of the smoke channels will lead to a gradual narrowing of their cross-section. This will, little by little, inevitably weaken the overall thrust and significantly worsen the general specifications ovens.

3. The gradually growing layer of resinous substances and soot inside the smoke channels will play the role of an effective heat-insulating layer. Heat flows passing inside the furnace will begin to fly out into the chimney much more willingly than transfer their heat to the inner walls of the chimneys, and from them to the heated room 6
A soot thickness of 1–2 mm already significantly impairs the heat absorption of the inner walls of the furnace.

4. On one sad day, the resinous substances and soot accumulated in the furnace can go into a phase of active combustion inside the chimney channels. This phenomenon is not frequent, but the danger of a fire in the house at this time becomes extremely high! Anyone who has seen it with his own eyes at least once will immediately understand what is at stake.

The oven itself (and, if any, the tin pipe) begins to heat up quickly and strongly. It becomes as impossible to extinguish the fire that raged in it as it is to extinguish a burning peat bog. The ignited resin and soot respond to completely closed draft and blower dampers of the furnace only with an incredible stench and a slight weakening of combustion processes. However, it is impossible to completely stop the burning of tar and soot inside the smoke channels.

It follows from what has been said that the gate valve of the total thrust of the furnace at the entire stage of active combustion must be opened almost completely, and the blower door must not be closed too tightly. And the sooner the stove moves to the last phase of combustion, the better!

Those who have the time and desire to acquire the ability to accurately determine the amount of oxygen supplied to the furnace of the furnace can use the following recommendations. Pay attention to the color of the flame:

a) a dark yellow flame and the filling of the furnace with black smoke means that there is little oxygen, it is necessary to increase the draft in the furnace;

b) light yellow flame - fuel combustion processes are proceeding normally;

c) a bright white flame (more often found at the end of the active combustion phase) indicates that the thrust must be reduced until light yellow tongues appear.

V.A.Stroganov gives the following gradation: initial combustion temperature - 500 ° C, red flame - 525 ° C, cherry - 800 ° C, light cherry - 1000 ° C, light orange - 1200 ° C, almost white - 1300 ° C.

Consider the stage of fuel afterburning... Savvy readers have probably already understood: the sooner this (last) combustion phase ends, the better. The way it is! Most effective method preservation of the heat accumulated in the furnace (very rarely used) consists in collecting unburned coals on a scoop and taking them to a specially equipped fire-safe place. Immediately after this, you must completely close the damper of the total draft in the furnace. I will briefly explain why.

The excess air entering during the heating of the furnace could not significantly cool the inner walls of the smoke channels (they were not yet heated). During the active combustion phase, this excess, although undesirable, did not have a decisive value, because the furnace continued to actively use oxygen in chemical processes burning. But when the active process of fuel combustion begins to noticeably weaken, and the inner walls of the smoke channels have already warmed up to the maximum, even a slight excess of air entering the furnace of the furnace begins to significantly cool the furnace from the inside. It is during the afterburning phase of the fuel that the greatest losses of the heat accumulated by the stove occur: now it, in the truest sense of the word, begins to "fly into the pipe".

It is the afterburning phase of the fuel that requires special attention and skill - of course, if you have a desire to learn how to really economically heat your stove.

As soon as the wood no longer begins to burn, namely to burn out, it is necessary to quickly limit the flow of air into the firebox. The less air flow, the better. General rule: if only there was no waste in the room.

It is also desirable to limit the thrust in the furnace not by a common thrust valve, but by a blower door. The difference is that by closing the blower door of the furnace, we thereby achieve a significant increase in the speed of air movement on the grate, on which the burning out coals lie. If we limit the draft of the stove by a common draft damper, and not by a blower door (what, it would seem, is the difference?), Then we weaken the draft, but on the grate the air speed (with a slightly open blower door) will be very insignificant. This means that the coals will burn more slowly on the grate.

Those who had many years of experience in baking bread in a furnace household oven, they well know: if you gape a little during the period of burning out of the coals and do not close the draft damper in the oven in time, the bread will be under-baked.

Chapter 4
Eight Common Causes of Stove Smoke

This chapter will help the owner become an experienced oven master in his home. Anyone who reads it carefully will probably come to a simple conclusion: stove draft is, in general, not such a secret behind seven seals, as it might seem at first. In fact, everything is much simpler! The relatively rare cases in which the stove smokes are discussed in Chapter 18 of this book.

In order to clearly understand the reason - why your stove smokes, you need to take a closer look at:

a) under what conditions it happens;

b) gradually or immediately, she began to smoke;

c) how long ago it started, etc.

Reason one

If the overall draft of the stove was always good, but after it was not heated for two days (or more), it suddenly let all the smoke into the house, it means that the draft has overturned inside the chimneys of the stove and in its chimney. The general direction of the air flow changed, and instead of going from house to street, smoke went from street to house. The overturning of the draft can occur both on a hot summer day and in a twenty-degree frost.

Eliminating the cause: in a hurry, it is necessary to intensively warm up the air inside the chimney. It can be done:

a) through the topmost (closest to the exit from the pipe) cleanout door from inside the room;

b) through a temporarily opened hog in the attic;

c) if the above methods are not suitable, it will be necessary to throw lighted sheets of newspapers into the outlet of the pipe - until the thrust takes its normal direction.

Having recovered, the draft in the stove immediately becomes normally active, and in the following days (if the stove is heated regularly), such problems are no longer necessary. The people refer to this phenomenon as the not quite technically correct term "airlock". In no case can you blame the stove-maker who folded the stove. Even the most sophisticated furnace can, under certain conditions, be subject to overturning of the furnace draft.

20
feb
2016

Secrets of stove craftsmanship. Practical guide (Alexey Ryazankin)

ISBN: 5-93357-035-4
Format: DjVu, Scanned pages
Alexey Ryazankin
Year of issue: 2004
Genre: Construction and repair
Publisher: Folk Art
Russian language
Number of pages: 360

Description: The features of the device and operation of heating, heating and cooking, drying, smoking and sauna stovesas well as fireplaces and fireplace stoves. A detailed description of all types of ovens given in the book is given, which is accompanied by rich illustrative material.

The book is intended for everyone who wants to fold the stove on their own in their home.

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jan
2013

Sexual positions. Practical guide (Sakhumina N. Isaev D.)

Author: Sakhumina N. Isaev D.
Year of issue: 2003
Genre: Reference material
Publisher: Life Extension
Russian language
Number of pages: 125
Description: This publication, prepared by coitologist Neonilla Samukhina and sexologist Dmitry Isaev, contains not only an illustrated description of sexual positions, but also useful information on the anatomy, physiology and psychology of men and women with recommendations for overcoming various problems that arise during sexual intimacy. There are many candid drawings and even photographs in the book, but of course not ...

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2016

Welding works. Practical guide (Yuri Podolsky (comp.))

ISBN: 978-617-12-0106-4, 978-5-9910-3430-2
Format: FB2, RTF, eBook (originally computer)
Author: Yuri Podolsky (comp.)
Year of issue: 2015

Publisher: Family Leisure Club
Russian language
Number of pages: 530
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Year of issue: 1998
Posted by S. Jason Black, Christopher S. Hiatt
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Publisher: Nika
Number of pages: 176
Description: A white American, who for many years with varying success tried to master the heritage of Western magical systems, plunges headlong into an alien, but somehow very attractive tradition - voodoo magic. Autobiographical chapters, in which real events are perceived as a 'cool' thriller, in this book alternate with polemic chapters intended for an intelligent and unbiased reader ...

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Author: Denis Egorov
Year of issue: 2012
Genre: Textbooks, reference books, encyclopedias
Publisher: Samizdat
Russian language
Number of pages: 26
Description: Android for everyone. Practical beginner's guide - intended for those who want to quickly master the use of a smartphone on operating system Android. All major technical moments from graphical interface to software installation. All material is presented based on OS Android 2.3 with TouchWiz interface and illustrated in detail using screenshots.
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Format: FB2, eBook (originally computer)
Author: Victor Lyalko
Year of issue: 2001
Genre: Reference
Publisher: AST, Harvest
Russian language
Number of pages: 432/365
Description: This unique manual comprehensively covers the problems of women's self-defense against hooligan and criminal attacks. Its author, a well-known Russian master of martial and combat sports, examined in detail all aspects of psychological, tactical and technical preparation of women for effective self-defense in various situations. everyday life... This book is definitely ...

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Year of issue: 2012
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Description: Young maidens and forever young ladies! You, of course, know that most of the books on the problems of relations between women and men are written by women. This is bad, because the same authors know almost nothing about men themselves. The book "A Practical Guide to Hunting Men" was written for you, dear readers, by a man! You finally have the opportunity to familiarize yourself with ...

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Year of issue: 2008
Genre: erotica, psychology
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Artist: Julia Men
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Description: In this album, prepared by the coitologist Neonilla Samukhina, you will learn in detail everything about the art of oral sex, which can not only give the highest sensual pleasure, but also get rid of many sexual problems. Anyone who owns this art is not threatened by either old age or fading, for even they cannot take away from him the skill of giving "pleasure at the tip of the tongue." - Anatomy of oral sex. ...

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Author: Tikhomirov M.Yu
Year of issue: 2010
Genre: Economic literature

Russian language
Number of pages: 235
Description: In an accessible form, the content of the norms on the labor contract established by the Labor Code of the Russian Federation is consistently disclosed. The concept, content, procedure for the entry into force of labor contracts, new rules for their conclusion, amendment and termination are explained. The features of the application are shown ...

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Format: PDF, Scanned pages
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Russian language
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The construction of stoves in the country, in houses or even on the street is not complete without a very important component - brick. Of course, today you can choose any brick by brand and by the type of clay from which it is made. Nevertheless, I can consider and recommend the M-250 brand as the most practical.

Secret number 1. Brick and everything connected with it ...

This brick has a lot of quantitative indicators that will allow you to operate your furnace, without additional repair, for at least 15 seasons. But there is one subtlety - certification.

The accompanying brick is a branded sticker that can be used in court if you find the wrong brand compared to the declared one.

When buying, pay attention to the fact that this brick is not sold in open pallets, it is usually packed in two or even three layers of polyethylene and under it, each pack will have such an accompanying paper. Today, some manufacturers can produce bricks of the M-500 or even M-700 brands, but this brick is usually very expensive. Firing of this brick occurs under the influence of a temperature of 1300 - 1500 degrees, and many manufacturers cannot reach it and, as a rule, sell lower-grade bricks under high-quality brands.

If you work in a warm season, and your brick was stacked, then, as a rule, its moisture content is far from ideal and therefore, when working with it, it squeezes water out of the solution. And it often happens that the mortar used for laying dries out before it has time to set. This is especially true for masonry chimneys and other parts of the structure that are placed on cement mortar... Therefore, before laying the brick, you should "bathe" so that it is saturated with water and does not take water from the solution.

For "bathing" bricks, all containers that are on your site are suitable. The mistake of many is that they simply water the brick stacked from a watering can, a hose or just a bucket. Usually the upper rows are saturated at the rate, and the rest also receive less moisture and then “greedily” absorb it from the solution.

The brick is taken out of the water five minutes before laying, excess moisture leaves, and the internal one remains in the capillaries.

The secret of stove skill # 2. Installation of a coaxial chimney

Today, many builders prefer to use coaxial chimneys to exhaust the fumes from the stove through the roof or using a knee joint through the wall. This is both more constructively convenient and reduces the total weight of the furnace structure, which means that the foundation work for the furnace can be carried out with lower costs, both in terms of finance and time. But, it is necessary to immediately make a reservation that a coaxial chimney should not be used if the stove is used twice a day, that is, one that heats the room. This pipe, despite all the assurances of the manufacturers, will become completely unusable in five seasons.

The fact is that, especially in winter, when condensate becomes abundant, and smoke, interacting with condensate, forms an acidic environment, all this leads to the formation of significant areas of corrosion and the operation of these chimneys becomes dangerous. The main purpose of coaxial chimneys is to remove smoke from sauna stoves, fireplace complexes and heating boilers fueled by natural gas and diesel fuel.

The coaxial chimney is sold as separate “elbows” of various lengths, which are joined together by means of O-rings on the chimney body. It is imperative to use a "cap" for the crown of the pipe to avoid rain or snow from entering the chimney and it is imperative to use rubber seals to pass the chimney through the roof.

Behind the apparent ease of installation of the coaxial chimney, there is one construction trick that significantly increases the service life of the chimney, preventing the basalt wool from crumbling down from the walls, and makes the fastening to the brick more reliable.

For work we need:

• "Grinder" of low power with a cutting wheel for metal;
• pliers;
• hammer.

Work is carried out only with an assistant and taking into account all safety measures (glasses, gloves and serviceable working tools).

First, cut off 15-16 cm from the lower edge of the first chimney elbow to expose the inner chimney pipe. Using a sharp knife, remove the basalt wool along the cut line. Then, on the outer surface of the chimney, draw a circle with a simple pencil, located at a distance equal to the thickness of the wall (from the inner to the outer diameter) from the edge of the chimney. We draw stripes directed at an angle of 45 degrees to the base. And then “grinder! Carefully saw through the chimney steel along the drawn lines.

The first inclined slots are ready, with this procedure it is very important not to overheat the metal, otherwise it will corrode faster in the future, so the power of the grinder should not exceed 0.8 kW. It is very important that the helper, not you, turns the chimney.

After the slots are ready, we proceed to drawing the stripes, which are also directed at an angle of 45 degrees, but are tilted in the other direction. And we exactly repeat the process of sawing the metal of the chimney.

It is important that you stop exactly at the end of the line you drew, otherwise you can ruin the chimney. Ideally, you should get isosceles cuts triangles.

After that, we begin to bend the resulting triangles inward. Bend the bend with pliers and finish with a hammer, carefully bending the triangle to a right angle with the outer layer of the chimney.

Make sure that the seal folds with the triangle. Strength is not important here, accuracy is very important.

After folding the last triangle, place the chimney knee on a horizontal brick and check with the readings of the building level whether the knee lies flat on the base. If there are problems, then it is better to fix them at this stage of work than fixing the assembled chimney.

To better see the pressing of the brick to the bends, it is better to use one brick, so you will know exactly what needs to be fixed.

After this procedure, we begin to make cuts on the lower chimney pipe. We do, as the stove-makers say, "chamomile". The width of one petal should be at least two centimeters, and at least ten long, and five centimeters will remain so that a row of bricks tightly presses the chimney.

Pay attention to the edges of the cuts, they should not be blue tint, he says that the metal was overheated. The bottom edge of the cuts is uneven, this will interfere with the laying of the chimney.

Then, using pliers and a hammer, we give the petals a perfectly flat surface. This is best done on an anvil rather than a brick surface.

Once the petals are aligned, check how the chimney fits over the brick.

Now let your partner hold the knee upright, and you simulate the situation with laying the chimney by laying out another row of masonry.

The chimney should not rest against the brick, because you must provide a distance for the thickness of the mortar joint.

Overheated cuts of the chimney iron will disable it in less than three to four seasons of operation, it has been tested in practice.

We assemble the chimney knees on the ground, set them up to the position of the knees passing the fastening lock and fix them on self-tapping screws and put on special inter-knee clamps.

These are special self-tapping screws for metal, with a wide clamping cover and a gimbal at the end. They are popularly called "seeds", they very well press the chimney knees to each other. Their length should be no more (!) 20 mm.

After that, we install the assembled chimney on a brick crown and fix it first on the roof, and only then lay out the masonry.

We insert the chimney into the roof slot and fix it.

Cut out required diameter sealant.

And we put it on the chimney.

The chimney, protective sheet and gasket are all in place.

We attach the chimney to the crown and put a control brick.

Be sure to align the chimney according to the level readings, fix and display the two final rows of masonry.

Two rows of masonry have been laid, it remains to put a metal clamp on the crown of the brick pipe.

These are the two secrets of stove craftsmanship today. To be continued.

In the old days, specialists in the manufacture of stoves and fireplaces were worth their weight in gold. In large villages, the most important people were considered: a priest, a doctor, a blacksmith and a stove-maker.

Stove makers - the stone-makers passed on their experience and secrets from generation to generation only to the best students. Some of the secrets of the time, used in the construction and maintenance of] stoves and fireplaces, have survived. Here is some of them.

It is best to build a fireplace in the middle of summer. After completion of construction, allow 2-3 weeks for natural drying.

In ancient times, immediately after construction, a fireplace was lined with skins - fur to stone - for 10 days. It was believed that in this way the fireplace would gain warmth from nature.

After complete drying in the hot season, the first fireplace was made in the early morning from 5 to 7 in the morning. This was considered essential for a long and good functioning of the fireplace.

The clay for making the fireplace was tested in two ways.

The first method: a wooden stick was inserted into a prepared barrel of clay (liquid) and slowly pulled out. The clay was supposed to stick to it, not slip.

The second method: a ball (about 5 cm in diameter) was rolled out of clay and kept in the sun for 3 for or in a room for 5 days. Then they threw it on a wooden floor from a height of one meter. A whole ball - excellent clay.

It was believed that the longer the clay was kneaded, the more durable the caine would be. Information was received that for "responsible" fireplaces in the royal lands, clay, onfor 6 months.

Close the front part of the fireplace with a curtain made of chains - then sparks cannot enter the room.

1 It is believed that firewood from a 2-year-old felling burns best.

2 Old masters recommend not throwing potato peelings into the pit, but drying them. Burning a bucket of dried potato peels once every two months can completely remove soot and condensation from the chimney. For this, you can use aspen. It is not as effective, but it also gives a positive result.

To give the fire originality, sprinkle the wood with a strong salty water solution. Then the flame of fire will present to those sitting in the room multi-colored tongues of flame. The same effect can be achieved by sprinkling the wood with diluted copper sulfate.

On holidays or special days small "sheaves" of thin cherry twigs are thrown into the fireplace on hot coals. Burning out, this tree gives off a pleasant smell that fills the room.

Soot that settles on decorative elements, white pieces of marble or on stone was removed by our grandmothers with a cloth dipped in lemon juice. Boric acid can also be used for this purpose.

Winemakers, boasting to each other about the quality of their wine, poured one glass onto the hot coals of the fireplace and determined the championship by the fire.

Old-timers say that when a head hurts, you need to dip your left hand into cold water and rub her forehead, then comb her hair (1 min), collect the hairs with a damp hand from the comb and throw them into the fireplace (burning or smoldering). And the disease will leave you. Warm up by the fireplace and don't get sick