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Skilled craftsmen for making various decorative crafts can use even the simplest folding knives with wooden handle... However, a beginner for carving should use a specialized tool that will allow you to perform all basic operations without additional effort.

In our article we will tell you what kind of knives you can handle wood, as well as give recommendations on self-production and sharpening such tools.

Description and types of tools

Wood carving knives can have the most different shape... As a rule, they differ from conventional knives by the shortened blade. This design feature is explained quite simply: when carving, the tip experiences a fairly strong load, and therefore the shorter the metal part, the less the risk of its breakage under pressure.

Depending on the type of construction, there are several types of cutting knives.

View	Features:
Cutter	A utility knife that is used both for shaping and for making small parts... The design usually features an elongated blade with a straight or curved cutting edge. The types of cutters are: Bogorodsky knife - simple model with a flat cutting edge and curved back. Allows you to perform a wide variety of operations, from rough to the most delicate. European carving knife - in fact, a copy of the Bogorodsky cutter, but with a reduced blade and an elongated teardrop-shaped handle. Knife with replaceable blades. A modern product that most often has a collet design. The blades are fixed in a clamping mechanism and quickly changed if necessary.
Jamb	Structurally, the knife-jamb for wood carving repeats the cutter's scheme, but it is characterized by a larger bevel angle of the blade. Due to this, the jamb can be subjected to heavy loads, which is actively used when carving on flat surfaces. At the same time, the technique of some craftsmen involves the use of a jamb as the main knife due to a sufficiently long cutting edge.
Auxiliary tool	When making carving, besides knives, craftsmen also use other cutting tools, such as: Chisels (straight and curved) Cluckars. Lozhkorezi. Klepiki, etc. In fact, they are not all knives, but have a cutting edge.

In addition, other tools used in mechanical woodworking are sometimes included in the classification.

These include:

Wood milling knives are either complete cutters or removable parts of cutters.
Jointing knives for woodworking machines - used when machining elongated parts.
Planing blades - used, as the name implies, in planing machines.

However, these and other types of parts for carving are used only as auxiliary ones, therefore we will not dwell on their description in detail.

Making a knife

Making the blade

When choosing a cutting knife, you should give preference to simple and reliable models made of high quality steel. However, the price of such products is quite high, because beginners most often purchase cheaper models, and therefore inevitably become disappointed in the quality of cutters.

Making a knife with your own hands can be a way out in such a situation. This task is solved quite simply, so that even a beginner in plumbing can quickly acquire their own tool.

First of all, we need to find suitable material... This is not difficult as we need a fairly small piece of good steel.

As a blank for a future knife, the following can be used:

A strip of good steel is about 8 - 12 cm long, up to 2.5 cm wide and 1.5 - 2.2 mm thick. The brand does not play a special role, as long as the material is strong enough and keeps sharpening well - both P6 / P6M5, and P9, and even P3AM3F2 will do.

Conclusion

If necessary, knives for cutting wood can be made independently - there are no particular difficulties in this even for a beginner. But the result will be that you have the perfect tool for all your requirements.

You can learn more about the features of such devices, as well as the technique of their manufacture, sharpening and use, in the video in this article.

Wood carving technique
Let's make it yourself
Blade
Lever
Sharpening

Wood carving knives are a must-have in the arsenal of a craftsman who makes decorative objects from natural wood.

Such instruments may have different types and shape, which directly affects the specifics of processing individual parts. The most famous cutter, which is very popular among our craftsmen, is the Bogorodsky knife.

Wood carving technique

Wood carving is a complex, but very interesting technique for decorating products, known for a long time. Getting started, as a rule, consists in creating a blank, or, more simply, a deck or blank. Next, the surface is roughly processed, during which it is leveled and get rid of all kinds of defects. Then comes the turn of the artistic work, which the master carries out with the help of woodcarving tools. Technically, such a process looks like sampling a piece of wood, which allows you to give the workpiece a relief and volume. This stage can be called the main one, because it depends on it what the final look of the product will be. Finishing of a decorative item consists in sanding wood and impregnating it with antiseptics and paints and varnishes.

For this type of manual work, cutting tools with different blade configurations can be used. The purity of the ornament on the wood depends on their quality, no less than on the skill of the carpenter, so it is necessary to ensure that the chisel blade is strong, sharp and does not have jags. If a experienced craftsmen can blindly determine the type and quality of carpentry knives, choosing wood cutters for beginners can be a daunting task. For those who are not yet fully familiar with the features of the selection and manufacture of cutters, we suggest that you familiarize yourself in more detail with their main types and method of application. You can also learn how to make wood cutters on your own by setting them the required size and shape.

Kinds

It is believed that master virtuosos can get by with one or two incisors, however, as practice shows, it will help to achieve the best result and facilitate work good set special carpentry tools, which includes chisels with blades of various shapes. Industry experts recommend adding the following items to your arsenal:

Along with devices for cutting openwork elements, there are additional items that no joiner can do without. These tools include hacksaws, jigsaws, drills, hacksaws for wood can be used for roughing or finishing work (saber, bow).

Those craftsmen who work with large-sized structures acquire not only a hacksaw tool, but also include hatchet cutters, or, as they are also called, curly adzes, in their arsenal. Their principle of operation is similar to that by which cutting tools of a smaller sample work with the only difference in scale and purity of the process. Beginners who are just starting to comprehend the craft do not understand the varieties of the instrument as thoroughly as experienced craftsmen, so the main thing here is to observe the golden rule - quality is above all. Since buying good-quality knives can be expensive, many make cutters on their own, especially since today it is easy to find suitable videos and photo lessons on the Internet. Next, we will tell you how to make do-it-yourself knives for curly carving from scrap materials.

Let's make it yourself

Let's make a reservation right away that the high price does not always force the carpenter to take drastic measures. Often good experienced master cannot find a tool for himself that would meet his requirements, and this also becomes a reason for independent work above the incisor. In principle, this task is solved quite successfully, the main thing is to know what to make the incisors from and what technology to use in this case.

Blade

In most cases, as a raw material for self-preparation regular canvas for wood or metal will do. From such a material, you can get an excellent jamb knife - just break off by hand or cut a segment of the blade on a lathe, and then form a cutting edge. The disc from the saw for wood also has decent characteristics suitable for our product, because it is very important what steel the jamb is made of, and here we are dealing with carbon metal, which is easy to sharpen and remains sharp for a long time even when working with hard rocks wood.

If your future homemade cutter will be designed for picking wood, it should have a semicircular blade shape, and in this case it is better to make it from a punch, which can be found in almost every home workshop. In private carpentry workshops, you can find homemade cutters from a bearing, which have also proven themselves well in work.

Lever

When the cutting part of the chisel is ready, you can start making an equally important part of the tool - the handle. Here we need a wooden block, and it is better if it is hardwood, from which we will need to cut a holder with a hole in the end. Please note that the shape of the hole must correspond to a similar parameter to the metal shank of a woodcarving knife made from a blade or disc with your own hands.

In the event that a handle consisting of two parts is used to make a wood cutter, it is recommended to additionally fix the blade with fasteners, and the gluing process should be carried out using a vice or clamps.

Sharpening

A carver will be able to achieve a worthy result in artistic craft only if the made tool is sharp. When carving wood, knives tend to dull, so a properly sharpened joint can work for a long time without re-processing.

Sculptural composition, work of A.V. Novoselov

To perform all types of carving, various elements of home decoration, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts, a special tool is needed.

Carving tools can be distinguished as main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Various electrified household tools and appliances based on an electric motor are also widely used, which the master can make himself.

All tools must be of excellent quality so that you can easily carry out carving work of any complexity.

The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that the tree is cut like "oil", it should be kept in perfect condition.

A blunt tool crumbles, crumples, does not cut wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This spoils the mood and often discourages the desire to finish the job. It is easy and pleasant to work with a sharp tool, the drawing is clean, accurate, beautiful. By the finished product, you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also with what and how he performed the work.

Cutting tool

Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from the Bogorodsk sculpture carving.

Bogorodsky knife

Jamb knife (angle of sharpening of chamfers 20 °, bevel angle 35 0; 45 °; 60 °), used for flat, flat, flat-relief, embossed, openwork carving.

Jamb knife

Cutter knife - used as an auxiliary tool for different types threads.

Cutter knife

Straight chisels (sharpening angle 18-20 °); used as an auxiliary tool for various types of thread.

Chisel straight

Semicircular chisels - the main tool used to perform all types of wood carving. There are: - sloping (R˃H), medium (R \u003d H), steep (R˂H).

Half-round chisels

Sameski - cranberries these are chisels with a curved blade that allows, when carving, not to touch the work surface with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel, cranberry-corner. cranberry-semicircular chisel.

Cranberry chisels

Tseraziki chisels resemble steep semicircular chisels. Their web width is 2 ... 3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the cross-sections of which correspond to the profile of the instrument.

Tserazik chisel

Chisels - corners or geismuses. (the angle between the cutting edges is 50-70 °). They are used for sampling a V-shaped groove, used for making contour thread elements.

Corner chisel or geismus

Shtikhel. The graders always have a 15 degree bend angle. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used to select various veins in the manufacture of engravings.

Shtikhel

Klepiki. Studs are the most different sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: a sword, a leaf and a marigold. The first two are called so: rivet sword and rivet leaf.

They are used in flat-relief and volumetric thread to clean the background in hard-to-reach places.

Klepik sword, klepik leaf

Chisel-marigold. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the form of sharpening. It resembles a fingernail. The purpose of the marigolds is stripping in hard-to-reach places and performing stapled thread elements.

Chisel-marigold

Spooners (spoon knives). The best spoon is a sharpened ring with a rod welded to it. Spoons are needed to remove a large volume of material in recesses and to process the inner walls when making dishes.

Spooners

Punches and embossings - these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for embossing backgrounds in flat-relief and relief carvings.

The cutting tool is made of tool steels:

1-Carbonaceous (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened are determined by a white beam of sparks with individual asterisks.

2-Alloyed (ХВ5; Х12; Ч12М), when sharpened, they give yellow or orange sparks.

3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened, give dark red sparks.

Tool sharpening and dressing

Correct sharpening of the tool is of great importance for making quality woodcarving.

Tool sharpening consists of two stages:

1- chamfering;

2- edits.

1. Chamfering. Chamfering can be done with an electric grinder (see fig.), A hand-powered grinder or manually with an abrasive bar.

Electric grinder for sharpening and dressing the tool: a - a mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, dressing and polishing the tool: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device;: 1 - horizontal movement lock; 2 - movable platform for choosing the sharpening angle; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; c - tool for dressing and polishing (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber discs with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.

The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.

Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; in - on the corner chisels: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.

Chisel position when sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and flat; 3 - chisel - corner;

When sharpening it is necessary:

Maintain the specified taper angle;

Maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be even without traces of sticking;

Blurring of the instrument is not allowed (prevent from periodic wetting of the instrument in water).

2. Edit. Editing a tool is understood as increasing the cleanliness of the blade sharpening, deburring, and improving the sharpening. To edit the tool, use microcorundum donkeys (Fig.), Skins, leather.

Jamb sharpening: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -

chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;

b - hand position during work;

For semicircular incisors, a straightening board is made of linden, cuts on its surface are transverse grooves for incisors of different sizes (Fig.).

Straightening boards and belts

1 - a board with a set of profile bars and donuts;

2 - straightening board with chisel profiles;

3 - leather or canvas strap for straightening.

Before straightening, GOI paste is rubbed into the straightening board. The inner surface of the semicircular incisors is ruled with round wooden rods wrapped with fine abrasive cloth or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the tool on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.

A properly sharpened tool should have a specified angle of sharpness, blade shape, and no burrs.

When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.

Literature:

1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.

House carving-M .: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.

2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.

Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Yekaterinburg: Ural. state forestry engineering. un-t. 2012.

In this article I will tell you how and from what to make a good oblique knife (jamb knife) with your own hands. Such a knife is used for wood carving, for working with leather or other thin sheet materials.

It is known that the quality of a knife is determined by the quality of its blade. And the quality of the blade, respectively, is the steel from which it is made. But where is home master take high-grade steel, hard, well-holding sharpening ?! And the answer is simple - you just need to look around.

Option one Jamb knife from a construction nail-dowel ... Just a great steel with hardness and ductility (of course, because they are hammered into concrete and do not break at the same time).

We hammer a dowel into the end of the workpiece under the handle (a piece of a shovel handle about 12-25 cm long is perfect).

On an emery or a grinder's scraping disc, grind off the hat from the sides and at an angle of 30-45 degrees to make a blade. Using a knife, a file of sanding paper, we cut out the handle under the arm.

Due to the fact that the blade is rather narrow, it is better to use it as a knife for carving wood, although there is also another use for such a blade.

Or an option for finer work with a pen that you can hold like a writing pen

Option two A jamb knife from a cloth from a hacksaw for metal. More precisely, a piece of it, of which there will be a huge amount in any workshop.

The disadvantages of knives made from a hacksaw blade include fragility in the transverse direction (a hardened blade breaks quite easily under the wrong load), in addition, the process of making a knife is more laborious. But the blade turns out to be wider, which means more functional than a dowel knife.

We sharpen the canvas at an angle of 60 degrees. Chamfering can be done both on both sides and on one side. A jamb knife with one-sided sharpening, by the way, is good for.

The handle can be made in two versions - simple and fast, as well as beautiful, convenient, but complex. Simple and quick - just wrap a thick layer of electrical tape around the handle - not very nice, but cheap and cheerful. And it's not a pity to break.

The second option is a wooden handle. Made of two halves. You need to take either two planed planks well adjacent to each other, or carefully split one (but only evenly). In one of the blanks, a groove for the blade is cut out with a chisel or simply with a knife, they are coated with glue, folded together and fixed (with clamps, you can wrap it tightly with a rope).

In the example shown in the photo, because the planks were far from perfect and the glue joint was not very strong, I riveted them with three rivets of aluminum wire - the third one is not visible in the photo - it is not through and goes through a hole in the canvas.

Any specialist knows perfectly well how important it is to have a good and reliable tool at hand. Unfortunately, it happens that he is not there at the right moment. This is where the search begins for either a finished instrument, or numerous other options.

It happened to me too. Back in my carefree childhood, I tried to learn. For these purposes, he even acquired a set of cutters (manufacturer - "Voykov Zaporozhye Tool Plant"). Much of it has been lost by now, but the semicircular chisels have survived. Unfortunately, my attempts to master carving in those days were not crowned with success - there was no one to show the basic techniques of working with the tool. As a result, there are many scars on my left hand and a repulsed - almost literally - desire to improve in this direction.

This fall, I have a desire to catch up. Fortunately, there was time - I had to stop my impromptu in the garage and patiently wait for spring. But now I decided to start by making a suitable tool, and first of all - knives for wood carving. One of the incentives was their absence in local stores.

My knives (jambs and cutters) had to meet the following requirements:
high quality steel from which they will be made;
ergonomic (comfortable) handles;
relative ease of manufacture;
reliability.

In addition, I planned to use the materials that were available for the knives.

Materials and tools for making knives

As source material I used pieces to make the blades. Previously, I used them to make kitchen knives - they keep sharpening well.

For the handles, I used trims of oak planks left over from other work. Oak is a durable, beautiful and technological material.

For work, I needed an electric sharpener, a belt sander (grain size of the skin - 40), an ordinary hacksaw, a sanding cloth (grain size 80, and for finishing - 240, 800 and 1000), a respirator (gauze mask) - to protect the respiratory organs.

All parts were glued with Titebond II wood glue.

Blade making

From pieces of a saw blade about 8 cm long, I carved metal blanks for blades of the desired shape. On the blanks, he left shanks about 4.5-5 cm long. These sizes provide sufficient strength for fastening the blade in the handle. For a more reliable fixation (so that it does not loosen and does not fall out of the handle), I made semicircular notches on the sides of the shank.

The section of the knife blade usually has a wedge-shaped taper (approximately at an angle of 10-15 °) from the butt to the cutting edge. This is the so-called large chamfer or blade descent. The cutting edge itself is formed by a small chamfer (feed) - a steeper taper (at an angle of 25-30 °) in the immediate vicinity of the blade.

I make a large chamfer on the knives before glueing the shank into the handle. When forming a chamfer, I grind the workpiece from two sides at the desired angle. At the same time, I try to grind the metal symmetrically.

The most important thing in this work is not to rush. With intensive turning, the metal heats up and is tempered. That is, the metal becomes softer and loses its ability to keep sharpening. In addition, I cool the workpiece to be turned from time to time in water, preventing it from overheating. To do this, I put a container with cold water and periodically lower the blank into it. The final shaping of the blade, sharpening and polishing is done on the finished knife.

Making a knife handle

For the handle, oak sticks with a section of 12x22 mm and a length of a little more than 12 cm came up. I selected the bars so that the surfaces to be glued were even. To simplify the work, I chose the socket for the shank in one of the halves of the future handle.

The sequence of operations is as follows. The shank was processed with a sanding paper along the edges (knocked down burrs). After that, applying the shank to the previously prepared block, I traced it with a pencil or pen. Then, with chisels, I chose the nest to a depth equal to the thickness of the workpiece, from time to time collecting the entire structure "dry" to check how the blocks adhere to each other. If the depth of the socket is not enough, the handle will not stick together or it will not stick well, and the handle may split during operation. At the same time, if the socket is too deep, the blade will walk from side to side, which is also fraught with undesirable consequences - cracking of the handle or deformation of the shank. Thus, it is necessary to select the socket for the shank as accurately as possible. I know this from my own experience - I repeatedly had to split the already made handles of kitchen knives and replace them with new ones only because the shanks were not tight!

After the required result (tight fit of the shank and the absence of gaps between the handle halves) has been obtained during the control assembly "dry" of all the parts, you can proceed to gluing. The glue was applied to the surface of the bar and into the socket under the shank - when manually sampling the socket, inaccuracies in depth cannot be avoided, and it is better to fill possible cavities with glue, which will harden when dry and will hold the shank. I also applied a layer of glue to the counterpart of the future handle, but thinner.

Then he combined the parts (it is necessary to connect the ends of the blocks closer to the blade as accurately as possible) and tightened them with clamps. I tried to pull it as tightly as possible, but, as they say, without fanaticism, so as not to split the bars. The squeezed out excess glue was removed with a damp cloth and the workpiece was left for about 12 hours until the glue was completely dry.

After that, I checked the tightness of the shank in the handle: I held the handle with one hand, and with the other I tried to loosen the blade. If at the same time subtle quiet creaking sounds were heard, then such a handle is useless and needs to be redone. With a well-done work, no extraneous sounds shouldn't be.

Handle fit

For myself, I have long ago identified the most suitable forms handles for cutting tools. For example, on the handles of kitchen knives and carving knives, I usually make a slight bend in the back to support my thumb. There are general features handles of all tools, namely:
the back of the handle is wider and more rounded than the one closer to the blade, so all the blanks for the handles at the beginning of processing resemble a truncated elongated pyramid;
the handle has a recess for the index finger.

When the workpiece is glued, with a hacksaw or miter saw I saw off the back, based on the required dimensions (in my case - 12 cm).

After that, I turn to turning the edges of the handle with a belt sander. I work using personal protective equipment - goggles and a respirator, as oak dust can cause allergies.

You should not strive to carve the handle of the tool as accurately as possible on a 40-grit tape. It is better to leave small allowances for more precise processing with fine sandpaper by hand. I always cover the prepared handles with nitro varnish (I like it better).

Finishing the blade

Let's go back to the question of forming the cutting edge. The sharpening angle of a large chamfer of 10-15 ° is suitable, perhaps, for a straight razor, but for a knife on wood (even the softest one) it is still small. When processing a wooden blank with such a knife, the tip will wrinkle or chip. Therefore, a small chamfer is needed, the sharpening angle of which for my knives is about 25-30 °.

To form a small chamfer, I use abrasive paper (but you can also use bars) of different grain sizes according to the principle from larger to smaller. First, I take a grain of 240 grit, then 800, then 1000 and finally polish it on a leather belt fixed to a wooden block.

With good sharpening, the wood should be cut both along and across the grain without much effort. And the cut surface should be smooth and shiny - in this case, they say that an "oil" cut is obtained.

I check the quality of sharpening on a board specially used for these purposes. I take the board from a soft wood, since it is more difficult to achieve an "oil" cut on such a board than on workpieces made of hard wood.

Naturally, in the process of carving, the knife becomes dull, and it is necessary to restore the cutting edge from time to time. I do it as follows: I put a sheet of abrasive paper on a flat wooden block and perform several lapping movements, after which I bring the knife on the belt.

Following the described scheme, I made several knives in the fall. They are quite functional - reliable and convenient. For a beginner, I think not bad! I plan to use the gained experience to expand the collection of my instrument. I hope knives will become my faithful helpers in mastering wood carving.

DIY Wood Carving Knives: Robot Sequence

1. I used a band saw blade as a blank for making knives blades.
2. The shanks of all blades have approximately the same shape.

To make a triangular-notched thread, you need only one tool - a jamb knife (Fig. 1). It is so called because it has a beveled blade.

Figure: 1 Jamb knife

How to make a jamb knife

1. Take a plank 10-12 mm thick from any wood, but without knots.

2. Use a jigsaw or a hacksaw to cut two identical pieces 130 mm long and 32 mm wide.

3. Sandpaper ("sandpaper"), wrapped around a small, work on one wide side of each workpiece.

4. After that, mark the groove for the knife blade on the ground side of one of the blanks (Fig. 2)

Figure: 2 Marking the groove for the knife blade

5. Use a 10 mm flat chisel to cut the groove (fig. 3).

Fig. 3 Slotting technique

6. Insert the blade (possibly an old or broken blade from a hacksaw), the length of which is 6.5-7 cm, into the groove, having previously coated it with PVA glue and the entire surface on which it is located.

7. Glue the now ground side of the second workpiece and carefully connect them (Fig. 4 a, b), then place it under the load or clamp it with clamps.

Figure: 4 Joining knife parts

8. When the glue is dry, after about 12 hours, use a sharpened knife to process the handle so that it fits comfortably in your hand. The handle can be of any shape (fig. 5). After processing with a knife, sand the handle with a fine-grained "sandpaper".

Figure: 5 Possible forms of the jamb knife handle

In fig. 6 shows a drawing of an easy-to-manufacture and easy-to-use pen. Practice has shown that a knife with such a handle can be used by a cutter both with a small hand and with a large one.

Figure: 6 Drawing of a comfortable handle for a knife

The knife must always be sharply sharpened, otherwise you will not get any pleasure from carving. Therefore, pay special attention to sharpening.

First you need to grind off the angle of the blade so that it is 60 ° in relation to the cutting plane (fig. 7). How to do this is shown. Then you should sharpen the cutting surface, which should be 2-3 mm wide. Sharpening is carried out on both sides until a burr appears on the blade.

Figure: 7 How to shape the blade

For grinding, the blade must be placed on the block with the cutting surface, press and move the knife back and forth until the burr disappears. Both cutting surfaces of the blade are ground.

The knife after such processing becomes sharp, but we need the jamb knife to become like a razor, that is, it literally has to shave. This is the only way the carver's knife should be. And for this you also need to polish the cutting surfaces so that they become super smooth and clean. This is achieved by processing on a felt wheel coated with GOI polishing paste.

Polishing is carried out using a drill, into which a mandrel with a felt wheel is fixed. When polishing (Fig. 9, b), the knife must be held differently than when sharpening (Fig. 9, a). If the correct technique is violated, you can damage the circle and break the knife.

Figure: 8 How to hold a knife when a - sharpening, b - polishing

The jamb knife is now ready to go. Use a foam sheath to protect the blade. After every 2-3 hours of continuous work, polish the cutting surfaces - and the knife will always be sharp. Cutting with such a tool will become a pleasure for you.

All photos from the article

Experienced craftsmen can use even the simplest folding knives with a wooden handle to make various decorative crafts. However, a beginner for carving should use a specialized tool that will allow you to perform all basic operations without additional effort.

In our article we will tell you what kind of knives you can handle wood, as well as give recommendations on how to make and sharpen such tools yourself.

Description and types of tools

Wood carving knives come in many different shapes. They usually differ from conventional knives in that they have a shortened blade. This design feature is explained quite simply: when carving, the tip experiences a fairly strong load, and therefore the shorter the metal part, the less the risk of its breakage under pressure.

Depending on the type of construction, there are several types of cutting knives.

View	Features:
Cutter	A utility knife that is used both for shaping the basic shape and for making small parts. The design usually features an elongated blade with a straight or curved cutting edge. The types of cutters are: The Bogorodsky knife is a simple model with a flat cutting edge and curved back. Allows you to perform a variety of operations, from rough to the most delicate. European carving knife - in fact, a copy of the Bogorodsky cutter, but with a reduced blade and an elongated teardrop-shaped handle. Knife with replaceable blades. A modern product that most often has a collet design. The blades are fixed in a clamping mechanism and quickly changed if necessary.
Jamb	Structurally, the knife-jamb for wood carving repeats the cutter pattern, but it is characterized by a larger bevel angle of the blade. Due to this, the jamb can be exposed, which is actively used when carving on flat surfaces. At the same time, the technique of some craftsmen involves the use of a jamb as the main knife due to a sufficiently long cutting edge.
Auxiliary tool	When making carving, besides knives, craftsmen also use other cutting tools, such as: Chisels (straight and curved) Cluckars. Lozhkorezi. Klepiki, etc. In fact, they are not all knives, but have a cutting edge.

In addition, other tools used in mechanical woodworking are sometimes included in the classification.

These include:

Wood milling knives are either complete cutters or removable parts of cutters.
Jointing knives for woodworking machines - used when machining elongated parts.
Planing blades - used, as the name implies, in planing machines.

However, these and other types of parts for carving are used only as auxiliary ones, therefore we will not dwell on their description in detail.