There is a gasket between the iron and the wood. How to close up the gaps between the roof and the wall. Types of junction to the wall. Leakage at the vertical plane interface. The use of metal rafters

Sealants appeared on the domestic market relatively recently, about ten years ago. And in such a short time they managed to win recognition among amateurs and professionals.

Sealants appeared on the domestic market relatively recently, about ten years ago. And in such a short time they managed to win recognition among amateurs and professionals. In our country, a huge number of cylinders of sealant are consumed per year. Only the Germans are ahead of us, they are even more actively using sealants and polyurethane foams. But, judging by the forecasts of experts, the Russians have every chance to "overtake" the inhabitants of Germany in this matter, since both polyurethane foam, and sealants will remain at the peak of popularity for many, many years to come.
Starting our review, it is necessary to distinguish between concepts such as polyurethane foam and sealant. The fact is that the polyurethane foam has a scientific name - experts often call it polyurethane foam sealant. Therefore, it is rather difficult for a non-professional to figure out what kind of material (foam or sealant) we are talking about.
If we explain in everyday language, the difference between polyurethane foam and sealant is that the polyurethane foam, after being squeezed out of the cylinder, increases in volume approximately three times, while the sealant layer remains either the same or, when dry, slightly decreases in volume. Given these fundamental features of the two materials, experts clearly distinguish between the areas of application of each of them. Mounting foam is used for sealing, sealing, sound and heat insulation of seams and joints of structures, window and door blocks, pipelines. Sealants are used for sealing seams and cracks, as well as for filling shallow voids at joints and bends.
Polyurethane foam, as a rule, is packaged in special cartridges (cylinders), which contain a liquid prepolymer and a propellant (propellant). As soon as the contents of the cartridge are squeezed onto the surface, a chemical reaction will begin: under the influence of moisture and oxygen, the components of the material begin to polymerize, while increasing in volume, as if "swelling". The result is a rather rigid layer of polyurethane foam, somewhat reminiscent of foam in its properties.
Foam has a number of properties that are attractive to every builder. It is worth noting its excellent adhesion to most materials used in construction. It provides reliable contact with wood, brick, concrete, metal and other building and finishing materials. The only exceptions are polyethylene, polypropylene, teflon, silicone. This material is not afraid of moisture, so it can be used for facade and other exterior work. Foam is a good heat and sound insulator, while it does not degrade or shrink over time. A pleasant addition to all of the above will be the fact that it is non-flammable and non-toxic (the temperature of spontaneous combustion is more than + 40C). Add to this the ease of use, and you will understand why polyurethane foam has become an indispensable assistant when you need to seal something, attach, connect separate parts of structures.
Before the advent of polyurethane foam, builders had to use various combinations of traditional materials for these purposes - cement, cork, bitumen, tapes from mineral wool, plaster and others. An example is the installation of door and window blocks. Previously, in order to fill the voids, builders had to prepare a “signature dish” of cement and tow. First, they diluted the cement with water, then mixed it with tow. Then, dodging in every conceivable and inconceivable way, the openings between the boxes and the walls were closed. From the outside, the editing process looked more like an outlandish sports entertainment than a professional activity. Now the polyurethane foam, expanding, fills all hard-to-reach cavities and joints, with minimal efforts by the builder. By the way, we note that foam is considered the most effective tool for installing windows and doors without nails and screws today. However, when working with it, one important detail must be taken into account: since the foam increases its volume two to three times, then when installing window and door blocks, it is necessary to install safety fasteners (spacers) that will not allow deformation of the structure.
Currently, a very wide selection of polyurethane foam, both imported and domestic, is presented on the city's construction market. Unfortunately, not all manufacturers offer quality formulations. For example, sometimes gases harmful to the ozone layer are used as propellant. Or manufacturers simply do not add polyurethane foam to the cylinders. This is done for the sake of quick profits, because cheap foam is being bought more actively. But when making a choice in favor of a cheap product, one must remember that the low price, in this case, is justified by the low quality.
Among the imported polyurethane foams, the most common materials are made in Germany, Finland, Denmark, Holland and Estonia. You can also find polyurethane foam sealant made in Belgium, Switzerland, Slovenia and other countries. On average, the price for a 750 ml bottle ranges from $ 2.1 to $ 4 depending on the types of foam and the brand of the manufacturer. The most expensive is the so-called winter foam, which has higher thermal and insulating properties. The price of a standard cylinder of such foam starts at $ 3.

If foam, then Makroflex?

It makes sense to start descriptions of polyurethane foams with the most popular brand - Makroflex (Finland). Makroflex polyurethane foam is a closed cell polyurethane curing foam that hardens under the influence of air humidity. Shoveling foam is comfortable and easy to handle and quick to apply. During the formation of the structure, the self-expanding foam approximately doubles in volume. Makroflex adheres to wood, concrete, stone, metal and other materials. Surfaces may be damp, but not icy or frosty. The content of one cylinder gives, depending on the conditions (temperature, air humidity, the possibility of free expansion of the foam, etc.), from 30 to 45 liters of ready-made foam.
Areas of use: installation of doors and windows; sealing joints, holes, slots and joints; sealing of joints roof structures and insulating materials; installation of soundproof thermal insulation materials; sealing of pipe passages.
Has a weak specific odor during hardening, in the hardened state it is odorless.
Subsequent expansion: 2-2.5 times
Packaging
Aerosol cans 1000/750 ml, 650/500 ml, 405/300 ml.
Makroflex PRO is a quick and easy to use one-component polyurethane gun foam that hardens when exposed to humidity. The cylinder is equipped with a special valve for use with a pistol. The foam surface dries within 20 minutes and fully cured within 24 hours. The content of one cylinder gives, depending on the conditions (temperature, air humidity, the possibility of free expansion of the foam, etc.), up to 45 liters of ready-made sanding foam. After the first expansion, the volume of Makroflex PRO foam does not change. The finished foam is non-flammable and non-toxic.
Curing time: about an hour (at 93% air humidity) or 18 hours (at approx. 15% air humidity); Max. 24 hours
Aerosol can 750/1000 ml, equipped with a pistol valve.
"Soudal" professional foam (Belgium) with a foaming agent that is safe for the ozone layer. The bottle is equipped with a special valve for using the applicator gun. The use of a gun makes work easier and easier, allows you to accurately and accurately apply foam. Used for installation window frames and doorways, thermal insulation of pipes, electrical wiring, insulation of various building materials, filling holes and gaps, fixing various building materials to concrete, plaster, etc.
The Penoflex Classic polyurethane foam from the Estonian plant Krimelte has strong adhesive properties and is a good thermal and sound insulator. Can be painted. Adheres well to most building materials, except for polyethylene and silicone surfaces.

Packaging: 750, 500, 340 ml.
Penoflex Pro Plus foam is used with a special gun. It is primarily intended for professional use. Has the same characteristics as Penoflex Classic.
Packaging: 750 ml.
High quality polyurethane foam Penoseal GoldGun (Krimelte) is used for installing windows and doors. Possesses powerful adhesive properties and is a good thermal and sound insulator. The foam hardens in 20 minutes, and reaches full readiness in 24 hours. Depending on the application, the initial expansion is 80% followed by 20%. Foam adheres to all materials except ice, silicone, Teflon. Penoseal GoldGun is suitable for use in the most extreme conditions.
Packaging - 750 ml.
Selena is a global manufacturer of a wide range of construction chemicals. For professional users, this company offers products under the Tytan trademark. In Russia, this brand is already successful and includes polyurethane foams, sealants, assembly adhesives, roof repair and protection systems and construction tapes.
One-component polyurethane foam Tytan 65 is intended for sealing and installation of building materials. Shows high adhesion to building materials such as: brick, concrete, plaster, wood, glass, metals, styrofoam, rigid PVC and rigid PU foams. It is characterized by high heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties, resistance to aging, mold and fungi. Application with a pistol guarantees the accuracy and speed of dispensing, saving foam output.
Thanks to the use of a new generation of components and higher expandability, the highest performance polyurethane foam on the market is obtained. From one cylinder of Tytan 65 with a volume of 750 ml, you can get 40% more foam, that is, 65 liters of foam with free foaming or 100 running meters sealed slots (in the context of 5 sq. cm) or 170 running meters of sealed slots (in the context of 3 sq. cm).
Areas of use: filling and sealing joints when installing windows and doors; filling gaps; sealing gaps in the walls; soundproofing and sealing of building partitions, cabins of cars and boats; sealing and thermal insulation of water supply, sewerage and central heating networks; joining and sealing prefabricated timber elements in frame construction; thermal insulation of roofs and combined floors.
Thanks to the modern formulation and the use of high quality raw materials, the guaranteed shelf life of this foam has been increased to 18 months.
Packaging: 750 ml.
One-component ready-to-use polyurethane foam Tytan B2, moisture curing, is intended for sealing and installation of window frames and door frames... The foam is self-expanding and has excellent adhesion to: wood, concrete, stone and other materials. Does not adhere to polyethylene, silicone and Teflon. The surfaces must be damp, free of frost and ice. Keep away from dust within 20 minutes, maximum curing time 24 hours. Productivity: 45 liters, depending on working conditions.
Differs in adhesion to most building materials, high heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties. The foam is resistant to moisture and aging. Has high filling properties.
Packaging: 300, 500 and 750 ml.
Tytan for PVC is a ready-to-use, moisture-curing, one-component polyurethane foam specially recommended for the professional installation of PVC window frames and door frames. This product is characterized by extremely high adhesion to PVC profiles, as well as to other smooth and porous surfaces when installing windows and doors: glass, painted surfaces, masonry, brick, plaster, concrete, wood, metal and others. Low-expanding formulation eliminates deformation pVC profiles and ensures complete filling of the gaps. Saves energy thanks to its excellent thermal insulation properties. The foam is resistant to mold and mildew. Application with a pistol guarantees the accuracy and speed of dispensing, saving foam output.
It is used for filling and sealing joints when installing PVC windows and doors; sealing and thermal insulation of water supply, sewerage and central heating networks; gluing and insulating wall panels, corrugated sheets, tiles, etc .; joining and sealing prefabricated timber elements in timber frame construction.
Packaging: 750 ml.
Polyurethane foam sealants of the Finnish concern Chemlux are designed to seal seams and joints when installing windows and doors, heat and sound insulation materials. Chemlux polyurethane foam is a one-component polyurethane-based foam that cures when exposed to moisture in the air.
Chemlux Foam - household polyurethane foam; 750 ml.
Chemlux Express - household polyurethane foam; 500 ml
Chemlux Pro - professional polyurethane foam; 750 ml.
Chemlux Winter / Winter Pro - household and professional polyurethane foam; 750 ml.
Polyurethane foam of the Matequs trademark has two types of MQS professional and standard. These one-component formulations are used when installation works and sealing around window frames, window sills, door frames. Has good adhesion to most building materials (wood, concrete, stone, metal). It has good heat and sound insulation properties. Both formulations are intended for use at an ambient temperature of at least + 5 C.
Hikon polyurethane foam is a polyurethane foam sealant that hardens under the influence of air moisture. The hardened sealant has all the properties inherent in the class of polyurethane foams, primarily high thermal insulation performance. In addition, the hardened sealant provides high noise insulation, is resistant to the action of microorganisms, and scares off mouse-like rodents.
Foam "Hicon" is produced by NPO Polymer sealants (Khimki) under the license of the Belgian company "Altachem" from imported components. Production is carried out on the very modern equipment... The production uses ozone-friendly propellants (propellants).
The "Form" polyurethane foam of the same manufacturer is a polyurethane foam sealant that hardens under the influence of air moisture. The hardened sealant has all the properties inherent in the class of polyurethane foams, primarily high thermal insulation properties. In addition, the hardened sealant provides high noise insulation, is resistant to the action of microorganisms, and scares off mouse-like rodents.
Foam "Form" is made partly from imported, partly Russian components. The production is carried out on the most modern equipment. The production uses ozone-friendly propellants (propellants).
Russian polyurethane foams of the Stroyservice hermetic company are probably well known to consumers. These are popular trademarks Macrofoam, Xtra-Flex, Magnum, Gulliver, Eco Standard in 750 and 400 ml cylinders. It should be recalled that there is a summer, winter and all-season formulation of polyurethane foams. And this allows you to work with foams at any time of the year and in different climates. In the wide assortment of the company, I would like to note the Eco Standard foam. This is a top-class polyurethane foam that matches the best Western counterparts.

We use polyurethane foam in winter

Construction work in winter requires a special approach. And not only to the selection of materials - frost-resistant, reliable, durable, but also to the choice of technologies that are convenient for use, allowing you to work quickly and efficiently even in winter conditions. Some types of work are carried out at temperatures not lower than + 15 C, so they must be completed before the onset of cold weather. This is due to the properties of the materials used - viscosity, adhesion, elasticity, plasticity, thixotropy, speed and uniformity of shrinkage - all these important indicators depend on the ambient temperature.
Many building materials (paints, plasters, adhesives, dry mixes, etc.) are water-based, which significantly limits their application time. But these materials have so-called winter analogues - with a high content of polymers and plasticizers, with additives that increase frost resistance. Therefore, construction life is in full swing at a temperature of -20 C.
Polyurethane foam was no exception. However, remember that using it in winter period is fraught with some difficulties. First of all, the curing time of the foam layer increases. Secondly, its ability to expand decreases.
Leading manufacturers of polyurethane foam produce winter versions of their popular brands with application temperatures up to - 10 C. At lower temperatures, after hardening, the top layer of polyurethane foam becomes brittle. It collapses when pressed, therefore, the foam cannot be cut. The foam hardens over time, however due to the poor quality of the cured polyurethane foam when low temperature the protective layer can crumble and crumble, which significantly affects the quality of the coating and shortens its service life. Therefore, the most suitable for use in winter conditions is the foam with the least brittleness (the top layer should not collapse when pressed with a finger after 1.5 - 5 hours).

What does the market offer?

Makroflex WINTER is a closed cell polyurethane curing foam that cures under the influence of air humidity. Shoveling foam is comfortable and easy to handle and quick to apply. During the formation of the structure, the foam approximately doubles. Makroflex WINTER adheres well to wood, concrete, stone, metal and other materials. Surfaces may be damp, but not icy or frosty. The content of one cylinder gives, depending on the conditions (temperature, air humidity, the possibility of free expansion of the foam, etc.), from 30 to 45 liters of ready-made foam. Makroflex WINTER is used at temperatures down to -10 ° C. At low temperatures, the foam expands less. Cured foam is non-flammable and non-toxic.
Areas of use: installation of doors and windows; sealing joints, holes, slots and joints; sealing of joints of roof structures and insulating materials; installation of soundproof and heat-insulating materials; sealing of pipe passages; assembly of building parts
Surface drying time: 10-18 minutes (at 20 ° C and air humidity over 30%)
Packaging - 750/1000 ml aerosol cans.
"Soudal" winter assembly foam with an ozone-safe foaming agent. It can be used at a temperature of -10C for the installation of window frames and doorways, thermal insulation of pipes, electrical wiring, insulation of various building materials, filling holes and gaps, fixing various building materials to concrete, plaster, etc.
"Soudal" professional winter foam is equipped with a special valve for using an applicator gun. The use of a gun makes work easier and easier, allows you to accurately and accurately apply foam. It is used for the installation of window frames and doorways, thermal insulation of pipes, electrical wiring, insulation of various building materials, filling holes and gaps, fixing various building materials to concrete, plaster, etc.
Winter polyurethane foam Penoflex Classic -10C is designed for use at subzero temperatures and low humidity. Cured Penoflex Classic -10C has good adhesive properties and is a good thermal and sound insulator. Can be painted. Adheres well to most building materials, except for polyethylene and silicone surfaces.
It is used for installing doors and windows, for insulating and securing pipes, for filling holes and gaps, for securing wall panels and tiles, and for thermal insulation.
One-component polyurethane foam Tytan Winter and Tytan Winter Super Plus, designed for sealing and installation of building materials at ambient temperatures from -10 ° C. Shows high adhesion to typical building materials such as: brick, concrete, plaster, wood, glass, metals , styrofoam, rigid PVC and rigid PU foams. It is characterized by high heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties, resistance to aging, mold and mildew. Application with a pistol guarantees the accuracy and speed of dispensing, saving foam output.
Scope of use: filling and sealing joints when installing windows and doors; filling gaps; sealing gaps in the walls; soundproofing and sealing of building partitions, cabins of cars and boats; sealing and thermal insulation of water supply, sewerage and central heating networks; joining and sealing prefabricated timber elements in frame construction; thermal insulation of roofs and combined floors.
Packaging: 300, 500 and 750 ml.

How to work with polyurethane foam

So, we got acquainted with two types of polyurethane foam (regular and winter) and examined some types of products of domestic and foreign production. But before picking up the phone and placing an order for this or that material, it will not be superfluous to learn about the specific features of its application. It is recommended to use polyurethane foam when sealing gaps with a width of 1 to 8 cm. If the gap is wider, in order to save money, builders use cheaper materials, for example, wood, brick, plastic, foam, to make the gap narrower. And then they close it up with polyurethane foam. If the opening is less than a centimeter, the use of polyurethane foam is generally not justified; to seal such a gap, sealants, putties and other materials are used. Before applying the foam to the surface, professionals advise to spray the base with water. It is convenient to moisten the gap with a household spray. Additional moisture will allow the polyurethane foam to harden faster, because the polymerization of the foam is affected not only by temperature, but also by air humidity. The ideal environmental conditions for using polyurethane foam are considered to be a temperature of + 20 ° C and a humidity of 60 - 80%. After primitive surface treatment, you need to prepare the foam itself. As we said, it is sold ready-to-use, but you still have to pay some attention to it. Women who use the foam for styling their hair know that in order to get a decent result, the spray bottle must be shaken well several times. The same operation must be done with the polyurethane foam, with the only difference that the builders will have to shake the cylinder for at least a minute, and preferably two. Only in this case the contents of the container, which includes various chemicals, will mix well and become a homogeneous mass. Next, a special adapter is installed in place of the cap. The foam cylinder is kept upside down during operation. This is done so that the gas displacing the foam from the package mixes better with other components of the composition. If you hold the cylinder in the normal position, the gas, which is lighter than other substances, will rise up all the time, and the foam will have to be shaken all the time. It is recommended to foam the cracks by one third of their depth, because, as we have already said, the polyurethane foam increases in volume two to three times. If vertical cracks are foaming, it is better to start work from the bottom and gradually go up (in this case, the liquid foam will still hold on to the already hardened one). After application, sprinkle the foam with water. After about half an hour, if there is not enough foam, add another layer. If more foam came out than we would like, its excess is carefully cut off with a knife. And at the end of the conversation, one important nuance should be noted. Polyurethane foam is afraid of exposure to ultraviolet rays. Unfortunately, few people pay attention to the warning of the foam manufacturer - it is imperative to protect the hardened foam from atmospheric influences - moisture, ultraviolet radiation - with a sealant, paint, plaster, putty, cement, and protect with platbands. Without proper protection, after a year, the mounting foam turns yellow, begins to crack and crumble, and the surface easily absorbs moisture.

Varieties of sealants

Now let's turn our attention to sealants. First, let's define what it is. From the point of view of a chemist, a sealant is a composition based on polymers, mainly polysulfide or liquid organosilicon rubbers. From the point of view of the consumer, the sealant is an easy-to-use composition for sealing crevices and cracks. The main distinguishing characteristic of sealants is elasticity, that is, the ability to reversibly change its shape under the action of mechanical stress. The elasticity required for these materials is provided by a synthetic rubber base. Synthetic rubbers are initially liquids. With the help of various additives, they are given the consistency of an easy-to-apply paste. Once injected into the area to be sealed, this sticky, easy-to-mold substance should develop into a rubbery, resilient, outsole-like material. The necessary metamorphosis occurs under the action of a vulcanizing agent, which is added to the base composition immediately before use. Such formulations are produced in a rather "complex" package and are intended for professional work. For amateurs, modern industry has mastered the production of ready-to-use products. They do not require any prior manipulation. Everything that is needed to start the vulcanization process, the one-component sealant begins to receive directly from the air, as soon as it leaves its package. The most important characteristics of sealants include: strength, resistance to deformation, high adhesion to almost all building materials, shrinkage when cured (for hardening sealants), elasticity, durability of indoor and outdoor use. In addition, sealants must be elastic to absorb thermal and shrinkage deformations, and prevent moisture from penetrating through the joints. By chemical composition all sealants are divided into several types: silicone, acrylic, bituminous and thiokol. The last two types of sealants have a limited scope, so we will dwell on the first two, the most commonly used types: acrylic and silicone sealants. But more on that in the next issue of our magazine.

Material prepared by Vitaly Lvova

The editors are grateful to the company "Krimelte" for the materials provided

alar 27.03.2008 - 11:44

Hello everyone!
Tell me how to fix the bracket in the grooves of the butt? When fitting, naturally, the grooves turned out to be wider than the thickness of the bracket plates. The question arose - how to fill the gaps between wood and metal with epoxy? Ordinary epoxy will not withstand recoil, Poxipol will not fill thin and long grooves - it does not flow. Somehow Temka slipped about pouring something with epoxy into a nail on a three-ruler. In general, what can you fill the grooves with so that the strength is like Poxipol, and the fluidity is like epoxy? And to buy it was possible more or less everywhere.

Dr. Watson 27.03.2008 - 12:00

I missed the point: the trigger guard? Then where does the return?

In epo, you can add a little solvent, it will be liquid.

vano-sha 03/27/2008 - 12:23 pm

it is better to immediately glue the bolt and trigger hook 😊, the super glue moment prepares the surface well, but why glue the bracket

alar 03/27/2008 - 14:22

You did not understand)))) This is not about the trigger guard. I need on the butt U-shaped bracket... Why do I need this - not the essence of the question)))). Accordingly, under it in the rifle butt I chose grooves, narrow and deep, where it is inserted. You need something epoxy to fill the gaps. Plain store-bought epoxy is fragile. For a long time still I glued her burst butt to the gun - it did not last long, I had to tighten it with bolts. The staple will perceive recoil. In general, it takes a long time to explain and write what happens. I need a material to fill the gaps, fluid, durable after curing. The bad head does not give rest to his hands))))

kad 03/27/2008 - 15:11

alar
You did not understand)))) This is not about the trigger guard. I need a U-shaped brace on the butt. Why do I need this - not the essence of the question)))). Accordingly, under it in the rifle butt I chose grooves, narrow and deep, where it is inserted. You need something epoxy to fill the gaps. Plain store-bought epoxy is fragile. For a long time still I glued her burst butt to the gun - it did not last long, I had to tighten it with bolts. The staple will perceive recoil. In general, it takes a long time to explain and write what happens. I need a material to fill the gaps, fluid, strong after curing. The bad head does not give rest to his hands))))

And you add graphite to the epoxy (crush the lead from the pencil, you can even color it) - significantly increases the elastic properties of the mixture ...

anatoly 27.03.2008 - 15:17

And you add graphite to the epoxy (crush the lead from the pencil, you can even color it)

Metal dust also rules.
With respect

alar 03/27/2008 - 15:56

As for the filler, I already thought, either plastic or metal shavings. But, as I wrote above, I met a topic where epoxy substitutes with good fluidity and strength were called. If there is a normal glue, it is necessary to apply it, so that later you do not have to deal with hemorrhoids by picking out epoxy residues from the grooves and re-fill

ivb1 03/27/2008 - 17:02

try " liquid nails"press from a syringe, for example, Titebond heavy duty - after drying, it looks like plastic and hard rubber, shrinkage is not great, adhesion is excellent, it comes off with wood. You can try glue for auto glass - it does not shrink, dries quickly, adhesion to wood is so-so, after drying - dense rubber.

OVM 27.03.2008 - 17:05

alar 03/27/2008 - 17:21

OVM
I would recommend this - "Loctite 3461 - Liquid version of Steel Putty. This self-leveling composition is recommended for pouring, fixing and leveling parts and assemblies, coating porous surfaces, making molds and reinforcing elements."
Very good with steel filler. And in your design, you can first fill it with an epoxy composition, and then insert a bracket, squeezing out excess resin? This is best to ensure that there are no bubbles or crevices.

We need:

Acrylic putty for wood
Mounting foam
Acrylic sealant
Acrylic primer
Concrete contact

There are many ways to solve this problem that need to be considered in more detail.
First you need to understand what caused the cracks in the floor.
This can be a simple drying of the boards, which occurs when the air humidity is low.
The second reason points to an improperly assembled floor covering.
And the third says that the logs under the floor are deformed or burst.

If you need to know how to seal the cracks in wooden floor, then first you need to identify the defect in the flooring.
Let's say this is the usual drying of the boards.
The following steps should be taken to repair the floor.
First, the boards are checked for strength.
They should not bend and creak.
If necessary, you should pull the boards with logs and for this you will need wood screws.

Then you should fill in all small cracks.
For example, VGT acrylic putty for wood is perfect for performing these actions, and is quite cheap.
In order to cover up the gaps in the floor, you will need a spatula.
Next, you should wait until it is completely dry and clean all the patched places with sandpaper.

Now it is necessary to consider another reason for the formation of cracks, which indicates a defect in the lags under the floor.
To do this, you will have to dismantle the flooring and check the load-bearing beams for strength.
Then, you should check all the lags for strength and replace the unusable ones.
Further, the flooring of the removed boards is performed, which are firmly attracted to the bars.
After installing old boards, large differences in height appear and can reach 10 mm.

How to fix gaps in wood floors

To eliminate defects, you can use a plane or jointer, after which the floor will become much smoother.
Further, filling and cleaning work is performed.
Now it is necessary to consider what constitutes a mixture for filling gaps in the floor.
It is usually prepared for wide openings.
You should take sawdust and PVA glue, then mix it all well.

Further, the cracks are coated with glue and putty with the prepared mixture.
After waiting for a while, you should proceed to sanding the floor.
If the boards laid on the floor have a wide gap at the edges, then they should be blown out with foam, and then cut off the swollen places with a clerical knife and
putty the entire surface with acrylic putty on wood.
Considering the topic of floor repair, it should be concluded that there are quite a few ways to eliminate genital gaps.

For example, you can blow out all the small openings between the boards with foam, and then putty.
Sealing large gaps can be done with a rag, tow or rope.
Naturally, an adhesive composition will also be required, which should create ideal strength.
Now it is necessary to consider in more detail how the filling of cracks in the floors is performed.

Acrylic floor sealant

Acrylic floor sealant, acrylic primer and concrete contact should be purchased initially.
The first step is to treat all the cracks with soil, then go through them with concrete contact, thereby obtaining a rough surface.
Then grease the harnesses or tow with acrylic sealant and hammer into the floor crevices.
Next, you have to wait until it dries, and then cycle the entire floor.

It is possible to protect wood and wood products from excess moisture using structural and chemical measures.

Constructive measures are the creation of conditions for systematic ventilation and a favorable humidity regime: insulation of wood from soil, stone and concrete, arrangement of air vents and channels for ventilation, protection from groundwater and atmospheric precipitation of external structures. In the process of describing the methods and options for the construction of various wooden structures, we drew your attention to the features of the application of such measures in each individual case. IN general view they offer the following operations:

Protection of the upper horizontal and inclined edges of load-bearing wooden structures, used outdoors, with antiseptic boards, ridge and canopies made of galvanized roofing iron or other weather-resistant material;

Isolation wooden surfaces all kinds of roll waterproofing materials and mastics from contact with stone, concrete structures, earth;

Waterproofing with gaskets and compounds of joints of structures operated in conditions where condensation is possible;

Arrangement of ventilation ducts in wall panels and structures of coatings communicating with the outside air, and the use of vapor barrier;

Elimination of moisture accumulation in the external enclosing structures of heated rooms during operation;

Drainage of water from roofs;

Insulation and sealing of joints between enclosing structures;

Laying between the frame and the cladding with a continuous continuous layer of rolled film materials - vapor barrier at the inner (warm), thermal insulation - at the outer (cold) surface;

Availability of wooden structures for preventive repair, renewal of protective wood processing, airing.

The combination of design measures with chemical measures will allow you to significantly increase the protection of timber structures from moisture.

Chemical measures are the treatment of wood with special moisture-protective hydrophobic substances, waterproof varnishes, paints, bioprotective and fire retardants.

Hydrophobic substances have the property of filling the capillary-vascular system of wood with organic compounds. This significantly limits its ability to wet. These substances include vegetable and mineral oils; in addition to their hydrophobic properties, polymers can increase the resistance of wood to fire. However, the technology of such processing is too complex and is carried out mainly in the factory.

It is much easier to resort to coating the surface of wooden products and structures with varnishes and paints, especially since at the moment their choice, both domestic and imported, is quite wide.

Adding aluminum powder to paint or enamel will increase the water-repellent properties and the ability to reflect heat rays, make it more difficult for wood to ignite without weakening the moisture and air exchange of the wood,

Another very simple way chemical protection Wood from moisture consists in coating with linseed oil with the addition of various resins, paints and pigments.

If you need to preserve the natural color and texture of wood, but at the same time protect it from moisture, then use waterproof transparent varnishes and various antiseptic compounds that have the properties of giving the wood a decorative look.

Metal-based stairs take up less space in the house than reinforced concrete or wooden ones. They look more light and elegant, but not too aesthetically pleasing.

Cladding will help improve decorative properties. metal ladder wood with your own hands, because wood is a beautiful and reliable material that fits harmoniously into any interior.

The staircase on a metal frame, sheathed with wood, looks elegant and cozy at home.

When choosing wood, take into account: the degree of drying (moisture content no more than 10%), decorative properties and strength characteristics:

Hardwood processing is more difficult. Violation of technology can lead to the formation of cracks. But products from such rocks serve for a long time without losing their appearance. Elements that are not subject to great physical stress (fencing, risers, sheathing of stringers) can be made from softer conifers.

The table shows the hard, most popular and exotic species from which metal stairs are covered with wood:

Cracks if not dried properly. Ash wood sheathed metal stairs are very decorative and do not need painting.

The base of a ladder made of metal is convenient because it can be made in any shape: metal can be bent, cut and welded. The small-sized, lightweight structure has a high load-bearing capacity, it can withstand the weight of any decor. The wood sheathing of the metal frame of the staircase gives it an aesthetic appearance.

To make a frame with your own hands, use sheet metal or rolled metal: corners, channels, pipes square section... Can be made of stainless steel. The price will be higher, but anti-corrosion treatment is not required.

The choice of material depends on the type of planned staircase:

Zabezhnaya;
Marching;
Swivel;
Arcuate;
Spiral.

Note! The greater the slope of the staircase, the less space it takes up. However, for a comfortable climb, the angle should not exceed 350.

Depending on how to sheathe the metal frame of the stairs with wood, you get a closed or open structure... The sides of the closed base are sewn up with wooden panels and treads, so there are no aesthetic requirements for the appearance of the frame.

The open frame consists of two stringers of metal profileconnected to each other. The steps are fixed on them. The surface of the base is cleaned and covered with enamel. For narrow stairs, one kosour can serve as the basis of the steps. In this case, the risers are not mounted.

Treads should be made of hard, wear-resistant wood in order to prolong the life without degrading the appearance. The material of the risers can be soft tree species.

Before sheathing a staircase on a metal frame with wood, you should consider the way of finishing the steps. It is not recommended to paint the steps oil paint, when water gets in, the step becomes slippery. There are special mastics that make the surface non-slip.

Note! So that the steps are not slippery, pure river sand is added to the paint or varnish.

When calculating the steps, it is necessary to take into account that, according to GOST, the minimum width of the inner staircase is 0.7 m, the outer one is 1.2 m, on one flight - no more than 18 steps.

Fences (railings), in addition to decorative functions, provide convenient and safe movement up the stairs. Before sheathe a metal staircase with wood with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the installation requirements and the minimum dimensions of structures specified in the regulatory documents: SNiP 31-01-2003, GOST 23120-78 and GOST 25772-83.

Fence height - 90 - 100 cm;
The step of the racks is 60 cm;
The space between the uprights is full;
When attaching the handrail to the wall, the distance between them is 10 cm;
Overhang of the handrail above the line of steps - 30 cm, rounded;
Railings - continuous, smooth, 5 cm wide.

Railings are the most decorative element of a staircase. They are executed from various materialscorresponding to the required strength (withstand a load of 100 kg / m) and the design of the room.

Metal staircase sheathed with wood, can have a fence made of:

The fence can be prefabricated from separate parts, or welded. The railing components are:

Support posts - for fastening the fence to the stairs;
Filling the fence (balusters or horizontal elements), closes the space between the support posts;
Handrails - the top of the fence, designed to support the hand when descending and ascending.

A ladder on a metal frame, sheathed with wood, can be equipped with wooden or metal racks. The lower edge of the balusters can be attached directly to the step, bolted or welded to the end of the step. The top of the posts is secured with handrails.

Wooden posts belong to the prefabricated type of fencing. The form wooden balusters depends on the pattern and style of the stairs. The round turned part is a classic. Also, often there are flat products cut from a board on a stencil.

Their outlines can repeat a round baluster, or have an original drawing. For finishing, paints, varnishes or polishes are used.

Metal racks are prefabricated and welded. Prefabricated structures are usually made of aluminum or steel.

The following are used as a protective coating:

Polymeric materials;
Anodized aluminum;
Chrome plated on steel surfaces.

The welded fence is made of steel or iron, cast iron (ferrous metal). The iron and cast iron construction is heavy and durable. Its disadvantage is susceptibility to corrosion. Such surfaces must be painted.

Before sheathing a staircase on a metal frame with wood, you should also think about fences. They can also be metal, but if you use wood for cladding the structure, then it is quite logical that the railings will also be made of wood.

Wooden railing can be created by applying frequent baluster pitch. Another option is to attach decorative wooden sections between the posts.

Metal fencing can be made in any style. The use of steel beams and balusters in the form of shiny tubes is characteristic of modern times. Cast and forged patterns are a tribute to the classics.

Types of metal filling:

Vertical - details of various profiles are located at frequent intervals;
Horizontal - crossbars running at different heights parallel to the handrail;
Solid – decorative panels, forged and cast gratings.

Wood goes well with metal and glass. Glass railing can be solid, or consist of separate panels.

The surface of the handrails must be smooth so that the hand is not injured. Wood sheathed stairs metal frame, more than 130 cm wide, equipped with handrails on both sides - on the fence and on the wall.

The angle of inclination and installation height must be the same for them. The beginning and end of the handrail are rounded.

An experienced craftsman advises how to properly sheathe a metal staircase with wood, and what you need to pay attention to:

Measurements of metal sheathing should be done carefully. A mistake can lead to the formation of gaps or, if the joint is too tight, cracks. Even if the details look the same, you need to measure each.
Steps different shapes better to number.
When machining parts, you need to slightly round off the corners extending to the front side.
When making handrails, first cut off the desired length, then adjust the width.
When fixing the steps, you should check the position with a level.
Screwing in self-tapping screws, it is necessary to deepen the caps by 5 mm. Then they are covered with mastic or closed with a furniture plug.
Balusters are installed along the entire length of the span, the verticality is checked by the level, and then fixed.

To sheathe a staircase with wood on the metal frame, you need to inspect the material in advance, sort it by color. Then you should prepare necessary tools, and provide good illumination of the workplace.

How to sheathe a metal staircase with wood, you can watch the video in this article:

Do-it-yourself wood sheathing of a metal staircase is a painstaking work that requires artistic taste and accuracy in work. This structure is the central element in the interior, and its appearance should correspond to the style of the room.