Bath from a metal frame. Frame bath from foundation to finishing - we build with our own hands. How to choose a foundation

Such projects have many advantages, including the possibility of construction without the involvement of craftsmen, exclusively with my own hands... The article contains a description of the process, as well as photos and videos that will help you understand the construction of a building, from the foundation to the roof.

A frame bath is preferred by people who want to get a quick result at a relatively low price. You can do work at any time of the year, as soon as there is a desire to acquire your own steam room, and the absence of shrinkage, characteristic of a wooden structure, makes it possible not to postpone finishing. You need to start by choosing a project - you can draw it up according to an individual sketch or buy a ready-made one. At this stage, you need to consider:

number of floors;
the presence of additional buildings - attic, terraces, etc .;
the location of the rooms - including the steam room: it can be located separately or be built-in;

Frame bath with veranda

the location of the stove, in order to correctly design the ventilation and chimney;
the configuration of the roof and the type of covering for it - this will allow you to calculate the required power of the rafter system and floors;
communication scheme;
materials that you plan to use for the construction of a bath, including for the final decoration;
construction site - including whether the structure will be a separate building or an extension of the house.

Council. When planning to build a bath, be sure to take into account the peculiarities of the soil on your site. The choice of the type of foundation depends on this. For the walls, prepare boards from aspen, linden or larch - these rocks hardly deform and retain heat well.

To use the frame bath in the cold season, it must be insulated. This question should be puzzled in advance in order to pick up suitable material and include it in the cost of the project. Mineral wool and fiberglass are considered optimal.

One of the most significant drawbacks of the frame structure is its susceptibility to weather conditions. During precipitation, moisture enters the cracks of the building, which collects from the inside and gradually destroys the building, therefore, before building a bath, you should also think about vapor barrier. Usually, a special foil film or glassine is placed between the inner lining and the insulation.

Attention! It is undesirable to use roofing material for this purpose. When heated, it becomes a source of a specific and very unpleasant odor.

Laying the base: foundation, bottom rail and floors

Most often, a columnar foundation is prepared for a frame structure that is lightweight. With your own hands, you can make one of the simple options - a base of asbestos-cement pipes, into which a concrete solution is poured. To complete this work you will need:

Pile foundation for a bath

Drill wells about 1.5 m deep and 0.2 m in diameter.
Insert pipes with a diameter of 0.1 m into them. Empty spaces cover with sand and tamp it well.
Determine horizontality across the entire surface using a level. Make appropriate markings on each pipe.
Prepare a solution from water, sand, fine gravel and cement.
Cut the pipes to the desired mark and pour thoroughly mixed concrete inside each of them.

Council. If you have never made a columnar foundation, but have dealt with a strip foundation, feel free to use the option familiar to you. It will also withstand the frame structure well.

The strength and durability of the bath will be ensured by the correct strapping at the top and bottom. To make the bottom one, you need to lay a layer of boards or timber on the foundation and firmly fix it. This will form the basis for the floor and walls. You need to start installing the piping after the foundation is completely ready. For work, it is necessary to prepare boards with a section of 5x10 cm. They are pre-treated with an antiseptic.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Waterproofing the structure with roofing felt.
Wall marking and layout along the outer contours of the boards (outside). You need to connect them to each other with nails.
Connection by means of plinth trim supports. Laying horizontal control.
Lag insert for subsequent flooring. The distance between them is about 0.5 m.
Treatment of the entire structure with a compound that prevents wood from rotting.

Council. The piping and logs can be attached to the foundation pipes using pre-walled metal plates. This will give additional strength to the future bath. You can put under the lags expanded clay blocksto strengthen the entire structure.

At this stage, it is advisable to start laying the floor. It can be wood or concrete, leaking or not. It all depends on whether you are going to use the bath only in the summer, or all year round... In the first case, you can get by with a simple wooden deck, laid at intervals through which water leaves - this is the flowing structure. If you want to make a solid warm floor, then you must first equip the draft layer: fill the plywood on the logs, put an insulating film and insulation on top. Then you need to lay out the top, final floor covering, and fasten it with nails.

Council. Boards for flooring need to be processed in advance so that the smallest roughness does not cause discomfort for those who have a rest in the bath.

Wall construction rules. Top rail and roofing

Before assembling the base of the bath - the frame - you need to fulfill 2 conditions:

dry the material well;
make markings for future frame racks.

After that, you can proceed with the installation:

Erection of the walls of the bath

Install 2 corner posts and several intermediate posts. The distance between them directly depends on the dimensions of the windows and doors and should be: 40 cm - if you plan to dock with other walls and arrange the opening; 60 cm - if adhesion to other walls is not provided.
Check if the structure is rectangular.
Sheathe the frame with chipboards (from the selected corner). Do the fastening with screws.
Add a few more posts and sew them in the same way.
Make the top harness and attach it to the uprights.

Then you can start installing the roof. Prepare beams 150x150 mm - these will be the ceiling beams. Place them on the upper harness, observing a distance of 0.5x0.6 m. On top, mount a temporary boardwalk with a thickness of 5 cm. On the ground, collect the rafters and install them on the roof. If the height of the roof ridge is small, then installation can be done directly at the top.

Council. Before installing the last roof structure, make a markup of the particle boards on it, which the pediment will be sheathed.

Depending on what material you are going to use as roofing, you need to decide on appearance lathing installed on the rafters:

for iron or soft roof (for example, roofing material) you need to make a solid surface;
for metal tiles, gaps with a distance of 35 cm are permissible;
for slate or ondulin, you can take steps of 60 cm;
when using natural tiles, you must first take into account its size.

Assembling the walls of the bath

After installing the battens, you need to lay the covering, and then install the windows and doors.

Outside, the bathhouse can be plastered, sheathed with boards or siding, inside - to make an imitation of natural wood. It is better to lay out the wall that separates the steam room from the rest room - in order to fire safety... Paint and varnish inner surfaces not worth it: due to the high temperature, they will begin to release toxins. Engage in construction thoroughly - and the bath will serve you for many years.

In the vastness of the Internet, there are endlessly many articles on how to build a frame bath with your own hands. However, often the text you read, at least gave you only a little of the necessary knowledge, and even worse, it turned out to be completely useless for you. In this article, we will try to convey to you only the information you need, which would be correct not only in theory, but also fit in practice. So, where does the construction of a frame bath begin.

What do we know about frame structures

Frame house building has long found its place in the sun in countries western Europe, USA, Australia and Canada. There are neighborhoods where the presence of buildings of this type reaches 95% of the total number of erected buildings. They began to gradually adopt the experience in Russia, where, as statistics show, it turned out to be very successful.

Using technology frame structure, people in our latitudes are erecting not only houses, but also other outbuildings such as: a bathhouse, a garage, a workshop, and so on.

Advantages of a frame bath

It is quite possible to build a turnkey frame bath in one month;
The finished structure is lightweight, so there is no need to build a powerful foundation;
Unlike a log, the walls of a frame-type bathhouse do not shrink, which allows the installation of windows and doors immediately after the walls are erected;
A whole team of professional carpenters is unnecessary for work, one assistant is quite enough;
Estimated cost spent on construction in 2 times lower than a similar structure erected from a log and 3 times lower than a bath from a bar;
Ease of installation of electrical, sewerage and water supply systems. Everything can be hidden between the inner and outer walls without any problems;
Infinite set different types finishes, both inside and outside.

Disadvantages of a frame bath, owner reviews

Very often on various construction forums you can find reviews of users of such baths. In addition to positive reviews, people also sometimes leave negative statements. However, more often than not, these are only mistakes that were initially made in the design and construction of a bath, and not the weaknesses of the structure.

For example, people complain that the bathhouse began to darken and after 2 years after commissioning, a fungus appeared on the walls. Such moments take place, however, this is only a consequence of poor insulation of the structure, no more.

The fact is that with a sharp cooling, condensation forms on the walls, and this is the main reason for the appearance of the fungus. To avoid this, it is enough to use high-quality insulation.

There are also comments about shrinkage. Users write that after some time there was a slight shrinkage of the structure on 3-5 cm... This can happen, but only if raw wood was used during construction, which, according to technology, should not be.

Only dry and antiseptic treated wood should be used for construction

Frame bath projects

There are two most popular sizes that are most often used in the construction of frame-type baths - 4x4 m... and 6x6 m... The sizes depend primarily on the need. For a family of 3-4 people, a smaller sauna will be enough.

In the event that you have a large family, as well as you are a big fan of taking a steam bath, inviting a couple of friends to visit you, then it is better not to save money and build a bigger bathhouse, especially since the difference in cost is not so significant.

Despite the fact that the construction of a frame bath is not a construction site of the century and it is quite possible to build it without a detailed project, it is still desirable to have schematic dimensions and an approximate layout of the premises inside. Here are two examples finished projects which you can use.

Frame sauna 4x4

Most often, there is a bath of the given dimensions of all and three rooms: a steam room, a sink and a rest room. Despite the small area of \u200b\u200beach room, there is enough space inside for a comfortable stay in the bath for 3-4 people at a time.

Sauna 4x4 project

If necessary, you can increase the floor area at the expense of an open terrace. For this, another pair is added to the roof rafter legs, which rest on two beams of the upper harness, reinforced with vertical posts.

To avoid getting cold into the rest room, a partition can be installed in it. Thus, you get another room - a veranda. It is usually used to store outerwear and shoes.

Frame bath 6x6

If the size of the site allows you and the availability of extra funds to build a frame bath with dimensions 6x6 m., then do not hesitate, build unambiguously. There is no doubt that there is enough space in such a bath for everyone, all the more often baths of this size imply the presence attic floor, which has a bedroom.

Baths of this size have a number of advantages. Firstly, it is possible to place a full-fledged corridor and a bathroom on the ground floor. Well, the attic can be turned into a living room, combined with a recreation room, where you can perfectly place, for example, a billiard table.

DIY frame bath

If you have at least a little experience in construction using frame technology, you can independently make your own changes to a typical project. Design feature this type of buildings allows you to do this at any stage of construction.

Foundation

The construction of the foundation begins with the choice of a place for the structure and preparation of the site. The schematic marking of the foundation is made using rope and pegs.

Since the structure is lightweight, you can save money on the construction of a full-fledged foundation. A well-proven foundation will be enough.

From a bar 150x150 mm... the lower strapping is made, on which the support pillars and frame racks will rest. To connect the corners, the method is used "In the paw", with a secure fixation with nails.

Frame

The bath frame is made of dry, specially treated edged board. The size of the board must be selected based on the calculations of the bearing capacity of your bath and the insulation that you plan to use. Usually a timber is used under the corner posts. 100x100 mm., and for racks a board 40x80 mm... Pillars and posts are reinforced with corner braces, so the structure becomes rigid.

It is recommended to do the step of installing the racks 600 mm... It is this width that most standard heaters have, so it does not have to be adjusted to a different size, and its tight fit will exclude the possibility of the formation of cold bridges. This step will subsequently be applied to floor logs and rafter legs.

The places where the window and door openings will be located are additionally reinforced with a board of the same section as the rack itself. Simultaneously with the installation of supports and racks, the floor logs are being installed. For these purposes, an edged board is used. 100x50 mm., fastening takes place on special metal shoes. The fastening step is still the same 600 mm... By analogy with the bottom, the upper harness is made using the same method of fastening "in the paw".

Roof

For frame baths due to their small size it would be advisable to use either a four-slope. The roof frame is carried out using an edged board with a section 150x50 mm., the step of installing the rafter legs 600 mm.

For added convenience, roof trusses can be assembled on the ground. To do this, you need to make a template, which is done as follows.

The ends of the two boards are connected at the edges with an ordinary nail. The second ends are installed in the marked place of the upper harness, where the place of the undercut for the supporting part is marked on them with a pencil. The structure in this position is fastened with a temporary transverse board.

Having lowered the layout down, mark the place of the upper connection with a pencil with a straight vertical line, so we get required angle... Having removed the nail, we cut it down according to the markings outlined above and below, then we splic the ridge part with metal plates on both sides. We replace the temporary jumper with a permanent one (crossbar). Check the resulting template again, if everything has become exactly according to it, we make the rest of the trusses.

Fastening the rafters with metal plates

Important! The attachment points of the rafter legs must coincide with the vertical posts. This will significantly reduce the stress on the structure.

The lower part of the rafter legs is attached with a metal corner and nails. Both roof slopes must be flat. After installing all the rafters, we proceed to the installation of the roofing pie under the roof of your choice.

Wall cladding

External wall cladding is usually done wooden clapboard... You can paint it in any color you like, but true connoisseurs leave the natural color of the wood, emphasizing its structure with only a layer of transparent varnish. Do not forget to cover the frame with a waterproofing film before nailing the sheathing.

Modern market building materials allows you to choose another option for wall cladding. For example, it is not uncommon to find frame baths sheathed with siding or block house.

Insulation of a frame bath

The comfort and service life of your bath in the future will depend on how seriously you take this stage of construction.

It is impossible to save on materials for thermal insulation of a frame bath. The best material mineral wool still remains for insulation. It is an environmentally friendly product that does not lend itself to mold or combustion. In addition, this material "breathes", which is its main advantage over other types of insulation.

The material on both sides should fit snugly against the sides of the side posts. The whole work is quite simple, so no special recommendations are needed here. After all the walls are insulated, they are closed from above with a vapor barrier made of aluminum foil.

For interior cladding, pine or linden lining is well suited. In the steam room, it is better to use cedar lining, the unique aroma of the essential oils contained in it, which have healing properties make it irreplaceable for a given room.

Interior decoration of the bath with pine clapboard

As you yourself were able to see the construction of a bathhouse using frame technology, it is a simple matter, or rather, very simple. It is very difficult to make serious mistakes during its construction, so even a novice carpenter can cope with this work.

Before starting construction, make sure that you have at least the simplest project on hand with minimal sets of drawing dimensions.

What could be more pleasant than after the work performed at the summer cottage to take a steam bath in your own bathhouse, wash off the dirt and relax your body and soul? Of course, a chic bathhouse with a pool in the country is a luxury that is unaffordable for many, so you should take a closer look at the projects of small structures and build what you like with your own hands, investing a minimum of funds and getting the maximum benefit and pleasure.

A small bath can be built using frame technology, laid out from foam / gas / cinder blocks, bricks, or folded out of a log or bar. The most environmentally friendly material is wood, but bricks and blocks are more durable, reliable and fireproof.

Table. Comparative table of prices for materials for the construction of bath walls

Brand / model / type / grade	Size / section, mm	Price in rubles
M150	25012065	RUB 16.90 per piece (on a pallet 240 pieces)
First grade	1001006000	Price for 1 m3 from 5500 to 6700 rubles.
First grade	1501506000	RUB 5500-6900 for 1 cubic meter.
First grade	401006000	RUB 7500 for 1 m3
2,3 grade	401506000	5500 RUB for 1 m3
-	912502500	548
-	1212502500	802
-	6025050	RUB 40 per piece (133 pieces in one cubic meter)

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Economy baths project

Having looked at the prices for materials, you will notice that it is more profitable to build a bath from blocks or using Canadian technology. Moreover, the latter will be more profitable if some of the materials are used second-hand or low-grade (for example, instead of edged boards, you can use unedged boards, adding color country bath). More accurate data on the consumption of materials can be obtained after drawing up a project and an estimate.

It is extremely important, before starting construction, to think over the project of the bath, calculate the amount of materials, mark all dimensions and at the same time plan not only the location of the premises, but also the furnishings in them.

Device shelf in the steam room Bath size selection

The main room in any, even the smallest, bath is the steam room. There are necessarily two or three storey shelves and a heater. Even country cottage area small, and the bathhouse is planned to be installed very modest square meters based on the simultaneous stay of two people (visitors should be comfortable to steam with brooms, sit and lie on the shelves in full growth). Such norms are due to safety reasons (in a very cramped steam room, it is easy to burn yourself on a hot stove or scald your skin with hot steam).

Also, if the entire stove is completely in the steam room and fuel is loaded from the same room, it is worth increasing the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe room by another 1-2 meters, so that it is convenient to store and throw firewood into the firebox. Immediately in front of the furnace, a pre-furnace sheet with dimensions of 1x1 m must be laid, which is also noted on the plan of the future bath.

The bath will certainly provide for water procedures, respectively, you should think about a small shower located in separate room or adjacent to the steam room. The second option, when the steam room and the washing room are combined, allows you to save space and reduce the cost of installing sewage outlets, interior partitions.

The last important bath room is a dressing room or dressing room. Benches and hangers for visitors, a cabinet for bath accessories, perhaps a small table should fit here. It is also possible and preferable to have the heater located in the steam room and the loading door to the dressing room, which saves on heating costs.

In the economy bath, you can do without:

plumbing system. But you will have to equip a stove with a tank and manually bring water in buckets;
separate bathroom. These amenities can be taken outside or in country house, if the bathhouse in the country will be used only in the warm season.

But you can't do without electricity and sewerage, so it is advisable to order or build a septic tank / cesspool / drainage pit, as well as extend the power line to the construction site of the bath, because it is very inconvenient to steam by candlelight.

Be sure to indicate on the plan diagram:

dimensions of the building and each room separately;
the height of the ceilings and the total height of the bath;
the location of the oven;
the sides into which the doors will open, including the furnace;
the location of the windows (in the steam room, the window is located at a height of 185 to 195 cm from the floor and not above the shelf);
location of the socket and switch, shield and lamps (only products with a moisture protection level above IP54 are used).

Below are several projects of small one-story country baths.

Video - Bath design

Video - Bath project. Drafting

Construction of a small frame economy bath in the country

Let's start with the base of the bath - the foundation. Since the bath will be small and relatively light, there is no need to fill monolithic slab or make a recessed reinforced tape. For a one-story bath, a columnar foundation made of blocks or asbestos pipes with concrete poured into them is sufficient.

Stage 1. Markup

This stage is required for any type of construction. We choose a place on the site where the bathhouse will be located.

We take 4 pegs and a plumb line. We drive the first stake strictly vertically into the soil, that is, mark the first corner of the house. From this point we postpone the length of one of the walls, score the second stake. We tie both pegs with a cord.

Similarly, put the third stake and the fourth. We check the equality of the diagonals of the marking, if necessary, correct the stakes and the cord.

We also mark with a cord the places where the interior partitions will be located.

We arm ourselves with a shovel and remove the top layer of soil along with the grass inside the castoff. We align the bottom of the resulting base horizontally, tamp it.

Video - Conducting a foundation marking

Stage 2. Foundation

Consider the option of arranging a columnar foundation of concrete blocks measuring 20 * 20 * 40 cm.Their price ranges from 45 to 60 rubles per piece. You can use ordinary bricks (13-16 rubles apiece), including used ones.

We take a drill or a shovel and start digging holes measuring 50x50 cm for blocks or 35x35 cm for bricks. The distance between the holes is no more than 2 m, the depth of each is about half a meter. The holes should be located in the corners of the house, under the load-bearing walls and interior partitions.

We ram the bottom of each hole, sprinkle it with a layer of sand, rubble (each layer up to 10 cm) and repeat the compaction process again.

Pour the crushed stone with liquid cement milk. We stick one steel bar strictly vertically into the center of each hole.

We lay out bricks or blocks around the bar, 2 pcs. in each row.

The posts should rise 20-30 cm above the soil. Check the horizontalness of the entire base by pulling the rope and using a bubble level. If necessary, compensate for unevenness with a layer cement mortar.

We cover each column with a piece of roofing material.

Stage 3. Frame of economy bath

For the frame, you can use a beam of 100 * 100 cm or 150 * 150 cm.You should not save on load-bearing elements. It is also desirable to impregnate wood with a fire retardant composition.

The lower harness consists of 4 beams.

Connection of corners by the method "in a paw" or "in a half-tree".

Joining the beams of the lower strapping

On the reinforcing bars sticking out of the corner posts, we cut the threads (the pins on the intermediate posts can be cut off). At the ends of the bars we drill holes for these pins. We cut out the ends of the beams according to the diagram below.

We collect the lower harness by putting the bars on the pins. Tighten the nuts and locknuts from above.

Between the vertical beams we nail or fasten horizontal lintels from a 50x50 mm bar with self-tapping screws. We strengthen the corner posts with jibs from a board of 50x100 mm.

It remains to make the top harness. To do this, we use a board 50 mm thick, which we fasten to the ends of the vertical beams with long wood screws.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden beams

Stage 4. Gender

Consider an example of arranging a non-leaking floor in a bath. In order not to waste time on cutting lumber, we take fixing perforated corners, self-tapping screws and assemble floor logs. We put boards 50x100 cm between the beams of the lower harness on the edge, we maintain a distance between the logs of 40-45 cm.

Assembling the floor slab from the plank in the “on edge” position for greater rigidity

Floor lags can be covered with OSB-3 sheets (approximately 480-550 rubles per sheet 1250x2500 mm and 9 mm thick) or use the same wooden boardsfrom which the lags are made. IN rough floor a hole must be provided for installing a drain from a washing or steam room.

Be sure to stretch Izospan or another vapor barrier under the wooden sub-floor.

To insulate the floor, on top of the subfloor we again fasten the logs, between which we lay expanded clay, sawdust or red moss, cover the entire "pie" with a waterproofing film and assemble the finished floor from boards or moisture-resistant plywood (from 260 rubles per sheet of 4 grades measuring 1525x1525 mm and 4 mm thick). The use of polystyrene as insulation, including packaging, is possible only in the dressing room.

Prices for Izospan

Stage 5. Roof

Before making the roof, we assemble the upper floor (ceiling). We use the same fasteners and boards that were used when installing the floor log.

It is better to make a gable roof for a frame economy bath. It will make the bathhouse outwardly more attractive, and the space under the roof can easily be converted into sleeping place or a warehouse for brooms. On the other hand, less materials will be needed for a shed structure.

Templates for cutting rafters, racks, floor logs

Table. Types of roofs, schemes

Roof type, illustration	Advantages	Description
Flat or single slope	Saving materials, ease of assembly, the ability to operate the roof.	For saunas up to 6 meters wide, it is permissible to organize flat roofs with a slope of 10-25 degrees and inclined rafters. The overlap is organized from coniferous bars from 100x100 to 150x200 mm. The laying step is from 40 cm to 1 m. On top of the beams, a continuous lathing without gaps is assembled from an edged board or OSB, then a lathing for insulation - expanded clay with a layer of 10 cm, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene is mounted. Several layers of roofing material or other moisture-proof material are laid on top of the insulation. The roof itself can be organized from a profiled sheet, boards treated with an antiseptic, etc.
Gable. Suitable for baths with an area\u003e 12 m2	Possibility of using the attic for household purposes or for an overnight stay. The roof is stable and durable	The angle of inclination of the roof is selected from 30 to 45 degrees, depending on the type of terrain. To install such a roof, the upper harness and the Mauerlat must be made of timber. Roof trusses are isosceles triangles with a jumper between the ribs (crossbar). The rafters rest on the Mauerlat and can hang for a maximum of half a meter. Rafters are cut according to a template, assembled into trusses using metal fasteners and long screws. The first to fasten the outer trusses on the pediments, then with an interval of up to one and a half meters - the remaining rafters. On top of the rafters, a crate is stuffed from a rail or board, a vapor barrier is pulled, and then fixed roofing material, for example, a professional sheet.

Video - Roof construction

Stage 6. Interior and exterior finishing

Table. Short description stages of insulation, insulation and finishing of economy baths

Work order	Scheme	Description
		Styrofoam will provide the walls of the bath with additional rigidity and retain heat. For installation, we use polyurethane foam and PSB-S-15. We cut out pieces of foam according to the distance between the frame posts, insert the foam between them, foam the cracks. It is recommended to cut out the foam 0.5-1 cm larger than the existing openings in order to avoid cracks.
		We use 2x5 cm slats. We fix them horizontally. We fix it with self-tapping screws for wood. The distance between the slats is taken equal to the width of the insulation.
		We put plates between the battens mineral wool... We pull a polypropylene cord over the mats, fix it with small nails or a stapler.
		From the outside, the bath can be upholstered with OSB-3 sheets, which can be plaster or painted later. An unedged board or siding finish is also an acceptable option.
		On the outside of the bath, under a layer of finishing material, we fasten a windproof film with an overlap (glassine can be used). From the inside, on the walls and ceiling, we stretch a foil vapor barrier with a thickness of 80 microns. We fix the overlaps of the strips with metallized tape.
Inner lining		The traditional material for interior decoration is lining. Economy option - aspen. It is better not to use pine lining in the steam room. In the dressing room, it is permissible to sheathe the walls pVC panels or moisture-resistant plasterboard, then paint.
External cladding		Many interesting materials are used as external cladding, for example, shingles or shingles. These are thin wooden planks that are fastened with nails to the walls, and the rows are fixed with a slight overlap (upper to lower). An environmentally friendly and economical solution.

Step 7. Ventilation

An economy bath is probably a compact room, but this does not exclude the need for ventilation.

The opening for the air flow is traditionally arranged near the heater, closer to the floor, and the installation of the ventilation valve is carried out simultaneously with the insulation and decoration of the walls. Supply air flow ventilation duct must fall on the heating element of the oven. It is especially important to equip effective ventilation, if the door of the firebox does not go into the dressing room, but into the steam room.

The exhaust vent should be closer to the ceiling. The hood must be equipped with a damper. Air outlet is organized by ventilation pipe on the roof, the head of the pipe is closed with an insect net.

Natural ventilation can be organized through a small window located at a height of 185 cm above floor level. Ventilation will take place with an open window and room doors.

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Bath fans prices

bath fan

Stage 8. Equipping the bath

Having assembled a bath with your own hands, make a metal stove with a heat exchanger and a remote water tank. The main thing is to lay asbestos cardboard on the floor and wall behind the stove during installation, cover it with a steel sheet to prevent spontaneous combustion of wooden surfaces.

It is not necessary to calculate the load on the floor and rafters for a single metal stove, the floor structure of a 150x50 mm lag with a step of 45-50 cm and a 5 cm thick floorboard will perfectly withstand the heater.

The electrical wiring in the bath is laid either before finishing walls (hidden type), or after (external). Lamps and sockets are purchased and installed strictly waterproof, class above IP 54. It is imperative to install a separate electrical panel and protect all cables from moisture.

Asbestos cardboard prices

asbestos cardboard

Other interesting projects of economy baths

Very unusual, but no less comfortable barrel bath is a cylindrical wooden structure on two supports, inside it is divided into 2-3 compartments, the farthest of which is a steam room. The bathhouse is mobile, takes up little space, is economical and economical (it takes very little fuel to warm up a small steam room).

Turnkey barrel saunas cost from 35 to 220 thousand rubles. In practice, to assemble such a bath on your own, it takes half the money and not a lot of effort and time.

Assembly-disassembly of the bath is possible due to the used boards 45x90 or 50x90 mm with a thorn-groove connection. The length of the barrel, depending on the boards used, is 2.5-5 meters. The fixation of the structure is carried out with metal hoops-ties. Additionally, the bath can be equipped with a porch, roof, visor.

The water in the barrel bath is drained through the holes in the floor. If you plan to install such a bath in the country, it is worth removing the soil layer, filling it with rubble, tamping it, and installing the bath itself on a pair of stable massive concrete blocks. The rules for installing the furnace, wiring are standard for any type wooden baths, including economy class.

Every owner of a suburban area knows about the benefits and pleasure that bath procedures bring. That is why many seek to ensure that they have this structure for their own use. But not everyone has the opportunity, time and finances to build this structure from bricks or rounded logs. The solution is to build a frame bath with your own hands. If you competently approach the issues of insulation and waterproofing, then it will serve for a very long time.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of a frame bath

Drawing up a construction project and selection of materials

Any construction begins with planning and purchasing materials. To start shopping, you need to develop a plan.

To draw up a drawing you need:

decide on a place;
study the soil in this place, since it affects the choice of the foundation;
determine for yourself which design will be optimal for you.

Include standard bath rooms in your project: dressing room, vestibule, shower and steam room.The location of the stove should also be indicated on the schematic diagram of the bath.

When preparing project documentation, do not miss a single detail. Indicate absolutely everything - from the type of ventilation and features of the chimney to the materials used for interior, exterior and roof finishing.

At the design stage, determine the dimensions of each of the rooms, indicate them on the diagram. Take into account how many people will be in the steam room at the same time. It should not be too crowded, but it will be difficult to warm up too large a bath.

The optimal steam room is considered with dimensions of 2400x2000 mm with a ceiling height of 2200 mm.

Often, steam lovers create projects with additional premises: a recreation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, etc. A bathroom in the bath will bring additional conveniences while taking bath procedures.

Video: how to draw up a drawing of a frame bath for a summer residence

DIY foundation construction technology

Any type of foundation can be used for a frame bath.

Pile

Very easy to erect, reliable. Used for small and lightweight structures. It gained its popularity due to its low cost and quick assembly. When choosing foundations, important parameters are the depth of soil freezing and the occurrence of groundwater. Piles should be placed deeper than this level. In addition, for greater reliability, reduce the distance between the support points as much as possible. Prepare to dig deep.

There are certain subtleties of use pile foundation:

This type of foundation is best suited for unstable soil (sand, peat bog). In this case, the supports are buried in the soil to the depth where there is a solid stable support. In this way, the weight of the structure will fall on good soil.
Where the soil freezes below 1500 cm, piles are an excellent base option.
If the ground surface is uneven and very bumpy, then a structure on a columnar base will also be the only way out. In this case, you do not have to perform a large amount of work to level the site.
Another type of soil that is ideal for using a pile foundation is dense. In order to dig a trench or foundation pit in it, you will have to make a lot of effort. And pile wells are much easier to drill.

Table: types of piles

Photo gallery: types of piles

Bored piles are most often used in the construction of a bath Screw metal piles can be mounted by yourself
Driven reinforced concrete piles are not suitable for a bath

Pile location and dimensions

Key pile locations are the corners of the building, the places where outer wall connects to the wall and, of course, it is necessary to install intermediate posts along the length of the walls. The distance between the supports must be at least 2 m so that the bearing capacity of the base is not disturbed.

You should not make pillars with a diameter of less than 20 cm. The larger this parameter, the better the bearing capacity of the foundation will be.

To understand how long the pillars are needed, you need to know:

how deep the soil freezes;
at what depth does reliable non-floating ground begin.

The level of freezing for a certain region is practically unchanged. But to understand the condition of the soil, trial drilling will come to the rescue, which will show everything.

Step-by-step instructions for erecting brick piles

Rubble stone or bricks are also often used to create a foundation. They are fixed with each other concrete mortar... It is worth placing such pillars using the same technology as piles. This also applies to the distances between them. Corner posts are made square (380x380 mm), and intermediate ones are rectangular (380x250 mm). They should rise 300-400 mm above the soil and go 250-300 mm deep.

All work on the construction of the foundation takes place in several stages:

This is the most common base option. And not only for the construction of a bath. It gained its popularity due to the ease of construction. Ideal for non-flowing, stationary soils with deep groundwater.

To build a bath, it does not need to be buried too deep, especially if the soil does not freeze too much.

If the sauna stove requires a separate foundation, then it is better to start building it together with the foundation for the entire building.

Follow the steps in the following sequence:

Pour the concrete mixture from a height of 500 mm or less. This will prevent the concrete from flaking.

Formation of the floor structure and its thermal insulation

The service life of the bath can be increased if detailed instructions for floor installation. This will avoid heat leaks and decay of floorboards, as well as avoid other unpleasant consequences.

To install the bath, follow the instructions below:

The shower floor is done a little differently:

Create a separate foundation for your washroom. This is a guarantee that the floor will always be warm and dry quickly.
Remove the soil layer (0.5 m), make a sand-crushed stone pillow 10 cm thick in this pit.
Make the floor joists from asbestos-cement pipes, the diameter of which is 100 mm. They can be laid on the foundation and filled with concrete, which will keep them from displacement.
Lay an edged round board 40-50 mm thick on the pipes. Leave approximately 6–7 mm gaps between the rubber pads. They are attached to the boards with nails.
Press down the floor with baseboards.

Video: how to drain the sauna floor

How to calculate and build walls

Now that the base is frozen, the floor is done, you can begin to erect the skeleton of the walls of the bath. To start this work, the wood must be well dried. It is not recommended to take birch for these purposes, as it is subject to rapid decay.

Before proceeding directly to the construction of walls, it is recommended to carry out a preliminary calculation of the material. At the same time, remember that it must be purchased with a margin. The construction of walls takes place in the following order:

Start at the bottom rail. For its installation, purchase strong beams, the section of which is 100x100 mm. Join them at the corners in a quarter, fasten them well with nails. To prevent the lower strapping and attached corner posts from leading, place them on steel pins 20 mm thick, which need to be embedded in concrete.
The beam of the same section is used to create the upper strapping.
For more rigidity of the frame, install eight braces in the corners of the bath.
Along the perimeter of the walls, place intermediate posts from the same timber with which the strapping was made.

In order not to work at height, experts recommend constructing and fastening the frame of the walls on the ground, and then simply lifting them, inserting them into place and securing them. It is much more convenient and faster.

How to mount the truss system

For the construction of the roof frame, it is necessary to prepare boards with a section of 150x50 mm. They are placed on the edge and fastened to each other. The distance between the rafters should be 100–120 mm. In a vertical position, fix them with “kerchiefs”, connect them with a ridge from above.

About 400 mm of joists must be left outside.

For roof lathing, boards of 250 mm are suitable. Fix them in the direction from the ridge down.

The rafters are attached with special metal plates.

For ease of installation, assemble the entire "skeleton" of the roof on the ground, and then hoist it into place, as is the case with the walls.

Correct and practical insulation: detailed instructions

The frame structure is very light, therefore, the insulation should also be appropriate to avoid deformation of the walls.

When choosing a heater for a bath, you must adhere to several rules:

the material must have good thermal insulation properties;
its properties should not disappear when exposed to high temperature and humidity;
there should be no release of toxic substances;
it must be fireproof.

Table: which insulation to choose

Name	Description
	Despite the fact that mineral wool is not heavy, it is still not recommended to use it, because when combined with facing materials it can get hard enough. Mineral wool is formed by interlacing of thin fibers, which are obtained by melting rocks or from metallurgical waste. When these fibers are intertwined, then there are empty air spaces between them. It is thanks to this that mineral wool has good thermal insulation properties. The material has a high melting point inorganic substances, so it can be used in a bath. High humidity also does not harm mineral wool.
	Natural material. Differs in its environmental friendliness. It has high thermal insulation properties. The thickness of the slabs is 150 mm. it convenient size for insulating frame structures, including baths.
Sawdust-gypsum composition	This type of insulation is made by mixing 10 parts of sawdust, which are thoroughly dried beforehand, and 1 part of gypsum or cement mortar. Good value for money. You can do it yourself.
	It is cheap and lightweight materials, it is easy to install and adjust to the desired size, has excellent thermal insulation properties, and is impervious to moisture. However, the material does not tolerate high temperatures well, so it is better for them to insulate places far from the furnace.

Photo gallery: types of thermal insulation material

Expanded polystyrene cannot be used near the oven Sawdust-gypsum mixture can be made by yourself Reed slabs are natural insulation Mineral wool slabs do not change their properties under the influence of high temperature and humidity

Stages of warming a bath

It is worth insulating the walls of the bath even at the stage of building the walls. Thermal insulation material is laid in the gaps between the load-bearing parts of the building frame. Waterproofing is laid on top of it. Thus, a "pie" is obtained, in the center of which there is a heater, outside - waterproofing, on both sides - facing.

Experts advise to lay the insulation in two layers, one of which is in the form of slabs, and the second in a roll. Thus, all unnecessary cracks are removed, and the bath will be really well insulated. Pay attention to the fact that these materials have an inner and outer side.

Warming options near the stove

This is where the temperature reaches its highest point. Therefore, the walls here should be additionally protected from fire. Some people use asbestos boards for this. Others believe that this material is not very useful for the human body and recommend using basalt or isolon. But all types of materials perfectly cope with the effects of high temperatures, protect the walls of the bath from unpleasant consequences.

Floor and ceiling insulation

This work can be done in several steps:

Compact the soil thoroughly. Pour the concrete screed base over it.
Lay the layer waterproofing material (roofing material or dense polyethylene).
Install thermal insulation.
Cover with a layer of waterproofing again.
Pour the top layer of concrete screed.

This will create a subfloor. It can be additionally worked with waterproofing solutions, after complete solidification. This will additionally protect the floor from moisture penetration through microcracks in the concrete and extend the service life.

The ceiling is insulated using the same technology as the walls:

Waterproofing

In addition to the fact that the walls need to be insulated, they also need to be protected from moisture. There are two reasons for this:

Any insulation, to varying degrees, begins to lose its insulating qualities from exposure to moisture. And for a bath, this is not very good.
Thermal insulation materials dry for a long time after moisture gets on them. This can lead to mold and rot, which can transfer to the frame.

As a vapor barrier material, you can use:

aluminum foil (it not only protects against moisture, but also reflects heat);
glassine, which is environmentally friendly, is inexpensive;
polyethylene.

Roofing material can be used as waterproofing. But it is not recommended for decorating a bath, because under the influence of high temperatures it begins to smell unpleasant.

The vapor barrier material must be laid with an overlap, and the joints must be glued with metallized tape.

Video: what mistakes can be made when laying steam waterproofing

External and internal finishing of a summer or winter bath

The frame should not only serve you for a long time, but also be beautiful in appearance.

Interior cladding should not only be beautiful, but also withstand high temperature and humidity. Coniferous lining will perfectly cope with this task. Just do not use it in a steam room, as it can release tar. Here larch lining is more suitable.

Linden is a great option for finishing the ceiling and making shelves and sun loungers.

Video: how much and what to spend money on when building a bath

Building a bath in a frame way is one of the cheapest options. And modern decoration Materials, for example, an imitation of a bar or a block house will give the structure a look almost indistinguishable from a real wooden bath. Material consumption for installation is 2-3 times less. Our experts will tell you how to build a frame bath with your own hands in stages.

Wireframe small bath economical and will easily fit into any area.

A frame bath has advantages: low price, quick assembly, lightweight foundation and disadvantages: moisture can easily get into the frame, the structure must be carefully insulated and external and interior decoration... But the problems can be solved if we treat construction with responsibility.

Where it is better to put a frame bath on the site will be told by landscape designer Vera Nikolaevna, Moscow

Vera Nikolaevna is a specialist in the planning of wooden baths.

Vera Nikolaevna has a higher education in architecture and a second landscape designer. The main specialization is planning a bath made of wood, linking the project to the site. He has been working in this field for over 10 years.

What are the main factors to consider before building a bath?

Before building a frame bath, you need to plan and select a project. It is possible to carry out construction without it, but it would be wrong. The choice of a project depends on several factors:

What will the bathhouse be like: detached or attached to the main house.
Plan a site on the site. Moreover, it is important to think over how to bring water, electricity, etc. to the bath. The location of communications affects the choice of location in the first place.
Find out what kind of geodesy on the site, the construction of the foundation of the frame bath depends on this in the future.
It will be determined how many floors the building will have, the size and internal layout.
Where the stove will be installed in the bath depends on how the ventilation system and chimney will be designed.
It is necessary to choose a roof, this will affect the rafter system and the structure of the roof.

Typical project of a frame bath 5400x6300 m

Only after that a bath project is developed. As it is drawn up, you can correct and supplement the design with various details. The more detailed the project is, the easier it will be to build a frame bath on your site.

In order to save money, it is convenient to purchase a typical project, of which there are many in construction companies. It is safer to choose one for which there are many ready-made photos.

When choosing a suitable bathhouse, do not forget about the design of neighboring buildings: houses, gazebos. Everything should be in one harmonious ensemble.

After choosing a project, you can start installing the foundation.

How best to carry out the installation of frame construction, will tell the foreman of the company "Build Together", St. Petersburg Viktor Leonidovich

The foreman of a large construction company talks about the intricacies of building a frame bath.

Victor Leonidovich has built more than 400 projects of a frame bath on household plots and in private estates. His baths have been serving their owners for over 15 years.

How to properly assemble the foundation for a bath with your own hands?

A complex foundation for a frame bath is not worth building and it is not necessary to maintain it for a year before assembling the box. The easiest way is to collect a tape that is not buried in clay or heaving geodesy. Perform work as follows:

According to the project, the perimeter of the foundation is marked, pegs are simply stuck in the corners.
A trench is being dug 60 cm deep and 40 cm wide, this is enough for frame construction.
Sand is poured into the trench 10-15 cm and poured with water on the ram. The next layer is filled with gravel or broken red brick and again a layer of sand to the ground level.
The formwork is mounted on the trench. It is easier to do it yourself from 40x40 mm boards and bars. The formwork must be at least 50 cm high and 35 cm wide.
The frame is assembled from the reinforcement into the formwork. As a savings, you can use various iron elements, for example, old pipes from the heating system.
The structure is poured with concrete. Filling can be done at once or in stages, but the bottom layer should not have time to grab.
From above, the foundation is waterproofed with 2-3 layers of roofing material or liquid rubber in 2-3 mm. The sides are coated with bitumen mastic.

Before starting the assembly of the box, you must make sure that the foundation is ripe and dry. Proper drying is carried out gradually, covering the structure with old plastic bags or foil for 2-3 days. Then they open it and let it stand for another 1-2 days.

What features does the sauna box assembly have?

The box of the frame bath is finished with a block house.

The bath frame must be assembled from a bar with a section of 100x100 mm and edged boards with a width of 450 mm. Before installation, the lumber must be dried or take a ready-made chamber drying. The second option is more expensive. The wood can be any: larch, pine, spruce, aspen. In any case, the inside of the bath will be finished and there will be no resin drips.

All material is treated with antiseptics before assembly. To do this, it is better to use special ones, such as Senezh or TechnoNicol. There are old-fashioned methods: using engine oil or copper sulfate... But the first will give off a liquid odor, and the second is poisonous.

The finished frame of a large bath from a chamber-drying bar.

The first step is to lay out the lower harness. The bar in the corners is connected with special metal staples or with the help of nails into a corner joint without a remainder, for example, in a half-quarter. The harness is not laid directly on the foundation, but on two narrow slats, which must be laid along the entire perimeter of the base.

At the corners to the strapping, a vertical bar is mounted in size equal to the height of the box. It is best to fasten it to the foundation using special fasteners on a pin of at least 200 mm. One side of the fastener is bolted to the foundation with the other holding a vertical bar. From above, the structure is connected with an upper strapping.

To give additional rigidity between the corners, they put racks from the same bar. Corner posts are additionally secured with at least 8 braces. After they start assembling the subfloor.

Do-it-yourself sub-floor logs are easier to assemble from paired boards of 50x150 mm. Lay the lags of the protruding part of the foundation. A rough floor is laid on top of the logs. Sex cake in rest rooms and dressing rooms is made with insulation. To do this, slats are nailed onto the logs from below and boards are laid on them. Waterproofing and insulation are mounted on the boards. Then a vapor barrier and a finishing board or screed are mounted.

In the steam room, for ease of assembly with your own hands, it is easier to assemble simple floors in the steam room, but it is necessary to reduce them from the slopes to the middle. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate near the walls and frame structure will not last long.

Frame walls must be sewn up from the outside with boards. Then waterproofing is laid from the inside, it is better to take a special membrane. It is not worth using roofing material for a bath; when heated, it will emit a strong smell. Insulation is laid on top. The bath involves the use of environmentally friendly and fireproof materials, such as mineral wool (stone, glass, etc.).

Linden lining is mounted on an additional crate from the inside of the frame bath.

The insulation should be laid tightly between the timber. From the inside, it is necessary to lay foil insulation. It will perform two functions at once: to protect the insulation and create the effect of a thermos in the steam room. The joints are carefully glued with special foil tape. A lathing made of a bar is made on foil insulation and a lining of linden or aspen is stuffed.

The roof is assembled like all structures, according to the chosen project. We have already spoken in more detail about how to mount the roof of a bath.

What material is better for finishing a frame bath outside?

The wall of the frame bath is sheathed with a block house.

The facade of the frame bath is finished with any material. They are chosen based on the general design of all buildings on the site. If the main house is made of brick, then you can sheathe the bath with tile panels under it or overlay it in half a brick. And by putting it in half a brick, you can once again insulate the building from the outside. The basic pie scheme will be slightly supplemented, but the steam room will become warmer.

Natural imitation of a bar and a block house look good. They are made of wood, the bath does not lose its environmental friendliness. And it will be difficult to distinguish the structure from a bath from a bar or a rounded log.

If you perform reinforcement, then you can use decorative plaster... It is also environmentally friendly, and the range of colors and textures in stores is huge.

Most inexpensive option it is siding or plastic lining. The first option is more durable.

Is Canadian technology a breakthrough in wireframe banning?

Frame bath assembled using Canadian technology.

Frame baths on Canadian technology appeared in Russia relatively recently. Canadian technology has a number of advantages:

The service life of a bath is 2–3 times longer than any frame one.
Renovation work have to be done less often.
Environmental friendliness and aesthetics.
The price is slightly higher than the traditional frame.
Assembly can be done in 3-4 days.
Well tolerate negative environmental influences.
Lightweight construction.

The base of the Canadian Bath frame is made of metal frame or from a bar of chamber drying. From above and from the inside, the entire structure is sewn up with slabs of cement and shavings. The bath is insulated with mineral wool between the plates and sealing vapor-proof materials. Thanks to the design, the bath is completely sealed and moisture does not get inside. A Canadian frame bath is made only in large-scale factories according to pre-planned drawings.

Any frame construction, and especially the baths seem uncomplicated. But it takes no less effort and time to work than to build a steam room from solid wood. Just finishing and insulation are costly and laborious. Which sauna is better to build with your own hands for a family, everyone decides for himself.