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The construction of timber houses is becoming more and more popular and in demand. Buildings made of logs and beams are easily and quickly erected. But in addition to the main material - wood, for the construction of a log house, it is also necessary to purchase additional elements that will provide high-quality fasteners for its crowns. After all, just like that, wooden materials installed on top of each other will fall apart over time, under mechanical stress. Fasteners for wooden houses are very different and at different costs. Therefore, it is not easy to find the necessary fasteners among the large assortment of these materials.

Fasteners and what they are for

With the help of fasteners, logs or beams are firmly fixed to each other. The walls are the smoothest and most durable. They do not deform, the wood material itself does not twist, as a result of which large and dangerous gaps in the logs or beams do not form. Despite the strong fixation of the crowns, the fasteners do not interfere with the inevitable process of shrinkage, but on the contrary help the log house to pass it more evenly and without unpleasant consequences.

For the construction of a wooden house, it is advisable to purchase the following set of fasteners, which are dowels, screw jacks, sliding supports, "Force" spring units.

This is an indispensable fastening element, which is indispensable when building a wooden house. They represent the so-called twig of various diameters and sizes, made of wood or metal. It is not advisable to use metal dowels in the construction of wooden houses. Even if they were previously treated with powerful compounds, being inside a wooden material, they will still corrode over time. All this will inevitably lead to damage to the wood. Yes, metal dowels are strong, but they do not work with wood.

Wooden dowels are not inferior in strength to metal ones. they are made of hardwood such as oak and birch. Most often, birch dowels are found on the market, because at a cost they are more affordable than oak. They can be used to fasten all types of wooden houses. Wooden dowels will prevent twisting and deformation of the timber or logs, while not interfering with the uniform shrinkage of the log house, without interfering with the sliding of the crowns down.

The dowels are hammered strictly vertically, from above, into the very center of the log or bar into a pre-drilled hole. One dowel captures two logs at once, connecting the upper and lower rims. The distance between the pins should be 1.5 or 2 meters. The first dowel is driven in at a distance of 0.5 meters from the corner of the frame. The dowels around the entire frame should be staggered.

Screw jacks or shrinkage compensator

Screw jacks are required to prevent horizontal level changes that can occur during home shrinkage. They are adjustable in height, installed on vertical logs, the supports that are installed on the terrace, balcony, or upper floors. This element consists of a metal stud, nut and two steel plates. Screw jacks are made of high-quality steel and a zinc coating is applied on top of them, which prevents the formation of corrosion.

Sliding support

Sliding supports are intended for roofing rafter system... They consist of a sliding corner with a bracket and a hinge. The use of this fastener allows you to protect yourself from possible displacement of the rafter elements that can occur during the shrinkage of the house. The thickness of the iron of the sliding support itself is 2 mm.

This is a more modern fastener. It is a screw with a spring. When it is screwed into logs or beams, it presses them firmly against each other, preventing the formation of cracks and gaps between the crowns. The "Force" spring assembly will prevent deformation and twisting of wooden materials.

Also, this element provides the necessary load to the logs or beams. If the lower rims are experiencing sufficient load, which is carried out by the upper wood materials. That for the logs in the upper rows of the log house, the load comes only from the roof, this is not enough for them. The “Force” spring assembly is most often used precisely to secure the upper rims. Thus, the built house becomes durable, warm and airtight.

It is necessary to build a wooden house using fasteners such as the "Force" spring assembly, sliding supports, dowels and screw jacks... These elements will allow you to build a durable, solid wood house that will keep you warm and safe. Collecting a wooden house on nails or on fittings is a violation of the technology for assembling a log house, which can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Where in Moscow to buy fasteners for the construction of a wooden house?

You can buy all the fasteners listed in the article intended for wooden housing construction in the PROGRESS company. Driving directions to the warehouse - our company's store is located

Fasteners in frame house - a fairly simple topic, but it is important to think over everything in advance so as not to run to stores and buy one kilogram of nails at once, but to immediately buy 150 kilograms (usually so much goes to an average house) of the necessary fasteners on the base with a big discount.
I did so, but still it wasn’t enough, I’ve already gone for new boxes of nails several times.

But of course, there are a lot of extra nails and screws left. Therefore, I want to make it as easy as possible for my readers.

I want to note right away that in a frame house prohibited use screws or self-tapping screws, since the load everywhere goes to the shear, and not to the tension, and neither the screws nor the screws work for the cut, so there is nothing to discuss. Some builders are still sure that self-tapping screws can be used and will persuade you. Don't give in.
But perfect for a cut nails workthey are incredibly difficult to cut. This is, of course, about the load-bearing part of the house, not about finishing.

And I also want to say about corners... Corners are not used by professionals in frame construction (not counting the temporary attachment of the trusses to the harness). To use them can, only unprofitable in terms of time and money, decide for yourself. Again, be on the lookout for builders who will recommend using them.

Foundation fasteners

The following fasteners are used for the pile foundation:
if you have screw foundationthen you need anchor steel bolts.
if you have a bored foundation, then you need studs m10 and washers with m10 nuts (if you do as I do, pouring the studs in the fill) or anchor bolts for concrete.
if you have slab foundation or ribbon, then you will need again anchor bolts for concrete.

Fasteners for the frame of a frame house

All boards in the frame box are pounded with regular construction smooth nails diameters 3.1-3.5 mm and length 80-90mm (usually 90 mm if the board is 50 mm thick and 80 mm if the boards are 40 mm thick).
An exception may be the lathing on the walls or floor; it is better to use screw or punched nails there.

Fasteners for cladding a frame house

Fasteners for floor sheathing.
60mm nails - better ruffled or screw + glue (or self-tapping screws of the same length).
Such nails help to hold the floor firmly, so that it does not creak or be "alive".

Fasteners for outside wall cladding.
50 mm nails - better flared or screw.
This applies to both OSB-3 boards and plywood, and an inch (which I will use for sheathing a frame house).

Fasteners for wall cladding from the inside.
If the lining from the inside goes with plasterboard, then you will need special self-tapping screws for drywall length 25 mm (less often 35mm) length. Do not forget only about the correct tightening of the screws:


If you have a lining inside, then it can be fastened with nails 50-70 mm.

Fasteners for metal tiles

For the installation of metal tiles, special roofing self-tapping screws dimensionssizes 4.8x20 and 4.8x38 mm (metal-metal, metal-wood).

Fasteners for windows

There are several methods for fixing windows in a frame house.

  1. On anchor
  2. On plates

Accordingly, in each case, you will need the appropriate fasteners. I will tell you more about the installation of windows in due time, when I will fix them myself.

Fasteners for siding

Galvanized self-tapping screws with a wide head (not less than 8mm) long not less than 15 mm or galvanized nails with a wide cap (less often) with a length of at least 40 mm.

Fasteners for a wooden facade

Galvanized nails 50-70 mm (better galvanized, since zinc plating is carried out by electrolysis, and not by the usual "hot" method).

Fasteners for the terrace

For the terrace, it is better to use stainless or galvanized steel screws. There is a special fixture for terraces, but for the price it comes out as half a terrace.

It is also recommended to attach the terrace boards to hidden snake fasteners.

In this video, you can look at almost every fastener visually in more detail:

So, fasteners are a very important element of a frame house, which you should pay close attention to if you do not want it to fall apart over time or just burst at the seams. Do not fall for the persuasion of builders who want to build you a house using screws, self-tapping screws and other inappropriate things.
Read reviews from real residents frame houses on the forum or in my article and gain experience so that no one deceives you.

When construction of houses from a bar or construction of baths from a bar uses the following fasteners and fittings:

  1. Steel nails 150, 200, 250 mm as dowel pins for crown screed in 1m increments.
  2. Steel nails 100, 150 mm as a connection of nodes in structures of the base (strapping), roof, partitions, etc.
  3. Steel nails 50, 70, 100 mm for fastening numerous hidden and non-hidden nodes wooden structures buildings.
  4. Galvanized nails 50, 60, 70 mm for fixing the lining inside the building, floors and other visible structures (doors, windows, etc.).
  5. Steel and galvanized nails 10, 20, 30, 40 mm for fastening glazing beads, plinths, hardboard.
  6. Self-tapping screws from 16 mm to 120 mm for hinges, window and door fittings, window and door blocks, many elements of wooden structures.
  7. Capercaillie - large screws for fastening different wooden parts, for example: a wooden grillage to piles.
  8. Bolts and studs of various lengths and diameters.
  9. Brackets for fastening the nodes of the base (strapping) and rafter base.
  10. Shrink bracket (for terraces, verandas, etc., made under the same roof with the building).
  11. The hinges are available as laid-on, mortise. They can be articulated with a removable rod that cannot be removed from the hinges. The length of the loops is different from 40, 60, 110 and more. The design of the hinges provides for the possibility of removing window sashes, door leafs without unscrewing or unscrewing.
  12. Handles - brackets are mounted symmetrically.
  13. Lanyard handles with L-shaped handles without locks and with locks.
  14. Locks with keys for entrance doors.
  15. Locking devices: latches, latches, latches of various types.
  16. Mortise and overhead door locks.
  17. Self-tapping screws, wood grouses, roofing nails, slate nails - for the roof.
  18. Nogis a wooden element of a cylindrical or square shape used in the construction of houses and the construction of baths from wood, timber, logs.

    Nagel (thorn, dowel) - a fastening element of building structures, which

    prevents displacement and shifts relative to each other of wooden structures (houses, baths)


    Bolt connections are used in low-rise construction (construction of country houses, construction of wooden houses, construction of baths).

    Nagel are:

    • metal - pieces of reinforcement of a certain length and diameter (nails 200mm)

    Advantage: better pull the timber together.

    • wooden - made of hard wood (birch or oak), with a diameter of about 25 mm., installation strictly perpendicular in advance drilled holes easily.

    Advantage: even shrinkage at home, wood in wood - a homogeneous environment with evenly distributed moisture.

    Disadvantages: house assembly takes longer, the process is more laborious, the price is more expensive.


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