How to sheathe walls with clapboard - instructions from a specialist. How to sheathe a frame house outside How to properly sheathe walls with clapboard inside

Facade finishing country house vinyl siding has become very popular today. Therefore, the assortment of vinyl panels is constantly growing on the construction markets, and in addition, the list of companies providing services for the installation of such structures is expanding every day.
Of course, it is convenient, but do not forget that such services cost money and, moreover, considerable, and as you know, when building a country house, every penny is counted. So, if you agree with this, then it is better to undertake and independently sheathe the walls of the house with your hands, especially since there is nothing complicated in this work. And what do not say, but the proverb is right - "if you want it to be good - do it yourself!" But it will be so, if only to do everything right. But now we will tell you about how to properly sheathe a house with siding with your own hands.

Siding the house ourselves!

First of all, you need to decide on the required amount of cladding material. After all, if in the course of work the material turns out to be insufficient, then this will lead to unnecessary trouble - you will have to stop work, go to the market, look for the same store in order to buy an additional batch. What will happen if the panels of the type you need are suddenly over, there is no need to tell, this is understandable. On the other hand, buying siding with a large margin is still a waste of money. Therefore, it is so important to be able to correctly calculate the exact number of panels.

To do this, you must first measure the width and height of each wall of the house, which is supposed to be sheathed. Further, by multiplying the length by the width, the surface area is calculated. Adding the areas of all surfaces, we get the total area.

The same algorithm determines the total area of \u200b\u200bopenings - door and window. The result is subtracted from the total wall area calculated in the previous step.

After that, it remains only to calculate required amount panels, for which the result obtained earlier is divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone panel: N \u003d S / (in x a), where:

N - required number of panels
S is the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls minus the area of \u200b\u200bthe openings.
в - the length of the siding panel
a - panel width

Installation of siding involves the use of additional fasteners. These include corners (internal and external), connectors, starting and finishing rails, as well as special finishing panels window openings... The amount of related materials is determined based on the specific conditions and the calculated number of panels. In order not to be mistaken, it is better to ask for advice from sellers of specialized hardware stores.

Vinyl siding can be mounted in two ways - directly on the wall or on a special frame. The first option is preferable when decorating wooden walls, for example, a house made of rounded logs or glued beams.

Such houses are characterized by increased resistance to frost and, as a rule, do not need additional thermal insulation. This significantly reduces the amount of preparatory work: it will only be necessary to close up the cracks and temporarily dismantle all attachments, such as drain pipes, for example.

In the event that the walls of a country house require additional insulation, you will have to resort to using a second, more complex technology. For it, you will first need to arrange a crate of wooden slats over the walls of the house. The frequency of the support rails depends on the configuration of the selected panels, as well as their orientation in space - vertically, horizontally (preferably) or diagonally.

The distance between the crate and the main wall of the house depends on the type of insulation chosen, which is laid precisely in this space. Required condition effective thermal insulation - the use of vapor barrier materials during its construction, which protect the insulation from moisture.

Whichever installation option is chosen, the crate is used or the siding is mounted directly on the wall, self-tapping screws are used as a fastening element, which are screwed into the holes provided on the siding panels specifically for this purpose.

Instead of self-tapping screws, ordinary nails can be used, but in this case there is a risk of ruining the panel without calculating the depth of the nail. The fact is that during installation, it is imperative to leave a small gap between the head of the screw or nail and the surface of the panel. In summer, at elevated temperatures, siding panels expand and the absence of a gap leads to their deformation.

The connection of the panels to each other is carried out by introducing the lock of the mounted panel into a special bend of the previous one. Thanks to this technology, it is possible to completely sheathe the house and at the same time ensure a perfectly flat surface of the facade. But this is only possible if the integrity of each panel used. At the final stage of work, the joints of the panels are decorated with special accessories. As you can see, it will not be difficult to sheathe the walls with your own hands if they are even and you clearly follow the instructions.

Registration from: 12-31-2014

Today, many owners of residential and non-residential premises use lining as a facing material for walls, because of its high quality and ease of use. However, indeed quality material is not cheap, you may want to save money and sheathe the walls with clapboard on your own. In principle, it is not difficult to do this, and now we will consider how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard.

Preparatory process

Choosing a material

There are 2 options for lining: wooden and plastic (PVC). Of course, a high-quality tree is preferable: it is durable, environmentally friendly, has good sound insulation and heat retention properties. But if you are making repairs in a room where the humidity is high, you should use PVC. Other characteristics of the room also matter. For example, it is better not to use pine for a bath, because when heated, it begins to release resin, and the appearance of the room will be spoiled.

Cooking material

So, you have made your choice and now you need to prepare the material for further work. The tree must be treated with special agents that will prevent decay, mold and damage by insects. You can also glaze the planks to give them the desired color. In conclusion, the planks must be brought into the room and allowed to rest for a day to adapt to temperature conditions.

Install the crate

When the material is ready, you can start working directly. Of course, in order to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard, you must first install the crate. This is done as follows:

1. Pre-prepare the wall. We apply a special moisture-proof putty on it, if part of the wall is sometimes wet. If the walls require insulation, then first we lay the insulation and cover it with a vapor barrier, which, among other things, will improve sound insulation.

2. We take a purchased or homemade rail with a section of 20mm x 40mm (if the wall is absolutely flat, then 10mm x 15mm can be used) and fasten it with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver perpendicular to the direction of panel installation at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. By the way, the bars also need to be pre-processed with the same materials as the lining.

3. Using the mounting level, we check how evenly the rails are installed. If the walls are uneven, you will have to level the lathing. To do this, we put a piece of timber, plywood or a mounting wedge under the rail, fix the structure with long screws or dowels. We make a control check by level.

4. At the bottom of the slats, set at a distance of 3 cm to 5 cm from the floor for laying flooring.

5. Fasten the lathing along the ceiling, in the corners, around the window and doorways... And we proceed to the installation of the lining.

Wall cladding

Half of the work is ready, now it remains to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard. To do this, you need to determine the method of fastening the material. There are several of them. You can hammer in nails obliquely from the tongue side, you can clip the bar on the groove side, or when using offset bars with any of the fastening materials.

With vertical wall sheathing, you need to start moving from the left corner. The distance between the lining strips and the ceiling should be 5 mm. The distance to the floor covering should be 10 - 15 mm. De-energize and dismantle all electrical appliances. We fix the first lining and check it with a level, if everything is in order, we fix it with self-tapping screws. Next, we insert the protruding part of the next plank into the groove of the first one and click it, after which, like the previous one, we attach it to the crate. We pass so along all the walls to the end.

As for horizontal sheathing, it is not very different from vertical sheathing. It always starts from the ceiling, so that the grooves are directed downward. The lining can always be shortened or cut in order to properly distribute around a window or door.

Next, we mount the starting profile, leaning its long part against the crate. We fix it from the inside with self-tapping screws. We insert the lining into the groove of the final profile and push it tightly. This method is suitable for PFC panels. For wooden lining there are also special decorative profiles that will help hide the joints at the corners, give an aesthetic look to the framing of windows and doors. The work is now complete. This is how you can properly sheathe the walls with clapboard.

Walls and corners, especially in a log building, need maintenance. They must be insulated outside. Consider how to sheathe a house with do-it-yourself siding in combination with insulation measures. Let's say a few words about the features of finishing a garage or other outbuildings.

Why did you create siding?

This construction material is in great demand. It is unpretentious in maintenance, it is not afraid of the vagaries of the weather, and the plates themselves are lightweight and easy to assemble. It is so convenient to decorate a shed or garage. But why are they covering houses, schools and kindergartens with them? This is because the rise in the price of electricity has affected everyone, and the kilometer bills are becoming more and more difficult to pay.

What to do? Naturally, you need to insulate houses and it is better to do this outside, especially if there is not too much living space. Almost all heaters are afraid of exposure sun rays, excessive moisture and other natural phenomena, and some cladding materials like natural wood wet from the rains.

Siding panels do not have such disadvantages. They will perfectly protect the walls and the insulation attached to them from negative impact weather. Vinyl, metal and other types of siding are sheathed not only in houses with and without insulation, but also in garages, warehouses, sheds and others utility rooms, because their walls also need protection from the vagaries of the weather. Sometimes only the facade of the building is decorated, because such a material also copes with this function remarkably.

We sheathe a barn or garage - why metal?

Detailed instructions on how to work with the most common type - vinyl siding, we will consider a little below. Moreover, many panels are needed for the walls and facade of the house, it will be somewhat cheaper than other materials. But a garage or a shed can be sheathed with metal. If possible, then it is better to purchase a polymer-coated material. It will be more durable, and its service life will reach 50 years. The indisputable advantages also include fire resistance, which is so important, especially if you need to finish the walls of a garage or a warehouse in which flammable substances are stored. In addition, due to their excellent durability, such panels are in demand for covering shops, gas stations and even factories with factories.

Having made the necessary calculations and purchasing the material you like with accessories, you can proceed to installation work... We remove all the elements from the walls of the garage so that they are as free as possible. Then we clean them of dirt and, if necessary, prime them. Next, we assemble the frame from profiles, maintaining a distance between the cells of at least 60 cm and no more than 1 m. Do not forget to leave a technological gap for ventilation, 5-10 cm is enough.

Since this type of siding has a long service life, the frame should be made only of galvanized profiles... Don't use for it wooden slats, they will rot much earlier than the cladding material becomes unusable. And if, for example, you have a wooden shed (often these utility rooms are made of timber), then such a crate will also allow you to level the surface.

You need to work with gloves, otherwise you can injure yourself on the sharp edges of the planks, and you should cut the panels in goggles. Metal strips are assembled in the same way as plastic ones, from bottom to top. At the bottom is the starting bar, and the final one is the finishing bar, and during their installation, a gap of 5 mm must be maintained. To protect the insides of the facade from precipitation, you can stick a special seal on the frame around the openings, and then press it with metal sheets. In all other respects, the process of covering a garage, warehouse or shed takes place according to the instructions described in the next paragraph.

How to work with panels correctly?

To protect the walls, and especially the facades of stone and wooden houses with insulation, sheathing them with siding, you will have to spend a lot of time, since there will be a lot of calculations and fittings, because we decided to decorate the house with our own hands.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Calculations

Absolutely any construction works start with preparation, because this is a guarantee of speed and quality of the result. First produced. It is best to sketch the building and indicate all dimensions (walls, facade, window and door openings, etc.). Further, remembering the mathematics lessons for grade 5, we make elementary calculations. Openings are subtracted from the total area, but if the latter are few and they small size, then this action can be ignored. Then you will buy a little more cladding material, and you will have the opportunity to replace damaged panels in the future.

Step 2: material selection

Siding differs in color, material, size, there are many configurations and, of course, the main parameter is product quality. The vinyl version is in great demand for cladding the facade or private buildings around the entire perimeter. The planks of this hard plastic are very strong and durable. Also, the advantages include durability and ease of maintenance. It is enough just to wash the coating and it will become like new. A huge range of colors and a variety of designs will allow you to choose a material for every taste. When choosing a product in a store, inspect all the elements. Defects are unacceptable, the panels must be of the same thickness throughout the entire area. The presence of a special hurricane lock and double-sided painting indicate good quality. Ask sales consultants to present a certificate for the product.

Step 3: Tools and accessories

Having bought a set of vinyl, wood or other siding, which you are going to sheathe the building yourself, you can start preparing the tool and it is better to select it depending on the type of house - whether you built it from timber or brick, made it with or without insulation. We need profiles, corners and accessories. If the latter did not come with the panels, then they should be purchased separately. Also prepare a building level, corner, hammer, long tape measure and pencil. It is convenient to cut the panels with an electric saw, but you can also use scissors for metal. Do not forget the perforator, without it, the installation of the crate cannot be performed, especially when the house is not made of timber, but something harder. When choosing fasteners, make sure that they are not afraid of corrosion, because we are talking about outdoor work.

Step 4: surface preparation

We dismantle all removable parts, these include downpipes, canopies, platbands, shutters and other elements that may interfere with work. There are especially many of them on the facade, so you can start from this part of the house. Having freed up the area as much as possible, we proceed to the walls. If they already have some kind of protective covering, then it should also be removed. Next, we check the processed plane with a level. The difference should not be more than 15 mm, otherwise the unevenness will be noticeable even after facing.

If you have to sheathe wooden house (for example, from a bar) or a log shed, then be sure to treat its walls with a primer that will prevent them from rotting. Reinforced concrete and stone surfaces are covered with special antiseptic agents, often a garage. If it is rainy weather or high humidity outside, it is better to postpone work until later, since the surface to be treated must be absolutely dry.

In autumn, store the panels in the house or in another warm room, as being in the cold, they become too fragile, which will complicate installation.

Step 5: Install the battens

You can fix the protective material without a frame, but this will significantly worsen the quality of work, so it is better not to be lazy and make a crate. Building profiles are perfect for it, but use is allowed wooden beam (profile approximately 50x50). Only there are a few reservations about such a crate. It is desirable that the length of the timber be greater than the height of the building. And if you still decide to give preference to natural wood, make sure that it is dry, otherwise the frame will lead over time, most noticeably it will be on the facade, where there are many joints and transitions.

We start mounting from the left corner. We install each new lathing strip perpendicular to the carrier bar in increments of about 35 cm. Be sure to tie all openings with the carrier profile and leave space for communications and outdoor lighting. The profiles are mounted on special hangers. There should be at least 4 of them per rail 3 m long. Under one suspension, we drill two holes directed towards each other, drive plastic plugs into them and install fasteners, fixing it with self-tapping screws. Be sure to check the vertical and horizontal of the "skeleton", for this we need a level with a plumb line.

Foundation sheathing

Now we have reached the most exciting issue - fastening of protective strips. The lower part of the house is sheathed with plinth panels, which are highly durable. Further, stepping back 10 mm from basement siding, a starting strip is installed on the wall. It is mounted to vertical posts using self-tapping screws. Use the level and follow the horizontal, because how correctly this element will be exposed depends general form... Do not forget about the corners, the panels can be launched on top of each other. If there are window openings, then the connecting profiles should be mounted in their center.

Step 8: panel mounting

The rest is pretty simple. The planks are easily cut with a grinder, while it is desirable to use thin discs. Each row is inserted into the previous one from bottom to top. Constantly check the horizontal level. The panels are fixed with special self-tapping screws with press washers. Fasteners are screwed in strictly in the middle of the perforation, while it is better to underpress them a little (about 1 mm). Be sure to pay special attention to the panel joints. The planks must not be offset from each other.

Step 9: door and window openings

Siding will serve as an excellent material for framing houses. If you want buildings lined with these plastic panelshad original appearance, which is especially important for the facade, you can experiment with colors... For example, it is beautiful when framing around openings and plinth panels several shades differ from the main color. Sometimes the bottom is made dark, and the framing elements, on the contrary, are chosen white. Around the openings, special J-shaped profiles are mounted, and the resulting frame is sheathed with near-window strips. The final is a special finish line.

The popularity of the cladding material is no coincidence. Lumber houses, although they have a presentable appearance, age over time, do not look very attractive and require renovation. In addition to the aesthetic component, the lining is also practical. About this and the stages self-assembly below.

The advantages of clapboard cladding

The material is made of wood planks equipped with a tongue-and-groove lock. Like any wood raw material, it has advantages and disadvantages. Among the first:

• Ecology.
• Appearance.
• The ability to hide the insulation.
• Simplicity of styling.

The second include:

• The ability to biodegrade.
• Shrinkage with the house.
• Flammability.
• The price.

Why is material for objects good? Firstly, houses from a bar, sheathed with clapboard, are warmer, since the corresponding polymers or mineral options are laid under the cladding. Secondly, in this way, they conceal an unpresentable secondary timber or structure, the age of which is calculated in tens of years.

To save their own funds, they purchase lining of two types - ordinary and euro. The latter is distinguished by impeccable geometry, deep grooves and an absolute dryness indicator. It is used on interior surfaces.

How to sheathe a log house with clapboard correctly. Instructions

To start home master tools will be required: hacksaw, drill, hammer, level, marker, timber for lathing 50 * 50 mm. And the actual material itself. The work is carried out according to the following rules:

1. Surface marking for the frame. First, they are determined with the desired position of the lining on it. If it is horizontal, then the frame of the beams should be arranged vertically and vice versa. The step of the lathing is the width of the insulation, if the surface is processed inside the house, and a little more often outside, when the mineral plates and styrenes will not be laid. Range 50-70 cm. The attachment points are marked with a colored marker.
2. Laying the steam membrane inside and waterproofing on the outside walls. This is an axiom, without protective coatings, the lining will come to a deplorable state. Fasten the material with a stapler or tape. Adhesives are unacceptable, as the wood will stop breathing.
3. Using a level, they fill the crate. All the edges of the bars should be in the same plane, the even position of the entire skin depends on this. By the way, for internal surfaces, the width of the bars should be 1.5 cm more than the thickness of the insulation layers. Otherwise, tight contact will lead to blockage of ventilation, the main guarantee of the durability of wood.
4. Laying styrenes or mineral wool... The material should fit tightly without gaps. It is best to use progressive products - fibers have a lot of complaints, both in terms of quality and environmental.
5. Directly sheathing. It starts from bottom to top. The first plank is reinforced with the selected fasteners - self-tapping screws, decorative nails and others.

A second is put on it and pressed tightly. And then according to the laid pattern. Thus, sheathed with clapboard log house do it yourself.

There are several rules for the inside and outside. About them below.

Nuances of facing the surfaces of the house:

Aggressive environments - humidity, temperature changes, cold and heat, can affect the lining and its fastening. By following the recommendations, damage to the material can be avoided.

Internal walls

• Before work, the building product must stand in the house for at least a month. Otherwise, starting to interact with a warm room, the raw material will dry on the walls, which will undoubtedly lead to shrinkage and warping.
• Each bar must be treated with all kinds of compounds for protection - moisture-resistant, heat-resistant. It is better to use each composition separately - universal options do not give a good effect.
• Arrangement of ventilation ducts between the lining and the insulation. As mentioned above, the gap is at least 1.5 cm.
• Use special fastening clamps. It is more aesthetically pleasing - with possible drying, nails can look out.

With progressive details, this will not happen. In addition, with an erroneous process, it will not be difficult to return and redo everything. Wherein beautiful material will remain intact.

External walls

• Lining boards are fixed strictly with a groove top. To avoid rainwater ingress and stagnation in grooves.
• When strengthening the lathing, the timber frames the window and door openings.
• Use the rules for interior walls - required. Protection and fasteners should not differ from the place of work.

It is not difficult to sheathe your own log house with your own hands with clapboard.

Lining has the advantage of eliminating defects and redoing the result, but if you approach the issue in detail, then the latter will not happen.

Durable, beautiful and comfortable facing material - lining - can often be found in the interior decoration of apartments and houses. It can be used both in the country and when decorating a sauna; in some cases metal or plastic lining is used even for facades. The secret of the beauty of the walls, finished with clapboard, is fully revealed only with strict adherence to the technology of laying this material. Therefore, the question of how to sheathe the clapboard surfaces inside the house with your own hands correctly is very important: you can spend time and work, but not achieve the desired result.

A room lined with clapboard looks stylish

Choosing a material

If the choice of lining for interior decoration is made, then it is better to dwell on the following material options:

• wood;
• Fiberboard / chipboard;
• MDF panels;
• plastic.

It is no accident that plastic is put in last place: despite the obvious cost-effectiveness, rich color palette and ease of use, it is still not environmentally friendly and mechanically strong enough to completely cover the walls with it. In addition, the material, although sufficiently resistant to high temperatures, nevertheless, does not differ in increased fire resistance. Already at 100 ° C and above, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) - the main part of the plastic lining - releases bad smell, and even more high temperatures begins to smolder.

The metal lining is too heavy to sheathe a room with it. In addition, in the warm season, a room decorated with such material will heat up very intensively.

Of the remaining three options, preference in most cases is given to wood products. The fact is that the walls, covered with clapboard made of pressed wood-shaving materials, must subsequently be painted or covered with transparent varnishes that imitate a particular type of wood. This will delay the interior decoration work for some time.

Fibreboard lining must be varnished

If the choice is made towards wooden lining, then in advance you should choose the optimal color and texture solution of the panels. With a great positive superiority over other materials in terms of environmental friendliness, excellent protection against noise, and low thermal conductivity, lining made of wood is a rather expensive material.

Therefore, if you decide to sheathe the house with wood clapboard with your own hands, then you should focus on the highest quality grades of material - Extra, A or B. Class C lining will fit for finishing the technical premises of the house - a pantry, a hallway.

In addition to the class of finishing, the type of wood also matters. For example, softwood lining is easy to stack and provides the healthiest environment. A room lined with such material will never leave the aromatic smell of resin.

Getting ready for styling

The room must first be prepared for laying: carry out all the internal wiring, mark the places for sockets and switches. It is worth doing this, taking into account not only the convenience of use, but also taking into account the dimensions of the mounted panels, so that later you do not perform unnecessary joints and do not install additional strips. The same goes for places where a window or doorway is located.

It is necessary to prepare for laying not only the room, but also the lining itself. If you have to sheathe the walls with clapboard in the cold season, then the material brought from the store must be kept in the room for at least two days. When cladding rooms with high humidity with your own hands (for example, inside a bathroom), all panels should be treated with moisture-resistant varnish (preferably in 2 layers), let them dry and only then start installation. Between the first and second coatings, the material is emeted to increase the smoothness of the surface.

Of necessary tools for do-it-yourself sheathing you will need:

• hacksaw,
• construction stapler,
• a hammer,
• plumb line
• level,
• core.

To work you need a set of tools

Preparing the surface for cladding

There are few ways to lay the lining inside, you have to choose from three:

• vertical;
• horizontal;
• inclined laying.

The latter method is much less common: it is difficult and costly to sheathe surfaces at an angle with your own hands, and the visible advantages are coma original look topcoat, no. In other cases, they are guided by the following rules:

1. For wall cladding in the attic, only horizontal cladding is used.
2. Vertical cladding visually increases the height of the room.
3. Horizontal paneling visually makes the room wider.

Having decided on the method of laying, they begin to prepare the walls - they must be even, which is checked with a plumb line. All surface flaws must be eliminated: cracks are putty, grooves are filled with mortar. If the house is not wooden, then a sheet insulation... In combination with air gap between the crate and the wall, it will serve as an additional barrier for heat leaks.

It is necessary to correctly perform the lathing under the lining

The installation of the battens is carried out in a direction perpendicular to the direction of laying the lining: for example, with the horizontal method of sheathing, the battens are fixed to the wall vertically, and vice versa. Wooden bars are taken as battens of the lathing (the wood must have normal humidity and be pre-treated with an antifungal compound). The minimum section of the bars is 20x40 mm.

It is convenient to mark the location of the bars mounted on the walls with a chalk cord or marker. With a horizontal lathing, the step between adjacent bars is taken in the range of 400-600 mm, and the first and last row are installed in such a way as to ensure convenient fastening of the lining. For the bottom row, an amendment is made for the subsequent installation of the plinth.

It is worth leaving a small gap (5-10 mm) between the individual bars - this will ensure better conditions for air circulation. All windows and doorways are sheathed with the same bars. If the house is wooden, then the bars can be fastened with galvanized nails; for brick and especially concrete walls only dowels are used.

The requirements for the pitch of the lathing and the installation of bars in the case of subsequent vertical clapboarding are similar.

We carry out installation

The first panel of material should be installed especially carefully: its accuracy will determine the quality of all subsequent cladding. They usually start from one of the corners of the room farthest from the door. The board is exposed using a level, and it should be perfectly flat (if there are roughnesses, they should be eliminated with a plane).

Installation starts from the far wall

TO wooden wall the panels are nailed with decorative nails with a coating that matches the color of the interior. If you do not want to contemplate the nail heads every day, you need to use hatless nails, which are driven in with a blunt core. That's right, when the angle of inclination of the nail in relation to the surface of the lining is approximately 70-80 °.

Many manufacturers, in particular, euro lining, supply their products with special clamps. These clamps are attached to the lathing bars with nails or staples (in the latter case, a construction stapler is used), after which the panels of the material themselves are attached with their help.

The clapboarding work is completed by the installation of wooden corner elements - in the corners of the room and at the openings.