Ventilation in a private house from a bar. The device of a ventilation system in a house from a bar How to make supply ventilation in a log house

Wood as a building material is able to "breathe", which compares favorably with objects made of bricks and foam blocks. However, premises for special purposes and high humidity in wooden buildings still need additional ventilation, since wood may not cope with a large amount of steam, and, therefore, rot. About what ventilation should be in a house from a bar and how to equip it - below.

Types of ventilation in private houses

Air exchange systems in private houses are represented by the following types:

There is a fourth type of systems - with recuperation. The bottom line is that the exhaust air, leaving the premises, gives the temperature to the incoming masses. Thus, reducing heat loss.

However, it is impossible to independently design such a system without knowledge and experience, and there are significant disadvantages - noise and cost. It is more customary to install it at non-residential facilities.

Calculation of the project and materials for the construction of ventilation

As a rule, ventilation of a log house is natural or supply and exhaust - they will be discussed. Before starting the installation, take the following steps:

Installation

Usually, air ducts are laid under the cladding inside the house from a bar, where insulation and hidden communications will be laid - wires or pipes.

Houses made of laminated veneer lumber, the ventilation of which is hidden, and the exhaust openings are closed with decorative grilles, look very dignified. Further:

High-quality ventilation of a house from a bar is impossible without an appropriate system in the basements, if they are provided for by the project. This room is especially in need of ventilation, since contact with dampness is almost constant. As a breather, pieces of asbestos pipes or polyethylene sewer pipes are usually laid in the foundation.

The solution can be a natural system of air vents - air inlets located around the entire perimeter of the basement - they must be periodically opened in winter. The number of vents is determined by the design of the house or sanitary rules, taking into account the volume and height of the room.

Wood, as it is, is an excellent indoor climate due to the natural characteristics of the trunk. However, if it is not protected with all kinds of compounds, then the accumulation of moisture is inevitable, which will entail damage - rotting, fungus, mold. A large number of impregnations will naturally affect the air permeability of the raw material.

The solution to the problem lies in the creation of a high-quality ventilation system project and its installation. If the owners do not understand the whole essence of the correct laying, then it is worth contacting the specialists of this profile and the desired results - the microclimate and regular airing of the wood - will be achieved.

Total score: 10 Voted: 1

In the recent past, wooden houses did well without ventilation systems. Air currents entered the house through the gaps between the crowns and the gaps in the window and door frames, and were removed through the chimney of the Russian stove. Modern wooden houses are arranged in a slightly different way. Russian stoves and cracks in building structures have disappeared. Therefore, additional ventilation is necessary for new log buildings.

Why do you need air exchange in a wooden house

Air exchange in the house from a bar removes exhaust air from the premises along with vapors, carbon dioxide, unpleasant odors, and instead supplies fresh air flows into the rooms. If the ventilation is working properly, the tenants of houses from a bar do not even notice it. But any failure of the air exchange system is visible immediately: condensation forms on the walls, a smell of dampness appears, due to a lack of oxygen, the well-being of the household worsens.

Types of ventilation systems:

• With natural impulse;
• With forced motivation.

Natural air exchange

Natural air exchange scheme

A few years ago, natural ventilation was widely used in residential buildings. The inflow was carried out through the cracks in the building structures, and the exhaust - through the ventilation ducts located in the kitchens and bathrooms. With this method of organizing air exchange, traction is provided by the difference in temperature indicators inside and outside the house and by pressure drops. Such a system is easy to install and inexpensive.

Important! To improve draft, natural ventilation ducts should not be laid horizontally, and sharp turns should also be avoided. Excessive geometry reduces the efficiency of the natural ventilation system of the log structure.

But at the same time, the system has a number of disadvantages: inability to control air exchange, drafts, dust entering the room, heat leakage. Difficulties are added by the dependence of natural ventilation systems on temperature indicators. In winter and summer, air exchange is quite intense, but in autumn and spring, air stagnation begins in the room. The situation can be partially corrected by installing fans in the air ducts, but this does not solve the problem of heat leakage in cold weather.

Modern houses from a bar are as tight as possible, which makes it impossible for an inflow through gaps in building structures. Therefore, it is better to organize air supply to the room through the wall inlet valves.

Important! Air exhaust ducts are installed in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, closet. If these rooms are located side by side, their ducts can be combined. Independent exhaust ducts are needed for boiler rooms and rooms with fireplaces.

Forced ventilation

Forced ventilation device

Compared to natural air exchange, a forced ventilation system has many advantages. Its work is more efficient and does not depend on weather conditions. In areas with unfavorable ecology, such ventilation will be a real salvation - thanks to filters, the home will always receive purified air without unpleasant odors.

Forced ventilation device options:

• Typesetting system;
• Monoblock installation.

The compulsory type-setting system of a log house includes air ducts, an intake and exhaust unit, filters, an air heater, an air humidifier, and silencers. The principle of ventilation is as follows: air from the outside with the help of a supply fan is blown into the structure, passes through filters, heats up or cools down to a comfortable temperature and is supplied to the rooms. Exhaust ducts with exits to the kitchen, bathrooms, walk-in closets are connected to a powerful exhaust unit located in the attic. For aesthetics, the duct routing is usually hidden behind an exhaust ceiling.

Due to their compact size, monoblock air handling units are suitable for installation in small houses. All structural elements (filters, humidifiers, air heater, recuperator) are enclosed in a sound-insulated housing. Thanks to its quiet operation, the unit can be placed close to living quarters.

Ground floor

Air exchange in the basement

The basement floor is a rather costly enterprise, but at the same time it allows you to significantly increase the usable space. In traditional log buildings, basement floors are absent, but if you wish, you can resort to this method of increasing the living or utility area. They often house billiard rooms, laundries, gyms or storage rooms.

Ventilation on the basement floor is mandatory. The system can be either natural or forced. The method of air exchange on the basement floor should be taken care of even at the stage of designing houses from a bar. For natural air exchange, air vents are mounted in the walls - one hole for every 2-3 meters; for buildings in the lowlands, the number of air inlets increases. The inlet is cut under the ceiling, the pipe is led out to the roof.

Ventilation device in a wooden house

On construction sites, we can read what is in a wooden house. However, this is not entirely true: the tree "breathes" not air, but excess moisture. Therefore, it will not be possible to ventilate all rooms with the help of beams. The way out is to equip the building with a ventilation system.

Someone thinks that the throughput of the tree is enough to ventilate the house: they say, our ancestors lived in wooden huts and did not build any ventilation systems. Here are just construction then and now - two big differences. No one monitored the tightness of the peasant houses - the wind penetrated into the premises from all cracks.

Now builders prevent drafts and heat loss. First, they equip the walls with hydro, steam and thermal insulation. Secondly, wooden houses are often built from laminated veneer lumber, which does not allow air to pass through due to layers of glue. Thirdly, the gaps between the beams are covered with sealant, the wood is treated with varnishes and impregnations. As a result, the building looks like a thermos - without airing it is hot, stuffy and uncomfortable.

Without ventilation, not only residents, but also the tree itself, experience discomfort. Depending on the
wooden structures dry out and crack over time, or, conversely, absorb moisture and swell. Fungus and mold appear on the walls; the tree rots and collapses. Good ventilation will help maintain optimal humidity levels.

How to establish ventilation in a wooden house

Stage 1: make a plan

Develop a ventilation system project. We believe that this is the most important stage: without a clear and correct scheme, the final result may not suit you. Ventilation will be either ineffective or inconvenient.

When making a plan, you need to consider four things: the type of equipment, the number of residents in the house, the area of \u200b\u200ball rooms and the rate of air exchange. We will talk in detail about the types of ventilation later, and now - about the other aspects.

Air exchange rates for a wooden house the following:

• for residential premises (living room, bedroom) - at least 30 m3 / h per person;
• for a kitchen with a gas stove - 60 m3 / h, with an electric one - 50 m3 / h. During cooking, air exchange should increase to 180 m3 / h;
• for a separate bathroom and toilet - 25 m3 / h, for a combined bathroom - 50 m3 / h;
• for technical rooms, storerooms and dressing rooms - 15 m3 / h.

For the whole house, not counting the kitchen, bathroom and balconies, they usually take the value of 3 m3 / h for each square meter of the cottage area.

If you do not know how to make such a plan and draw diagrams, contact a professional designer for help.

Stage 2: equip the ventilation itself

The most important thing in organizing a ventilation system is to install air ducts. Pipes are made from plastics, metals and polymeric materials. By design, they are of two types:

Built-in (in other words - ventilation shafts). They are installed inside the walls during the construction phase.

External. These are pendant or extension boxes that are installed on the wall or under the ceiling. In everyday life, they are used more often than built-in ones.

As a rule, for a residential wooden house it is advised to purchase plastic pipes of a circular cross-section with a diameter of 15–25 cm. They are easy to install, air moves through them quickly. The larger the diameter of the duct, the more air will pass through it.

The inside of the ducts must be smooth so that the air flow passes unhindered and dust does not collect on the walls. There should be no narrowing at the joints, but if they cannot be avoided, then make them smooth. It is advisable to make as few bends and turns as possible at the ventilation ducts - the traction force depends on this.

Channel inputs should be masked.

If you only need, then install one duct. If you want a supply and exhaust system, lay two independent air ducts: one will supply fresh air, and the other will leave exhaust air. There is another option - to provide each room with an individual air duct.

Be careful when installing equipment to avoid damaging wiring, heating and water pipes.

Stage 3: check system health

To check the efficiency of air exchange in a wooden house there is an anemometer. It is a device that measures the speed of gas movement. The price of a household anemometer starts from 1,500 rubles.

If you want to get by with the tools at hand, take a paper napkin or sheet of paper and bring it up to the grille of the exhaust outlet. When the wall extractor is in operation, the sheet or napkin will be pulled towards the canal mouth.

Do not test the efficiency of ventilation ducts with a match, candle or lighter - there may be a risk of fire.

When operating the equipment, pay attention to whether there is mold or dampness on the walls. Perform regular system maintenance.

Now let's talk about the types of ventilation.

This type of ventilation means that the air moves from the street to the house in a natural way. The inflow is through open windows or doors, and the outflow is through the air ducts. Air movement is influenced by natural conditions:

• Temperature difference... Cold air is heavier than warm air, so the coolness of the street, "flown in" through the window, remains in the room, and warm exhaust air rises up to the exhaust duct.
• Difference in atmospheric pressure... The pressure on the ground is higher than on the roof. The air just moves from the high-pressure zone to the low-pressure zone, therefore it tends upward through the duct. The higher we position the end of the exhaust duct, the greater the pressure drops and the more intensive the air exchange will be.
• Wind speed - it increases traction.

For it is recommended to install a separate ventilation duct in each room. If only one duct is installed, then under the influence of back draft, the exhaust air with all unpleasant odors can return back to the rooms.

It is desirable to equip the channels with valves or a plug - they regulate the air flow rate.

Pros:

• Cheap. The cost of air ducts starts from one hundred rubles, and an open window is generally free 🙂
• Just. You can lay the exhaust air ducts with your own hands with a little preparation and following the recommendations.

Minuses:

• Unreliable. Nature will not always be on your side. Natural air exchange almost stops in the warm season, since there is no temperature difference outside and in the house. In the cold season, there will be large heat losses, and you will have to spend money on heating.
• Inconvenient. It is not always possible to open windows - noise or street dust, dirt can interfere. Insects enter through the air ducts and precipitation penetrates.
• Ineffective. The exhaust ducts may not have enough time to remove all the exhaust air. To increase the extraction power, an electric fan can be installed at the mouth of the exhaust duct - but then it will no longer be passive ventilation.

In a forced exhaust system, as in a passive one, the exhaust air is removed through the ventilation ducts, but with the help of an electric fan. Fresh air comes in the old fashioned way - naturally.

Pros:

• Effectively. With a fan, air leaves a wooden house much faster than without it.
• Conveniently. Most fans are power adjustable, so it is easy to control the air flow rate.

Minuses:

• There is no fresh air. The inflow is either absent or small.

Forced ventilation

As the name suggests, it provides fresh air. Since the "used" air is forced out of the wooden house by fresh air, the inflow must be organized, otherwise the exhaust will be ineffective.

It can be installed as for a hood, but there are also more compact and cheaper options -. Ventilators include window and wall valves, breathers and other devices.

Pros:

• Freshly. When fresh air is constantly supplied to us, we feel more cheerful.
• Purely. Ventilation systems are often equipped. Different filters clean different contaminants: for example, there are three filters in the breather - from dust, allergens and harmful gases.
• Functionally. The package of the ventilation system may include a heater, a humidifier, a silencer and other useful options.

Minuses:

• Some devices, such as window valves, have low performance: they carry enough fresh air for a maximum of one person. It is best to use a breather to ensure you get enough fresh air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

The combined ventilation system is aimed at both inflow and outflow. Here it is important to maintain a balance of performance: how much air enters a wooden house, so much should come out.

It is worth saying that when arranging ventilation systems, they often acquire ground heat exchanger... Its air duct is laid in the ground at a depth of 1.5–2 m - where the temperature of the soil remains 8–10 ° С all year round. One of the ends of the pipe is connected to the supply channel, and the other is brought out to the ground. In winter, the air passes through a ground heat exchanger and heats up, and in summer it cools. With such a heat exchanger, heating and air conditioning costs are reduced.

The ground heat exchanger has a disadvantage: the smaller the temperature difference, the lower its efficiency. Therefore, the device is almost never used in spring and autumn.

Some systems are equipped with a built-in recuperation unit. In winter, it warms up the incoming air due to the waste heat. In summer, the recuperator is paired with an air conditioner and, conversely, cools the air. The streams are not mixed.

Pros:

• purely;
• freshly;
• functional;
• efficiently.

Minuses:

• high price;
• complex installation - you cannot do without specialists;
• if the power is cut off, the equipment stops working.

The approximate cost of ventilation in a wooden house

Basically, companies calculate the price of equipment based on the area of \u200b\u200ba wooden house - from 2,500 rubles per square meter.

• Forced supply system with a passive exhaust hood - 150,000 rubles;
• Supply and exhaust system with a recuperator - 250,000 rubles;
• Supply and exhaust system with humidification / dehumidification and cooling / heating sections - 350,000 rubles;
• Air ducts separately are much cheaper: a half-meter section of galvanized steel pipe with a diameter of 16 cm costs 150 rubles, and the same piece, but made of plastic, costs 180 rubles;
• Breezer - from 23,990 rubles. One breather ventilates one room, so the total cost depends on the number of rooms.

Ventilation: special cases

Roof of a wooden house

Without air exchange, the roof will gradually collapse. On a cold roof, condensation forms on contact with warm air. Therefore, treat the roof with waterproofing materials and make small ventilation holes at the roof ridge.

The space under the roof also needs to be ventilated. If there is an additional room in the attic, then the same ventilation duct is needed as in other rooms. If the attic is uninhabited, there will be enough holes in the roof.

Underground

Stagnation of air under the floor of a wooden house leads to the formation of fungus, mold and rotting of wooden structures. Therefore, small air vents are left in the foundation, and air intake holes are made under the baseboards - with their help, the space under the floor is ventilated. In winter, it is better to close the air vents in the foundation: in cold weather, the underground floor can become covered with frost or condensation. Equip all openings with decorative rodent bars.

Bathroom

The tree absorbs moisture well, which is why it becomes moldy and rotting. Passive ventilation in the bathroom is not enough, it is better to install forced ventilation. The removal of exhaust air from the bathroom and living quarters must be organized separately, otherwise unpleasant odors will spread through the wooden house when a failure occurs. If you are installing an exhaust fan in the bathroom, you can connect it to a light switch for convenience.

Kitchen

The air in the kitchen is saturated with odors, soot and moisture, so special attention should be paid. Install it directly above the stove. The hood should be at least 10 cm wider than the slab and positioned at a height of 0.7–1 m from the slab.

Basement

It is from the basement that it is desirable to install the ventilation system. The supply air duct must be installed in the lower part of the room, and the exhaust air duct under the ceiling. If the basement is small and its height is less than two meters, you can do without air ducts. In this case, vents are made on two opposite walls through which air enters. Small ventilation openings must be laid during construction.

We wish you a healthy and happy life in your wooden house!

Ventilation in a private wooden house is as necessary as in any other building. It has its own nuances associated with the characteristics of wood as a natural, natural material. The design and installation of a high-quality air exchange device must be carried out at the initial stage of construction. Let's take a closer look at why ventilation in a wooden house is necessary.

Ventilation in a private wooden house

The need to equip a wooden structure with an air circulation installation is due to the following factors:

• Hygroscopicity of wood. It is able to quickly absorb moisture from the environment. Maintaining an optimal moisture level with the help of a high-quality ventilation installation will ensure a long life for wooden structures, save them from the appearance of fungus, mold, microorganisms. Overdried or moisture-saturated material is very susceptible to deformation and destruction.
• The ability of wood to "breathe" is higher compared to brick, concrete, and other building materials. But air does not pass through the wood. Otherwise, in winter, the heat would go outside. The change of air masses inside such a structure will not occur independently without the proper organization of a well-established air exchange by a person.
• Maintaining optimal temperature conditions. Heating a house from a bar in winter can become energy-consuming. High-quality ventilation equipment not only changes air masses, but also allows you to save on heating due to heat, for example, from the earth or exhaust air flow.
• Human waste products. Wood is not able to utilize everything that a person produces in the process of life (carbon dioxide, heat radiation, moisture release, etc.).

Types of air exchange inside a wooden cottage

A private cottage made of wood provides the ability to organize the following ventilation systems:

• Natural. It is organized with the help of natural air mass, which independently enters the room through open windows, doors and displaces the spent lighter air flow through the ventilation ducts.
• Forced:
  - exhaust (special equipment removes the spent mass outside);
  - supply (the devices pump a fresh stream from the outside into the structure);
  - supply and exhaust (a unit with air ducts connected to it for the removal / supply of the exhaust / fresh air flow).
• Mixed ventilation system.

Natural ventilation in a wooden house

Design of natural ventilation in a wooden house is carried out at the planning stage of its construction. It is organized with the help of vertical air ducts that remove exhaust air from the premises upward outside the structure. As a rule, such channels ensure its outflow from the bathing rooms, toilets, dressing rooms and other rooms devoid of constant ventilation.

The circulation inside the ventilation ducts is maintained by the created pressure difference between the inlet and outlet. The higher the outlet of the ventilation duct is, the greater the pressure - the air mass is removed faster.

Natural ventilation scheme at home

The inner surface of the air ducts should be as smooth as possible, with the same cross-section, in order to exclude the accumulation of dust and ensure an unobstructed air flow. The channels must be wide enough to circulate the required volume.

The circulation of natural ventilation is carried out due to the flow of air from the outside through leaks in window / door openings, through open vents / windows / doors, and then displacing the waste through the air ducts. If the tightness of structures does not contribute to the natural change of air flows, it is necessary to consider a forced ventilation system.

Pros and cons of natural ventilation

Advantages:

• low cost;
• the possibility of self-assembly.

Disadvantages:

• low efficiency;
• the need for additional removal of exhaust air from the kitchen, bathrooms;
• heat loss during the cold season;
• sound insulation decreases;
• along with the air flow, dust, insects get inside;
• dependence on atmospheric conditions;
• impossibility of performance adjustment.

Exhaust ventilation method

Forced ventilation in a wooden house using exhaust mechanisms is a system of air ducts through which the exhaust air flow is removed through the ventilation shaft to the outside. Old air is forced out of the room, fresh air comes naturally. In this case, a fresh inflow must be provided in the same volume as the diverted one. To improve air exchange, fans are installed that increase the rate of removal of contaminated air masses.

Exhaust ventilation system at home

Operating conditions:

• the warm waste stream is located above the fresh cold one;
• supply sources are located below the branch ducts.

Advantages of exhaust ventilation:

• replacement of spent air masses with fresh ones is more effective than with natural circulation of flows;
• environmental friendliness of the materials used;
• the ability to control the strength and speed of exhaust air removal.

Disadvantages:

• low efficiency;
• large heat loss.

Supply ventilation of a wooden house

Forced ventilation in a wooden house of a supply nature is represented by various window valves, wall ventilators that pump air from the outside. The spent waste leaves independently through the ventilation ducts under supply pressure.

Advantages:

• constant supply of fresh air;
• different degrees of cleaning the air intake from dust, debris, etc.

Disadvantages:

• the cold stream from the street in winter has to be additionally heated, which leads to energy costs;
• exhaust air does not have time to give up its heat and is removed from the house;
• insufficient tightness of the connection between the ventilators and the wall.

Supply and exhaust air exchange

The required air exchange inside the wooden structure will help to organize the device for forced supply and exhaust ventilation. It consists of air ducts equipped with fans, air cleaning filters, a heat recuperator, and an automatic control unit.

The ventilation scheme in a wooden house looks like this. The atmospheric flow from the street passes through the filtration system. With the help of fans, it moves through the duct, then it is fed into the rooms. The exhaust air is led out through the other air ducts. If the air handling unit is equipped with a heat recuperator, the incoming air is heated by the heat removed (it is possible to return up to 80% of the heat). In this case, the flows are most often not mixed (depending on the model of the recuperator). The air supply remains clean.

The inflow inside the building from a bar can be carried out through a ground heat exchanger. One end of the duct is located above the ground, the other is supplied to the ventilation unit. The pipe is laid to a depth of 1.5-2 m. In winter, the warmth of the ground will warm the incoming air. In summer, the supply can be cooled. In order for the air flow to warm up / cool down, the length of the duct under the ground must be at least 15 m.

Supply and exhaust ventilation scheme in the house

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of supply and exhaust air exchange:

• constantly fresh air (with closed windows);
• significant savings in thermal energy in the cold season (up to 25%);
• air exchange parameters control;
• maintaining the optimum temperature for wood construction;
• maintaining an optimal microclimate;
• high-quality filtration of the supplied air flow;
• correct air exchange prolongs the life of a log cottage;
• absence of mold, mildew;
• removal of a large amount of dust, moisture, excess heat (up to 98%);
• the installation of the duct is hidden, it is carried out in the space between the ceiling.

Cons of the device:

• high cost compared to a natural ventilation device;
• installation and installation is carried out by specialists;
• if there is a temporary lack of electricity, the supply and exhaust circulation stops working;
• periodic service of the system;
• purchase of noise-insulating materials to reduce the level of operating noise of equipment;
• a separate room for installing equipment (attic, basement).

Separately about ventilation of the roof, cottage floor made of wood

Roof

Do not forget about the ventilation of the attic, roof space. It is very important to properly organize high-quality air exchange here with the help of ventilation holes.

Roof ventilation scheme in a wooden house

The air flow, warmed by the heat of the entire structure, rises. In contact with cold roofing structures, materials, it inevitably forms condensation. Without sufficient air exchange, the roofing space will gradually rot, collapse under the influence of collecting moisture.

That is why the rafters are impregnated with waterproofing materials during the construction phase. Nevertheless, the arrangement of high-quality ventilation of the roof is necessary to maintain its integrity for a long time. The scheme of natural ventilation in the roof is quite simple. To do this, it is enough to equip the roof with dormer windows, ridge vents. In this case, the ventilation holes will be effective only when located at the very ridge of the roof.

Effective floor ventilation is also an important aspect of the overall air exchange of a timber structure. It is impossible to allow stagnation of air under the floor, which can lead to the formation of condensation, the appearance of mold, as a result - rotting of wood structures.

To prevent the destructive effect of moisture, small ventilation openings are left inside the foundation. Air intake openings are arranged under the skirting boards. The air flow passing through the vents and air intakes will ventilate the space under the floor, keeping them dry.

With the onset of cold weather, the air vents in the foundation are closed, otherwise the cold stream from the street in contact with the heat of the building will condense. They are always open in summer. It should be remembered that all ventilation openings must be equipped with decorative rodent-proof grilles.

A wooden cottage, like any other building, needs a correct, high-quality, efficient ventilation system. This will ensure its long service life, make living inside it comfortable. The arrangement of the air exchange system is carried out at the construction stage. A professionally planned and well-organized ventilation scheme in a wooden house will avoid many unpleasant problems.

The walls of buildings made of natural wood retain forest aromas that have a beneficial effect on humans. Effective ventilation in a house made of timber creates the necessary conditions for a good rest.

In older buildings made of natural wood, air flows were moved by the heat generated by the stoves. Natural ventilation in a wooden house was ensured by the presence of cracks.

The need to arrange ventilation in buildings made of beams

Modern timber buildings differ from those erected earlier in the absence of gaps between the joints in the walls. First of all, builders take care of keeping warm and avoiding drafts.

due to the tight fit of the parts, the houses become practically airtight

Do you need ventilation in a wooden house? A similar question is often asked by homeowners of private buildings. Without an influx of fresh air, stagnation of air flows in the space of the dwelling is observed. Wooden buildings need ventilation equipment.

The choice of a suitable system (forced or natural) is made by the owners, since they are most familiar with the specific conditions of stay in their home.

Ventilation device in wooden houses

To successfully equip ventilation in a wooden house on your own, you need to acquire the usual tools for plumbing and carpentry. Installation activities consist of the following steps:

1. Design.
2. Arrangement of ventilation ducts.
3. Installation of air ducts according to the plan.
4. Checking the system for operability.
5. Elimination of the identified problems.

Design features of the ventilation system

From the very beginning, a project is being developed by hand. This event is held in accordance with the requirements of building codes and taking into account the location of the rooms.

Ensuring air exchange rates in the main rooms:

• kitchen with gas stove - 70 m³ / hour;
• kitchen with electric stove - 50 m³ / hour;
• bathroom - 50 m³ / hour;
• living room - 30 m³ / hour;
• bathroom - 30 m³ / hour;
• utility room - 15 m³ / hour.

Quality requires an accurate, well-founded design.

a competent drawing serves as the basis for determining the parameters of the ventilation system, since it takes into account the layout of a particular house

At this stage, the correct marking of the location of the system elements is required. To carry out a responsible task, you can invite a professional designer.

Installation of natural ventilation

With natural ventilation, the warmest masses rise upward through special channels located vertically. How to make ventilation with your own hands? Equipping a naturally occurring system is the cheapest but most effective task and is easy to do on your own.

The complex of works starts from the basement, as there is an inflow of fresh outside air.

during construction, the walls of the house are equipped with special small holes for the passage of air flows

For better draft, fresh air is supplied from the north side. The entrance to the supply channel is made at the level of the basement floor.

Exhaust duct arrangement

Full-fledged natural ventilation in a wooden house with your own hands inside the premises is provided by cracks specially left under the interior doors, equal to 1.5–2 cm. Or by installing door ventilation grilles. Warm air is randomly directed to the exhaust ducts. In each room in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling it is necessary to equip a channel entrance.

holes in the wall are masked with decorative grilles

Exhaust duct outlets must be installed above the roof. Pass-through air ducts are equipped with special plugs or valves to regulate the rate of air exchange.

To avoid the backdraft effect during strong gusts of wind, ventilation in a wooden house involves the installation of separate ventilation ducts for each room. This means that the kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom must be equipped with their own channels so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate the living quarters. The attic residential floor is equipped with the same channels for full ventilation. Attics that are not intended for housing are ventilated through holes that are made in the roof.

Traction force in the ventilation system of a wooden house

Ventilation in a private wooden house and its draft depends not only on the wind, but also on other factors:

1. Departure of the ventilation pipe above the roof ridge.
2. Cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe inner part of the channel.
3. The number of bends and turns.
4. The quality of the thermal insulation of the system.

The best result is achieved with a minimum number of obstacles in the form of: roughness, bends, tapering, etc.

In a hot period in a log house, the value of the traction force approaches zero due to a slight temperature difference in the lower and upper layers of the ventilation duct. In such conditions, the best solution for ventilating the room would be to use forced ventilation or simply open windows.

Materials for ventilation shafts

Small wooden cottages do not need to be finished with bricks, since the surface of the inner channel will have unnecessary roughness, where dust will begin to accumulate. In a small private house, it is recommended to use channel blocks made of smooth metal or plastic.

Forced ventilation

With natural air movement, the internal atmosphere of the room does not always have time to refresh itself. Homeowners often find it necessary to increase ventilation in a wooden house.

in order to increase productivity, the existing ventilation system can be supplemented with an extractor hood

The hood in a wooden house will improve if you install this device in front of the entrance to the exhaust duct in the room where it is necessary to increase the rate of air exchange (bathroom, kitchen).

Fan requirements:

1. Fan dimensions must match the duct diameter for easy installation
2. The power of the device must be sufficient to ensure effective ventilation.

If there is a lack of fan power, an additional pumping device is installed.

It is not recommended to combine forced extractors from different rooms into one ventilation duct for the same reasons as with natural ventilation.

Installation of ventilation in shower cabins

To improve the movement of air masses in a bathroom or shower stall, the doors are hung with a bottom gap of about five centimeters, for this purpose, forced ventilation is also used. Ventilation of a shower cabin in a wooden house is installed both above the ceiling and in the open. With direct ventilation of the room, the system turns on after a person leaves the booth so as not to catch a cold.

Installation of supply ventilation in a wooden house

For the purpose of amplification, enhanced supply ventilation is used. With the help of this system, the most efficient air exchange is carried out in all rooms, both in the living area and in the basements and in the attic.

Supply ventilation in a log house performs the following functions:

• outdoor air intake;
• dust removal by air filtration;
• heating of incoming air masses;
• removal of exhaust air from the premises.

Supply ventilation equipment

The trading network has a wide range of ventilation equipment for natural wood houses. To make the right choice, you need to consult with experts before purchasing supply ventilation.

A complete set of equipment consists of the following elements:

1. Duct fan.
2. Electric heater for heating cold winter air.
3. A device for humidifying dry air streams.
4. Fan vibration damper.
5. A set of filters for air purification.

A modern supply ventilation system in a wooden house is equipped with automation for ease of monitoring and control.

Place of installation of distribution equipment

The attic space of a private house is the most preferred place for installing equipment. In order to avoid the harmful effects of vibrations on the floors, the working units are installed on special low stands. During installation, the airways are fixed under the ceiling and inside the floors.

Checking system performance

Each wooden house, due to the special properties of the building material used, obliges to carefully approach the quality of the arrangement of any ventilation systems, both in residential and office premises. Regardless of the type of ventilation that is installed in the log house, its action must be effective.

A refined check of the quality of the system's operation is carried out using a special apparatus - an anemometer. The ventilation of a wooden house can also be checked using improvised household tools. A paper napkin, brought up to the ceiling exhaust hole, should rush to the grate.

Ventilation in a wooden house is not a complicated undertaking. The most important and difficult stage is the design of the system and the calculation of the necessary elements. These works are recommended to be performed with the help of specialists.