Do-it-yourself insulation of the inner wall of the loggia. Insulation of a balcony and loggia - materials, technologies and advice Phased insulation of a loggia

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (foundation laying, wall construction, roof construction, etc.). Internal construction work (laying of internal communications, rough and final finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer technology, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I did not dwell on the coverage of the question of how best to insulate the loggia from the inside. But the correct choice of heat-insulating material is the key to the effectiveness of the measures taken.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions below will tell you how to choose yourself suitable material for insulation.

Requirements for heaters

Before I tell you how to insulate the loggia inside with my own hands, I want to give a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what is advisable to pay attention to:

1. Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, for thermal insulation of the room (be it a separate loggia or combined with the main room), you will have to use a smaller layer of material. This means that more usable area of \u200b\u200bthe room will be saved.
2. Ease of installation. The more complicated the procedure for installing the heat-insulating material you have chosen, the more time-consuming and laborious the repair process, especially independent one, will be. However, I have already written a lot on how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside. If you need it, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
3. Strength. It is better to choose insulation that tolerates external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic) well. In this case, the subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
4. Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inward insulating cake... In addition, air vapor, which is formed as a result of human activity, can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not susceptible to biocorrosion - mold, fungus and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
5. Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulation materials that have an optimal ratio of cost and performance. And then you yourself choose what material is better for insulation.

Characteristics of certain types of insulation

So, let's get down to the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - expanded polystyrene or, as it is popularly called, foam.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is a material that is 98% air, enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. It turns out a kind of solid foam in the sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia with it, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I'll tell you briefly about the main technical characteristics of the material:

1. Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W / (m * K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The exact value depends on how dense the foam you get for the job.

I will immediately warn you. Don't confuse foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are related, their specifications differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

1. Water vapor permeability and water absorption.Conventional building foam prevents air from penetrating through the insulation layer.

Therefore, the insulation of the loggia with foam from the inside requires additional measures to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation is different with water absorption. On contact with liquid, the foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-retaining properties do not deteriorate much from this, therefore, it is not necessary to very carefully waterproof the insulating layer.

1. Strength. For insulation, construction foams are used that meet the requirements of DIN under number 7726 and are classified as "hard". That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when a dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you are using foam for internal insulation loggias, you immediately need to decide how to decorate the inside after insulation. You need to choose a method of decorative finishing that would at the same time protect the insulating layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of the foam depends largely on its density. But with an increase in density, the heat-retaining properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam for internal insulation is 25. You can buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is an unjustified waste of money.

1. Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, mineral fertilizers... It is chemically neutral in contact with bituminous resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalt.

However, I myself saw how the foam "melts" when some varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances hit it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, you should take care of its careful protection.

1. Sound absorption. If you want the insulation layer to play the role of a sound insulator at the same time, then with foam you will be disappointed. It is able to protect a little only from impact noise, and even then, if you put 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Other noises that are transmitted through the air are not muffled by foam. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves are not absorbed.

1. Antiseptic and environmental friendliness. In 2004, research by scientists from the United States finally proved that biological life on the surface of expanded polystyrene is impossible. Therefore, you do not need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and mildew.

As for the issues of environmental protection (for some, this is very important), everything is fine here too, since the use of freon, which is harmful to the ozone layer of the planet, was abandoned in the production of insulation. In addition, the foam itself serves for a long time without losing its operational properties. Moreover, regardless of the number of cycles of freezing and thawing.

However, the insulation in question is prone to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process is. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:

• benzene;
• toluene;
• formaldehyde;
• methyl alcohol;
• acetophenone and so on.

But wood is also treated with various chemicals during the construction of houses, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

1. Fire safety. According to the current Russian standards (GOST under the number 30224-94), foamed plastics belong to the third and fourth class of flammability. In other words, they are very dangerous when viewed from this point of view.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to what standards the expanded polystyrene is certified by. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most flammable material is wood, but they do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed when the foam is ignited.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to the certificates issued based on the results of complex research. And buy polystyrene that contains fire retardants (it is marked with the letter "C"). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just takes a longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite it.

In any case, I can say that despite the various fire retardants and other additives in the foam, it continues to be a fairly flammable material. Therefore, if you are going to arrange a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, fire retardants evaporate over time.

1. Lifetime.Subject to the technology of installation of polystyrene (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material), it will retain its operational properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you do not make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, it is the wrong choice of a warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam plate 30 cm thick, then the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not so, because thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, slabs 5 cm thick or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a dwelling. Among other things, this installation method allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted in a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I kind of summarize everything that has been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy foam plastic to insulate their loggia:

1. For internal insulation, I advise you to purchase polystyrene foam with the PSB-S marking with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is suitable only for packaging household appliances, but not for construction.
2. Sometimes manufacturers mark the foam with the number "40", which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the title, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the legislation, must be placed on the package or provided separately at the request of the buyer.
3. Buy foam made by extrusion (should be specified in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
4. To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece from it. If in the place of the break you see balls, which, moreover, are easily separated, then in front of you packing material... Polyfoam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedrons, along which a break occurs.
5. If we talk about specific manufacturers, then I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNicol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

I recently used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And I chose for work the material of a domestic manufacturer - penoplex. Therefore, I will tell you about him in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States of America about half a century ago. The essence technological process is as follows: polystyrene foam granules are placed in a chamber where they are melted under the influence of high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto a conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, the so-called foams are used, that is, substances that, when heated, emit gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene strip is cut into slabs and packed in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for the penoplex, it consists of the following components:

• polystyrene;
• ground perlite;
• sodium bicarbonate;
• lemon acid;
• barium stearate;
• tetrabromparaxylene.

The use of foam foams in the production of foam gives the latter a porous structure, like that of foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly interconnected into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are insulated from each other, so they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this entire structure has greater strength than classic expanded polystyrene (foam).

The exact technical characteristics of penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, on the market building materials several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam are presented, which differ in characteristics and dimensions of the plates. Accordingly, they must be used to insulate different structures.

If you are not too versed in the above numbers, I will decipher some of the parameters:

1. Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex, this indicator is approximately 0.03 W / (m * K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing heaters. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using foam, it is not necessary to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
2. Hygroscopicity. In contact with water or humid air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the upper layers of the insulation are impregnated, which has a positive effect on the integrity of the material.
3. Water vapor permeability. The material does not allow moisture vapor dissolved in the air to pass through itself well. Therefore, surfaces finished with foam are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
4. Compression resistance. This parameter is at a height, which is achieved due to the homogeneous structure of the foam. Therefore, it can be used to insulate floors on a loggia (laying insulation under a cement screed). If you apply significant force to the insulation, a dent with a depth of no more than 1 mm can form on the surface.
5. Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, during operation it emits a small amount of chemical compounds that can be hazardous to health.
6. Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freeze and thaw cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And even more inside the loggia.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates exposure to aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it breaks down on contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehydes, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a decorative finish.

Marking methods

There are several types of Penoplex extruded polystyrene foam on sale. To make it easier for you to choose a suitable variety, I will give the following table.

Marking	Scope of application
Penoplex 31	It is used for the insulation of industrial containers with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C	The material, which, like the previous one, is not highly durable, therefore it can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish when ignited.
Penoplex 35	A material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of a loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on the walls and ceiling, but also on the floor under the cement screed.
Penoplex 45	Very durable and moisture resistant insulation. It is used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that are subject to high static and dynamic loads. On the loggia, it can be used for floor insulation.
Penoplex 45C	A self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous line of the table. It is mainly used for thermal insulation of industrial and commercial buildings.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex has its own names. I will give a detailed description of each brand in the following table.

Name	Density, kg / cubic meter	Appointment
Wall	25-32	It is used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and basements located above the ground level.
Foundation	29-33	It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of foam is very durable and is able to withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the excavation.
Roof	28-33	It is used for insulation of attic rooms. The insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but is fragile, therefore it is better not to use it in those places where it will be subject to a constant load.
Comfort	25-35	The material is ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be operated in rooms with high air humidity.

If you ask my opinion, I would advise you to use Penoplex Comfort plates 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged crate.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from a volcanic mineral - basalt. It is basalt wool that is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and operational properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the vicinity.

Nowadays basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a smelting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. Then the mixture enters the drum, where it is blown with a stream of air and rotates. The result is fibers 7 microns thick and about 5 cm long.

After that, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I'll tell you the most important thing about this insulation:

1. Thermal conductivity.According to this indicator, cotton wool, although it does not overtake penoplex, is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W / (K * m).

So that you understand what is at stake, I will compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks 1 m 20 cm thick. Silicate brick even more will be needed - 2 meters. As for the wall made of wood, then its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

1. Water absorption.Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate into the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties, after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor), increase their coefficient of thermal conductivity, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take just basalt wool, and not from glass fibers. Don't be confused. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

1. Water vapor permeability.The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the enclosing structures. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is taken out and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such a heater, a microclimate, comfortable for living, will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

1. Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high melting point, the thermal insulation material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used to insulate engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which is very hot during operation.

The material fully meets the requirements of GOST under number 30244 and SNiP under number 21-01-97. It does not have any restrictions on the insulation of residential premises.

1. Soundproofing properties.Unlike expanded polystyrene, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are randomly located.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts out noise from the street, but also reduces the reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

1. Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of basalt wool. Although it is less than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction works, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically during the formation of mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength from 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this indicator does not decrease depending on the operating time.

Nevertheless, it is impossible to install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend equipping a crate, on which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova), which are specifically designed for floor insulation under cement screed.

1. Biological and chemical activity.The material does not react with chemicals and does not corrode metal parts. In addition, mold and fungus do not start inside the insulation layer and on its surface, insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia in the country. Unlike foam, which mice love to chew.

1. Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers stick together with phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to assure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of basalt wool production. But even at the stage of material production, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during work, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs.

Material disadvantages

So that you don't get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for insulating a loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

• high cost of insulation;
• the presence of seams in the insulating layer, which make it leaky;
• the possibility of the formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers in the process of working with it;
• high vapor permeability coefficient, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all the information you need to choose the right insulation for the thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can see the video in this article.

The balcony is the most vulnerable room in the apartment, which often suffers from severe frost and wind. And if earlier it often served as a kind of storage room, storing all the necessary (and often even unnecessary) things, nowadays many people turn the loggia into a full-fledged room.

The only difficulty that residents face is that it is almost impossible to be on the balcony in winter - frost and strong wind create a beautiful picture outside the window, but a cold atmosphere on the loggia. However, this problem can be prevented today. A huge amount of thermal insulation materials make it easy and quick to insulate the balcony with your own hands.

Preparation for the insulation of the balcony

In any repair or construction process, it all starts with the preparation of surfaces and territory. Therefore, before how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, you have to get rid of all the junk that is there. By the way, the things that you still plan to leave afterwards also need to be transferred to another room.

After the balcony is completely cleared of unnecessary things, you need to completely inspect the room. Firstly, it is important to understand which parts of the loggia require more thorough insulation. In addition, you need to pay attention to cracks and chips that allow cold air to pass through.

Important! Some balconies are quite small. And the thermal insulation material takes up the space of the room. In this case, it is better to immediately identify the so-called "cold" and "warm" zones of the loggia and insulate only those that are more exposed to frost and wind.

The balcony parapet especially needs insulation

Right now, it is desirable to get rid of significant defects on surfaces. You can fill large gaps with putty or polyurethane foam.

At the same stage, you should decide on the type of insulation for the balcony and stock up on all the necessary tools... We will talk about thermal insulation materials a little later. Now let's look at what tools you need in order to insulate the balcony.

Balcony Insulation Tools

Do-it-yourself balcony insulation is a fairly simple and straightforward process. The main thing is to understand the sequence of work and stock up on the necessary tools. These include the following basic materials:

1. Insulation in the required amount (the calculation is carried out in accordance with the number of layers and the area of \u200b\u200bthe balcony).
2. Cladding material for exterior decoration.
3. Polyurethane foam.
4. Waterproofing materials.
5. Adhesive mixtures.
6. Wooden or metal beams (for the frame).
7. Dowels, screws, nails of different sizes.
8. Metallized adhesive tape for sealing joints.

In some specific cases, you may also need:

• drill;
• puncher;
• scissors;
• hammer;
• building level;
• rollers;
• spatulas, etc.

Everything here will depend on finishing loggias.

Restrictions on balcony insulation

Since the process of insulating a balcony is highly complex, in order to carry it out, you will need to obtain permits from some authorities. After all, some methods can greatly increase the load on the building itself. As a rule, you should contact the government agencies involved in housing redevelopment to obtain confirmation.

Also, do not forget that insulating a loggia is a rather noisy process. Therefore, you better warn your neighbors about the upcoming renovation worksoh. This will help to avoid many misunderstandings in the future.

However, even after obtaining permission, you cannot dispose of the balcony as you want. There are some prohibitions that apply to the insulation of the loggia. So, for example, you cannot:

1. Clean up load-bearing walls and partitions.
2. Install water heating on the balcony.
3. Turn the balcony into a bathroom (due to the lack of necessary pipes in the loggia). Organizing the kitchen on the balcony is a more realistic solution. However, it requires additional permissions.
4. Change the height of the ceiling on the balcony.
5. Violate the original architectural appearance of the building.

The better to insulate the balcony: the main materials for insulation

Today there are a huge number of options than to insulate the balcony from the inside. The choice of one or another option may depend on many factors:

1. The amount you are willing to spend on insulation.
2. Climate.
3. Building type.
4. Your personal preference.
5. Material resistance to frost, wind, moisture.

One way or another, before proceeding with the insulation of the loggia, it is important to study in detail all popular materials. This is the only way you can choose the option that suits you perfectly. We suggest you familiarize yourself with the most common heaters.

It is made of clay, therefore it is considered an environmentally friendly and safe material. Expanded clay is a small and lightweight porous granules. A similar weight and structure of the material is achieved thanks to a special clay firing technology. The raw materials are first heated to about 1000 degrees, as a result of which voids are formed inside, providing heat and sound insulation. Expanded clay is used to insulate walls, floors, ceilings or even the foundation of a country house.

Mineral wool

The most common insulation for walls and floors. Outwardly, it resembles a thick canvas, which consists of many molecules chaotically intertwined with each other. The raw material for mineral wool is glass, rocks or slag. In order for the fibers to reliably connect with each other, they are impregnated with special mixtures based on oils and alcohol. The mineral wool itself is divided into several other types:

• glass wool (consists of glass, stove and limestone);
• stone wool (made from basalt rocks);
• slag wool (produced from blast furnace slag).

Styrofoam

Perhaps the lightest insulation material. It is a foamed mass, which is more than 90% filled with air. It is thanks to this technology that it is possible to achieve a good result and insulate the balcony with high quality. The popularity of polystyrene as insulation is also due to the large selection of materials. It is divided into the following categories:

• sheet;
• foam in balls;
• extruded polystyrene foam (which we will talk about a little later);
• liquid foam;
• foam formwork.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Today, many people prefer to insulate the balcony with expanded polystyrene. This material is a subspecies of polystyrene and is also characterized by low weight and good thermal insulation properties. Comparing polystyrene and expanded polystyrene, it can be noted that the materials have both common features and some differences. For example, the texture of the latter is not granular, but smoother.

Polyurethane foam

The basis for polyurethane foam is a subspecies of plastic, which has a foamed structure. Like some previous insulation, this material is 90% gaseous substance, which is filled with all its cells. The use of various technologies has helped to create several types of polyurethane:

1. Elastic (in other words - foam rubber), which fills sofas and armchairs, and is also used for the manufacture of washcloths, shoe linings, etc.
2. Hard - is actively used for heat and sound insulation at home.

Penofol

It is one of the most innovative balcony heaters. This material consists of several layers:

1. Self-extinguishing foamed polyethylene.
2. Aluminum foil.

Unlike previous heaters, penofol is not able to absorb heat. Thanks to the foil, it works on a different principle, namely, it reflects thermal radiation. The material, in turn, is divided into several types:

1. Type "A" - the foil is on one side of the insulation.
2. Type "B" - with foil on both sides.
3. Type "C" - with a special self-adhesive insert.

Heaters for the balcony - comparative table

As you can see, there are a lot of materials for balcony insulation. To determine which option is right for you, we recommend comparing all of the above categories:

HEATER TYPE	ADVANTAGES	LIMITATIONS
	Affordable cost. Long service life. Resistant to mold and mildew. The ability to take the required form. Low weight.	Increased moisture permeability. Quite complex material setup. Expanded clay is used primarily for floor insulation and is not suitable for other surfaces.
Minvata	Low level of thermal conductivity. Compliance with all fire safety standards. It does not lend itself to influence (deformation) during sudden temperature changes, heating and cooling. Resistant to chemical and mechanical damage. Water vapor permeability. Easy to install.	Moisture permeability (which can be reduced using special water-repellent agents). Great weight.
Styrofoam	Low cost compared to other heaters. Light weight of the material. Good thermal insulation properties, allowing the use of a thinner insulation layer. Versatility (suitable for floor, ceiling and wall insulation). Long service life (up to 30 years). Resistance to the appearance of harmful microorganisms. Easy to install.	Release of toxic substances during combustion. Poor vapor barrier. Release of harmful substances even when high temperatures (applies to cheaper options). Absorbs moisture. Not resistant to mechanical and chemical damage. Attracts rodents (some even equip minks in foam).
Expanded polystyrene	Low vapor permeability. The strength of the material. Lack of water absorption, which allows the use of expanded polystyrene without preliminary waterproofing. Low thermal conductivity. Compliance with all fire safety requirements (non-flammability). Resistant to high and low temperatures. Environmental friendliness. Easy to install. Resistance to mechanical damage.	Poor vapor barrier. High material cost. Immunity to action sun rays (corrected by special processing of the material). Additional costs for arranging the frame or purchasing glue.
Polyurethane foam	Can be mounted on any material (concrete, metal, glass, wood, brick, etc.). Light weight that does not weigh down the surface. Able to significantly strengthen the surface. Resistant to sudden changes in temperature, extreme heat and frost. Compliance with all fire safety requirements. Thanks to the one-piece construction, no seams or joints appear on the surface.	Not resistant to sunlight. Although the material does not burn, it begins to smolder in an open fire. Therefore, you should not install polyurethane foam in rooms with a high risk of overheating or fire.
Penofol	Versatility. The material is used to insulate the walls of the floor and ceiling of the balcony. Plus, it is great for both indoor and outdoor use. Low vapor permeability. Provides high-quality sound insulation. Light weight and thin structure. Easy to install. Environmental friendliness. Compliance with all fire safety standards. Resistant to rodents.	Due to its high softness, penofol is not used when insulating walls under plaster. Some types of foam foam require special glue. It will not be able to protect against severe frosts and is installed mainly as an additional insulation.

Ceiling insulation

If you plan to insulate the balcony with your own hands, then it is best to start from the ceiling and move further from top to bottom. Of course, if the ceiling of your loggia is the floor of your neighbors, then the process of protecting the room from frost and wind is much easier. However, if the roof is independent, then a little effort should be made to insulate it.

For the best protection of the balcony from cold and wind, we recommend performing work in the following sequence:

1. Spraying or special soundproofing film.
2. Waterproofing the ceiling on the balcony. In this case, the most popular materials are PVC or polyester.
3. Special membrane that protects against wind. It freely allows the steam released from the insulation to pass through, however, it helps to completely isolate the ceiling from wind and drops, which can enter the room with it.
4. Anti-condensation material that protects the insulation from the formation of water droplets.
5. Frame (metal or wood of your choice). The lathing is optional. The insulation can be installed using special glue. The main thing is to make sure that the mixture does not contain toluene. For greater reliability, use dowels when fixing sheets.
6. Insulation for the balcony ceiling. We recommend you use polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. They provide good protection from the cold and are easy to install, which is especially important when insulating the balcony ceiling.
7. Vapor barrier for insulation. It does not allow water vapor to pass inside, which significantly increases the thermal insulation properties of the material.

We insulate the floor on the balcony

The initial stage of the balcony floor insulation is the installation of waterproofing on the surface. Polyethylene or penofol will perfectly cope with this role. Be sure to cover all the joints between the sheets with tape. This way you can be sure that the balcony is protected from moisture as much as possible.

Advice: In case you use one-sided foam foam (type "A"), install it with the reflective layer down.

Another popular option for waterproofing the balcony floor is bituminous mastic. However, do not forget that such material dries for about 24 hours.

After waterproofing, you should install a frame or, in another way, logs. For this, wood or metal is used. The main thing is to choose the highest quality material that can last for many years.

Advice: If you are installing wooden beams, make sure the moisture content does not exceed 12%. Also for that. To prevent the appearance of fungus, we recommend that you treat the beams with an antiseptic or a special primer.

The bars are laid at a distance equal to the width of one sheet of insulation. As for the height of the beams, it is usually 10-15 cm. To prevent gaps that appear between the logs and the wall of the balcony, ordinary foam is used.

After installing the lags, you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation. Make sure that there are not even the smallest gaps between the sheets (or slabs) and the frame. Otherwise, your work will not bring the desired result. In some cases, the insulation is stacked in several layers (for greater protection). Then it is important that the seams between the slabs are not in the same place. That is, you need to lay the material with a slight offset.

Wall insulation

In the process of insulating the floor on the balcony, it will not be superfluous to immediately take care of the walls. So, for example, making out a waterproofing layer, sheathe the entire room around the perimeter with it. This will greatly simplify your further work.

1. Create a batten with wooden beams. The distance between them and the width of each beam should be related to the dimensions of the insulation.
2. Install thermal insulation material. For walls, traditional options are most often chosen - mineral wool (or glass wool), polystyrene, polyurethane foam, penofol (or isolon). For greater reliability, we recommend combining several thermal insulation materials (for example, foam and mineral wool).
3. In the presence of cracks and large seams, polyurethane foam is used. With its help, you can reliably protect the balcony from cold and wind.
4. Do not forget to install a vapor barrier on the insulation.

Important! Most often, the wall that connects the balcony and the room (living room, kitchen, etc.) is insulated with one layer. At the same time, at least two layers of insulation should be installed on the external walls, or a denser thermal insulator should be used.

How to insulate windows on a balcony?

If you want to insulate the balcony from the inside with the highest quality, in no case should you forget about the windows. After all, even the highest quality insulation materials for walls, ceilings and floors will not be of any use if the wind blows through the cracks in the window opening.

If all this time your balcony has not been glazed, you should pay special attention to the wall that protects it from the street. The parapet (and this is what this wall is called) must be strong enough to withstand the frames and the glass unit. In some cases, it is better to additionally strengthen this part of the loggia. There are two options for strengthening the parapet:

1. Brick... The simplest method, which, however, is not particularly reliable and durable.
2. Reinforcement with steel rods... Use thick iron bars and cement. This method is a little more complicated than the previous one, but several times more reliable.

Before glazing the balcony, you must choose the material from which will be made window frames... Of course, the most popular today are PVC structures. However, some modern manufacturers make wooden or aluminum frames that are in no way inferior to plastic ones (unless they are more expensive).

Classic wooden frames are practically not airtight. Therefore, with their help, it will be impossible to insulate the balcony. Therefore, they are best used in areas with a warmer climate.

As for aluminum structures, they are able to retain heat much better than wood... In addition, they are also resistant to rust and corrosive processes. However, the most optimal option (if the criterion is the price-quality ratio) are plastic windows... They are not afraid of high humidity and temperature extremes. In addition, such designs have good thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you want to insulate the balcony, choose PVC windows. The most common types of structures today are:

• swing windows;
• windows with two-chamber sash;
• extended profiles.

Panoramic PVC windows

Advice: If you do not have the time or financial opportunity to update the balcony glazing, you can try to insulate the opening using special materials (polyurethane foam, foam rubber, etc.).

Additional methods for insulating a balcony

If you live in an area with a cold climate, one insulation on the balcony may not be enough. After all, even the highest quality heat insulators are sometimes not able to protect against severe frosts. Therefore, on cold winter days, you can organize additional insulation of the balcony.

For example, install a conventional electric heater. For greater effect, it should be placed near the wall connecting the balcony and the apartment itself.

Important! Never place the heater near windows. Condensation, which will be released during the process, can greatly harm the glass unit.

If you do not want to install additional heating devices, and carrying out central heating on the balcony is strictly prohibited, you can install a "warm floor" system on the loggia. It will serve for more than a dozen years, creating a comfortable temperature even in the cold season. In addition, today many such systems are equipped with a special thermostat that helps to choose the most optimal mode.

Another option for additional insulation is air conditioning. Besides the fact that it will heat the loggia in winter, it will also be able to cool the air on summer days. However, the use of an air conditioner has one rather important drawback - it will not be able to heat the balcony floor with high quality. Therefore, the warm floor still wins.

Advice: Installing a warm floor is another cost item. You should not rely only on your own strengths, since installing the system is a rather complicated process. It is better to entrust the work to professionals.

Protecting the room from cold air and strong wind, do not forget that good ventilation is also important on the balcony. With sealed gaps, this will be a little more difficult. Therefore, we recommend that you periodically ventilate the loggia for a more comfortable stay on it.

If you live in a cold climate, pay attention to the ventilation system of the "breather" type, which supplies clean air from the street, heating it up to the temperature you need.

Common mistakes when insulating a balcony

When organizing the insulation of the balcony on your own, you can not take into account many important nuances. Generally, people make fairly predictable and common mistakes, including:

How much will the insulation of the balcony cost?

It is rather difficult to calculate in detail the cost of balcony insulation. Since this process includes many stages. Moreover, today, with a fairly unstable exchange rate, prices for materials and works of craftsmen are constantly changing.

But in any case, you can make up the approximate cost of insulating the loggia. The main thing to remember is that the final amount can change in any direction (although, as a rule, it only increases in the course of work). Therefore, allocating money from the family budget, it is better to take a little more than is written in the estimate.

The total cost of internal insulation of the balcony consists of the following separate cost items:

1. Loggia glazing. Most often it is the largest percentage of the total. High-quality double-glazed windows and their installation will be quite expensive. But the effect of them will be much more noticeable than when using cheap options.
2. Insulation cost.
3. The price of other building materials (timber for logs, polyurethane foam, glue, etc.).
4. The cost of the work of professionals (if you plan to order the services of masters).
5. The cost of finishing and filling the balcony (finishing materials, furniture, etc.).

When insulating a balcony, it is better to choose only quality materials and use the services of glazing craftsmen you trust (regardless of their cost). The only expense item on which you can save money is the services of the masters for insulating the loggia. With full glazing of the room, you can sheathe the balcony with insulation yourself. And since the work of the craftsmen is expensive, you can save from 5000 hryvnia or more.

Do-it-yourself balcony insulation is a rather laborious process. However, with a little getting used to, you can do all the work without the help of professionals. Thus, you will be able to save an impressive amount and at the same time make the loggia warmer and, as a result, comfortable.

You can choose a suitable insulation for the balcony from the following list:

• mineral wool;
• foam plastic with a density of 25-35 kg / m3;
• extruded polystyrene foam (aka penoplex);
• thin foil insulation made of foamed polyethylene (penofol).

It cannot be said unequivocally which of the listed materials is the best, each of them has its pros and cons, as well as installation features. If you take mineral wool, then a vapor barrier device will be required to protect it, otherwise the open pores of the fibers will be saturated with moisture from the room, as a result of which the thermal insulation properties of the material will be lost. But basalt wool absolutely does not burn and does not even smolder when exposed to an open flame.

Polyfoam beats all competitors with a low price and good resistance to moisture, but at the same time it quickly ignites. If the cotton wool had to be protected from vapors, then the foam will have to be isolated as much as possible from an accidental spark. In this respect, expanded polystyrene and penoplex behave much better, which does not burn on its own, but simply melts from heating. At the same time, these polymers have the lowest thermal conductivity, and absolutely do not perceive moisture.

It is better to use materials like penofol together with more serious heaters, since their own resistance to heat transfer is low due to their small thickness. But as a vapor barrier and additional cladding when insulating the walls and ceiling of the balcony, penofol is just a godsend.

What is the best way to insulate the balcony? Each material that will be used as thermal insulation has advantages and disadvantages. In addition, when installing insulation, it is necessary to take into account the features of this process and the nuances of operation.

Insulation materials can be purchased at specialized stores. When making a choice, consider the main purpose of the product.

Today, thermal insulation on the balcony can be done very quickly, penofol is widely used in work. It is only suitable for indoor repairs. Having special protection on one side, the material is able to effectively reflect heat. The backing located on the other side acts as a heater.

Polyfoam is suitable both for outdoor work and for thermal protection from the inside. A feature of the material is that the foam can be put under the plaster. It is also suitable for wet facades. The plates must be covered with a reinforcing mesh, they are applied to special compositionsuitable for decoration. After it dries, the surface is painted.

Reinforced and extruded foam.

Remember that when insulating outside, the work cannot be extended over the winter season. But the insulation of the balcony with your own hands from the inside can be done in winter. Polyfoam has 1 drawback that must be taken into account: it deteriorates in direct sunlight.

Materials for insulating a balcony from the inside may be different. Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation performance. But it must be laid together with a layer of waterproofing, and do not forget about the vapor barrier.

Formation of a vapor barrier.

Do-it-yourself balcony insulation with mineral wool can be done in a few days. Pay attention to the quality of installation work, there should be no cold bridges in the room. Mineral wool can be placed on the floor, walls and ceiling inside the balcony to keep it warm in winter.

Mineral wool.

Penoplex is a bright orange material that belongs to extruded polystyrene. It is not at all difficult to insulate with such material with your own hands. It is very dense, perfect for thermal insulation of floors and for finishing work outside. A screed is made on top of the foam, which was laid on the floor. This material is 1.5-2 times more expensive than polystyrene, which must be taken into account when planning an estimate.

Penoplex.

When choosing a material, consider your experience in construction. If a number of heaters can be installed on their own, others require professional installation.

It is problematic to insulate the balcony outside on your own. It is better to entrust the process to professional climbers. When choosing materials in the store, take performance characteristics into account. In addition, you need to take into account the complexity of the installation work.

Step by step instructions will help you do everything right. The process of insulating a balcony outside consists of the following stages:

1. Buy a primer and apply it to the surface.
2. Glue foam or extruded polystyrene foam sheets. Take into account the wind load, fix the sheets on the dowels-fungi.
3. The thermal insulation of the balcony must be covered with a reinforcing mesh, it must be fixed with dowels with notches.
4. Cover the reinforcing layer with glue, apply 2 layers. When it hardens, take a good spatula and remove any streaks and bumps. After that, everything is ready for finishing work.
5. Paint the balcony or apply facade plaster.

For high-quality insulation outside, you can buy mineral insulation for the balcony. Basalt wool has proven itself well; it is produced in slabs. For their installation, you will need to arrange the lathing and vapor barrier. You cannot do without a layer of waterproofing - it will protect the insulating layer from getting wet.

How to insulate the balcony yourself from the inside? All work on installing insulation can be divided into the following stages:

1. Remove old structural elements. Prepare the surface.
2. It is necessary to carry out glazing, monitor the quality of installation of frames They can be made of wood, plastic or aluminum. Reinforce the parapet if required.
3. Lay insulation on the floor and side dividers. Insulate the balcony from the inside, paying attention to the thermal insulation of the parapet and ceiling. Capital walls do not need to be covered with insulation.

How to insulate the balcony from the inside? Mineral wool, penoplex have proven themselves well. Plates of material are installed on the crate, all joints are blown out with polyurethane foam. Sometimes apartment owners make crate from wooden beam, but companies that produce materials recommend metal profiles. The fact is that the humidity inside the balconies is high, the wood can deteriorate, and the thermal insulation must be done reliably.

No one makes strict requirements for the crate, the choice of material remains with the person who will make the casing. If you are thinking about how to insulate the balcony from the inside, then you should choose the material, the purchase of which will not become a burden for the family budget.

Do-it-yourself balcony insulation will not require large financial costs.

Granular expanded clay is often laid on the floor. Such insulation for the balcony inside has a porous structure and consists of burnt clay, so it is environmentally friendly. Builders use it for floor and ceiling insulation.

The work process is simple, it is enough to create a layer of expanded clay and spill it with liquid cement so that the granules are held together. But it must be borne in mind that such material will take 15-20 cm of height from floor to ceiling. In addition, a thin-layer screed will have to be poured over the expanded clay, because the embossed surface will not be suitable for laying, for example, the same parquet or laminate.

Another option for insulation is penofol. It is made of polyethylene foam. The material is especially suitable for heated floors, as it has a foil covering with a heat-reflecting effect. This insulation has 4 advantages: it does not let the wind through, retains heat, prevents water penetration and has vapor barrier properties.

Insulation of balconies and loggias: eight mistakes of decorators

Earlier, we examined the insulation of the balcony in sufficient detail, now let's dwell in more detail on the insulation of loggias. Many people call loggias balconies, not seeing the difference between them, although this is not true.

In general, initially a loggia is a recess in the wall, fenced off by a colonnade, but we are interested in a loggia in the sense that this word was given in Soviet, and later Russian, high-rise construction.

So, a loggia is an open, non-insulated (this is important for us!) Room with at least two (most often three) walls. The last point is the main difference from the balcony, which has only one wall - the outer wall of the house, to which it is attached, blown by all the winds.

The loggia is recessed into the outer wall of the house flush, which gives us a number of advantages. In particular, one of the three walls (internal) can be removed altogether, thus expanding the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

When the glazing work is finished, it's time to deal directly with the insulation. You should start with the choice of insulation material.

Many people use traditional foam and mineral wool out of habit, although modern industry is ready to provide much more advanced and effective materials for insulation.

For example, extruded polystyrene foam (extruded polystyrene foam, XPS). The basis for this material, as for many other plastics, is polystyrene, a crystalline, colorless substance.

It is melted, foamed with a mixture of freons and carbon dioxide and extruded. This tricky word is called the squeezing of a semi-liquid non-solidified material through a hole.

The process resembles squeezing toothpaste out of a tube, with the only difference that the holes of the "squeezer" -extruder are a slit a meter or more wide. The result is a wide and long tape, which is sold in rolls or in the form of panels. Extruded polystyrene foam is called Penolplex (or Penoplex) and is an excellent material for floor insulation.

Possible problems when insulating a balcony

Before insulating the balcony inside, I recommend that you think carefully about all the pros and cons of such a solution. Despite the fact that more and more people are resorting to installing insulation before decorating this room, this operation has several disadvantages.

Here are the ones that I consider to be the main ones:

1. Reducing the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe room. If just finishing already reduces the size of the balcony or loggia, then an additional layer of thermal insulation material further exacerbates the problem. Therefore, if this architectural element you have is tiny, think about whether the resulting additional area is worth the money and effort.
2. The appearance of condensed moisture inside structures. When using heaters, the dew point shifts inward, which leads to mold and deterioration of finishing materials.

This disadvantage, however, is easy to deal with. I will tell you how to insulate a balcony with your own hands from the inside so as to achieve an ideal microclimate inside.

Sequencing

The very technology of insulating a loggia or balcony consists of several important stages:

1. Sealing cracks and eliminating defects. Before installing the insulation for the balcony inside, you need to get rid of all cracks, irregularities, potholes and bulges. I recommend blowing out small cracks with polyurethane foam (just choose a high-quality one), cement mortar will cope with more serious troubles.

1. Arrangement of waterproofing. For this, I always recommend that my clients use penetrating materials. For example, Avatron or Penetron. They are easy to spray, but you can also use a simple roller or brush.

The peculiarity here is that the liquid penetrates deeply into the mineral surfaces, as a result of which they are not only protected from water, but also do not freeze during operation at low air temperatures.

1. Thermal insulator laying. It's easy to do it inside with your own hands. You do not need to install scaffolding or call an aerial platform. The main thing is to strictly follow the technology, which I will discuss below.

When choosing materials for work, immediately think about whether you will insulate the floor and ceiling. For these surfaces, more durable heat insulators are needed that do not change their properties from external mechanical stress.

1. Arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. It is needed just in order to avoid condensation of moisture that forms on the balcony, inside the thermal insulation materials. For this, vapor-permeable polymer membranes are used, for example, Izospan or Rockwool.

By the way, this stage can be avoided by using heat insulators with a foil layer, placing it inside the balcony. But I, nevertheless, would recommend not to save. Moreover, the estimate of the vapor barrier membrane will not increase much.

1. Decorative finishing of the balcony. It all depends on your imagination, the amount of money and the purpose of the room. I cannot give specific advice.

The vapor barrier is glued joint to joint, after which these places are sealed with metal tape - all this creates the so-called. "Thermos effect".

This is followed by the installation of the balcony flooring. It is recommended to create a 4-cm screed layer as a base, with a mandatory 1 cm gap between it and the walls. This margin is necessary in case of thermal expansion.

You can create such a gap by installing 1 cm thick polyethylene foam around the perimeter, and then start pouring. When the screed hardens, ceramic tiles are laid and fixed with tile glue.

It is best to mount the lathing in a panel house from a wooden beam with a section of 40x20 mm, and always dry and treated with an antiseptic. Stuffing takes place both horizontally and vertically using self-tapping screws and dowels, driven directly into the concrete.

Further, insulation implies finishing, which can be carried out in 2 ways: installation of plastic panels - 25 cm wide; installation of moisture-resistant drywall - with this approach, insulation implies additional finishing work: prime and putty the surface, remove the corners and level them.

After that, you can paint the walls or stick wallpaper. As for the installation of lighting devices (lamps, floor lamps, etc.), the electrical wiring to them must be laid even before the start of interior finishing work.

Insulation of the balcony, carried out with your own hands in a panel house, is often not without errors. Installation of vapor barrier from the cold side of the heat-insulating material - a film or membrane is placed between the wall and the insulation. For this reason, condensation forms on the surface.

When different types mineral wool during operation does not ensure their correct operation. The result is the wetting of the insulation and the gradual destruction of the entire interior finish, followed by dismantling and replacement.

Installation of wooden planks directly in a layer of polystyrene foam leads to a lack of solidity in the thickness of the insulation and the formation of the so-called. "Cold bridges". The same applies to the installation of a metal lathing inside a layer of insulation. In addition to the "cold bridges", condensation appears on the metal, destroying the heat-insulating material.

Restrictions on the insulation of balconies

But I can tell you what absolutely cannot be done when decorating a balcony or loggia. Moreover, violation of these rules may entail administrative or criminal liability.

So, it is forbidden:

1. To demolish the load-bearing partitions between two balconies (loggias) or this room and the residential part of the apartment.
2. Install on the balcony engineering Communication (in particular, heating, plumbing and sewerage) connected to the common system of the apartment.
3. Equip a kitchen or bathroom on the balcony (although, as you understand, no one forbids an office or bedroom).
4. Install glazing on balconies that are equipped with fire escapes to evacuate people during a fire.
5. Install suspended flower beds or clothes drying equipment outside the balcony enclosure.
6. Reduce the height of the parapet of the balcony or loggia (by dismantling the upper part or raising the floor). The minimum parapet height should be 1.1 meters.
7. Violate the appearance of the facade of the building (this is for information, so by insulating the balcony from the inside with your own hands, you are unlikely to damage the exterior of the house).
8. Glazing the balconies above the 9th floor on their own, violating the fire safety requirements.

As you can see, not all of the listed requirements are observed by our compatriots, but my conscience would be troubled if I did not tell you about them.

Now a little about the materials that can be used.

Methods for internal insulation of the balcony

Pouring concrete, expanded clay layer and similar methods cost a lot of money. You can make a similar insulation, but at the same time save money. An option for cheap wood and foam finishes can be as follows:

How to insulate the balcony? The choice of insulation.

A huge amount of materials are used for thermal insulation of such premises. I have compiled a table in which I have listed the most popular varieties, indicating the characteristics of each.

Name	Description
Expanded polystyrene	Dense material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, having a fine-grained porous structure. Do not confuse Styrofoam insulation with packing foam. The latter has large pores and breaks down quickly. Not suitable for floor insulation, as it does not withstand the applied load. Can be used for cladding, wall and ceiling installations.
Extruded polystyrene foam	A material that perfectly retains heat indoors and, thanks to a special production technology, has increased mechanical strength. Microorganisms do not grow on the surface of expanded polystyrene, it is not flammable and environmentally friendly.
Penofol	Another name for the material is polyethylene foam. For balconies, it is better to use insulation with a foil layer, which reflects heat energy and prevents moisture from the insulation layer. Foil, among other things, acts as a vapor barrier membrane.
Polyurethane foam	A special composition that is applied to surfaces using special equipment. After hardening, it forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer, which prevents the unproductive consumption of heat energy and cooling the balcony. The material is great for insulation, but with your own hands you cannot cope with its application.
Mineral wool	Basalt fiber based material, which is great for insulating walls and ceilings of the balcony. To increase its effectiveness, it must be protected from moisture. It is impossible to insulate the floor with mineral wool, since it does not withstand significant mechanical stress.
Multilayer panels	We are talking about sandwich panels that are used both for insulation and for decorating a balcony. They have a beautiful top layer that does not require additional finishing. Thermal insulation is glued on the bottom, which reduces the thermal conductivity of the enclosing structures.

At this point, I consider the theoretical part to be over and I will move on to presenting specific schemes for the internal insulation of balconies and loggias with the help of several, the most effective, in my opinion, materials.

The most common option is expanded polystyrene. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and is easily assembled by hand inside the balcony.

I tell you how to insulate a balcony with expanded polystyrene from the inside:

1. After carrying out preliminary operations (sealing of cracks and waterproofing), I always treat the surface with a penetrating primer. It allows you to improve the adhesion properties of mineral surfaces, remove dust from concrete monoliths and reduce the consumption of adhesive.

Processing can be done with a regular brush or spray. Very carefully process not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor. Otherwise, later there will be difficulties when gluing polystyrene foam.

1. You can continue to work after priming only after the composition has completely dried, which takes about 6 hours. If the walls of the balcony where I work are made of porous materials (for example, foam concrete), I always ground everything twice.
2. After priming, you can proceed to the installation of expanded polystyrene, which is supplied in slabs. Installation is carried out using glue and special fasteners with wide caps.

I prepare the adhesive composition from the purchased dry powder. It is necessary to mix it with water in the proportions specified in the instructions for use, and then achieve uniformity using a mixer connected to a drill.

I apply the finished glue to the heat-insulating material, after which the expanded polystyrene sheet is glued to the wall. I do the same with other materials, placing them in a checkerboard pattern with overlapping joints.

1. In order for the plates to adhere firmly, you need to fix them with dowels with plastic caps. To do this, I make a hole in the expanded polystyrene and the wall with a drill, after which I install the corresponding bracket there.

1. Considering that expanded polystyrene does not absorb water, a vapor-permeable membrane can be omitted. Although I see no reason to buy and fix a special film on the surfaces.
2. The last stage is plastering. To avoid the destruction of the decorative coating, you must first fix a reinforcing fiberglass mesh on the expanded polystyrene plates, and then plaster over it. This is exactly what I do.

1. Before plastering, you can install perforated galvanized corners on the corners, which will facilitate work and protect the corners from damage during operation.

This material is also widely used for internal insulation of balconies. It can be mounted on walls using special bituminous mastic, construction foam or plastic dowels with wide caps.

I will tell you how I make foam insulation using polyurethane foam:

1. To begin with, as in all other cases, defects are repaired and the balcony surfaces are waterproofed. By the way, a primer will not hurt either.
2. After completing the preparatory operations, it is necessary to squeeze the polyurethane foam from the perimeter around the perimeter of the pre-fitted foam board. No more foam is needed, the insulation will be securely fixed to the surface anyway.

1. After waiting a few seconds, you need to attach the material to the wall.
2. Further work is carried out using a similar technology. Naturally, I recommend displacing the seams in a checkerboard pattern to avoid the formation of cold bridges that reduce the effectiveness of the insulation work being carried out.
3. To keep the insulation stronger, it can be additionally reinforced with dowels with wide caps. Although this is not necessary.

1. The last stage is decorative finishing. Here I completely shift the responsibility for the choice of materials to you. Think for yourself, decide for yourself.

Well, I can't help but tell you about the use of mineral wool insulation. I cannot say that they are very effective, but they are very popular. I focus on them only because the laying technology itself is more complex here.

The fact is that mineral wool is very soft and does not have rigid geometric dimensions as such. It is produced in the form of rolls into which the material is rolled with a thickness of 2 to 20 cm.

I recommend buying stone (basalt) wool with a heat-reflecting foil layer for arranging a balcony. The latter will effectively protect the insulator from humidification and will play the role of a reflective screen that traps the thermal energy of heating devices inside the room.

Taking into account the described technical characteristics, it is possible to mount the insulating material only under a pre-equipped crate made of wooden bars or galvanized profiles. But this is good, since you can later install on the crate decorative cladding... For example, lining or plastic panels.

For example, I'll tell you about insulation using wooden blocks. It is better to take not square, but rectangular lumber with a section of 3 by 5 or 3 by 7 cm. This will save the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe balcony.

The lathing can be installed in two ways:

• horizontally - if later you will trim the balcony with plastic panels;
• vertically - if you have chosen lining as a material for decorative finishing.

Features of balconies in Khrushchev

There is nothing complicated in the insulation of a typical Khrushchev, and in fact it is not much different from the insulation of a loggia. There is no point in finishing the balcony without insulation, because it is unlikely to produce the desired result.

Considering that the balcony is outside the building, I immediately want to note that it will never be warm there in winter, unless you insulate it by 10-15 centimeters and install heating radiators. But on such a balcony there will be very little space!

And it makes no sense because mainly sliding frames with one or two glass panes are installed on balconies. Finished insulated loggia Why did I lead all this, oh yes! Besides, it makes no sense to buy expensive thermal insulation materials, we will insulate the balcony with foam! Before carrying out all work, be sure to treat the concrete with an antiseptic solution for bricks and concrete, since the concrete has been under aggressive environmental influences for a long time.

Let's make a list and try to keep everything in mind:

• Perforator;
• Screwdriver or screwdriver;
• Polyurethane foam;
• Styrofoam with a thickness of 5 centimeters;
• Construction stapler;
• Level, tape measure and pencil;
• Stationery knife;
• Wall panels or Euro lining (depending on your preferences);
• Skirting boards and fittings; A piece of linoleum or laminate;
• Fasteners.

Styrofoam can be laid from both the floor and walls. We make a typical crate with a step of 50 centimeters parallel to the floor (we will attach the cladding to it). We fill the space between the bars with foam and foam everything well.

The thickness of the walls is 5 centimeters, the thickness of the insulation of the balcony floor is 10 centimeters, otherwise our insulation will "eat" half of the balcony and it will become very narrow! The pictures attached to the article show what is being done and how.

Finishing

After we have all foamed, we cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe insulated balcony with penofol. It is advisable to do this when using plastic panels in the finish and it is obligatory when using "wooden" wall panels or eurolining, as this will provide additional protection against moisture.

The panels are attached to the crate with a construction stapler. The final step will be to lay the linoleum or laminate flooring and install the floor plinth. Important under flooring make a solid foundation.

10 mm plywood is best suited for this. If you have any questions, write! We will be happy to answer them! I also advise you to read my article on how to make a wardrobe on the balcony.

Thermal insulation of a balcony in an old house and in a new building has significant differences. This is due not only to the small area of \u200b\u200bthe Khrushchev loggias, but also to their design features:

• The reinforced concrete slab at the base of the balcony slopes towards the outside. This was done so that the rainwater flowed down. The same will be the case with the ceiling formed by the upper floor loggia. On average, the difference in height is about 150 mm. The walls are not even, this is the problem of all old houses.
• Lattice fencing. For insulation, you will have to build a parapet and install double-glazed windows. For durable fence foam blocks 10 cm thick will be enough.
• Poor stove condition. In many homes, balconies are already beginning to crumble and fall apart.

It is worth consulting with specialists and, if necessary, reconstructing the slab. All global alterations must be agreed with the supervisory authorities, otherwise problems will arise in the future.

Thermal insulation of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached on top of the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is the building recommendation to carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to arrange the insulation material outside. The internal placement of a layer of insulation requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials, so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the outrigger structure.

Thermal insulation of a balcony with mineral wool

What materials can be used to insulate the balcony and loggia from the inside? What finish will allow you to reliably protect the insulation from the interior space and create an aesthetic appearance of the interior walls?

IN modern technologies insulation of open hanging structures (balconies) four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene, penoplex, penofol and mineral wool. Consider the technological features of installation and the types of wadded insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (they are unwound into a track before laying) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Floor and ceiling insulation

The first question is which insulation technology to choose, the answer depends on the configuration of your loggia. The best option - when there is a concrete parapet, and if there is a metal fence instead, then there are several scenarios for further actions. The first - the parapet can be laid out from foam blocks or aerated concrete, and the metal can be removed completely. This path is the most acceptable, both in terms of excellent insulation and design of the loggia, and safety.

The second scenario - the fence is sewn up with corrugated board, and then a wooden frame made of beams is arranged to fasten the insulation. This path is somewhat shorter, but it cannot be said that it will cost you much less. There is weakness - wooden beams will serve as cold bridges and to get rid of them, you will have to put insulation in 2 layers with an offset. There is also a third way - the construction of a panoramic loggia without a parapet with full-height glazing.

The technology of finishing with penoplex, which you have to adhere to when insulating a glazed loggia with a concrete parapet, is quite clear. On the cleaned and slightly moistened surface of the walls, polyurethane foam is first applied for the primary fixation of expanded polystyrene or foam boards. Pre-prepared and cut to size slabs are pressed against the wall and glued to the surface on the foam.

At the same time, we insulate the walls of the loggia in the likeness of brickwork, placing sheets of penoplex with bandaging the seams. In simple words, the vertical seams of each subsequent row should be at least 150 mm apart from the seams of the previous one. In the process, you need to follow the vertical with a building level. After the foam has hardened, it is recommended to fix each expanded polystyrene plate to the wall using dowels - umbrellas.

The process of insulating the ceiling of the loggia is a little more complicated, the help of a helper will not hurt here, although with a certain skill you can do it yourself. Insulation plates will have to be immediately attached to the ceiling with dowels, for which it is necessary to drill holes quite accurately, and then hammer in the dowels, while supporting the plate. At the end, all seams and crevices are carefully filled with the same polyurethane foam.

Now you need to create a frame for the installation of interior trim from plasterboard, plastic, lining or others facing materials... Wooden slats cannot be attached to the insulation, but you can drill a hole in concrete through it. This is done using a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, and then the rails are screwed directly to the wall with special screws for concrete (called frame pins).

Having dealt with the walls, you can move on to the ceiling. To insulate it, I recommend using foam. Moreover, you need to buy an ordinary material for insulation and that kind, which is supplemented with a heat-reflecting foil layer, which increases the strength of the material and helps keep the heat inside.

You need to insulate the ceiling in the same way as the walls, using polyurethane glue and dowels. Only first you need to stick the first layer, and on top - the second, with a heat-reflecting surface.

The seams between the parts must be sealed with polyurethane foam, and at the end - glued with a special metallized adhesive tape. In this case, even a strong cold will not prevent you from creating an immortal masterpiece in your office on the balcony.

If, of course, you take care of the floor insulation, which, for example, I carry out as follows:

• i clean the floor surface from the remnants of building materials, influx of cement, dirt, debris, glue and so on;
• i cover the floor with penofol;
• on top I mount a crate of wooden blocks pre-cut with an electric jigsaw;
• i install heat-insulating material inside the crate, sealing the cracks with construction foam;
• i mount a sub-floor made of plywood or OSB boards;
• on top I lay the floor covering (usually linoleum or laminate).

However, my neighbor - a future professor - wanted to make a heated floor in his balcony-study. So I had to tell him the order of work in this case:

• on the reinforced concrete floor of the balcony, you need to make a screed with the help of a self-leveling mixture in order to level all the protrusions and irregularities;
• on top of the hardened screed, a layer of heat-reflecting material with a heat insulator must be laid;
• mount the heating electric cable from above, fixing it special tape (you remember that water heating on the balcony cannot be done, which means a water heated floor too);
• pour another layer of cement screed on top;
• install the selected decorative flooring.

There are two ways to insulate the walls of the balcony from the inside:

• direct fastening of the insulation to the surface with adhesive and dowels;
• installation of thermal insulation using wooden lathing.

The first method is more acceptable when you need to insulate the loggia inside with foam or extruded polystyrene foam (foam). Moreover, the latter is often attached to the walls "dry" with dowels, without the use of adhesive. There is nothing wrong with that, the main thing is that the insulation plates are installed correctly, that is, without any gaps. The density and strength of the foam allows it to stick well to some dowels and at the same time bear the load of the inner lining.

The wall surfaces are first cleaned and leveled, after which they are covered with a layer of deeply penetrating primer using a roller. After it dries (the time is indicated on the package), a slab insulation is glued to the wall. For this, a ready-made construction mixture is used, which is applied along the entire perimeter of each slab and at several points in the middle. After 2 days, the material is additionally attached with dowels.

By the way, the thickness of the foam insulation layer must be at least 100 mm for all walls and ceilings. If the balcony is insulated with expanded polystyrene, then a thickness of 80 mm is sufficient. After finishing the installation of thermal insulation, its surface can be plastered with reinforcing fiberglass mesh or other types of finishes can be applied.

As for mineral wool, it can also be glued, but it is still easier to use lathing bars. They are installed on the walls and ceiling with an interval less than 1-2 cm of the width of the insulation plates, so that the latter is inserted between the bars of the raspor. According to reviews, when insulating with rolled wool, it is necessary to take into account its gradual sliding down and, in order to avoid this phenomenon, put additional horizontal jumpers of the crate.

For internal insulation of almost all structures, expanded polystyrene is very widely used. Its low cost does not affect quality. It is sold in the form of plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more. If the apartment is located in the north, then it is better to use sheets 15 cm thick. For the installation of foam, they make a crate with the same cells. Expanded polystyrene is convenient in that it is easy to cut with an ordinary knife.

The positive aspects of this insulation are that it is odorless, does not emit harmful substances, is environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. Sheets, as a rule, are fixed on special "umbrellas" or construction glue. As an economy, it is better to insulate the balcony inside with it.

Mineral wool is also quite popular. Such insulation is slightly more expensive than foam, but this is due to the additional sound insulation that the material has. Therefore, using mineral wool, you can not only insulate the structure with high quality, but also eliminate street noise. It is sold in the form of yellow rolls.

Warming the loggia Secrets of craftsmanship from Alexei Zemskov

The fire safety of this insulation is at a high level, and the lack of a specific smell makes the mineral wool one of the most popular. The material begins to melt at 1000 degrees. For such rolls, it is also necessary to make a crate. Another plus is easy cutting. The disadvantage is due to the composition, which includes powdered glass, which bites into the skin during work and causes itching and redness.

Penoplex is a new insulation that appeared on the building materials market relatively recently and has already become popular. It is lightweight, which makes it easy to work with. Penoplex is produced in the form of rectangular sheets, which can even be cut with a clerical knife. By the method of fastening, it is similar to polystyrene, which is glued or fixed with fasteners. The surface of the material is rough, so it does not slip in your hands.

Decorative finishing of the balcony

I will conclude my story with a short story about how to finish the balcony after it has been insulated. Many different materials can be used for this:

• plastic panels;
• ordinary and decorative plaster;
• wallpaper;
• tile;
• wooden lining.

Considering that I told you how to insulate a balcony with mineral wool, I will continue this topic. I will describe how you can install lining or plastic panels on the walls. The technology is very similar, since both of these materials are separate lamellas, connected to each other using a special system of spikes and grooves.

And there is really nothing to do here:

• the first part is mounted on the installed crate, starting from the corner;
• after that, all subsequent parts are installed.

I try to give preference to wood, as it is a natural material, but plastic is easier to work with, does not require additional finishing and is cheap.

As previously mentioned, foam is cheap, but nevertheless practical, many builders use it. What is the best way to insulate the balcony from the inside with expanded polystyrene:

Insulation of the balcony with penoplex

Insulation of a balcony or loggia allows you not only to get rid of drafts and dampness, but also to expand the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment. To insulate the loggia, it is necessary not only to use high-quality window blocks, but also insulate the walls, floor, ceiling of a balcony or loggia.

Advantages of PENOPLEX COMFORT® boards when insulating a balcony:

• High compressive strength;
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• Zero water absorption;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Ease and simplicity during installation;
• Low vapor permeability, which is very important for internal insulation.

Scheme 1 - do-it-yourself balcony insulation

• Loggia wall;
• Insulation for the PENOPLEX COMFORT® balcony;
• Sheet material;
• Lathing;
• Fastener;
• The floor of the loggia.

Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of premises. You can attach it to the surface using bituminous mastics, polyurethane foam or dowel mushrooms. Consider the option of mounting on polyurethane foam.

Fastening to polyurethane foam

So. The waterproofing is done. Polyurethane foam is applied to the insulation plate along the perimeter. It's enough. After application, we wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next slab fits to the first butt. After two days, you can fix the slabs with additional dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in the same order as described above. Do the finishing at your discretion. You can sew up the insulation plates with plastic panels, they look very original.

Additionally, we fix the plates with dowels

Council. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential things on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

The balcony insulation process is over. As you can see, it does not represent anything complicated. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done the insulation of the loggia yourself, then in the comments share your methods with your readers.

The creation of a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be airtight. The floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

• self-insulation ( personal experience)
• ... Most useful from youtube
• On the example of Moscow

Heat insulator selection

The advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common options for heat insulators:

• Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
• Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
• Polyurethane foam (PPU);
• Styrofoam;
• Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw material:

• Stone;
• Slag;
• Glass.

An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material fits into the prepared structure. The frame for installation can be made of metal profiles or wooden bars.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

When laying mineral wool, the foil side should be directed towards the interior of the room. This principle allows heat to bounce off the aluminum cover and return to the room.

This method is quite common, despite the existence of cheaper heat insulators. The insulation is resistant to fire, does not contribute to its spread. When mineral wool is heated, no harmful substances are released into the air.

The main disadvantage is that moisture is destructive, a vapor barrier is needed.

Pay attention to the integrity of the mineral wool packaging before purchasing. Moisture adversely affects the properties of the heat insulator. For high-quality insulation, it is necessary that the space of the loggia be dry.

Polymer based insulation

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compositions.

Advantages:

• The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also a low weight of the plates;
• High degree of moisture resistance;
• The materials are durable;
• Antifungal resistance;
• Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (foamed polyethylene);
• An economical option for repairs, subject to the choice of foam as insulation.

The main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire, emit harmful substances during combustion.

When choosing foam and other polymer-based materials, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density

If you plan to use the space in winter, then choose a thickness of 50 mm. The density is determined by the further coating - for the putty, a value of 25 kg / cu. m.

1. Foam sheets

Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) during installation.

Polyfoam refers to the budgetary methods of insulating the loggia, but it is considered a rather fragile material, therefore, a crate is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam, for its installation it is not required to create a special frame.

2. Penoplex

Plates of extruded polystyrene foam (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. Seams between elements are sealed with polyurethane foam. Penoplex is fixed using special disc dowels ("fungi").

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator, and with the help of penofol, it is possible to provide vapor barrier to polystyrene foam. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and trapped in the room.

In order to accelerate the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high in comparison with other analogues, but many managed to evaluate the operational properties of PU foam. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation rates due to its fine-pored structure.

Spraying of polyurethane foam is carried out by specialists, on assembly work one day is enough, it does not take much time for complete drying.

The main stages of work on warming the space of the loggia

In order to increase the usable area in your home and operate the premises all year round it is necessary:

1. Close up the gapsif any. Study the room carefully to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, the slots are filled with polyurethane foam, even if they are of considerable size.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Organize a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - "Penetron", "Aquaton", etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become resistant to unfavorable weather to the maximum, and the strength characteristics improve.

The device of the waterproofing layer allows you to eliminate the smallest surface cracks, which may not be visible visually.

4. Heat insulating layer. To organize a warm structure, we use the selected material (polyurethane foam, penoplex, foamed polyethylene, polystyrene, etc.).

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, you should use special polymer membranes ("breathing"), as well as films "Rockwool", "Izospan", penofol.

When using penofol, lay the insulation in such a way that the side covered with foil faces the interior of the room. If this condition is met, the heat will be constantly reflected from the foil, lingering inside the space.

6. Final finishing of walls, floor and ceiling surfaces.

A detailed description of each stage can be found in the article: .

Balcony room decoration

The goals of creating interior decoration:

• External masking of the heat insulator;
• Organization of a favorable indoor environment in the room.

To create a balcony interior, you can choose different options finishes. For the finishing layer, plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, gypsum board sheets and even a block house are perfect.

Lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden lathing frame.

The walls of the loggia are lined with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

IN plastic panels there are grooves for connecting elements. Plastic option lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of GKLV sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard boards can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or veneered with decorative plaster.

Wall decoration with wallpaper over sheets of gypsum plasterboard.

Bamboo wallpaper. The base for finishing is plasterboard.

Video

1. The result of the loggia insulation.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical leads. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, finishing the walls with putty. Concrete floor screed over insulation slabs.

2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.

Consistent process of furnishing the premises. Scheme of wall insulation with polystyrene and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, sheathing with OSB boards, installation of laminate lamellas.

.

How does a balcony differ from a loggia

First of all, let's clearly separate these concepts. Both are glazed, so most people call the resulting space a balcony, although this is incorrect. And some mistakenly believe that if you install windows on the balcony, it automatically turns into a loggia.

The key difference between the two structures is that the balcony has no walls and protrudes beyond the facade, while the loggia has side walls and, on the contrary, is recessed into the building. In other words, the outside air acts on the balcony from three sides, and on the loggia only from one or two, if the apartment is corner.

What result to expect

You can insulate both, but the final effect will be very different. A well-insulated loggia is no different from a room. With a heat source, it becomes a full-fledged living space for year-round use.

Due to the lack of solid walls, the thermal resistance of the insulated balcony is much worse - it is comfortable to stay there until late autumn. A sufficient level could be achieved with an additional layer of thermal insulation, but this is not rational due to the small area of \u200b\u200bthe room. After warming, there will be almost no free space.

What's with the glazing

Since 25% of the heat loss falls on, it makes sense to take on the insulation of a loggia or balcony only if there are energy-saving windows. If wooden frames with one glass are installed, you will first have to replace them with modern ones.

Double-glazed windows with a higher thermal resistance weigh a lot, and can only be installed on loggias. Balcony floors have a weak bearing capacity, and most likely it will not work to mount such windows there.

2. Consider the design

Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of insulation, choose the option for finishing the walls and finishing flooring, and also decide how the room will be heated. All this will determine the design and the algorithm for its installation.

Since a balcony or loggia is insulated from the inside, it is important to use a vapor-proof material in order to avoid condensation and the appearance.

instrumentgid.ru

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is best suited for this. When installed with sealing joints, it allows you to make a kind of thermos out of the room, which will keep heat well by cutting off the external cold. At the same time, with EPS, you can achieve sufficient thermal insulation, taking a minimum of precious space from the room.

Some consider styrofoam toxic. This is not entirely true. The material is indeed flammable and, when heated above 60 ° C, emits harmful substances, but this does not make it dangerous, since the EPS is always covered with a finish.

Wall decoration

After good insulation on the loggia or balcony, you can apply any type of finish. Depending on the chosen coating, the technology of work on thermal insulation is slightly different.

• Wooden lining, PVC or MDF panels - for mounting to the wall, you will need to first make a crate.
• Decorative plaster or putty followed by painting - this type of finish can be applied directly to the insulation.
• - the easiest way is to glue on drywall, fixed on a wooden crate.

Flooring

The floor of the insulated loggia is no different from the floor of the room, so all existing topcoats can be used there. However, for each type, you will need one or another version of the subfloor.

• Laminate, linoleum, carpet are laid on plywood sheets, chipboard (chipboard), DSP (cement chipboard) or OSB (oriented strand board) fixed on top of wooden logs.
• and porcelain stoneware are laid on a concrete screed.

Floor slabs of balconies have a low bearing capacity, therefore, only floors on wooden logs are allowed on them. In addition to this, on more durable loggia bases, you can also pour a screed for laying tiles.

In both cases, if desired, you can equip an electric floor heating system. The only difference is that for the construction on the logs, a film infrared floor is used, and for the screeds, a heating cable or heating mats.

Heating

It is important to understand that insulating a balcony or loggia will only prevent the walls from freezing and slightly increase the temperature compared to the street temperature. To maintain a comfortable microclimate in winter, you cannot do without a heating source.

There are three main ways to heat a room:

• Electric is the most costly and difficult to install option, but at the same time the most effective and convenient.
• Convector - a heater installed against an outer wall can be turned on only on the coldest days or only when there are people in the room.
• Central heating radiator - by law it is forbidden to transfer the device to a loggia or balcony, but if the partition is removed or the door is constantly open, the battery will cope with heating even from the room.

Take things out, remove shelves, hangers, and other items. Clear the walls from old paint and plaster. If there are foci of lesion with a fungus, remove it and carefully treat the places with a special antiseptic, and then dry all surfaces well.

To prevent blowing out, seal all gaps around the perimeter of the fencing slab, as well as at the junctions to the side walls, floor and ceiling. Remove from joints old plaster and fill them with polyurethane foam.

The bottom line is to cut off any cold air flows from the street and make the room as tight as possible.

If you plan to use the insulated space as a study or recreation area, you must pre-mount the electrical wiring. To do this, install in the right places, lighting and switches.

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It is better to run the cables along the inner wall adjacent to the room. It is not insulated, so all wiring can be easily hidden inside the frame or plaster layer. The sockets and can be plugged in from the nearest outlet in the room. But to power the warm floor, it is advisable to conduct a separate cable from the distribution board.

Expanded polystyrene is sold in the form of slabs 60 × 120 cm in size and 20 to 150 mm thick. The sheets have an L-shaped lock along the contour, which simplifies installation and prevents blowing through the joints.

There are different ways to fix the EPSP to the walls. The most common is glue-foam in cylinders, which is applied around the perimeter of the sheet and in the middle. Another option is fixing in the corners and in the center on dowels-umbrellas with a plastic or metal core. Also, expanded polystyrene is attached over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe sheet to adhesive mixtures for insulation.

To form a single contour of thermal insulation, it is necessary to seal all joints. It is important to leave gaps of 10-15 mm near the walls in the corners, under the ceiling and near the floor, so that later they can be filled with polyurethane foam. It is recommended to coat the joints in the locks between the plates with glue-foam or glue with foil.

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The required thickness of insulation can be achieved either with one sheet or with a combination of two. In this case, the second option is even preferable, since the fragments of expanded polystyrene are tightly adjacent to each other and form a single layer, and due to the displacement of the joints between the plates, maximum protection against blowing can be achieved.

After the end of the work, an unbreakable structure should be obtained, where each sheet of EPSP fits snugly to the neighboring one, and all joints between them in the corners, under the ceiling and at the floor are sealed with polyurethane foam.

The fence slab borders the street and is exposed to the cold air the most, so the maximum insulation thickness here is 80 mm. It is better to use not one 80-mm sheet, but a "pie" of plates: 50 + 30 mm.

YouTube channel "Building for ourselves"

If dimensions allow, wooden crate mounted on top of the second layer of EPSP, fixing the bars with anchors or dowels directly through the insulation. When the width of the window sill is limited, the crate is fastened with 50 mm expanded polystyrene foam, and the second layer of insulation is placed between the frame bars.

If chosen as a finish, you can do without the construction of a frame. In this case, the mixture is applied directly to the surface of the EPS. For better adhesion, the sheets must be trowelled or scratched with a regular hacksaw.

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For walls, an EPS layer of 50 mm is sufficient. The work is done according to the same principle. If necessary, the sheets are cut to the desired size with a sharp knife. To join the pieces to each other, an L-shaped lock is formed at their ends with the same knife.

It is better to insulate in two layers (30 + 20 mm), and fasten the frame over the EPS. But if the window is installed without extras and the space is limited by the width of the frame, the second layer of expanded polystyrene can also be laid between the frame bars.

If you are going to plaster the walls in the future, then the crate is not needed. It is enough to fix the sheets and make their surface rough with a grater or hacksaw.

The ceiling borders on the apartment and not on the street. Therefore, the same EPS layer is sufficient here as on the walls - 50 mm. Laying is done in a familiar manner. Mounting of your choice: glue-foam, dowel-umbrella, glue mixture. Expanded polystyrene is a very light material and reliably adheres to the ceiling only with glue.

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When installing, pay attention to the height of the windows. If the frame is installed under the ceiling itself without additional profiles, then due to a thick layer of insulation, the window sashes may not open. Take into account the thickness of the battens and finishing so that after installation there is a gap of at least 5–7 mm to the sash.

For thermal insulation of the floor, an EPSP with a minimum thickness of 50 mm is required, and better - 80 mm in two layers. Extruded polystyrene foam has high density and can withstand a load of up to 30 tons per square meter, therefore it can serve as a floor base.

YouTube channel "XPS TechnoNIKOL"

After installation on EPSP, it is enough to lay plywood, chipboard, DSP or OSB - and on top you can lay a finishing floor covering like laminate or. When installing a film underfloor heating, you first need to lay penofol or another heat-reflecting substrate.

Under the laying of tiles or porcelain stoneware, a reinforced cement screed is poured directly onto the EPSP, into which, if desired, a cable underfloor heating or thermomats can be installed. If the heating elements have a small thickness, they can easily be laid in the adhesive layer when laying the tiles.

The floor on the balcony or loggia is always lower than in the room, so many people prefer to bring them one level and remove the step. This is done using a log from a wooden beam 50 × 50 mm or 40 × 40 mm.

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First, transverse joists are laid with a pitch of 40-60 cm and fixed to the slab with anchors. Then the gaps between them are filled with insulation and foamed, and longitudinal logs with a similar pitch are attached on top and aligned in level. Next, the second layer of insulation is laid, filled with foam and plywood or other sheet material.

10. Complete the finishing

At the very end, the ceiling and the floor are trimmed. If plaster is selected, then a reinforcing mesh is glued to the sanded EPSP surface, and then two layers of plaster and paint are applied.

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When cladding with clapboard, plastic or MDF panels, moldings are attached to wooden frame on the walls and ceiling.

YouTube channel “Loggias. buy "

For wallpapering, the easiest way is to sheathe the walls with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Use the crate as a frame, seal the joints between the sheets with putty and, after priming the surfaces, glue the wallpaper.

The final stage of finishing is the installation of the finishing floor. Linoleum is laid or spread on the previously prepared base. If a warm floor is planned, then it is first installed. Next, the skirting boards are mounted.

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The exception is tiles. Due to wet processes during installation, it is better to mount it at the stage of floor insulation and before starting work on the walls.