How to make a box for reinforced-plastic windows. Sealing of plastic windows. Waterproofing using special tapes

Not so long ago, plastic windows were considered a kind of "elite" element of a house or apartment, available to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems have become not so expensive and have become widespread used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones both in the degree of insulation, and in noise insulation, and by by catching all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just outwardly, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In short, both during the construction of new housing and during repairs, the issue is almost always unambiguously resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, engaged in assembling them in almost all regions of the country. Large firms in the price of their windows immediately include their installation - with large volumes of production, they can afford it. But it is not uncommon to find small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles by now. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by conducting an independent installation?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to understand the process technology well and immediately prepare the necessary consumables. And, of course, during installation, be very careful, strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Should be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already stood the test of time, and it would be inappropriate to make adjustments to it at your discretion.

• First of all, the necessary measurements are carried out, an order is made for a window structure.
• After the window is made and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
• The next step is to prepare a new window for installation. It may differ depending on the selected window installation method, which will be described below.
• The most important stage is the correct installation of the window into the opening, its alignment vertically and horizontally, leaving the required gaps, and fastening to the walls.
• Next, there is the sealing of the seams between the frame and the opening, providing hydro and vapor barrier.
• The next step is to install the ebb outside and the window sill inside the room.
• The final adjustment of the window mechanisms is carried out, the installation of the necessary fittings.
• When the room will be finished, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main ways of attaching plastic windows

Before taking on independent work, you need to understand a little theory.

• Firstly, one should not start assembling a window for someone who does not quite accurately represent its device. First, let's look at the outside window:

1 - Window frame assembled from PVC profiles.

2 - Openable sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, be swing-out. Suspended to the frame by means of special fittings that allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 - The central post is an impost that divides the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material of manufacture is the same frame profile.

4 - Installed in the opening sash or directly in the frame profile (with a "blind" part of the window) double-glazed window. It can be single-chamber (two glasses) or two-chamber (3 glasses).

5 - Fittings. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 - PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed simultaneously with the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if the positions coincide with the top figure, their numbers are saved):

- The frame profile (pos. 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

- Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metallic profile (item 7). This item etcgo ahead t the required rigidity of the frame structure.

- The sash profile (pos. 2) is arranged in approximately the same way. The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame, inside there is also a reinforcing metal element (pos. 8)

- The glass unit in the frame or in the window sash is held in place with glazing beads (pos. 9).

- The diagram additionally shows the device window slope from a PVC panel. Pos. 10 - starting profile, pos. eleven - PVC panel, pos. 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, the shape of the cross-section of the profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the glass unit differ, but still the typical scheme remains the same.

More details about how and how to correctly approach the choice of its optimal model is described in a special publication of our portal.

• Secondly, it is necessary to decide on the method of fixing the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchoring, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) pre-fixed to the window.

A. In the first case (in the figure - on the left), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole. The fastening element is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed glass unit or covered sash.

The advantages of this method:

• The window in the opening is installed much more accurately.
• The fastening strength of the entire window system is higher, therefore this approach is the only possible one when large sizes windows (2000 mm or more on either side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of storeys, etc.)

Disadvantages:

• The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows, opening doors. For an inexperienced master this - unnecessary problem , since when dismantling the glazing beads it is not difficult to scratch or even bend, and the removed glass unit requires a particularly careful attitude. Due to the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with window unpacking.
• Violation of the integrity of the profile (drilling through it) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and under certain conditions can provoke.
• This installation takes longer.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets mounted on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these plates are attached with dowels or anchors to the wall (schematically shown in the upper figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from view.

Advantages:

• Such installation is easier and faster, especially if standard anchor plates are used, which fit tightly into the grooves intended for them on the end part of the profile.

• The integrity of the profile is not compromised - there is no need to drill through it.
• There is no obligatory need to disassemble the window - you can install it pre-assembled. (Because of this, this method is sometimes referred to as "no unpacking"). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons at once. Firstly, most often windows are delivered from the manufacturer disassembled. Secondly, it is very difficult and dangerous to mount a complete window with installed double-glazed windows, especially on a high floor, due to its large mass. And thirdly, filling the remaining gaps on the outside, providing external waterproofing and installing the ebb is still more convenient to carry out with the glass units completely removed.

Disadvantage, in principle, one, which has already been mentioned - for the strength of the installation, for the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Measurements

It is appropriate to make one very important point right away. The owners of the apartment, one way or another, will have to contact a company that manufactures windows to place an order. The optimal situation will be when a representative of the manufacturer comes and independently carries out all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the probability of error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to deal with the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window for some reason suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the company's employees, and the customer will have the right to demand the production of the correct window structure.

Measurements are most often a free service

Very often, in serious companies, the measurement of the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not additionally paid, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If it is nevertheless decided to carry out the measurements yourself, then you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

• In panel high-rise buildings, most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way the outer slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
• In brick houses, there is usually no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the figure - on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measurement of the window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and on top, the window frame should be 15 ÷ 25 mm by a quarter, and there should still be a gap for filling it with mounting foam.

This means that the measurement is made as follows:

• Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally A between opposite slopes. Considering that the window should go on them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, add 30 ÷ 50 mm to the resulting distance. This gives the required window width in advance.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined FROM at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with magnitude IN, which shows the distance between the slopes at the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no defining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side, at the sides, there must be at least 20 mm for sealing with polyurethane foam. It is possible to adjust the ordered width, since there is a certain range of window overlap by a quarter.

• Now about the height of the window. The approach of the frame to the top quarter remains the same. Lower quarter, usually, it does not happen in openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. For their installation, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers mount it during the order execution process, but it never interferes with control.

An important design element is the substitute profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are made from the outside - from the upper quarter to the point where the tide located at an angle (if it stands) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

To this value, 15 ÷ 25 mm is added - this is the approach of the frame to the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. There should also be a gap under it for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. As a result, you should get the required window height.

For control, measurements are made inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the "bare" opening (sometimes it makes sense for me to remove the window sill altogether, since it will soon change anyway). The obtained opening height will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitute profile + not less 20 mm at the top and 5 ÷ 20 mm at the bottom for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if the installation of a substitute profile is not planned (which in itself is already a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order a window sill, low tide and slopes.

• The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width is the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

• Sill length - maximum opening width ( FROM) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized, and the option most suitable for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the angle between the opening and the inner wall plus the desired distance of the window sill protrusion outward (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a straight opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measurement for a straight opening - much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - a).

• The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two values \u200b\u200bof the mounting gap FROM... As before, we take it for 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
• The height of the window is determined by the difference between the opening height, the mounting gap at the top (20 mm) and the thickness of the mounting profile (30 mm) and the 10 mm gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the mounting gap from the bottom is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a window and a quarter.

If measurements are taken, you can go to place an order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it is still better to call the measurer to the house, so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight skew of the opening caused by the shrinkage of the building.

Preparation of tools and consumables

While the window is being manufactured, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. You need to prepare the installation tool and supplies.

From tools and materials you will need:

	Rotary hammer with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a chisel chisel		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Set of screwdrivers
	Roulette		Building level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Pencil for marking
	Rubber or special plastic hammer for PVC windows		Spatula, 50 ÷ 60 mm wide
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Hacksaw for wood
	Anchor plates - if the fastening method is "without unpacking" or combined		Hammer-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm - for anchor plates or Ø10 mm - for fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4 × 16 and 4 × 25
	Precompressed Self Expanding Sealing Tape (PSUL)		Thermal vapor barrier PPE tape, best of all - foil
	Vapor permeable diffuse tape		Assembly foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone Sealant - A small tube should be sufficient.		Wedges for exposing the window. You can use specialized plastic or just wood.

The table needs clarification:

I.First of all, we deal with the number of points to re-attachment. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of points to re-link. The three most widespread option - a window with an impost, a completely blind window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, three main quantities appear, A, IN and FROM.

A - distance from the inner corner window frame up to points to reposition. Be sure to put two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. The value A is taken to be equal to 150 to 180 mm.

IN - the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

- for "white" PVC windows - no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made of colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

FROM - the distance from the impost to the attachment point towards the larger sash (if two wide sashes are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The size of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

With such a scheme in front of your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is even advisable to immediately sketch out a scheme for placing points for reattachment - this will be a good help when carrying out work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? It depends on the wall material and on the way the window is fixed in the opening.

If the fastening method "with unpacking" is used, that is, through the frame, then metal, frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are taken. In this case, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow bricks), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or folded from natural natural stone. Dowel nails are preferred on walls made from materials that do not have a high degree of compressive strength, such as lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They are also suitable for hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case when installation on anchor plates will be used, it will be enough for each attachment point of two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, the plates themselves will be needed - and it is better to purchase them in the same organization that makes the window - special hooks on the plate must exactly fit the PVC profile. To attach the plate, in addition, you will need self-tapping screws with a drilling point 4 × 25 mm - one piece for each attachment point.

The length of the main fasteners must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting gap, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For various wall materials, it has its own value - see the table:

Small self-tapping screws 4 × 16 may be needed for attaching the ebb and auxiliary elements for installing the window sill. They are also needed if it is supposed to install a mosquito net from the outside of the window - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.

• PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it is enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And from below it will be attached when installing an external ebb. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
• PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely isolate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
• Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when doorway with a quarter, and it is advisable to glue it around the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
• Polyurethane foam: the best option - purchase cylinders with "pro" - foam, for the use of which you will need a special gun. It does not give "inadequate" expansion, like the cheap one implemented in spray guns, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame struts. In addition, it is much better quality, more durable, it is much easier to apply it to the right places, without unnecessary cost overruns.
• Finally, the silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. When correct installation if there are gaps, then they are very insignificant, that is, a large amount of sealant is not required.

And finally forward-looking the owner will purchase a film that will cover the pieces of furniture, walls, the floor in the room where the window will be installed - the work will be quite dusty at first.

Dismantling the old window

After the window is made and delivered to the work site, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and free the opening. This work is rather dirty and laborious, but you cannot do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	The largest flaps are removed first. For example, if a balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. There is an important nuance - it is possible to remove the sashes or doors together with the glass only if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window "plays" or is badly rotten, then, for reasons of elementary safety, the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended to immediately remove all dismantled parts from the work area - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and getting injured.
	If the side of the window has a window, then first remove it. If it was not possible to unscrew the old hinge fasteners (and most often it does), then you will have to make an effort - usually this is enough for the window to be removed.
	Windows are usually hinged, from which they can be removed by simply lifting them from below with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents are removed - you can proceed to dismantle the frame.
	First, the central rack is removed - impost. To make it easier, the imports are sawn closer to the bottom of the frame. It is necessary to cut with a hacksaw - in some videos, the masters flaunt the fact that they use a "grinder" for this. To repeat after them - in no case should be - it is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever that will not present much difficulty in breaking out of the frame.
	Next, the lower frame lintel is removed. Again, for the convenience of dismantling, it is advisable to saw it through, using a jigsaw for this.
	Using a pry bar or nailer as a lever, one of the halves is pulled upwards.
	If there is resistance at the place of its attachment to the vertical stand, then you can help yourself there with a mount
	After that, the second half is broken in the same way.
	After removing the lower lintel, dismantle the window sill. It can be knocked out with a hammer from the street side.
	The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Go to the upright rack. It is often tightly wedged above and below. Then it is better to move it somewhat away from the wall, and also saw through with a jigsaw.
	Pulling out the two halves of the rack in turn will no longer present much difficulty
	The upper part of the frame on one side is no longer supported by anything, and should move away without any problems.
	The last upright of the frame shouldn't resist either if you pry it well with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the frame posts and the wall, you have to chop off the plastered slopes with a puncher.
	The last stage is cleaning the freed window opening from the old seal, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Sometimes it makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All garbage is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to correcting the opening - removing defects in the concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a perforator, installing a chisel-blade on it. It is also advisable to immediately gouge small grooves in the wall on both sides at the place of the future installation of the window sill, with a width and depth of about 50 mm and a height of about 30.

After cleaning the dust, one should not be too lazy and walk over the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve the adhesion with the polyurethane foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

A. If you plan to install a window "with unpacking", then it is advisable to negotiate the order during registration, so that it will be brought disassembled (and this is most often the case). If not, then you will have to disassemble yourself.

• First, glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pry off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first lumen appears, it is widened by carefully moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to gently pry the glazing bead in the center.

The bead must disengage in the groove and separate in the locking part. Then it remains to put your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead so that there is no confusion when reinstalling. But it is better to mark with a pencil from the inside out - from the PVC surface, the pencil mark is very hard to rub off.

• Is retrieved. It is most convenient to do this with a special suction cup, but if it is not there, then you can do that. Caution - the glass unit is heavy enough and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the glass unit. Their position will need to be noted in some way so that during installation they would fall into the same place.

Prices for the popular line of windows

Video: how to remove a glass unit from a PVC window

• It is not required to get the glass unit from the opening sash - it is enough to remove the sash itself. This is not difficult to accomplish. To begin with, the sash handle is moved to the "closed" position - it looks down. From both hinges, from the top and from the bottom, the decorative casing is removed - it should be easily pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin that protrudes slightly outward. It is pushed down, and then either gently knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After that, the handle is moved to the "open" position. The door is folded over onto itself, and then removed by a translational movement upwards from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as the dismantled double-glazed windows, is temporarily removed from working area, so as not to accidentally damage it during further operations.

Video: how the PVC window sash is removed

• The next step in preparation is to drill holes for attaching the window to the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up scheme for placing the points, the centers of the holes are outlined and slightly nailed. A metal drill Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to shockless action) or screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, quickly passing the PVC layer, immediately, without skewing, rests against the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, one insignificant obstacle will remain in the form of the inner PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, then it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and even edges.

• The presence of a wildcard profile is checked. It is attached from below with the usual lock connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not there, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise in advance, about a day before the installation of the window, to fill the cavities of this profile with polyurethane foam, so that it does not become a "weak link" in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

• The protective cover is removed from the outside of the frame. If this is not done right away, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun even a little. And in general - it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. From the inside, this coating can be removed later.

If there is a mosquito net on the window, then now is the time to mount the brackets for it. They are installed on self-tapping screws 2 × 16 mm, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with the pressing of the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and that reliable fixation of the mesh is ensured, as well as its installation and removal by moving it upward until it stops in the upper brackets.

• The last preparatory step in this case is gluing the PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Usually PSUL is placed so that between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm.

B. If the window is to be mounted on anchor plates, then the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

- Firstly, the blind sash may not be deflated - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been said, installation will be somewhat complicated due to the large mass of the window.

- Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended attachment points. They have toothed or straight hooks that must perfectly match the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to apply moderate force, for example, knocking with a hammer, and they will snap into place.

Installing the anchor plate in the profile groove ...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - it, having passed through the reinforcing metal profile, will securely hold the plate in place. The plates are fixed perpendicular to the frame, and then bend them so that they fit into the window when installed. doorway.

... and fixing it with a screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places on which the plates will fall, recesses can be made in advance with a perforator. The goal is to reach the wall material, beating off an unreliable plaster layer (if any), and to facilitate further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a "bare" opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be closed with finishing.

The rest of the preparation steps are no different from those about tosome of which were discussed above.

Installation and fastening of the window in doorway

Very carefully, in compliance with all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against the frame overturning outward, it is exposed in the window opening. If the opening is with quarters, then the frame should fit snugly against them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately set the frame in vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. You can give one good advice - temporarily fix the window approximately in the center from the top on the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved, and it will be much easier to work.

The level is set to the inner plane of the lower headroom of the frame - that's why the tool is preferable dlother 300 mm. The absence of blockage of the frame vertically is checked by applying the level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the required clearances on all sides and the correct position of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are definitely preferable, and if there is an opportunity to purchase them, then this will be the ideal option. They "work in pairs", engaging one another by means of fine teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to the other, you can set the desired height to the nearest millimeter.

You can, of course, do well with wooden wedges or pads, but often this requires cutting them, replacing them, installing several pieces with a "pyramid", etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can proceed to its fastening in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the "unpacking" method, experienced craftsmen often practice making a hole in the wall directly through the already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is perfectly acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% sure of the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the firmness of his hand. It happens that the drill of a perforator runs into an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not held, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole straight through the frame is dangerous enough

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a puncher, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case, you will have to put the window back in its previous position and wedge it, but with the drilled holes this will already be easy to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared slot ...

The anchor is inserted into the hole right through the frame, hammered down with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without "fanatical" effort, so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel nails are used, the plastic part is inserted first, and then the spacer nail is carefully driven in.

... followed by tightening

The heads of the fasteners are decorated with special plugs, for fidelity they are slightly lubricated from below with a drop of silicone sealant.

By installing the window on anchor plates, the process is even easier. They are finally given the desired bend so that they fit snugly to the surface of the window opening. Holes in the wall Ø 6 mm are drilled directly through their holes, into which dowel-nails are installed and driven.

Window installed using the "no unpacking" method

The standards define two fasteners per plate, although judging by numerous photographs on the Internet, many craftsmen are limited to one. Probably, nevertheless, with two - it is more reliable, and they are not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the plate bend simply does not allow installing two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing the window sill and ebb.

An important note - in the case when the installer decided in order to save ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive "household" mounting foam, you must first assemble the window - the installation of sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such foam has a very significant expansion force that can lead to even slight deformation - bending inside the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or closing the sash, which means that the window must be given "standard" rigidity before foaming.

Filling the openings with high-quality "professional" foam will not entail such consequences. Using a pistol with a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out upwards... In no case should there be any internal cavities - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which makes it possible to economically control its consumption. Particular attention is paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.

While the window is disassembled, nothing prevents you from controlling the filling of the openings with foam and from the outside, making certain adjustments if necessary. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

The assembly room is an excellent insulation, but very vulnerable. It must be protected from both sunlight and excessive moisture. This should be done immediately after it has completely hardened (in about a day), and the excess will be cut off.

If opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device of external slopes, which should completely hide the frozen foam layer from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. The solutions here can be different, for example, plastering or closing with panels.

But in any case, it is recommended to begin with covering the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free exit of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing moisture from entering from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, can be destructive when it freezes and expands.

And from the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow water to enter the insulation layer directly or steam from the inside. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another line of reliable thermal insulation.

Installation of a window sill and ebb

A. Installation of a window sill can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or foam, on special brackets or the same using self-made fasteners, made, for example, of straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized profiles for drywall.

Ideally, the sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitute profile. Sometimes the frame design itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically for mating with the plane of the window sill. If it is not there, then where the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedging from below for a tight adjoining to it.

To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram of the correct installation of the window sill and low tide is given. Pay attention to the location film membranes.

Consider the option of installing a window sill on foam, as one of the most widespread.

• Wedges are placed under the sill panel (again, adjustable plastic ones are better), with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account the slight deepening into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a hacksaw with a fine tooth.
• Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, they ensure that the panel, inserted into the slot intended for it on the frame or staging profile, occupies an exact horizontal position.
• Now the window sill must be loaded so that when the foam fills the space under it, it does not move from the set position. The load can be given by placing it on the window sill evenly along the entire length, for example, a container with water.

• The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with polyurethane foam. She will and thermal insulator, and will act as glue.
• It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

• If a small gap remains between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. Next is the installation of the ebb from the outside. An example circuit is shown in the figure.

The ebb attachment point is already covered vapor-permeable a membrane that completely covered the polyurethane foam. It is recommended to glue the PSUL strip along the plane of the opening - the ebb tide located at an angle will rest on it, which will create another barrier against moisture penetration from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitute profile with self-tapping screws 4 × 16, with a step of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted overlay, and then it makes sense to coat its edge with silicone sealant. But it is even better if its curved edge enters from below into a special groove of the staging profile - then you will not have to be afraid of penetration under the outflow of rainwater at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the wall plane on both sides by hollowing out the grooves for this. Then it will be easy to cover them with plaster.

Final assembly of the window

When the installation of the main elements is completed, it is necessary to bring the window to fully working state.

• Double-glazed windows are inserted into place, using those plastic linings that were originally installed. According to the numbering, glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The staple should sit exactly along the entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

• The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the sash opening and closing mechanism is immediately checked in all modes and its tightness to the frame.
• If necessary, an exact one is produced (how to do it - in a special portal article). If there is no need for adjustment, then the hinges are closed with decorative covers.

In fact, the window installation is complete. Only the issue of installation remained unsolved - but this is already a topic for separate consideration, which is also given attention on the pages of our portal.

In conclusion - detailed video instruction for installation metal-plastic windows... Read, see, evaluate your strength in order to make a decision - will it be feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it make sense to seek help from specialists?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

How to insert a glass unit into wooden house? It is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the building material: beams and logs have the ability to "sit down" due to inevitable drying out. Because of this, certain requirements must be observed when installing windows.

When can you put windows in a wooden house

The installation of windows in a wooden house can only be started after the initial completion of shrinkage.

After assembling the "box" itself, it usually takes at least six months before the start finishing works, and the windows are installed at the very end, when the main shrinkage is over.

However, in the future, the house will still "sit down", this process continues for at least 5-6 years.

In the first year, the shrinkage rate of a log house is approximately 3-5 cm for every three meters of wall height. That is, a two-storey building with a one-storey height of 3 m can drop by almost 10 cm in a year, and such changes cannot be ignored when installing window frames.

Both plastic and wooden frames are installed in wooden houses, each option has its own characteristics.

If the windows are left unprotected, then after one or two years the falling wall will begin to squeeze the frame: this will lead to its deformation. The window will be harder to open, over time it can generally jam.

When designing, it is imperative to take into account that the window opening must be several centimeters higher and wider than the required window size, this is necessary to install the casing (it is also called a window). It performs several functions:

• The box takes on the load, protecting the window frames from damage, while it will not allow the logs of the house to move.
• It strengthens the window opening and contributes to a more durable and reliable installation of windows.
• At the same time, thanks to a special fastening, it does not interfere with the shrinkage process. The box is installed so that a gap remains between it and the upper crown, which will gradually close. This allows all natural shrinkage processes to occur.

How to install a jig in a log house

Installing a window in a wooden house with a glass unit is not as difficult as it might seem. In such a building, you can install any frames: now more and more metal-plastic is chosen, which is supplied with decorative overlays that imitate wood. You can also choose wooden frames, this is an opportunity to create the most environmentally friendly house, the walls in which will be reliably protected from mold.

Wooden double-glazed windows in the house are installed using the most simple option wiggles: for this it is used wooden bar with a section of 50x50 mm. A groove of similar dimensions is made in a log or in a bar, and a cage is inserted into it. This eliminates the need for rigid fasteners that would interfere with the shrinkage process.

If you want to put reinforced-plastic windows, use a different casing option. In this case, a spike is made in the log (it is also called a comb), and a window carriage is already placed on it. Carriage - a bar with a section of 150 by 100 mm, at the ends, projections are cut out for horizontal bridges.

We install double-glazed windows in a wooden house: the first step is to create a casing. It is mounted as follows:

1. The lower lintel is mounted in the window opening.
2. The window ridge is lined with insulation, after which carriages are stuffed onto it. An important requirement: the carriages cannot be fixed with self-tapping screws or any other connecting elements, otherwise the casing box will become useless. It should provide the ability to calmly lower the logs as they dry.
3. From above, the carriages are closed with a jumper between it and the wall should remain at least 7-8 cm. The remaining space can be closed with boards or other material that can be gradually removed to free the opening for shrinkage. So that cold air does not penetrate through the gap, they are additionally covered with tow.

Further, double-glazed windows in wooden frames or in a plastic profile are installed according to the technology: they will be just as reliable and durable. Wooden windows in any case will have small gaps, this is provided by the design itself. Plastic windows will provide a completely sealed connection between the frame and the window sash.

Additional installation features

A window for wooden double-glazed windows should be installed in the windows in any case, even if the house has been assembled for a long time. Throughout its life, wood remains a living material that reacts noticeably to changes in humidity or temperature. Because of this, shrinkage will gradually continue, even if the building itself was built many years ago.

It is especially difficult for owners of old houses to make decisions. If it turned out that the house was built a long time ago, and there are no windows in it, you will either have to expand the window opening, which requires considerable effort and accuracy, or the glazing area will significantly decrease.

It will be necessary to install not only the casing, but also to re-close the gap between the frame and the wall with polyurethane foam. This is not only additional costs, but also big troubles associated with the search for specialists.

Put modern windows in a wooden house it is possible with full preservation of their reliability and functionality. But at the same time, it is necessary to comply with construction requirements, taking into account all the features of wood as a wall material. Buying a dried log or squared timber provides a significant reduction in shrinkage, but the house remains "alive" and some height changes will still occur.

Nowadays you will not surprise anyone - they have been installed for a long time and everywhere. Meanwhile, consumers constantly complain about poor quality work. It is logical to assume that unscrupulous installers are to blame. But the reality is not that simple.

Let us recall how the technological chain is built in the window business. Manufacturers of PVC system profiles supply their products to processing companies that manufacture and install windows.

A short video commentary on the choice of a profile for plastic windows: Which PVC profile is better?

At the same time, there is still no consensus on the technology of installing windows. The stumbling block was the assembly seam, or rather, the way of its execution.

Reference: mounting clearance - the space between the surface of the wall opening and the frame of the window (door) block. Assembly seam - an element of the junction unit, which is a combination of various insulating materials that are used to fill the mounting gap and have the specified characteristics. The definitions are taken from the current state standard GOST 30971-2002.

It would seem that there is normative documentation, which should be followed - GOST 30971-2002 “Seams of mounting assemblies for joining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions "and GOST R 52749-2007" Window assembly seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications". However, in accordance with Federal Law No. 184-FZ "On Technical Regulation" dated December 27, 2002, GOSTs, and with them SNiPs and other technical normative documents, have passed into the category of advisory literature. Only those standards that are directly related to safety are accepted for mandatory execution. And as a result, organizations involved in the installation of windows may legally fail to comply with the provisions of GOST 30971-2002 and GOST R 52749-2007. And if the client insists, he will be politely offered to pay double the amount.

However, the situation is not hopeless. The fact is that GOSTs become mandatory if it is written in the contract or project (that is, these documents indicate that the installation must be carried out according to the current state standards). On the other hand, if an organization does not recognize GOSTs, it still has to work according to some regulatory document that is accepted as mandatory within this organization. It's another matter if the client signs the contract without reading it. Unscrupulous companies are counting on this only. If a conflict arises over a poor-quality installation, the outraged client will be told approximately the following: “You yourself wanted all the windows in your house to be installed in one day, and gave your consent to all our actions!”.

Why do some window companies dislike the current (but, unfortunately, optional) regulatory documents? An explanation is needed here. GOST 30971-2002 and GOST R 52749-2007 prescribe to fill the assembly seam with heat-insulating assembly foam, and use a vapor-permeable self-expanding tape (PSUL) to protect it from the weather. To fulfill these requirements, you need to prepare the opening - level it, and fix the weak surfaces with a primer. But such preparation refers to general construction work, and window installers seem to have nothing to do with it. So they put the windows in the crooked openings. As a result, the mounting gaps have different widths, or even a zigzag shape. It becomes problematic to close such, so to speak, slots with tape. If PSUL cannot be applied, the assembly seam in extreme cases is plastered with a vapor-permeable weather-resistant composition based on cement (and in winter time - fast-setting cement-polymer mixture). Another option: the assembly seam is closed from the outside with a vapor-permeable waterproofing tape, and then a strip is installed (such products are included in the systems of all leading manufacturers of plastic windows).

Before ordering new windows, it is worth at least in general terms to study the features of their manufacture and installation. When communicating with employees of window companies, you need to clarify all controversial issues related to quality assurance installation works... And most importantly, you need to protect yourself in legal terms when concluding a contract. Be sure to insist on the inclusion of items related to regulatory framework... Any statements that the contract is standard and cannot be rewritten already indirectly indicate that not everything is in order with the norms in the company.

Particular attention must be paid to the installation of windows in winter:

If the windows were installed incorrectly and after a while puddles appeared on the window sills, or the slopes became damp and moldy, or the sash stopped opening, you must immediately file a claim and, if necessary, go to court. Effective support can be found in the Society for the Protection of Consumer Rights and expert organizations. Independent experts will figure out how technically justified are the regulatory documents (if these are not state standards), which were guided by the unlucky company that manufactured and installed the window. And besides, the consumer will receive an official opinion on the violations committed during the installation of the window structure. In court, this argument can be decisive. By the way, the chances of winning the case and getting the money back are very high.

The junction of the window block to the wall opening also includes a part of the enclosing structure, in the opening of which the window is mounted. For example, if you put a product with an installation depth of a box of 58 mm in the opening of a brick wall with a thickness of 2.5 bricks (610 mm), then in winter, under certain conditions (high humidity in the room, slightly warm radiators, poor ventilation) there is a high probability of freezing walls in the area of \u200b\u200bthe assembly seam. To prevent this from happening, you need to insulate the slopes. In this case, it is desirable to exclude the use of drywall. An air chamber forms under it, in which condensate actively accumulates. Moisture penetrates the plasterboard finish and destroys it. Better to use plastic slopes with insulating liners or sandwich panels. At the same time, it is advisable to install windows with a wide frame (120 mm) in brick walls, which ensures an increase in temperature on the inner slopes. Wherein window unit moves inside the room, the window niche is reduced, which improves the convection of warm air near the window surface. In addition, the assembly seam expands, which means that its resistance to heat transfer increases.

On the inside of the installation seam, lay a vapor barrier tape; it will not allow vapors to penetrate into the thermal insulation foam and prevent the formation of condensation, and hence the moisture of the insulation.

You should also make sure that the installation of the window itself is done correctly and the window will not fall out under wind loads.

And after everything that you have already read and looked at, let's move on to ourselves. typical mistakes installation of plastic windows:

	A quarter of the opening in the brick wall is uneven. As a result, when installing the window, a "ragged" gap was formed. The polyurethane foam was not protected in time. Under the influence of the sun, rain and snow, it gradually collapses.
	Here the polyurethane foam was cut off, and the seam was slightly painted with a sealant. It is clear that such sealing is of little use, and soon "foam insulation" will not be good.
	There is a disregard for the requirements of working with window acrylic sealant. Under external influence, it shrank and stratified. As a result, there was a depressurization of the assembly seam.
	There are no complaints about the window on the left. But next to it they installed a product that was not the size of the opening. Perhaps the wrong quarter is to blame. True, this defect would have been noticed and taken into account in the manufacture of the window. Another explanation is that the owners bought a ready-made window for the occasion. The gap was filled with polystyrene and foamed. At the same time, the glazing area of \u200b\u200bthe opening was reduced. In addition, the assembly seams remained open. If they are not closed, the thermal insulation will be destroyed.
	And this is an example of the “unheard-of generosity of installers. They not only applied sealant to the assembly seam, but at the same time “painted” the slopes. In other words, they disfigured an already not very aesthetic facade.
	With an impressive facade and an elegant window, a backing cord made of expanded polyethylene (like Vilatherm) does not fit. Such cheap insulation is made from recycled products. The material is also used for thermal insulation of window openings. In this case, the Vilatherm should be inside the assembly seam, and not protrude beyond its borders.
	Another example of a careless attitude towards polyurethane foam, which, apparently, was left in the care of the owners. In this case, the vertical seams are well done. Even the PSUL is glued.
	One can only wonder how barbarously the installers disposed of these openings. The old windows were torn out, new ones were installed in their place without preparation. And nobody cared about the seams and finishing of the slopes.
	Window hole left to fend for themselves. The steel lintel is rusted without proper finishing. the insulating liner fell out of the foam, and the polyurethane foam almost collapsed.
	The builders "forgot" to install the casing. When the log shrinks, the logs will put pressure on the frame, which can lead to difficult opening of the sashes, deformation of the profile and even destruction of glass units.
	... If you buy a low-quality product, then instead of a dense, fine-pored filling, you will get such a "fluff". It is better not to take risks and buy foam of proven brands in stores and supermarkets.
	And in this case, the insidious condensate "tried". True, the windows have nothing to do with it. Obviously, the owners decided to force things and started finishing the house in winter. In a waterlogged atmosphere, with insufficient ventilation and not yet debugged heating, condensation moisture accumulated on cold slopes, which provoked the appearance of mold.
	When installing, take into account the thermal expansion of the PVC profile. This window is out of luck. Probably, the fasteners were placed too low (the norm is at least 15-18 cm from inner corners boxes). The block was installed at a positive 20 ° C temperature. The cold snap caused the plastic to shrink and the profile ruptured as a result.
	So that the metal ebb does not rattle when it rains, it is laid on polyurethane foam. But without proper protection from the sun and atmospheric moisture, soundproofing will soon turn to dust.
	The window was placed not on special mounting wedges (and not even on wooden "chumps"), but directly on two layers of polystyrene, "glued" with polyurethane foam. The window block will sag under its own weight. And the "defenseless" stand will collapse.
	The installers repaired the seams, but left a hole at low tide. Through it, water will penetrate into the seam, and then drain onto the slopes. Until the owners figure out what's the matter.
	The builders forgot to install steel drip tides to effectively drain the precipitation. However, perhaps they acted at the behest of short-sighted owners or, even worse, an architect ignorant of such matters. The consequences were not slow to make themselves felt. Water, as you know, wears away a stone. Decorative cladding slopes have already cracked here and there. The glass units are not washed by warm air (standard radiators cannot be installed under the windows). As a result, they fog up even at positive temperatures.
	This opening was treated cruelly. Not only did they fill everything they could with a very strange liquid foam, they still did not remove the streaks from the window frame and wall. And most importantly, the thermal insulation of the window opening is not provided.

The installation of new plastic windows certainly requires special attention, since if the installation technology is violated, the desired result will not be achieved. Although the windows themselves can be of very high quality, the method of installation and the materials used in the embedding have a significant impact on the overall efficiency of a new product. On what to manage to create and maintain comfortable temperature conditions in your house or apartment, and even at any time of the year, you can only hope if the waterproofing of the plastic windows is correctly done during installation.

Preliminary waterproofing of PVC windows

With a huge number building materials very few of them are successfully used for waterproofing plastic windows. Often, waterproofing is performed only partially or some time after the installation of windows, or the sealing of slopes and window sills is generally postponed indefinitely.

Advantages and disadvantages of polyurethane foam

It is generally accepted that after the installation of windows, the voids between the window frame and the opening are filled with polyurethane foam. And this is logical, since foam has a number of advantages:

• unpretentious to the nature and quality of the mating surfaces;
• insulates the room well;
• performs tight sealing;
• protects against unnecessary noise;
• successfully takes over and distributes mechanical stress for a long time;
• compensates for the wind load.

On a note: Today you simply cannot find something more convenient and more effective than foam for performing the initial stage of window installation. This must be admitted.

But it turns out that polyurethane foam alone cannot constantly cope with the effects of weather factors and after some time, even after a few years, it can begin to lose its properties. Here's what can happen to this sealing material if it is not protected from the outside by anything:

1. Open polyurethane foam under the influence of ultraviolet radiation after a certain period begins to darken and crumble.
2. Foam is not a waterproofing agent in the literal sense, which means that it itself must be protected, especially from the freezing of precipitation in the winter season.
3. Dry foam slightly changes its initial volume when the temperature changes during the day and with the change of seasons. Such volume fluctuations, especially with a foam layer thickness of 8-10 cm, can occur in the range of 5% or more. The minimum change in size, depending on the outside temperature, is also characteristic of the plastic window box itself. As a result of regular compression-expansion cycles, this can lead to the appearance of technological gaps. , cracks and penetration of through air flows . This drawback most often makes itself felt when the installation of the window was made without using a rigid mechanism for attaching the frame to the wall.

Common waterproofing options

In order to prevent the foam from turning into powder under the influence of direct sunlight, frost and water after preliminary waterproofing of PVC windows, carried out by means of polyurethane foam, it is advisable to plaster the outer slopes as soon as possible after installing the windows, applying at least a minimum layer of cement-sand mortar on them or other plaster for outdoor use. The plaster will precisely prevent direct rays from hitting the foam and will protect it, although not completely, from moisture and drafts.

There is another simple option for sealing - the joint between the window and the wall from the outside of the window, right along the surface of the foam, can be treated with silicone sealant for outdoor use. For some time it can really be an obstacle to moisture, but in harsh weather conditions, the sealant layer will have to be replaced with a new one from time to time.

Complex methods of waterproofing plastic windows

Waterproofing using special tapes

Let's consider how a more reliable and somewhat more complex version of the waterproofing of plastic windows looks like. To prevent the penetration of unnecessary moisture into the living space and protect the foam from destruction, it is necessary to take care of something even at the stage of installing the windows. What are we talking about? Let's consider in order:

• before starting the installation of the window, a pre-prepared self-expanding sealing tape made on the basis of polyurethane (PSUL) is glued around the perimeter of the outer edge (not the end) of the frame. This material is impregnated with additives that allow it to maintain its elasticity for a long time. PSUL, if desired, instead of a frame, can be attached to the window opening itself, to that part of it that will be in contact with the outer face of the plastic profile;

• butyl rubber waterproofing tape is applied to the end of the window frame around the perimeter, after which the frame is mounted in the opening, by securely attaching it to the surface of the slopes with suspensions;

• at the next stage, if the distance from the opening to the frame is significant, you can glue the same waterproofing tape on the wall. This will serve as additional protection from moisture itself and moist air penetrating through the wall;

• only after gluing the protective tapes from the outside and at the end (possibly along the wall) is the frame blown out with foam. With this installation technology, fresh foam can only expand into the interior of the room, since the outer edge is protected by PSUL, which prevents foam from coming out. In this case, the expandable sealing tape will protect the polyurethane foam layer from the damaging effects of UV radiation during the entire service life of the window;

• now we are waiting for the fresh foam by expansion to fill the entire volume of the near-window cavities and harden. After the foam sealant finally dries up, the excess protruding into the interior of the room must be carefully cut off with a sharp construction knife;

• then the slopes are finished at the discretion of the owner. It can be done with cement mortar, putty mixtures, drywall, plastic and even ceramic tiles. It depends on the nature of the premises and the customer's requirements;

• after the end of the main amount of finishing work with slopes, the angle formed between the window frame and the slope can be treated with a waterproof sealant, finally blocking the access of moisture and outside air to the room. A thin layer of sealant will hide the micro-damage that appears at the joints as a result of the expansion of the frame due to changing temperature conditions.

Waterproofing using water repellents and liquid rubber

In recent years, the use of water repellents has been gaining popularity - compounds of an organic nature that include silicon and have water-repellent properties.

A solution of a water repellant is applied to the surface to be treated, as a result of which a hydrophobic film forms on it, which does not prevent air penetration, but prevents moisture from entering the room. The film is invisible to the eyes, does not spoil general form and is able to perform its function for a long time.

In similar situations, liquid rubber can be used, consisting of a two-part cold-type mastic made on bitumen. It has been successfully used on concrete, wood, stone and even metal surfaces. The material is characterized by high elasticity and excellent waterproofing properties. Its price is quite high, therefore, only those who really value reliability and quality and are ready to make financial sacrifices for it can be placed on it.

It is possible that very soon new universal and even more reliable means for protecting plastic windows from moisture and drafts will appear on the building materials market, but for now, the skillful use of existing means already provides excellent results.

Video about sealing and waterproofing windows

Sealing plastic windows is a process of processing internal and external seams, which allows you to get rid of gaps and cracks through which cold air enters and warm air exits. Sealing of windows is an integral part of repair work and is carried out at the stage of cosmetic finishing of the window opening.

The tightness of modern plastic windows is ensured by seals, additional sealants (polyurethane foam, etc.). Special rubber gaskets, often of a tubular shape, act as seals in window structures. They are installed in the space between the frame and the sashes, along the entire perimeter of the window.

Seals are designed to protect the structure from moisture penetration, cold air, dust, noise. Manufacturing is made from specialized rubber intended exclusively for such purposes. Often, silicone or rubber plastic can be used instead of rubber. Among all these materials, it is silicone that is most intended for use in areas of sharp temperature changes, especially in areas with a rather cold climate, since only silicone has a consistency that does not allow it to harden from exposure to low temperatures.

The most common are window designs in which two sealing circuits are involved at once. One contour is located on the inside, the other is oriented to the street. In luxury metal-plastic windows, three sealing circuits can be involved, which significantly increases the level of soundproof sealing of such a window (however, it has practically no effect on other indicators technical characteristics). It is this narrow focus, coupled with the increased cost, that makes the use of a third seal rather ineffective and unpopular.

In addition to seals, another method of sealing metal-plastic window structures is also used. This method consists in the so-called blowing of all joints and gaps between the wall and the surface of the window frame with polyurethane foam. Among the advantages of this method of sealing, we can confidently name the following: availability of use and low pricing policy, the ability to uniformly distribute and receive quite serious wind and other mechanical loads, good thermal insulation, additional safety net of the window structure from distortion and damage.

However, the inept and excessive use of this method is fraught with not very pleasant consequences:

1. Polyurethane foam quickly collapses or deforms under the influence of sunlight and a large amount of moisture. It must be protected from light with a layer of paint or plaster, and water-repellent paint and silicone sealant will perfectly protect it from moisture.

2. Not very experienced foam users often forget to cut off dried excess. This is fraught with the possibility of deformation of the base layer, and, moreover, produces an extremely unaesthetic sight.

3. Not so long ago it became known that under the influence of temperature, even a long and reliably dried polyurethane foam can change in the total volume (from 5% to 10%). As a result of this periodic change in volume, with a joint width of approximately 10 cm, the so-called "walking" of the window box (in the region of 5 mm) is noticed, and this, in turn, can lead to a violation of the integrity of the action of the locking mechanisms of the window fittings. The window, depending on the weather conditions of the current season, may either not open or, on the contrary, not close. It can also damage the surface layer of the plaster adjacent to the window. In accordance with this, the installation of a window on foam cannot fully prevent the construction of the window frame from expanding directly with foam, and is not able to provide rigid fastening of the PVC window in the opening.

To avoid many problems, it is recommended to seal the entire outer seam between the wall and the frame surface. If it is possible to open the window sashes, then it is more than possible to reach the seams, but when this is not possible, it would be best to seal the seam immediately before installing the double-glazed windows.

To date, the ideal sealant for window structures has not yet been invented. The main difficulty, according to many experts, lies in the fact that the surface of the wall adjacent to the window is mostly uneven. In addition, there is another pressing problem - a skewed opening, which becomes the reason that the width of the seam located at different places of the joint can often fluctuate in the region of 5 cm.If such a phenomenon is observed, it is recommended to first plaster and then paint, in order to giving maximum elasticity, the seam located at the junction with the frame. For a relatively flat opening, the seam width in which does not exceed 15 mm, it makes sense to seal with silicone sealant, you can also use a polyurethane (self-expanding) sealing tape (also PSUL). This method is quite effective and technologically advanced, but at the same time very expensive. The use of PSUL for the most part makes sense only for sealing canopies, in the case of glazing balconies and loggias. Due to the low cost, as well as due to the high adhesion in relation to concrete, in other cases the best option will use silicone paste sealants.