Typical mistakes gardeners make in their garden. Flowering treatments
When you come to your favorite plot, take good care of the plants, water, fertilize, and as a result, the harvest is poor, you involuntarily wonder, what am I doing wrong?
There are several of the most common mistakes that summer residents make that require immediate correction.
Water with cold or warm water? Most summer residents like to water the beds in their area with water from a well. And everyone knows that she's just icy. As a result, the root system of the plant rots, which leads to their death. But if the weather turned out to be cool (spring-autumn), then cold water it is not advisable to water young plants.
It is better if the water stands a little outside in a barrel, bucket, and its temperature is slightly higher.
But in summer, when the soil is very hot, you can also water it with cold water. Until the cold water reaches the level of the roots, it will become normal in temperature.
The main and most common reason for a poor harvest is that summer residents planting vegetables in the same garden bed. That is, if a summer resident planted eggplants in one part of the plot and then received a fairly large harvest, then he thinks that this place is perfect for eggplants and begins to plant them there constantly.
This is not at all the case. After years of growing eggplants in the same area, they gradually decrease their yield. Because the soil begins to grow poorer and various pests and diseases start in it, which like to feast on the same vegetables that grow from year to year.
A regular crop rotation will help to avoid such problems. One crop can be grown in one area only once every 2-3 years.
To increase yields, many summer residents apply various organic (and mineral) fertilizers to the soil. But here, too, there are rules that many summer residents do not take into account or simply do not know.
So, for example, fertilizing in early spring is useless, since the roots are still dormant and various nutrients from the soil are absorbed in small quantities. For fertilization, you should wait until the soil temperature rises to at least 10 ° C.
I would like to say a few words about liquid fertilizers. In no case should they be introduced into dry soil, otherwise they can cause great harm to the roots of plants in the form of a burn.
It should be said that fertilizers can also do great harm if you apply too much of them to the soil. But some summer residents love their garden so much and take such care of their plants that they do not notice how they oversaturate the soil with fertilizers. Plants in such cases begin to either fatten and bear fewer fruits, or dry out completely.
In addition, the fruits begin to gradually accumulate nitrates, phosphates and many other chemical elements that are present in fertilizers that are harmful to humans.
Better to use natural, organic fertilizers (compost, humus, green infusions), which improve the microflora of the soil and do not disturb the balance between plant nutrition and the accumulation of substances in the fruits.
Most summer residents take soil from their own plot for fresh seedlings. At the same time, a greater number of seedlings begin to die due to infection with diseases and pests. Therefore, it is worth disinfecting the soil by warming up before planting seedlings or taking fresh ready-made mixtures for seedlings. For example, I steam the soil in the oven and then add some purchased peat to it to make it loose, moisture-absorbing and breathable.
For the May holidays, gardeners will rush to their dachas. There are many things to do and I want to do everything at once. AiF.ru turned to an experienced agronomist and breeder Mikhail Vorobyov with a request to tell about the most common mistakes that summer residents make.
Do not overstrain
Even the founder of jogging, American Paul Bragg said: "Do not pounce on jogging the same way a bull pounces on a closed gate." The same thing I would like to advise gardeners and gardeners. Doing everything and immediately will not work, believe my many years of experience. The body is not trained after winter, therefore, various injuries are possible, up to a back break. Therefore, if possible, work in a weightlifter's belt. This is a common wide belt that athletes use to maintain their health during training. And yet, try not to be constantly in the position of the letter "G" - this is a huge load on the lumbar vertebrae.
Don't pass by
If you have beds that you have not sown with anything yet, do not pass by. Like, I will return to them in a week and on May 9 I will plant something here. Forget it. Now there is a strong heating of the soil ahead of schedule, respectively, quite strong evaporation of precious snow moisture, which is still saturating our soil. Your task is to preserve this moisture. To do this, cover the bed with leaves or dry grass. If nothing like this is at hand, use an agronomic technique called "spring moisture closure." To do this, use a rake to level the top layer and break up the lumps. This will stop the evaporation of moisture from the soil and destroy weeds for a while. And until you decide what to plant in an empty garden, repeat this procedure.
Don't whiten trees
If you didn't manage to whiten fruit trees in late February - early March, you do not need to do this now.
Although hundreds of gardeners stubbornly do this useless job. Wait until late autumn.
Don't burn the grass
Most summer residents want to immediately put things in order on the site and begin to burn dry grass. It is harmful. Firstly, the top layer of the soil heats up strongly, respectively, all humic substances (organo-mineral substances responsible for soil fertility) decompose. At the same time, a huge number of insects are killed, the existence of which we do not even suspect. And they are part of the ecosystem, and if we have destroyed them, then something (by the domino effect) may happen. For example, due to the lack of the usual food, birds will fly away.
Secondly, it is fire hazardous! The fire can spread to nearby buildings and forest. Use last year's herb for mulching or as an organic fertilizer.
Hold the seedlings
If your seedlings were on the balcony, they managed to get used to the sun's rays. Such seedlings take root normally. But if she grew up in an apartment on a window, behind curtains and double-glazed windows, or in a greenhouse, she needs time to adapt to ultraviolet light.
When you bring such seedlings to the cottage, then the first day it must be kept in the shade of a fence or at home. Then we gradually increase the sunbathing and transfer the pots under the bush, in the openwork shade, then we plant and, just in case, breaking branches with leaves, we surround the seedlings with a fence. To have a shadow for some time. With these simple procedures, you will help the plant adapt and not burn itself.
Bought but not forgotten!
Let's say you bought a lot of open-root seedlings. The most common mistake is that, having purchased a batch of seedlings, they are loaded into the trunk or tied to the roof of the car and directly in this form are taken to the dacha. Upon reaching our destination, we see a disastrous situation. Instead of healthy seedlings, a person brings brushwood, since the wind has dried the root system to the ground.
It is important for us that the roots are constantly in a humid environment. How to create it? You can take wet sawdust, put them in a plastic bag and lower the root system of the seedling there, tying the bag tightly. In this form, it will last 2-4 days. At worst, wrap the roots with a damp cloth. When you find yourself in the country, place the roots in a bucket or barrel of water at least overnight. Let them feed before landing.
Don't take tulips and seedlings with leaves
Of course, at the sight of seedlings with leaves, it seems that this is good. The plant is growing. But from the point of view of nursery, seedlings with an open root system, with awakened buds and leaves, is a marriage. The probability of their survival is very low. They dry out quickly.
In addition, now "good" sellers who did not manage to sell tulips, hyacinths and daffodils in autumn are actively selling them. With the wording that if you did not have time to plant them in the fall, now is the best time... No, not the best! They, of course, will not die, but they will definitely not bloom this year. Therefore, they cannot be considered as full-fledged bulbs, they can be regarded as "babies" that cost two to three times cheaper. Consider this if you go to the bazaar.
Today we will talk about how gardeners themselves prevent nature from growing rich crops on their own plots.
Striving to get good harvest pushes most people to seek new farming methods. At the same time, everyone forgets that most of these methods violate the natural laws of nature.
The reason is simple. These methods were deduced by academics. Academics, sitting in their academies, do something wise in laboratories and give out the latest achievements of science and technology. Otherwise, what would they receive financial allowance for?
It is possible that at first you will get good results using these methods. But very soon nature will take revenge on you for your disrespectful attitude. Every year you will have to invest more and more of your own labor to get the desired result. You turn into a voluntary "slave" of your own garden.
We will build our own, we will build a new world
The other day our colleague called us and shared one comment: “I never would have thought that in order to get on my personal plot best harvest for all my "dacha career", I just need to stop straining in the beds and trust nature. "First thought: “This is nonsense! Nothing is clear…"
Therefore, we asked for more detailed information. Here's what we learned about the actions of caring gardeners that lead to exhausting work and low yields.
All their lives, most gardeners:
1. They diligently dig their own garden, as if hoping to find a treasure
"Dig, dig and dig again" - learned men from agricultural science bequeathed to all gardeners.
Thoughtlessly sticking a shovel into the soil and turning over layers, you make life difficult not only for your garden crops, but also for yourself.
It never even occurs to anyone that digging up violates the natural habitat of microorganisms that are so necessary for your plants. Microorganisms die, and you have to carry bags of chemical "fertilizers" from the store to make up for them.
It is necessary to cultivate the soil, but do not dig - loosen by 5-7 cm... The fact is that she is a living organism, and digging is destructive for her. Therefore, instead of a traditional shovel, I recommend equipping yourself with a ripper, whatever. This could be:
- manual cultivator with undercut blade;
- pololnik Strizh;
- shovel Kuzmich;
- hoe;
- hoe;
- fokin's flat cutter.
2. Persistently quench the thirst of the soil, instead of retaining the moisture present in it
Many hours and daily water procedures familiar to every gardener. A bucket and a hose have long become a symbol of summer holidays for them, and attempts to pump a nearby lake to their site are the meaning of their whole life.
Have you ever thought that it is easier and more reliable to preserve what you have than to engage in artificial reclamation, suitable only for urban lawns? DO NOT water, but mulch!
You can mulch (cover) the soil with mowed grass and weeds or an 8-10 centimeter layer of peat. True, in peat - since it is sour - it is worth adding ash at the rate of a couple of glasses of ash to a bucket of peat.
By the way, for mulching, you can use ordinary newspapers, folded in several layers. Modern newspapers are photographed, so they do not have lead-based ink.
Mulch:
- inhibits the growth of perennial weeds and prevents annuals from sowing seeds;
- retains moisture in the soil, preventing it from evaporating from the surface (plants manage to take no more than 20-25% of water during watering, the rest is evaporated from the soil by the sun and dry air, especially in windy weather);
- at night, dew falls out under any mulch due to the temperature difference on its upper and lower sides, and the soil absorbs this dew.
3. Arrange general cleaning of their garden, turning it into a park of "culture and recreation"
Try to answer a simple question: "Do you need beauty or a rich harvest?" Of course, the admiring glances of neighbors at your site, which is just right for excursions, bring many pleasant minutes and a feeling of pride. BUT pleasant moments will be forgotten, and out of a “sense of pride” you will hardly be able to make preparations for the winter.So maybe you shouldn't be so zealous to put things in order on your site, but let Mother Nature itself take care of the soil in a natural way and without your active intervention?
But how, then, to fight the weeds - these natural children of nature, whom she has awarded with incredible vitality? After all, other things being equal, in the struggle for existence, weeds will prevail over cultivated plants.
To avoid weeding in the beds, it is necessary after harvesting immediately cover the soil with opaque material... Non-woven covering materials are best suited for this purpose: black spunbond or lutrasil itself high density... It can be secured with poles, slate nails or staples made of wire, or at worst, stones so that the wind does not blow away.
However, you can cover the beds with cardboard or newspapers folded in 5-6 layers, making sure that the wind does not rip them off until spring. The beds are left covered until planting seedlings or sowing seeds.
A light-proof layer on the soil surface will not allow perennial weeds to survive without light, and any mulch will prevent seeds weeds get on the soil and germinate. If you need to free some place from perennial weeds, cover it with opaque material for a couple of years - and they will end.
In the spring, before sowing, in the evening, water the beds with water directly over the shelter. If they are covered with cardboard, remove it, water the soil and re-lay the cardboard. In the morning, remove the cover, loosen the soil shallowly, make seed furrows with the edge of the board, leaving no large distances between the furrows to prevent weeds from settling in empty space.
What to do?
Everyone knows the question. Very often he remains unanswered. In our case, the answer is!
Organic farming
Since the beginning of the 20th century, many agronomists, biologists and farmers around the world began to abandon the treatment of plantings with chemical fertilizers and pesticides, as well as plowing the land, as they noticed that this leads to the degeneration of the soil and crops growing on it.This approach to agriculture is called organicand is aimed primarily at increasing the natural fertility of the soil. That is, the land is not plowed or watered, but is specially prepared for planting plants. For fertilization, organic residues are used, and biological methods of protection are used against pests. By 2007, about 30.5 million hectares on Earth were already used in accordance with the principles of organic agriculture.
Nature itself will not tell anything
Many people cannot understand the language of nature. But there are people who have made friends with nature. It was to them that she revealed her secrets. Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima is one of those people.Watch the video (it will take you less than 1 minute). By the way, do not forget to turn on the sound)))
Do you want to know what you need to learn from nature in order to “work hard” less and get better results?
Everyone is mistaken, and summer residents are no exception. It takes a lot of physical effort and time to grow vegetables and fruits. In addition, this activity is very costly, so it is better to foresee all the nuances and avoid mistakes that can cause poor yields. Starting to engage in the maintenance of a country house, it is impossible to learn everything at once. Therefore, you should listen to the advice of professionals, look for useful information and acquire the necessary experience and skills. Here are the most common mistakes novice summer residents make.
Autumn soil fertilization
Most vegetable crops, bearing fruit during the season, together with the harvest, take out many useful substances from the soil, which leads to its depletion. In this regard, fertilizing the soil in the autumn period has a very great importance... This is needed to help perennial plants transfer wintering. However, it should be remembered that overfeeding the soil is just as harmful as not feeding it. Therefore, you need to fertilize it wisely. First, you need to consider what plants will be planted on the site next season. And secondly, for each wintering plant, the dose of nutrients must be determined individually.The favorite dacha fertilizer is manure, which has a very useful composition for plants. However, it should be used with caution. In particular, fresh manure can even be harmful, causing plants to burn. It is much more expedient to apply it rotted. This fertilizer can be applied at any time, but without much surplus.
Crop rotation
Many summer residents plant vegetable crops from year to year in the same place. As a result, the yield is significantly reduced, or even disappears altogether. Why is this happening? Studies have shown that plants of the same species are capable of accumulating harmful poisons in the ground that inhibit the growth of these same plants. As a result, vegetables start to hurt, late blight appears, and the soil is gradually depleted. That is why it is so important to observe crop rotation, which implies a change in planting sites for vegetable crops.In addition, it will help to achieve good yields and deal with pests. mixed fit cultures that can get along with each other. However, one should be well versed in its intricacies and features.
Improper watering of plants
Watering is a very important and crucial moment in the care of cultivated plants. Therefore, it is so important to carry it out correctly and in a timely manner, because it is from him that in most cases the yield on the site depends. Without water, most vegetable crops wither quickly, and sometimes even cease to bear fruit. What are the watering rules? The most common mistake in this regard is watering in hot and sunny weather. This is especially true for cold well waterwhich can cause real stress in plants. You should not pour water on the green foliage of plants in the heat. The fact is that water droplets on the surface of leaves are able to concentrate sun rays, and this is fraught with severe burns for them.Shelter too early
Some summer residents leave their plot immediately after harvesting, so they try to shelter some plants from the winter cold in advance. This is a very common mistake that can cause significant damage to trees and shrubs. The fact is that condensation forms under the shelter, which can cause their diseases, as well as a good environment for the life of some insects. That is why it is necessary to cover plants immediately before the onset of cold weather, and not in advance.It is advisable to properly monitor your site and avoid such mistakes. After all proper care for cultivated plants, their timely watering and feeding will help to get a good rich harvest.
The past year has become a definitive turning point in my views and attitude to the earth. As the saying goes, life is just beginning in retirement. I am firmly convinced that organic farming has a great future.
So where did it all start. Succumbing to fashionable advertising about drip irrigation, I bought all the necessary elements, installed plastic containers. Covered with a "drop" 7 hectare of the garden in 2015. I planted seeds, vegetable seedlings, potatoes. Watering was carried out at night, and in the daytime, in good faith with a hoe, he rushed through the beds, removed weeds in the aisles. Seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants were covered with a shade protective net.
Water tanks - tonne plastic tanks with metal frameinstalled one on top of the other. In the daytime, the upper container in the sun warmed the water, in the evening the water poured into the lower one. In a word, watering was carried out only with warm water. And early in the morning, water was pumped from the well from a depth of 12 m and irrigation continued as needed. It is enough just to open the tap on the next drip tape - and that's it: walk around, fight pests. However, not everything is as simple as it seems at first glance.
The harvest, as it were, was not bad. But the tomatoes tasted a bit sour. They were missing something. No, they weren't sick. Fruited before frost. But the feeling was that the plants wanted to say something. And in the evening at the end of July, he began to realize that he had done a lot of mistakes. But the one who does nothing does not make mistakes. In an instant I regained my sight when I saw cracks in the ground between the rows. The cracks were quite deep - the ground seemed to sob from my agricultural technology.
There is an obvious defect here that the climate began to change around 2002, and the approaches to the land remained old. Although the neighbors were jealous of drip irrigation, shade canopy, harvests of vegetables, raspberries and grapes, I still had the feeling that something had been done wrong. And so, accidentally finding himself at the post office, he took the newspaper Senior Tomato and, in his free time from gardening, read a couple of articles and began to realize that everything was lost. Began to study useful material... I bought 50 varieties of tomatoes, flowers, spicy crops from experienced gardeners, and 2016 announced the year of work on mistakes.
Working with tomatoes
TO work on bugs pushed tomatoes... I think that each of us has come across the purchase of seedlings in the market. Our market in Bakhmut is especially chic. Doubtful vegetable growers sell any varieties and hybrids of vegetables. But most importantly, you don't need to ask. The varieties are available on handwritten plates. And if you ask, they will definitely offer something. They will mutter in their own language, which we do not understand, and that's it - take it.
Well, I found almost everything. It remains to pick up plum tomatoes. I found them too. In the evening, in the cold, they planted. By all the rules: what is under the film in the greenhouse Snowdrop, others - in the greenhouse (indeterminate varieties), and undersized - just in the garden.
After the seedlings began, I made a pergola from a wire at a height of about 2 m. The result is such a nice green Chinese mesh canopy. In the heat it helps and it is very good. No overheating, less moisture evaporates. And it’s comfortable to sit and just relax in the shade. The size of the shading mesh is 5 × 12 m.
And then the fruits began to be tied. Ostensibly undersized varieties flooded in height, and where should the cream be
- grew in size like melons. So that the stems do not lie on the ground, I begin to tie it up with a twine to the wire. I think they really fatten
- overfed. No, the fruits are beginning to ripen, the stepsons drove away. He began to remove the stepsons, put them in the water - after a week, roots appeared. God, I was surprised, but they also multiply. The question arose by itself: why did you buy so many seedlings then? The answer is also simple: we do not need 400 pieces and one hundred is quite enough.
After a heavy rain in the garden there is nothing to do so as not to tamp the soil, for several days I did not go there. I went out and gasped - the grid bent, because I made 5 m spans between the posts to support the grid. And the tomatoes became heavy and pulled the net down. I had to urgently put up the supports from the poles.
Changing attitudes towards the land
Finally, the harvest is harvested and the products are processed - Autumn, but climatic changes continue and present us with new surprises.
I decided to sit down to books. Though it is a shame - to work through all my conscious life in the seed production of vegetable and melon crops and to make mistakes. For 8 years I have books by Nikolai Kurdyumov. I flipped through them, but there was not enough time to concentrate. And I read it. Began to compare with episodes in work.
And what happens: we - agricultural workers, all the time harmed the earth, brought it to exhaustion, with chemistry we killed soil micro- and macro-inhabitants. Plowmen were punished for shallow plowing, but they (the bunglers) had to be given medals for shallow tillage. In those areas, yields were higher. And what to do - we, Soviet agronomists, were taught that way. And at the same time they forced subordinates to cut one size fits all. As the French say: rulers rake in the heat with someone else's hands. More precisely, they drag chestnuts out of the fire.
After making fun of the land in the manner described above, he decided to make amends and to work hard on soil fertility. The "offensive" began on all fronts. Realizing that the main pest in the garden is a man, he determined the main ways of non-interference in the work of nature.
The first commandment is not to dig. On the beds, in the winter, everything that remained was pruned with a sharp hoe. Many people use the vaunted Fokin flat cutter, attributing to it multifunctionality. In my opinion, this is advertising. My hoe is made from the famous Druzhba-2 saw, with a long grip, and is sharply sharpened. Without bending into three deaths, it is convenient to work with such a tool and perform no less number of operations than a plane cutter can.
In addition to farming, my hobby is fur farming. One of my hobbies is rabbits. Yes, rabbits are not only valuable fur. These are the manufacturers of the analogue of Trichodermin. And Trihodvrmin, many know, suppresses phytophthora. Proven in trials - rabbit manure is very valuable for crop production. The cages for my animals have bunkers for accumulating manure, and in the fall I use it as mulch. First, I mulched the garlic with a layer of about 8 cm, then I made the same layer in the greenhouse.
I believe that one of the commandments of a vegetable grower should be the principle of complete refusal to use any chemistry on his site and, of course, mineral fertilizers... Using chemicals kills all living things. And this is not in our interests. We stopped digging the ground, as we want to increase the number of soil biota and, ultimately, accelerate the rate of organic processing. The use of mineral fertilizers can affect the acid-base balance of the soil. Over the past years, we have buried enough of all unnecessary things in the ground. Now let this treasure go to archaeologists after us.
Tomatoes prefer a slightly neutral soil with a pH of 6.9-7.3. Theorists propose to determine such parameters either by a laboratory method - by taking samples in various places in the garden from a depth of 30 cm, or by using litmus paper. Everything is made much easier. It must be firmly remembered that phacelia, as a green manure, perfectly neutralizes the earth. I think the preliminary preparation of the soil for tomatoes should include such a technique. And organic matter has not prevented anyone yet.
Redevelopment of the site
Due to the fact that my site has a rectangular shape of 15 × 75 m and is located from north-east to south-west, I have to make beds in the same direction. Width about a meter. Any length. Passages between the beds are also about a meter. Straightness is ensured with twine.
Crop residues naturally remain in place. And the more organic, the better. Therefore, immediately after harvesting, spring crops should be sown as green manure. It is very convenient to use barley, oats. With the onset of frost, the plants will droop, remain lying on the ground. Over time, this straw will be converted by soil inhabitants into vermicompost.
My shovel is now rusting. It is practically unnecessary. Only for planting seedlings, loading operations and for making warm beds. Yes, the shovel still has one important purpose - this is an umbrella. It turns out that there is a big shadow from the big shovel.
In the wake of inspiration, I decided to make a warm bed. The length turned out to be 5 m, width 1 m, depth - 2 bayonets of the shovel. The filling was cuttings from trees, grapes, hay, straw and paper. A thin layer of soil was poured on top, then rabbit manure 10 cm and again a small layer of earth from the upper layer. So the bed went into the winter.
On the west side of the greenhouse, an old garden disappeared. These are apple trees damaged by a bark beetle and densely planted by the previous owners of the site. Therefore, only out of love for tomatoes, I had to cut the garden. It turned out a good plot of 7 × 15 m.I marked 6 strips on it and also applied manure on the surface for future tomato beds. No land cultivation was carried out on this site. There were no weeds here, only a few low stumps remained. Let them remain as resting places. Then they will rot and I will remove them.
This was the end of the autumn epic - winter began. She, of course, came, as always unexpectedly. Well, do not drive her away now ... Some do not like the cold, unsettled life and other inconveniences. And I like the winter: I like to go skiing, read the tracks on the newly fallen snow, feed the birds, which, as a sign of gratitude, will begin to destroy pests in the summer. There used to be a fashionable expression: to look at everything through the prism of partisanship. So, if you look at snow through the prism of vegetable growing, then it is moisture. And the more moisture falls in winter, the less in summer have to water.
I throw snow into the greenhouse. This is not a big deal. In the greenhouse, before adding snow, I covered the beds with agrofibre. So far, there was little to do in the garden - I ordered seeds of tomatoes, flowers and started a special observation log for experiments. For future tomatoes, I cut pipes, bought wire and made a sketch of a canopy.
I actually imagined how the tapestries would look like. I like tall tomatoes more, which is why everything is so complicated. But this is only at the beginning, experience and skill will come with time. The main thing is to get involved in the battle. I selected varieties of tomatoes by sonorous names. I think I'll try. And which ones will show themselves better, I will opt for those in the future.
Multipurpose use of rabbit manure
By February 1, the snow on the warm bed simply disappeared, and shoots of barley and wheat appeared throughout the area. During the day it was warmer, at night the frost reached 8'C. But the greenery was actively growing. The thing is that the rabbits are playing pranks and part of the food is lost.
Since it is impossible to feed with crushed grain, I feed only with whole mixtures. And here you are - another benefit of manure. The greens went into action. He began to feed the female rabbits with the babies with greens. It's just great - where to find vitamins in winter. And here it turns out, as in Greece - everything is there.
I enjoyed this gift of nature until mid-May. The grass began to grow everywhere and the oasis had to be eliminated. Instead of cereals, they planted shallots under the newspaper. The newspapers were slightly crushed by the ground so that the wind would not pick up. Watering, of course, was carried out, but infrequently. The bow quickly caught up with the development of the planting carried out a month earlier. In vain I was afraid - warm beds really work. Conclusion: you need to make several such beds every year. Yes, there is nothing at all to work.
And if to complicate a little - to make a sarcophagus from polycarbonate? Then, I think, you can plant potatoes in early December early varieties (eg Riviera) and by the beginning of April have young tubers on your table.
April last year was unusually rainy. A lot of earthworms climbed onto the asphalt. Early in the morning, before the movement began, I began to collect them every day and carry them to my plantation. And in the greenhouse and in the beds. Well, he probably brought 2 thousand. Jokingly, he enlisted everyone in the staff, called them workers and promised that now I would be well fed and watered. And they, under the contract, must loosen the earth and produce vermicompost.
I will also add why rabbit manure is so necessary on the site. The fact that it contains up to 25 elements useful for plants is understandable. Its main value is that it can be eaten by any type of worm without prior preparation. It is enough to moisturize - and that's it: the food is ready. But only drives, mesh floors in cages should be present - this necessary condition for separating the liquid fraction. I think I am making it clear? Well, if there is food, moisture, temperature regime and air exchange in the soil - everything is growing by leaps and bounds.
10 mistakes when buying seeds
The February warming also affected the greenhouse - the snow began to melt quickly in it. Seedlings of tomatoes in open ground in our region, we usually plant in mid-May. The seedlings are about 60 days old. This means we sow the seeds on April 15th. By the way, about the seeds. Buying them, most make a lot of mistakes. I am a pro in this business: I know how to choose a product on the market. Therefore, I want to warn readers and arm them before going to seed shops. In short, buyers make 10 common mistakes when choosing seeds.
Mistake # 1. Any seed shop is a library of brightly colored sachets. The names are simply mesmerizing, and the beautiful pictures allow you to forget the basic rules for buying seeds. So we show lack of attention to quality. When choosing seeds, we often forget that there are many options to be deceived in the seed market. As well as the dominance of low-quality products, expired seeds, re-grading. Do not buy seeds from unknown manufacturers. Choose a company that values \u200b\u200bits reputation. Do not buy from hawkers in the marketplace and random sellers (with rare exceptions, they take cheap knockoffs to sell at exorbitant prices!). When shopping online, also remember the pitfalls of such purchases. In fact, this is the same private store, where it is even easier to deceive you. You don't even see the seller.
Mistake # 2. Do not think that if you have a beautiful and attractive package, then the seeds in it are just as good. Oftentimes, you pay for packaging and design, not content.
Mistake number 3. Selection by picture. Read carefully the characteristics: the number of seeds, the duration of the growing season, the timing of flowering, fruiting.
Mistake # 4. Buying hybrid seeds to get your own. In the first generation, all hybrids are the same. In the second, there is a splitting according to the 1: 3 scheme.
Mistake number 5. Refusal to use pelleted seeds, if you do not do it yourself.
Mistake number 6. Underestimation of the zoning of the variety and excessive craving for exoticism. “Vaginal seeds are often more expensive, more capricious to grow, and require additional care.
Mistake # 7. New doesn't mean better. 70% of all sowing material should be occupied by already proven varieties, of which you have no doubt.
Mistake number 8. Purchase of seeds in reserve. It is impossible to create ideal storage conditions at home.
Mistake number 9. Spontaneous purchase of seeds. Resist the immediate temptation to be inspired by the description.
Mistake number 10. Unjustified savings. Don't be fooled by cheapness. They are either off-grade, or defective (low germination and germination energy).
Seed preparation for sowing
Everything described is purely from my personal experience.
First, we pickle the seeds for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 1 liter of water) or proportionally, depending on the volume. Time is limited, since the atomic oxygen released in the solution will begin to combine into molecules and, in fact, the solution loses its activity.
We wash it in clean water and put it in an ash solution for a day (1 tablespoon of ash per 1 liter of water). Here we add a teaspoon of aloe juice, a tablespoon of tincture of pomegranate peel. Now we squeeze the cotton cloth out of the solution and place it in a plastic box. We spread the seeds, cover with a damp cloth, close the lid tightly and put in a warm place.
This is where the seeds will sprout. The temperature is kept within 20-25'С. As soon as the seeds hatch, I put them in the refrigerator overnight on the top shelf. Temperature + ° C. For the day I take it out of the refrigerator again in the heat. I repeat the procedure 5 times.
This kind of shock therapy is very effective. It provides friendly shoots and contributes to no less friendly fruiting. I recommend this type of hardening to owners of unheated greenhouses.
There is another method that shortens the ripening period by a week. The start of seed preparation is the same. Add a tablespoon of garden soil, a teaspoon of the EM preparation or a teaspoon of Bionur, a little old jam to the seed solution and connect a regular aquarium compressor. And already in a day we get sprouts from the seeds. Now it's time to put the seeds in their place. If for someone seedlings are one of the elements of income on the market, plant them thicker, dive. To each his own.
I try to get first-class planting material without extra physical costs. I rarely sow - after 5 cm to a depth of 1 cm. I place one variety on one strip. The garden bed is 1 m wide, which is very convenient. Between the rows 5 cm. For 20 plants this place is enough, the seedlings develop well. I cut a groove along the aisles. I irrigate along this groove as needed. I spray with Bionur several times - first the soil, then the plants. The seedlings grow vigorous and resistant to lodging. All indeterminate varieties at the time of planting have a height of up to 50 cm.
Maltsev's method
I prepare seedlings for further cultivation according to the Maltsev method.
So - the essence of the method. The seedlings (and we have them very long in advance) are laid with roots to the south in a prepared furrow 10 cm deep, we remove the excess leaves. We leave only one or two pairs near the top. We shed the furrow, and cover the stem with dry soil. We fix the top of the tomato about 10 cm with an earthen mound in an upright position.
We will make the garter after the plant grows. The distance between tall tomatoes is maintained at 1 m.
Because on the underground part laid horizontally, the root system quickly begins to develop, and the main roots rush down in a powerful bunch. I remember that I had to somehow eliminate a diseased tomato, but the root system is something extraordinary. On the horizontal section, there is a huge beard, and the main roots have gone to a depth of over 60 cm.
With the development of the seedling (now the tomato can be called that), stepsons begin to develop in the lower part of the stem. Our task is to grow two to a length of 50 cm. After that, we lay them to the right and left of the mother plant. Approximately 30-35 cm.
We now have 3 powerful roots per stem. And we have two ways: either we cut off two stems from the stepsons (although they are not such stepchildren) and get an even more powerful root system per stem, or we leave three in one. That is: three stems, three powerful roots and one seedlings (by number) instead of three. It's a good idea to throw a couple of worms into each groove when landing. I am silent about mulching - we have it. We only monitor the replenishment of mulch and periodically add as it subsides.
The start of transplanting last year was 13 May. In exactly one month, the stems reached a height of 70 cm.
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