How to plant garlic correctly for a good harvest. Growing garlic: necessary conditions and subtleties of agricultural technology. How to grow large, vigorous garlic so that it can be stored for a long time. Cleaning and storage

Garlic is subdivided into winter and spring. Each has pros and cons. Winter crops yield a large harvest, but are poorly stored. Spring yields a smaller yield, but it lasts until next year.

Plant species

How to distinguish spring from winter in appearance? A hard core sticks out of the middle of the winter crop bulb - the remainder of the arrow. The spring does not have such a rod, so it does not shoot. The winter bulb's teeth are large and form one layer. The cloves of the spring bulb are small and can be arranged in two or more layers. And the main difference is the different planting dates. Spring is planted in spring, and winter - in autumn. And now about the main thing - about the landing rules.

Garlic growing video

The technology of growing garlic is constantly being improved. This is how several landing methods appeared, which we will now tell you about.

Method number 1 - traditional

A place is allocated for the culture from under the early harvested plants: cucumbers, early cabbage, radish, legumes. The site should not be located in a lowland and flooded with melt water in the spring - the teeth will rot and die. The soil is fertilized: humus or rotted manure is introduced, shovels are dug onto a bayonet and furrows are made every 25 cm. Uncleaned teeth are planted every 10-12 cm. The plantings are closed, watered and mulched.

Photo of planting winter garlic

Method number 2 - double landing

A double planting of garlic is relevant for small areas. The main secret is that the garlic sits in 2 levels (tiers). This is done in autumn or late August. The first row is located below, the second - above. We dig a groove deeper and lay out the first level of teeth at a depth of 11-12 cm. Someone might say - deep. Do not worry. They will feel great there.

We fill it with earth and lay out the second row at a depth of 6-7 cm. We make a distance of 10-15 cm between the teeth, 25 cm between the grooves. Sprinkle with earth. It turns out one tooth above the other. Nobody bothers anyone, everyone has enough.

Method number 3 - sowing

You can also not stick the teeth into the ground, but sow, that is, lay them out on a barrel or just throw them into rows. The only thing that may confuse you is a garlic head lying on its side and a curved neck. But this does not affect product quality, taste and size of the onion.

In the photo, sowing garlic

The teeth were planted and mulched. In the spring, they immediately start growing. The tooth that turned out to be lower - in more favorable conditions. It is deeper and warmer there. He developed the root system better. And the one that is higher warms up faster in spring.

When to harvest garlic? The bulbs are harvested when the arrow bursts. Why then break out the arrows? If you leave them, then the garlic heads will grow less. The arrow takes over the food, since the bulbs are formed on it, but it is worth leaving a few. The garlic arrows will show you when it's ready to harvest. The arrows are broken out not when they just emerged from the stem, but when they made a circle.

When to plant garlic?

Every autumn this question arises for all gardeners. And here, as they say, how many people, so many opinions. Someone prefers to plant the bulb 2-3 weeks before the soil freezes. The tooth has time to take root and in the spring willingly starts to grow. But the early August and September planting is considered not correct, since the tips of the feather begin to turn yellow early in the plant. We will not convince you of the correctness or incorrectness of a particular method. We will tell you about an interesting experience we have done.

We planted the garlic on three dates: August 20, September 20 and October 20. The best harvest was given by the August planting. He had the best winter. If you think about it, it immediately becomes clear why this is so. We planted it early, it managed to take root well, gained strength and in the spring immediately drove it to growth. And the worst harvest was from the October planting. It did not really take root, did not winter well and grew little.

If the plant managed to sprout from the August and September planting, then nothing terrible happened. It should be so. To check whether the August planting is so effective, plant some of the cloves early, and some when it seems more correct to you, and then compare the results.

Why doesn't sprouted garlic freeze, you ask? When he gave roots, the composition of the cell sap changed, there was more sugar in it. Try freezing the syrup. The syrup will not freeze, but the water will freeze. That is, after germination, it passes into another state, it simply "falls asleep" for the winter.

Top dressing

Feeding garlic in summer closer to harvesting is already useless. If you are going to feed him, then this should be done in May - June. Then he gains the weight of the bulb itself from the pen. When he wakes up, he needs it. As a top dressing, take an infusion of vermicompost or horse manure. It is advisable to mulch the planting with humus or straw chopped into pieces.

The aisles are sprinkled with ash from pests. Mulching helps to retain moisture in the soil and protects the bulbs from overheating. You don't need to mulch the garlic. Cultivation and care then consist in top dressing, regular loosening, weed removal and watering.

One more rule: we choose the largest teeth for planting. We plant small - small bulbs and get. If the tops turn yellow, this indicates damage to the root system. Reasons: root gnawing by pests or the action of soil rot.

If the plantings are mulched, then there is no need to water them. Under normal weather conditions, rain moisture is sufficient. After all, the clove has already grown roots, it will draw moisture from the soil itself, and form a good bulb.

Also prefers fertile land. If necessary, humus or rotted manure is introduced into the soil in an amount of 3-5 kg \u200b\u200b/ m2. The teeth are planted in rows at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. A distance of 25-28 cm is maintained between the rows.The approximate depth of planting garlic cloves is 3 cm. We will describe two methods.

Method number 1 - traditional

They are planted in spring early spring on April 15-25. Before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and sorted by size. Slices of each size should preferably be planted in separate grooves. Care consists in regularly loosening row spacings, watering and removing weeds. If the plantings are mulched, then, as mentioned above, there is no need for watering.

Method number 2 - sprouted teeth

Garlic heads are stored all winter at a temperature of 20 0 C. At the end of March, the bulbs are disassembled into slices, soaked for 3 hours in water at room temperature, taken to the cellar, where they are laid out in one layer and covered with rags or film. When the roots grow 2-5 cm long, the cloves are planted in moist soil.

Photo of planting garlic

Spring plants are fed as well as winter crops with infusion of mullein, vermicompost or horse manure. Of inorganic fertilizers, urea is used at the rate of 1 matchbox per bucket of water when shoots appear, then after 10 days and the third time at the end of June. Ash is scattered from pests in the aisles.

Spring bulbs are harvested when the feathers of the lower layer of the plant dry out in the third decade of August - the first decade of September. The bulbs selected from the soil are laid out in one row to dry under a canopy. The tops should dry completely. Do not rush to cut the green shoots of garlic, as the bulb receives nutrition from them and continues to grow during drying. Dry tops are cut, leaving 5 cm.

Garlic tends to degenerate, like potatoes. When multiplying by teeth, diseases gradually accumulate in culture, the yield decreases. To prevent this from happening, from time to time, garlic is renewed from the bulbs (air). In the first year, one-tooth are obtained from the air. In the second year, full-fledged bulbs grow from them. The garlic turns out to be healthy and you don't have to run around looking for planting material, especially since it is quite expensive.

Garlic in the photo

Bulbules are taken from plants where the arrow was left. When the inflorescence bursts and the bulbs turn in the color characteristic of this variety, the inflorescences are broken out, put in a dry place for ripening. For planting, take bulbs with a diameter of 4-5 mm.

Method number 1 - traditional

Bulbules are sown in the first days of October. Humus is introduced into the soil 3-4 kg per 1 m 2, dug up. Rows are made up to 4 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The rows are watered, air is laid out every 3 cm and sprinkled with earth. In spring and summer, crop care is the same as for regular garlic. By the beginning of August, one-toothed bulbs grow from the bulbs, which are dug out when the tops turn yellow. They are dried and used for autumn planting on a full-fledged bulb.

Method number 2 - direct

In the first year, one-toothed is grown from the air by the traditional method. In August, one-toothed is not dug out, but left in the soil for the winter. The following spring, the plants are carefully thinned out, thus increasing the distance between the remaining bulbs. By the end of May, the distance between rows should be 25 cm, and between one-toothed teeth in a row - 10-12 cm.

Video about growing and caring for garlic

Method number 3 - growing through winter

Bulbs are sown in the first half of June. Before that, they are stored unmilled in the refrigerator. By the second decade of September, plants already have 4-5 leaves, a good root system and a thick stem as thick as a pencil. In October, winter plants are hardened and winter well. The next year, full-fledged bulbs develop from them.

We have shared with you all the secrets that we used ourselves. Now you know how to grow garlic. It's up to you. Choose the method you like, or rather several, so that you can compare the results later, and grow a huge crop, to the delight of your neighbors and the envy of you.

All about the correct cultivation of spring and winter garlic in the open field, about what to do if it turns yellow in spring, how to water and how to feed, you will learn from this guide. The information will be especially useful for beginners, as well as for experienced gardeners. The cultivation of garlic usually does not cause big problems, but for a good harvest, it is necessary to follow the rules of planting, care and feeding.

Gardeners know that garlic can be winter and spring, and what are the differences between them you can see from the table and photo:

Spring garlic	Winter garlic
There are more teeth - from 12 to 30 pieces, but they are smaller	An arrow sticks out in the middle of the bottom, which is surrounded by 4-12 large teeth
The bulbs are smaller and have more scales	Bulbs and cloves are larger and more productive
The teeth on the bottom of the bulb are located in a spiral from the periphery to the center, with the outer ones being larger	In the middle there is a thick and solid rod, around which the teeth
Planted in early spring	Planted in autumn
It ripens in September, it is laid for winter storage and consumed until the new harvest	Can only be stored until February

Winter garlic is more common, but in the northern regions they prefer to grow spring garlic, since the plants of sub-winter planting can freeze out.

Garlic varieties with photos and descriptions

Most often, garlic is propagated by chives, of which there are from 4 to 12 in each bulb, and sometimes more.

Do not use grocery store garlic as planting material. It may not be suitable for growing in your area, and in most cases it has been treated with special substances that inhibit growth. It is best to purchase garlic for planting from a trusted online seed store or local nursery.

Garlic varieties are divided into two groups:

Shooters - they have a flowering shoot emerging from the center of the bulb - an arrow ending in an inflorescence. It consists of bulbs (air bulbs) and flower buds, which subsequently dry out without forming seeds. A sign of ripening in them is the yellowing of the leaves and arrows. All arrowed garlic varieties are considered winter garlic.
Non-shooting - in such plants only leaves develop during the growing season. These varieties can be both winter and spring.

The best varieties of garlic for planting before winter

Shooters

Dubkovsky is a medium-ripening variety - 98-114 days pass from germination to harvest. Productivity 5.6 kg from 10 m 2. Bulbs weighing 30 g, round-flat, dense. There are 10-12 cloves in the onion. The taste is spicy. Recommended for growing in the Krasnodar Territory, Kurgan, Rostov and Pskov regions.

Yubileyny Gribovskiy is the most common variety of the middle term - from germination to drying of leaves 83-122 days pass. Productivity is high - on average 12.5 kg from 10 m 2. Bulbs of 20-30 g, round-flat, with large cloves. The taste is very spicy. The variety is relatively winter hardy, resistant to drought, the main pests and diseases, it adapts well to different weather conditions. For growing in the northern and central regions of Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Ukraine.

Otradnensky is a mid-late variety - it takes 95-135 days from germination to drying of leaves, universal purpose. The yield is very high - 12-13.5 kg from 10 m 2. Bulbs over 30 g, round-flat, each with up to eight cloves. The variety is very winter-hardy. Good for growing in Primorsky Krai and Mordovia.

Sail - a variety of medium ripening - time from germination to harvest: 96-108 days. Yields a yield of 6 to 10 kg from 10 m2. Bulbs weighing 30–47 g, round-flat, dense, well stored, they contain 7–10 cloves. The taste is spicy. The variety is winter hardy. Recommended for growing in the Voronezh and Nizhny Novgorod regions, in the Ukraine, in the Stavropol Territory and Kazakhstan.

Siberian - medium term - from germination to harvesting 81-113 days, universal. The average yield is 5.8 kg per 10 m 2. Bulbs weighing 20-30 g, round-flat, with medium-sized cloves (4-5 pcs.). The taste is sharp and semi-sharp. Suitable for growing in Novosibirsk, Kemerovo, Omsk and Tomsk regions.

Non-shooting

Novosibirsk - a variety with a medium early ripening period - 68–82 days pass from germination to harvest, it is universal. The yield is 5–6 kg from 10 m 2. Bulbs weighing up to 30 g, round, well stored. There are 9-13 cloves in the onion. The taste is semi-sharp, delicate. Recommended for Novosibirsk and Kemerovo regions.

Saki is an early variety - it takes 100–115 days from germination to yellowing of leaves, it is universal. Yield 4,2 kg per 10 m2 Bulbs weighing 20 g, flat and round-flat, with wide conical cloves. There are 11-13 of them in the onion. The taste is spicy. Well suited for growing in Crimea.

Garlic varieties for spring planting

Among the spring varieties, a particularly large role belongs to the numerous local forms, which are usually very well preserved. Among them:

Danilovsky (variety of the Yaroslavl region).
Bryansk, Ufimsky (varieties of Bashkortostan).
Cheboksary (grade of Chuvashia), etc.

Garlic varieties quickly degenerate, so they need to be changed periodically.

What soil is needed for garlic

Garlic grows well on fertile loose light sandy loam or loamy soil, in non-flooded areas, with sufficient sunlight; tree-shaded areas are not suitable for this crop. It does not tolerate both excessive moisture and prolonged drying of the soil.

It is good if the bed is located on a sunny hillock and is protected from the wind by a fence, trees or shrubs. Water should not stagnate there in spring.

Before planting, the soil is dug up, loosened, the roots of perennial weeds are selected and carefully leveled.

When digging for 1 m 2, humus (1-2 buckets) and wood ash (2-4 kg) are added. Instead of ash, you can take superphosphate and potassium salt (15-20 g each).

The acidic soil is limed. The garden bed is prepared two weeks before planting, as it should settle down a little so that the garlic cloves do not go deep into the ground.

What to soak garlic before planting

Before planting, the garlic is treated with a weak solution of trace elements (one tablet is dissolved in 1 liter of water) or with an infusion of birch firewood ash: 1 tablespoon of ash is thoroughly stirred in 1 liter of hot water and the garlic is soaked for one night.

To avoid the most common disease of garlic - downy mildew, the cloves are heated for 12 hours at 40 C before planting and treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.

Growing garlic outdoors

The bulbs and cloves of winter garlic are larger and more productive than that of spring garlic, but the latter, thanks to the many scales, is stored longer. Better to grow both forms outdoors.

When and how to plant winter garlic

Chives of winter garlic are planted before winter after harvesting vegetables
cultures. The largest and healthiest bulbs are chosen for planting - without a single spot. Small teeth are discarded, only large ones are planted. It is very important to do it on time.

In central Russia, planting dates are usually recommended from September 15–20 to October 5, a few weeks before the onset of stable November cold weather.
Winter garlic is planted in the central regions of the Non-Black Earth Zone in the third decade of September.
In the Moscow region, the best planting time is from September 25 to October 5.
In the northern regions, the dates are moved to earlier ones, in the southern regions - to later ones.

Such planting dates are due to the fact that the teeth must take root well before the onset of stable winter cold weather.

Following such advice, amateur vegetable growers are often mistaken if in late September - early October, after cold weather, a relatively warm weather suddenly sets in. And then not only the roots, but also the shoots begin to grow actively, and the subsequent November frosts destroy them.

With a delay in planting, the teeth do not have time to take root until the end of October and hibernate poorly. In the spring, such seedlings are sparse and frail at best. To avoid mistakes, it is advisable to know long-term and reliable weather forecast.

Planting scheme for winter garlic

Teeth of the same size are planted in two lines. The landing pattern is as follows:

the distance between the rows is at least 20 cm;
between cloves in a row - 8–10 cm;

Planting depth depends on the type of soil: on light soils, it is 8-10 cm from the top of the clove to the soil surface, on heavy soils - 5-6 cm. Shallow planting of garlic can lead to the fact that when the temperature drops to minus 15 C, a significant part of the plants may die.

For each square meter, you need 50 cloves, or 300 g of garlic (6-7 heads).

Although garlic is a cold-resistant culture, in November-December, the snow "coat" is still too unreliable and thin, so it is better to insulate the garden bed by sprinkling it with peat, well-rotted manure or loose compost soil with a layer of 2 cm.

Such mulching will do a good job in early spring, as the soil will warm up faster. In addition, mulch will keep the soil surface from crusting and help retain the moisture that garlic needs. As a result, this technique alone significantly stimulates the development of young plants, increasing the yield by 10-15%.

How to grow winter garlic from bulbs (air bulbs)

Usually, air bulbs are used to obtain planting material - sevka. One or two days before harvesting the garlic, the arrows are cut off, leaving 2–3 cm above the bulb, tied into sheaves and left under a canopy for 25–30 days.

If you plant the bulbs before winter, next year they will give single-tooth bulbs (sets), which will be the planting material.

Before sowing the bulbs - air bulbs are separated from the arrows by shaking, then calibrated. The smallest ones (less than 2 mm in diameter) are not suitable for sowing, as they produce very small single-toothed bulbs. It will take three years to grow them into bulbs that can be divided into cloves.

Bulbs are sown in the third decade of September, like chives, on the ridges with lines, between which a distance of 10-15 cm is left. 8-10 g of bulbs are sown on one square meter of the ridge to a depth of 3-4 cm. The crops are mulched with peat or humus layer 2 cm.

The next year after the emergence of seedlings, the plants are fed with nitrogen and potassium fertilizers: 10–15 g of ammonium nitrate and 5 g of potassium salt per 1 m 2. The crops are watered, the aisles are shallowly loosened, the weeds must be removed.

When the leaves turn yellow and dry, the plants are undermined, single-toothed bulbs are picked from the soil, dried and prepared for autumn planting.

One-toothed onion sets are planted in the same way as chives. In the second year, normal arrowhead plants and bulbs are obtained, dividing into cloves.

Growing garlic from bulbs (how to rejuvenate garlic) - video

Aerial bulbs can also be sown in spring. To do this, they are stored in a cold (2–5 ° C) or warm (18–20 ° C) room in unmilled sheaves. This way they are better preserved. Early spring sowing of aerial bulbs after cold storage is almost the same as for winter sowing.

After storage in warm (18–20 ° C) and early spring sowing, well-developed plants grow: their growing season is longer than that of plants under winter sowing and cold storage. They give large sets, but later ripening.

If you didn't have time to sow garlic in early spring, you can do it in June. In this case, the plants do not form a bulb and continue to grow until the onset of winter. After overwintering in the soil, the next year they grow and develop in the same way as the arrowhead garlic plants grown from the cloves, but produce a smaller bulb.

How to plant spring garlic in spring

Two to three weeks before planting spring garlic in the open ground in the spring, the storage temperature of the planting material is reduced from 18-20 to 2 C. Immediately before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and the largest of them are selected.

After preparing the soil, it is carefully leveled with a rake, longitudinal grooves are made, the distance between their centers is 20 cm, between the cloves is 5-6 cm.

Planting depth is 2-3 cm. The teeth should be planted in the center of the groove, bottom down. Seedlings begin to appear in 13-15 days.

Outdoor garlic care

Caring for garlic plants consists in systematic loosening to a shallow depth (4-5 cm) so as not to damage the root system, in killing weeds, watering and feeding.

How to water garlic

During the period of active growth of garlic plants, the soil should always be moist. Lack of sufficient moisture reduces the yield, reduces the number of cloves in the bulbs.

Spring garlic is more moisture-loving than winter garlic and needs watering. Watering should be done until mid-June. But garlic also does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil.

How and what to feed garlic after winter so that it does not turn yellow

The leaves of winter garlic begin to grow very early, when the snow has not yet melted everywhere. However, gardeners often see pale yellow and frail instead of bright green young shoots. The reason lies in insufficient plant nutrition. So that the garlic planted before winter does not turn yellow, in the spring water your plantings with a solution of ammonium nitrate (dissolve the fertilizer matchbox in a bucket of water).

The second feeding is done around mid-May. At this time, plants are usually fed with a mixture of mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt (10, 20 and 10 g per 1 m 2, respectively).

How to water the garlic in spring so that it does not turn so yellow if you want to do without the "chemistry"? In this case, it is better to use organic fertilizers for feeding, for example, a weekly infusion of fresh chicken manure (it contains more nitrogen in comparison with mullein).

If the plantings dry up, the soil is watered abundantly, starting from the third decade of May and throughout June. The earth is periodically loosened with a hoe, I weed the weeds, preventing their regrowth.

The last, third, time they feed the garlic at the end of June, when the bulbs are finally formed. Summer nutrition is an infusion of mullein (1 liter of fertilizer is diluted in a bucket of water) or an infusion of weeded weeds growing on a compost heap, in the same concentration. You can limit yourself to feeding with superphosphate (5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Since this fertilizer is poorly soluble in water, it is preliminarily boiled for 30 minutes in a mug of water, stirring often.

How and what to feed spring garlic

Spring garlic shoots begin to appear 13-15 days after planting. In case of mass seedlings, the soil surface must be loosened and fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, 15 g of ammonium nitrate is dissolved in 10 liters of water and evenly poured into the grooves at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m 2. When the liquid is absorbed, the grooves are closed with dry soil.

The second feeding with nitrogen and potassium (potassium chloride) fertilizers should be given in the phase of formation of four leaves at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water.

The third top dressing - potash and phosphorus (superphosphate) fertilizers - in the phase of the seventh leaf - at the rate of 20 g per 10 l of water, solution consumption 10 l per 1 m 2 After each feeding, the garlic is watered.

Around the twentieth of June, garlic throws out flower arrows, at the end of which airy bulbs (bulbs) develop. A few of the most powerful arrows that appear first can be left for seeds. The rest are gradually removed at the stage of formation, when they are good as vitamin greens for salads and canning.

Timely breaking the arrows at the very base, from the leaf axils, increases productivity and allows you to grow large garlic.

Do I need to tie the garlic after breaking the arrows? Tying garlic arrows in a knot, practiced by some growers, does nothing, since the development of the arrows does not stop, and a good half of the nutrients do not enter the bulb.

Harvesting and storing the harvest of garlic

Stop watering the garlic a few weeks before harvest. To determine if the garlic is ready to harvest, examine a few of the bulbs by thoroughly cleaning the dirt.

When to dig out garlic planted in the winter

A sign of the ripening of garlic is the cessation of the formation of new leaves. In non-shooting varieties, the leaves turn yellow, in those with shooting, the caps on the bulbs crack, dense wrappers form on the bulbs, the head becomes ribbed.

As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, then the garlic is ripe. Now it is impossible to hesitate with cleaning - if there is a delay, the teeth break the wrapper and crumble, such heads will be unsuitable for long-term storage.

Garlic is harvested in dry weather. Ripe bulbs are dug out with a pitchfork, carefully picked out of the soil and laid out in rows for several days to dry in the sun.

Then the roots and stem are cut with pruning shears, leaving about 1.5 cm. If the stem is shorter, the hard scales of the cloves can be damaged, and then the garlic will be poorly stored.

When to harvest spring garlic

Depending on the variety and weather conditions, spring garlic ripens at the end of August or September. The main signs of ripeness:

lodging of tops;
drying of the lower leaves;
yellowing of the upper leaves;
dying off of roots (they become thin, dark).

Choose dry weather for cleaning. It is impossible to delay harvesting, as in rainy weather the garlic forms new roots and germinates. The bulbs are dug in with a shovel or pitchfork and picked from the soil. Dry them in the air or indoors until the leaves are completely dry.

Then the bulbs are cleaned of the remnants of the adhered earth, the roots and the false stem are cut off 4–5 cm above the shoulders. After that, the garlic is finally dried (it should rustle during tedding) and put into storage.

How to store garlic in the winter at home to keep it dry

It is better to process the main part of the harvest immediately and make preparations for the winter. The rest is stored until spring in a room where in winter it keeps a rather low, but positive temperature with low air humidity. The prepared heads are placed in boxes, baskets or mesh bags, they can be woven into braids.

At a temperature of 1-3 C, they will remain juicy and fresh for a long time and will not germinate and dry until spring.

Experienced vegetable growers know how to properly store garlic at home at room temperature. There are two reliable methods suitable for a city apartment:

Well-dried heads of garlic are folded into a canvas bag, tied and put into a plastic bag, leaving it open.
Another method - you need to take a jar or a saucepan, pour a layer of salt 2-3 cm on the bottom, then put the heads of garlic and fill it with salt again, etc. The top row must be covered with salt, but it must not be wet.

What can be planted after garlic next year

Garlic can be returned to its original place only after four to five years. As an exception, this is possible, but only if an infection has not accumulated in the soil during the first year of cultivation, which is easy to check if you carefully examine the heads of garlic that have grown there. If he is completely healthy, without the slightest signs of any lesions, you can take a chance and plant garlic in the same place for the next year, but not more.

It is undesirable to plant onions after garlic, since these crops are affected by the same diseases.

Here's what you can plant after garlic:

cucumbers;
zucchini;
pumpkin;
early harvested root crops and early cabbage;
all legumes and greens.

It's hard to believe that garlic was once hardly used in the kitchen. Today there are over 600 species of this amazing plant. It would seem that it’s difficult to grow it, I planted the largest cloves and got large bulbs. But this is a complete delusion, because the plant requires sufficient moisture and light, timely planting and harvesting, and light soil.

On sale you can find dozens of varieties of garlic, which differ in shape, color and number of cloves. The most productive are considered winter (winter) varieties. Such plants have heads with a hardened arrow and are frost-resistant.

Spring (spring) garlic is inferior in yield to winter one, but it is better stored.

Winter varieties
The leader in size and yield is the Rocambol elephant garlic. The diameter of the head can be 15 cm, the total weight is -1 kg, and a single clove can be 20 g.

Lyubasha can be recognized by her pink color with purple veins. Its teeth are large, reaching up to 20 g, heads up to 300 g.

The Bogatyr variety has impressive bulbs, up to 85 g. The advantage of this type is nematode resistance and good keeping quality.

Spring varieties

Among spring crops, one can distinguish the rounded-flat type of Gulliver, the bulb of which weighs 120 g and consists of 5 prongs.

Garlic cultivation and care

Garlic is generally unpretentious, but there are special plant cultivation requirements that should be considered.

garlic - sun

Lack of sun is one of the most common problems one can encounter when growing garlic. This condition negatively affects the productivity of the plant. The garlic area should receive 3-4 hours of sunlight. The beds are made from west to east in order to achieve uniform lighting.

garlic - earth

Garlic grows best in a sunny, well-drained area. In addition, loose (crumbly), loamy soil is suitable for it. The area should be evenly moist, but a dry, heavy area will lead to irregular bulbs. Every year, organic matter and a little sand are added under each bush, which gives the site a friability.

Sour and heavy soils are contraindicated for the cultivation of garlic.

The acidity of the site is determined with a special device or weed growth is monitored. For example, sedge, horsetail and sorrel are fans of acidity.

garlic - ash

The introduction of ash will not only enrich the soil, but also feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus minerals.
For the full growth of garlic, an organic product is used, but ashes from synthetic objects are unsuitable for feeding. Sometimes ash is prepared for future use and is initially introduced in the preparation of the beds: in early autumn for winter and early spring for spring species. The consumption rate of natural fertilizers depends on the composition and condition of the soil. As a top dressing, ash is sprayed about 4 times per season.

Fertilization can be:

Dry when the ash is sprayed between the beds and then loosened. This method is effective for disease prevention and pest control.
Irrigation from a watering can, in which ash is used filled with water (0.5 liters of ash per 10 liters of water) and infused for several days.
When foliar top dressing with ash infusion, the leaves are irrigated, which is useful when curling and yellowing the tips of the leaf.

garlic - watering

The teeth can rot from excessive moisture. They begin to moisten the bulbs in early May with an interval of 7-10 days.

Each phase of plant growth requires its own watering:

active growth - abundant;
ripening of the bulbs is moderate. The moisture of the plants is especially monitored during the period of heavy rains so that the bulbs do not dry out.
a month before harvesting - stop watering.

garlic - manure

It is advisable not to add fresh mullein and unripe humus under the garlic, because the bulbs can become loose and crumbly. But the cut crops, called green "dung", are laid in the soil in the fall. It can be peas, oats, buckwheat, sorghum, clover and other crops, which are mowed before the seeds ripen and dried.

Why do garlic leaf tips turn yellow, causes and how to eliminate

Yellowed leaves are a sign that the garlic is ripe, but premature burnout indicates problems with the plant itself.

Winter garlic, spring garlic - differences

Spring and winter garlic are very similar to each other, but have a number of minor differences. Here is a photo and a diagram of both types.
Spring garlic: the number of cloves can reach 30 pieces, arranged in a spiral, in 2-3 rows.

Ozand washed garlic: the number of teeth is smaller, larger, placed in one row in a circle.

The spring species is planted only with cloves, and the winter species reproduces with cloves and air bubbles. As in the first, and in the second grade, there are non-shooting plants, but "feathers" are characteristic only for the winter species. Moreover, if the aboveground part is not ripped off, you can lose 30% of the crop. A winter plant is propagated by air nodules and a higher quality genetic material is obtained. The growing season in both species is approximately the same, 90-110 days. The yield and average weight of a winter bulb can be 3 times higher than a spring one.

Winter and spring garlic, storage

The heads of spring varieties are better preserved, but they are inferior to winter ones in size and yield. If the first species lies before the new harvest, then the winter one is usually stored until January, and in chambers until March.

Video how to distinguish spring garlic from winter garlic

The differences in species are minimal, but the hard arrow shows the winter variety.

Spring garlic - large varieties

The yield of garlic directly depends on the correctly selected variety. The spring type is characterized by a large number of teeth and good keeping quality.
The medium-late variety Gulliver stands out for its size, which has 3-5 teeth, with a total weight of up to 120 g.

The whitish, productive species Yelenovsky has pinkish teeth and is distinguished by a stable yield.

The flat-round bulbs of the Victorio variety reach up to 40 g.

The Ershov species has up to 25 teeth, and the weight of the bulbs reaches 35 g.

Spring garlic cultivation technology

The spring species does not like heat, and its yield drops if the prongs are lowered into the ground with a delay.

spring garlic planting time

Planting of a spring variety begins with melting snow and the first heat, but no later than the third decade of April. Acceptable planting temperature is +5 C. Watering is not required in wet soil. Previously, the teeth are sprayed with water, and kept in the cold for 2-3 weeks in an open plastic bag. Such preparation gives the best germination and plant resistance to spring winds.
Planting too early, due to poor bulb development, leads to rotting. Cold temperatures (+4 ° + 10 ° C) are favorable for root growth. In hot weather, their growth stops and the formation of bulbs begins.

spring garlic planting method

When planting in spring, the teeth are laid to a depth of 4-6 cm so that the planting material is in a humid environment. The distance between large teeth should be 6-8 cm, medium heads are planted 4-6 cm apart. There are 50-55 cloves per 1 m2 of area.

Planting too shallow pushes the bulbs to the surface.

It is important for this activity to choose the right side - the pointed end up. An incorrectly planted clove will not grow.

garlic what to feed to grow large

Before planting, the soil must be cultivated. Clay areas with added organic matter can be made suitable for growing garlic. Liming is carried out if the pH is less than 5.8.

In autumn, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied to the soil. Yellowing of leaves, poor growth and low yield indicate a deficiency of the element.
Phosphorus deficiency is characterized by dark green leaves and slow growth. A symptom of potassium deficiency can be lethargy and marginal "burn" of the leaves.
Calcium deficiency is replenished by adding lime flour. Sulfur yield is not increased, but the taste of the bulbs is improved.

secrets of large garlic

The yield of spring garlic is affected by:

Storage mode of uterine bulbs. A combination of two modes is suitable for this (1st half of the year +18 С + 20 С, 2nd half of the year +3 С +6 С) or a stable basement temperature +2 С.
The preparation of the site is carried out 2 weeks before planting: it is dug up and fertilized.
For beds, areas with pumpkin, legumes and cabbage predecessors are chosen.
The teeth for planting are selected with a weight of at least 4 g and are pre-soaked.
Until the first shoots, the site is not watered.
Watering cycle 7-8 days.
Harvested at 80% drying of the stems.

Large garlic Rocambol, winter or spring

This variety can be grown as a winter and spring species, but in the first case, the garlic turns out to be larger and of better quality. With a thick snow cover, it winters well, and in snowless winters it can freeze out. The main difference between Rocambol and the usual domestic varieties is frequent and abundant watering, as well as the presence of children.

Spring garlic harvest time

Spring garlic is dug up later than the winter relative, because it needs additional time to grow. A rainy summer, when harvesting times are shortened, or heat and drought, when they are extended, can make adjustments. Roughly the spring harvest is harvested at the end of August, when the lower leaves dry up and the tops turn yellow.

Spring garlic storage

Store the crop in a dark room, at a stable temperature and sufficient air circulation. Any cool, well-ventilated area will be good for garlic. In very cold areas, the bulbs are insulated. The crop is pre-placed in nets and lowered into the basement. For planting, keep the largest and evenest bulbs.

Whole heads are not stored in the refrigerator, but individual cloves in a closed glass container can be left for a while.

Winter garlic how to grow large

Garlic for planting is purchased in a garden center, not in a supermarket. The plant loves crop rotation and does not adapt well to other climatic zones. The main condition for a good harvest is regular rejuvenation of the bulbs. Before planting, they are dipped into a weak solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (1 tsp: 2 l). Do not leave arrows on the garlic - this delays aging and reduces the teeth.

Secrets of growing large winter garlic

It is important to guess over the time of planting winter garlic. It is advisable to throw it into the ground 2 weeks before the first frost. This will give the plant additional rooting time.

Basic rules for growing a winter species:

Choose a variety adapted to a specific region. Not all plant species grow the same everywhere.
Prepare the soil for planting, determining its acidity, moisture and nutritional value.
For planting, the largest cloves are chosen and allowed to germinate.
They stop at the site, which is in the shade during the hottest part of the day. Light mulch (straw) reflects light, isolating the soil from heat and retaining moisture.
Timely watering increases the head size.
Weed control is important for garlic to grow, as it also needs water and nutrients.
Obligatory destruction of arrows.
Timely harvest.

How to plant winter garlic

Garlic is usually planted 4-6 weeks before the first frost, the more exact time depends on the region: the middle strip is October, the warmer climate is November. The main task of the gardener is to ensure that the plant has a well-developed root system in the winter. Autumn green shoots indicate the timely planting of garlic.

Winter garlic - large varieties

The best varieties of winter garlic are:
The high-yielding type Alkor has 4-5 dense teeth.

The heads of an early-ripening Belarusian variety are twice the size of Alkor. It can be recognized by its purple-hued scales.

Dry-resistant Lyubasha has heads up to 120 g.

Frost-resistant Spas bulbs with ten prongs weigh up to 100 g.

Winter garlic agricultural technology planting

To grow large heads of garlic, the soil is loosened with a rake before planting. A well-seasoned mixture of compost or manure is introduced into the soil. Several shallow grooves are prepared at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Holding each clove with the pointed end up, insert it into the soil 5 cm deep. Then he smooths the surface with his fingers or a rake. When planting several varieties, the sites must be marked. They allow the soil to settle for a month, and then add mulch.

Winter garlic in winter, how to cover winter garlic for the winter

Due to the shallow root system, garlic stops growing in dry conditions. Mulching the site will prevent weeds from growing, retain moisture and protect the roots from freezing. The protective layer can consist of straw, chopped leaves or grass cuttings. In cold regions, the mulch should be up to 10 cm thick.

Winter garlic dressing after winter

The main plant growth begins in spring. You can take ready-made complex dressings and add them after the rain or dilute the mullein in water (1: 7) and water the soil under the plant. Spraying ash or spraying with ammonia is a good complementary food for garlic.

Garlic watering method

Garlic is picky about moisture, but too much moisture can lead to bulb rot.

Do not irrigate the plant when the tops fall and dry.

Spring is the active season for growth. According to the amount of precipitation, during this period the plants require additional moisture. April and May are critical times when garlic is prone to disease. The soil type dictates the frequency of watering. Light sandy soils quickly erode, therefore they need more frequent watering, but clay areas warm up poorly and moisture in them lasts longer. The optimal rate of hydration is 2.5 cm per week of water with good drainage.

Winter garlic harvest

The crop is harvested in late spring or early summer, when the plant has five or six green leaves, and the lower one or two are already dry. For work, a pitchfork is harvested, but if the soil allows, the garlic is simply pulled out. Shake off excess soil and pile the crop.

Winter garlic storage

A week later, after drying the crop, the tops are cut off. Leave the garlic for another 2-3 weeks in a dry, ventilated area, and then send it to mesh bags or storage baskets. Sometimes they form bundles from several plants and hang them away from sources of heat and light.

Considering the above secrets and rules of cultivation, you can grow a good harvest of garlic.

Garlic is grown in almost every summer cottage. But not everyone knows the intricacies of growing technology. The quality and quantity of the harvested crop directly depends on this. It is also important to distinguish spring garlic from winter garlic, because this directly affects planting timing.

Winter garlic has a high yield and large size. The disadvantages of winter garlic include a short shelf life.

Winter garlic is suitable for preserving or pickling with various vegetables.

Landing dates

Garlic is planted in autumn, after the first cold weather sets in, but before the soil freezes. As a rule, this is the beginning of October - mid-November.

It is better to buy the largest garlic bulbs as a planting material. Over time, this will give its own supply of garlic.

Soil preparation and crop rotation

To prepare the soil for planting winter garlic, you need to add ash and sand to the soil a few weeks before planting. Garlic grows best in well-drained soil, as it does not tolerate stagnant moisture and prefers soil with a high organic matter content. A tall garden bed is ideal for growing garlic.

The soil must be fertilized with rotted manure or high-quality compost. To do this, scatter a layer of compost with a thickness of 3 - 5 centimeters over the entire planting area and dug to the depth of half a shovel bayonet. Like most horticultural crops, garlic grows best when the soil pH is between 6 and 7. If you fertilize the soil with rotted manure or compost before planting in winter, no further fertilization is required until spring.

Crop rotation rules prohibit planting garlic in the same place more often than once every five years. But often the small size of the site does not allow you to strictly adhere to this rule. Therefore, it is quite possible to return the garlic to its original place of cultivation, provided that an interval of 2 - 3 years is maintained and the correct predecessor plants are selected.

It is not recommended to plant it after onions, potatoes, carrots and other root crops, since their cultivation significantly impoverishes the soil. Not the best precursors to garlic are nightshade crops, which can infect it with Fusarium. And after legumes, cauliflower, cucumbers, zucchini and melon, garlic will feel good and delight with a wonderful harvest.

When landing, consider:

The garlic bed should be illuminated by the sun for at least 5 hours a day;
The pH of the soil should be from neutral to slightly acidic (6-7);
You cannot use fresh manure to fertilize the soil;
Planting material should be placed at a distance of 15 centimeters from each other, 5-7 centimeters deep.

Preparation of planting material

Additional processing of the cloves before planting has a positive effect on the quality of the garlic harvest. It serves as a prophylaxis against viral, fungal and bacterial diseases.

For processing planting material, you can use special preparations sold in gardening stores (Fitolavin, Fitosporin-M, Maxim).

The use of available tools will be no less effective. For example, you can soak your teeth in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 10 to 12 hours.

You can also soak the planting material in a saline solution for 3 minutes before planting. To prepare the solution, you need to mix 3 tablespoons of table salt with 5 liters of water.

Good results are obtained by treating the head of garlic with a solution of copper sulfate.

Planting methods for garlic

Planting with cloves (lateral buds) of bulbs

On the day of planting, it is necessary to form beds with a width of 1 to 2 meters. The teeth are planted at a distance of 15 to 20 centimeters from each other and deepened from five to seven centimeters. The weight of the cloves must be at least 4 grams. The landing site is sprinkled with humus per centimeter from above.

The garlic should take root before the cold weather sets in. Therefore, the best planting time will be from early October to mid-November.

Garlic should not be planted with a whole head. Before planting, the head is divided into single teeth.

Landing with air bulbs (bulbs)

To obtain a good harvest of garlic, it is recommended to periodically renew the planting material. At the same time, small airy garlic bulbs obtained from the peduncle - the arrows of a well-developed plant - are used as seeds. When the curled arrow of the garlic is straightened, it's time to collect the seeds of the air bulbs.

They are planted for the winter in the year of harvest, having previously sorted and dried for a month.

Planting time and soil preparation process is the same as when planting winter garlic with chives. Before sowing, the air bulbs are soaked in a solution of wood ash for at least 12 hours. The seeds are planted at a distance of 4 to 6 centimeters from each other and deepened from three to four centimeters.

The covering layer of mulch should be about 2 centimeters. Spring care of plants is the same as planting teeth.

In the first year, a single-toothed bulb (set) grows from the air bulbs, which will then serve as a good renewed planting material. At the same time, timely harvesting is very important, since ripe single-toothed bulbs are prone to self-deepening. The harvesting time can be determined by the state of the plant - the leaves begin to turn yellow and droop down.

After two years, the small airborne bulbs will grow into standard sized bulbs.

Planting with one-pronged bulbs (sevkom)

If it is necessary to obtain very large one-toothed bulbs, the sets of one-toothed bulbs are planted in spring, in the second decade of April.

To obtain ordinary heads of garlic, the planting is carried out in the fall.

The largest, brightest and most even bulbs are selected before sowing. Sowing should be planted in rows at a distance of 10 - 12 centimeters from each other and 20 centimeters between rows. Presowing soil preparation, site selection, and planting dates are the same as for air bulbs and cloves - from early October to mid-November.

Preparing for winter

After planting in the ground, it is necessary to cover the garlic with mulch from a thick layer of straw or leaves. This will act as insulation, protecting the bulbs from the cycle of sudden changes from freezing to thaw, thereby preventing the bulbs from freezing.

Spring and summer care

In the spring, you can remove the mulch to the side to warm the soil with natural sunlight and speed up growth. Once the soil has warmed up and small green shoots have started to appear, some mulch needs to be put back in place to keep weeds in check and retain moisture.

Garlic does not require much watering unless the soil is very dry. The less water you water, the more concentrated the garlic flavor.

In the summer, spring and winter garlic produces arrows that need to be removed as they prevent a good harvest.

Growing spring garlic

Spring garlic differs from winter garlic in size and number of cloves. It is smaller and less convenient for cooking. Its advantage is a longer shelf life, which allows garlic to be used throughout the cold season.

Landing dates

Spring garlic is planted after the end of frost, towards the end of April, starting from the second decade.

Joint cultivation

In addition to complying with the rules of crop rotation, it is equally important to find good neighbors in the garden. Neighboring plants will help to resist infectious diseases and protect from pests.

All types of salads and spicy crops are good neighbors for garlic. They can be planted in the same bed by alternating rows.

Garlic has a beneficial effect on the growth of nightshades - it repels the Colorado potato beetle and minimizes the harm of late blight. Garlic planted next to strawberry or wild strawberry bushes increases their yield and saves from aphids and ants.

Do not plant garlic next to cabbage, peas and legumes. This will slow down their development and minimize yields.

Spring garlic care

Spring garlic care consists in timely feeding, regular watering, weeding from weeds and loosening the soil.

Mulching a bed with garlic can reduce watering and prevent the soil from drying out in the heat.

Watering and feeding garlic

The most active growth of the green mass of garlic begins in May and lasts until mid-July. During this period, it is required to water the garlic beds 3-4 times a month. In the case of heavy rains and high soil moisture, watering should not be performed, since an excess of moisture leads to the development of fungal and bacterial diseases of the bulbs and yellowing of the leaves. In the second half of summer, watering should be significantly reduced, or stopped altogether.

Top dressing should be carried out 2 times during the growing season. The first feeding is carried out immediately after the appearance of green shoots. To prepare a solution, 2 glasses of wood ash are added to 10 - 12 liters of water. You can also feed the plants with any nitrogen fertilizer. The second feeding is carried out at the beginning of the formation of bulbs. For the second feeding, use humus or any mineral fertilizers.

Diseases and pests of garlic

To harvest a high yield of garlic, you must follow all the rules of planting, crop rotation, care and prevention of plant diseases.

Fungal diseases of garlic include peronosporosis, black mold, black neck rot, rust, green mold, black mold rot, white rot.

Garlic bulbs can be affected by fungus even during storage. Affected fruits infect healthy ones. The main symptom of the disease is the appearance of moist dark spots and sluggishness of the bulbs. A white bloom is visible on the surface of the heads, which turns green over time. Further development of the disease leads to a hollow bulb. Increased temperature and humidity in the storage room contribute to head disease.

There are fungal diseases that can infect garlic not only during storage, but also in the beds.

The symptoms of the disease are:

rapid yellowing and drying of leaves from top to bottom;
the formation of a white bloom at the base of the bush.

Gradually, the plant dies.

Prevention of fungal diseases will be compliance with crop rotation, correct predecessor plants, periodic renewal of planting material, by collecting and planting air bulbs.

To combat an already existing disease, fungicides are used - chemical preparations intended for dressing seeds and fighting plant fungus. The fungicide concentrate is toxic to both humans and animals.

If preference is given to an environmentally friendly product and there is no desire to treat plants with chemicals, folk remedies are used.

You can treat plants with infusion of calendula and yarrow. To do this, 50 grams of chopped green plants are poured with 1 liter of hot water. Insist for seven days. Before spraying, the infusion is diluted in water at the rate of 1 liter of infusion per 10 liters of water. The soil is cultivated before sowing and again, during the period of abundant development of green mass. This treatment will be effective against white rot.

No less problems are caused by pests of bulbous crops. Among the most common pests of garlic are onion fly, onion hoverfly, onion sharpener, onion thrips, onion lurker, onion moth, onion stem nematode, root mites, four-legged garlic mite.

To save the harvest, you need to take timely measures when the first signs of pests appear. Plants are recommended to be treated with well-proven insecticides (chemicals designed to combat harmful insects), such as Actellik, Neoron, Dimethoat-400, Calypso and others. Each product comes with detailed instructions for use.

It is important to know, when breeding bees in a summer cottage, that the use of insecticides can be detrimental to insects.

If there is no desire to use chemicals, then you can use folk methods of pest control. Among them, one can single out the treatment of plants with an infusion of shag - add 250 grams of shag and 1 tablespoon of hot red pepper to 2 liters of hot water. Insist 3 days. Then strain the tincture and dilute in 10 liters of water, adding 30 grams of liquid soap. This treatment will save the garlic from the onion fly.

Storing garlic

A cellar or basement is best for storage space.

Winter garlic is stored in a cool place. The temperature should be from +2 to +4 degrees Celsius and the humidity should not exceed 70 percent. The shelf life is 3 to 4 months.

Spring garlic is stored in a warm room at an air temperature of +16 to +20 degrees Celsius and humidity not exceeding 70 percent. The shelf life is 5 to 7 months.

Before placing the garlic for storage, you need to take care of processing the storage in advance. One of the methods of treatment is fumigation of the room with sulfur dioxide. It is also necessary to remove all plant residues from last year's food stocks. This will help avoid contamination of the bulbs during storage.

The storage area for garlic must be clean and dry with good ventilation. As containers for storage, boxes, boxes made of thick cardboard, baskets with frequent weaving, old nylon stockings, fabric bags, that is, any breathable material or container, are used.

Before placing the garlic in a container, it is important to sort out the bulbs, removing the damaged ones during digging. Clean from the ground and leave in the garden to dry or lay out under a canopy for 4 - 5 days. Then cut off the root and stem, leaving a stick about 10 to 12 centimeters long.

During storage, periodically inspect the bulbs, selecting the spoiled ones. Make sure that moisture does not get into the storage area.

If there is no special storage space, it is recommended to place the garlic in the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator.

In no case should you put the heads of garlic in a plastic bag, as it will quickly deteriorate. Better to put the garlic in a paper bag and put it in the refrigerator.

For storage in an apartment, take a plywood box and place the garlic in it, sprinkling the layers with dry sawdust. Glass jars are also suitable as containers. In this case, the garlic is sprinkled with salt, the jars are left open.

Paraffin wax from a melted candle can help extend the shelf life of garlic. To do this, dip each onion in hot paraffin. This will create a conservation effect.

The main criteria for storing garlic:

Room temperature;
Air humidity;
Premises processing.

If you want to store garlic not as a planting material, but for the purpose of using it for food, then pickling, canning and salting are widely used.

In conclusion, it can be noted that garlic is not only a useful product for humans, but also a good opportunity for making monetary profit without introducing large expenditures of material and labor resources.

To grow this plant, a large area of \u200b\u200bland is not required, and in the first year, subject to the cultivation technology, you can get a good harvest.

As you know, there are two types of garlic: winter and spring. Each of them has its own requirements for planting, growing and caring for the plant. In addition, they reproduce in different ways.

The features of reproduction, the rules for the selection of planting material, as well as what type of garlic is preferable in various conditions, will be discussed in this article. From it you will learn which species is most popular among gardeners, what needs to be done on the eve of planting, what requirements are imposed on the soil, how it needs to be fertilized, what depth of holes and distance between rows should be in order for the plant to take root in the best way on the site and give bountiful harvest.

It tells about the best time for planting different types of garlic. About what stages he goes through in his growth and how he needs to be looked after during a specific growth period. Particular attention is paid to watering and feeding. Beginner gardeners will be helped by tips and tricks that also relate to the fight against various diseases.

In addition to the general rules, the care, planting and cultivation of garlic has its own characteristics for winter and spring species. For the full development of the plant and the preservation of the crop, it is also necessary to ensure the fight against diseases and pests.

General rules for growing: types and methods of reproduction

Growing garlic has some nuances for the following types:

winter. Gives a shooter very frost resistant. It is planted in the fall, it hibernates, and in the next season a full-fledged large head grows;
spring. Doesn't give an arrow. Planting - in the spring, it is able to store more rows, but its yield is not so high.

Breeding methods, selection of cloves and seeds

Garlic reproduces vegetatively, the arrowhead species also propagates by seeds.

For planting from the spring species, only the cloves of the bulbs are selected, the winter one can be propagated by the cloves and seeds from the air bulbs. But in the latter case, you need to wait 2 years for the harvest of full-fledged bulbs.

For the first year, the bulb will give a small bulb set from one clove. It has the same health benefits as regular garlic. The next year, a normal bulb with many cloves will grow.

Gardeners often prefer shooting garlic: it gives a good harvest.

arrowed winter garlic

Reproduction is mainly carried out with cloves: the harvest of full-fledged bulbs is harvested in the year of planting. Every gardener knows how important it is to select the best, healthy seed. It is also recommended to periodically update the varieties. When selecting heads, it does not matter whether it is spring or winter - the healthiest and highest quality teeth are chosen according to the shape, weight of the teeth.

Required actions before planting:

sorting of material by size and appearance. Remove small, diseased, with cracked bottoms, irregular in shape, with two tops, shriveled, double garlic;
remove dry, flabby teeth with any diseases;
it is not recommended to plant garlic from plants that are sick with stem nematode and other diseases;
leave intact, large, whole garlic shell;
the selected material is subject to disinfection with an ash solution: 400 g of ash per 200 g of water. The mixture is boiled for half an hour, then cooled and drained. The teeth get wet in it for 2 hours. If there is a suspicion of fungal infection, the heads are kept in a formalin solution, and then dried.

Planting and growing of spring varieties of garlic is also carried out germinated material: this will speed up the growth of the plant.

Necessary conditions for germination: the teeth are wrapped in a damp cloth, placed in a polyethylene bag, kept for 3 days at room temperature. If grown with seeds from arrows, then choose healthy arrows with large baskets and dry them. They use the largest and ripe ones - small ones are also planted, but they will not give high-quality planting material.

Growing garlic: soil, beds, crop rotation

Proper garlic cultivation includes soil maintenance and fertilization. If it is poor, an additional complex fertilizer or superphosphates with potassium chloride (proportion 4: 1) is added to it. Ordinary manure added to the ground in the fall will increase the yield. It will take 5 kg per 1 sq. m., if the soil is very poor, you can increase this rate. But don't overuse this: garlic doesn't like too fertilized soil... The soil should be light, sandy or loamy.

Growing garlic will give good results if you create the necessary conditions, including sufficiently fertile soil, top dressing, watering. Sandy loam or loamy fertile soils that garlic loves should be cultivated and with acidity indicator closer to neutral... An excessively moist substrate, especially during the period when the soil is gaining moisture from melt water in spring, harms the development of the plant. In this case, winter varieties will get wet, and spring varieties will become impossible to plant on time.

Depending on the species planted, different depths, row widths, and row spacing are chosen. General care and prerequisites in all cases:

carefully leveled land, fertilizing mulching the beds after planting. For this, humus is used, less often peat. For 1 sq. m. 10 liters will be enough, that is, a bucket.
planting is done in beds with wide aisles. Place for them: sunny, well-lit.

bed for garlic

The following are the necessary conditions for the proximity of other plants and the seeding shift. The main thing is not to plant garlic in the beds where he and the onion were before. After them, you need to wait 4 years to renew the soil. The same goes for potatoes. After beets, cucumbers, cabbage, any legumes, pumpkin, garlic will give the best harvest. The soil after them, as a rule, is optimally fertilized with organic matter, it is easier to care for it, and the possibility of disease is reduced. But they do not recommend sharing the same beds with them: they inhibit the development and growth of garlic.

The best landing for light-loving garlic is on separate unshaded beds... If there is not much space, they organize rows adjacent to vegetables, it is also possible with berries. Neighborhood allowed with carrots, cucumbers, potatoes, black currants, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries. Neighborhood with gladioli, tulips, roses will be beneficial. Caring for the latter will be easier: garlic protects them from black spot.

Growing garlic of spring varieties

For spring varieties, planting in spring is relevant.

The necessary conditions:

landing after the snow has melted (April - May);
temperature regime for disembarkation from + 5 ° C and above. During this time, the soil is usually damp, so no watering is needed. If the soil is dry, you will need to moisten the soil abundantly.
the spring variety is planted at a depth of double the height of a clove (3-5 cm). If the clove was germinated, it must be planted carefully so as not to harm the roots. Further, the beds are immediately mulched. Planting and growing garlic is not particularly difficult. The rows are made with an interval of 18–20 cm, the garlic is placed every 7–9 cm.

Garlic sprouts at + 3 ° C and above, it is not afraid of frosts.

Necessary conditions for better development at different stages:

beginning of growing season: + 5 ... + 10 ° C;
nucleation, formation of bulbs: + 15 ... + 20 ° C;
development and maturation: + 20… + 25 ° C.

For a high-quality harvest, mulching the beds is mandatory, especially if the culture grows in a region with hot summers. Light mulch is recommended (from straw, hay).

planting garlic cloves

Planting garlic of winter varieties

Growing garlic of winter varieties has its own characteristics. Prerequisites for this:

disembarkation time: September October. Timeliness is important: early will cause growth ahead of time, which will reduce frost resistance; late - the cloves will not have the strength to root well, frost will prevent this;
the soil should settle, so the site is prepared a week before planting. Further, furrows are created, a layer of coarse sand or ash of 1.5-3 cm is poured on their bottom, so the seedlings will not come into contact with the soil and rot;
gap between rows - 20-25 cm, garlic is planted after 8-10 cm or 12-15 if they are very large. For winter crops, a deeper planting is desirable - 8 cm in loose soil.
care includes mulching the beds: this additionally protects from the cold. A 1.5–2 cm layer of mulch is enough. It is made from dry peat, a mixture of sawdust and earth. In case of severe frosts and low snow cover, the beds are covered with polyethylene, roofing material is also suitable. But they need to be removed immediately when snow begins to fall so that it covers the ground. A thicker layer of mulch can be used instead of these materials.

Planting seeds from bulbs is carried out at the same time to a 2-centimeter depth, according to a planting scheme of 2x10 cm. They are also sown in early spring - by mid-April. The harvest of the one-tooth, obtained from the arrows, is pulled out of the ground, dried, planted again - the next year they give full-fledged bulbs. Winter garlic is cold resistant. Rooted garlic can withstand winter and frost with temperatures down to -20 ° C. But if there is little snowfall, too low a temperature can lead to freezing, so it is imperative to mulch the beds, throw snow on them and cover them.

In the warm season, for winter varieties, the same care is needed as for spring varieties: the temperature regime, watering, top dressing, mulch in the summer months are the same.

Flower arrows in the respective winter species, they are removed when they reach 10 cm, which results in a more generous crop. Plants with arrows are left if bulb bulbs are needed for seeds.

Growing garlic: care, watering, feeding

Growing and caring for garlic consists of the following points: mulching, watering, loosening, feeding, weeding.

Watering the garlic should not be too abundant. Watering 10 liters per square meter is the norm if the soil is very dry. The interval is a week. As the water ripens, less water is required (8–6 liters) to prevent the bulbs from rotting. Watering is stopped two weeks before harvesting. Watering can be characterized by the following rule: excessive moisture harms garlic, but it requires systematic soil moisture, especially in the early growing season.

After each wetting, the soil loosens carefully 2–3 cm. If mulch is available, this is not required. The arrows are removed when they reach 5–8 cm - the harvest will be more generous. The first feeding is done after 2-3 leaves have formed: a large spoonful of urea is diluted in a bucket of water. For 1 sq. 5 liters will be enough. The next top dressing is in two weeks: a teaspoon of urea is enough for a bucket of water, one large spoonful of double superphosphate, potassium sulfate each. The third (last) top dressing - at the end of June, when garlic forms, bulbs form and arrows appear. For a bucket of water, 2 large spoons of double superphosphate and one of potassium sulfate are enough.

Top dressing combined with watering. In the period between fertilization, the plants are sprinkled with wood ash: one glass per 1 square meter. If mulch is available, loosening is not required. The best straw garlic mulch. The garden bed is covered with it when shoots reach 10-15 cm. It does not allow moisture to evaporate - watering can be done less often.

Top dressing is also carried out according to the following scheme:

first: in the spring after the snow melts. For this, solutions are well suited: manure (cow) (1:10) or bird droppings (1:12);
second: June - July. The solution is prepared from ash: 200 g per 10 liters of water.

Weeding carried out systematically as weeds appear. Watering for winter varieties should be more abundant. In winter, snow is thrown over the beds.

Watering rules:

the first phase (active growth) is abundant;
the second phase (ripening of the bulbs) is moderate;
during a rainy period, watering is stopped altogether.

High humidity in the second half of the growing season can be the cause of disease and damping of the bulbs.

Garlic from the head must be detached at the time of the landing itself. It is recommended to choose the most extreme slices: from them the harvest is more generous. Planting is carried out not by pressing into the soil, but by placing it in a dug hole.

As soon as the shoots are shown, the soil is loosened, but only 1–2 cm deep, then the bed is mulched, and the top dressing is done with mullein or urea. If the soil of the bed is dry, it should be watered, otherwise the garlic will be dry and bitter.

Growing garlic of spring varieties does not require deep planting - 2-3 cm is enough, for winter crops - 8 cm. The crop is harvested as soon as the leaves begin to dry out.

Growing garlic: pests and diseases

The cultivation of garlic is often accompanied by diseases:

helminthospirosis. The reason is fungus. Brown, depressed spots on the teeth. Over time, the spots turn black, the tissue of the teeth rots. Planting is not done with such teeth: chlorotic spots will appear on the plants, they will be lethargic, the leaves will die off. Garlic with white scales is most often affected. Infection occurs through low-quality material, so it is etched with formalin - 2-3 ml per half liter of water is enough. The teeth are dipped into it for 10 minutes in a bag. They are pulled out, wrapped in a cloth for 2 hours, then dried and aired. Garlic can become infected with this disease in the garden from bulbous or nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes);
neck rot. It appears along with other diseases. Especially develops with improper storage and transportation, as well as on unripe and damp heads. Infection can occur from diseased planting material or from the ground. Treatment: formalin disinfection of the storage area, sorting and removal of diseased material;
bottom rot - fusarium. The reason is fungus. Symptoms: yellow leaves, death of roots, mycelium (mycelium) bloom on the bottom of a white, pink hue, it is he who causes rotting of the bulb. Good results of treatment are given by the fungicide "Quadris", anti-fungal agents are also used;
bacterial rot. The causative agents are bacteria. Symptoms: brown sores on garlic, they become glassy, \u200b\u200bcolor changes, there is a rotten smell. Treatment: before planting, pickle in copper sulfate, in a fungicide, for example, in Fundazole;
powdery mildew - peronospirosis... Symptoms: a gray tinge on the leaves, arrows, dried affected parts of the plant, unripe bulbs. Means: etching with Thiram fungicide, fentiuram. Spraying with fungicides ("Arcerid", polycarbacid);
white rot. The reason is fungus. Symptoms: yellowing, leaf death, white mycelium on roots, bulbs. Means: pickling before planting with "Tiram", foundation, anti-fungal agents;
green mold - penicillosis... Means: disinfection of soil with copper-containing fungicides, care of planting material and its etching with formalin;
black mold - stemphiliosis... Symptoms: yellow spots on the leaves that gradually become covered with black mold. This is not fatal, but it reduces the harvest. Remedies such as against other fungal ailments;
stem nematode. Treatment: etching in a solution of potassium permanganate and formalin.

fusarium

Folk remedies for combating diseases of garlic:

against powdery mildew. Ash solution: 200 g per 10 l, aged for 5 days. Mullein infusion: 1 kg per 10 liters of water, you need to insist for a day. Horsetail decoction is also used for spraying;
against fungal diseases. Infusion of erect marigolds: 500 g is poured into 10 liters of hot water, insisted for 12 hours.

Of the pests, the most dangerous are onion flies, their larvae, they feed on bulbs. Dangerous onion hoverflies, thrips, lurkers, moths, stem nematodes, as well as mites: root and garlic. Means of struggle: insecticides "Rogor" or "Keltan", etching with colloidal sulfur.

Protect garlic planted nearby chicory, calendula.

Prevention and prerequisites for excluding diseases:

planting and growing garlic only from healthy seed, which is systematically checked and sorted during storage;
etching if necessary;
ventilation, cleaning, removal of organic residues from storage;