Rhododendron is an annual or perennial plant. Rhododendron: useful properties of the plant, growing technology and care. How to plant a garden rhodendron
I have long wanted to acquire such a blooming beauty as rhododendron. I searched the Internet, read literature, went to markets where seedlings are brought from nurseries.
From all the preliminary knowledge I took out a few things - this is that a beginner should start by breeding a species of rhododendron (it is better to “tame” fancy varieties later), get acquainted with the composition of the soil and the choice of location.
Then I planted the Ledebour rhododendron bush and the Daurian species. I fulfilled all the necessary requirements and took into account the advice, my plants did not die, although they grow rather slowly. These two shrubs are similar to each other, now I am thinking of buying a couple more seedlings.
In this article, I want to introduce you to the beautiful rhododendrons. You will learn when they bloom, how to grow them properly, and love them as much as I do.
Shrubs and trees of rhododendrons (Rhododendron) belong to the Heather family, they are evergreen and deciduous. In translation, it means rosewood, in fact, most species have different shades of pink. And the varieties bred by breeders can be of all sorts of shades: from white to purple.
Flowers in the form of a bell and a funnel, a tube and a wheel, their diameter is from one centimeter to 10. The leaves are elongated, tough, in the fall some bushes have an extremely decorative appearance.
More than 1000 species of this plant differ both in the shape of flowers and the coverage of the crown, and in height (from creeping shrubs to tall trees of thirty meters).
In natural conditions, it grows in temperate climates, preferring moist air and partial shade. Therefore, so often rhododendron is found in the undergrowth of pines and other conifers, on mountain slopes, as well as on the banks of rivers and seas, in swamps and in forest tundra.
The Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, the Far East and Altai, the Himalayas and Japan are not a complete list of places where you can see natural rhododendra thickets. AT landscape design the use of shrubs is very diverse, these are both single plantings and group, they plant greenery in sanatorium and park areas, house estates.
Types and varieties of rhododendron
Whoever has ever seen this plant in bloom will never forget it - it is a beautiful shrub. More than two dozen species of this crop and varieties obtained on their basis are widespread in Russia.
Attention! Deciduous rhododendrons are most suitable for our latitudes, they winter quite well, bloom for a long time, and do not require special care. Every gardener can grow them.
Daursky
A highly branched plant with pink-purple flowers grows in Siberia and Primorye, East Asia in coniferous forests, on rocky slopes. Suitable for cultivation in the middle lane and in the Urals, as well as in the north of Russia.
The evergreen shrub grows up to 4 meters in height (it grows very slowly), some of the leaves do not fall off for the winter. Inflorescences are funnel-shaped, up to 4 cm in coverage. Flowering begins in early May and lasts three weeks, sometimes it can bloom again in autumn.
It is a winter-hardy species, it loves light areas and takes root well, it blooms very beautifully, has brightly colored leaves, the Daurian rhododendron is effective all season.
Tree rhododendron
Grows naturally in North America in the highlands. Suitable for growing in the middle lane and other regions of Russia. It is a deciduous shrub with a wide crown (up to 6 meters), growing up to 3 meters.
Oblong green leaves turn crimson in autumn, blooms with fragrant white or pink flowers (coverage 50 mm.) in early July. This fragrance lasts for almost a month. It grows up to 7 centimeters per year.
Loves slightly acidic soils, loose and drained, prefers to be in a bright place. It tolerates winter well, is planted in parks, along roads, in single bushes.
Ledebour rhododendron
Another name is Maralnik, it grows in Altai and in the Sayan Mountains, forms thickets on mountain slopes and in undergrowth.
Protected in reserves. It blooms in May for 2 weeks (sometimes for a month), then beautiful pink-purple inflorescences appear again in the fall. They are quite large (up to 5 cm), and a shrub up to 150 cm tall looks very colorful during flowering.
This species is winter-hardy, it does not completely shed its leaves for the winter, but in the spring after flowering they will still fall off, giving place to fresh growth. Growth per year up to 7-8 cm, crown diameter over a meter.
Rhododendron Schlippenbach
Large deciduous shrub with woody shoots. As a garden culture it grows up to 150-160 cm, in nature up to 4 meters. Winter hardy, but requires shelter. One of the most beautiful rhododendrons with pale lilac speckled flowers, the inflorescence coverage reaches 10 cm.
Leaves are soft, on the shoot grow at the end (5 pieces in a brush), in the fall green color replaced by ocher red. It blooms in May-June, quickly gaining popularity among flower growers.
Countless varieties have been obtained by breeders around the world. 
April Snow
White double flowers bloom in early spring, the foliage of the bush is strong, height 160 cm. 
Cunningham
Scottish hybrid one and a half meters tall has white flowers with brownish blotches. 
Blue Peter
Height 1.5 meters, crown coverage more than 2 meters. The flowers are large (6 cm), blue, lavender. 
Liesma
Derived from the Japanese rhododendron (up to 2 meters high). Large salmon, orange-yellow flowers have a shiny surface. 
Narcissiflora
The bright yellow flowers smell nice and have a stellate appearance. The shrub grows up to 180 cm.
How to plant a garden rhodendron
Advice! So that you do not be disappointed by the death of an expensive seedling, try to get as much information as possible about the plant you are purchasing. Do not rely entirely on eloquent sellers; it is better to prepare for the purchase in advance.
Take the trouble to make sure the rhododendron is winter hardy and adapted to our latitudes. Planting does not take much time, and grooming can be quickly learned.
You can plant the plant in the fall (remove almost all of the buds) or in the spring when the ground thaws.
We choose a place protected from the wind, in a light partial shade. It is important that there is no direct sunlight. Plant in an area that is visible to the eye to observe the flowering.
- We spill the plant in a pot before planting so that the root system is prepared for transplantation;
- The hole for the plant should be dug 2 times larger than the coverage of the roots;
- We completely remove the natural soil from the hole, lay drainage on the bottom: broken brick, or crushed stone and sand;
- We pour soil for heather, or such a mixture: peat, leafy earth, humus, fallen needles;
- We put the tree in the hole and sprinkle it on top (to the root collar) with the same mixture of earth;
- Water abundantly, press the soil around and mulch the surface with peat.
Worth knowing! It is not for nothing that peat is the main ingredient of soil for rhododendrons. This plant loves slightly acidic or acidic soils, flavored with humus.
Bush care
Since the plant is moisture-loving, you need to water it abundantly with acidified water (vinegar or lemon), spray the crown in hot weather. It is necessary to mulch the trunk circle to retain moisture.
Important! The root system of rhododendrons is rather superficial and delicate, so loosening is undesirable.
Also, the bushes need to be regularly trimmed, removing diseased and dry branches, to form a beautiful habit.
The flowering shrub needs feeding. In the first year, fertilizer is applied in a very metered manner, in subsequent years you can water the rhododendron with mullein infusion, diluting in accordance with the instructions.
All summer, every 14 days, irrigate with complex fertilizers containing phosphorus. In addition to root infusions, spraying of the crown is encouraged.
How to propagate rhododendron
You can grow a plant through seeds, layering, cuttings and grafts, as well as dividing the bush. Since the crop grows very slowly, the seed method is not the best way, and such a bush will bloom not earlier than in 3-4 years. With this method of reproduction, all varietal characteristics of the plant are preserved.
Vegetative reproduction is more common:
- We root the layers by pinning to the ground in early spring, like other shrubs;
- We also cut the cuttings in spring or autumn from young shoots and add them in a greenhouse or in a pot with nutritious soil (most of the peat, less sand);
- You can divide the bush when it grows, carefully separating parts of the root, sprinkling the cuts with crushed charcoal and a quick transplant.
The easiest thing, of course, is to buy a ready-made seedling that professionals have grown for you.
What is rhododendron sick
Malfunctions in care - overflows and underflows, a change in the composition of the soil from acidic to alkaline, bright sun can contribute to diseases. It is rust, chlorosis and speck fungal diseases and pests.
If there are problems, we get rid of them with the help of insecticides, we establish a watering and feeding regime.
Place in landscape design
Favorite neighbors of rhododendrons are ferns, hosts, and other flowering shrubs. Plants are good in Japanese gardens among stones, in the shade of conifers.
Rosewood bushes are planted alone and in an alley, on the shore of a reservoir and near a gazebo, in a rock garden and a mixborder. Everywhere rhododendron will look elegant and spectacular.
The rhododendron plant is a native of the Heathers. In translation, the name rhododendron means rose tree. This is a fairly well-known plant for growing at home, and the common people call it indoor rhododendron.
General information
The plant is common in the Northern Hemisphere. Less common in Japan, Asia, North America. In the Ukrainian expanses, this plant grows in the subalpine zone, and only the Carpathian rhododendron. But only there they call him in their own way "Chervona Ruta". This species is listed in the Red Book.
The rhododendron flower grows in nature and in groups and single individuals. Found on the slopes of the mountains in marshy areas and in the tundra.
Rhododendron is an almost evergreen shrub plant or tree. The height of miniature species ranges from 10 cm to one meter, and there are exceptions, the height of which is about 30 meters.
The leaves of the plant are of various shapes and sizes, too. The foliage is arranged in a spiral manner. Leaf shape is oblong oval with slight pubescence. Inflorescences are presented in racemes or scutes, sometimes singly. The corolla is sunny or pinkish.
The fruits are formed in the form of capsules with many seeds. There are about 1300 plant species in their natural environment.
Varieties and types
It is a deciduous species, reaching a height of up to 2 meters. The shoots of the plant are directed upwards. The foliage is elliptical about 4 cm long and up to 1.5 cm wide. The inflorescences are solitary, pale violet. Flowering begins in mid-summer, after the leaves have fully emerged.
Dispersed shrub. The height of this species is about 3 meters. The foliage is oblong, about 12 cm long. Inflorescences are represented by up to 10 flowers in clusters and have a pleasant aroma. Flowering occurs at the end of spring.
It is an evergreen bush with many leaves reaching a height of 4 meters, but in to a greater extent the width of the bush exceeds the height. The shape of the leaf is in the form of an ellipse, about 15 cm long. The clusters contain up to 20 flowers. The corolla of the flower is purple. Flowering begins in late spring.
An accelerated view of about two meters in height. The leaves are shaped like maple leaves and are found at the ends of the stems. Inflorescences are pale pink interspersed, flower diameter is about 10 cm.
It is a bush, about 2 meters high. The shape of the bush is spreading. The foliage is elongated, about 10 cm in length, slightly pubescent. In autumn it has a yellowish-red tint. Inflorescences are scarlet, sunny shade, about 8 cm in diameter with a pleasant aroma. Flowering begins in the last month of spring. Duration of flowering is more than a month.
Quite common. Due to the abundance of flowers, leaves are hardly visible at all. Height is about one meter. Bell-shaped inflorescences. The shade of the flower is scarlet, yellow or pink.
This is not a large bush up to half a meter in height. In adults of the plant, the shade of the bark is dark gray. The leaves of the species are elongated with a rounded end. Juveniles have an individually pleasant, but more pungent aroma.
The inflorescences of the species have a light pink tintthat have no aroma. There are about 15 flowers in clusters. Flowering lasts the entire summer period.
At a height of about 1 meter 20 centimeters. With a brownish bark. Shoots are more accelerated.
The foliage is oblong in the shape of an oval. On the inside, the leaf is covered with hairs. Flowers are knocked into shields of about 8 pieces. The diameter of the inflorescence is about 3 cm. The shade of the petals is light or pale pink. It blooms in spring and is a good honey plant. The hybrid species is quite demanding in care and planting.
Not a large shrub. Spreading shoots. The foliage is alternate, about 8 cm in length, the surface of the leaf is olive shade, and on the inner side of a less distinct shade. Inflorescences on high legs, about 5 flowers per one. After flowering, the fruit is a box with small seeds. The scent of the plant is similar to that of fresh strawberries.
Not a voluminous tree in the shape of a ball. The foliage is narrowed, dense, glossy outside. The shade of the leaves is dark olive on the outside, and on the inside it has a chocolate shade with small villi.
The inflorescences are about 7 cm in diameter.Starting flowering, the petals have a pale pink hue, and by the end they acquire a rich white color... Flowering begins towards the end of spring.
Has a spherical bush. Hybrid plant from rhododendron katevsbinsky. The species was bred in 1851. Plant height is about 3 meters. Medium-sized elliptical foliage. Inflorescences with a pink tint and crimson spots. Flowering begins in late spring and lasts about a month.
Rhododendron planting and care
The landing site should be selected a little shaded. The northern part is desirable. It is preferable to plant rhododendron in early spring, in the first months of spring.
A rhododendron transplant is performed in the fall before the onset of frost. Also, the transplant can be done at any necessary period, only in advance of flowering one month, or after the plant has faded in a few weeks.
Soil for rhododendrons
The soil for planting should be light, loose with a good drainage layer. It is important that the soil is acidic and with sufficient fertilization. High-moor peat and loamy soil in a ratio of 8: 3 are suitable.
It is necessary to avoid stagnant moisture, otherwise the plant will die. It is necessary to plant a plant in a prepared hole about half a meter in diameter and the same depth.
To acidify the soil for rhododendrons. It is necessary to add recycled sawdust from coniferous trees or rotted coniferous needles to the soil.
At home, you can check if your soil needs acidification. To do this, you need to pour boiling water over currant or cherry leaves, and when the water cools down, throw some earth. If the water changes color to blue, then the soil needs acidification, if red, then it is normal. And if it changed its color to green, then the soil is neutral.
Caring for the plant does not require special skills, it is just necessary to loosen the soil in time and remove weeds.
Watering rhododendrons
It is preferable to provide the plant with moderate moisture. Water must be settled or, if possible, rainwater. The soil should be moist up to 30 cm deep. It is possible to determine whether it is necessary to water, by the appearance of the foliage, if they become faded and dull, then moisture is necessary.
Rhododendron loves enough humidified air about 65%, therefore it requires frequent spraying of the leaves.
Fertilizer for rhododendrons
The plant should be fertilized from early spring to the end of flowering in mid-summer. Feeding is carried out with cow liquid manure together with water in a ratio of 1:15. The plant must be watered before fertilizing.
The most practical fertilization option is mineral and organic complex fertilizers during early spring. During flowering with cow dung.
Autumn fertilization for rhododendrons is necessary after flowering. For this, phosphorus and potash fertilizers are suitable.
Pruning rhododendrons
Pruning the plant is required as needed to create the desired shape. Pruning is done in early spring, before the start of the growing season. Dry shoots are cut off and old branches are rejuvenated, the thickness of which is about 4 cm.
Plants that overwintered poorly or are outdated must be completely rejuvenated by cutting off all shoots at a height of about 30 cm from the ground.
Shelter of rhododendrons for the winter
Cover the plant if you have hot and frosty winters. For this, the bush is covered with dry leaves and sawdust. And the shoots themselves are covered with spruce branches and insulated with burlap.
The insulation must be removed after the snow melts in early spring.
Propagation of rhododendrons by cuttings
For this, cuttings are cut from adults large plants about 8 cm long. They are placed in a growth stimulator for half a day. And then they are planted in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1, then covered with cellophane, making a greenhouse.
Opening periodically for watering and airing. Rooting takes place up to 4.5 months. After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted into a mixture of peat and needles.
Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering
To do this, in the spring, a young shoot is instilled into a small groove about 16 cm deep and sprinkled with soil, during summer period watered, and when rooting occurs, transplanted separately.
Rhododendron seed reproduction
Seeds must be sown in a container with prepared peat, to a depth of about a centimeter. The container is covered with glass and the soil is periodically ventilated and moistened. The temperature for germinating seeds is about 15 degrees.
IT IS NECESSARY TO RECOGNIZE THAT AS RHODODENDRONES ARE GREAT IN THEIR LUXURIOUS BEAUTY, SO THEY ARE NOT EASY IN CULTURE. Unfortunately, very often the desire to plant them in your garden turns into failure. PLANTS REFUSE TO FLOWER, BURN ON THE SPRING SUN, DRY ON THE ROOT.
BUT IF YOU SELECT THE NECESSARY "KEYS" FOR THEM, SUCCESS WILL BE GUARANTEED. WHAT IS IMMEDIATELY YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT RHODODENDRONES AND HOW TO ACTION TO GET SUCCESS?
First of all, you need to remember that rhododendron and its relative azalea, belonging to the heather family, are acidophilous plants, that is, lovers of acidic soils (pH 3.5 - 5.5). And that says it all, this is the key word. This is what determines the rules for planting and feeding, requirements for the composition of the soil substrate, a strict choice of neighbors.
In addition, rhododendrons are extremely sensitive to growing conditions, more precisely to 
temperature and humidity. These are mountain plants, representatives of the alpine and subalpine flora, growing in the mountains, mostly at an altitude of 500 to 2000 m. They need a cool climate, high air humidity in alpine meadows where clouds cling to the ground and frequent fogs are observed.
Unfortunately, the Russian continental climate with low winter temperatures, scorching winds and hot summers is not for them - they would rather prefer European conditions with their short and mild winters, rainy and humid summers, autumn fogs. Therefore, they grow well in the Baltics, Finland, Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands, in Poland. And here - in the Kaliningrad region and in the St. Petersburg region on the Karelian Isthmus. Well, in England, they generally found their second home.
Here, in central Russia, not to mention the Urals or Siberia, we still need to contrive to provide these plants with more or less suitable conditions, similar to those they need: spray on hot summer days, create artificial "fog", shade from the drying sun in the spring and protect from winter winds and frosts. Most rhododendrons need good winter shelter, although in Europe they hibernate without any adaptations.
Since most natural forms of rhododendrons are inhabitants of mountainous regions, they grow on rocky soils and stony placers, which provides them with good drainage. Thickets of these plants are most often found on the northern slopes, which saves them from the bright mountain sun. In other places, they hide in the partial shade of pines, larch trees, junipers, or dwarf pine. Therefore, when cultivating rhododendrons, it is necessary to provide all the necessary conditions in which they exist in nature. If you want to plant these handsome men in your garden, be so kind as to arrange for them high-quality drainage, acidic soil medium, humid air (due to support), shading from the bright spring and midday sun - as well as the corresponding neighbors.
BUY RHODODENDRON - WHAT AND HOW?
When buying rhododendrons and azaleas, you should not give in to spontaneous decisions, guided only by an impulse, whether you like or dislike the shade of flowers. These plants usually come to garden centers in the spring in a flowering state, in a spectacular form. It is quite understandable that having seen such beauty, it is difficult to refrain from buying. But you risk getting a pig in a poke.
As a rule, plants are supplied by European nurseries in Germany, the Netherlands or Poland. Although they "come" in pots with ZKS, this does not guarantee a high quality of planting material (lump can be dried during a long journey and improper storage conditions). Therefore, when buying, you need to make sure that everything is in order with the root system, the roots have not turned black and have a lively appearance.
The roots should be light brown in color, with white tips (never black). The lump must be entwined with roots; it is desirable that it be visible thin threads mycorrhiza - mycelium, which is in symbiosis with rhododendron roots and contributes to the normal absorption of nutrients.
Ask the seller to remove the plant from the pot to make sure everything is okay. Bouncy appearance still does not mean anything: rhododendron does not immediately react to a ruined root system. There should be no spots on the leaves, the bark - no mold, the root collar - no white bloom and damage.
Going to a garden center or ordering plants on the Internet, the buyer must be prepared for such a crucial step as buying a rhododendron. Given the high cost of seedlings, this must be approached as responsibly as possible. It is worth at least to know the group to which this or that specimen belongs (deciduous, semi-evergreen, evergreen), its variety and origin (species or hybrid), is it an azalea or a "real" rhododendron, sizes in an adult state (there are dwarf plants, and there are giants), the rate of growth and expansion in breadth, the parameters of winter hardiness. Far from always such information can be provided to you in the garden center.
ON A NOTE
Count the stamens to distinguish azalea from rhododendron! The first has 5, the second has 10. It is important that the azalea is a deciduous plant that is better adapted to our harsh winters. Rhododendrons are deciduous, semi-evergreen (shedding leaves after flowering) and evergreen, which are the most troublesome for the gardener. And azaleas usually have flowers in yellow, orange or bright red colors. In rhododendrons, it is more diverse - from white, pink, lilac, lavender to violet and purple.
When choosing seedlings, experienced gardeners and culture experts give priority to supplies from Germany and Poland, but the quality of Dutch plants is usually questioned. Finnish varieties are also praised (as the most winter-hardy and suitable for our winters). Latvian breeders have also achieved success in this direction.
Beginners should not start right away with the acquisition of a large number of planting units - first they need to understand the nature of such a specific plant as rhododendron, so to speak, practice, observe. If everything works out as it should - only then expand the collection.
In this case, you should worry about color harmony purchased plants, their compatibility in width and height. A common mistake is planting varieties that are very wide in breadth next to each other. In many rhododendrons, the width of the bush (do not forget that these are bushes!) Is twice its height. When planning planting, one must bear these circumstances in mind so as not to disturb the plants with transplants later. In addition, you need to find out the timing of flowering, which, with the correct selection of varieties, allows you to extend the decorative season to one and a half months.
Experts advise purchasing three-year (deciduous) or five-year (evergreen) seedlings: usually at this age, rapid growth of shoots and the first full flowering are noted.
LANDING OF RHODODENDRON
When choosing a planting site, it is important to know that as neighbors of rhododendrons, trees with a shallow root system should be avoided, the proximity of which will oppress the rhododendrons. First of all, these are birches, aspens, spruces, maples and chestnuts. This also applies to lilac bushes, the roots of which work as a pump, depriving the surrounding plants of the necessary moisture. The best companions of rhododendrons are pine and oak, trees with taproot systems. Especially - pine, since mycorrhiza living on the roots of the pine enters into symbiosis with the root system of rhododendrons. If the rhododendron is planted near buildings, then their northern or northeastern side is preferable. You just need to keep in mind that the roof does not drip during the rain and the snow does not slide in the spring.
Due to the fact that rhododendrons do not tolerate excessive moisture, the area where the seedlings are supposed to be planted must be drained, and the groundwater level must be at least a meter above the ground.
Swampy and flooded places in spring and after rain are completely unsuitable for them. A place in the form of a raised flower bed for a group of plants is advised to cook ahead of time so that the earth shrinks. It is better to plant individual specimens on bumps so that the root system does not block.
Since rhododendrons have a compact root system, they do not need a spacious pit. Its dimensions can be no more than 40 - 60 cm in diameter, depending on the variety, and the depth can be two heights of the earthen coma. If the soil on your site is initially heavy, then the hole can be slightly widened and deepened. At the bottom, a drainage layer of 20 cm is made of broken brick and coarse sand.
The day before planting, the hole should be thoroughly shed, and the rhododendron should be soaked right in the pot for several hours, or better for a day in a bucket of water and wait until the air bubbles stop coming out. You can resort to the use of root-formation stimulants, dust it with Kornevin powder, or treat it with a solution of potassium humate (all according to the instructions!).
When planting, you should try not to deepen the neck of the plant. This is dangerous! In this case, the plants refuse to bloom and eventually die. Therefore, it is better to let the neck be 2 - 4 cm above ground level, so that when the pit settles, it is not sucked into the depth. Then be sure to mulch the plantings with peat, crushed bark or pine litter with a layer of at least 6 - 8 cm.
Try to keep the mulch away from the root collar (which causes it to dry out). If you purchased a rhododendron in a flowering state (this happens quite often), then the flowers and buds, as much as you want, will have to be broken off. This will give a signal to the plant to lay new buds and make it easier and faster to settle in a new place.
SUMMER RHODODENRONE CARE
Summer care comes down to keeping the soil moist and regularly sprinkling over the leaves. If the weather is dry, it is imperative to water it once a week with soft settled rainwater, preferably slightly acidified (1 teaspoon of citric acid per 10 liters of water). The rate of water consumption is 2 buckets per adult bush once a week. At the end of the season, it is imperative to provide water-charging irrigation - this is absolutely necessary condition for a successful wintering.
After flowering, it is necessary to break out (and not cut out!) The faded inflorescences, to give room for the formation of new flower buds, which will appear by autumn. To do this, keep the axillary buds on the upper leaves.
It is necessary to fertilize well-planted rhododendrons only 2 times per season - in April, before flowering and immediately after flowering. Top dressing is recommended to be given mainly in liquid form, when watering - try to prevent the solution from getting on the neck of the plant, which 
very sensitive. It is best to use a special chlorine-free fertilizer for azaleas and conifers at the rate of 30 g (1 tablespoon with a slide) per 10 liters of water. A solution of potassium sulfate, or ammonium sulfate, or superphosphate is also used. The fertilizer for rhododendrons "Ferrovit" with a high iron content in a chelated form is praised.
At the same time, they are categorically contraindicated in manure and mullein solution. In addition, ash that alkalizes the soil is prohibited. With a lack of magnesium and iron, rhododendrons can develop chlorosis (when the leaves turn yellow). In order to avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, solutions of acidic salts are used - magnesium sulfate or ferrous sulfate. At the end of summer, no feeding is carried out so as not to provoke the regrowth of young shoots that do not overwinter!
The bushes are cut in May: old, dry, not overwintered branches are removed, some of the young shoots are shortened, giving the bush a harmonious shape.
It is impossible to loosen the ground around rhododendrons, since their root system is close to the surface of the earth. All maintenance problems (weed control, maintaining optimal soil moisture and nutrition) are solved by a universal method - mulching. For this, peat, crushed pine bark, pine litter are used. And if in other cases this technique is welcomed, then when caring for rhododendrons it is simply a must!
Expert advice
The composition of the soil substrate, ideally: red high-moor peat (in the absence of which black peat can be dispensed with), garden soil or leaf humus, compost and coarse sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1 with the addition of pine needles and sphagnum moss (20%) ... It is good to add half-decayed bark or shredded fragments of a half-decayed pine stump that can be found in the neighboring forest. A handful of "long-lasting" mineral fertilizers will not hurt either. The soil mixture is prepared in a garden wheelbarrow, where the components are measured in appropriate proportions with buckets; then everything is thoroughly mixed. And then the landing pits are filled with this mixture.
RHODODENDRON'S WINTER SHELTER
Unfortunately, the Russian winter is not the best time in the life of most rhododendrons. Many species do not withstand severe frosts, most need winter shelter.
The area of \u200b\u200bthe root collar is usually covered with a thick layer of dry leaves, preferably oak or birch. This is usually done after the ground has set in frost so that the neck does not come out (as a rule, not earlier than mid-November). "Headlong" is covered by undersized alpine dwarfs. To prevent the leaves from being blown away by the wind, a fence is made around of net-k and or lutrasil on a frame of vertically stuck sticks about half a meter high. The top is specially sewn from two layers of lutrasil (60 g / m 2). Now such caps of various sizes have appeared on sale, which is very convenient when working with both rhododendrons and small conifers, which can thus be protected from freezing rain and the scorching spring sun.
Higher specimens are bent to the ground, like roses, pinning the shoots with special hooks or spears, covered with spruce branches. This usually applies to deciduous azaleas, which, having shed their foliage, will winter under the snow.
But the biggest problem that happens to evergreen and semi-evergreen rhododendrons is the burning of leaves in spring. This happens because when the root system is not working, the leaves nevertheless continue to evaporate moisture. Evergreen rhododendrons are trying to somehow resist this process on their own, rolling the leaves into a tube.
You don't need to be afraid of this: this is a physiological phenomenon that allows the rhododendron to reduce transpiration at sub-zero temperatures. But this often does not help. With large differences in night and day temperatures that occur in February-March, the so-called sunburn, when the leaves are burned, the flower buds laid down in the fall wrinkle and eventually die.
Therefore, evergreens overwintering with leaves should be protected from bright sunlight, the effect of which is greatly enhanced by albedo (the reflection of sunlight from the snow cover).
ON A NOTE
Relatively winter-hardy species of rhododendrons: Daurian rhododenedrone, Ketevbinsky rhododenedron, Japanese rhododenedron, short-fruited rhododenedron, Smirnov's rhododenedron, Forchun's rhododenedron, Schlippenbach's rhododenedron, deciduous rhododenedrone, Rhododenedrone canadian, rhododendron pink
The threshold of winter hardiness for most of them is -24 ... -26 C. Finnish varieties are also distinguished by increased winter hardiness, which should be borne in mind when buying. For example, the ‘Helsingin Yliopisto’ variety is winter hardy and tolerates frosts down to -35 ‘C.
To do this, they make special shields of plywood or build frame houses made of roofing material, which protect not only from the sun, but also from the drying winter winds. These shelters are removed in the spring in cloudy weather, when the soil has completely thawed and warmed up, and the root system will start working in the plants. With the onset of sap flow, the signs of freezing gradually disappear, the appearance of the leaves is restored. This process can be accelerated by spilling the soil around the plants with warm water (+ 60 ° C).
And if you spray evergreen specimens with water at room temperature several times in early spring, the leaves will unfold again and take their original shape (provided that they were not damaged by severe frosts).
If the leaves remain twisted, brown, completely lost their turgor for a long time, then the rhododendron inevitably dies. This means that during wintering there was an irreversible loss of moisture, and even after thawing of the soil, the plant is not able to restore the watercourse normal for its further life.
In this case, urgent measures will be required - spraying with plain water or a solution of the Epin-Extra immunomodulator (according to the instructions on the package). If this does not help, there is nothing to be done - the plant is doomed. What is the conclusion from this?
Better to plant deciduous varieties, they are much simpler and more reliable in culture where severe winters occur.
THE MOST MOST ... RHODODENDRONS
RHODODENDRONS ARE ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SHRUBS. AND ARE NOT THE MOST DIFFICULT IN THE GARDEN! ESPECIALLY - IN THE NORTH-WEST, WHERE, PROPERLY, A LARGE NUMBER OF TYPES OF NATURAL FLORA WAS INTRODUCED TO THE CULTURE EARLY IN THE XIX CENTURY, AND AT THE SAME TIME THEY WERE EXPERIENCED IN THE OPEN SOIL AND BROKEN IN PI. OUR PASMURAL,
COOL AND RAIN WEATHER SUITES RHODODENDRONS BETTER. AND IT IS WORTH ONLY TO DO THE MORE DETAILS OF THEM, AS YOU IMMEDIATELY FALL UNDER THEIR CHARM, AND BEGINS: IS NOT TO PLANT THIS STILL IS THIS, AND NOT TO TRY THIS GROUP ...
The claw is stuck - the whole bird is abyss: the garden is filled with rhododendrons to the limit, and they also grow, and rather quickly. The question of my favorite varieties or species of rhododendrons took me, frankly, by surprise. I had to write about beautiful and sustainable. There is a great variety of both, and they are very different, and it is extremely difficult to choose favorites. For example, there are our seedlings of more than twenty years of age, which, perhaps, are not the most beautiful,
but the dear ones are that there was only a small seed, and now the bushes are taller than me. Or, say, a rusty rhododendron. In bloom, it is not the most spectacular, but a champion in sustainability: it can grow in full sun without a shade, do without watering, mulching and dressing, has a dense pillow-shaped crown and a wonderful resinous foliage aroma. Plus to this - it is also well cut and gives layering ... Still, I'll try to choose the best.
Rhododendron sticky
For many years, I have never missed a flowering rhododendron in our garden. It is a deciduous species and grows in a round, very densely branched bush. Our specimens are about a meter high and larger in diameter. The leaves are small, dense, shiny, dark green until late autumn. Flower buds do not differ so characteristically from growth buds as in other deciduous rhododendrons (and all these plants lay them in the current season, that is, in the fall the bush will tell you if it is ready to bloom in spring). Blooms late, at the end of June. A single flower is the height of grace: medium-sized, with a long tube, sharp tips of petals and far protruding stamens. And when the bush blooms, it seems that a lace shawl is thrown over it. But that's not all: p. glutinous is one of the most aromatic. The smell is similar, in my opinion, to the aroma of a feathery clove: subtle, slightly sweetish.
X. Hachman varieties
Many of them grow well with us, differing in especially long flowering, rich color of flowers (which does not suffer from weather troubles), full inflorescences and a beautiful form of bushes ( Nabucco, 'Satomi', Stefanie, Fantastic, Lumina, Schneekroneand many, many others). So, Duft-series. There are three varieties in it, of which I would especially single out two - Karminduft with ruby \u200b\u200bred flowers and Juniduft with pale pink. Ruby red is an incorrect definition, but it is difficult to pick up one thing from the “berry” arsenal: here shades of ripe raspberries, lingonberries, and cherries are, in general, a very beautiful, rich tone. The bushes are quite tall and wide - about 1.5 m in height and somewhat smaller in diameter with a dense crown. Both varieties bloom from late June to mid-July, very fragrant. They are good at landing in pairs, the pink Juniduft is the first to bloom, and about a week later Karminduft picks up the baton. Even better, if you plant them in the background, and place the sticky rhododendron in front - then all three bloom with a luxurious bouquet, and they smell!
The whole garden! Another advantage is the beautiful autumn color of the leaves: with a decrease in temperature, they acquire wine-red and orange-purple hues, standing out against the background of the general autumn crimson of the garden.
ON A NOTE
Rhododendron sticky has been quite actively used and is now used in hybridization. Most of all, I like the varieties with his participation, obtained in Germany by Hans Hachmann in the early 2000s; in the name they have the word Duft ("flavor").
Evergreen rhododendrons - a special article
Evergreen rhododendrons are more difficult in the garden than deciduous ones, because they require protection from the early spring sun: under its rays the leaves evaporate moisture, and the roots in the frozen ground still do not work, and the rhododendron "burns" (the leaves simply dry out). It is good if the shade is natural - the crowns near the located trees protect the bush.
But there is another danger - the root system of the neighbors-defenders should not be aggressive, since the rhododendron will successfully withstand the competition and will inevitably suffer in the struggle for moisture and nutrition. So the choice of a place in the garden for an evergreen rhododendron is not the best simple task... It should be calm, shaded and free from potential offenders. As for winter hardiness, there are many varieties that can tolerate our winters without damage and bloom well every year.
In particular, these are Finnish varieties. We have already tested well over fifteen, 
and of them I would single out two (I would like more, but the article will not fit). And I don't even know which one I like better - Haaga or Helsinki University... Both are pink, light, the color is cheerful, without a lilac shade, Haaga is only slightly brighter, and this is noticeable if they are planted next to them. Both are distinguished by fast growth, strong shoots and a beautiful even bush shape - Haaga is lower, about 150-160 cm in height, slightly smaller crown span, and Helsinki University is 180 cm and 1.5 meters in diameter. Bloom at the same time, bloom in our area around June 10. At this time, the bushes look like luxurious pink hills. Compared to the tried and tested old guard of Ketevba rhododendron varieties - ‘Roseum Elegans’, ‘Grandiflorum’, ‘Boursault’ and others, then with complete reliability and excellent winter hardiness of both, a more durable and compact bush will go to the Finnish varieties, and a possible minus - a shorter flowering time. What is the correct conclusion? Yes, both must be planted.
Evergreen rhododendrons are very different. Among them there are very small creatures, miniature varieties with flowers of heavenly color, and of the Himalayan sky; it is there, in the mountains of Tibet, that their parents grow - dense rhododendron, equal rhododenron, r. blushing and others. They are very good, many are quite resistant, and varieties work better in the garden than species.
For example, baby ‘Ronny’... The bush is covered with small bluish leaves, about 40 cm in height and about 50 cm in diameter. It blooms in mid-May, the flowers are purple during the day and blue in the evening. In my opinion, such varieties are best planted in groups, choosing a place that is light but cool (like the northern slope, northern terrace).
It looks extremely impressive when, during flowering, shades of blue, lilac, lavender merge together, and the whole group resembles an open jewelry box: there are sapphires, and alexandrites, and amethysts ...
Yakushiman rhododendrons
There are also medium-sized varieties in the evergreen group. These are the so-called Yakushiman rhododendrons (varieties obtained with the participation Rh. degronianum subsp. yakushimanum). They bloom somewhat earlier than their tall counterparts and develop dense cushion bushes with very dense and beautiful foliage. Young shoots covered with dense pubescence are attractive. One of the most beautiful, in my opinion, varieties - Fantastica... The crown is completely regular, round-cushion-shaped, uniformly dense, the leaves are dark green, and the flowers are both bright and delicate.
When growing varieties of this group, it should be borne in mind that they are photophilous. When planted with significant shading, they lose their remarkable compactness and crown density and stop blooming. But I would not plant them either in full sun either: it is desirable that they be at least slightly covered from the brightest midday rays.
FINNISH RHODODENDRONS
Work related to obtaining winter-hardy varieties began in 1973, and they were carried out at the Department of Botany of the University of Helsinki. This work was supervised by Peter Tigerstedt. The goal of the breeders was to create varieties of rhododendron that could grow in the not-so-simple climate of Finland.
One species rhododendron was taken as a basis - rhododendron short-fruited... It came to the oldest and largest arboretum in Finland - Arboretum Mustila - from North Korea in 1931. In the process of breeding new varieties, 14,000 specimens were selected, which were planted throughout Finland, in various regions, and which were monitored for 13 years. During this time, the plants survived several severe winters, a number of seedlings died, but in the end only the most persistent ones remained! Today we will tell you about those varieties that seem to us the most promising.
HIGH VARIETIES
'Helsingin Yliopisto'
This fairly hardy variety is known to us under the name 'Helsinky University. It has pale pink flowers with small orange specks. Leaves with a waxy bloom, shiny, deep green with a reddish tint. The bush is more than 2 m in height, erect. The variety is named in honor of the 350th anniversary of the University of Helsinki.
‘Mikkeli’
This variety got its name from the city of Mikkeli; it, like the previous one, belongs to the group of high varieties and reaches a height of 2 m. The buds of this rhododendron are pink; opening, they become lighter, and already fully opened flowers are white. The leaves are dark green, with silvery pubescence on the underside.
'P.M.A. Tigerstedt '
This tall, upright variety is named after Professor Tigerstedt. He has large, showy flowers, they are practically white, with tiny burgundy specks, and dark green pubescent leaves. The flowers are very large, extremely showy, almost pure white, with burgundy specks. If the weather is hot, dry, it may suffer from a lack of moisture, therefore, during such periods, it needs regular watering.
MEDIUM VARIETIES
Axel tigerstedt
This variety reaches a height of about 1.5 m, the bushes form a beautiful rounded shape. The flowers are slightly pinkish. The tips of young shoots are covered with white hair and somewhat resemble lilies.
This variety reaches a height of 1.5-1.6 m. The bushes are not very dense, grows in width much faster than in height. Flowers of a beautiful purple color pink, with specks on the perianth petals. The leaves are similar to the leaves of the species r. Katevbinsky. It dissolves in the first half of June.
Unlike most varieties, it normally tolerates a lack of moisture in the soil.
This is a fairly well-known variety in Russia. It reaches a height of up to 1.5 m. The bushes are erect, beautifully rounded. The flowers are deep pink, with specks, collected in large brushes. They are somewhat similar to the flowers of the 'Helsingin Yliopisto' variety. The leaves are beautiful, shiny, dark green. It opens rather late, in the second half of June. Abundant flowering. 
Hellikki
The variety reaches a height of 1.3 m. The bush forms a beautiful, round shape. It grows slowly. The flowers are beautiful, dark, purple-reddish. Above, the leaves are dark green, below - with grayish pubescence, the same nap is found in young shoots and buds. It blooms in June and blooms profusely for about 2 weeks. It suffers from the bright early spring sun, so it is better to choose areas in partial shade for it.
This variety reaches a height of about 1.3 m. It forms stocky erect bushes. Bell-shaped flowers, bright red. Buds and leaf buds also red. The leaves are medium-sized, dark green. Blooms early. It feels best in areas in partial shade, protected from the wind. It does not tolerate a lack of soil moisture, therefore, it must be watered in hot, dry periods.
LOW VARIETIES
This variety reaches a height of only 70 cm. It forms dense, rounded bushes. The flowers are medium-sized, bright, purple-red, somewhat reminiscent of a fully opened bell in shape. The leaves are long, slightly rounded, rich green, with lighter veins on the underside.
Kullervo
It reaches a height of 1 m. Bushes are rounded, dense, well branched. The buds are red, the blossoming flowers are snow-white. It blooms in June, the clusters of flowers are dense, rounded. Young leaves are covered with light nap.
Pohjolan tytar
This variety reaches a meter in height and up to 4 m in width. It can be used as a ground cover plant. Its bushes branch out densely almost from the root, so it is suitable for creating a low hedge. The buds of this rhododendron are lilac-red, the flowers are large, the same color when blooming, but later they brighten and become almost white. It opens in early summer.
This variety has the most flexible branches of all. undersized varieties Finnish selection. It reaches a height of about a meter. The bushes are beautiful, regular round shape, dense. The flowers are bright pink, slightly drooping. The leaves are dark green. It dissolves in early June.
11 FACTS ABOUT RHODODENDRON
RHODODENDRON IS AN EFFECTIVE, BUT NOT THE MOST SIMPLE SHRUB THAT GROWS WITH VARIABLE SUCCESS IN THE CONDITIONS OF THE MIDDLE LAND OF RUSSIA. BUT, IN SPITE OF ALL THE DIFFICULTIES OF ITS GROWING, FLOWER GROWERS STILL WANT TO SEE THIS BEAUTIFUL IN THEIR GARDENS
1. Some types of rhododendrons are real trees that can reach up to 30 m in height.
2. Many species of rhododendron are poisonous (pollen and nectar of rhododendron contain the toxic substance andromedotoxin, it first excites nervous system, then - oppresses her).
3. Honey, obtained from the flowers of some types of rhododendron, has hallucinogenic and laxative properties. The ancient Greeks and Romans were familiar with his side effects... Although most types of honey do not have this effect, it has a tart taste.
4. Red arboreal rhododendron - the national flower of Nepal.
5. In Nepal, rhododendron is used in the form of juice from petals, and its pickled flowers are also used as food.
6. Rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere, from the Arctic latitudes to the tropics.
7. Labrador tea is also a rhododendron. From it get essential oils, which are used as an anti-inflammatory, antiviral and diuretic.
8. Rhododendron is a real long-liver. Despite the fact that most representatives of this genus are shrubs (and most shrubs are short-lived), they can live up to 100 years.
9. The name of the plant comes from the Greek words rhodon ("rose") and dendron ("tree"), and it turns out that rhododendron is "rose tree".
10. In the East, rhododendron is a symbol of female attractiveness.
11. The branches of wild rosemary, which are very often sold in the early spring in the passages of the grandmother and which must be placed in the water so that they bloom, is also a rhododendron.
Plant rhododendron (lat.Rhododendron) - a genus of semi-deciduous, deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs of the Heather family, which, according to various sources, includes from eight hundred to one thousand three hundred species, including azaleas that are popular in indoor floriculture, which are nicknamed "indoor rhododendron". The word "rhododendron" consists of two roots: "rhodon", which means "rose", and "dendron" - a tree, which as a result forms the concept of "rose tree", or "tree with roses." But azaleas really look like roses.
In nature, rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere - in southern China, Japan, the Himalayas, North America and Southeast Asia. Most often they are found in the coastal zone of rivers, seas and oceans, in partial shade undergrowth and on the northern slopes of the mountains. Some rhododendrons are capable of growing up to 30 cm in height, while others are creeping shrubs. The flowers of plants of this genus differ in size, color, and shape. Suffice it to say that the smallest of them are literally tiny in size, and the largest reach a diameter of 20 cm. The garden rhododendron today has about 3,000 forms, varieties and varieties.
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Planting and caring for a rhododendron (in brief)
- Landing: April to mid-May or September to November.
- Bloom: in late April-early June for 2-3 weeks. Abundant flowering occurs in a year.
- Lighting: partial shade or shade.
- The soil: well-drained, loose, humus-rich, acidic.
- Watering: The soil should be soaked with slightly acidified water to a depth of 20-30 cm. A sign that it is time for watering is the loss of turgor by the leaves.
- Cropping: minimal, in early spring, before sap flow begins.
- Top dressing: liquid organic matter (solution of cow manure or horny flour) or solutions of mineral fertilizers on pre-moistened soil from early spring to late July.
- Reproduction: seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, cuttings and layering.
- Pests: aphids, mealybugs, bedbugs, weevils, spider mites, scale insects, rhododendra flies, snails and slugs.
- Diseases: chlorosis, rust, powdery mildew, leaf spots and cancer.
Read more about growing rhododendron below.
Rhododendron flower - description
Garden rhododendron is represented by shrubs with leaves of various sizes and shapes - annual, biennial and perennial, sessile or petiolate, alternate, whole-edged or serrate, ovate or obovate. The rhododendron flower is popular all over the world due to the decorativeness of its foliage, but its main advantage is the magnificent flowers of white, pink, red, purple, lilac, collected in shields or brushes, reminiscent of a chic bouquet. Depending on the variety and species, the shape of the flowers can be bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, wheel-shaped or tubular. In some species, the flowers emit a pleasant aroma. The fruit of the rhododendron is a polyspermous five-leafed capsule with seeds up to 2 mm in size.
The root system of the rhododendron is compact, superficial, consisting of many fibrous roots, and it is precisely because of its superficial location that rhododendron transplantation is easy and does not cause much trouble to either the gardener or the plant. Rhododendron is an excellent early spring honey plant.
Planting a rhododendron
Where and when is the best place to plant rhododendron
In our climate, rhododendrons in the garden make sense to grow exclusively winter-hardy. Planting rhododendron in the ground is carried out from April to mid-May, as well as from September to November. Actually, if necessary, this can be done at any time during the growing season, with the exception of the time when the rhododendron blooms, and within one to two weeks after flowering. It is better to plant rhododendron in the shade, on the north side of the building, in loose, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus.
If the groundwater in your area lies at a depth of less than one meter, the rhododendron is planted on a raised bed.
Rhododendron neighbors can be pine, oak, larch - trees with a root system extending deep into the interior. Trees such as linden, chestnut, alder, maple, willow, elm or poplar will deprive the rhododendron of the nutrition it needs because its roots will feed at the same depth as rhododendron roots. If it is not possible to avoid such a neighborhood, you will have to protect the root system of the rhododendron by digging roofing material, slate or polyethylene into the ground. Good neighbors for rhododendron are considered garden trees - apple trees, pears.
How to plant a rhododendron
A thoroughly mixed mixture of 8 buckets of high-moor peat and 3.5 buckets of loam is poured into the planting hole with a diameter of about 60 cm and a depth of about 40 cm (you can replace the loam with two buckets of clay). The mixture at the bottom of the pit is carefully rammed, and then a hole is dug in it, corresponding to the size of the root ball of the seedling. Before planting, immerse the rhododendron seedlings in water and keep them there until no more air bubbles. Then place the roots of the seedling in the hole, fill the hole to the top with the substrate, tamping it down so that no voids remain. The root neck of the rhododendron should eventually be at the level of the surface of the site.
Water the bush abundantly if you planted rhododendron in dry soil so that the soil is soaked 20 cm deep, and mulch the trunk circle with peat, oak leaves, moss or pine needles with a layer of 5-6 cm.If there are a lot of flower buds on the bush, part is better remove from them in order to direct the forces for successful rooting, and not for the flowering of rhododendron. When planting alone in a spacious area, so that the wind does not sway the newly planted plant, you need to stick in the support, tilting it towards the direction of the most frequently blowing winds, and tie the seedling to it. As soon as the bush takes root, the support can be removed.
Rhododendron care
Caring for a rhododendron includes the usual procedures: watering, spraying, weeding, feeding, forming a bush and fighting diseases and pests, if the need arises. To loosen the soil around the rhododendron, and even more so to dig it up, cannot be categorically due to the plant roots located too close to the surface. For the same reasons, weeds must be removed manually, without using a hoe.
Rhododendron needs soil and atmospheric moisture more than other plants, especially during bud formation and flowering. Proper watering also affects the laying of flower buds next year. Watering is carried out with soft water - settled or rainwater. You can soften and at the same time acidify the water for the rhododendron by adding a few handfuls of high-moor peat to it a day before watering. The frequency of watering is determined by the state of the leaves: if they become dull and lose turgor, it means they are thirsty. When moistened, the soil should get wet to a depth of 20-30 cm.
However, it is very important, when watering rhododendron, not to flood the roots, since the plant is sensitive to excess moisture in the roots, but behaves when waterlogged in the same way as during drought - it lowers and folds the leaves. So that the rhododendron does not mislead you, in dry and hot weather try, without increasing the amount of water when watering, spray the rhododendron leaves with soft water as often as possible.
Pruning rhododendron
Pruning rhododendrons should be kept to a minimum, as their shrubs form the correct shape by themselves. However, sometimes it is necessary to mow bushes that are too tall, remove frozen shoots or rejuvenate old rhododendron. How to prune an adult bush correctly? Shoots are pruned in early spring, before sap flow begins. In those places where the thickness of the branches reaches 2-4 cm, the cuts are treated with garden pitch. After a month, dormant buds awaken on the shoots, and the renewal process begins, which takes place throughout the year.
Very old or very frozen bushes are cut off at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground: in the first year, one half of the bush, the next year - the second.
Rhododendrons have one feature: in one year they bloom and bear fruit very abundantly, and the next year the flowering and fruiting of rhododendrons are much more modest. To get rid of such a periodicity, it is necessary to break out the wilted inflorescences immediately after flowering so that the rhododendron uses its strength and nutrition to form flower buds for the next year.
Feeding rhododendron
You need to fertilize even those rhododendrons that were planted in the current year, and the first top dressing is applied in early spring, and the last one at the end of July, after flowering, when young shoots begin to grow. Rhododendrons prefer liquid feeding from half-rotted cow dung, horn meal. Manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:15 and allowed to brew for several days, and only then used as fertilizer. Before applying top dressing, the rhododendron is watered.
Since rhododendrons grow in acidic soils, in order not to disrupt the reaction of the environment, it is preferable to use ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, nitric acid, sulfate or phosphate potassium, calcium sulfate and magnesium in a very weak concentration - 1.2: 1000 from mineral fertilizers, and a solution of potassium fertilizers can be even weaker. The optimal feeding regime involves the introduction of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers in early spring at the rate of 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m2, and after flowering, in early June, 40 g of ammonium sulfate is applied to 1 m2 of a plot with rhododendrons and 20 g superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In July, only 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are applied per 1 m².
Rhododendron pests and diseases
Of the pests, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, bugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, as well as snails and slugs, bother rhododendrons most of all.
Gastropods are collected by hand, and as a preventive measure, rhododendron is treated with an eight percent solution of the fungicide TMTD, or Thiram.
Spider mites, rhododendron bugs, as well as weevils are destroyed by treatment with diazinon, and in case of damage to the rhododendron by a weevil, the top layer of the soil will also have to be treated with an insecticide.
The rest of the insects are exterminated by karbofos in accordance with the instructions for the preparation.
Of the diseases, rhododendrons are most often pursued by fungal diseases - leaf spots, cancer, chlorosis, rust. They usually arise as a result of poor aeration of the roots. Spots and rust are destroyed by drugs copper sulfate, in particular Bordeaux liquid.
Chlorosis, from which the rhododendron turns yellow, requires the addition of iron chelate to the water for irrigation. As for cancer, it is necessary to remove the diseased shoots or cut them to healthy tissue, in addition, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments of rhododendron with Bordeaux liquid in early spring and late autumn.
Reproduction of rhododendron
Rhododendrons reproduce generatively (by seeds) and vegetatively - by dividing the bush, layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way is to propagate rhododendrons by layering, and we will tell you about this method, as well as how to properly sow seeds and carry out cuttings.
Rhododendron seeds are sown in bowls with well-moistened heather or peat soil mixed with sand at a rate of 3: 1, sprinkle the seeds with washed sand on top, cover the bowls with glass and place them in a bright place for germination. Crop care consists in moistening the substrate as needed, daily airing and removing condensation from the glass. Seedlings usually appear in a month, and when a pair of leaves appear at the seedlings, they are planted more freely according to a 2x3 cm scheme, buried in the ground along the cotyledons, so that the root system of the seedlings is formed.
The first year the seedlings are kept in a cool greenhouse, and the next year they are planted in open ground on training beds with garden soil mixed with sand and peat. Seedlings grow very slowly and bloom only for 6-8 years.
Propagating rhododendron by cuttings is not much easier. For this, semi-lignified shoots are suitable, from which cuttings 5-8 cm long are cut. The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, and the lower sections are kept in a solution of a root growth stimulator, for example, in heteroauxin, for 12-16 hours. Then the cuttings are placed in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1 and covered with a transparent dome. Cuttings take root long and hard: deciduous species are a month and a half, and evergreens - 3-4.5 months.
Cuttings are grown in boxes with a mixture of peat and pine needles in a ratio of 2: 1, for the winter they are taken out into a cool, bright room, where the temperature is kept within 8-12 ºC, and in the spring they are added in the garden right in the boxes and grown for another year or two until transplants to a permanent place.
Digging in layers is the easiest and most natural way to reproduce rhododendron. In the spring, a young, flexible shoot from those growing at the very bottom of the bush is bent down and laid in a previously made groove at least 15 cm deep, with the middle part of the shoot pinned into the groove, and garden soil mixed with peat is poured onto it on top. The top of the shoot remains on the surface and is tied to a peg stuck vertically.
Throughout the season, the cuttings are moistened along with the bush, and in the fall or next spring, the rooted cuttings are separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a permanent place. It is best to propagate deciduous rhododendron in this way.
Rhododendron after flowering
Rhododendron in autumn
If the autumn turns out to be dry, the rhododendron must be watered abundantly - 10-12 liters for each bush. If it's autumn, as usual, with rains, then you won't have to water the rhododendrons. By November, each bush is insulated in the root zone, laying a layer of peat along the near-trunk circle.
Rhododendron in winter
If you live in the middle lane, with the first frosts, the rhododendron bushes need to be covered with burlap, after having tucked spruce and pine branches between the branches and slightly pulling the bush with twine. The bags are removed on a cloudy day in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. In warmer regions, rhododendrons hibernate without shelter.
Types and varieties of rhododendrons
You can endlessly talk about the types of rhododendron, since there are a lot of them. We will give a description of those that are grown in culture, as well as introduce you to the most popular garden varieties rhododendrons.
Rhododendron dahurian (Rhododendron dahuricum)
It grows naturally in the Primorsky Territory, Northeastern China, Korea, Eastern Siberia and Northern Mongolia, preferring coniferous forests and rocks. It is an evergreen, medium-sized, strongly branched shrub with a height of two to four meters with gray bark and branches directed upwards. Its shoots are thin, reddish-brown, pubescent closer to the ends with a short nap. Small leathery leaves up to three centimeters long are smooth on the upper side of the plate, scaly below - light green in youth, darker in maturity, and in autumn either brown or red-green. With the onset of winter, not all leaves fall off; many of them stay on the branches all winter. Abundant flowering of Daurian rhododendron, lasting about three weeks, occurs before the leaves bloom in funnel-shaped large flowers of a purple-pink hue, reaching 4 cm in diameter. Sometimes in the fall, the Daurian rhododendron blooms again.
This species is very winter-hardy, easily propagates by green cuttings. Has two types:
- evergreen form with dark green leaves and purple-purple flowers;
- early garden hybrid, undersized, with abundant, bright, early blooming bluish-red flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. This form is not as hardy as the main species.
Rhododendron Adams (Rhododendron adamsii)
Evergreen rhododendron growing on Far East and on the northeastern foothills of Tibet and choosing mountain forests and rocky slopes for habitation. It is a branched shrub up to half a meter high with shoots covered with glandular pile. Dense matte green leaves are oblong-elliptical, up to 2 cm in length and up to 2 cm in width, glabrous from above, red from below due to scales. Flowers up to one and a half cm in diameter different shades pink in color collected in corymbose inflorescences of 7-15 pieces. This rhododendron is included in the Red Book of Buryatia.
Japanese Rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum)
As the name implies, it comes from Japan, from the sunny mountains of the island of Honshu. This species is one of the finest deciduous rhododendrons, a branchy shrub up to two meters tall with shoots naked or covered with silvery bristles. The leaf of the Japanese rhododendron is green, oblong-lanceolate, with soft pubescence on both sides of the leaf blade. In autumn, the leaves turn orange-red. Fragrant bell-shaped flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, collected in 6-12 pieces in racemose inflorescences, colored orange and scarlet-red. In the middle lane, there is no species equal in beauty to the Japanese rhododendron. In addition, the species is winter-hardy, reproduces well by cuttings and seeds.
Caucasian rhododendron (Rhododendron caucasicum)
grows wild in the Caucasus, as its name suggests. This is a short evergreen shrub with creeping branches. The leaves of the Caucasian rhododendron are leathery, oval, oblong, dark green, glabrous on the upper side of the plate and tomentose on the lower side, located on long thick petioles. Fragrant funnel-bell-shaped yellowish flowers with green spots inside the pharynx are collected in 8-12 pieces in racemose inflorescences located on hairy peduncles.
The view has several decorative forms:
- pink-white, which blooms before the main species;
- shiny with dark pink flowers;
- golden yellow with yellow flowers decorated with greenish specks;
- straw yellow with yellow flowers with reddish spots.
In addition to the species described, Albrecht's rhododendrons, Atlantic, Vaseya, holo-flowered, tree-like, yellow, coarse-haired, western, golden, Indian, Kamchatka, Canadian, Caroline, Carpathian, carpal, sticky, short-fruited, blushing, largest, large-leaved, Lapland , Ledebura, small-leaved, marigold, sea buckthorn, spiky, dense, Pontic, attractive, Pukhan, rusty, equal height, pink, Sikhotin, slate, dull, rooting, Yakushiman and many others.
Hybrid rhododendron
This is the name for the set of cultivars and hybrids of rhododendrons grown in culture. In other words, the hybrid rhododendron is a garden rhododendron. The most popular varieties of hybrid rhododendron are:
- german cultivar Alfred, bred by crossing the Everestina variety with the Katevbinsky rhododendron and is an evergreen shrub up to 120 cm high with a crown diameter of about one and a half meters. Leaves are oblong-elliptical, dark green and shiny. Bright purple flowers with a yellow-green spot up to 6 cm in diameter are collected in dense inflorescences of 15-20 pieces;
- blue Peter grade obtained by crossing the Pontic rhododendron. The height of the bush is more than one and a half meters. The crown is spreading, up to two meters in diameter. Flowers up to 6 cm in diameter are lavender-blue with corrugated edges and a dark purple spot on the upper petal;
- Jacksoni - An English hybrid between the Nobleanum variety and the Caucasian rhododendron. The bush is up to two meters high, the crown diameter is about three meters. There is a low-growing form up to 80 cm high. The leaves are oblong, leathery, dull green above and brown below. Flowers collected in inflorescences of 8-12 pieces during blooming have a pink tint, and later become white with a yellow spot on one petal;
- Rose Marie - a variety of Czech selection, bred by crossing the Pink Pearl variety and the magnificent rhododendron. The height of the bush is 120 cm, the crown girth is one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, leathery, the upper side of the leaf plate is a light green shade with a waxy coating, the lower leaves are blue-green, glossy. The flowers are pale pink at the edges, and in the middle they are densely pink with a purple tint, collected in compact spherical inflorescences of 6-14 pieces;
- Nova Zembla - Dutch hybrid between Persone Gloriosum and Katevbinsky rhododendron. Bush up to 3 m high and loose crown up to 3.5 m in girth. Shoots grow almost vertically, the leaves are large, leathery, shiny. Large flowers up to 6 cm in diameter, red with a black spot, collected in 10-12 pieces in dense inflorescences;
- Cunningham - Scottish cultivar, the most popular variety of the Caucasian rhododendron, reaching a height of two meters with a crown diameter of one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong, leathery, dark green, up to 6 cm long and up to 3 cm wide. White flowers with yellow-brown specks are collected in 10 pieces in dense inflorescences.
Rhododendron properties
In addition to the indisputable decorative advantages, rhododendron has medicinal properties that are widely used in folk and traditional medicine. Species such as Rhododendron Daurian, Golden, Adams, Caucasian, contain andromedotoxin, ericoline, arbutin and rhododendrin. The leaves of rhododendron also contain ascorbic acid, the highest concentration of which in the plant is observed in the summer months. Due to the content of substances useful for the human body, rhododendron has antipyretic, analgesic, bactericidal, sedative and diaphoretic effects. It removes excess fluid from the body, relieving shortness of breath, edema, rapid heartbeat, lowers arterial and venous pressure and enhances cardiac activity.
However, rhododendron is far from harmless. During pregnancy and breastfeeding, as well as patients with tissue necrosis and suffering from serious kidney disease, you should refrain from taking drugs based on rhododendron. And in any case, before taking such medications, it would be most correct to first consult with doctors.
Rhododendron in the Moscow region - features
Sometimes amateur flower growers, fascinated by a beautiful advertising picture, are eager to grow an outlandish bush called a rhododendron in their garden. But how often, despite the money spent, time and effort, they are disappointed - the bush on the site looks completely different from the advertising brochure, moreover, it withers every day and, in the end, dies. Is it possible to avoid such a sad ending and grow a heat-loving rhododendron plant in Moscow, for example? Is it possible to grow rhododendron in the Moscow region, in the Leningrad region and other areas of the middle lane? As they say, with the right approach, nothing is impossible.
Planting a rhododendron in the Moscow region
First, you need to know exactly which of the rhododendron species can survive the winter near Moscow, since non-cold-resistant species and varieties die from frost even under cover. It is best to plant, of course, deciduous species of rhododendrons: Japanese, yellow, Schlippenbach, Vaseya, Canadian, Kamchatka, Pukhan. Of the semi-evergreen species, the Ledebour rhododendron is suitable, and of the evergreens, the Katevbinsky rhododendron can be grown (as well as its hybrids Alfred, Abraham Lincoln, Nova Zembla, Cunningham White), the short-fruited, golden rhododendrons, the largest and the rhododendron of Smirykirin Smiryel, Dyphtwycril and his hybrids. Well-established not so long ago in Finland winter hardy varieties Elvira, The Hague, Mikkeli. Hybrids of the Northern Light group Rosie Lights, Pink Lights, Spicy Lights and others winter well in the middle lane.
If you have purchased a winter-hardy rhododendron, then you need to be able to plant it correctly. First, you need to do this in the spring, choosing a semi-shady place no closer than a meter from any other plants. Secondly, buy a special soil for rhododendron or make your own mixture of garden soil, pine needles and peat. You need to add a complex mineral fertilizer... Thirdly, the pit for a rhododendron seedling should be twice the size of the container with the root system of the seedling, and if the soil in the area is clay, be sure to pour a drainage layer of broken brick 15 cm thick on the bottom of the pit. Fourthly, do not deepen the root during planting the neck - let it remain at the same level as in the container. Be sure to water the seedling after planting.
Rhododendron care in the Moscow region
Planting and caring for rhododendron in the Moscow region is not much different from growing this plant in regions with warmer winters, but there are still differences. We offer you a list of requirements, having fulfilled which, you can well count on success, despite the cool climate of your area:
- rhododendrons grow in acidic humus soils. In the area where the roots take nutrients, there should be no dolomite, ash, lime and other substances that alkalize the soil;
- mulching of the rhododendron near-trunk circles is necessary, especially since it is impossible to loosen and dig up the soil around the bushes due to the horizontal arrangement of the rhododendron root system;
- in the spring, organize the protection of the rhododendron from the sun's rays with a net, gauze or cloth;
- the most important factor for success is deep and balanced watering of the rhododendron: it should receive just as much moisture as it needs, no more, no less. In a dry hot summer, watering is carried out twice a week.
Sometimes at the beginning of autumn, due to warm rainy weather, rhododendrons begin to grow, but young shoots do not have time to ripen and die in winter. To avoid unwanted late growth of shoots, spray the bush in dry weather with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate or monophosphate from a fine spray - this measure will stop growth, stimulate lignification of shoots and the laying of flower buds for the next year. However, after spraying, you should stop watering the rhododendron, even if dry weather is established.
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This article will consider a very beautiful and useful plant Rhododendron pink (from Greek - rose tree). Let's highlight the main points and touch on the important details, without which the cultivation of this deciduous is impossible.
Rhododendron pink (or prinophyllum) - description
- Belongs to the Heather family. Originally from Canada. The variety is deciduous.
- In natural form on the territory of Russia it reaches from 1.3 m to 2 m (very rarely), and at home (Canada up to 3 m). Leaves are ellipsoid, 3-7 cm long, covered with sparse hairs.
- The color is about 4-9 flowers. Flowering begins in late April - mid-May, lasting 2 weeks. The color blooms with the first leaves. It may bloom twice a year, the second - in the second half of August.
- Landing should be done on rocky soil, pink rhododendron likes to "live" in groups.
- It is quite frost-hardy, but at high frosts (below -30˚С) part of the tips of young shoots freezes.
- The main reproduction occurs by seeds from the bush itself. But artificial reproduction is possible by bending a separate branch to the ground, and in the place of the planned rooting, a small incision is made on the branch. This should be done immediately after disclosing the color on the bush. After rooting, the branch should be separated from the mother bush (cut off).
- With proper agricultural technology, an approach with lighting and fertilization of the soil, the bush has gorgeous (with a hat) flowers that literally cover the entire bush. Subject to simple rules, it blooms twice a season.
When growing rhododendron from seeds at home, we adhere to the following rules:
- we choose dishes such that they are larger in width and length than in height - this is due to the fact that the root system extends more in width (over the surface) than in depth,
- soil fertilized in advance with the necessary fertilizers,
- in one layer on the ground (in a pot) we spread cheesecloth, lightly press it to the soil and lay the seeds on it in the order we need,
- this method will give a higher percentage of seed germination than the usual method, due to good approach air and light,
- constantly spray the seed, preventing it, the earth and gauze from drying out (5-7 times a day and abundantly at night),
- place the dishes with seeds on the windowsill from the sunny side,
- planted in the ground according to the rules described below.
First you need to decide on the soil for planting pink rhododendron:
- we choose the soil according to his liking - slightly acidic and not rich in lime,
- it is possible to prepare the land in the fall - we fertilize in the same way as usual - manure, sand, sawdust (instead of sawdust, you can dig up the ground with dry weeds separated from the roots in autumn),
- if we apply fertilizers immediately before planting the rhododendron as seedlings, then sand and manure into the hole, and sprinkle with sawdust on top after the planting itself,
- if we plant with seeds (if the climate permits), then we do not add sawdust until the sprouts are 10-15 cm high.
After preparing the soil for planting or sowing, you should pay attention to a number of very important details:
- the root system of rhododendron is located for the most part in the upper layers of the soil, and almost does not go into depth - therefore, when planting a bush already grown at home, it is necessary to prepare a hole in advance in width and depth for planting in accordance with the volume and future location of the roots in the soil ,
- you can plant it already at the beginning of May, but when the frost is no longer for sure,
- choose a place without stagnation of water in the ground during rains,
- half-shade lighting should be chosen - it is desirable that the bush remains in the shade at noon, although the rhododendron loves light, burns may remain on the leaves with frequent direct contact with the sun's rays.
Selecting "neighbors":
- bad: oak, maple, willow, birch,
- good: spreading apple, larch, pine, pear, spruce.
Consider the main points of the necessary care for pink rhododendron:
- on time (in early spring - before the buds appear or fill up) - we open the bushes so that they begin to "breathe" and do not break off the buds, choosing not sunny weather, so that the sun does not harm the not yet awakened rhododendron,
- partial, no more than 25% (!) pruning of the bush, both old branches and "false" (unnecessary) for the correct formation of the bush,
- spring irrigation, both by nature and by humans, must meet the needs of the bush,
- weeding from weeds, which take moisture from the upper layers of the soil and prevent the rhododendron from feeding,
- weeds (their upper part - without roots) can be useful in dry weather, as a natural cover, from evaporation and depletion of the soil from moisture - we cover the ground under the bushes with them,
- loosening the soil,
- treatment of a bush from pests and diseases,
- if necessary, it is possible to lower several branches with cuts to the ground, as described above, for propagation,
- top dressing with fertilizers, nitrogen and mineral groups.
- watering - control over humidity on / in the ground (in dry weather, try to water the bush with a stream, as if irrigating - spraying it),
- weeding (working with weeds as described above to retain moisture in the soil), loosening,
- perennial treatment with pests and diseases - if necessary,
- in the first half of summer, if necessary, fertilize with liquid fertilizers; in the second half, you should not experiment so that the bush does not begin to release young shoots for the winter.
- cutting off the old color in late autumn - for more abundant flowering next year,
- exclude all fertilizing, with the exception of manure (first we cover the ground with it) and sawdust (a small layer of sawdust can be poured on top of the manure) - in the spring, when you open the bush, the manure applied in the fall, partially decomposed, will begin to warm up the soil more strongly,
- autumn is often dry, at this time it is especially important that the rhododendron does not dry out, therefore irrigation is an integral part of care,
- covering the bush for the winter - we lightly tie the branches into a small broom, it is possible to wrap it up in something warm and cover it with something like a bag,
- if mice may appear on the site, we do this - 1.5 l plastic bottle cut off the neck and bottom, then cut along one edge from top to bottom, so that it fits on the side of the trunk.
In general, pink elegant rhododendron tolerates winter well in temperate climates. With a decrease in temperatures (severe winters) - you should treat the wintering of this plant with caution - cover the tops and the ground from frostbite before the onset of positive temperatures.
Rhododendron pink elegant, its pests, diseases
- The rhododendra bug is the most common pest on the elegant rhododendron, the length of this beetle is about 3.6 mm, it leaves discolored small spots on the leaves. From the inner side of the leaf for winter to spring, lays brownish eggs. Control measures and methods: spraying with diazonin solution.
- The mealybug is a flat pest 2-4 mm long, lives on the veins of leaves and clogs up on cracks in the bark and sucks out juices from there. Changes 2-5 generations per season. Measures and methods of control: spraying with karbofos solution 3-4 times a year.
- The furrowed weevil, or the grooved beetle, is a black beetle (a young individual is brownish-yellow). They eat the edges of leaves, buds, buds and bark. They appear in May-June, overwinter in the soil under the plant; in the spring, larvae appear, similar to those of the May beetle.
- Measures and methods of control: water with a solution of 0.2-0.3% karbofos emulsion. Night spraying with the same solution (the period of activity of adults). Spraying with diazonin and furadan also helps,
- Spider mite - the length of the insect is up to 0.5 mm, stretches the cobweb from the back of the leaf to all sides, feeds on the juice of the leaves, which then turn brown and fall off. Control measures and methods: spraying with diazonin, agrovertin,
- Asiatic garden beetle - eats leaves, eats holes of irregular shape, leaving only veins, larvae live in the ground at the roots, eat both the roots and the stem. Control measures and methods: spraying with diazonin.
- Plowed slug - most often affects the leaves of young plants, is dangerous by the speed of eating, and in a short time it is able to destroy a young plant. Measures and methods of control: watering with 0.8% TMTD solution, destruction by manually collecting adults from the plant.
- Black thrips is a greenhouse pest, but it began to be found in the open air, the length of an individual is 1-1.5 mm black. It feeds on leaves, leaves characteristic traces - holes form on the upper side of the leaf gray, and on the bottom black, the leaves take on a silvery color, die off and fall off. Thrips causes ugly flowers and stunted growth and shoots of the plant. Measures and methods of control: spraying with a solution of 0.2-0.3% nicotine or 0.2% karbofos emulsion.
- The narrow-winged miner-moth, a caterpillar, breaks through passages in the leaf, feeding on it, then, growing up, folds the leaf for pupation. Control measures and methods: spraying or fumigating with sulfur.
- Rhododendra fly - lives on the underside of the leaf, and light spots the size of a pinhead appear on the upper side. Control measures and methods: spraying with nicotine sulfate.
- Greenhouse and legume aphids - affects young shoots, leaves, buds, feeds on plant sap and leads to their death. Measures and methods of control: spraying with 0.3% karbofos solution or 0.1% actellik or ambush solution.
- Mixed chlorosis - at the edges and tips of the leaves appear yellow spots - Lack of nitrogen and potassium, can also cause stagnation of water at the roots.
- A lack of nutrients can cause red spots along the veins, leaves curling into a tube, and branches dry out. With nitrogen deficiency, the leaves of the pink elegant rhododendron become smaller, the inflorescences are not so rich.
- Necrosis - as the cause of the death of the main vein of the leaf, in which the upper side of the leaf turns brown. The reason was most likely a sharp drop in air or soil temperature.
Rhododendron can heal when other methods and techniques are less effective.
In addition to decorative value, rhododendron also has medicinal properties... It was also used by the ancient folk healers of Japan, Mongolia, and China.
In modern times, it has many different uses in traditional medicine:
- female oncological diseases - erosion, inflammation and reducing their malignant properties to a minimum,
- for colds - gargling prevents inflammation of the larynx and the development of bacteria and fungi in the cavity,
- it is prescribed for mercury poisoning,
- with epilepsy,
- rheumatism.
And there are many other uses, the main thing to remember is that rhododendron contains POISON - a poisonous glycoside - ANDROMEDOTOXIN, therefore, for all its benefits, do not self-medicate, better consult an intelligent and competent doctor!
Be careful also when grazing your livestock, andromedotoxin can kill your livestock.
Also, do not use honey collected in the vicinity of this plant - the toxin may also be contained in pollen. Such a product can cause human poisoning.
Rhododendron pink, photo
Rhododendron pink amoena, elegant - very famous all over the world and, of course, it is gorgeous in its way.
Leonardslee gardens, located in England - access to visitors opens during the flowering period of this gorgeous plant:
The Cynthia rhododendron, which is over 100 years old, is located in Ladysmith, Vancouver Island:
Of course, this plant will bring a lot of beauty and benefit to your life to your plot, garden or vegetable garden. Take care of him and he will undoubtedly thank you!
Rhododendron pink - video about the rules for planting
