Thermal insulation of sand-lime bricks outside. Silicate brick for building a private house. Installation scheme for siding

Energy saving programs are gaining popularity, and many are thinking about the best option for their home. How to insulate sand-lime brick? Which insulation options are better: outside or inside? What features of a brick should be considered when choosing a heater?

Insulation for a house made of silicate bricks must be chosen based on the type of building and type of masonry.

Wall insulation should begin with an examination of their features, the type of masonry that was used during construction. So that the insulation of the house meets everyone modern requirements, you need to consider the following parameters:

1. Brick shape. This indicator directly affects the thermal conductivity, on which the required level of insulation will depend.
2. Brick type. For example, for silicate brick m-150, a minimum insulating layer is sufficient.
3. Masonry type. The thickness of the wall and its need for insulation will depend on this indicator.

Expert advice! If the house has solid masonry, then it needs to be insulated inside and outside, if hollow masonry is used, then the material is laid only inside the walls.

What materials for insulation are available on the construction market

Today, the building supermarket chain offers a wide selection of materials for insulating walls made of silicate bricks. All of them have their own characteristics that you need to know and take into account so that the insulation of the house is of high quality and reliable.

1. Mineral wool.

Despite the fact that this material has been used for a long time, it has not lost its popularity. Buyers give preference for it:

• optimal price;
• ease of installation;
• light weight;
• environmental safety;
• long period of operation;
• complete absence of a breeding environment for rodents, fungi and mold.

Among the disadvantages of the material, the following indicators are distinguished:

• fast absorption of moisture;
• easily ignites;
• does not retain its shape during deformation processes.

1. Styrofoam.

Many experts propose to insulate silicate bricks with foam. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool. But among the advantages are the following:

• the material is resistant to moisture;
• easy to assemble, no special tools required;
• a light weight;
• environmental Safety.

Polyfoam has special water-repellent properties.

If it was decided to insulate a house made of silicate brick with foam, then you need to know that it easily ignites and releases toxic substances during combustion. Many cases have been noted when the ignition and spread of fire occurs instantly, and the owners manage to save only their lives.

Expert advice! Today the construction market offers the new kind foam, which has improved characteristics and greater protection against fire.

1. Expanded clay.

This material can be used to insulate a house during the construction phase. It is added to cement mortar, which will be used when pouring the floor, plastering the walls. Expanded clay has many advantages that make it in demand in the construction market:

• minimum weight;
• environmental Safety;
• mice do not gnaw it, fungus and mold do not develop in it;
• has high rates of heat and sound insulation;
• does not react with moisture, so it is ideal for bathroom, kitchen, toilet.

Among the main disadvantages is the high degree of dust emission.

1. Polyurethane foam.

It is increasingly advised to insulate a house made of silicate bricks with polyurethane foam, since this material has the highest rates of thermal insulation and strength. The material itself can be applied in the form of slabs or sprayed on the walls. Polyurethane foam assumes additional finishing, preferably with fire-resistant mixtures.

The main disadvantage is the high cost.

1. Warm plaster.

This material provides the premises with the highest thermal insulation values. With warm plaster, you can easily cover silicate bricks. Among the main advantages are the following:

• walls have high rates of heat, noise and sound insulation;
• the material is not subject to combustion;
• does not absorb moisture.

The main disadvantage that prevents the material from gaining popularity is the cost and methods of application to the walls. Warm plaster is applied using special automated equipment. Only a professional team has such systems, which will take a lot of money for their work.

In addition, the maximum layer of plaster is up to 5 centimeters. A large mass of a layer that is applied to a wall requires the construction of a massive foundation or additional reinforcement of an existing one.

1. Fiberglass.

This material has excellent characteristics and is recommended by many experts. The main thing that everyone needs to remember is that this material should only be mounted by professionals. It is toxic, therefore, if improperly installed, it can harm the health of not only the employee, but also everyone who will live in such a house.

1. Ecowool.

It is used only for internal insulation. The material has optimal thermal conductivity, while quickly absorbing moisture.

Insulation of the house outside

How to insulate a house made of silicate bricks must be decided in each case individually.

If the house has long been built and has been functioning, then the walls will be insulated outside. This type will help protect the structure of the house from precipitation, sudden temperature changes, while the dew point will move closer to the insulation. Such insulation of the house makes it possible to increase the life of the entire building.

Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane, expanded polystyrene are suitable for external insulation. Silicate brickcovered with insulation must be additionally plastered or covered with facade panels.

Before insulating the house from the outside, you need to carry out horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. For these purposes, you can use waterproofing or roofing material. Unfortunately, the latter material does not have a long service life. The installed waterproofing layer should not be on the walls of the first floor.

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How to insulate a house from the inside

For silicate bricks, wall insulation from the inside is considered only in the most urgent cases. In addition to the fact that the useful area will be taken away from the room, when the walls are insulated from the inside, the dew point changes, it shifts inward. This causes condensation to form on the walls, which can only be removed after installing a productive ventilation system.

If it was decided to insulate the house from the inside, then it is necessary to use the material not only for the walls, but also on the ceiling, floor, slopes. If you do not perform such work, then places will appear in the house where freezing will appear.

When choosing a material for insulating silicate bricks from the inside, you must first of all pay attention to the indicators of environmental safety. When heated, all components will be released into the room, which can harm human health.

When insulating sand-lime brick from the inside, you do not need to use a vapor barrier.

It is enough to cover the material with plaster. If there is a need for additional fixing of the insulation, then a reinforcing mesh can be used.

When choosing a material for insulation, you should pay attention to the indicators fire safety... All walls inside the house are equipped with a large number of wires, various devices that can catch fire.

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Warming a house made of silicate bricks is a necessary and important process that will help save the family's budget for heating, create coziness, comfort, and the optimal temperature throughout the house. Only conscious choice material will provide the desired result for each specific home.

Private house, walls 38cm., White brick facade, metal-plastic windows... The house is cold, in severe frost the walls and ceiling in the corners are wet and covered with fungus. It is necessary to insulate the building from the outside with mineral wool or foam. To ensure the standards, it is necessary that the insulation be at least 10 cm for polystyrene and 12 (with a slight stretch, due to the fact that for small volumes it may be difficult to select plates of the required thickness, it will be possible to take 10 cm) for mineral wool.
If you will be insulating with mineral wool, pay special attention to glue, plaster and paint - they must let steam through.
Around windows and doors, in any case, there must be mineral wool insulation (a fire safety requirement).
The density for mineral wool should be 145-150 kg / cubic meter, for foam 25 kg / cubic meter
In the attic, perhaps the easiest way is to put logs and fill the space with mineral wool or, as an option, "ecowool" (cellulose insulation). Or blow out with polyurethane foam (the last two are flammable). There should be a layer of vapor barrier under the insulation. If the attic is heated, then you need to insulate it from the side of the roof.
Regarding flammability: it is necessary Please note that polystyrene and polyurethane foam burn and at the same time emit harmful substances.
Particular attention should be paid to the adhesions and corners, so that everything fits well there, there are no gaps and gaps.

Warming your home is always the most responsible event. Indeed, in this case, it is necessary to correctly assess Not only the issue of a long-term period - energy conservation (energy savings), but also operational issues (durability, maintainability, fire resistance, environmental friendliness, vapor permeability, efficiency, etc.).
For certain reasons, we will not recommend you to insulate with foam - because this is NOT the most the best choice for a private house (weak vapor permeability, flammability, mice settle).
If you plan to make a ventilated facade, then basalt or mineral wool mats with a thickness of at least 100 mm are best suited for insulation, using protective films (vapor barrier and wind barrier).
If you want to get a durable, vapor-permeable, monolithic insulation, then you should pay attention to warm plasters. This is a new direction in insulation - it has been used on the Ukrainian market since 2007 and has proven itself quite well. Allows you to simultaneously level, and insulate, and dry already soaked walls.
Compliant with the practice of warming Vitaly Zagorny
You can warm yourself in many ways, the choice of which depends on the beliefs about environmental friendliness, price and other factors. The best in your case is the choice of a variety of wool: basalt, mineral and others, but these wool should be pressed slabs, which are made specifically for external use. Why cotton wool? This is because the walls can breathe, it is easier to do this with this material, the thickness of the insulation (cotton wool) in this case should be at least 15-20 cm! You can also insulate yourself with foam, but it should be remembered that the softer the foam, the worse it is as a heat insulator and less durable, while its thickness for insulation: soft - 15 cm, hard - 10 cm, extruder (Penoplex, Sterodur) - 5 cm.
It is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the foundation to the depth of freezing (at least 50 cm), if this is impossible for some reason, then you need to make a warm paving, that is, around the house 1 meter wide you need Prokopy earth to a depth of 15-25 cm, pour a layer of sand 5 cm and carefully compact, add a layer of dry sand-cement mixture, as when laying paving stones, put a film 2.2-2.5 m wide (cut the sleeve), insert it so that the ends remain longer, then wrap one end to the wall with a tolerance of 15-20 cm, lay foam plates (solid) 1 m wide, then wrap the film so that the plate is protected from moisture and contact with the ground (for durability) pour over the film concrete screed with a reinforcing mesh (any thickness for the screed) or add fiber to the concrete, it is better to both components together. In this case, your floor will never be cold, even in winter, And it will not drop below +8 heat.
It is better to insulate the ceiling (attic) with rolled mineral wool more than 10 cm thick.
The next step is a good vetilation device, this is almost the most the main problem fungus and wet corners. Buy hoods in the kitchen and in every room, also install any absorbent device, from the usual Cerasit-Box, to a power tool, the lower the humidity, the warmer it will be in the house. Also install the correct heating.

In private construction, brick is still very popular for the construction of walls. Houses built of bricks can be found almost everywhere. But, despite its excellent performance, such a house requires insulation. Warming issue brick house it is especially acute today, when the cost of energy carriers is quite high and it is necessary to save every kilowatt of energy. The way out in this situation is to create reliable thermal insulation of the house, which can reduce heat loss to a minimum. All work on arranging thermal insulation can be done on your own, especially since there is nothing difficult in how to insulate a brick house.

The specifics of the insulation of a brick house

When planning to insulate a brick house, it must be remembered that insulating a house is a whole complex of works aimed at reducing heat loss through the roof, walls, floor and foundation. And in order to answer the question of how to properly insulate a brick house, you will first have to find out from which brick and what kind of masonry the house was built, consider the types of insulation for a brick house and decide on the materials for its insulation.

Features of brick walls

Unlike concrete or wooden walls, brick walls have a row characteristic features... Firstly, the walls can be solid or hollow bricks. The thermal conductivity of a brick wall depends on this, the indicator of which is in the middle between a tree 0.2 W / (m K) and concrete 1.5 W / (m K) and is 0.4 W / (m K). Secondly, the masonry can be solid and with an air pocket (well masonry). Depending on what type of brick is used and what kind of masonry is made, the thickness of the walls changes, and with this the operational characteristics and the required thickness of the insulating layer.

Important! Above are the average values \u200b\u200bof thermal conductivity. Depending on the type of wood and the materials used for the production of bricks and concrete, thermal conductivity indicators may fluctuate in one direction or another. So concrete with the addition of expanded clay has a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W / (m K), solid silicate brick 0.7 W / (m K), and pine 0.09 W / (m K). Therefore, before proceeding with the insulation of the walls of the house, it is important to know what they are made of and how thick they are.

Regarding the method of laying, it should be noted that with continuous laying, the insulation is placed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall from one or two sides. In this case, the thickness of the layer directly depends on the thickness of the wall: the thicker the wall, the less layer will be required. In the case of well masonry, the insulation is placed inside the wall, between the bricks. This approach is also called in-wall insulation. It can provide additional thermal insulation due to an air gap between the outer and inner walls, and when using thermal insulation material, it can reduce heat loss in half.

Insulation types

In total, there are three types of insulation: external, internal, in-wall. External insulation is the most popular and involves the placement of insulation outside the building. This approach will provide additional protection for the walls from various kinds of natural phenomena. Unfortunately, external insulation of a brick house has its drawbacks - this is the seasonality of work and the rather high cost of materials. Internal insulation of a house, in addition to insulation of walls, provides for insulation of interfloor ceilings, floor, attic and roof. Execute internal insulation can be done almost at any time of the year. The third type is in-wall insulation, it can be performed only at the stage of wall construction. Therefore, those who have purchased an already built house will not be able to perform this type of insulation.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

It is necessary to choose materials for insulating a brick house with special care, paying attention to their characteristics. There are several reasons for this. First, some thermal insulation materials can only be used for interior decorationsome are for outdoor use only. Secondly, the total weight and thickness of the insulation layer will depend on the density of the material and its coefficient of thermal conductivity. Thirdly, its durability and ability to maintain its performance depend on the resistance of the material to various kinds of negative influences. Fourth, the more natural the material, the better. Below are the main characteristics with their brief descriptionthat you should pay special attention to.

• Coefficient of thermal conductivity... The lower this indicator, the less the thickness of the thermal insulation layer will be.
• Water absorption coefficient... As in the case of thermal conductivity, the lower this indicator, the better. The water absorption of a material indicates its resistance to moisture absorption.
• Density... In fact, this indicator reflects the mass of thermal insulation. The higher it is, the heavier the material.
• Flammability class. There are four flammability classes in total. Materials of class G1 stop burning without a fire source, so their use is more preferable in construction.
• Durability of the material... With this indicator, everything is simple. It indicates how long this material will last without losing its performance.
• Steam flow capacity... The ability of the material to "breathe", passing humid air through itself, will be very useful for the internal insulation of premises, which will only increase comfortable accommodation in home.
• Sound insulation ability... Some heat-insulating materials also have excellent sound-insulating properties, which can significantly save on special sound-insulating materials.
• Sustainability... This indicator indicates only the naturalness of the materials and will be useful for those who seek to make their home as safe as possible for living in it.
• Complexity of installation... This indicator only affects the speed and ease of installation, which will be especially useful for beginners in the construction business.

In modern construction, do-it-yourself insulation of a brick house is carried out with various materials. Below are the usual man-made materials and the increasingly popular natural materials:

• Mineral wool... Perhaps the most commonly used thermal insulation. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.041-0.044 W / (m.K) and density from 20 kg / m3 to 200 kg / m3. Among the shortcomings, it should be noted high moisture absorption. More suitable for internal insulation.
• Expanded polystyrene (foam)... The second most popular material for insulation. Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 - 0.037 W / (m.K), density 11 to 35 kg / m3. This material practically does not absorb moisture, but at the same time its vapor transmission capacity is practically zero. In addition, it is fragile, flammable and emits toxic substances when burned. Can be used both inside and outside the building.
• Extruded polystyrene foam... Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.028 - 0.032 W / (m.K), density from 25 to 38 kg / m3. Unlike conventional Styrofoam, Extruded Styrofoam is more durable, but otherwise almost identical. Suitable for external and internal work.
• Expanded clay... The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.10 to 0.18 W / (m.K), the density is 200 - 800 kg / m3. Quite a narrow range of applications. It is mainly added to concrete for foundations or for the construction of a monolithic frame of a house. It can also be used for wall insulation.
• "Warm" plaster... The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.065 W / (m.K), the density is 200 - 340 kg / m3. The advantages of this material are quite a few - they are sound insulation, vapor permeability, low water permeability, non-flammability, etc. But there are two significant drawbacks. The first - the maximum layer of such plaster should not exceed 50 mm, the second - a large weight, which entails the need for a reinforced foundation. But in general, it is an excellent insulation for both external and internal work.
• Cork heaters... The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.045 - 0.06 W / (m.K), the density is 240 - 250 kg / m3. This natural material is perfect for internal insulation due to its performance. The only serious drawback is the high degree of flammability. Best used for internal insulation.
• Ecowool or cellulose wool... The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.032 - 0.038 W / (m.K), the density is 30 - 75 kg / m3. The ecowool obtained as a result of cellulose processing perfectly absorbs moisture and does not tolerate mechanical stress. Used only for internal insulation. Usually it is used to insulate attics.

When starting to insulate an already built brick house, first of all it is necessary to do small project, indicating in it all areas requiring insulation with the materials used and their quantity. It should be remembered that for internal and external work, various materials... If the house is under construction, then all the necessary calculations are indicated in the project documentation and all that remains is to purchase everything you need and start work.

As noted earlier, this type of insulation can only be carried out at the stage of wall construction. To do this, you need to do the following:

1. first, we lay the outer wall, where every 5 rows of bricks we insert a metal pin made of wire with a diameter of 5 mm into the seam. We select the length of the pin in such a way as to drown it by 2 - 3 cm and the remaining part of the wire should be 2 - 3 cm more than the thickness of the used heat-insulating material;
2. as soon as the external wall with a height of 1 - 1.5 m was erected, we begin to install the thermal insulation in place, resting the materials on the pins;
3. in the end, we lay the inner wall, after which we again raise the outer one. And so on to the very top.

The method described above is suitable for materials produced by mats or boards, such as foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. You can also use expanded clay. To do this, you will have to erect both walls at once to a height of 1 - 1.5 m, leaving a gap of 10 - 15 cm between them and tying together with metal pins in the seams of the masonry. Then we fall asleep inside expanded clay and continue the construction of the walls. For this method of insulation, you should choose expanded clay of a large fraction. Since it has a lower density and therefore its overall weight will be less.

Important! You can not be limited only to the wall insulation of a brick house. The walls of such a house can be additionally insulated from the outside.

Insulation of a brick house outside

External insulation of a brick house consists in the insulation of the walls, basement and outer walls of the foundation. The technology of insulating a brick house from the outside consists in cleaning the walls of the building from construction debris and dirt for further fixing a multilayer insulating cake or furnishing over bare walls hinged structure with thermal insulation placed inside. From materials you can use polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, "warm" plaster. In this case, one simple rule must be observed - the sequence of arrangement of materials for insulating the walls of a brick house from the outside should be such that the vapor permeability of each next layer increases towards the outer edge.

To insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside with foam or extruded polystyrene foam, you need to do the following. Perform basic plastering on the walls to level out major irregularities, then clean the surface of the dirt and prime it. Then, in one of two ways, either with glue or with the help of front “umbrella” dowels, we fix the sheets of thermal insulation to the wall.

If you chose the first method, then you need to apply glue to the surface of the sheet and press it tightly against the wall. We carry out the work from the bottom up, placing the sheets gradually row by row. In this case, each next row is shifted relative to the previous one, placing the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. In such a simple way, the stability of the entire structure is achieved. When fastening with front dowels, we perform the same operations, with the difference that glue is applied to the surface of the sheet in small portions pointwise. Then, after gluing, in the wall through the sheet we drill a hole into which we insert the dowel. We reinforce the resulting surface with a special mesh, plaster and perform finishing paint or decorative plaster.

Video: insulation of a brick house outside with foam

Another popular way of exterior wall insulation is to create ventilated facade... The works on creation are as follows. The first thing to do is to place a vapor barrier layer on the wall surface, then create and fasten to the wall with metal or wooden frame... After that, we place a heat-insulating material between the frame slats, on top of which we lay a layer of waterproofing. For a ventilated facade, basalt or mineral wool is most often used. We fix heat and waterproofing materials to the wall using the already familiar front dowels with a wide head. At the end, we install the outer cladding made of siding, porcelain stoneware or other material.

The simplest and most widely available option for outdoor insulation is to use "Warm" plasters... The work consists in cleaning the walls from dirt, after which their surface is impregnated with a primer. Next, a plaster mesh and beacons are fixed on the wall, on which "warm" plaster will be applied. After the plastered walls have dried, they can be finished with decorative bark beetle plaster, clinker tiles, decorative facade bricks, or simply painted.

Insulation of the foundation and basement of a brick house is carried out by analogy with walls, with the only difference that it is not customary to create a ventilated facade for the foundation or basement. Most often, insulation is carried out with polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, clinker tiles or "warm" plaster.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside

Heat loss through external walls is only a fraction of the total heat loss. Most of the heat escapes through the roof and floor of a brick house. Of course, for more reliable heat retention, you can insulate the walls from the inside, and this requires very little effort. Consider the internal insulation of a brick house as it is built, from the floor to the roof.

Floor insulation in a brick house

The floors in a brick house are best insulated during the construction phase. It is also possible to make insulation in an already built house, but this is associated with increased labor costs. This is due to the need to disassemble and repair an existing wooden or concrete floor. Insulation of floors is carried out using foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral and basalt wool or expanded clay. Separately, the "warm floor" system should be highlighted, which, in combination with conventional heaters, will allow you to keep warm and provide additional heating at home.

During the construction of a new house, the insulation of wooden floors is carried out as follows:

• having created a structure from logs and a subfloor made of waterproof plywood, we put a layer of waterproofing on top of them. Edge between themselves waterproofing material we overlap, and the edges along the perimeter are brought up with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm;
• then we put insulation in the space between the lags. On top of the insulation, if desired, you can lay a layer of vapor barrier;
• the next will be a subfloor made of planks, on top of which the final floor and floor covering are laid.

If the house has two or more floors, then the insulation of the floors of the upper floors will also be the insulation of the ceiling in a brick house. In fact, you will have to create a wooden floor on the second floor on logs with insulation inside.

The creation of thermal insulation in an already built brick house begins with dismantling and repairing the wooden floor. After that, if necessary, excavation of excess soil is performed, backfilling of a new substrate from sand, gravel and their compaction. Finally, a lag construction and insulation are assembled according to the above scheme.

If a wooden floor can still be disassembled with minimal effort, then a concrete floor will require tremendous effort and a lot of time to remove the old screed. Therefore, it is extremely important to carry out insulation of concrete floors at the stage of building a house. The works themselves are as follows:

• after creating and compacting the cushions of sand and gravel on the ground, we perform a rough screed, lay a layer of waterproofing on top;

Important! To reduce the coefficient of thermal conductivity of concrete, expanded clay should be added to it. Such concrete will have a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W / (m · K), and not the usual 1.5 W / (m · K).

• then we lay the thermal insulation. For concrete floors, foam and extruded polystyrene foam are used. In addition to these materials, others can be stacked. The main thing is to choose the material with the greatest strength and density over 160 kg / m3;
• on top of this multi-layer cake a layer of vapor barrier is laid and a fine screed is poured, after which the final floor covering is laid.

Wall insulation from inside a brick house

In most cases, wall insulation inside a brick house is not performed due to the presence of external thermal insulation. But sometimes internal insulation is still necessary. Especially when the insufficient thickness of the walls or the maximum layer of thermal insulation on the outside is not enough to retain heat. For insulation of brick walls from the inside, mineral and stone wool, polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, cork or "warm" plaster.

Internal insulation of the walls of a brick house is as follows:

• clean the walls from dirt and saturate them with a primer;
• using wooden beams or metallic profile, equip the frame and fix it to the wall. Frame racks are placed in 40 cm or 60 cm steps;
• if necessary, trimming the insulation to the width of the opening between the posts, we put it inside the resulting structure;
• from above we sheathe with plasterboard, plaster and apply the finishing.

Important! Internal insulation of a brick house with foam or extruded polystyrene foam is highly undesirable due to the toxicity and flammability of these materials.

Insulation of the attic and roof of a brick house

In the question of how best to insulate a brick house, it is impossible to bypass such parts of the house as the roof and attic. After all, it is through them that up to 40% of the total heat losses can evaporate. This is due to the simple laws of physics, according to which warm air is lighter than cold air and therefore all the heat goes up. Therefore, in order to keep warm in a brick house, it is so important to insulate the roof and attic.

To insulate the attic, you must do the following:

• if you use floor beams as logs, you can build the already familiar structure of a wooden floor with insulation, but with minor changes;
• cover the beams themselves and the space between them with a vapor barrier;
• then the space between the beams is filled with ecowool, mineral wool or basalt wool;
• on top, for ease of movement in the attic, we lay a rough floor of rough boards.

Important! To maintain the operational properties of the attic and roof insulation, it is necessary to equip high-quality ventilation of the under-roof space.

House roof insulation is performed as follows:

• over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe structure, we lay it between the rafters and fix the vapor barrier. We overlap the edges of the material and glue it with adhesive tape;
• in the space between the rafters, we lay the thermal insulation material. It can be polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral or basalt wool, as well as any other insulation with low thermal conductivity and low density;
• on top of the flooring we lay another layer of vapor barrier and to maintain the insulation in place, we fasten the crate in increments of 0.4 - 0.5 m.

Despite the large amount of work to create thermal insulation for a brick house, everything is quite simple. Anyone who knows how to use the tool and has minimal experience can carry out insulation construction works... In order for everything to be done correctly, it is necessary to adhere to SNiPs and the recommendations of specialists.

Content

Brick is a classic material for building a house, designed for many decades of use. The thermal conductivity of brick walls depends on its thickness - the number of rows of masonry. If a wall in a brick house freezes in the very first winter after construction, this means that the construction technology is broken or the thickness of the enclosing structures is insufficient. In this case, it is required to solve the issue of thermal insulation of the external walls of the building. Priority should be given to external insulation, but its installation is not always possible. Consider how to insulate a brick house from the inside, what materials are preferable to use and how to properly perform the installation of thermal insulation.

How to insulate the internal brick walls of a house Features of wall insulation

Human activity is associated with a large release of heat and moisture. Heat is radiated by bodies, household appliances. Moisture is released during breathing, during cooking, using water for hygiene procedures, washing dishes, watering flowers. And the warmer the air, the better it retains moisture.

If the walls are not sufficiently insulated, condensation will form on them when the heated humid air cools. It will provoke the development of the fungus, and will appear on the surface of the walls and ceiling dark spots... Fungal spores are harmful to human health - they enter the respiratory system, causing asthma attacks or an allergic reaction. In addition, mold has a destructive effect on the materials from which the walls are erected, irreparably spoiling the finish.

Wall with and without insulation

Before insulating the walls of a brick house from the inside, it is advisable to understand how this will affect the operating conditions of the external walls and the microclimate in the room.

Where to locate the insulation?

It is correct to insulate buildings from the outside, otherwise condensation of moisture from steam cannot be avoided when warm air comes into contact with a cold front (dew point). Consider three types of brick walls:

• There is no insulation. The dew point is located in the thickness of the wall, so it accumulates moisture in winter months, dampens and collapses over time.
• The insulating layer is located on the side of the room. The wall freezes through, due to which the dew point shifts towards the room, to the inner surface of the enclosing structure. Because of this, moisture condenses between the heat insulator and the wall. To avoid dampness of the wall, it is necessary to provide effective ventilation premises.
• The insulating layer is laid from the street side. The wall does not freeze, so it stays dry and releases steam freely. It is important that a ventilation gap is provided between the insulating layer and the brickwork to drain moisture from the room.

Internal instead of external

It is obvious that insulating a brick house from the inside is not the best solution. However, you have to resort to it if:

• The building is an architectural monument, and it is forbidden to make changes in appearance facade.
• The walls of an apartment in a multi-storey building are freezing. According to current regulations, it is impossible to unauthorizedly mount structures that change the appearance of a building.
• The buildings are located close to each other, which makes it impossible to work on external wall insulation.
• The outer masonry of the house is made of expensive facing bricks and it is a pity to cover it with a new finish, but in order to lay a new outer layer of decorative brick after the installation of thermal insulation, additional serious financial investments are required.

The disadvantages of insulation interior walls include a decrease in the space of the room due to the fastening of the insulation and the base for finishing. The thickness of the insulating “cake” is usually at least 10 cm.

When installing a heat insulator inside the house, it is important to take into account that the insulation internal surfaces the walls are threatened with condensation, which should not be allowed.

Ventilation gap improves the thermal conductivity of the wall

Vapor permeability

In order to breathe well in the living room and the air is not excessively humidified, high-quality ventilation is necessary. In buildings with brick walls, it is easy to breathe, since the material is vapor-permeable due to the porous structure. And so that excess moisture does not condense under a layer of insulation on the wall, but freely leaves the room, it is required to observe important rule - the vapor permeability should increase towards the outside, i.e. to the street.

This means that when insulating walls made of bricks from the inside, you cannot use materials that let steam through better than the brick itself. Otherwise, it will lead to the deposition of condensate on the structures. That is, sheathing of a freezing wall with plasterboard will provoke a constant dampness of structures in the cold season.

Material selection criteria

In the process of choosing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, it is important to consider thermal insulation parameters material, as well as indicators of its vapor permeability. To shield the freezing brick walls from contact with steam, choose one of three options:

• A polymer heat insulator is used that does not allow steam to pass through. Extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam will help insulate the walls from the inside high density (loose material is vapor-permeable), penofol, sprayed polyurethane foam.
• They carry out the laying of mineral wool insulation (as well as loose foam) using high-quality hydro and vapor barrier. A fiber heat insulator is vapor permeable and tends to accumulate moisture. Basalt wool does not collapse under the influence of water, but its insulating properties deteriorate sharply.
• A thick layer of heat-insulating plaster is applied to the enclosing structures.

When deciding what is better to insulate your brick house, take into account the method of installing the heat insulator. In almost all cases, you can do insulation from the inside with your own hands. The exception is the spraying of polyurethane foam, since the work requires the use of special equipment.

Material properties and installation technology

Let's figure out which insulation is better for the walls of a brick house, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of each option, as well as the installation features of popular materials.

Note! The thickness of the insulating layer is calculated individually, taking into account the heat loss of the house and the thermal insulation properties of the selected material!

Mineral wool

Internal insulation of brick walls with mineral wool slabs has a certain specificity due to the vapor-permeable structure of the material. The heat insulator is required to be closed on both sides with a vapor barrier film, ensuring tightness to prevent heated humid air from contacting the enclosing structures.

The scheme of insulation of internal brick walls with mineral wool

Work progress:

• a vapor barrier film is attached to the wall (with an overlap on the adjacent planes of the walls, floor and ceiling), the joints of the rolled material are securely glued with tape;
• a vertical crate is mounted with a step slightly less than the width of the heat insulator, the depth of the cells should correspond to the thickness of the insulation;
• mineral wool slabs are embedded in the cells;
• a vapor barrier material with hermetically sealed butt joints is attached on top;
• a counter-lattice is stuffed for fastening sheathing made of chipboard sheets, drywall or other materials.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Benefits modern material - in excellent thermal insulation properties, lightness and strength. Extruded polystyrene foam is fire resistant. It is possible to insulate structures with this material by analogy with mineral wool, but the lathing contributes to the formation of cold bridges, which lead to the formation of zones of condensation.

The scheme of insulation of brick walls with expanded polystyrene inside the room
Consider how to properly insulate a brick wall from the inside using extruded polystyrene foam:

• the surface is cleaned, leveled with a thin layer of plaster and primed;
• with the help of polyurethane foam or foam glue, foam polymer boards are glued to the wall - the elements are positioned with a shift of half the width to avoid long vertical seams;
• joints are filled polyurethane foam, after hardening, the excess is cut off.

The best option after these works can be gluing a reinforcing mesh and plastering the surface for painting or wallpapering. You can also use the dowels "fungi" to attach pieces of metal profile length of about 10 cm, which then sew drywall. But the use of "fungi" violates the integrity of the insulating layer.

Styrofoam

The advantage of foam is its low cost, in all other respects it is significantly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam. The main drawback of the material is flammability with the release of toxic substances. Foam plastic with a density of at least 35 kg / m 3 can be used as a heat insulator. To make thermal insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside, a high-density material (about 50 kg / m 3) can be mounted using the technology of fastening extruded polystyrene foam, and a looser, steam-permeable material can be used as mineral wool... In this case, the joints between the elements of thermal insulation and the crate are sealed with polyurethane foam.

The scheme of wall insulation from the inside with foam plastic

Penofol

The polyethylene foam heat insulator can be foiled on one side or on both sides. The material is distinguished by its small thickness with high thermal insulation properties. Penofol 4 mm thick is able to replace 80 mm mineral wool. At the same time, it is often used together with mineral wool slabs in order to increase the thermal insulation properties of the "cake", while reducing its thickness. In this case, it is attached instead of a vapor barrier film after laying the heat insulator in the crate.

You can make thermal insulation of walls and partitions from one foam foam. Rails with a thickness of 20 mm or more are stuffed onto the walls to create air gap... Mount with brackets horizontal stripes foam foam with a foil layer to the room, gluing the joints with aluminum tape. Then a counter-lattice is stuffed for wall cladding for decoration. The foil layer reflects heat radiation, helping to retain heat in the house.

Sprayed PU foam

Spray polyurethane foam will help to make a warm wall without cold bridges. The foamed polymer is applied in an even layer to the prepared surface using special equipment. If the estimated layer thickness exceeds 3–4 cm, it is recommended to mount the crate-formwork, which will serve as the basis for fastening the cladding for the finishing. The disadvantage of the material is the high cost of work.

Internal insulated walls with polyurethane foam

Plaster

Plastering walls is a classic method of insulation. it a good option, if you do not want to turn the room into a sealed box with artificial ventilation, since the plaster layer is "breathable", like the brick wall itself. The disadvantages include the duration and complexity of the "wet" work - plastering will have to be done in several layers to achieve the required thickness of thermal protection.

Application of plaster for brick walls

Conclusion

Knowing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside using different kinds materials, their advantages and disadvantages, it is easier to choose suitable option... If you plan to do the whole range of work with your own hands, you must follow the instructions, because a violation of technology threatens with serious consequences in the form of mold on the walls and gradual destruction brickwork... We must not forget that internal insulation requires the arrangement of supply and exhaust ventilation, which will remove excess moisture.

Let me just in case describe how I understand your situation (so that I understand everything correctly, and do not advise too much). It's just that you have a question not only about insulation, but also about heating (in another branch, here), so I will "collect" all the information together. And you, if anything, correct. So:

You currently live in a house with no heating, except for three fireplaces. House on one floor + residential attic. The walls of the house are built with a thickness of 370mm (one and a half bricks). The walls are insulated from the inside with 50mm foam. The attic is not insulated. The floors are not insulated. The house is cold.

In this thread you ask how to insulate, and in another (via the link above), which heating to choose. Since the answer for heating depends on the answer for insulation, let's first determine how best to insulate, then (when it becomes clear how to insulate), we will calculate the amount of heat loss for your house (taking into account that you insulate it). Knowing the amount of heat loss, it will be possible (knowing your prices for electrics and gas) to understand how cheaper it is to heat.

I hope she explained :-). Therefore, let's start with insulation.

Walls. It is best to properly insulate the walls of the house from the outside, and remove the insulation from the inside altogether. The simplest insulation outside - insulation under the cladding. Insulation - mineral wool or fiberglass wool. Mineral wool density 35-50 kg / m3, fiberglass wool - 17 kg / m3 (slab, non-roll positions). A crate (wooden or metal) is attached to the outside wall. Insulation is laid in the crate. On top of the insulation is a superdiffusion membrane (it waterproofs and protects from the wind), then a gap of 2-4 cm, and the cladding material (siding, for example). Insulation thickness - 100mm. If you insulate the house in this way from the outside, then, in principle, you can not remove the foam from the inside. It will only be necessary to perform a calculation according to whether you have enough ventilation (both supply and exhaust). Let me explain why. You now have plastic windows (do not allow air to pass through), walls in foam plastic also do not allow air to pass through. And the house should have both an air supply and an exhaust hood. Otherwise, the walls will get wet and it will be stuffy. To check how you have (enough supply and exhaust or not), I need to make a calculation. For the calculation, I need the following data:

• plans for the first and attic floors, with the name of the premises, and with the areas of all premises
• on the plans, mark where the windows, doors
• note where the exhaust ducts are located and their diameters
• height (along the facade) of all walls of the house, and separately on each floor the height of the ceiling

this information can be sent in any quality, if only it could be disassembled, here, look how the reader specified the same data,. Can be drawn by hand, photographed and laid out.

Roof.If the attic is residential, then you need to completely insulate the roof slope. The insulation scheme and the type of insulation will depend on how your attic room is made (in form).

How is your attic room made:

1.directly under the roof

Room under the roof

2. or "rectangle of the room in the triangle of the roof" :-)

How you insulate it will depend on which option you have (1 or 2).

Floor. You haven't written how it works. I can't recommend anything without it.

I am waiting for your clarifications, thank you.