How to make a concrete screed indoors. Filling floors with concrete screed: a beginner's guide. Preparation of the base for pouring concrete screed

In this article I will tell you how to do a do-it-yourself concrete floor screed. Next, you will learn about all the nuances of filling, which will allow you to cope with this work without the help of specialists.

Filling technology

The screed filling process includes several main stages:

Preparation of materials

First of all, you need to prepare the materials for preparing the solution. Its composition depends on the area of \u200b\u200bapplication of the screed.

If you are leveling the floor in a residential area, then you will need fine-grained concrete or, in other words, a cement-sand mortar. This composition includes only cement of grades M400-500 and sand, as well as a plasticizer that improves the quality of the solution.

There are ready-made screeds on the market, which contain the optimal ratio of cement, sand and improving additives. The price for such mixtures starts from 150-200 rubles per bag weighing 25 kg.

If the screed will be poured in the garage or, for example, on the street, then ordinary concrete should be used.In this case, in addition to sand and cement, you will need gravel or crushed stone, preferably a fine fraction (5-20 mm). This will allow you to get an almost perfectly smooth surface, moreover, it will be easier for you to work with such a solution.

You can use the online calculator to calculate the amount of all ingredients. The only thing, for this you need to know not only the square of the floor, but also the thickness of the screed, which depends on the differences in the base, i.e. on how uneven the floor is.

To make the floor warmer and the screed lighter, you can add expanded clay or even expanded polystyrene granules to the concrete.

In addition to the components for the solution, you will also need other materials:

• waterproofing film;
• damper tape;
• reinforcing mesh with a wire thickness of 3 mm and a mesh size of 100x100 mm;

• beacon;
• a small amount of plaster;
• insulation - needed if the floor will be insulated.

Of the tools, you must have a concrete mixer, a level and a rule.

Foundation preparation

Before making a concrete floor screed, it is imperative to prepare the base.

This procedure is performed in the following sequence:

1. first of all, it is necessary to clean the floor from dust, peeling surfaces and any other debris;

1. it is advisable to cover the floor with a primer or an anti-mildew compound to prevent the occurrence of fungus. To do this, you can use a paint roller, as shown in the photo above;
2. then you need to lay a waterproofing film on the floor. Be sure to lay the sheets of the film with an overlap and curl on the walls, and glue the joints with tape.

1. if the floor is insulated, a layer of thermal insulation should be installed, for example, foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Put the insulation so that there are no gaps between the plates;
2. then another layer of thermal insulation is laid;
3. lay a damper tape around the perimeter of the floor;

1. then you need to lay the reinforcing mesh, which should also be located with a slight overlap. To place the mesh in the thickness of the concrete, place rubble stones or wooden blocks under it. You can also use special plastic reinforcement clamps.

The preparation of the base for pouring the so-called "warm floors", which have recently been very popular, is carried out in a slightly different way.

In this case, the work is carried out as follows:

• thermal insulation is laid on the waterproofing, which is usually used as penofol. Let me remind you that this heat-insulating material is laid with the foil facing up. The joints of penofol must be glued with tape;
• then the reinforcing mesh is laid according to the scheme described above;

• then the contours of the warm floor are laid, which must be attached to the reinforcing mesh. For these purposes, you can use plastic clamps.
  After that, you can start installing beacons.

Installation of beacons

In order for the concrete screed to be flat, the guides must be installed correctly.

This work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. first you need to mark the zero level on the wall. To do this, find the highest point of the floor, then step back 40 mm from it, and draw a point on the nearest wall. This will be the zero level;
2. through the resulting point, you need to draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the entire room... To do this, use a pencil and a level. If you have a water level, transfer the zero point to the corners, and then connect them with lines using a paint cord;

1. now you can install the first beacon, stepping back 25 cm from the wall. To do this, screw in the screws on the line of the rail near two opposite walls. Their caps should be at zero;
2. then attach the beacon profile to the caps, and check its position with a level. If there is a deviation from the horizontal, adjust its position with one of the screws. As a result, the caps should be located in the same horizontal plane;

1. after that, you need to lay out the lumps of gypsum mortar along the location line so that they are above the caps of the screws. You can also use cement mortar for these purposes, however, it will harden much longer.
2. now you need to install the profile in the same way near the opposite wall. During its installation, make sure that both beacons are in the same horizontal plane along the entire length;
   Then drown the profile in lumps so that it lies on the screws. Do the work carefully so that the profile does not bend. After installing the beacon, be sure to check its position again with a level;
3. then the threads should be pulled between two opposite beacons. This will align the intermediate guides with them. As a result, they will all be located in the same plane, respectively, the concrete screed will turn out to be even;
4. now intermediate beacons are installed with a step of 1.2-1.5 meters.

If the floor is already finished in the next room, then when determining the zero level for the screed, you must focus on it. Do not forget to subtract the thickness of the floor covering from the floor level, if any.

Solution preparation

Now you can prepare the mortar for the concrete screed. The proportion depends on the brand of cement.

For a cement-sand screed in a residential area, M400 cement can be used in a ratio of one to three. If you plan to pour the screed, for example, in the garage, make a solution in the following proportion:

Ingredients	Proportions
Cement М500	1h
Sand	2h
Crushed stone	4h

I must say that exact ratios and proportions do not exist, but only recommendations. Therefore, different specialists often use different recipes to prepare the solution.

I must say that the quality of the screed depends not only on the proportions and ingredients, but also on the quality of the solution preparation.

Therefore, we will consider how to make the solution correctly:

1. sand before use must be sieved through a sieve;
2. then it is necessary to pour dry components into the concrete mixer and mix them thoroughly until a homogeneous gray mixture is formed;

1. then water is added to the solution. Do not pour too much water, as this will reduce the strength of the solution. 0.5-0.8 parts are quite enough.

Together with water, a plasticizer is added to the concrete mixer. The manufacturer indicates its quantity and method of application on the packaging;

1. after the formation of a homogeneous mass, a solid filler must be added to the solution. It must be clean. If the gravel or crushed stone is dirty, it must be washed;
2. It is necessary to mix the contents of the concrete mixer until the crushed stone or gravel is evenly distributed in the concrete.

To prepare the solution, you must use dry sand. Therefore, if necessary, it must be dried.

This completes the preparation of the solution.

Fill

So, we figured out the preparation. Now let's look at how to pour concrete.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. start filling from the opposite direction from the entrance. First, fill in the span farthest from the wall.
   Just pour the concrete onto the floor from a bucket, and then level it with a rule, pulling it along the guides towards you. At the same time, slightly wiggle the rule from side to side to make the solution thicken and lighter evenly;

1. then the second and all subsequent spans are poured in the same way;
2. after the concrete screed has set, you need to remove the guides and cover the resulting cracks with a solution;

1. then do-it-yourself grouting of the screed with the help of a bevel. This will make the surface stronger and smoother.

This completes the screed filling process. Now it is important to moisten it with water for the first few days. If this is not done, the surface may crack.

- a rough covering that allows you to level the building base, mask defects, raise the floor and improve the sound and heat insulation of the room. This design is performed different ways, including using a concrete solution. There are several types of similar materials and, to make right choice, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the properties of each product. Lovers who equip the screed on their own are advised by the masters to study the technology for making such a rough coating.

There are several types of concrete floor screed, depending on the method of forming the rough coating:

1. Tied screed. This option is suitable for rooms where the aesthetic side of the floor reconstruction is not important, as well as for rooms located on the ground floor. The mortar is poured onto the building base and distributed using a rule. The result is a relatively flat surface. This is a simple type of screed that does not require the arrangement of a waterproofing layer or the setting of beacons. For this reason, roughing is popular.
2. Screed with waterproofing. Such a rough coating is performed in rooms above the second floor, as well as in rooms with high humidity - swimming pools, bathrooms, showers and kitchens. First, a waterproofing coating is laid on the building base, and after that beacons are placed, the solution is poured and the composition is distributed over the surface using the rule. This rough finish protects the building substrate from moisture.
3. Insulated screed. Such a coating is performed in order to increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor and improve the indoor microclimate. Usually, such a screed is installed on the first floors in order to protect the apartment from the cold coming from the basement. Layers of the rough coating are performed as follows: waterproofing layer, thermal insulation material, concrete mortar.
4. Self-leveling screed. In this case, an additional self-leveling fill is distributed over the concrete with a thin layer, which creates a flat surface. This type of screed is usually used for laying linoleum or laminate flooring, since such coatings do not tolerate flaws on the building base.
5. Reinforced screed. This roughing coating has increased strength and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The sequence of layers in this case looks like this - waterproofing material, reinforcing product, concrete mortar.
6. Fiber screed. This is one of the reinforced roughing options. Fiber is a reinforcing material that increases the strength of the screed. Such a product is added directly to the solution, which eliminates the need to fix the reinforcing mesh on the surface. The composition is poured onto the waterproofing coating and leveled with the rule along the guides.

Solutions for pouring concrete screeds

There are several types of solutions for arranging a concrete screed:

Classic composition

To prepare such a solution, cement and sand are used in proportions of 1: 3. To knead a quality product, it is recommended to use quarry sand. This material provides the strength of the mortar and protects the material from cracking and the formation of other defects. Before mixing the product, it is recommended to sift the sand through a metal sieve with fine mesh. Next, cement and sand are combined and water is added so that a composition of medium density is obtained. After hardening, the liquid solution shrinks and does not have sufficient strength. Such a product also does not level the surface, since it will not be possible to distribute the product using the rule due to the liquid consistency. If you make the composition too thick, then the material will not be distributed over the surface. For this reason, it is important to add enough water to create a liquid solution. Certain standards have been established for the ratio of liquid and cement-sand composition. However, such proportions are applicable for the arrangement of reinforced concrete pavements on an industrial scale. For home furnishing of the screed, it is recommended to be guided "by eye". Usually the masters take a liter of water for 5 kg of the mixture. It is important that the water is clean. This affects the quality of the screed. Do not use technical liquid, since such water contains oils and other foreign substances. A concrete mixer is used to mix the product. After that, a solution is obtained that is easily distributed over the building base, creating a reliable support without air voids.

Ready-made dry mixes for screed

In order not to independently select the proportions of materials for preparing the solution, it is recommended to use ready-made dry mixes for the screed. These products are optimally matched required amount of each element, as well as on the packaging, the exact amount of water required to mix the solution is indicated.

Ready mixes have the following advantages over self-prepared formulations:

1. • to knead the solution, a concrete mixer is not required, it is enough to use an industrial mixer or a drill with a mixer attachment;
   • the screed made of ready-made dry mixes is distinguished by its strength, durability and resistance to mechanical stress;
   • finished products are lighter than self-prepared mixtures, which makes it easier to prepare the solution and transport the material;
   • the line of products includes such compositions that are selected for different conditions of use - for rooms with high humidity, for unheated rooms, and so on;
   • with the use of the solution, there will be no problems even for amateurs who have no experience in construction.

The only drawback of ready-made dry mixes compared to the material prepared independently is the high cost.

Concrete floor pouring technology

To make your own floor screed, it is recommended to adhere to the base pouring technology.

Zero level concrete floor

Zero-level concrete floor helps to flatten the screed by correcting surface differences. To make the markings, you need a laser level. Since this is an expensive device, it is recommended to rent the unit, which will save a significant amount of money. You can also use a water or building level.

To make the markup, proceed as follows:

• "By eye" determine the high corner of the room and put a mark in an arbitrary place at a distance of 1.2-1.5 m from the floor;
• with the device, such a mark is transferred to other walls of the room, as well as other rooms, if the screed is equipped throughout the apartment;
• the marks are connected by lines along the perimeter of the room, and if the connection occurs at one point, then the level is set without errors;
• measurements are taken from the zero level line to the floor every 0.5 m, and the readings are recorded with chalk on the wall.

The minimum point value is the maximum height of the parcel. After setting the zero level, the screed height is calculated:

• subtract the amount of the screed from the digit of the upper point and put a mark - this is the distance from the reference line of the roughing to the zero level;
• the obtained value from the zero level to the reference line is transferred around the entire perimeter;
• the marks are connected in one line.

Preparatory work

Before performing the screed, the building base is prepared. The preparation algorithm depends on the type of surface. If the screed is made for a private house, which stands directly on the ground, they act as follows:

• remove the top layers of the soil to get a depression of 500 mm;
• sand 100 mm high is laid and compacted;
• gravel with a thickness of 100 mm is placed and also compacted;
• a layer of expanded clay is laid and poured with concrete from above so that a height of 200 mm is obtained;
• after the mortar has solidified, roofing material is laid on the building base in order to protect the building base from moisture penetration, while the sheets are overlapped and overlapped on the walls to the height of the screed;
• perform reinforcement and directly roughing.

The building base in the apartment is prepared as follows:

• delete old flooring;
• dismantle the old screed using a perforator;
• the room is freed from construction debris, and the surface is dedusted;
• if there are defects on the surface, then the cracks are expanded, treated with a primer and poured with a solution;
• in the presence of large differences in the surface, the flaws are cut off with a grinder;
• metal elements are dismantled or treated with an anti-corrosion agent, if this is not possible;
• the building base is treated with a primer, while the primer is applied in two layers with a break for drying;
• the surface is covered with a waterproofing film with an overlap of 20 cm on top of each other, and the edges of the material are admitted to the walls more than the height of the screed;
• on the walls around the perimeter, a damper tape is fixed.

After that, the screed is performed.

Arrangement of beacons

To evenly distribute the solution over the surface, beacons are placed. Before fixing the guides, make the appropriate markings:

• lines are applied on the floor along the room from the wall opposite the door;
• measure the distance from the walls 2.5-3 cm and make a mark - the same manipulation is carried out on the opposite side of the wall;
• a straight line is drawn along the marking, from which marks for the remaining guides are made at a distance less than the length of the rule from each other;
• the markings are connected in horizontal lines.

After that, the profiles are installed directly. They do this in several ways, but most often they use self-tapping screws:

• between the walls opposite the door, pull the fishing line parallel to the zero level;
• where the fishing line intersects with a line located close to the wall, make a hole with a drill, where a dowel is installed and a self-tapping screw is inserted - this manipulation is performed from the opposite side;
• stretch another fishing line along the wall, fixing the material on the caps of the screws;
• at a distance of 3.5-4 cm, other screws are fixed along the line of the fishing line - this manipulation is performed on the rest of the markings;
• the height of the fasteners is checked by the building level and, if defects are found, inaccuracies are corrected;
• cement mortar is put on the screws in small bumps;
• on top of the composition, the guides are fixed - the lighthouse is placed on the solution and the profile is firmly pressed so that the surface reaches the screw cap.

Floor pouring concrete

To prepare a solution using a concrete mixer, proceed as follows:

• the required amount of water is placed in a working unit;
• add cement and leave until the material is diluted in liquid;
• gravel is poured into the solution so that the material contributes to the final separation of the cement;
• add the entire amount of sand and, if the solution turns out to be too thick, pour water;
• crushed stone is poured and the concrete mixer is left in working order until the mortar is kneaded - all this takes 122 minutes.

If you use an industrial mixer or a drill with a mixer attachment, then proceed as follows:

• water is poured into the container and the material is added in the proportions that the manufacturer indicates on the package;
• the solution is kneaded with a tool until the consistency of thick sour cream;
• the material is left for 5 minutes, re-mixed and used as directed.

Pouring the subfloor

Algorithm for pouring a building base with concrete:

• using a shovel, the solution is placed on one "track" of the profiles;
• the mixture is spread over the surface with a trowel, filling in voids and removing excess;
• the solution is leveled with a rule;
• manipulation is carried out on the remaining "tracks".

Floor screed works

After pouring the solution, the beacons are dismantled. To do this, wait for the mixture to set and remove the guides, carefully stepping on the building base. All voids are filled with a solution. The material is spread over the surface with a trowel, removing excess mixture. Take a break of 28 days. During this time, the material finally solidifies and gains strength. For several days after pouring, the surface is sprayed with water to prevent cracking. After the material has dried, the surface is sanded and the floor decorating coating is laid.

To extract the mortar from a concrete mixer, professionals recommend equipping a gutter. This design will direct the mixture to the right place and prevent contamination of the device.

Professionals also recommend that you raise the mesh reinforcement over the building base. They do it like this - a mesh is laid on the surface, a small amount of solution is placed, after which the reinforcing material is slightly raised so that the composition is distributed between the cells, lifting the mesh. This will protect the product from displacement during mechanical stress on the surface.

The video in this article demonstrates the rules for arranging a concrete screed.

The concrete screed is a durable rough coating. This element of the floor structure helps to improve the sound and thermal insulation performance of the room.

October 14, 2017 No comments

Concrete flooring is very popular today. Even in private houses, where the trend towards wooden floors has been maintained for a long time with the advent of "warm floors" technology, the concrete screed is confidently replacing all other technologies. And all because it has a number of advantages. Concrete floors are strong, durable and withstand heavy loads.

Most importantly, it is not necessary to be a specialist or a builder with extensive experience to lay a concrete floor screed. But some skills will still be useful to you.

A finished floor is mounted on a finished, properly made, dried screed - they put tiles, lay a laminate, parquet boardlaying linoleum.

If you decide to make such a floor yourself, then you still have to learn the technology, stock up on materials and assistants. After all, a robot is often not for one person, but if the area is small, you can do it yourself.

You should know that there are several types of concrete screed.

A connected screed is the most durable because it is made on concrete floors or rough floor with a pre-primed surface. Yes, such a concrete floor is very durable, but the heat and sound insulation in it is not very good.

Screed on a separating layer. Made on a layer of waterproofing (roofing felt, mastic) and often with a layer of thermal insulation - mineral wool, foam or other. Such screed less durable but insulates sound well and retains heat. It is worth considering and in the place where the fireplace or stove is laid do not use insulation, you can only put waterproofing. In this way, we will create a certain foundation and increase the strength of the concrete in the right place.

To increase the strength of the concrete screed is often used metal mesh with large cells (3-10 cm.).

But also for this purpose, you can increase the layer of the screed itself, use concrete best brand, reinforce with fiberglass or reinforcement 8-12 mm., making the necessary cells from it. We tie the armature with wire or weld it with welding. Also for this purpose, you can add a plasticizer.

It is not always advisable to reinforce concrete floor... In a private house where heavy loads are not expected (bathroom, kitchen), it is quite possible to do without reinforcement.

But in multi-storey buildings put into operation, you should definitely take care of high-quality waterproofing. When pouring concrete floor a lot of water is released, which can ruin the repair of the neighbors below.

When installing a warm floor, thermal insulation is required, and along the walls you need to lay special tapewhich will prevent the floor from cracking during heating and cooling.

Preparatory work

First of all, we remove all the debris, if any, remove all the falling off parts. We look at the base and assess its condition. If the old screed is already very bad, all cracked and falling off in pieces, it is better to remove it. Well, if it holds tightly, you can do it on top of it. We prime the surface well.

Screed by wooden floor has its own nuances. It is better to replace rotten boards, fill up gaps, fill large ones polyurethane foam... Apply a primer and make a waterproofing layer.

Also at preparatory workah you need to set the floor level.

The easiest way to do this is to use a laser level. It is very simple to use it - we install it in the middle of the room, turn it on and mark with a pencil a line on the wall along the luminous line from the laser. But if you are not a professional, it will be expensive to purchase.

In this case, you can get by with a water level. working with it is a little more difficult, but you will get the same result.

Water level - transparent and bendable tube. We fill it with water, making sure that there are no air bubbles. It is necessary to measure for two. At the first point, we measure a certain distance from the floor (any, for example, 150 cm, so that it would be convenient to work), draw on the wall (We mark it in the corners of the room, it's easier.). Then one person keeps constantly without moving his end of the hose (level) and the water level in it at one point, coinciding with the drawn line on the wall. The second at this time adjusts its end of the water level so that the water in the first level is even and makes a mark in its corner. Using this method, we mark the entire room, house, apartment, floor - whichever is needed.

Then we measure the same distance down from the marks to hide all the unevenness of the floor, and mark. Bearing in mind that the optimum thickness of the screed is 5-7 cm. The marks are connected with a paint cord. Thus, we get straight, connecting lines of the future floor around the entire perimeter. We will put beacons on them for screed.

If the room is small, a regular building level can be used to measure the field level.

Installation of beacons for floor screed

The installation of screed beacons is needed for its high-quality performance. With their help, the surface is fairly easy to level.

As beacons for screeds, you can use metal pipes, corners, wooden slats... But it is easier and more reliable to use ready-made beacons sold in hardware stores.

It is not advisable to use wooden slats, since they are easily deformed from moisture and will not allow you to do the job efficiently.

Lighthouses should be laid directly from the entrance door, that is, perpendicular to the wall with this door. We retreat 15-20 cm from the edge of the walls. The distance between the lighthouses is 120-10 cm. If the rule is 150 cm. The rule (or on an extreme flat edged board) is a tool with which we tighten and level the concrete. So that the edges of the rule with a margin capture at least 2 lighthouses.

It is better to install lighthouses on a thick cement mortar, where we put pieces of broken brick, metal or plastic plates... The main thing is that the material does not absorb moisture. Cardboard, wood scraps will not work.

To install the lighthouses, we make a thick cement mortar and use a trowel in the place of the planned installation, either in heaps with a distance of 10-20 cm from one another (how many will be taken) or in a straight line without gaps this solution. We put a lighthouse on top and press it with a building level in such a way as to align the lighthouse horizontally and align it with the markings of the future floor. We remove the excess solution, which is above the lighthouse.

Although the lighthouses are set to fill the screed, we are waiting until the next day for the mortar to set.

Purchased beacons are just as easy to install on dowels. We drill a hole, drive in a dowel, put something under the lighthouse for alignment, and screw a self-tapping screw into the driven dowel through the lighthouse. In this case, it must be remembered that the waterproofing, if such has been done, will be violated.

It should also be noted that in some rooms a slope of the concrete floor is required. Then the beacons need to be installed with an inclination where necessary and not strictly along a horizontal level.

Preparation of concrete mix

If you buy a ready-made mixture, be sure to observe all the proportions indicated in the instructions.

But usually for concrete screed use a cement-sand mortar, it is not so expensive, and in quality it is not much inferior to ready-made mixtures.

Often, concrete is prepared for the floor screed in a ratio of 1 to 3. We take 1 part of cement grade 400 and 3 parts of sand, water - as much is needed to prepare the plastic mass.

The main thing is that the finished solution should be beaten with a homogeneous mass, which spreads and does not spread.

For cooking cement mortar easier to use a concrete mixer.

But if you don't need too much solution, then cooking with a mixer will do.

Well, you also need to remember that the solution is easy to prepare with a shovel. In this case, the quality will be worse than that of a solution made with a mixer or in a mixer.

You need to fill the entire floor at once, do not leave flaws for tomorrow, since the quality of concrete depends on this.

After preparing one portion, you must immediately proceed to the second. This makes it easier to work with an assistant. While one is preparing the mixture, the second is laying and leveling.

Laying and leveling of concrete screed

You should start from the far corner, no matter from which right or left. The solution is spread between two beacons. Use a rule (special tool) to distribute the solution.

It is easier to distribute a bunch of mortar with a trowel or a shovel, but we tighten it further by the rule by moving it to the right-left and push slightly down until you rest against its edges against the lighthouses. Use a trowel and trowel to simplify the process. Fill in any voids carefully. After distributing one portion, proceed to the second and so on until the end of the process of pouring the concrete floor. Do not allow long breaks so that the solution does not harden.

After a certain time, the concrete floor will dry out a little, so that you can walk on it without leaving dents (about 12 hours in summer), take out the lighthouses and seal up the recesses left with mortar.

When dry, the concrete screed must be moistened 2-3 times a day for several days. Avoid heavy loads until 1 week.

Completely concrete floor dry after 3 weeks. Before that, it is not advisable to lay linoleum or parquet flooring, since excess moisture will do its job.

Pouring a concrete floor screed is a fairly simple job and even one person can do it, but it's easier for two or three people. The most difficult thing is to place the beacons evenly and correctly.

Video: DIY concrete floor screed

Building a durable and reliable floor requires a base with an even greater level of strength and durability than a floor covering. Concrete floors are leaders in these parameters. A solid, level and dry concrete floor is the ideal base for any kind of flooring. In addition, concrete floors can withstand a large surface load, which allows them to be poured in rooms where heavy objects and equipment are planned to be installed.

Concrete floors - casting technology

Concrete is an affordable and fairly cheap material, it is easy to work with and does not require special knowledge and skills. Thanks to these qualities, many equip a concrete floor with their own hands during construction country houses or renovation in apartments. The main thing is to know how to properly pour the concrete floor so that it is strong and durable. Therefore, before pouring the concrete floor, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the technology of pouring the concrete floor, acquire necessary tool and carry out preparatory work, after which you can safely proceed to pouring the concrete floor. All work can be done independently, but to increase speed and maintain strength, you will need a partner who will do his part of the work.

Pouring a concrete floor is divided into several stages:

• preparation of the foundation;
• insulation of the concrete floor;
• reinforcement;
• arrangement of formwork;
• preparation of concrete mix and its pouring;
• leveling the surface and screed concrete floor.

Foundation preparation

For pouring a concrete floor, a number of preliminary works must be performed. This will primarily concern the foundation. If the floor will be poured in the apartment, then it is necessary to remove the old floor covering and tear off the old concrete screed up to the overlap. Typically, the concrete floor is about 5 cm thick and you will need to use a hammer drill to remove it. Having removed the old floor before overlap, we clean the surface of dirt and proceed to the next stage.

Important! If the screed has no obvious damage, cracks and breaks, then you can leave it and proceed to leveling the surface itself under the new floor covering.

In private houses, everything is somewhat more complicated. The fact is that the concrete floor of the first floor of a private house is often made on the ground, and will require additional labor costs.

Diagram of a concrete floor on the ground

To prepare the base, do the following:

1. We put a mark at the level of 1 m from the base of the doorway and using the level we transfer it to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

2. From the received marks we measure 1 m down, these marks will represent the level ("zero"), to which it is necessary to pour concrete.

3. To clearly see the "zero", we hammer nails along the marks and pull the cord.

4. In the room where we will make the floor, remove about 25 cm of soil.

5. We align the surface horizontally and tamp it, for this you can use a log with a board nailed to it or a special vibrating plate.

6. On the resulting plane, fill up the gravel with a layer of 5 cm, carefully pour it with water and tamp it.

7. Pour 10 cm of sand on top of the gravel, water and compact the sand as well.

Checking the surface horizon with a level

Important! At the stage of preparing the base, it is necessary with the help of a level to constantly monitor that the base is horizontal along the plane. If the project provides for communications that are hidden under the floor, then they must be laid simultaneously with filling the sand, having previously hidden them in special boxes.

8. On top of the sand, fill in about a 10 cm layer of crushed stone, tamp and sprinkle with sand to get a relatively flat surface.

Important! The size of the stone in the crushed stone should be 45-50 mm. To maintain the backfill level of all layers, you can put marks on the walls for each of them. It should also be noted that the thickness of the concrete floor itself must be at least 2 cm.

Concrete floor insulation

Waterproofing a concrete floor with a film

Installation of concrete floors on the ground requires high-quality waterproofing. If it is not fulfilled, the premises will be constantly damp, which will negatively affect interior decoration, interior items and the microclimate of the room as a whole. For this, you can use a simple polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns, waterproofing membranes or any other type of waterproofing roll materials. It should be noted that for high-quality waterproofing, the film will need to be laid in several layers, while others waterproofing materials can be stacked in one layer. We lay both the film and rolled waterproofing materials with an overlap of about 20 cm and fasten them with adhesive tape. We put the edges on the walls with an overlap, so that they reach the zero mark, and glue them with adhesive tape to the surface of the walls.

In addition to waterproofing, the concrete floor should also be insulated. Depending on the concrete floor layout, the following thermal insulation materials can be used, which must be installed at a certain stage of work:

• expanded clay;
• styrofoam;
• stone basalt wool;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polyurethane foam;
• perlite;
• chipboard (chipboard);
• thick moisture resistant plywood;
• cork covering;
• roll isolon;
• insulated linoleum or carpet.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement of concrete floor with metal mesh

Reinforcement is performed in the case when increased loads will fall on the concrete floor. For reinforcement, use a metal or plastic mesh. You can make such a sect yourself by welding it from a metal wire with a thickness of 3 mm to 5 mm. The mesh itself is laid on supports 2-3 cm high so that after pouring it will form a single whole. If a soft reinforcing mesh is used, then pins are hammered to lay it, onto which the mesh itself is subsequently pulled. Another material for reinforcing concrete floors is reinforcement rods with a thickness of 8 mm to 15 mm, which are welded together into a single mesh.

Formwork arrangement

To facilitate pouring a concrete floor in large and medium-sized rooms, formwork is equipped. For this, the room is conventionally divided into equal rectangles ("cards"). The size must be chosen so that the "card" can be filled in one, maximum two passes.

We fix the guides for the formwork with cement mortar

For the formwork itself, you can use ordinary boards or moisture resistant plywood. Now you need to lay the guides. They divide the room for the "maps", and their height will correspond to the "zero" level, to which the concrete will be poured. You can use as guides metal pipe, wooden block or board. We put the guide itself on the prepared base and fix it with a thick cement mortar.

We install the formwork between the guides and finally form the "cards". Before making the concrete floor perfectly flat and smooth, we bring the guides and the formwork to "zero" along the horizon using a level.

Important! In order to be able to get the formwork and guides out of the poured concrete, they are lubricated with a special formwork oil. This makes it quite easy to separate the guides and formwork from the concrete.

Preparation of concrete mix and its pouring

In order for the concrete floor to be strong and durable, it should be poured in one go. Therefore, if there is a financial opportunity, then you should order ready-made concrete mix at the plant. It will be delivered in a concrete mixer and immediately in a large volume. You do not have to waste time and effort on self-preparation of the solution.

If finances do not allow, then everything can be done independently. This will require an electric concrete mixer, cement, sand and crushed stone. Cement should be chosen grades M500 or M400, since the strength of concrete directly depends on this. As for the sand, it should be river sand, without impurities and clay.

To prepare concrete, you need to take 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone and 0.5 parts of water. We knead the concrete thoroughly in a concrete mixer and pour it into the "card". We level it with a shovel, make vertically piercing movements and stretch it over the entire area. In this simple way, concrete gradually compresses, and air comes out of it. For better shrinkage, a special vibrator should be used. The vibrations created by it shrink the concrete solution, compact it, thereby allowing the concrete to penetrate into all cracks and voids.

As soon as concrete milk appears on the surface, shrinkage can be stopped and go to another map, into which the partner has poured fresh mortar.

Important! Concrete should be poured starting from the opposite corner from the doors and moving towards the door.

Leveling and screed concrete floor

Leveling the surface of the concrete floor by rule

Once a few maps are filled with concrete, a portion of the concrete floor can be leveled. To do this, use a rule longer than 1 m. Set the rule on the guides and pull it towards you. Thus, the surplus concrete ends up in the still unfilled "maps", and the floor level goes to "zero". Then we remove the formwork in the aligned places, fill in the voids and continue pouring.

After completing the pouring, the concrete is allowed to stand for 3-4 days. Every day we moisten it with a small amount of water so that it reaches gradually and does not begin to crack. Then we cover it with plastic wrap and leave it until it hardens for 3-4 weeks, wetting it from time to time.

After hardening, a screed layer is applied to the concrete floor:

1. To do this, we apply a layer of liquid cement mortar or with the addition of various binders to the floor.

2. We begin to make the tie from the corner and move towards the door.

3. Upon completion, let the screed stand for 2-3 days, wetting it with water every day.

Now that the screed has hardened, you can proceed to.

Installation of concrete floors is a long and painstaking process that does not tolerate haste. To create a really high-quality and durable concrete floor, it is necessary to follow the technology of its laying, otherwise you will have to break the entire thickness of the concrete with a puncher and re-fill it. But, despite all the shortcomings and laboriousness of the arrangement, concrete floors remain the easiest to install and unpretentious in operation.

A flat floor is required before installing any modern floor covering. In order for the surface to be perfectly flat, you need to fill the floor screed.

From the article you will learn how to fill the floor screed phased technology work performed.

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Like any others renovation work filling the floor screed begins with preparatory work. First, the surface should be cleaned of dust and dirt.

Fill cracks in the floor with cement-based mortar.

It is desirable to maintain the temperature in the room in the range from 10 to 25 degrees.

To prevent cracking of the screed during thermal expansion, a damper tape is used. Most often it is made of polyethylene foam.

It also acts as a sound insulator and reduces shock loads transmitted from the floor to the walls.

IN small rooms the damper tape is attached around the perimeter of the room. For private houses and other premises where the area of \u200b\u200bthe screed is very large, it is necessary to lay the damper tape in the screed itself.

Insulation

In children's rooms, bedrooms and other rooms where you spend a lot of time, it is worth considering the option of floor insulation.

Suitable as insulation expanded polystyrene plates 5 cm thick. For the best warm and soundproofing polystyrene foam plates have a special assembly lock.

The insulation must be laid tightly to the base in a checkerboard pattern and, if necessary, secured with dowels.

Vapor barrier

For steam and waterproofing, you can use ordinary polyethylene film, the sheets of which are laid overlapping each other with an approach to the walls and fastened together with adhesive tape.

An important point during preparation is the installation of beacons. It is almost impossible to level the floor without them.

Beacons are rigid metal guides, and you can also use a profile for mounting drywall as beacons. Wood is categorically not suitable as beacons, since it absorbs water when it dries.

Lighthouses are placed parallel to each other at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule with which you will perform the screed solution.

The first lighthouse is placed at a distance of 20-30 cm from the wall in small piles of cement. The next parallel to the first, the height is adjusted using a level or a simple level.

The rest of the beacons are installed in the same way.

The solution with beacons must be allowed to harden, usually 12 hours are enough.

The second way to install beacons from a profile without mortar on dowels with self-tapping screws. To do this, mark the lines where it is necessary to install the beacons and drive in dowels with self-tapping screws with a step of about 80 cm.

The height of the self-tapping screws is adjusted using a laser level. A profile is laid on the self-tapping screws and, as the pouring is completed, they can be easily moved along the self-tapping screws.

To prevent the appearance of cracks and overall reliability, a special reinforcing mesh is installed before pouring the floor screed.

More often, a metal mesh with a mesh size of 10 or 15 cm is used for reinforcement. concrete base on the dowels.

Reinforcement mesh made of composite materials (plastic) is gaining popularity now. It does not react with moisture and therefore retains its properties longer. In addition, it is not electrically conductive and does not affect the distribution of the WiFi signal in the room.

Also, the mesh during reinforcement can be replaced with fiberglass, it is added to the screed solution. The fiberglass provides greater strength and prevents the screed from cracking when it dries.

Now you can start preparing a solution for pouring the floor screed.

Sand, cement and water are used to prepare the mixture. To mix the components, it is better to use a concrete mixer or drill with a special attachment.

Take cement brands M400 or M500.

The required proportions of mortar for the screed are 1 part of cement, 1 part of water and 4 parts of sand. First, mix the cement with the sand and then add water.

Add plasticizers to increase the strength of the mortar. They prevent the appearance of cracks in the screed.

Pouring process

Before starting the process of pouring the floor screed, draw a diagram or photograph all communications that will be filled with mortar. This will help you find them and not damage them in subsequent repairs.

Start pouring from the corner of the room that is opposite to the exit.

The solution is poured between two lighthouses so that its level is slightly higher than the lighthouses and zigzag movements are leveled using a rail (rules), removing the excess. In the unevenness, add the solution and level it again with the rule.

We repeat the process until we fill the entire floor. It is advisable to fill the floor screed in one room in one day to avoid cracks and joints.

You can walk on the floor in 1-2 days. If the beacons are installed removable, then pull them out and seal the remaining traces. But this does not mean yet that it is possible to install a finishing floor covering, since the screed must "mature".