Thermal insulation of a wooden house from the inside. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside: the choice of material and technology, stages of work Internal insulation of a wooden house

All about wall insulation from the inside wooden house: what material is better to use, the need for internal insulation, preparation and lathing of walls, how to properly insulate with mineral wool inside.

According to the masters, external insulation of a wooden house is much more preferable than internal insulation. This is due to the concept of dew point.

The formation of condensation on the walls inside the building under the insulation will go deep into them, while on the outside it will not go beyond hydro or thermal insulation and will not reach the wood.

Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house is possible only if the other options are not acceptable for any reason.

The need for internal insulation

Before deciding on such interior finishes, you should consider what they may be fraught with:

1. Violation of the natural "breathing" of the walls, which will have to be restored by creating ventilation.
2. Changes in the microclimate in rooms due to high humidity.
3. Reducing the area of \u200b\u200beach room.

If such good reasons are not a reason to change your mind, then you should look for the positive aspects of internal insulation and focus on them:

1. The ability to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands at any time of the year, devoting as much time to this as possible.
2. The beautiful appearance of the facade, especially if it is made of rounded logs, can be preserved in its original form.
3. Such work requires easier installation, which even a beginner can do.
4. Internal insulation of walls of a wooden house is several times cheaper than external insulation.

Modern materials and technologies allow the production of construction and finishing work of any complexity and quite at a decent price. Before deciding on any action, you should familiarize yourself well what materials the modern market offers and answer the question of how best to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside.

Of course, the choice of material directly depends on the qualities that the building will require from it. If this frame house, then these will be some properties, but for a felling of thick logs - others.

Today, insulation manufacturers offer the following types of materials:

All of these materials have a place to be on the modern construction market, but the choice remains with the consumer, to whom he will entrust the safety and warmth of his home.

Preparation and lathing of walls

As always, wall insulation in a wooden house from the inside (the video will tell you about this) begins with preparing the walls for work:

1. Even the most the best wood may, when shrinking, form gaps at the joints. They should be sealed with sealant or other means.
2. It is imperative to carry out biological and fire protection of the walls as a preventive measure. Since the thermal insulation is mounted for years, this will allow you to save it under any unforeseen circumstances.

   To protect the house from rotting, it is imperative when laying thermal insulation, you need to make an air gap between it and the wall. This does not apply to rounded log walls.

3. Caulking the walls is necessary if they are from a bar. For this, jute is well suited, as the cheapest material tested by many generations of builders.

In no case should the preparation of the walls be ignored, as this can affect the durability of the thermal insulation and its quality.

Owners should think about not only what can be used to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside, but also how to do it. It is imperative to make a crate. It is because of her, first of all, that the area of \u200b\u200bthe room inside decreases, but it also gives the entire structure the shape and the necessary stability.

For the lathing, a square beam with a cross section of 50 mm is used, and the step depends on the size of the insulation. It is important to install the bars so that the material fits tightly into the cells formed, if it is mineral wool, or fits exactly in size for expanded polystyrene plates.

Before starting the installation, the bars must be treated with fire-fighting and antifungal agents. All structural elements are attached to the wall with screws.

After the crate is installed in each room, you can proceed directly to the solution of the question of how to insulate the walls inside a wooden house.

Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house

Minwatoi

As a rule, mineral wool in a roll or in the form of a "mat" is used to insulate the walls from the inside. To cope with the first, you will need to work in 4 hands, while with the second it is quite possible to cope on your own.

Installation is carried out from floor to ceiling, observing a tight fit so that the seams are not visible. If there are any gaps, then they need to be repaired, and then proceed with the laying of the next layer of "cake" - a layer of vapor barrier. It is necessary rather to protect mineral wool from impact external environment premises than walls.

The vapor barrier should be overlapped with a stapler so that there are no seams, and if there are any, then they should be immediately closed with tape.

After the work done, it is necessary to mount another crate, but the opposite of the first. It is on it that the topcoat will be attached.

Styrofoam

This material can also be attached to the crate, but there is an easier way that does not take up a lot of living space. The prepared and processed wall must be coated with a layer of glue and put foam sheets on it in dense rows.

After the adhesive base is completely dry, the boards can be fixed with nails, covered with gaps and proceed with the finishing.

In conclusion, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. Internal insulation is not desirable, but acceptable if necessary.
2. There are materials suitable for these jobs.
3. Before proceeding with insulation, you need to properly prepare the walls.

If you do not have enough knowledge on the composition of the material and the correctness of its installation, you should consult with a specialist so that after years you will not regret wasted money. Yes, such a simple, at first glance, job like caulking the walls requires skills and attention, and without ventilation, the "life" of the building can be significantly reduced. All this should be thought about before insulation begins. interior walls wooden house.

Insulate a house in which there is still no interior decoration much easier than doing it in an already fully equipped and ennobled house. Take your time with any internal worksuntil every room in the house is properly insulated. Thanks to modern materials, you can do it yourself. Any room will be cozy and comfortable if you approach the matter competently and carefully read the technology of insulation of the ceiling, walls and floor.

Insulation of the ceiling of a wooden house

As a rule, they are not responsible for ceiling insulation. Many people think that it is not necessary to insulate it, but this is far from the case. The air, which people try so hard to warm in winter, rises up and goes through the ceiling to the street. Making a serious mistake - leaving the ceiling not insulated, many themselves, without knowing it, lose half the heat, they waste cash on warmth leaving unknown.

Ceiling insulation material:

• Mineral wool... This material is not expensive, but reliable and easy to install. He is one of the few insulation materials with which you can carry out work on your own, without calling for help from other workers and, most importantly, not paying them money.
• Glassine. Used as a waterproofing material used.

For structures and frame cladding you will need:

• Edged board.
• Nails, glue, polyurethane foam.
• Drywall.

Ceiling insulation tools:

• Hammer.
• Hacksaw.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Tile adhesive.

Ceiling insulation stages:

1. Of edged boards make a frame, you need to be prepared for the fact that this will reduce the height of the room. The distance between the boards of the frame should be no more than 1 meter.
2. Between the boards of the frame it is necessary glue glassinewithout leaving empty seatsin order for the material to hold well, it needs to be slightly coated with tile glue.
3. Over glassine we lay the insulation- mineral wool. Do not leave holes between the insulation. If the material does not stick, use a small amount of tile adhesive.
4. The last stage is plasterboard ceiling sheathing... Using a screwdriver, we fasten the drywall sheets to the wooden frame.

It is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the inside during the warm season and not earlier than 1 year after the construction of the house. Only in this case, the insulation will pass correctly and will last for many years.

If you decide to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, you need to know what, in this case, on the walls can condensation... This is especially the case in the northern parts of the globe, where it is very cold in winter and warm in the premises. This happens due to the effect of a temperature difference, during which the dew point moves into the layers of insulation. You can correct this situation film, which is used together with insulation, or provide good ventilation.

Required inventory

• Jigsaw, impact drill, screwdriver, mallet, tape measure, level, plumb lines, chisel, screwdriver, hammer.
• Wooden beams.
• Felt, foam or tow.
• Wall insulation material, for example, glass wool.
• Drywall.
• Putty.

Modern materials for thermal insulation of walls

• Ecowool- this material perfectly fills all the cracks and voids in the walls, at the same time preventing blowing through the walls. Does not allow moisture to penetrate inside, thus preventing the appearance of fungal infections. One of the few breathable materials.
• Glass wool- having chosen this material in the insulation, you should take care of the thermal insulation in the room, since glass wool lets in a small amount of moisture,as a result, the thermal insulation qualities deteriorate.
• Expanded polystyrene- one of the most common materials for wall insulation in wooden houses. Firstly attracts with its cheapness... Also positive qualities are elasticity and lightness. The material has heat and sound insulating qualities.

Wall insulation technology

All cracks in the wall must be repaired foam, linen felt or tow... You can choose any material that is more convenient to work with. We make a crate from wooden beam... We place a place for installing the edge elements of the crate. Special attention should be paid to this, it depends on the first bars how smoothly the next, so use a level and plumb lines for certification.

If the definition of the first bar is completed, you should fix it with screws and dowels. Should be fixed every 25-30 cm.Then we measure 1 meter from the first timber and fasten the second in exactly the same way parallel to the first, etc. until the full perimeter of the crate is formed on the entire wall. If on the way they meet window openings, they should be chipped in a circle with bars.

Each bar must be treated with antisepticsto prevent rotting and the appearance of fungi. The crate is ready. Insulation should be placed between the bars. It is not necessary to use glue in this case, the material will already hold tightly between the crate and the wall.

Making isolation... Used for vapor barrier film or polyethylene, it is superimposed over the insulation with small allowances at the edges.

The last stage is finishing. We sheathe the walls with plasterboard, we fasten it to the crate of beams, it is important that the plates fit snugly together. If cracks appear, they should be putty.

Insulation of the floor of a wooden house

Tools and materials for work:

• Hammer, drill, saw, electric jigsaw.
• Nails, tape measure, pencil, knife.
• Level, plane.
• Mineral wool.

The concrete floor in a private wooden house must be insulated. It is worth noting that the process of floor insulation is not easy, but you can spend it yourself by spending your own time and effort. Consider the method - "Raised floor", it will raise the floor by at least 6 cm, but makes the room much warmer.

Mineral wool for floor insulation

Mineral wool has been inexpensive but effective material.

Benefitsmineral wool:

• This material soundproof and heat-insulating.
• Excellent specifications and reviews.
• Duration service life.
• Low density.
• Does not deform practically under no circumstances.
• The price is always availablefor any citizens.
• Available in 2 types: flexible mats or hard slabs.

The only competitor to mineral wool is expanded polystyrene, it boasts of its practicality and ease of installation.

Insulation of a wooden house should be carried out completely, it is necessary to insulate ceiling, walls and floor.If the ceiling is insulated, but there are no walls, warm air will still leave the room through microcracks, and then all work will be in vain. On modern market you can buy a lot of insulation coatings and tools for home insulation. If you approach the matter competently, even wooden house old building will be cozy and warm in the coldest winters.

Wooden house insulation video

Correctly performed insulation of a wooden house can significantly save on heating, improve the microclimate in the house, and also extend the service life of the log house. When the question arises about the thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house, the first and most important point is the choice of the method of insulation - from the inside or outside. Most home owners choose outdoor insulation, and this choice is absolutely correct - outdoor insulation of a wooden house is more effective.

With internal insulation, not only the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe premises decreases, but also the dew point shifts inside the log house. Only the inner space is insulated, the log house itself constantly experiences changes in humidity and temperature, freezes in winter, and rots in summer. In this case, the greatest destruction of the log house occurs from the inside, closed with insulation.

External insulation protects from freezing not only the room, but also the frame itself. The dew point is shifted to the outside, and condensation occurs outside wooden structures, under a ventilated façade where moisture dries quickly.

Materials for insulating a wooden house

As insulation for wooden houses the most in demand are mats made of stone or mineral wool. It is not recommended to use polystyrene for insulating wooden structures, since it does not have vapor permeability and does not remove moisture vapor from the surface of the log house. Stone wool or mineral wool mats are different thicknesses and density. The denser the insulation, the easier it is to install and the longer it retains its performance characteristics. Soft and loose mats often slide down, disintegrate, forming dust harmful to health. Therefore, you should not save on high-quality insulation. Other advantages of stone or mineral wool include its incombustibility and unpopularity with rodents, in contrast to foam.

In addition to insulation, two layers of film are needed: one is waterproof and protects the frame from moisture penetration. It is placed on a protected wooden surface. This film must be vapor-permeable and remove moisture from the log house through the insulation to the outside environment. The second is wind and water protection, it is attached over the thermal insulation. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture coming from the external environment. Waterproofing mineral insulation is required, since when wetted, it loses its thermal insulation properties.

From the outside, the insulation is closed with any facing material with the obligatory arrangement of a ventilation gap. This cladding is called a ventilated facade. Thanks to the air circulation between the cladding and the walls, the formation of fungus and mold is excluded, moisture is successfully removed from the insulation and all conditions are created for a long service of the log house and the entire building.

Thermal insulation technology of a wooden house outside

1. The walls of a log or log house are treated with an antiseptic in two layers, paying special attention to the lower crown and corners. The ends of the logs are impregnated with an antiseptic especially carefully, since they are most susceptible to decay. Processing is best done in warm, dry weather. After processing, the walls are dried for 1-2 days.
2. A waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating is fixed to the walls with staples and a stapler. Such a film has different coverage sides: glossy should face the insulation, and porous, capable of absorbing and removing moisture from the log house - to the wall. The joints of the film are overlapped and glued with a special assembly tape. A vertical lathing from a bar is attached to the film, the thickness of the bar should correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The step of the lathing is chosen 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Stowed at the edge, they will hold perfectly without additional attachment.

   

3. Heat-insulating mats are laid on the film between the bars, slightly squeezing them. If necessary, the mats are cut with an ordinary knife. If the mats are not firm enough and do not hold well inside the frame, you can make temporary filing by securing them with slats. The mats are finally secured with anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal insulation, the next layer of mats is placed with an offset of the seams so that the upper mats overlap the joints of the lower ones. All work on laying mineral wool mats must be carried out with protective gloves and a respirator.

   

4. On top of the insulation, a hydro-windproof membrane film is attached to the brackets. The waterproofing surface must be facing outward. The joints are overlapped and glued with tape.

   

   Installation of a hydro-windproof membrane film over the insulation using a stapler

5. On top of the film, a ventilated frame is required. It is also made of bars, providing a distance between the layer of insulation, covered with wind protection, and the decorative facade of at least 5 cm.The bars are attached to the lower frame with self-tapping screws, and if the walls are not even enough, then perforated suspensions for the profile are used, which allow you to adjust the distance to the frame. For cladding with metal siding or corrugated board, you can use a drywall profile instead of a bar.
6. The cladding is fixed according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer. For cladding, you can use vinyl siding, metal profiles, block house or imitation timber. When cladding, make sure that there are no gaps through which moisture can penetrate into the facade.

   

An additional measure to protect a wooden house is insulation of the foundation and basement. It can be produced using or, as well as by spraying polyurethane foam. A ventilated facade or cladding is also mounted on top of the insulation layer decorative stone or brick.

The wooden house can rightfully be considered the pride of the owners. Wood retains heat well and provides a favorable indoor microclimate, has attractive design... However, in a number of cases, the heat-insulating properties of the material are not enough, therefore, the way out of the situation is to house insulation.

Features of the procedure

The most widespread is the external insulation of the house. However, if it is impossible to fulfill it, you have to resort to thermal insulation of the house, bath or summer house from the inside. It should be noted right away that as a result of these manipulations, the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room in most cases decreases. An exception is made only for log house, which requires only mezhventsov warming.

With internal thermal insulation of a house made of any material, the humidity in the room always increases.It is clear that this negatively affects the walls, especially wooden ones. If the insulation is incorrect, already in the first year of operation, the insulation will get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties, and the wooden surfaces will start to rot and become covered with mold.

Avoiding such phenomena allows the mandatory installation of a vapor-permeable film and the creation of a powerful ventilation system.

When insulating a wooden house from the inside, it should be remembered that in terms of its effectiveness it cannot be compared with thermal insulation from the outside. This is due to the fact that the wall insulated from the inside does not accumulate heat, therefore the heat loss is 8-15%. Moreover, cut off from a warm room by heat-insulating material, such a surface freezes faster.

Another important point is a comprehensive approach to isolation. It will be necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor and ceiling.If the house has an unheated attic and a basement, then it is more rational to pay primary and main attention to these zones when insulating.

Colossal, up to 40%, losses of heat energy fall on windows and doors. It is important not only to use modern double-glazed windows and door leaves, but also make sure of their correct and sealed installation, take care of the insulation and protection of the slopes.

A common mistake when insulating a wooden house from the inside is to keep small gaps between surfaces, usually between floors and walls, walls and partitions, walls and ceilings. Such gaps are called "cold bridges" because heat escapes through them and cold air penetrates.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

For any thermal insulation material, the most important characteristic is the thermal conductivity index. The lower it is, the less heat loss the house carries. It is measured in W / m × ° С, which means the amount of heat energy leaving through the insulation per m2.

When choosing a thermal insulation material for wooden surfaces you should pay attention to the vapor permeability indicators. The fact is that wood is itself a "breathing" material. It is able to pick up excess moisture from the air in the room, and in case of insufficient humidity, give it away.

It is not difficult to imagine that when using a non-vapor-permeable insulation, moisture from the wood will not find a way out and will remain between the insulating material and the wood. This will be disastrous for both surfaces - wet insulation has a high thermal conductivity, and the tree begins to rot.

Another important criterion for a heat insulator is moisture resistance. It is usually achieved by applying water repellents to the insulation and using a waterproofing film.

If we talk about the mezhventsovy insulation, then it is impossible to close it with a waterproofing film, therefore the water resistance of the material, along with its thermal efficiency, comes to the fore when choosing a specific product. For indoor use, choose an environmentally friendly material. It is important that it belongs to the class of non-flammable or does not support combustion, and also does not emit toxins when heated.

The biostability of a product directly affects its durability.If the insulation attracts insects or rodents, then in the process of their vital activity cracks and damage invariably appear in it, which causes the appearance of "cold bridges".

Among other paramount characteristics are ease of installation, a variety of forms of execution and options for density, thickness, affordability.

What is better to insulate?

The most common option for insulating a wooden house is mineral wool insulation. Typically, glass wool or stone wool is used to organize the thermal insulation layer. The latter is superior to glass wool in terms of technical characteristics, but most importantly, it is absolutely environmentally friendly.

Glass wool during operation emits toxic compounds, therefore it is not recommended for indoor use. In addition, it has the worst indicators of moisture resistance and fire resistance (although it has high fire resistance characteristics - the combustion temperature is 400-500 degrees). Finally, it is prone to shrinkage and a decrease in thickness (and this leads to an increase in thermal conductivity), when laying it requires the use of not only a respirator (like all mineral wool insulation), but also workwear.

In this regard, the use of stone or basalt wool is more attractive. The basis of the material is recycled rock, which is subjected to high-temperature heating (over 1300 degrees). Then, thin fibers are isolated from the semi-liquid mass. In a chaotic manner, they are formed into layers, after which they are pressed and exposed to high temperatures for a short time.

The result is a material of different hardness, produced in mats, rolls and tiles. The mats are the most durable, suitable for heavily loaded structures, including floor insulation under the screed.

For wooden walls, in most cases, tiled basalt wool is sufficient, it also fits between the logs of the wooden floor. Roll products are useful for insulating flat horizontal surfaces such as a ceiling.

Thermal insulating properties are provided by the arrangement of fibers, between which air bubbles accumulate in large volumes - the best heat insulator. The thermal conductivity coefficient of the material, depending on the density and grade, is 0.35-0.4 W / m × ° C.

In addition to high thermal insulation, the material demonstrates good sound absorption performance. The sound insulation coefficient of impact noise reaches 38 dB, air - from 40 to 60 dB.

Unlike glass wool, basalt wool is characterized by low moisture absorption, which is on average 1%. In combination with high vapor permeability - 0.03 mg / (m × h × Pa), this allows you to protect wood from decay and maintain a healthy atmosphere in the house. The melting temperature stone wool is about 1000 degrees, so it is considered a non-combustible material. In addition, thanks to the naturalness of the composition, it is possible to achieve the environmental safety of basalt insulation.

Ecowool is also suitable for wall insulation. 80% of the material is cellulose chips, treated with fire retardants and antiseptics, the rest is polymer resins, modifiers.

Ecowool refers to bulk materials, but it is also possible to spray it onto the surface using special equipment. Despite the treatment with water repellents, the material requires a waterproofing layer. In terms of its thermal efficiency, it is inferior to stone wool.

Modern material for insulation - penofol, also suitable for internal insulation. It is a roll of foamed polyethylene (provides thermal insulation effect) with a foil layer applied on one side (reflects thermal energy into the room). The presence of a metallized layer increases the strength and moisture resistance of the material, but makes it combustible (class G1).

The well-known expanded polystyrene, which has similar thermal conductivity, is not recommended for use inside a wooden house. The point is that the material “does not breathe”. The tree, as you know, is characterized by the ability to take excess moisture from the room and give it away if necessary. In the presence of a polystyrene foam layer, the tree simply cannot get rid of excess moisture, which will lead to the onset of rotting. In addition, polystyrene is characterized by toxicity and flammability; it often becomes a home for rodents.

If, nevertheless, it is impossible to refuse its use, preference should be given not to foam, but to extruded polystyrene foam. It is more environmentally friendly and has a higher fire safety.

Another durable and heat-efficient material is polyurethane foam (PPU), at first glance, is optimal insulation... The low coefficient of thermal conductivity, as well as the peculiarities of application (it is sprayed onto the surface) allow not only to reduce heat loss, but also eliminate the risk of "cold bridges". However, polyurethane foam does not "breathe" and, if in the case of using expanded polystyrene, it is possible to organize a vapor barrier between a wooden surface and a heater, then when installing PPU, creating this layer is impossible. After 5-7 years, the walls under the polyurethane foam layer will begin to rot, and removing it is a rather laborious process.

For mezhventsovy insulation, special materials are used. They can be of natural or synthetic origin.

The following types of materials are referred to organic mezhventsovy heaters, which are most often used for internal thermal insulation:

Linen insulation

For a long time, coarse, unsuitable for weaving flax fibers have been used for these purposes. Today, tape insulation is also made on plant based and is called linen felt or linen. Differs in high density, vapor permeability (optimal for rooms with high humidity).

Jute

Insulation is based on recycled bark fibers exotic tree the linden family of the same name. It is characterized by a high content of resins in the composition, which provides strength and high antibacterial properties of jute. It protects not only the space between the crowns, but also the wooden surface itself. However, a large amount of resin leads to inelasticity of the insulation. Over time, it becomes stiffer and seems to dry out, decreases in volume, which leads to the appearance of cracks. The combination of jute with flax will help to eliminate this disadvantage.

Felt

Natural wool material (sheep's wool), thanks to which unrivaled heat and sound insulation characteristics are achieved. It is processed with water repellents and compounds that prevent insects and microscopic life forms from appearing in the insulation.

Among materials of artificial origin, synthetic winterizer, polytherm (synthetic felt on a polyester basis) and PSUL are popular. It is noteworthy that the name "polytherm" originally denoted a certain material of a Finnish manufacturer. However, over time, the term has become a household name. Today, it designates both a specific manufacturer and a type of polyester insulation.

The abbreviation PSUL hides the following name - pre-compressed insulation. Its main ability is the property to contract and expand in accordance with linear changes in the dimensions of the wood without losing its technical characteristics. In terms of thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, it exceeds the same values \u200b\u200bfor natural insulation. At the same time, it is characterized by vapor permeability, biostability, environmental safety and fire resistance.

When insulating the seams between the joints, you should abandon the use of such insulation materials as tow and mineral wool due to their lower moisture resistance.

Manufacturers overview

When choosing insulation for a wooden house, it is worth giving preference to well-known, well-established brands.

• The leading position among manufacturers is occupied by the company Rockwool (Danish brand, which is also produced in 4 cities in Russia). The assortment impresses with its variety. Each section of the house has its own product line. So, for the walls, mineral wool insulation "Butts Light" and "Scandic" will be optimal. There are innovative mats for walls of different hardness within the same mat, roll and slab counterparts. The disadvantage is the high cost (on average 1500 - 6500 rubles / m2).

• Products from Germany are not inferior in quality - tile and roll mineral wool of trade marks Knauf and Ursa... To insulate a room from the inside, it is enough to select materials with a density of 10-25 kg / m3. The price is within 1200 - 3000 rubles / m2.

• Leading positions are also taken by French mineral wool insulation in plates, mats and rolls from the brand Isover... In the collections you can find both lightweight products (with a density of 10-20 kg / m3) and hard mats for frame houses (density 150-190 kg / m3). The cost is quite high - from 2000 to 4000 rubles / m2.

• Mineral wool produced in Russia, for the most part, is not inferior to Western counterparts in terms of thermal efficiency, vapor permeability and fire resistance. However, it has more affordable price... User reviews allow you to tag companies like TechnoNikol, Izovol.

All the manufacturers mentioned above produce a type of thermal insulation wool that has improved sound insulation performance.

• Among best manufacturers ecowool worth noting firms Isofloc (Germany), Ekovilla and Termex (Finland), as well as domestic companies "Equator", "Ekovata Extra" and "Nanovata".

• Finnish mezhventsovy insulation "PoliTerm"is rightfully considered one of the most optimal for operation in domestic conditions. In addition to improved thermal insulation qualities, it is distinguished by the presence of special curly elements for decorating joints, corners, transitions in the house.

• A similar mezhventsovy heat-insulating material on a polyester basis is produced by a Russian brand "Avatherm"... According to the manufacturer, due to the highest operational characteristics, the material can serve up to 100 years. Popular brands of sealants are Weatherall and Neomid - Warm Joint.

How to choose?

When choosing a material, it is important that its density corresponds to that required in a certain area of \u200b\u200bthe house. In a number of cases (absolutely in all mineral wool products) the thermal conductivity, rigidity, weight and bearing capacity of the material depend on the density.

Usually, manufacturers indicate not only the density, but also the recommended scope of use of the material.

Pay attention to the storage conditions of the products. Mineral wool insulation should be stored in sealed original packaging, even slight soaking of the product is unacceptable. Expanded polystyrene is afraid sun rays, under their influence, it begins to collapse.

Types of technology

Depending on the type of materials used, as well as the installation methods used, the following technologies for thermal insulation of a wooden house are distinguished:

Warm seam

It is used for mezhventsovy insulation of log houses, for sealing the joints between the laying of the foundation and the walls. Suitable for objects in which additional wall finishing from the inside is not provided. For insulation, special mezhventsov insulators are used, as well as silicone sealants. The advantage of this method is the lower labor intensity and cost of the process, the ability to preserve the natural beauty and vapor permeability of wooden coatings.

Insulation on the crate

It is foreseen in the presence of interior wall decoration, as well as insufficient thermal efficiency of the inter-crown insulation. Without fail, it requires vapor barrier and walls and additional ventilation of the house, fastening the frame, fixing the insulation, continuous sheathing of the frame with plasterboard and attaching the finishing material to it. Such thermal insulation is effective, and so that there is no condensation, there is a gap between the insulation and the casing for air circulation.

How to do it yourself?

• Regardless of the technology used, first of all the walls should be prepared... If you decide to do the work yourself, then you should start by cleaning them from dust, dirt, old coating. If cracks are found, they are treated with a sealant, all irregularities are cleaned. Before insulation, you should also remove all communications from the walls, check the wiring. Completes preparatory stage applying an antiseptic primer and fire retardants to the surface.
• Installation of vapor barrier film.It is attached to the entire surface with a gap of 10 cm and is fixed with construction tape. If financial possibilities permit, then instead of a vapor barrier film it is better to use a more efficient vapor barrier membrane. Let us remind you once again that vapor barrier is only one of the components of maintaining optimal humidity and a favorable microclimate in a wooden house. The second required "component" is the ventilation system.

• Creature wooden lathing , which is fixed to the walls of the house by means of brackets. The lathing is assembled from wooden logs, which are pre-treated with fire retardants and antibacterial compounds. The step of the lathing corresponds to the width of the insulation, and when using mineral wool products, it can even be 1-2 cm narrower. The most common, as already noted, insulation for wooden walls is mineral wool. Its layers are placed between the elements of the crate and fixed with dowels.
• Chipboard installationor plasterboard sheets as a facing layer. There is a small gap between the drywall sheets and the insulation layer, which provides better thermal insulation and allows the insulation to ventilate. If ecowool is used as a heat insulator, then plasterboard sheets are immediately attached to the crate, and ecowool is already poured into the gap formed. Plasterboard sheets are putty in several layers with preliminary treatment of each layer with fine sandpaper. After applying the finishing layer of putty, you can start fixing the decorative wall covering - wallpapering, painting, etc.

Today on sale you can find mineral wool slabs with different thicknesses in thickness.

The part of the slab that is attached to the wall has a looser structure, the outer surface is more dense and stiff. Such materials are glued to the wall using special mixtures. Due to the high rigidity of the outer side of the insulation, it is possible to do without installing the crate. The material is covered with glue, reinforcing fiberglass is attached to it, on top of which plaster is applied in several layers, and paint or decorative plaster is applied to it.

Wall cladding made of logs or timber looks somewhat different.

• Immediately after the construction of the building, the primary insulation of the gaps between the joints, which is also called caulking, is performed. To do this, a twisted inter-crown insulation is inserted into the gaps with a caulking knife or a spatula. When using synthetic materials, a sealant layer is applied over them.
• After a year (it is after so much time that the house gives the maximum shrinkage), repeated caulking is performed. First of all, the condition of the wooden surface itself is assessed. If chips and cracks are found, they are filled with the same elastic sealant. Next, they check the quality of the insulation of the seams between the joints. It is better if this is done not only "by eye", but also using a thermal imager.

• If points of heat loss are found, they are re-caulked. If additional insulation of the log walls is not provided, then the joints are re-treated with a sealant, now for decorative purposes. Modern lineups are characterized by wealth colors, so the user will be able to choose the mixture to match the logs. Another option to close the joints is to use jute braid, which has an attractive soft golden hue and looks harmonious with most types of wood.
• If further thermal insulation of the walls is assumed, then the steps described above are performed (priming, creating a vapor barrier layer, installing the frame and fixing the insulation, fastening drywall, finishing). Ceiling insulation also implies the creation of a crate, under which a waterproofing coating is laid, for example, glassine. Next, using self-tapping screws and special glue, the insulation is fixed to the ceiling. The next step is to cover the ceiling with plasterboard and finish cladding.

If there is a second floor, the ceiling is insulated. For interfloor floors, materials of increased rigidity are required.

If the house has an attic of an unexploited type, then bulk materials (expanded clay, ecowool) can be used to insulate it. For heated attics and attics, special basalt heaters of increased rigidity are produced. Insulation of maximum rigidity (from 150 kg / m3) is required for a flat roof.

When insulating the floor first of all, it should be leveled, laid with an overlap and with a small (up to 10 cm) "creeping" on the walls of the waterproofing membrane. After that, lay wooden logs in increments of no more than 50 cm. Mineral wool (or expanded polystyrene) is placed between the logs. The insulation layer is covered with a PVC membrane, on top of which the flooring is mounted (usually sheets of chipboard or plywood).

Experts recommend carefully calculating the thickness of the material, since the indicators of its thermal efficiency depend on this. If the insulation layer is insufficient in the house, it will not be possible to reach the optimal temperature. An unnecessarily thick layer is not only unjustified financial costs, but also an additional burden on bearing structures, as well as changing the location of the dew point.

The last term denotes the border where the moisture escaping from the room in the form of vapor turns into liquid. Ideally, this should take place outside the insulation, however, if the thickness is incorrectly calculated and the installation technology is violated, the “dew point” may end up inside the insulation.

It is also wrong to insulate a wooden house from the inside and outside. The surface of the wood is between 2 vapor barrier layers, which disrupts the natural ventilation of the material and leads to the onset of putrefactive processes.

Professionals strongly recommend using external insulation as more effective and correct for the operation of a wooden house. Insulation from the inside is an extreme measure. Thermal insulation work should be carried out in the warm season, in dry weather, since during this period the walls are as dry as possible. If you plan to insulate a newly built house, then you should wait a year. This is due to the fact that wooden objects shrink.

When installing the battens, make sure that its pitch matches the dimensions of not only the insulation, but also the sheets of drywall. Otherwise, additional slats will have to be stuffed - an extra load on the frame and an increase in labor intensity. The best option - select sheets of insulation and drywall of similar dimensions.

Despite the cheapness of foam, as well as its low heat transfer, refuse to insulate wooden walls with this material.

• It has a low vapor permeability, which will lead to decay of the walls, an increase in humidity in the house, the appearance of condensation on the walls and mold on the finishing material.
• It emits styrene that is hazardous to health, and therefore in some European countries there is a ban on the use of expanded polystyrene for interior decoration.
• it combustible materialwhich releases toxins when the temperature rises. When using foam in a wooden structure, you can create a real fire trap.

The sealant used for inter-crown insulation must be elastic and capable of shrinking and expanding during the shrinkage and thermal expansion of the wood. For use inside the house, an acrylic-based composition will be optimal. If you need a more durable sealant, then acrylic with the addition of polyurethane foam is suitable. An important point is that such a sealant cannot act as an independent insulation.

Does your wooden house require insulation? But you don't know how to do it right? Then the following information will definitely come in handy. It's about. Although I would like to note that this method is not used as often as outdoor installation of insulation. Why is this method considered less popular?

Modern thermal insulation materials have high technical characteristics: light weight, flexibility, excellent indoor climate control.

There are several good reasons: first, internal option insulation slightly reduces living space; secondly, by performing the installation of insulation on your own, due to inexperience, you can get a violation of the microclimate due to high humidity. That is why it is best if the insulation of a wooden house from the inside takes place after consultation with specialists or professional builders. They will tell you how to insulate a wooden house inside correctly, quickly and correctly.

Please note that the method of internal insulation is fundamentally different from the installation of insulation outside the house.

Causes of a cold snap in the house and the procedure for work on thermal insulation

Usually houses built of wood are particularly comfortable: they are cool in summer and warm in winter. Most often, a cold snap in a wooden house can be caused by 2 main reasons. It:

• poor-quality or improperly mounted outer thermal insulation layer;
• the appearance of cracks in the walls of the house as a result of improper installation, or drying out.

After the reasons for the cold in a wooden house have become clear, you can proceed to familiarize yourself with the list of upcoming works aimed at its internal insulation.

This process will take place in several stages:

1. First you will need to prepare the surfaces.
2. Then seal up all the gaps.
3. Equip a vapor barrier layer.
4. Mount the crate.
5. Install a layer of thermal insulation.
6. Equip the ventilation system.
7. Next comes the turn of finishing work.

And now about all these stages in more detail.

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Surface preparation works for insulation

The first stage of insulation work involves preliminary preparation of surfaces.

When working on laying heat-insulating material, the respiratory and eye organs should be protected from the ingress of fine dust and other substances.

First, clean all surfaces of the walls from dirt and dust. And then you can proceed to the careful processing of wooden walls using special compositionprotecting the tree from insect reproduction. It is very good if the composition you choose will additionally perform a function that prevents the process of decay of wooden surfaces, and protect it not only from moisture, but also from the danger of fire.

And yet, at the same stage, you need to take care of safety electrical wiring... If there is a variant of its surface location, then it must be separated from the wall. Close up the cracks

After completing all the above procedures, you can proceed to the second stage of insulation. It provides for the implementation of work to eliminate the existing cracks. They must be carefully caulked. Many people know that after a house from a bar is built, it is necessary to carry out an additional procedure to eliminate cracks, after about 1 year.

Naturally, this is done in the event that the house remained uninhabited. During the operation of the premises, re-caulking of the cracks can be carried out later, after about 3 years. What is the best way to seal the cracks? Usually, a material such as jute fiber is used for these purposes.

Of the tools, you will need a chisel, preferably wide and rather thin. For cracks of an especially large size, tape tow is used, which is twisted in the form of a roller before being placed in the gap. It is necessary to fill the slots until the material used is no longer placed in them.

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Vapor barrier layer: nuances

Cork insulation retains heat very well and lends itself well to processing.

The presence of a vapor barrier in a wooden house is very important, since as a result of insulation, the wall is blocked between 2 heat-insulating layers. In this case, the degree of humidity in the room increases, since the walls arranged in this way are not able to breathe. What to do in this case? A high-quality ventilation system saves, only with its help is it possible effective fight with moisture. If you do not allow dampness on the walls, then you will avoid the occurrence of the process of rotting wood.

Simply put, you need to equip a high-quality vapor barrier. It is performed using a special film, which is placed on the wall surface with its rough side towards the wooden surface.

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Lathing and insulation layer

You can mount the lathing layer on the walls using a wooden beam. It is also allowed to use metal profile, but only in the case of subsequent sheathing with moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboards.

Wall insulation scheme: 1 - outer sheathing (lining); 2 - polyethylene; 3 - OSB board; 4, 6 - vapor barrier layer; 5 - thermal insulation layer (mineral wool); 7 - ventilation gap; 8 - inner lining.

In order for the corners of the battens to be even and correct, it is necessary to take care of the preparation of the corner posts in advance. To do this, measure the height of the room and cut the bar in accordance with this value. The section of the timber used for these purposes should be 50 × 100 mm.

As a result of these manipulations, you should get a stand that resembles the letter "G" in its outline. Each corner of the room should be equipped with such a rack. When mounting, do not forget to check that they are vertical.

Now you can start installing vertical bars with a step of about 0.5 m. The bar should have a cross section of 50 × 50 mm. Do not forget that all wooden battens must be pre-treated protective compound against decay and fire.

After the crate is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the thermal insulation layer. For these purposes, a material such as mineral wool is well suited. After you have unrolled the roll of material, you need to cut it in accordance with the desired height. And the width of the heat-insulating layer should be 2 cm greater than the distance available between two vertical bars.

Having placed a strip of heat-insulating layer between the bars, you need to fix it to the wall with anchors. Note that anchors are used with large round caps. The second layer of insulation is fixed to the surface of the bars. The vapor barrier, or rather the film used for its device, will help to avoid dampness, and still prevent small particles of mineral wool from getting into the air. The vapor barrier layer is attached to the bars using a construction stapler.