Effective methods of dealing with whitefly on tomatoes in a greenhouse. How to get rid of a whitefly in a greenhouse and a vegetable garden on tomatoes How to process tomato seedlings from a whitefly

Whitefly - a pest garden plants, can affect both adult specimens and young seedlings. This harmful little butterfly feeds on their juice. Outwardly, the insect looks like but much smaller. An adult is only 2 mm in length, loves to settle in greenhouses (it is not for nothing that it is called a greenhouse whitefly), but it can also live on indoor plants. This tiny butterfly is outwardly difficult to notice; it lives on the underside of the leaf. But as soon as you touch the plant, the insects immediately fly away,

it looks like a dusty cloud.

Signs of plant damage

Let's figure out in order how to deal with whiteflies. To understand this, you need to know what the affected plant looks like. As mentioned above, if you slightly touch a leaf, a cloud of a large number of very small butterflies appears around it. On the damaged leaves, a sticky substance forms on the underside, in the environment of which fungal diseases develop very quickly. The surface of the leaves first turns white and then turns black. Thus, the whitefly does double harm - it sucks the juices from the plant and contributes to its defeat by fungal diseases. The plant is doomed to death if urgent measures are not taken.

Control measures

How to deal with a whitefly butterfly if it has already started up on an adult plant? The most reliable method of dealing with it is insecticide treatment. There are many drugs in stores, you can choose any of them

them: "Fosbecid", "Fufafon", "Mospilan", "Pegasus", "Aktellik", "Verticillin-J" or any other. How to deal with whiteflies is described in detail in the instructions for these drugs. The specified processing doses should be strictly adhered to and not exceeded. But you can use these chemicals only before the flowering of plants or, in extreme cases, during it. If the fruits have already set, then it is better not to use chemistry, but to resort to proven "grandmother's" methods. Popular wisdom knows how to deal with whiteflies. Often gardeners use glue traps... You can also use regular fly ribbons, or you can make them yourself. To do this, take small plywood, paint them in a bright color (this attracts a pest) and grease with some kind of sticky substance, such as honey or castor oil. Such homemade traps you need to rinse and smear again after a few days. How to deal with whiteflies at home, if the pest is wound up on flowers, folk wisdom will also tell you. For indoor flowers, more safe means: soap solution (diluted in water in a ratio of 1: 6), infusion of yarrow (80 g of herbs per 1 liter of hot boiling water, insist for a day) or infusion of garlic (1 tbsp. l. peeled and chopped garlic pour 1 liter of hot boiling water, leave for 24 hours ). These infusions and solutions are wiped or sprayed with plant leaves. If a whitefly appears on seedlings, how to fight? Here, both insecticides and infusions prepared by yourself are suitable.

Where does the pest come from?

Very often we ourselves bring a whitefly into our house or greenhouse together with a purchased one.In order to prevent this harmful butterfly from appearing in your greenhouse or greenhouse next year, in areas where the winters are cold, nothing needs to be done, all the larvae will freeze over the winter. And if the winters are not cold, change the soil regularly and monitor its quality.

A white midge attacked tomato and pepper seedlings

Sometimes you can observe how a white midge, which looks like a living mold, attacks tomato and pepper seedlings - this is a greenhouse, greenhouse whitefly. This pest is very resistant to spraying with all sorts of broths, and sometimes chemicals. An adult whitefly is 1-1.5mm in size.

Its body is almost completely covered by two pairs of white wings. When these insects cling to the plant, it seems as if the leaves are indeed covered with mold. The bulk of the females of this pest is located on the underside of the leaves.

It is there that the females lay 85-130 eggs in 30 days. The greenhouse whitefly often settles on indoor plants, gets from them and on the seedlings of tomato and pepper, which we grow on windowsills. Whitefly can get on seedlings from plant debris, from the soil, as well as from the seedlings themselves, if you purchased them in a greenhouse. As a result of its vital activity, the underside of the leaves is covered with white larvae, the leaves become sticky, black spots appear in places from soot How to protect seedlings from whitefly? It is necessary to carry out an autumn preventive spraying of plants with special pesticides.

The first spraying is carried out after harvesting, and the second after the removal of diseased plants. Treatment is carried out with a 0.3% karbofos emulsion. If you have a well-sealed greenhouse, then instead of re-spraying, you can fumigate with sulfur dioxide at a temperature maintained in the greenhouse of +18 - +20 degrees.

To do this, you need to burn lump sulfur (50g / m3) and keep the greenhouse closed for 1-2 days. It is also worth carrying out a one-time disinfection of the greenhouse with sulfur dioxide - burn 100 g of sulfur for each cubic meter greenhouses.It is necessary to destroy weeds in the greenhouse and in a nearby area, abandon catch crops, observe the distance between planted vegetables - do not plant vegetables close to the greenhouse (no closer than 2-4 m). Greenhouses with vegetables should be removed from greenhouses with flowers at a distance of at least 10 m. Fitoverm also helps to cope with whitefly.

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Seedling disease - whitefly

Often, seedlings of vegetables and flowers are affected by pests such as whiteflies. These are small insects with a small yellowish body, up to 1 mm long and two pairs of wings, the surface of which is covered with white bloom.

By appearance whitefly looks like a moth. When plants are damaged by such a pest, on the back of the leaf plate you can see insect eggs, which are laid in rings of 10-20 pieces each. Fertility of female whiteflies is quite high: from 130 to 280 eggs. The larvae are light yellow in color.

The body is covered with short hairs, the eyes are orange-red. The larvae and adults of the whitefly feed on the sap they get from cuttings, leaves and stems of plants. As a result, the parts affected by the pest dry out and then die off. The sooty fungus that appears on the sweet secretions of the whitefly causes disruption of the photosynthesis process and a decrease in the immunity of garden and flower crops.

Signs of defeat. Seeing whiteflies on plants is not difficult. Most often, insects settle on the back of the leaves, where they form fairly extensive colonies. Signs such as wilting, drying and curling of leaves, as well as the formation of yellowish spots with indistinct outlines on the leaf plates, indicate the defeat of seedlings by whitefly.

In addition, pests release a sugary substance that is also easily seen on damaged plant parts. Preventive measures.

In most cases, the cause of the appearance of a whitefly is a high temperature in a closed ground structure and a decrease in the level of air humidity. For timely detection of the pest, the cultivated crops should be constantly inspected.

Ways to fight. The easiest way to deal with adult whiteflies is by hanging sticky tapes. It is best if the tape is yellow. Larvae and eggs are removed by rinsing the aerial parts of the plants with soapy water.

After that, the stems are wrapped in a plastic bag and left for 2-3 days. It is recommended to collect adult insects in the early morning hours, when the insects are inactive. Some gardeners collect insects with a vacuum cleaner. The most effective means of controlling insect pests (including whitefly) are insecticides.

In particular, you can use "Fufanon", "Decis", "Intavir" or "Actellik". It is advisable to use and micro-biological drugs, among which are "Verticillin". For the destruction of whiteflies, pyrethroid drugs are often chosen: "Arrivo", "Tsipermetrin", "Talstar", "Fury" and others. Folk means of pest control.

Fighting a whitefly that has settled on seedlings is not only possible chemical methods, but also folk remedies. It is best to use an infusion made from garlic. To do this, the cloves (2/3 cup) must be cleaned, pounded and filled with warm water (1l). Pour the mixture into a glass dish, cork and then stand for 5 days.

The prepared infusion is diluted with clean water at the rate of 1 teaspoon of the concentrate per 1 liter of liquid and sprayed with the plant affected by the insect. To collect adult whiteflies, homemade traps are often used. To make them, you need to take a yellow-painted sheet of hardboard or plywood and apply a layer of petroleum jelly, castor oil or a mixture of rosin and honey to the surface.

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Whitefly diet

The whitefly's favorite diet primarily includes: fuchsia, begonia, balsam, passionflower, pelargonium, lanthanum. In the absence of a favorite, the whitefly is capable of attacking most indoor plants... In greenhouse and greenhouse conditions, it prefers tomatoes and cucumbers, but does not disdain other plants.

Prevention

Whitefly appears where high temperature is combined with high humidity (greenhouses, greenhouses - first of all), there is not enough ventilation, plants are placed too closely. For this reason, first of all, it is necessary to provide the plant with an optimal moisture-temperature regime and ventilation. Also, all the preparations that strengthen the plant have a preventive effect - a healthy strong plant with less losses will tolerate the invasion of the whitefly, provided that you still defeat it!

External signs of defeat

Whiteflies usually hide on the underside of leaves. On the upper side of the underlying leaves, a shiny bloom (honeydew, or honeydew) appears - the excrement of insects, on which sooty mushrooms ("black") subsequently develop, due to which the leaf surface becomes first white and then black. It is sooty mushrooms that can strongly harm the plant, not directly the whitefly. Sometimes because of them, the growth of shoots stops.

Control measures

Chemicals:

• Actellic. Dissolve the ampoule in 1 liter of water and treat it during the appearance of the pest. Solution consumption up to 2 liters per 10 sq.m. No more than 4 treatments. The waiting period is 3 days. Verticillin Zh - 25 ml per 1 liter of water. Double spraying at intervals of 7-10 days. Confidor (20% RBC) 0.1 ml per liter of water. Single spraying. Mospilan (20% RP) - 0.05-0.06 g. Single spraying Pegasus (25% EC) - 2 ml per 1 liter of water. Spraying twice with an interval of 7 days. Fufanon (57% EC) - 1.2-1.5 ml. Single spraying. Phosbecid Dilute 5 ml per 5 liters of water, consumption - 100 sq. m.

Glue traps can be used to catch adults. To do this, take pieces of plywood or hardboard, paint it yellow or white color and grease them with petroleum jelly, rosin with honey or castor oil.

Insects, attracted by the bright yellow or white (preferably yellow) color, sit on these lures and stick. When there are a lot of them on a piece of plywood, it is wiped and again greased with the same solution. You can also use glue fly traps.

Folk remedies

Whiteflies don't like dropping temperatures, so you can move the plant to a cooler room. Since whiteflies fly, they can be caught on sticky tapes (sold in fly-catching shops) You can use folk remedies, such as herbal infusions against insects, which are sprayed on plants.

Infusion of garlic is comparatively effective. Chopped cloves of garlic (150-170 g) pour 1 liter of water and leave in a tightly sealed container for five days. For spraying, 6 g of concentrate diluted in 1 liter of water is enough.

Keep in mind that folk remedies can help if there are not too many pests.Try rinsing the plant with clean water - whiteflies are well washed off with water, after this procedure it is necessary to loosen the top layer of soil in the pot.

Pests on seedlings - how to recognize and fight

If measures are not taken in time, aphids, whiteflies, thrips and spider mites can destroy young seedlings. How to recognize pests and what to do if they attacked plants? You can determine who exactly is harmful to your seedlings by the characteristic features that distinguish one or another pest.

Aphid

Insects are very voracious and reproduce quickly. You can understand that aphids have settled on plants by reshaping and leaf colors: they curl up and discolor... Also on the leaves of seedlings appears "honeydew" - sweet sticky secretions of aphids, which are a favorable breeding ground for pathogenic fungi. Regular inspection of the seedlings, as well as the creation of optimal growing conditions, will help prevent the appearance of aphids:

• maintaining the daytime temperature at 20-25 ° С, and nighttime - 16-20 ° С; regular watering with settled water at room temperature; arrangement of plants so that their leaves do not touch each other.

If aphids still appear on the seedlings, but there are not many of them, the insects can be collected by hand, and the plants themselves can be sprayed with a solution of laundry soap (25-30 g per 1 liter of water). If there are a lot of aphids, the plants should be treated with insecticides - Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmiks, Fitoverm, etc. (according to the instructions).

Thrips

Outwardly, these insects resemble miniature (about 1 mm) butterflies. They suck the sap from plants, leaving a "bite" in place small silvery spots.

Over time, these spots grow, merge and cover the entire leaf. You can cope with thrips with the help of chemical insecticides - Fitoverma, Vermitika, Akarina, etc. And you will need to carry out at least 3 spraying with an interval of 7-10 days. Tomato leaves damaged by thrips in the future, prevent the appearance of the pest, thoroughly disinfect the containers and substrate before sowing seeds for seedlings. Also, strictly observe the requirements of plants for growing conditions.

Whitefly

This gluttonous pest feeds on the sap of seedlings, not disdaining either leaves, stems or cuttings of plants. Sucking the juice from the leaves, the larvae and adults of the whitefly secrete sticky enzymes, which are a favorable environment for the development of pathogenic fungi.

Plant parts damaged by "seedling moth" (also called whitefly) dry up and die offAs a rule, the whitefly appears in rooms with high temperatures and low air humidity. If this is not allowed - regularly ventilate the room, place wide containers of water near the plants to increase air humidity - the appearance of the whitefly can be avoided. Also, do not forget to periodically examine the seedlings.

When a pest appears, you can spray it with an infusion of garlic or hang sticky yellow tapes throughout the room. To prepare the infusion, pass 2 tbsp through a meat grinder. peeled cloves of garlic, transfer the resulting mass to glass jar, pour 1 liter of water and cover. After 5 days, the infusion will be ready. To spray seedlings, dilute 1 tsp. the resulting infusion in 1 liter of water.

Spider mite

The spider mite is practically invisible to the human eye. It is possible to understand that the pest has settled on the seedlings only when it the leaves will start to fade and turn yellow, and on their back will appear small black dots.

With severe damage to plants, leaves appear chlorotic spots with punctate necrosiswhich are clearly visible spider web.As in the previous cases, avoid mass destruction spider mite seedlings can be done by regularly examining the plants and creating optimal growing conditions for them. If you notice on the underside of the leaves single black spots, try spraying the plants with water regularly.

If the pest has managed to seriously "spoil" the seedlings, use insecticides - Fufanon, Chemix, Iskra M, Aktellik, Fitoverm, etc. Fitoverm is an insecticide of natural origin, which is used to combat piercing-sucking pests. The concentration of the drug solution is calculated based on which pest it is used against.

To protect seedlings from aphids, 8-12 ml of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water, 2 ml from spider mites, and 20 ml from thrips. The duration of the protective action of Fitoverm is about 5 days, therefore, repeated treatments (if necessary) are carried out no later than after 7-8 days. It is possible to avoid the appearance of most pests on seedlings if optimal conditions are created for the plants.

Remember this, so as not to resort to the use of chemicals in the future. Well, if you still have to use insecticides, do not forget about precautions.

Diseases of tomatoes, on tomatoes: late blight, tobacco mosaic, whitefly

Tomato bushes are persistent and tenacious, they do not give up easily to infections or addictive insects. But even poisonous leaves and stems of plants do not frighten pests.

What are the most dangerous threats to tomatoes? How can you fight them?

Phytophthora on tomatoes, tomatoes

All green parts of the plant in open ground covered brown spots without clear boundaries and forms. They cover the bushes like an inevitable fire. Leaves become wet if wet or dry out. The stems may break off.

Only ripe fruits are saved, but green and brown ones have no chance to survive.

When late blight appears. Black-brown tomato plague - late blight is getting younger from year to year - it begins to kill plants in July. And any geographic space is submissive to her.

The causative agent is a mushroom. It affects tomatoes and potatoes, but does not touch other nightshade plants - peppers and eggplants.

Control measures for late blight on tomatoes

What are the main methods of dealing with late blight. Not a single drug helps one hundred percent of it. However, timely spraying with fungicides curbs the attack of the disease. The first treatment should be preventive: profit gold (6 g per 10 l of water).

The second is carried out after 2-3 weeks at a dose of 15 g per 10 liters of water of both the one and the other medicine.

Safe or folk remedies. Usually, folk remedies are used against late blight. But they don't help much.

- Infusion of garlic: take 100 g of slices, grind, pour 2 liters of water, cover, insist for half an hour and spray the tomatoes with this gruel. - A yeast solution is also used: take 100 g of yeast per 10 l of water.

If the disease has just begun, a solution of 5% iodine (10 ml per 10 liters of water) is effective. After 3 days, the "shower" is repeated. The solution is stored in closed form unlimited time in a dark place, and it can be used to spray other plants against all fungal diseases.

Improve the resistance of tomatoes you can top dressing every 10 days, alternating a solution of a mullein 1:10 with an ash infusion (1 glass per 10 liters of water). If leaves curl, exclude superphosphate from dressings and increase the proportion of potassium sulfate and urea.

And flowering and fruiting are delayed - they use nitrogen fertilizing. When the flowers fall, the bushes are sprayed with a solution boric acid (1 g per 1 l of water), and when the ovaries fall off, they are fed with a mullein solution (1:10), adding to it on a bucket matchbox ammonium nitrate or urea.

Microbiological preparations are very goodbased on natural bacteria. Before planting, the seedlings are sprayed with a solution of phytosporin-M or alirin-B, or they are watered over the soil.

A week later, the same medicine is again well cultivated around the bushes, and then the plants themselves. The procedure is repeated every 2-3 weeks.

On tomatoes, tomatoes, tobacco mosaic virus

The tobacco mosaic virus is known all over the world. Smokers play a significant role in the spread. They throw cigarettes, wherever they get, do not wash their hands after smoke breaks.

The virus causes light and dark green spots in the form of "inlay" on the leaves or dark swellings. Gray-brown areas of dead pulp appear inside the fruit. When the tobacco mosaic virus appears.

The infection can be noticed very early, already in depressed seedlings, as it persists in the seeds. The summer residents themselves carry the virus when pinching. The mosaic is especially visible in the summer during the milky ripeness of the fruit.

Often the leaves on the bushes become wrinkled or narrow, like a fern.

Tobacco mosaic virus control measures

Reliable measures to combat the tobacco mosaic virus. Before sowing, the seeds are kept in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. Plants are watered with it from a young age 2-3 times at three-week intervals.

All seedlings with signs of a mosaic are burned.

Safe measures to combat the tobacco mosaic virus. Most the best way - prevention. Seeds are bought only from responsible companies.

Do not plant tomatoes after peppers, eggplants, potatoes. Steam sterilize soil and seedling pots, as well as all tools that touched the plants. Wash hands with soap before work. Tomatoes are suitable only in clean clothes and shoes.

Quit smoking urgently! Or do it off-site. Choose tomatoes that are virus resistant tobacco mosaic.

Of the new products, these are mainly F1 hybrids (Azov, Axioma, Almaz, Barcelona, \u200b\u200bBogota, Buran, Bourgeois, Glamor, Caprice, Magnum M, Lezginka, Ostozhenka, Rally, Pink spam, Rosaliza, Sirtaki, Fat neighbor, Yakimanka) and the Tsarevich variety ...

Whitefly on tomatoes, tomatoes

Whiteflies are small white flies, the most dangerous pest in tomatoes. They are not found outdoors, but in winter greenhouses they are sometimes completely covered with tomato leaves.

When whitefly appears on tomatoes, tomatoes. Indoors, whiteflies can live almost all year round, but are especially numerous in the second half of summer and autumn. They hide from the underside of the leaves and suck the sap from the plants like aphids.

In addition, sooty fungi often settle on the sticky sugary secretions of the insect, which leave a black coating. It is called "rabble". Because of whiteflies, tomatoes can ripen unevenly and turn white from the inside.

Whitefly control measures and methods

Reliable ways to combat whitefly. The most effective drugs are Commodore (1.5 g per 10 L of water) and Iskra-M from whitefly caterpillars (5 ml - 1 ampoule - per 10 L of water). They are sprayed with plants after harvest, if they want to take them to the city.

Safe ways to deal with whitefly. The greenhouse is aired, the lower parts of the leaves are thoroughly washed with clean water, where the whitefly accumulates in large quantities. Apply yellow baits to which insects stick.

The biological product boverin also helps. Back to the table of contents - Gardening

How to deal with whitefly?

21.03.2014 |

The whitefly butterfly brings a lot of trouble: due to the constant laying of the larvae, the leaves on the plants become like a colander, they get sick and, ultimately, die. Since each larva is covered with a waxy substance on top, chemical aerosols do not affect it in any way, the whitefly is removed only by mechanical methods.

For example, in the room will fit fly trap in the form of sticky tape or wiping with a damp cloth the leaves of indoor plants. It's another matter when a whitefly appeared in the garden: a one-time treatment will not work, you need to prevent egg laying on the leaves and carry out prevention every week.

Summer residents watering the garden with a hose have an advantage in this sense, since the larvae are not deposited on wet leaves, and this is a huge plus in the fight against insects that multiply in thousands. How can a whitefly harm?

The pest of gardens and vegetable gardens is a small insect - the whitefly butterfly. It is translucent, with a wing length of about 3 mm, in some way it resembles a moth. It multiplies very quickly, in one day it can lay up to 280 eggs, which after 48 hours become full-fledged individuals and begin to eat the leaves of borage and tomatoes, which may cause the plant to die.

How to deal with whitefly at home?

As a solution for washing, we use yarrow, which is brewed as follows: 1 liter. boiling water needs 80 gr. dry herbs in a thermos for about 2 hours. An alternative is soapy water: 1 part laundry soap to 6 parts water.

If a whitefly starts up in the garden ...How to deal with whitefly in a greenhouse or on open area vegetable garden? Among insecticides are used: "Aktara", "Akarin", and "Fosbecid", the method of diluting them with water is indicated on the package.

You need to spray each bush, some specimens can be dipped directly into the bucket. Remember that a more concentrated dose of solution is used for irrigation than for spraying. It has been noted that the medicine against scabies (emulsion "Benzyl Benzoate") is the most effective remedy to kill the whitefly butterfly.

It is diluted with water in a ratio of 30 ml to 1 liter. water and spray the bushes. Against whitefly on tomatoes that grow in a greenhouse, there are many ways to fight without damaging the tomato crop. A preventive measure is to hang the vents with gauze.

Hang on the ceiling sticky traps... But if an invasion occurs, each leaf of the tomato must be treated with an insecticide designed specifically for plants growing in greenhouse conditions.

If the procedure is carried out within a month (once every three days), then it will not be difficult to defeat the whitefly. Sometimes butterflies are frightened off even by the smell, so they try to fly away from the processing site.

Interestingly, whiteflies get used to commonly used drugs, so it is best to alternate between them. experienced summer residents it is advised to use a solution of laundry soap as a spraying, but it is better if you brush each leaf of a tomato with a solution - this will noticeably reduce the insect population. At the slightest appearance of whiteflies, this procedure should be carried out daily, especially during the period when the ovaries are actively growing. Remember that the yield of tomatoes fully depends on the quality of the flowers.

Together with the article "How to deal with a whitefly?" also read.

This small butterfly can cause serious harm to the tomato grown in the greenhouse.

The whitefly is a small moth that looks like a moth.

• The length reaches 3 mm.
• The wings and body are painted in a whitish shade, white pollen is "scattered" on the surface, hence the name.
• The nutrition of an adult and its larvae is plant sap, which very soon leads the plant to death.
• First, the leaves lose their color - they become white, then gradually the whole plant dries up, the bush dies.

Invasion of the pest

Usually, a whitefly invasion can be expected in the summer, when the temperature is at least twenty degrees, but there are frequent rains.

The whitefly appears when a high enough temperature is combined with high humidity.

The midge feels comfortable in the so-called greenhouse - when at high temperature there is a fairly high level of humidity. If the temperature is below ten degrees, the adult moth dies, but the eggs remain viable, they can comfortably overwinter during the hibernation stage.

Most suitable conditions regardless of the season - greenhouses, greenhouses, hotbeds.

Provoking factors

Dense plantings impair ventilation, increase humidity and ultimately create optimal conditions for whitefly development.

The main provocateur is the gardener, that is, those conditions that, through ignorance or mistake, a person creates.

Provoking moments:

• planting density;
• lack of ventilation;
• spraying at high humidity;
• improper use of fertilizers;
• lack of biostimulants.

Many gardeners believe that the greenhouse protects the crop from all misfortunes, especially from insects, so they often plant seedlings too close to each other. However, this opinion is fundamentally wrong, since the whitefly prefers closed spaces.

How to save a greenhouse from a whitefly

The greenhouse must certainly have properly equipped ventilation.

The humidity level in the greenhouse is best controlled with an automatic vent opener.

Combining two factors - the lack of ventilation and the density of plantings provoke not only the appearance of insects, but also the occurrence of other diseases, since the bushes do not receive fresh air, a greenhouse effect arises. If it rains on the street, the humidity is high, it means that the humidity inside the structure also rises, thus, the plant receives a sufficient amount of moisture, and there is no need to spray the bushes additionally.

It is advisable to make the window in the greenhouse large in order to be able to accurately adjust.

On one leaf, you can immediately see both butterflies and whitefly larvae.

Among other things, the symptoms of the lesion will be visible on the plant:

• yellowness on the leaves;
• drying out of leaf plates;
• the presence of larvae on the lower surface;
• the presence of a sticky coating;
• spots.

Primary signs appear on the sheets

The leaf plates begin to turn yellow, gradually curl, dry out, crumble. If a leaf or a thick stem is lifted, many translucent larvae can be seen.

Females lay eggs, from which larvae appear in a week, and nymphs after another 14 days.

Control methods

The whitefly feeds on the sap from the plant, causing the leaves to dry out.

There are mechanical, biological, chemical methods. Folk methods are often used.

Mechanical methods

1. Take one part of soap and six parts of water, prepare a soap solution.
2. In this solution, a tissue is moistened with which all parts of the culture are washed.

A common soap solution is the most affordable whitefly treatment.

Making traps

A simple trap of yellow paper coated with a sticky mass.

Mechanical assistance also consists in preparing the traps.

It is considered that adult butterflies flock to yellowso many farmers use this fact to catch pests.

1. To do this, plywood, cardboard or other strong material is painted in a yellow tint.
2. Honey, castor oil or petroleum jelly is applied to the surface of the trap.
3. The traps are attached next to the greenhouse.

Ready-made designs can be purchased at gardening stores.

Whitefly Night Trap

To make a trap you will need:

• plastic box;
• foil;
• water tray;
• cartridge;
• orange incandescent lamp;
• cord.

A night trap is crafted from scrap material.

The work progress is very simple and clear from the photo:

We turn on the light bulb at night, and in the morning we see the result:

Biological methods

As biological methods of fighting whitefly, it is meant to attract insects - enemies of moths, which do not pose a danger to either tomatoes or people.

Folk ways

Experienced gardeners are sure that the infusion of garlic scares the whitefly.

Of folk remedies use garlic.

1. One liter of water, one hundred and fifty grams of chopped garlic, insist for a week.
2. The culture is sprayed with garlic liquid at intervals of four or five days, until the pest is completely destroyed.

But they also cook infusion of yarrow ... Grind the grass, measure one hundred grams, pour boiling water (1 l), insist for a day. The tomatoes are sprayed several times.

It is allowed to apply dandelion infusion ... One hundred grams of grass is steamed with one liter of boiling water, left for a day.

It is necessary to separately indicate that folk remedies are effective in the initial stage of damage, that is, as long as there is not so much pest, otherwise a dubious effect will turn out.

Chemicals

Chemicals mainly used in the form of purchased ready-made complexes.

Chemical control methods are the most effective.

There is an opinion that it is possible to apply ordinary dichlorvos , however, this remedy is too toxic primarily for the fruit, hurting a person .

• Use Verticillin , which is dissolved in one liter of liquid, is treated every ten days until the whitefly disappears completely.
• Pegasus is recommended - processed twice with an interval of twelve days.
• Application is allowed Confidora - means of prolonged action, sprayed once.
• Actellic available in ampoules that are diluted in water. The procedure is carried out twice.
• It is recommended to use tobacco dust .

Important: if the farmer uses chemicals, the dosage indicated on the package must be strictly observed... Among other things, the required neutralization interval after spraying should be maintained.

Prevention

Preventive action is to buy healthy planting material.

1. Every year the greenhouse is disinfected with a solution copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.
2. The earth is dug up, weeds and plant residues are removed.
3. Mandatory measure - complete ventilation of the structure .
4. If ventilation has not been installed inside, after the end of the season, while the room is empty, it is imperative to provide an opportunity for ventilation.

Greenhouse tomatoes most often suffer from the pest of various insects. A frequent visitor to tomato beds is the whitefly, which affects the lion's share of plantings with its harmful effects.

Insect description

Whitefly is a microscopic flying insect (body length is 2-3 millimeters), originating from the family of Homoptera. Its tiny body is yellowish, and a pair of wings, which are twice the size of the insect itself, have a whitish-mealy tint. From a distance, whitefly clusters resemble aphids. Sticky sugary discharge, which the pest leaves behind, forms a sooty mushroom, which is very harmful to the tomato bush.

Fact!

Whitefly likes to settle not only on tomato bushes, but also on cucumbers, eggplants and others. vegetable crops.

Females lay eggs directly on the plants, or rather on the lower part of the leaves. One clutch can count from 130 to 200 eggs. Up to 15 generations of new whiteflies appear per season. The newly born pale green flat larvae covered with growths like needles are very voracious. They feed on the juices of the leaf plate, as a result of which it quickly dries up and falls off. After the spirit of molting, the larvae turn into the so-called nymphs, from which adults fly out after a couple of weeks.

The humid and warm climate of the greenhouse - perfect place the spread of whitefly. When the temperature drops to +10 degrees, adults die, while eggs are able to withstand even frost.

Note!

Whitefly is a carrier of viral infections.

Pest signs

Whitefly appears on bushes within 10-14 after transplanting. It is quite easy to notice a whitefly breeding colony in a greenhouse, since the pest attacks the tomatoes with the whole flock. From this, above the bushes, you can see a white swarm of midges,
which on closer inspection turns out to be a whitefly.

The underside of the leaves is completely covered with small yellowish clusters - egg clutches. And the whitefly's "dining" places are covered with a viscous whitish dotted bloom - the product of the insect's vital activity. The pest, coupled with the development of the introduced infection, delays the development of plants. Stem atrophy occurs. The foliage turns yellow at the edges, curls, dries out. Rotting ring stains appear on the fruits.

Control methods

Getting rid of the ubiquitous whitefly is difficult as its population grows rapidly throughout the summer. Therefore, it is necessary to fight against the small dirty trickster systematically during the entire growing season of tomato bushes, competently using chemical, biological, mechanical and, naturally, folk methods.

Biological methods

The safest and most effective methods that also do not require large investments. Why is the whitefly not very common outdoors? The answer is simple: because in unprotected areas, it is itself endangered. God loves to feast on her
ladybugs, lacewings and other predatory insects. It is difficult for them to get into the greenhouse, and therefore the whitefly feels at ease there.

If you want to get rid of the annoying midge as soon as possible, then it is enough to add a dozen biological enemies to the greenhouse ladybirds (or other insects such as macrolophus bugs, ecrasia, ichneumon fly), which will quickly overfill all flying individuals.

For a more sophisticated hunt, an encarzia predator is suitable, which will “solve the problem” with the young offspring of the whitefly. He lays eggs directly in her larvae, and then feeds on them. All that remains is to get rid of the adults.

Advice!

Do not put cow dung under the tomatoes - it makes the soil fertile for various pests to settle in it.

A good help in pest control is fumigation of the greenhouse. It is carried out during the preparation of the greenhouse for sowing. Various mixtures are prepared for processing. Means of fumigation include:

• tobacco checker;
• a candle made of sulfur;
• smoke bomb.

Such manipulation allows you to get rid of pests of all ages.

Traditional methods

The use of folk remedies is often effective in cases where the whitefly has just appeared and did not have time to lay offspring. For these purposes, tomatoes are sprayed with various decoctions and herbal infusions that the insect does not tolerate. In addition, they are absolutely harmless to plants and humans; they can be used several times per season.
One of the "tasteless" remedies is an infusion of garlic or tobacco. The insect repels and the smell of yarrow on the leaves of a tomato bush.

A mixture of dandelion (roots) or aloe on tomatoes also disgusts the whitefly, and it flies away forever in search of new food. Well, everyone's favorite soap solution will cover the leaves with a barely noticeable film, which will reliably protect the tops from various pests.

Advice!

Before processing plants, it is necessary to remove plaque and adult moths from greenery.

Mechanical methods

They are considered additional, but, as proven by practice, they work very effectively. If various flying animals have just started up in the greenhouse, then you can collect them "by hand", or rather on sticky traps (fly stickies or cardboard baits made with your own hand with the addition of a sticky layer - honey). Bright plates hanging in different parts of the greenhouse will attract attention and "catch" pests. All that remains is to remove the affected fragments from the tomato and burn them outside the greenhouse. If clutches of eggs are found, they can be removed with a sponge soaked in soapy water.

Fact!

Studies have shown that insects are attracted to blue and yellow colors... Therefore, all the baits are performed exactly in this colors.

Chemicals

And finally, if all other methods have not shown the desired results, heavy artillery is used. Chemicals are very effective in combating greenhouse pests, but at the same time they are toxic, and therefore they must be used carefully and only before the tomato begins to ripen. Otherwise, poison will fall on the fruit.

Note!

Chemical treatment is stopped 21 days before harvest.

Basically, all insecticides help to cope with several types of insects at once. So,
for example, drugs "Aktellik", "Malation", "Aktara", "Cypermethrin", "Iskra-M", "Talstar" also save from bedbugs and aphids. Well-known targeted drugs also include: "Verticillin", "Confidor", "Rovikur", "Mospilan", "Pegasus", "Fufanon". In case of severe damage by bloodsuckers, the treatment is repeated 2-3 times, but only according to the instructions. Reckless use of chemicals can lead to crop damage.

From the known means the best aerosols are "Kra-Deo", "Super".

In addition to chemicals, such fumigators as Biotlin and Warrant can cope with whitefly.

Prevention

In the fight against whitefly, all means are good, but it is better not to allow the annoying pest to the tomato plantings at all. Compliance with preventive measures will significantly reduce the risk
the appearance of an insect and will help preserve the harvest.

Prevention includes:

• seed treatment before sowing with manganese solution;
• killing weeds after harvest;
• deep digging of soil in the off-season;
• incorporating only rotted organic matter into the soil;
• not leaving manure heaps for the winter - this is an excellent place for the whitefly to winter;
• keeping the distance between seedlings for better air circulation;
• control of the microclimate of the greenhouse (regular ventilation, competent watering);
• the acquisition of varieties resistant to diseases and pests;
• adding a handful of chicken droppings to the holes when planting seedlings - this will increase the immunity of the tomato;
• regular tillage - weeding, loosening, aeration.

Conclusion

Each gardener independently chooses a way to get rid of the pest, depending on the growing conditions of tomatoes and the number of insects. The methods can be combined or used locally. The main thing is to do everything on time and following the instructions - only then can you defeat the enemy.