A competent drainage device around the house: we understand the main points of installation. Drainage device around a private house - a system for draining water from the site and from the foundation Open drainage around the house with your own hands

Drainage around the house is effective way protection of building elements and outbuildings from moisture. The creation of such a drainage system is especially important if the groundwater is at a depth of less than 2.5 meters. This is also necessary if the residential building is located on an area prone to seasonal or weather flooding. How to properly drain around the house with your own hands - step by step instructions. The design of the drainage system is not a difficult task, but for its accurate organization, you need to follow simple rules.

With the help of special drainage pipes LightDrain, you can install the drainage system yourself. See the addresses of stores in Moscow and the Moscow region.

System Description

For effective drainage of ground, rain and melt water, which not only destroy the structural elements of the structure, fill the basement and cellar, but also reduce the bearing capacity of the soil, there are several ways to arrange drainage. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, the decision of which type to choose and how best to make a drainage around the house remains with the owner himself.

The design and location of the system for protecting against excessive moisture is selected taking into account the terrain, the presence of buried premises, the depth of groundwater, and the type of soil. By design, the following drainage systems are distinguished: backfill, open and closed.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Depending on what area of \u200b\u200bthe land plot needs to be drained, what type and what depth of drainage will be most effective, the location of the entire system is chosen. If it is necessary to exclude the effect of water on the foundation and basements, create wall or ring drainage. The first type is advisable in the presence of a basement or basement room and is located in the immediate vicinity of the foundation walls. Trenches are dug around the perimeter, a perforated pipe is laid (below the level of the basement floor) and covered with rubble or gravel. The wall is fenced off with a layer of geotextile with one-sided conductivity. The water from the soil does not reach the walls, but enters the drainage pipe and is discharged to a safe place.

For effective drainage, you need to know how to properly drain the site. For this, the drainage system is located around the entire perimeter. The most time consuming, expensive, but also the most effective method is a closed system using plastic pipes. The price of such perforated pipes is affordable for any family budget. It perfectly removes excess water from the site, preventing mold from forming, ruining garden and garden plants, destroy load-bearing building elements and not spoil the appearance of the house.

To create such a drain, you need to perform several operations:

• draw a diagram of the future system on paper indicating the size and distance from the edge of the site, as well as taking into account the landscape design and the location of plantings;
• will designate future routes on the site itself with paint or sand;
• with your own hands or with the help of a small technique, dig trenches along the marked routes (depth and width depend on the level of groundwater and the diameter of the pipes used, vary from 70 to 150 cm in depth and from 25 to 40 cm in width);
• line the bottom and walls of the trench with geotextiles (the material will significantly reduce clogging of the drainage and significantly increase the period of effective work);
• apply a layer of sand (about 15 cm) to the bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone or gravel (about 20 cm);
• using the device and the gravel layer, set the desired slope level;
• with a large area of \u200b\u200bthe site, it will be necessary to create inspection wells at a distance of 50 meters from each other in places of bending or changing the slope of pipes;
• perforated pipes are laid (best of all with a filter element - fiberglass, coconut fiber, non-woven or needle-punched textiles) and interconnected with fittings;
• most optimal diameter a drainage pipe that provides good water drainage is considered 110 mm;
• the slope is checked again (it can be easily done with a stretched rope), while it is necessary to create a uniform level, excluding the sagging of the pipe;
• it is very important that the drainage system is below the level of soil freezing;
• from above the pipes are covered with crushed stone or gravel, the layer thickness should not reach the soil surface about 15 cm;
• geotextiles are laid on the crushed stone layer and the soil is filled up.

There is no need to be afraid of the increase in the cost of creating drainage: the acquisition of additional geotextiles and the separation of all layers among themselves will only increase the efficiency and service life of the entire system. Following these simple instructions will allow you to mount long-term water protection yourself and maintain your property and health throughout the entire life of the house.

Backfill design

The backfill drainage structure is a deep trench (below the upper water table) filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or other rubble material. The upper part of the trench is covered with a layer of turf, and to reduce sagging and silting of the passage space, the walls are laid with a layer of geotextile material. Such drainage is characterized by ease of creation, low cost, long service life and no need for maintenance.

In addition, in its final form, it does not violate general view site and does not bring dissonance to the landscape design. Of the minuses, it is possible to note the low throughput of the water flow and the impossibility of cleaning the discharge channel in case of clogging.

Open type drainage device

The open version or surface drainage implies the creation of shallow trenches (about 0.5 meters) of an open type, through which rain and melt water is discharged into special containers or discharged outside the site. To prevent sagging and destruction of the walls of the trenches, plastic or metal trays are placed in them. Top-mounted grilles provide additional safety.

How to properly make a closed drainage system

The most difficult and laborious type of drainage is the closed type. When organizing it, trenches are dug, a layer of gravel or large crushed stone is poured onto the bottom, and then perforated pipes are laid. From above, the entire structure is again covered with crushed stone or gravel and at the end a layer of soil is applied. To increase the efficiency of water drainage and reduce silting on perforated pipes, filter material (geotextile) is used. The materials for the manufacture of perforated pipes are steel, asbestos cement, ceramics, but now almost all types have given way to plastic. Corrugated plastic pipes, which already have holes in their finished form, are distinguished by their long length and ease of installation.

When choosing any method for removing excess moisture, be sure to take into account the slope of the drainage channels. For the system to work properly, the level of inclination towards the outlet to an artificial or natural water intake must be at least 3 ° for one branch or 1 cm for each running meter. When deciding how to make the drainage slope correctly, you can use the adjustment of the thickness of the gravel pad.

Installation work cost

Name of works			price, rub.
Ring drainage device around the house
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well
Wall drainage around the house
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well

* The cost indicated on the website is not a public offer (Article 435 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation) and is for informational purposes only.
The formation of the price also depends on the volume, distance of the object and other factors.

From this article, you will learn the features of such a design as a drainage system around a house: a drainage device at the foundation of a house, the rules for performing this procedure, and the requirements put forward for storm sewers. You will be able to study in detail the technology of creating a wall drainage type, as well as get acquainted with the prices for this type of work performed by turnkey specialists.

Do not confuse the process of arranging drainage around the house with your own hands with waterproofing. These two concepts are incompatible, but the two technologies are not mutually exclusive. Together, they allow you to create reliable protection the foundations of a residential building from moisture.

Device

The organization of a drainage system for the house, or as it is also called - drainage systems, makes it possible to reduce the water level in the territory suburban area or completely eliminate excess fluid.

Note! The danger of overheating is possible both from the outside and from the inside. Outside, the base can be affected by flood waters and accumulations of precipitation. On the inside, groundwater causes flooding if it runs close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection comes in handy.

Even a well-made waterproofing is not able to properly protect the base of a residential building, its basement and basement from water penetration for a long time. Long-term exposure to moisture ultimately reveals weak spots and gaps in the waterproofing. With a high level of groundwater, it is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage.

Feasibility of arranging drainage around the house

Constant exposure to moisture can not only destroy the concrete base of a building, but also provoke the appearance of other negative factors of influence. Such factors include putrefaction, the development of fungi and other microorganisms that can live in the supporting structures of the building.

This result can be caused both by the lack of drainage of the foundation of the house, and by mistakes made in the calculations or direct installation of the system. Even if such a problem already exists, this does not mean that the situation cannot be corrected. The advantage of such a system is that the installation of wall drainage of the foundation can be carried out even after all construction work on the construction of the building has already been completed.

Installation of drainage systems for private houses is advisable in such cases:

1. The site has a low-lying nature of its location - the lower the territory is located in relation to the surrounding landscape, the more urgent the problem of the lack of a drainage system becomes.
2. The quality of the soil does not allow the absorption of moisture into the ground in a natural mode - loamy and clayey soil options slow down the processes of natural decrease in the water level at the site.
3. The area is characterized by a high level of precipitation - storm water is collected on the surface in such an amount that it simply does not have time to be removed by natural means.
4. Groundwater is too close to the surface.

Note! Drainage schemes around the house should take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. Such surfaces include walkways, vehicle entrances and rest areas with asphalt or paved tiles.

The main types of drainage and storm water around the house

It is quite easy to properly drain around the house, as well as installing a stormwater system in a garden area. The main thing is:

• perform the calculations correctly;
• choose the type of system corresponding to the site conditions;
• select materials suitable for technical and operational characteristics;
• carry out drainage of the foundation and blind area in accordance with the requirements and technology.

Choosing a system for drainage of the foundation

The type of system is selected based on what conditions the territory has. The more acute the problem with flooding the site is, the more decisive the protection measures should be.

The main types of surface systems:

• storm drain or storm sewer - installing surface drainage around the house. Its main advantage is simple and affordable technology. Most of the work is carried out quickly and without the help of specialists. The disadvantages of this system include limited opportunities... The storm drain is able to take away only melted and storm moisture; it cannot cope with the problem of groundwater;
• linear system - covers a wide range of tasks, is able to drain the entire territory suburban area and the area around the building. In this case, water moves through the channels and enters the well for drainage. In most cases, the channels are linear. Special grilles are put on top;
• point system - a do-it-yourself option for foundation drainage, which allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from locally located sources. These sources include sprinkler taps and downpipes. Point type drainage is blocked decorative grillesmade of metal. They prevent debris and leaf litter from clogging up the system. From each water intake point, drainage pipes are laid around the house with their own hands in accordance with a technology that assumes the subsequent connection of water transmission paths with a single highway leading to the well.

Helpful advice! Point and linear systems can be combined to obtain combined option drainage, allowing to increase the efficiency of drainage of the area around the building.

Features of a high-quality drainage device around the house: the cost of work

The price of turnkey drainage around the house is, of course, much higher than the cost of similar works performed with my own hands... But in this case, you get:

• guaranteed quality of the result;
• full compliance with all technological standards;
• accurate calculation of all parameters and the correct choice of materials;
• no errors fatal to the system;
• high speed of organization of turnkey foundation drainage.

Drainage price in the area around the house (stormwater):

Service type	Depth level, m	Number of storm water inlets, pcs.	Price, rub / rm
Shallow storm water storm	1	14 (maximum)	1500
		15 (minimum)	1900
Storm drain with deepening below the freezing level	1,5	14 (maximum)	2300
		15 (minimum)	2700

To the indicated cost of drainage around the house is added the cost of installing each additional stormwater inlet, if necessary. It is 1500 rubles / piece.

To make a more accurate calculation of the cost, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (for each riser should be purchased), as well as the length of the building around the perimeter (based on this indicator, the molding of the system is determined).

Helpful advice! If you want to organize a system for the drainage of storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to the storm water of shallow depth (up to 1 m). It will be able to function only during the warm season. The system will cope with rainwater and melt water with a level of deepening below freezing of the soil (more than 1.5 m). This type can be used in combination with cable-heated gutter systems.

Common drainage schemes for foundation and garden plot

All drainage systems around the house by type of location can be divided into two groups:

• drainage at the foundation of the building;
• drainage systems for garden plots.

The following schemes are used to organize stormwater and drainage structures for garden plots:

• Herringbone;
• "Partial sample";
• "Parallel placement".

On garden plots install closed or open drainage systems. In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.

The wall drainage layout implies digging in and arranging a clay castle through the entire foundation along the perimeter. The width of this element is 0.5-1 m. This view schemes are recommended for use in the event that the building has a basement or is equipped with a basement. In this case, the depth of drainage around the house determines the level of placement of the floors. The pipes are placed about 25-30 cm lower than the floor surface.

The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:

• sand cushion;
• geotextile film;
• pipeline (inner diameter 100-200 mm);
• sand interlayers with a drainage purpose;
• soil;
• clay interlayers (can be replaced with a waterproof film coating).

The scheme of ring drainage around the house involves laying trenches with an indent from the building by 1.5-3 m. To exclude moisture penetration into the zone located between the base of the house and the trench, it is necessary to organize a clay castle.

Helpful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. From it you need to retreat down to 0.5 m. Thanks to this, you exclude the possibility of flooding the basement floor, as well as basements.

Drainage device around the house: the price of the services of specialists in working with the foundation

As in the case of storm drains, the prices for organizing a drainage system at the foundation depend not only on the length of the building around the perimeter, but also on the level of deepening of the drainage structure.

Arrangement of the ringdrainage around the house: cost of work Full construction:

Depth level, m	Price, rub / rm
1	1500
1,5	2550
2	4600
2,5	7100
3	9450

Installation of a manifold for this system, complete with pumping station, will cost about 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.

The calculation of the exact cost of turnkey work is carried out taking into account the depth of the base of the house (the level of deepening depends on this indicator), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (also take into account the necessary indent from the wall).

Arrangement of the walldrainage around the house: the cost of work Full construction:

Depth level, m	Price, rub / rm
1	1600
1,5	2450
2	4300
2,5	6900
3	9600

When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.

Drainage system around the house: do it yourself drainage device

To arrange drainage of the blind area around the house or other similar system, soil analysis is carried out at the initial stage. As a rule, such data become known even during the construction of the foundation part of the building. For this, several wells are drilled (4-5 pcs.) In the construction zone to a depth of 5 m and the terrain is being studied.

On clay and loamy soils, moisture from precipitation and melting snow accumulates in the upper layer of soil. A similar situation occurs if groundwater flows at a depth of less than 2.5 m from the surface.

Helpful advice! If you are not confident in your own abilities, entrust the choice of a drainage system to professionals. In case of problems, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.

Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it right freezing depth calculation:

Climatic zones	The depth of soil freezing, cm
Kurgan-Omsk	210-220
Orenburg-Kostanay	180-200
Vologda-Vyatka	150-170
Petersburg-Moscow	120-140
Rostov-on-Don-Kursk	90-110
Kaliningrad-Sevastopol	70-80

The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.

Organization of wall drainage around the house: how to do the installation correctly

Before installing the drainage system around the house with your own hands, you need to complete a row preparatory work, since this structure will be adjacent to the foundation of the building. Preparation includes:

1. Treatment of the base with a bituminous primer from the outside.
2. Application over the dried surface of bituminous mastic.
3. Gluing a reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 mm.
4. Drying the surface during the day.
5. Application of the second layer of bituminous mastic.

The pipe-laying pattern may be affected by specific gravity soil. Data on the main soil categories are presented in the table.

Distance between drains fordo it yourself drainage devices around the house:

Pipeline installation depth, cm	Optimal distance between pipes, cm
	Light soil types	Average soils	Heavy clay soils
450	450-550	400-500	200-300
600	650-750	500-650	300-400
900	900-1100	700-900	400-550
1200	1200-1500	1000-1200	450-700
1500	1550-1800	1200-1500	650-900
1800	1800-2200	1500-1800	700-1100

Helpful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying scheme, take into account not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils the optimal pipe laying spacing is no more than 50 m, on clayey - 10 m, on loamy - 20 m.

Drainage technology around the house: how to do the bulk of the work

The procedure for creating a foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:

• in the lowest place of the site, a collector well is being installed;
• a trench is formed along the foundation with a slope towards the drainage basin, which is regulated using the building level;
• a sand cushion is created at the bottom of trenches 5 cm thick;
• on top of the sand cushion is laid with a margin so that the ends of the canvas can be wrapped with an overlap;
• the formation of a gravel cushion 10 cm thick;

• installation of pipes at an angle of 2 °;
• docking of pipeline elements using angle connectors and adapters;
• viewing wells are placed in the corners of the structure. A pipeline with a slope is laid from them to the catchment well;
• formation of a gravel embankment with a thickness of 10 cm;
• wrapping pipes with gravel with free ends of geotextile fabric, which is fixed with strong synthetic ropes;
• filling trenches with earth or sand (depending on the type of soil on the site).

Do-it-yourself ring drainage around the house: how to install the system

To install this system, it is required to make a closed system of trenches around the structure, taking into account the fact that their depth should exceed the level of the foundation by 0.5 m.

Helpful advice! Use perforated pipes in your work. The trenches must be removed from the base of the house by 5-8 m, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sink.

For drainage system

In this case, the trenches should also be located with a slope towards the water collection well. The minimum slope is 2-3 cm / rm. By adding sand or removing it, this indicator can be controlled.

Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:

1. Sand is poured at the bottom of the trench and geotextile fabric is laid with a margin (free edges must be wrapped around the walls of the trench).
2. A crushed stone pillow 10 cm thick is formed.
3. Installation of a pipeline with a diameter of 10 cm or more with an angle of inclination of 2 ° is in progress.
4. Installation of inspection chambers is carried out in those places where the pipes turn. On straight sections, wells can be installed at a distance of 12 m from each other.
5. An embankment is made of gravel or crushed stone (the thickness of the layer is 20-30 cm).
6. Wrapping with free edges of geotextile fabric is performed.
7. The trenches are filled to the top with sand and earth.

Organization of drainage around the house with your own hands without pipes

The process of arranging drainage around the house can do without the use of pipes and even rubble. Alternative types of drainage:

1. Backfill system - as a filler for trenches, materials at hand are used (concrete fragments, broken brick, stones, pieces of hardened cement) and necessarily geotextile fabric.
2. Drainage based on plastic bottles - material with screwed caps is laid longitudinally in trenches, covered with turf and earth.
3. Fascin system - bunches of brushwood with a diameter of 30 cm are used, tied with nylon laces or wire.
4. Pole drainage - at the bottom of the trenches, spacer sticks are installed, where small young trees or long knots are then placed.
5. Board system - boards are placed at the bottom of the trenches in such a way that a triangle is formed in cross-section, with its top directed downward. It is recommended to put moss on the boards as a filter before filling with earth.

However, such systems can behave unpredictably and it is impossible to predict the drainage service life from available materials.

Use the video below for a more detailed consideration of the classic technology of creating do-it-yourself drainage around the house. Only in this case you will be able to achieve a really high-quality, effective and durable result. By adhering to the technology requirements, you will get a reliable drainage system, even if you create a gravel trench system without piping.

Drainage system around the house

Even the most reliable and high-quality waterproofing of the foundation cannot endlessly withstand soil moisture. Sooner or later, water will find its way through the opened capillaries, cracks and mechanical defects of the insulating layer. To prevent this from happening, and the foundation does not become, over time, a capillary pump and a source of dampness in the premises, it is necessary to divert the ground water away from the foundation or, at least, to reduce the capillary pressure on the waterproofing surface.

The most reliable way to protect the foundation from getting wet is to drain water from it through the drain. The various drainage systems are described below and examples of their implementation are given.

What is drainage and how does it work

Where waterproofing can be compared to a water wall, drainage is like a drainage pump. Waterproofing and drainage systems around the house complement each other perfectly and provide the most complete protection of the foundation from ground moisture.

As you know from the school physics course, liquid, according to the law of communicating vessels, always pours into a lower place. Do not forget that moisture in the soil spreads through the capillaries rather slowly. Therefore, the rapid draining of the collected water through the drain pipes creates a dry area behind them. It is this effect that is used to protect the foundation of the house.

Laying drainage around the house with your own hands is easy. It is a system of perforated pipes that collect groundwater, which flows by gravity to a discharge point in a suitable place, for example, to a special well.

In any case, drainage pipes are installed with a slope. Ideally, if the soil around the house has a slight slope, and there is a ravine nearby, where water can be discharged. On a horizontal section located in a lowland, water has to be collected in a special storage tank - a drainage well, from where it is periodically pumped out as it is filled. The accumulated moisture can be used both for technical needs and for watering plants.

Ready-made drainage pipes can be replaced with homemade ones. The do-it-yourself drain pipe is made from orange plumbing (thick-walled pipe for outdoor installation). The effect is achieved by drilling many drainage holes in it.

Types of drainage for a private house

Do-it-yourself drainage of the foundation of a house is done of two types: superficial and deep. The first of them is necessary for the drainage of water after melting snow and rain from the soil surface or blind area. Structurally, this is an ordinary storm drain. Water is collected in it along the foundation area, which has a slight slope from the wall of the house in the direction of the drain pipe. The size of the storm drain depends on the maximum rainfall in the area and the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof that collects water.

To protect against groundwater, it is necessary to equip a deep drainage system. Moreover, it should be located as low as possible, ideally below the base of the foundation.

For the sake of saving money and time, some inexperienced developers combine the drainage and drainage system by organizing the drain of the roof gutters into the drainage pipe. This should not be done in any case, because during rain the drainage pipe does not have time to drain the wastewater, and they actively penetrate the soil through the perforations, causing waterlogging around the drainage. If there is nowhere to drain the rainwater, you can drain it directly into the drainage storage tank, but always through your own separate pipe.

The drainage device itself is highly dependent on the type of soil. So much for sandy soil with a high clay horizon lying above the basement base, drainage should take place at the junction of the clay and sandy horizons. Heavy clayey soil does not allow water to pass through well, and to determine the depth of water penetration, you will have to dig an exploration hole. In very wetlands, it may be necessary to create a local watershed with a waterproof film or even a concrete partition in the ground.

Arrangement of deep drainage

The main element of underground drainage is a perforated drainage pipe that collects water from the ground and transports it by tilting. The greater the slope, the more efficiently the drainage of the house assembled with your own hands works, and the more water is removed from the ground. But a strong slope leads to a sharp increase in the volume of work, especially with a long length of the drainage system.

On the other hand, a small slope of the pipes slows down the movement of water and leads to a gradual siltation of the internal channels. A slope of at least 1 cm for each running meter of the pipe is considered acceptable. The slope angle must remain constant throughout the drain. Otherwise, sediment will begin to accumulate at the fracture sites, which will gradually lead to blockage of the pipes. When arranging drainage, this angle must be monitored using a meter bubble level and a centimeter pad.

A drainage ditch is dug around the perimeter of the foundation at least 50 cm from it. If the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house is wider than half a meter, we dig a ditch along its edge. The minimum width of the ditch is also 50 cm. The wall closest to the foundation is made vertical. The opposite slope of the ditch is with a slight slope. Further actions depend on the type of soil and the level of waterlogged soil.

Drainage system on light soils

If the soil does not suffer from high moisture and has a light mechanical structure, drainage can be arranged according to a simplified scheme. Permeable geotextiles are laid out at the bottom of the ditch with an overlap on the edges. A layer of coarse sand and several centimeters of medium and fine gravel are poured onto it. A drainage pipe is laid on top of the rubble.

Then it is completely covered with rubble and all this is covered with the edges of agrofibre. Sand and gravel act as a filter to trap particulate matter that can clog drainage holes. The ditch with the pipe is filled with a thin layer of fine gravel, and then with soil.

How to make drainage around the house with a high level of waterlogging

For heavily boggy soil, the drainage described above will not be enough. To separate excess moisture, waterproofing is preliminarily arranged along the outer edge of the ditch. The simplest option to make such an artificial watershed is to cover the outer wall of the ditch with a waterproof membrane or several layers of roofing material. In this case, the depth of the ditch should exceed the level of occurrence of the water-resistant clay horizon or be below the base of the foundation.

For complete protection, drainage must close the perimeter around the foundation. The place of discharge is equipped in the place of the greatest occurrence of pipes. As already mentioned, the storage tank can serve to collect both groundwater and atmospheric precipitation. At the same time, the joint use of drainage and drainage pipes is unacceptable, and the groundwater discharge point should be located below the rainwater drain connection.

Outcome

A drainage device around the house provides a sufficiently high level of protection against wetting of the foundation. Thanks to a properly equipped drainage system, you will be relieved of many problems associated with increased dampness for many years.

The drainage system arranged around the house makes it possible to significantly reduce or even completely remove excess water from the site. And this applies not only to groundwater, but also to precipitation. Drainage should not be confused with waterproofing, they can perfectly complement each other, but not interchangeably.

When can you not do without drainage?

A drainage system is necessary in many areas, but in some it is indispensable.

• Drainage is especially needed in areas that are located quite low. In such places, the problem of excessive moisture accumulation is constant.
• Drainage is essential in clay soils where the water level drops too slowly. Loamy soils are also better not to be ignored and drainage systems.
• Such systems are necessary if there is a constant high rainfall in the area.
• In areas where the water table is at a fairly high level, it is also best to use drainage.

• The reason for organizing a drainage system can also be a large number of waterproof coatings on the site, for example, concrete paths, an asphalt yard, and so on.
• Drainage is also required if the site has adjacent buildings with a buried foundation. Indeed, in such a case, water will collect on the surface, since it will not be able to find a way out anywhere. As a result, the likelihood of flooding increases.
• Even if there are no clear preconditions for arranging drainage, you should find out the features of the climate and terrain. If there is the slightest concern that after the rapid melting of snow or frequent rains, the water table may rise, it is better to play it safe and install a drainage system. This will save not only money on home renovations, but also nerves.

Purpose and types of systems

The methods of organizing drainage systems on the site differ depending on the amount of precipitation, the level of groundwater, the characteristics of the type of soil, the relief of the site, the location of the house and other factors.

Drainage according to the installation method can be divided into two types.

• A perfect drainage system is installed at the level of natural water flow. Moisture enters the drains through the holes located on the sides, as well as through the top of the pipes.
• An imperfect drainage system is installed higher than the water level. Moisture penetrates the drains from the bottom, top and sides. To strengthen the sides of this structure, a drainage pad made of sand and gravel is used.

By the way the drainage is arranged, it is divided into open and closed.

Open

Drainage is a system of gutters, trenches, gutters, gutters. This system is organized without pipes. Such drainage looks like a trench 0.5 meters wide and 0.5-0.6 meters deep, designed to drain melt and storm water from the house or from the site. The trench necessarily has a slope towards the main water intake trench, so that water is drained in the desired direction by gravity.

The main advantages of such a drainage system are its low cost and speed of creation.... However, in order to divert a large amount of water due to precipitation, a deep drainage line is required, which is unsafe. In addition, if the walls of the ditches are not equipped, they will quickly collapse. Another disadvantage of this system is that it makes the site look less tidy and aesthetically unattractive.

To increase safety and increase the service life of this drainage option, special concrete or plastic trays are used, which are closed on top with gratings. Open drainage is most often used in agricultureto divert water from already cultivated areas.

Closed

Underground drainage is a pipe system. It has a prettier appearance than the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grill, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and shallower. Closed drainage schemes are used to protect foundations, basements from groundwater and increase their service life.

Particularly closed drainage is suitable for wetlands, as well as areas near which there are natural reservoirs or located in the lowlands. In this case, a closed drainage is best supplemented with a storm sewer. Underground drainage is also called deep drainage.

Underground drainage is divided into two types:

• wall-mounted;
• trench.

It should be clarified that closed drainage is best performed at the stage of building construction.

If the house is already completely ready, then you should opt for a ring trench drainage system. But it should be borne in mind that it is only suitable for houses without a basement. In small areas where there is no need for open drainage, backfill drainage is used. The system of such backfill trenches is not serviced without dismantling after complete arrangement. This is its main drawback. The organization of backfill drainage is carried out in several stages.

Most often, in practice, open trench drainage is used, since it is the easiest to arrange.

Shower as an addition

A storm drain or storm sewer will be a useful addition to the drainage system. It allows you to remove water from the site, which falls on it in the form of precipitation. Through the storm drain, water moves either to a water-collecting well, or to a collector well, from which there is an outlet to a drainage ditch or sewer network. For a drainage well, it is best to choose the most distant place from the building. You can also organize the drainage of water using a storm drain into the nearest body of water.

It should be remembered that for stormwater pipelines, laying over geotextiles is best suited, and it is better to drain water directly into storm water inlets.

Storm sewer also called surface drainage. Its main advantage is that it is very easy to set up on the site. However, it should be borne in mind that storm water can only cope with melt and rain water.

The stormwater is divided into three types:

• Linear allows you to divert melt and rainwater not only from the house, but also from the entire site. This type is represented by channels that are dug into the ground and a drainage well. Often, the channels are made in the form of straight lines, which are covered with bars for safety.
• Pointallows you to drain water from individual sources, for example, from sprinklers or roof gutters. In order to prevent debris from getting into this storm drain, it is covered with metal gratings. The organization of the linear view is that pipes are laid from each point, which are connected to the main pipe that goes into the drainage well.
• Combined stormwater involves the use of both linear and point views.

Household sewerage

Types

There are several types of drainage systems around the house.

• Reservoir drainage is used as an auxiliary structure. Such drainage is most often used as an addition to the main system. It is best to choose it for areas where groundwater occurs at a shallow depth. It is ideal for draining surface water. Often, reservoir drainage is used in clayey areas. It must be located at a short distance from the foundation of the building.
• Annular drainage prevents flooding of basements and basements. It is best to use such drainage in areas where the content of sand is increased. This is due to the fact that the annular drainage almost does not retain moisture, easily passing it through.
• Wall-mounted drainage is used most often. It allows you to protect not only the building, but also the basement levels from moisture. It is recommended for use in areas with a lot of clay.

Device

In order to better understand what type of drainage is suitable for a particular area, it is necessary to consider in detail the device of each of them.

• Reservoir. The formation drainage is based on an air gap. Such a drainage option can be made in various ways. The most common of these is gravel drainage. For its arrangement, it is necessary to place a layer of gravel about 50 centimeters high under the operating surface. This layer will become the air gap. A filter cloth such as geotextile must be placed in this gap. Then add a layer of sand and finish, for example, with tiles.

• Annular.The scheme of this drainage is vicious circle... Breaks of the circle are acceptable if the water flows exclusively from one side of the building. The ring system is installed lower than the basement level and at a distance of two to three meters from the walls. This prevents flooding of the basements, and also prevents the soil on the site from collapsing.
• Wall mounted.This system is installed at a distance of about 50 centimeters from the walls of the building. Moreover, it must be installed lower than the level at which the basement is located. As a result, the wall drainage system optimally protects the foundation from moisture ingress. Most often, this type of drainage is used in areas where the composition of the soil is heterogeneous.

Scheme and principle of operation

Despite the variety of drainage systems, they all work on a similar principle and have similar designs. The drainage scheme can be represented as a closed system of pipes connected to each other. Typically, most types of drainage systems are installed lower than the level of the building's foundation. In order for the perimeter of a private house to be well protected from moisture, it is best to install the drainage system at an angle. With this solution, the water will drain well without lingering.

Before starting to drain water, you should definitely find out at what height the groundwater is located. This is done as follows: a layer of earth is dug at a depth of more than two meters, and then the condition of the soil is assessed.

In order for the water to accumulate and then move away from there, a well is made in the corner of the building, from which a pipe system is laid to drain water outside the site. If the drainage is arranged correctly, then the basement and basement will not be wet and damp. Otherwise, you need to identify where the mistakes were made. To improve the quality of drainage, an additional waterproofing system can be installed.

How to do it right?

It is not difficult to properly arrange the drainage system with your own hands. The best place to start is with preparatory work. For this, the terrain is first studied, the composition of the soil is determined, and the level of groundwater is estimated. After that, work is carried out to prepare the foundation of the structure. To do this, trenches are dug around the perimeter of the base. Then dirt is removed from them, as well as layers of thermal and waterproofing.

The cleaned foundation is subject to mandatory drying. The foundation itself will dry out in 5-7 days, and in good warm weather it can be faster. You can also use mechanical means like a heat gun for drying. Such means can speed up the process up to one day.

As soon as the foundation is dry, a layer of waterproofing is applied to it. As the latter, you can use polyethylene or bitumen. And only after that the drainage system is installed.

For strip foundations

In order to properly equip the drainage for the strip foundation, you must adhere to a number of rules. Then the installation of the drainage system will not be difficult, and the result will be amazing.

• You need to start by digging a trench around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the trench should be greater than the depth at which the foundation lies. At the bottom of this trench, a so-called drainage cushion with a height of 30 centimeters must be laid. The pillow should be 15 centimeters from coarse river sand and 15 centimeters from fine gravel. It must be tamped down and spilled well with water.
• The pipeline system is laid directly. Drainage pipes must be covered with a waterproofing layer such as bitumen or polyethylene. So that the accumulated moisture has a place to drain, a well is installed with drainage outside the boundaries of the site.

For a monolithic base

The manufacture of a drainage system for a monolithic base is more complicated. The main feature is that the drainage system is laid before the foundation is erected. This allows you to protect the base of the building in case the ground is displaced. Particular emphasis must be placed on quality construction works drainage. After all, this affects how strong and durable the building as a whole will be. First, you need to prepare a special pit, into which the drainage system will be installed. The pit depth is calculated based on the location and height of the foundation.

At the bottom of the foundation, a layer of brick battle is poured, and then a layer of sand and fine gravel. After that, the entire pillow is carefully compacted. Drainage pipes must be reinforced using special ceilings. Geotextiles are used to seal the pipe surface. In order for the accumulation and removal of water to occur, it is necessary to dig a well from which the pipe will go beyond the site.

There are several options for how to make drainage around the house. However, upon closer examination, the optimal is a closed drainage system, in the arrangement of which there are many secrets.

Drainage system around the house - why is it needed?

A typical construction fallacy ( peculiar to people without experience, but with money) is a substitution of fundamental concepts. Drainage does not replace foundation waterproofing! A foundation perfectly insulated from moisture still needs a drainage system! The reason lies in the depths of your site - in alternating layers of clay and loam, in seasonal changes in the water table.

Equally important is the relative height of the site on the ground - the smaller it is, the more relevant is the do-it-yourself drainage device around the house. The amount of precipitation and the external permeability of the soil also contribute to the need for drainage. There are many factors, and not all of them can be taken into account even before building a house. And they manifest themselves quite tangibly - in the form of basement mold, fungi on supporting beams and in other unpleasant forms.

Therefore, the drainage system is laid at the stage earthworks, when digging a foundation pit for a house... All other schemes for the removal of melt and ground water, atmospheric precipitation, etc. should be recognized as patching holes on a sprawling shirt, although for objectivity we will consider them.

How to make drainage around the house - installation options

There are only three of them, and the first two are carried out with great reservations. They pose a potential danger to the life and health of residents and are rather relevant for those houses in which there are no children:

• Open option... A ditch is dug around the house, and its depth should exceed the depth of the foundation. The width of the ditch can be narrow, plus it is necessary to make a slope for natural water flow. As a result, a slit-like trench appears on its own site, which fatally affects the imposing appearance... It can be decorated with external ceilings, but the danger of children and animals falling into such a ditch remains;
• Backfill option... The same open ditch, but covered from above with rubble stone, cinder blocks, rubble and decorated with turf. Nobody will fall into it, but the technical operation of the filling system is fundamentally impossible. In case of emergency blockage of the drainage, it will be necessary to open the entire ditch, and localize problem area will have on a whim. That is, you will need to dig the entire site as if you were looking for a treasure;
• Closed option... Performed by drain pipes, safe and efficient, allows maintenance and various ways of arrangement. We will consider it in more detail: how to make drainage on a site with our own hands using buried pipes. And let's start by choosing them.

How to make drainage on a site - we choose pipes with our own hands

Drainage pipes are produced by our (and not our) industry of the following varieties:

• Asbestos-cement, the most durable, durable ... and heavy. An additional joy is the need to make through cuts in them, staggered and quite long - every 15-20 cm with a size of at least 5 mm. Manufacturers emphasize the service life of such pipes, which reaches 50 years, and asbestos cement itself is not afraid of aggressive environments;
• Ceramic - that is, simply clay. This means that they are fragile, they can be damaged even at the stage of transportation and storage. However, some types of ceramic pipes are good for the presence of additional surface grooves, they contribute to increased moisture collection. Perforation of ceramic pipes is similar to asbestos-cement, that is, it is performed independently, in place. Installation is hampered by the low strength of the ceramic drainage material;
• Porous pipes are made of plastic concrete, expanded clay glass and other modern building materials. They do not need perforation at all due to their porous structure - moisture is collected through capillary channels in the walls. Financially expensive, efficient drainage is provided with a significant diameter of pipes;
• Polymer pipes - made of polypropylene, polyethylene and other plastics. Lightweight, economical, easy to install and efficient over a long period of time - 90% of drainage work in private homes is performed by them.

Drainage device around the house - do it yourself and step by step

Step by step instructions with practical adviceHow to make drainage around the house consists of the following stages for its arrangement:

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house - step by step diagram

Step 1: surveyor

We determine the lowest point of our site - yes, yes, the trench will have to be pulled to it, there will be a drain well. Because avoiding mold in your basement is important, but preventing waterlogged soil is also useful. With the flat nature of the site, the presence of tall grass and other external complications, the theodolite will help determine the lower point. This tool can be rented or asked from friends - you cannot refer to it as an item of constant construction necessity.

Ditches around the house should have a slope of at least 1 centimeter per linear meter. Water will flow even at a slope of 3 mm per meter, but dirty moisture, with fine sand and loam, will go through our drainage, the inner surface of the pipes will eventually be covered with plaque. So you have to lay a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter. This will lead to an increase in the amount of excavation, but will serve to the benefit of the durability of the drainage system.

Step 2: excavator

Dig, Shura, they are golden ... The depth of the ditch around the house itself must exceed the bottom point of the foundation by at least 30 cm. This is also why drainage works are carried out at the excavation stage, because it is still dug out "with a margin" sufficient for laying pipes. The excavation stage requires an acute bayonet shovel, the shovel assistant will not be superfluous - for lifting the soil up.

The upper point of the ditch is located on the opposite side of the drainage well in the lower part of the site, the width of the ditch is about 50 cm. Each running meter must be checked with a bubble level for compliance with the required slope.

Step 3: filling and filling

At the bottom of our trench, crushed stone of fractions of 10-15 mm is poured - that is, quite large. A layer of sand is laid on top and rammed. The total thickness of the sand and gravel layer is approximately 15 cm. The slope profile must be maintained exactly - 1 cm per meter is visually poorly recognized, especially in a narrow trench. Again we use a level, the uniformity of the slope is important for the long-term flow of water in the drainage pipes.

The bottom of the trench, with an approach to the walls at least 60-70 cm, is covered with geotextile on each side, this material will not allow moisture to go down to the gravel-sand layer. We make a wide overlap at the junction of the geotextile strips. From above, we again fill in crushed stone, already of a small thickness - 5-7 mm, repeating the slope line.

Step 4: finally drain

Drainage pipes are laid on the second crushed stone surface. Their joints are insulated special tape... Inspection wells with covers are laid in at least two opposite corners of the house - their height should immediately correspond to the level of the turf on the backyard.

The pipe line is pulled to the inspection and drainage wells and checked by pouring water from the top point, at least several buckets. As long as the drainage lines are open, any error can be easily corrected. When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the slope and the tightness of the joints, the pipes can be backfilled.