06.04.2018

How to choose the right log house? Log thickness, wood species and felling methods

Don't get confused by the abundance of offers on the market wood construction rather difficult, and therefore - today we will talk about how to choose a log house and what you need to look at first. Our company is professionally engaged in the design and felling of prefabricated log cabins. Our team has gathered real masters of their craft, who have been doing their work for more than a dozen years, which guarantees the highest quality of our products.

We work in the territory of the central region of the Russian Federation and in the North-West. Also, it is possible to build a log house to order, according to an individual project.

PRICES for log houses of baths (2020)

The size Paw. Bowl.
3x3 39 000 rub. 69 000 rub.
3x4 53 000 rub. 88 000 rub.
4x4 74 000 rub. 110,000 RUB
4x5 90 000 rub. 130 000 rub.
5x5 110,000 RUB 150 000 rub.
6x5 130 000 rub. 162,000 RUB
6x6 150 000 rub. 172,000 RUB
  • The height of the log house is 2.5 m.
  • Installation of 40% of the cost of a log house.

Planed log

PRICES for log houses (2020)

The size Paw. Bowl.
6x6 195 000 rub. 223,000 RUB
6x7 210,000 RUB 237,000 RUB
6x8 233,000 RUB 261,000 RUB
6x9 247,000 RUB 275,000 RUB
6x10 261 000 rub 289,000 RUB
7x7 233 000 rub 261,000 RUB
7x8 247 000 rub 275,000 RUB
7x9 261 000 rub 289,000 RUB
7x10 275 000 rub 303,000 RUB
8x8 261 000 rub 289,000 RUB
8x9 275 000 rub 303,000 RUB
8x10 289 000 rub 316 000 rub.
9x9 289 000 rub 316 000 rub.
9x10 313 000 rub 340,000 rub.
10x10 326 000 rub 354,000 RUB
10x11 340 000 rub 368,000 RUB
10x12 354 000 rub 382,000 RUB
11x11 354 000 rub 382,000 RUB

The set includes floor and ceiling beams (round timber)

  • Log height - 3m.
  • Installation from 40% of the cost of a log house. Depending on the number of cuts (walls) and complexity, the cost will increase.

Planed log - a log processed by an electric plane.

After processing, the logs have a uniform woody light beige color.

The price of planed logs is 10% more expensive than barked logs.

Cutting methods

A log house is, first of all, a prefabricated structure made of logs. Logs are harvested in the forest and classified by the way they are cut. There are basically two such methods.


The first implies the location of the connecting elements from the ends of the log (this is called with the remainder). The end result is a log house that is economical in terms of material consumption. There is more useful area with this cutting method. Of the minuses, it can be noted that the thermal insulation of the corners will have to be paid more attention, and the structure itself should be rigidly fixed to the foundation, since it has less stability.

In the second method, which is called "in a cup", the connection is located at a distance from the ends of the logs, which allows achieving greater strength and stability of the frame. This method involves more material consumption, but it is most often used for felling log cabins. There are more advantages to cutting "in a cup" than disadvantages and they are as follows:

  • Prevention of natural movement of logs in the walls;
  • Joints at the time of shrinkage of the log house are easier to seal;
  • The production process becomes more technological;
  • It is possible to get rid of the gaps at the junction of the crowns to each other.

Thickness of logs

Answer the question "Does the thickness of the log affect the properties of the structure?" you can answer unequivocally - yes, it does. The thing is that the thermal insulation and stability of the future building directly depend on the thickness of the logs, be it two-storey house, bath or just a household. building like a cowshed or barn. Therefore, first of all, rely on your own funds. In practice, if in winter time year, the temperature outside the window drops below -40 Celsius, it is advisable to take logs with a diameter of more than 18 centimeters (if it is a spruce or pine) and more than 22 centimeters (if it is an oak). Again, here we are considering an example of a residential building. This is in case you want to save some money.

  • (up to -40C, a log of 28 centimeters is needed (taking into account drying out - at least 32 cm));
  • (up to -30C, you need a log of at least 24 centimeters, and taking into account drying out from 28 cm);
  • (up to -20C, use a log from 20 centimeters, taking into account drying out (32 cm).

Logs for assembling log cabins have one more parameter - the width of the groove. It should be 2/3 of the diameter, while the height of the log will be 3/4 of the diameter.

Wood species

In modern wooden construction, coniferous material is most often used. Such wood is highly durable, and is not susceptible to rotting, in part due to the fact that it contains a lot of resin. Nowadays, wood of the following species is mainly used:

  • Larch
  • Pine

Larch buildings have been practiced on the territory of our country since ancient times. Larch logs are characterized by the fact that they are almost not subject to decay. At the same time, the features of this material make it possible to erect truly age-old buildings from it, and over time, the structure will not collapse from moisture, for example (as is the case with wooden buildings from wood of other species) but will only get stronger. A larch house can last at least 100 years, the only problem is one thing - it is a very expensive pleasure, not available to everyone.

Spruce, on the other hand, is distinguished by a looser structure of the material, in contrast to pine, for example. The house, in the construction of which spruce logs will be used, must be thoroughly treated (which will protect against fungus and slow down decay). Spruce wood has a lower thermal conductivity, which allows you to make the house out of if warmer (unlike pine). This is a fairly budget material, and spruce houses are most often found where there is no other wood.

Pine is the most widely used wood species in Russia. It grows in almost every corner of the country, and it grows quite a lot, and therefore it is used everywhere. A pine log house is inexpensive, and it is not difficult to transport it. Over time, pine buildings change slightly and become darker.

Cedar, as a material for the construction of a solid-log house, stands apart. This is a truly noble and elite tree species. Its high cost is justified by its durability and strength. This excellent material is not only durable and convenient, but also environmentally friendly: cedar releases useful substances that generally improve the microclimate in the house, have a positive effect on immunity and improve the well-being of residents.

Ultimately, the most popular wood choice for a home is to combine several types of wood. For example, the lower crowns of the future dwelling are best made of larch, but the walls and other elements should be made of spruce, pine or any other wood.

How to choose a log house? Outcome

First of all, accept for yourself that the winter felling is worth choosing. The most preferable option is logs felled after frost for baptism. At this moment, the least of all remains in the tree structure. methyl alcohol, because of which the log is oxidized. Therefore, it is best to take a finished log house in winter.

Examine the blockhouse carefully for large areas of rot and cracks. Cracks should never be pierced through the log. You can do this yourself by arriving at the production site. Most often, it is worth paying attention to the method of fitting the trunks to a certain size, the duration of shrinkage and drying (information about which the seller is obliged to provide) and the cut of the tree.

In this article, we will help you make a choice of material for a log house (log or cylindering), wood (pine, spruce or aspen), a method of felling (in a bowl or in a paw). We sell log houses with free delivery and unloading * - see the price list, and we also process cylindering protective impregnation... We recommend placing rounded log cabins as the best option - smooth and beautiful.

We make wooden log houses from ordinary flaked logs, from planed logs, from rounded and from bar.

Log - This is an ordinary cut and sanded log. Pros - the top layer of wood is preserved, the most durable, which protects the core. The log house has a traditional look both inside and outside. Such a blockhouse can be cut both into a bowl and into a paw.

Planed log - an ordinary log processed by a hand plane. Pros - has a beautiful appearance, inside the bath is lighter. Cons - less weatherproof, protective treatment required. The cost of such a log house is higher, because manual work is used. Such a blockhouse can be cut both into a bowl and into a paw.

Do you need a five-wall?

The five-walled is the fifth wall inside the building. In the bath, it serves to separate the washing and steam compartments. In a house - for strengthening a long wall, dividing residential and non-residential parts of a house or dividing a house into apartments. For log cabins less than 3 × 5, it does not make sense, because the size of such a log house is already small, the fifth wall will reduce the internal dimensions to critical ones. With a strong desire, the wall in such a log house can be made of a thick board (block), bars or boards with insulation between them.

Discussion of the article

To prove the environmental friendliness and durability of bath rooms from natural wood there is no need - it is a recognized fact. However, the question of choosing a particular type of wood has always been very acute. Some pay attention to the attractive texture, others - to the properties of thermal conductivity. How, after all, it is correct to decide on the material for construction?

Basic rules for choosing wood

Before finding out the answer to the question, which log house is better for a bath, need to understand the following factors

  • characteristic of wood for the steam room;
  • types of wood;
  • material dimensions;
  • useful properties of the breed.

It is especially important to pay when choosing to tree characteristics, its properties:

  • lifetime;
  • thermal insulation parameters;
  • resistance to atmospheric conditions and harmful insects;
  • ease of handling and assembly of the structure.

The current manufacturers offer ready-made kits, where each item is numbered and available for inspection before purchase. Do not give up the log in which you have found small cracks are a fact of shrinkage, and it is impossible to avoid it.

Types of wood: which log house is better for a bath and why?

Each type of wood has certain properties that are formed by such parameters, as:

  • hardness;
  • density;
  • impact strength;
  • rigidity.

These are not all values, there are many interconnecting factors, for example, density and strength depend on the moisture content and weight of the material. Most popular options for the construction of a steam room are:

  • pine;
  • larch;
  • cedar;
  • linden;
  • aspen.

Let's consider some wood species in more detail, considering them advantages and disadvantages.

Pine

Represents the material on which any inexpensive log house and all projectsthat are designed to be fast and uncomplicated. She easy to handle, has relatively light weight, so even a novice carpenter can build a pine steam room. Pine logs during shrinkage, they are less susceptible to deformation and cracking.

However, pine material in a humid environment prone to rotting and all kinds of insects, which over time affects the quality of the design. Of particular note high risk of burns from resin, which is released when pine logs are heated. Therefore, experts recommend such walls clap their hardwoods.

Cedar

This material is highly appreciated by lovers of steam, but such pleasure is not available to everyone - cedar harvesting is limited and its the price is far from budget options ... Unique quality this tree is much ahead of all other species of the conifer family:

  • there is practically no shrinkage;
  • retains geometry and does not crack;
  • resistant to decay and damp environments;
  • not afraid of high temperatures.

The essential oils found in cedarwood give a complete answer to the question, which log house is best for wooden bath - this is real aromatherapy and a visit to such a steam room is very healthy.

Larch

The material also belongs to the group of conifers, however differs from spruce and pine in special strength... Having completely dried, larch logs are close to oak in hardness. The resin contains a natural antiseptic, has a tonic and therapeutic effect on the organs of the cardiovascular system.

The only drawback of this material is its cost - it twice as expensive as pine... But, as fans of "light steam" say, the costs are fully justified.

Linden

True connoisseurs build steam rooms from this particular wood. All realized projects of baths from a lime log house have excellent properties:

  • healing microclimate;
  • does not require a massive foundation;
  • high thermal insulation properties;
  • no shrinkage.

It should be noted that paired linden need careful ventilation and drying after each procedure... Otherwise, there is a high probability that fungus and decay, which significantly reduce the service life of the premises.

Aspen

Another representative of hardwood, easy to handle and lightweight... At a cost of several cheaper than linden, since it grows practically throughout the territory of the Russian Federation. At the same time, the aspen steam room is more resistant to moisture than linden, and does not require repair for a long time.

Hardwood premises do not require interior decoration , because do not emit heavy resin fumes, unlike conifers.

Choosing a project for logging a wooden bath: highlights

The main question is the estimated number of people who will visit the steam room and, of course, the allowable amount for its construction. Basically, when calculating the sizes, they are repelled by the fact that the average room for taking procedures consists of such branches:

  • hallway-vestibule;
  • changing rooms;
  • steam rooms;
  • washing.

Dressing room area 4-5 sq. m quite enough for visitors of 3-5 people. It is worthwhile to provide for the installation of a window. For steam rooms enough 6-9 sq. m, shelves up to 2 meters long are arranged along the wall. For such the project of the log house of an individual bath the size of the room will be optimal 3X4.5 m.

A full-size steam room 4x6 m will allow you to spend your time more comfortably, since with this size you can arrange a relaxation room where benches and a table will be convenient. If desired and the availability of funds, it is possible to equip an attic or a glazed veranda.

In the minds of many novice developers, the term “ wooden house"- a synonym for high-quality and environmentally friendly buildings. After all, this is how our grandfathers built. Moreover, thinking about building a house made of wood, a country dweller is often mistaken, believing that it will be much cheaper to build such a cottage than stone house... Another point that many do not pay attention to is the correct operation of a freshly placed log house. And this directly affects the characteristics of the house and the further costs associated with maintaining it in good condition. Therefore, in this article we will tell you:

  • What nuances of wooden houses a novice developer should know about.
  • Is it possible to spend the winter in a new log house.
  • How to properly operate a freshly delivered log house.

Features of a wooden blockhouse

When thinking about choosing building material for the construction country house, then how many people - so many opinions. A wooden house can be built from timber of natural moisture, dry profiled timber, glued timber, rounded or debarked logs.

Each material has its own fans and opponents. Without going into, let's say that most of the talk about the shortcomings of wooden houses is associated with a banal violation of the technology of their construction. The developer chooses the material that is cheaper, the workers assemble the blockhouse according to the principle "and so it will come down, we always do that." The result is a wooden house, as a portal user with a nickname aptly put it Smivan85,which after assembly must be finalized with a file.

Smivan85 FORUMHOUSE user

I thought for a long time what to build a house from. I considered both frame frames and adobe houses. As a result, we settled on a 7x9 m log house. To be honest, I did not particularly supervise the work of the brigade, and the foreman, who, as I thought, should be responsible for everything, turned out to be an ordinary agent. As a result, they put me a log house with many jambs. The most interesting thing is that the neighbors, looking at my house, believed that it should be so, because now all the builders are hackneyed, and this is not the worst option.

In fact, the log house has a curve geometry (parallelogram) and poorly made corners. There are no dowels either.

dimaelektro FORUMHOUSE Member

When building a log house, you need to use wooden, not metal (they rust, and the timber hangs during shrinkage) pins, for example, made from a handle from a rake with a diameter of 2.5 cm.The pins are hammered into pre-drilled and strictly vertical holes in a log or bar. The beam must be passed with a dowel through three crowns.

The dowel does not allow one beam or log to move relative to another in vertical plane, and also prevents the twisting of a bar or log around its own axis when the wood dries.

Also in the house Smivan85there are no beams under the floor joists, and they simply hang in the air with an interval of 1 m and a span of 6700 mm.

There are practically no overhangs at the roof.

The user has already spent more than 100 thousand rubles to fix the jambs of a freshly built log house. and there are still many improvements to be made.

Important: you can't let the construction of a house take its course... All processes must be monitored, and you should not rely on the foreman either, and you must independently understand all the nuances of construction.

If you neglect this rule, then instead of preparing a fresh wooden frame for grinding and treatment with antiseptics and paints and varnishes, you will have to spend energy and money on finalizing a semi-finished home.

Smivan85

Although I like my house, I concluded that such a structure is not the best option for a young family. Too much manual labor and a lot of time spent on correcting deficiencies. But the main thing is not to stand still, but to move forward, and then everything will work out.

Rebrova Marina Participant of FORUMHOUSE

In my opinion, the main problems of wooden houses are the poor quality of felling and unprofessional assembly. In addition, there are peculiarities of roof erection, installation of casing for installing windows and doors, caulking, painting, maintenance. A wooden house does not forgive mistakes, and all the shortcomings will appear, if not immediately, then during several years of operation. And most importantly, building a high-quality and comfortable wooden house is a very expensive pleasure.

Put good log house can only be specialists in their field, not shabashniki, and such masters highly value their work.

Rule one: so that a freshly placed log house does not become a continuous headache, before building it, you need to study specialized topics and articles on our portal... Wooden house building has a lot of features, primarily related to the fact that a wooden blockhouse is a "living" structure, subject to shrinkage (evaporation of excess moisture) and shrinkage. For example, depending on the moisture content and type of wood, as well as the assembly technology, a log house can shrink by 6-12%. For comparison, it gives a shrinkage of 1-2%. Those. this value must be included in the project in advance so that later it does not turn out that the ceiling is ultimately less than originally planned.

Usually it takes 1 year for the shrinkage of a new log house under a temporary roof. During this period of time, it is not worth doing fine finish houses.

Also, much depends on the moisture content of the wood used. The moisture content of a dry chamber-dried timber according to GOST 8242-88 should be about 14-16% and not exceed 18-20%. But the timber, even well dried in special chambers, where the temperature and humidity conditions are maintained, will in any case gain equilibrium humidity. Those. will take moisture from the environment, which, depending on the season, can vary from 14 to 22%.

Ordinary timber can also be dried naturally (in air) to an equilibrium moisture content of 18-20%. This process is uncontrolled, takes longer, and such lumber, in case of violation of the natural drying regime, more susceptible to warping, cracking and mildew.

Hence: the more massive the wood, for example, a debarked log of large diameter, and not a bar of 15x15 cm, the more time it will take to dry it in a new house.

Is it possible to immediately start living in a freshly placed log house

Above we indicated only general features wooden houses that directly depend on the material chosen for construction. After all, wood is a very capricious material, whose linear dimensions (diameter of a log, cross-section of a bar) are constantly changing depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment. You also need to come to terms with the fact that cracks in a log or in a bar are inevitable in a wooden house. The house needs to be bored, and at least twice - the first time after the installation of the log house, the second time after one and a half to two years, when the log house is almost completely down.

Now let's consider the following situation - the house is being built as a solution to the housing issue. The goal is to move into a cottage, even if not completely finished, so as not to pay for a rental apartment. Is the erection justified from this point of view wooden house?

Vikhrova FORUMHOUSE participant

We want to build a house from a log in order to solve the problem with housing and not give money for rent. I've been wondering if it is possible to spend the winter in a new log house with relative comfort. We plan to heat the house with electric and gas convectors.

The answer to this question depends on what is considered relative comfortable living... The fact is that a fresh log house (already matured) must be very carefully heated, slowly raising the temperature to + 10 ° С, then gradually to + 15 ° С and further to a comfortable temperature. If the temperature is raised immediately in winter, the moisture content of the wood will increase. A fresh blockhouse ("wet" wood) can no longer be sanded, antiseptic or painted, which means that the walls will remain unprotected. The wood can start to rot. The logs will begin to twist, and large cracks will go along them, large cracks will appear, from which cold air will siphon.

And this is not the whole list of problems. If you heat the house to a temperature of less than + 10 ° C, then you can completely forget about a comfortable life in a log house in winter.

Alexey Kos FORUMHOUSE user

To move in immediately, you need to build a wooden house made of laminated veneer lumber. It can be finished as a "biscuit". It looks beautiful and unusual.

Hut FORUMHOUSE user

I had to spend the winter in a log house. The house was heated with a Russian stove and a potbelly stove. The house was cut down in February and stood under the roof for the summer. With the onset of frost, the logs were actively drying, and they began to burst along the plane. The walls are flat, planed from the inside, longitudinal tears have gone along them. The blockhouse was going to use tow, and the corners were immediately blown through. I had to shut them up. The next autumn, before the second wintering, I made the first caulk. I don't pay attention to cracks, because it is a natural "decor". The blockhouse did not grow moldy and did not rot.

The uniformity of drying of the log house is a guarantee of the quality of the future wooden house. You cannot rush and disrupt natural processes.

Second rule: fresh a log house under a temporary roof, without installed windows and doors, must necessarily stand for about 1 year and gradually release moisture.

If you need to call in quickly, but there is little money, then better near with a freshly built log house, put an insulated change house, which you can then sell, or assemble a small frame house as a temporary hut.

Fresh log care

And at the end of the article, a few tips from users of the portal on the operation of a freshly placed log house.

Azeva FORUMHOUSE participant

I plan to first cover the newly delivered log house with a colorless wood preservative and leave it that way. While the log is damp, it does not lend itself well to grinding. Next year, the log house can already be properly sanded and painted.

A house or a bathhouse made of rounded logs (for readers interested in a timber for a bathhouse) is a widespread practice, to the point that you may not know anything about the subject at all, order a construction company on a turnkey basis and get the finished result. But you would hardly read our articles if everything suited you in this version.

And we ourselves believe that a good owner will definitely consider it necessary to delve into the subject, learn more about the material itself - which log is better for a bath, what size, diameter, how they differ, what properties they have. This knowledge is also useful in order to understand what the construction is from and to control some parameters or processes. And after that too - the blockhouse is not to say that it is capricious, but it still requires care.

So let's figure it out, and along the way, you see, we will dispel some myths.

Which is better

I would like to start with considering wood. And not immediately by breed, but so far only with conventional wisdom, what the best wood will be the one that was harvested in winter.

IMPORTANT! Antiseptics should be distinguished for internal and external work, and not to be confused with each other. It is worth processing the log after laying, and with the part that will not be available in the future, they do this - not a tree, but a jute gasket (for example) is impregnated with an antiseptic.

What breeds are suitable for a log house

As already mentioned, for the most part these will be conifers breeds. You will most often find them on the market and in the proposals of construction companies.

Of course, there is a lot of taiga in Russia, but the main reason will still be strength and disinclination to rot due to resins... And, of course, straightness of trunks - it is higher in conifers than in deciduous ones. All this applies not only to the aforementioned cheap pine and spruce, but also to the more expensive species - larch and cedar. You may also be offered a fir.

Of deciduous we would call oak, birch, aspen, alder and linden. But only it has sufficient strength and resistance to external influences. And it's very expensive.

Since we are talking about a bath, where heat softens the resin of conifers and makes it flow to the surface, there are two options: either partially use deciduous trees, to build a steam room, or sheathe a steam room from coniferous from deciduous.

Spruce has less resin and is lighter than pine. Larch and are noble breeds. Larch is not afraid of water, only it becomes stronger from it.

BTW! You should not delude yourself about the cedar - this is not at all the tree from which King Solomon built. Here you will find not Lebanese cedar, but Russian ... cedar pine. Here she is what we call "cedar".

Whom to choose? Focus on budget. If it allows - take larch, if not, then it will go. Although ... I would like to advise you not to trust the myths too much - under unfavorable conditions, larch may well rot, and under favorable conditions, it can stand for decades.

And it is worth warning that rounded log, into which the cone-shaped trunks turn, over time can present many unpleasant surprises. Especially from the same larch. If a log is taken atmospheric drying, then it quite often begins to lead over time. It can curl, bend, or just go deep cracks.

This can be avoided only if you take trunks that have been exposed to heat treatment. It is of two types - common and chamber. In the first case, uniform shrinkage is achieved, but with the preservation of the resin.

The second lasts much longer, and the output is wood with evaporated resin, which does not give no shrinkage, no torsional deformation, no buckling, no cracking... All this is extremely valuable, but only the price of such wood is too high.

Dimensions, diameter

Before we name the dimensions of a log for a bath, let's briefly go through what we know about the trunks. First, they tend to thin closer to the crown. Consequently, the upper diameter will be less than the lower saw cut diameter.

And for even laying cylindrical rather than tapered. Therefore, of the three types of barrel processing - cylindering, planing and scraping, the most even we get only in the first case, the minimum in the third, and the second - something in between.

In this case, the cylindering is given cheaper of all, since it is produced on machines, and the rest is associated with manual labor... Manual labor is more expensive than machine labor. But is a rounded log ideal for use?

There is nothing wrong with the operation itself, and it gives it a shape that is ideal for construction.

IMPORTANT only so that the wood itself is free from defects and is properly dried. In this case, everything will be fine.

Planed the option has one nuance: after all, when laying logs into the wall, you should adhere to the gost rule, according to which for each running meter a taper of 1 cm is allowed. (Let us explain: taper is a change in diameter.)

Have scraped off there is no need to wait for the option of complying with GOST on the concordance. And all the flaws remain there - changes in thickness are possible in places where branches grow, and the curvature of the trunk is not eliminated.

It is clear that the first and second options are preferred, but not the third.

Now about uniformity logs. There is also a rule about her:

ATTENTION! The permissible difference in the diameters of the crowns used in construction should not exceed 30 mm.

That is, it does not matter whether your diameters are large or small, the main thing is that they do not differ much from each other. Otherwise strength design will be in question.

As for the dimensions, the linear dimensions depend on the project and from climatic conditions terrainwhere the bathhouse will be located. You should also take into account that seasonality its use - thinner logs will do for a summer bathhouse than for an all-season one.

If the task is to do very light summer building - you need to take material with a diameter up to 18 cm... And it will also come in handy in all-season saunas to create partitions.

More solid summer (!) the bath can be supplied from a log with a diameter 18-22 cm.

For all-season bath diameters are suitable from 22 to 28 cm... Large numbers are applicable where it comes to objects of a large area or climatic zones with very low temperatures, where logs can be up to 36 cm in diameter (at -45 degrees, that's it).

How many pieces do you need

There is nothing difficult in the task of calculating how many logs you need for a bath. Let's describe the solution in stages:

  1. We look at the plan () and write down the lengths of all walls. If you take a smaller diameter on the partition, then count the partitions separately.
  2. Add up the lengths of the walls. The resulting figure is the total length of one conventional crown.
  3. Decide what diameter the logs will be.
  4. The height of the bath is included in the project. Divide the height by the diameter of one crown. The resulting figure is the number of crowns.
  5. We multiply the length of the conditional crown by the number of crowns. We get the total length of all logs.
  6. The length of one standard rounded log is 6 meters. We divide the resulting length of all logs by the length of one log. The final figure is the amount of material to be bought.
  7. Gables are counted in the same way.

Bath of large and huge logs

Baths made of large and huge logs, we would refer to design projects. Because there is clearly not so much a building need as aesthetic preference... The owner of such a bath clearly likes fabulous, epic times when heroes walked the earth 🙂 And indeed the building will inspire just such feelings, even when it comes to the bath.

Note, our opinion is that this idea has little functional meaning and often arouses critical reviews, due to the inappropriate destruction of valuable ancient trees.

It would be nice if the project was done by a professional, because it is he who has to find the ideal ratio between the dimensions of the bath itself and the diameter of the logs. Because grotesque proportions are not dear to the eye.

The tree from which crowns with a diameter of more than 30 cm are made should grow for three hundred years, no less. Such logs for the bath must be selected piece, sometimes designers deliberately use barrels without cylindering - this enhances the feeling of antiquity and fabulousness. However, laying them in a log house will require great skill from the builders. In most cases, the choice is between cedar and larch.

In general, this is a wonderful and expensive idea, which should be implemented on a large plot with a good landscape design... Better yet, maybe not worth it at all.

Lower crown

Of course, in one article, the specifics of wooden construction will hardly be able to somehow reveal, but the fact that the lower log in the bath differs from the subsequent logs is worth mentioning.

  • First, it is done by several more all other crowns in the frame.
  • Secondly, it does not completely round shape in section. To ensure full adherence to the foundation, it is cut from the bottom edging, whose width should not be less 15-20 cm... The second edging is cut from the inside of the room and has the same dimensions.

Outside, the crown is desirable to protect ebb, which will not allow moisture precipitation to fall on it.

Processing inside the bath

Protection of the log house is needed from all sides, but from the outside it is simpler, more precisely, there are simply no restrictions that operate inside, since we are talking about a bath. The fact is that the compounds that should be used for treatment are often poisonous, especially with regard to antiseptic impregnations. And in the bathhouse it is hot and humid, so the substances with which the logs are saturated will enter the air that you breathe, which surrounds your skin.

Therefore, now we will only say about the permissible processing of logs inside the bath. However, it will differ depending on the premises. So for the dressing room or hallway there are no restrictions on the use of toxic antiseptics. The rest room can also be treated with them.

TIP! Choosing an antiseptic for internal works, check with the seller or Google that we are talking about the bath.

IN washing you should use formulations that are not afraid of water, and most antiseptics are water-soluble.

IN steam room you can use bleach based on bleach - it will both brighten the surface of the wood and serve. You can use the steam room only after the chlorine smell disappears.

In the future, you can make a simple moisture protection, because mold settles on wet wood. For moisture protection, use compositions based on oil and / or wax, or Finnish acrylic lacquers for the sauna, to which they add antiseptics acceptable for the steam room.

Seams can be filled wood sealant, and the very surface of the logs is simply grind, to bring out a beautiful "moire" texture. Painting is acceptable almost everywhere, but in the steam room it is worth using only those paints that are intended for it. In the washroom, paints suitable for bathrooms will work. About paints for a bath with us.

How to caulk

The idea of \u200b\u200bcaulking a sauna from logs suggests that not all sauna owners are familiar with modern means sealing joints (or not considered the best). Traditional the methods, of course, are time-tested, but they are very laborious and require periodic labor-intensive renewal, since the log house is constantly slowly changing its dimensions during the first 20 years of life.

Concerning materials, it is usually used for caulking moss, tow, jute and linen. However, below we provide a link to a video of a master who categorically does not advise caulking with jute, because it picks up moisture well. He considers linen to be the optimal material. Moss is traditional, but not common everywhere.

Tow comes in different qualities. The one that is worse has all kinds of straw inclusions. Masters do not recommend using it either, because some of it will crumble over time. Good quality linseed tow is an excellent material for caulking.

Flax - a quilted cloth, somewhat reminiscent of jute, but different from it in quality. Convenient for work and is not inferior to tow in terms of thermal insulation properties.


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