how to cut expanded clay blocks?

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8 (115658) 8 15 115 5 years

are they sawed? we chopped them with an ax
Well, you want it beautifully - probably a disc over a stone. Stone, after all) With a big flex.
I do not advise you with a hacksaw, you will blunt it instantly. But if you don't mind ..

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7 (92208) 34 176 787 5 years

Cutting large-format wall blocks is an inevitable process when building walls. It is necessary to cut blocks when erecting window and door openings, gables, and in the process of erecting a solid wall, cutting is indispensable. Various tools are used for cutting, and which tool is suitable for what depends on the type of blocks.

Expanded clay concrete hollow blocks can be cut with a grinder (angle grinder) with a cutting wheel diameter of 230 mm. The cut-off wheel should be metal segmented with diamond dust on the cutting part. If you use a non-segmented cutting wheel, then it can fly apart during the sawing process from overheating, this does not happen with a segmented wheel, since the slots in it allow the sectors (segments) of the cutting wheel to deform freely when heated. The disadvantage is that the cut is only 55 mm deep, even if you cut the block from all sides, it will eventually have to be chipped off, but having slots around the perimeter, this will be quite easy to do. You can insert an ax into the slot and hit it with a hammer, or you can put wooden barok and forcefully lower the block onto it with a cutting line - a fairly effective way.

Better of course, cut expanded clay concrete blocks with a DeWalt alligator saw for cutting bricks. DeWalt also has a whole series of alligator saws for cutting foam concrete, bricks and large-format Porotherm ceramic blocks. Alligator from DeWalt will perfectly cope not only with blocks, but also with bricks, so if funds allow, it is better to purchase it. There are also Russian analogues of such saws, for example, the Perm "alligator" is several times cheaper than the Devoltovsky one, in terms of professional tool may not work, but for one house, I think such a saw should be enough.

Foam concrete blocks can be cut with a special hand-held hacksaw for cutting foam concrete - a hacksaw with a thick metal blade and hard-alloy solders on the teeth (similar to a hacksaw for wood). Such a hacksaw cuts quite well, the only minus is that you will have to cut, more precisely, saw, with handles, and this is a decent waste of time and energy, although if there is nowhere to rush ...

The DeVoltovsky alligator will also be the best cutting tool, but the price for it greatly limits the purchase of this tool in Russia. Many adapt to cutting foam blocks with Russian "alligators" or simply with saber saws, which are several times cheaper than alligators, using special saw blades for cutting foam blocks (including blades for an alligator, which are sharpened to the desired type of attachment).

Ceramic porous blocks of the “Porotherm” type can only be cut with an “alligator” saw. Reciprocating saw is unlikely to cope here, but I do not advise extreme with a grinder - I cut in a respirator and goggles, in the heat, tin. In principle, you can cut with a grinder, only it will be a very long and tedious process with constant very careful chipping of the parts that interfere with cutting, plus a huge amount of dust and small fragments flying under clothes and shoes. By the way, manufacturers of ceramic blocks recommend the "alligator" of "DeWalt" company, I think that they do not recommend it in vain. The price bites, but the saw is worthwhile, especially if you are a bricklayer and you need it for work.

If you want to cut a block into two equal parts along the length (wall width), and the quality of the cut is not important, for example, for covering floor slabs around the perimeter, then the block can not be cut at all, but simply split it. For these purposes, I used a canvas from an old hacksaw for wood and a hammer. Due to the voids, the block is pricked quite easily, each internal partition is sequentially pierced, one after the other - as a result, we get two front halves.

Under no circumstances use a chainsaw to cut blocks, even foam concrete blocks. Not a single chain will survive, even if you cut foam concrete, and the dust from the cutting will simply kill the chainsaw mechanism - grains of sand will get into the gearbox, gears and bearings will simply wear out.

take Chieftec, FSP from the middle class, they really showed themselves well and work at the declared capacity and in some cases even exceed it, and the price is more or less affordable.

forget about Codegen in general, Chinese consumer goods are hollow, the power in them does not correspond to reality, therefore they cost 10 lats

Perhaps the capacitors are dry. From the heat.
It is strange that the plugs were knocked out - there are 2 fuses in the blocks - fusible and semiconductor.

Disassemble, see what burned out - it will give a picture. Yes, and sometimes there are cockroaches in them. They crawl under the board itself, which is screwed to the block body inside it. The contacts are closed (the high frequency of 20 kHz at which the unit operates, it is easier to pass through the cockroach than the 5-Hz network). The insect is fried, the block is burned.

Perhaps the voltage fuse has collapsed (green flat disc with contact wires) and closed the circuit - this happens from surges.

When you turn on the vacuum cleaner, when the refrigerator motor turns on, there are pickups above 230 volts in the network.

There are only yellow transformer tapes ... Throw out the block. Don't fix it. More dear to yourself. You will buy the next one - it costs 24 lats. It will be better. Now they all come with improved cooling, blowing from the bottom, and it is quieter, and their pulse shaper chip is more perfect.

Does it seem to me or is this the most commonplace charger for a laptop? There are no stopoodoff stores

Everest is not really a power supply, but you can test the heating;)

Window block assembly technology. Installation of plastic windows in expanded clay concrete blocks

House of expanded clay concrete blocks: step-by-step construction instructions

Perhaps there is not a single family that would not dream of a cozy, warm home. Often dreams are shattered about the realities of life associated with the material side of the issue. In such cases, you should pay attention to the house made of expanded clay concrete blocks. In the construction market, products from this lightweight concrete have not lost their popularity for several decades due to their favorable price-quality ratio. Let's consider in more detail the characteristics of the building material, the technology of working with it. We will figure out how to build a house from expanded clay concrete blocks so that it warms not only us, but also our children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren with heat.

House of expanded clay concrete blocks

Expanded clay concrete - characteristics, advantages, disadvantages

Products made of lightweight concrete, the main filler of which are fired clay pellets, are in high demand in the construction of private houses of small storey, as well as in the construction of country houses and auxiliary buildings. Expanded clay is lightweight, environmentally friendly, porous and, at the same time, very durable material.

When binding the pellets with cement mortar, products are obtained that have many positive aspects:

The advantages that do not affect the quality of work, but improve the mood when purchasing material and during the production of construction activities, include:

• low cost of production. Using readily available components in the manufacture allows you to maintain a price range available to most developers;
• ease of masonry. Small size and weight individual elements allow for installation at an accelerated pace;
• increased surface roughness, which improves adhesion to finishing compounds and facilitates cladding work.

Having studied the advantages, one can make a hasty conclusion that a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks is ideal. Owner reviews largely confirm this opinion.

But when choosing a building material, you should not close your eyes to the shortcomings, which include:

Studying the advantages and disadvantages will help to properly prepare for construction activities.

Calculator of expanded clay concrete blocks at home

One of the preparatory stages of construction is the design stage. After the development and approval of the project, it is necessary to calculate the need for materials. You can determine the required amount of building material yourself. Take for example cottage from expanded clay concrete blocks with dimensions of 10x20 m and a ceiling height of 3 m.

The calculation can be done in two ways:

• by area;
• by volume.

When calculating the required number of elements according to the first option, we act according to the following algorithm:

1. Determine the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls. In our case - (10 + 10 + 20 + 20) x3 \u003d 180 m².
2. We calculate the number of units of production per 1 m². For an element with dimensions of 400x200x200 mm, these are 12.5 pieces (1 / 0.4x0.2 \u003d 12.5).
3. We multiply the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls and the quantity by 1 m² - we get the required number of units of production - 180x12.5 \u003d 2250 pieces.

How many expanded clay blocks do you need to build a house

The second variant of the calculation is similar to the first, only when carrying out the calculations, they operate not with indicators of areas, but with the values \u200b\u200bof the volumes of masonry and one unit of production.

It should be emphasized that the calculation process does not take into account window and door openings. This was done deliberately to take into account the loss of building materials during the work.

We build a house from expanded clay concrete blocks

Having dealt with the characteristics, advantages and disadvantages of products, having studied the methods for calculating the need for building materials and making its purchase, you can proceed to construction works... To build a strong and durable house from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands, adhere to proven technologies.

The general construction algorithm includes:

• foundation construction;
• walling;
• arrangement of the roof;
• waterproofing, insulation, cladding.

Let's dwell on each item in more detail.

When choosing the type of foundation, first of all, it is necessary to focus on the structure and composition of the soil, as well as the level of groundwater.

Foundation for a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks

Of the whole variety of foundations for lightweight concrete structures, only three types are suitable:

• tape;
• pile;
• slab.

After analyzing the soil at the construction site, you can determine which of the foundations will be preferable. The slab base is justified on unstable soils prone to movement. Due to its large area and increased strength, it is able to compensate for bending loads and prevent cracking of the material during soil shifts. But there is a nuance that you need to know about - the slab base is laborious in the arrangement.

The pile foundation has many advantages when erected on soils prone to frost heaving. It is also irreplaceable in cases where it is necessary to build a building on a plot with a slope. But the pile foundation unevenly distributes the loads arising from soil shifts. Therefore, when choosing a screw structure for a house made of lightweight concrete, carefully weigh the pros and cons.

Optimal, with a low groundwater level, is a strip foundation.

It has a number of advantages over other types of bases:

• evenly distributes loads, which prevents cracking;
• allows you to fill it yourself, since no large-sized equipment is required during the work;
• allows the arrangement of a full-fledged basement.

How to fill a strip foundation

Carry out the work on pouring the strip foundation according to the following algorithm:

1. Plan your site surface. Uproot trees and bushes. Remove small vegetation by hand or using chemicals.
2. Mark the base using pegs and rope.
3. Dig a trench to a depth greater than the freezing point of the soil. Trim the sides and bottom of the trench.
4. Prepare and install the formwork. For formwork, you can use trim boards or use plywood panels.
5. Fill the trench with a crushed stone-sand mixture. Perform ramming.
6. Assemble the reinforcement cage. The connection of metal bars can be done by welding or knitting wire.
7. Prepare concrete mortar according to the recipe. Use a concrete solution not lower than M400 grade for work.
8. Pour the finished compound into the trench. Compact the solution thoroughly to remove air bubbles.
9. Level the surface. Cover with plastic to maintain moisture.
10. After completing the hardening process, remove the formwork.
11. Waterproof the foundation.

After the base has gained strength, proceed to the construction of the box.

Wall masonry

Professionals advise using adhesives when laying expanded clay concrete blocks

Wall erection works two-storey house from expanded clay concrete blocks in the same way as country house from expanded clay concrete blocks, carry out according to the general algorithm:

1. Lay the first row. Start laying from the corner area.
2. Check the horizontal position with a level.
3. Lay the next row, offsetting the elements from the bottom level by a third or half of the thickness.
4. Reinforce the masonry every 3-4 rows. Use metal rods or a reinforcing mesh for this.
5. Reinforce door and window openings.
6. Carry out concreting of the armored belt on the upper level to install the roof structure.

At the end of the work, proceed with the installation of the roof.

Roof arrangement

The roof, like the foundation, is the guarantee of the durability of the structure. Before proceeding with the installation of the roof, think over the design, select suitable material overlap. It is not worth saving when choosing a roofing material.

It is important that it be:

• durable;
• durable;
• resistant to natural factors;
• environmentally friendly.

Home roofing

Prepare the following materials for roof installation:

• wooden beam 150x150 mm for Mauerlat;
• edged board for lathing;
• roofing material;
• hardware for fastening structural elements.

Assemble the frame and secure the roofing material according to the documentation.

Warming a house from expanded clay concrete blocks

Buildings made of expanded clay concrete need insulation. Developers often have the question of how to insulate a house from expanded clay concrete blocks. To maintain a comfortable microclimate, it is advisable to install thermal insulation both inside and outside. Such an integrated approach to insulation will reduce the cost of maintaining a favorable temperature.

How to insulate a house from expanded clay concrete blocks outside

For external insulation, it is important to choose the optimal heat insulator.

Insulation of walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks

The most common insulation materials include:

• styrofoam. It is characterized by a low price, ease of installation, ease of finishing. Disadvantages - flammability and gnawing damage

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Diy claydite block laying

Hello everyone! The construction of buildings from expanded clay concrete blocks in its technology is similar to the construction of the usual brick, but it also has some features. Next, we will just consider what you should pay attention to during the preparation and laying of expanded clay blocks with your own hands.

Tools and materials

In the process of construction, in addition to expanded clay concrete blocks (we considered how to choose the right expanded clay blocks here), you cannot do without:

• Roulette, building level, plumb line, trowel, trowel, jointing and rubber mallet;
• grinders with a circle for stone work;
• containers and shovels or compact concrete mixers for preparing masonry mixture;
• steel or fiberglass reinforcement either steel / nylon / fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
• personal protective equipment (gloves, glasses, respirator).

In addition to expanded clay concrete blocks, we need brick or concrete M 300 - 350 and reinforcement for the formation of an armature belt on which it will rely rafter system.

The masonry mortar is mixed in the following proportion - cement (1 part), river and quarry sand (3 parts), water (about 30% of the volume of the dry mixture).

Preparatory stage

When developing a construction project from expanded clay concrete blocks, it is necessary to immediately calculate the length of the walls in terms of solid blocks, taking into account the masonry joints. The width of the seam horizontally and vertically should be at least 10 mm, this makes it possible to compensate for errors in the geometry and dimensions of blocks that are inevitable in the manufacture of this piece material.

Also, at the design stage, the type of blocks is selected - for the main walls of a house of two or three floors, it is better to use solid blocks, a light building can be built from hollow elements. Partition hollow blocks with good sound insulation are ideal for interior partitions.

Please note: if you decide to do without external wall cladding, laying them out of the front expanded clay block, you will need to use special glue, as well as ready-made semi-blocks and other elements for aesthetic masonry, also keep in mind that facing blocks are much worse for cutting.

On preparatory stage a scheme for laying expanded clay blocks is being developed - it is customary to use the classic version with a shift in half the block (similar to brickwork), or move each subsequent row to one side by 10 cm.

Masonry technology of expanded clay concrete blocks

Concrete foundation must fully grasp and stand. Before starting masonry work, it must be leveled with a thin-layer concrete screed or bitumen, then a double layer is laid roll waterproofing (as roll insulator you can use roofing material) around the perimeter and in the places where partitions are installed. If you are interested in reading how to properly waterproof the foundation, then you can do it here.

Important: the construction of external walls and internal partitions is carried out simultaneously! For cutting blocks, it is most convenient to use a grinder with a stone cutting disc. It is recommended to prepare the working mixture in small portions in order to avoid a partially set composition - this will negatively affect the reliability of the masonry.

On top of the waterproofing, starting from the corners, lay the first row of blocks. It is recommended to pre-stretch the cords or mark along waterproofing materialso that the blocks line up clearly and that all intersections create right angles. Do not forget to check the correct installation of each block with a small building level. The check is carried out in all directions.

When laying the second and subsequent rows of blocks, with a shift of half a block or 10 cm, do not forget to control the thickness of the seams, it should not be less than 1 cm.

From the outside of the wall, immediately plaster while cement mortar not seized, and the seams are made concave - this will simplify the plastering of the surface.

The masonry is reinforced every four rows. If you are using full-bodied blocks, it is best to use a grid. Hollow blocks allow the installation of 10 mm reinforcing rods, while the metal reinforcement is more reliable, and the installation of fiberglass rods allows you to do without unnecessary heat loss through the walls in the future. Also, do not forget to reinforce the rows that are above and below the window and doorways.

It is extremely important to carefully check the geometry of the walls after installing each block, since it is impossible to make adjustments after the mortar has set. When laying, apply the mortar with a trowel to the vertical end of the previous block and to the horizontal edge of the lower row with a tape one and a half blocks long. Further, the piece element is placed on the mortar 5 cm from the end of the previous one, and is pushed into place with the capture of the working mixture. Expanded clay blocks do not withstand shock load well, so they should be knocked out at the installation site with a rubber mallet, and not with an ordinary hammer. Excess mortar is immediately carefully trimmed.

After the construction of the last row of walls and partitions, an armature belt is mounted, which will evenly distribute the load from the roof to the block masonry. The reinforcing belt should have a height of 20 cm, and the width should be less than the width of the block wall by the thickness of the heat insulator from the outside - concrete and brick are inferior in terms of thermal insulation properties to expanded clay concrete. Reinforce the brickwork with a steel mesh, if monolithic concrete is chosen for the reinforcement belt, you will need to first mount the wooden formwork and fix the reinforcement cage from wire.

The technology of erecting walls from facing blocks has its own characteristics. Such blocks have a strict geometry and groove - ridge connection. Their installation involves the use of special glue - foam, so that the elements adhere to each other as accurately as possible, and the finished masonry has an aesthetic appearance.

At the factory, you can order half-blocks, quarter-blocks and additional elements made of expanded clay concrete with a facing layer, including figured ones, for the formation of arches and other structures.

postroju-dom.ru

Expanded clay concrete - advantages and disadvantages, use in construction.

Expanded clay concrete is a unique material that does not rust, burn or rot. But this is in short. In fact, there is quite a lot to tell about this building material, which I am going to do in this article.

Raw materials for blocks of expanded clay concrete

The composition of expanded clay concrete mainly includes expanded clay - an environmentally friendly raw material, which is foamed and fired in a special way.

During the manufacturing process, the clay, added in the correct ratio, turns into a kind of solidified foam. The baked shell that covers the formed granule guarantees a porous material high density and compressive strength. As a result, expanded clay is the main type of large-porous aggregates (coarse fractions), the preparation of which does not cause any difficulties for a modern manufacturer. How to prepare such a block with your own hands, using the correct proportions, recipes and composition selection? This is a topic for a completely different article.

Advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks

Expanded clay concrete, manufactured in accordance with GOST, surpasses conventional lightweight concrete grades both in sound and heat insulation characteristics, and in chemical and moisture resistance. But first things first.

In comparison with the use of conventional materials, the use of expanded clay concrete blocks accelerates the time of wall erection by 4-5 times. At the same time, two times less mortar is required on the wall, plus the weight of the products is reduced by 1.5 times, per square meter of high-class concrete masonry.

Expanded clay concrete has a high thermal conductivity, which makes it versatile when used in cold and warm climatic conditions... Specialists have repeatedly carried out all kinds of tests of dry expanded clay gravel (aggregate material), which showed the fact that the use of this aggregate, as well as expanded clay itself, reduces heat loss by 75 percent and does not insulate the walls with any expensive insulation.

The material is breathable, that is, active air exchange and vapor permeability allows you to regulate and stabilize the level of humidity in the room.

Expanded clay blocks are distinguished by a fair durability, even if no maintenance is carried out. The material does not rust, does not burn, does not rot, and also has a low water absorption. It, at the same time, contains positive traits stone and wood, which is a great advantage for those who are going to build a bathhouse, garage, basement from this material, or use it for roofing.

Disadvantages of expanded clay concrete blocks

The disadvantages include the fact that you simply will not find instructions on how to make a claydite-concrete block with your own hands. It is, in principle, possible to make an appropriate technology in the network, including the correct consumption of materials (including the consumption of cement), the final thickness, proportions per 1 m3, a competent recipe, volume fractions, etc. Another disadvantage could be called the price per m3. For the same cost (per cube), you can buy many more bricks with delivery. But here it is worth making a reservation. The fact is that thermal insulation, sound insulation and other indicators of blocks are so superior to brick (both according to reviews on forums and in practice) that in order to achieve similar indicators, brick wall, you will have to buy a lot more bricks and build a much thicker wall, much more mass, which will not be beneficial indoor areas... According to these indicators of expanded clay concrete, it is possible to compare only with the pouring of monolithic walls and monolithic floors with reinforcement (using an armored belt).

Comparison with bricks

If we compare expanded clay concrete blocks with bricks, then our material has a lot of advantages. specific gravity cube of expanded clay concrete blocks is 2.5 times lower than that of bricks. - Vibro-compressed blocks contain much less cement. - One standard block by its own technical specifications can replace up to seven bricks. - A highly skilled bricklayer will be able to lay three times the volume of a wall from blocks than from bricks per shift.

The ecological properties of the blocks are on the same level with the brick ones, that is, the question of whether this material is harmful is not raised. - The cost of work in low-rise building construction when using expanded clay concrete blocks instead of bricks is reduced by 30-40 percent. - The block is slightly larger than the standard one. "One and a half" brick, however, such block sizes guarantee the convenience of its storage and transportation, as well as ease of use without the use of special devices and fixtures. - The laying of expanded clay concrete block does not differ from ceramic brickwork, however, it is noticeably lighter and more comfortable. As a result, the construction of block walls is available not only to a professional, but also to a private developer.

Material Regulatory Requirements

The regulatory requirements for the thermal parameters of the material for the construction of the walls of modern buildings were increased with the release of SNiP-I-3-79. Design and development and research institutes urgently began to look for possible solutions, since the new standards required even wooden walls have a thickness of at least half a meter. At this stage, the developers came up with the idea of \u200b\u200bbuilding multi-layer walls, the load-bearing element of which was a layer of heavy concrete sold in bags. The thermal insulation layer in this project was made of organic polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam boards, as well as wood concrete. It soon became clear that such walls in the process of operation accumulate a large amount of harmful by-products of the destruction of thermal insulation, as a result of which sanitary conditions and comfort of living deteriorate. Also, the materials used turned out to be short-lived, as a result of which such a wall would have to be repaired after a short period of time, which was explained by the destruction of the thermal insulation layers and, as a consequence, large heat losses.

A way out of the situation was a house made of expanded clay concrete, which was based on fine-grained expanded clay gravel (5-10 millimeters). The production of reinforced concrete structures is carried out on modern vibratory presses, after which they undergo heat treatment, achieving good thermal insulation and strength. In expanded clay concrete blocks there are through voids, which allows you to equip a hidden frame in the body of the wall, thereby increasing the bearing capacity. As already mentioned, the blocks are very durable and can be used not only in small, but also in high-rise construction. The thermal conductivity of this material is several times lower than the thermal conductivity of ordinary concrete. Moreover, the cost of the material is much less.

The use of lightweight aggregate blocks

Expanded clay blocks are environmentally friendly, architecturally expressive and climatic adaptation to Russian conditions. The use of this material is possible without plastering and shading of internal facades, which allows you to completely exclude wet processes from construction. The variety of combination textures and shapes of blocks allows the architect to use his imagination to 100 percent. Facades of expanded clay concrete buildings do not need external finishing. Wall panels and decorative blocks are characterized by the highest frost resistance, durability and aesthetic surface texture. The experience of using blocks has shown that the construction of low-rise buildings from this material does not require special additional structural solutions. The variety of shapes and precise consistency of block sizes allows you to ideally combine this material with all types of small-piece building materials, metal structures, reinforced concrete products, window and door openings.

More about expanded clay concrete blocks

Unfortunately, the Russian manufacturer does not pay enough attention to expanded clay concrete blocks, despite the fact that the material has much more advantages than disadvantages. According to various estimates, the construction of modern complexes from this material at Russian sites is 7-10 percent of the total volume. In all other cases, the technology of the "flooded house" type is practiced, that is, the floor is screed, floors are poured, walls are poured, panels are installed, etc. For comparison, foreign lightweight aggregate concrete house building occupies 40 percent of the total construction volume. Blocks made of expanded clay are especially popular in countries such as the Czech Republic, Holland, Germany, Sweden, Denmark, etc. In Scandinavian countries, this material even has a special name - "bioblocks". Expanded clay concrete is used abroad in projects for the construction of floor slabs, foundations, "monolith" structures, partitions and lintels.

domisad.org

When it comes to installing windows in a honeycomb house, two different approaches to fastening technology collide.

Proponents of polyurethane foam claim that this material is so reliable and leakproof that it does not require the use of fittings. Admirers of dowels, on the other hand, rely on mechanical contact between metal and blocks.

Truth, as is often the case, is in the middle of polar opinions.

Therefore, we decided to consider in detail the features quality installation windows in aerated concrete and foam concrete walls.

When is the best time to install plastic windows?

There is no consensus on this issue. Newbie developers ask when it is possible to install windows in a house made of aerated concrete or foam block. They are given advice, one more ridiculous than the other. Some argue that cellular blocks have a very large shrinkage and windows can be installed only a year after the construction of the box.

Others try to bring a "scientific" basis under this statement and argue from three types of shrinkage of gas silicate and foam block. At the same time, all advisors amicably ignore the manufacturers' data. They clearly state that the natural shrinkage of cellular blocks does not exceed 0.3 mm per 1 meter of wall height. Therefore, there is no need to talk about its critical impact on window frames. The confusion arises from the substitution of the concepts of lightweight concrete shrinkage and building settlement.

Deformation settlement of the structure (walls and foundation) does not occur due to the evaporation of moisture from concrete and blocks. It is caused by uneven subsidence and rise of the soil under the influence of freezing and thawing water in it. It is from such shrinkage that you need to protect bearing structures... For the foundation, frames made of reinforcement are used, and for walls made of aerated concrete and foam blocks, they are poured at the level intermediate floors... If these measures are not taken, then cracks in the walls and foundations during construction on weak and water-saturated soils are guaranteed.

What practical conclusions can be drawn from our theoretical reasoning?

Very simple: you can put windows in a house made of gas or foam concrete blocks 2-3 months after the walls are finished. This period is enough for the foundation to gain the necessary strength.

Someone may object, saying that the house must stand for at least 1 year before the installation of windows and finishes, so that the soil stabilization processes are completed. We will answer that the process of soil movement is continuous. Therefore, one must hope not for the complete completion of the building's settlement, but for the quality of construction - a solid foundation and load-bearing walls.

The nuances of high-quality installation of windows in aerated concrete and foam blocks

Let's say right away that it is not difficult to insert a plastic window into the foam block. It is much more difficult to ensure the windproof and durability of the joints between the wall and the plastic frame.

To do this, you need to fulfill three conditions:

• Seam tightness.
• Protection of the contact area from heat loss.
• Mechanical strength of "window-wall" contact.

The tightness of the seams can be partially ensured by quarters - protrusions that are cut into blocks. In addition, you have to use sealing materials - frost-resistant sealants or self-expanding tape (PSUL). The contact area of \u200b\u200bthe frame with the wall is insulated in the traditional way - with polyurethane-based foam. Dowels or mounting plates are responsible for the mechanical strength of the fastening.

Fix window frame in the opening in two ways:

1. After removing the glazing, drill into plastic profile hole for a long dowel-nail, attach the frame to the wall with it and put the glass unit in place.
2. Without removing the glazing, fix the anchor plates with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter of the frame. After that, you need to install the window in the installation position and fix it to the wall with dowel-nails through the holes in the plates.

Installation plastic windows in a house made of aerated concrete, the first method has its drawbacks: dismantling and installing a double-glazed window is laborious, and the position of the frame in the opening after fixing it cannot be changed. The second method of installation is more convenient, since, if necessary, the position of the window before blowing in the foam can be changed and only after that it can be finally fixed.

The standard installation of windows in aerated concrete begins with the installation of spacers made of plastic or wood under the frame. They are necessary to create a gap into which the insulation foam will blow.

Before this operation, the mounting plates must be fixed to the frame. To do this, use self-tapping screws 19 mm long and 4.8 mm in diameter.

The installation depth of the window can be from 8 to 12 cm (from the edge of the frame to the edge of the opening) and depends on the thickness of the wall (20 or 30 cm). If the outer part of the masonry will be insulated, then the window can be placed closer to the outer edge of the opening to the thickness of the insulation.

Indentation indicated is not chosen for aesthetic reasons. appearance windows, and because of the need to protect the frames from moisture condensation and freezing (the dew point should be outside the frame).

Having adjusted the position of the glass unit with the help of a level, holes are drilled in the blocks for the dowels (with a hammerless drill). From the edge of the block, the extreme hole of the plate should be at least 5 cm away so as not to split it. First, the plate is fixed with one dowel (diameter 6 mm, length 80-100 mm). After final alignment, screw in the second one.

After making sure that the window sashes can be easily opened and closed, they start foaming the joint around the entire perimeter of the frame. For this job, it is better to take frost-resistant foam with a low coefficient of expansion. This will increase the durability of the insulation and reduce the pressure on the frame. To improve the quality of adhesion of the foam to the block and the window, before blowing it out, the entire seam must be treated with water from a sprayer.

After the foam hardens, its excess, protruding outward, is cut off. The adjusting wedges are removed and the resulting voids are foamed. After completing these operations, the outer joint of the frame with the block is sealed with an expanding tape (PSUL) or protected with a frost-resistant breathable putty. Another common option is to install a waterproofing tape around the perimeter of the opening with adhesive sealant.

Sealing with sealing tape

The inner joint is treated with putty, carefully leveling it over the entire contact area with the insulation.

The installation is completed by the installation of an ebb and a window sill. An important nuance of this work is the correct placement of the holes in the plastic profile, along which the condensate from the window goes outside. They should be above the low tide so that moisture does not get onto the blocks.

In conclusion, I would like to say about the quarters that protect the joints of plastic windows from blowing and freezing. Any cellular concrete is well cut, so during the laying process, you can make quarters of the desired size in it in advance.

Another option is to install dense (extruded) foam quarters. It insulates the slopes and the frame well, but it is rather difficult to finish, since it needs to install a mesh and high-quality putty. The foam is attached to glue and additionally fixed to the blocks with plastic dowels with wide caps.

Walls built from expanded clay concrete blocks have good strength characteristics comparable to brick ones. The adhesive properties of this material with others based on cements are also good, therefore, there are few fundamental differences from brickwork. It is permissible to arrange a small one-story room made of expanded clay blocks yourself, without a preliminary project. However, you need to know some features, follow the guide and step by step carry out the entire construction technology.

Before starting the construction, it is necessary to prepare the following tools: a tape measure, a level, a plumb line, a rubber mallet hammer, a trowel for applying mortar, a cord for the purpose of marking, a square, an electric tool for cutting blocks and grooves for reinforcement.

Where to start laying blocks is from preparing the base on which it is supposed to be erected. The surface of the foundation should be as flat as possible so that the difference in height between the corners of the building does not exceed 3 cm. To do this, arrange a leveling layer of cement composition. After that, you need to lay out the cutting-off waterproofing of the foundation from the masonry of the walls so that there is no capillary suction of water from the foundation.

We lay the first row

Laying of expanded clay concrete blocks can be carried out both with special glue and with conventional DSP. However, if it is planned to use additional insulation of the facade, there is no need for adhesives with low thermal conductivity. The average thickness of the seams should be 12 mm.

Note: during construction in the winter season, frost-resistant additives should be put in the solution, according to the instructions.

The laying of the first row starts from the corner of the foundation, and from the highest one. This is determined by the leveling method. But when erecting walls with your own hands, you can limit yourself to the building level. The first expanded clay block must be placed on the minimum layer of the composition, leveled as much as possible in the plane according to the plan, as well as vertically and horizontally, using a level. Then the corner blocks are left for a while for the mortar to set. Thus, the laid element becomes a kind of beacon to which the entire row is led.

Laying of the second and subsequent rows

Step-by-step instructions for laying expanded clay blocks:

1. To mark the site according to the layout, to mark the places of window and door openings.

2. At the corners of the walls, install a vertical strip with markings along the height of the rows. It is allowed to do without it, often they just use a "mason's corner". Pull the mooring line under the new row.

3. Transfer the number of blocks and ready-made mortar required for one row directly to working area... Provide free access to auxiliary tools.

4. Apply a layer of glue, lay a brick on it.

Note: when laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands for the first time, it is better to start with spreading the composition only under one block, in the future, with the development of skill, it will be possible to lay 3-4 blocks at a time.

5. Level using a level and lightly tapping with a suitable tool (you can use a trowel to distribute the adhesive mixture).

6. Lay the next brick.

Laying schemes, dressing and adjoining

The laying of expanded clay concrete walls begins from the corners, the blocks are carefully leveled, and the solution is given time to set. Then a mooring cord is tied to the corners, and the entire row is laid out along it. The last element is usually non-standard, it needs to be sawed off to size.

Note: the height of self-supporting walls should not exceed 3.5 m, and the free length should not exceed 8 m.

Walls can be of different designs, the most common are:

• In one row (half a block thick), such is obtained with the scheme of laying expanded clay concrete blocks in the longitudinal direction. Here, the classical bandaging of spoon rows takes place with an offset of at least 0.4 from the block height (100 mm).
• In two rows (one block thick), dressing here is carried out by displacing the spoon rows relative to each other at least 100 mm both in the longitudinal direction of the wall and in the transverse direction. In this case, it is necessary to do a butt dressing every 2 rows - this is when the expanded clay blocks are located across the wall, for its entire thickness.

Pairing interior walls with external ones, it can be done by bandaging the masonry or by anchoring blocks, embedded or reinforcing elements with a step of 600 mm (the permissible minimum is two dressings per one floor height). All steel products used for dressing must be corrosion resistant (stainless steel or specially coated).

Reinforcement and lintels

In order to smooth out subsidence and shrinkage deformations of the masonry, as well as reduce the risk of cracking, a girdle reinforcement of every third row is arranged. For this, in the production of work on their own, steel rods of a periodic profile with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm are often used. For them, you need to arrange a strobe of such a depth (up to 25 mm) so that the rods are immersed there completely, without protruding anywhere. At the corners of the structure, the reinforcement should not be interrupted; it will be correct to bend it with a certain radius. Next, the mortar should be placed in the gutter, the rod should be “drowned” in it and covered with top.

Reinforcement is mandatory in the following support rows:

1. For door, window openings. In these places, you need to lay two rows of reinforcement 500 - 900 mm longer than the width of the opening on each side.

2. Under the floor. Here, around the perimeter of the walls, a girdling double-row reinforcement or frame reinforcement is arranged, laid in U-shaped blocks.

If the laying is carried out independently, without a preliminary design and calculations, then, succumbing to the desire to “work better and stronger”, you can make a belting reinforcement every 3 rows, this will increase the crack resistance of the structure as a whole.

Above window and door openings, lintels can be arranged as follows:

• With the use of U-shaped products. For this, a support formwork is being built, trays are laid on it with a bypass on the wall of at least 250 mm. A reinforcing cage is placed in them, and everything is poured with concrete, which is sealed with bayonet, then the surface must be leveled.
• Using ready-made. They are laid on a layer of mortar with a bypass of 100 mm for non-bearing structures and at least 250 mm for bearing structures.
• It is also possible to use rolled steel profiles (angles, square pipes) as a permanent support formwork. On top, you can simply put expanded clay blocks with the usual dressing.

The slab should be supported on a support row with encircling reinforcement, which will evenly redistribute the load along the entire perimeter. If a reinforced concrete slab or beams are used, it is recommended to anchor the floor to the walls with bent reinforcement bars (for example, Ø8 A240). One side of the bent rod is hooked to the ceiling mounting loop, and the other is laid along the expanded clay blocks. Also, the ends of the floor slabs in the outer walls should be additionally protected with a layer of insulation.

In cases where you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to specialists. The cost of masonry per cube in the regions of Russia varies from 900 to 1600 rubles, the highest prices are in Moscow. Also, the cost depends on the types of work included in the estimate, for example, loading is sometimes counted separately.

When constructing buildings and structures from expanded clay concrete blocks, it becomes necessary to saw them. Consider how to cut expanded clay concrete blocks, and determine the most optimal way.

Expanded clay concrete is a brittle material. Therefore, not all tools are suitable for cutting it. Chop it down an ordinary ax not always justified and safe. Better to use special tools.

Hand saw

Many builders, when deciding how to cut expanded clay concrete blocks, opt for a hand hacksaw. For cutting, use a tool with a thick metal blade and special tungsten soldering on the teeth. But for processing a large number of blocks, this method is not suitable, since it takes a long time to cut with a hand hacksaw and you need to apply maximum effort.

How to cut an expanded clay concrete block with less time and effort? Some builders recommend using reciprocating saws.

A reciprocating saw is a type of electric saw that cuts materials using the reciprocating motion of the blade. They are also called electric hacksaw, as they resemble a hand hacksaw.

To work with lightweight aggregate concrete blocks, a reciprocating saw blade, like a conventional hand saw, must be made of hard alloys and have soldered teeth. Recommended length 400 mm pitch 12.7 mm. These characteristics correspond to the saw blades from Bosch S 2041 HM. Builders recommend purchasing saber saws from this company for working with expanded clay concrete.

You can also purchase a power tool from Makita. A popular model for non-professional use is the Makita JR3070CT. The average cost of which is 16,000 rubles.

Saw "Alligator"

What are the professional workers sawing with? Builders use a special type of electric hacker - "Alligator". The electric hacksaw has two saw blades that reciprocate to mimic the movement of a crocodile's jaws.

The tool is very popular among builders due to its advantages:

• Provides a straight cut line
• No vibration during tool operation
• When the mechanism is jammed, there is no reactive recoil
• Saws blocks of any thickness
• It is convenient to work in hard-to-reach places.

Answering the question of how you can cut expanded clay concrete blocks, you can confidently answer that an electric hawk is a good option... But the Alligator saw also has some disadvantages:

• High price
• Cuts into the surface only from the edge
• Cutting accuracy is lower than, for example, a circular saw.

Choosing a model of an alligator saw, it is better to focus on tools from Bosch and Dewalt.

The popular Bosch GFZ 16-35 AC model is endowed with a number of advantages:

• Has an electronic stabilization system
• Rigid tire
• Start interlock
• Second handle (left-handed)
• The ergonomic design of the model ensures comfortable work and no fatigue
• Replacement of discs without auxiliary tools.

Also, builders often purchase the Dewalt DWE 397 model. This electric hanger has the following advantages:

• For the manufacture of the gearbox housing, a magnesium alloy is used, due to which heat is removed and vibration is damped
• Electronic system ensures optimum cutting speed
• Removing your fingers from the trigger stops the tool in a second.

Consider a comparative table of these models

Model	Power	Number of double strokes per minute	Blade travel	Saw bar length	The weight	Average cost
Bosch GFZ 16-35 AC	1.6 Kw	800-2500	50 mm	350 mm	5.2 kg	RUB 35,000
Dewalt DWE 397	1.35 kW	3300	38 mm	425 mm	4,3 kg	RUB 21,000

To save money, you can buy Russian or Chinese electric saws. But the cut quality will be much lower, and such tools will last less. .

Bulgarian

The grinder (angle grinder) is a type of circular saws. The working body of the tool is a disc with a radius of 230 mm. To work with the expanded clay concrete block, I use segmented diamond discs.

Do not use other types of discs, otherwise, when deformed, they will heat up and burst. Possibly causing injury.

This is the most suitable option, according to many builders, for cutting lightweight aggregate blocks. The tool provides high cutting accuracy.

But there are also disadvantages. The grinder is able to cut a hole limited by the radius of the disc. Therefore, the blocks are cut to the maximum possible depth and split.

Most often, the block is split in 2 ways:

1. An ax is lowered into the cut and hit with a hammer.
2. The block is raised and forcefully lowered by the cutting line onto a wooden beam.

When cutting expanded clay concrete blocks angle grinder from diamond disc a lot of fine dust is generated. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the respiratory system and eyes. It is recommended to take breaks during work so that the dust has time to settle a little.

Do not cut the expanded clay blocks with a chainsaw. The tool chain will not support the load. And dust will get into the gearbox, bearings and gears. Which will lead to their abrasion. For cutting, it is better to use a grinder with a disc diameter of 230 mm and a weight of up to 6-8 kg.

When choosing a grinder model, we look at the availability of parameters:

• Speed \u200b\u200bcontrol
• Smooth start
• Dust collection (casing included)
• Additional handle included (for more comfortable holding of the tool).

Among the popular models are grinders from Makita and Husqvarna.

You can purchase a cheaper model made in China. So, for example, the Total TG1242306 grinder is in demand. The model has a disc diameter of 230 mm, a power of 2.35 kW. The kit comes with a protective cover and an additional handle. The manufacturer provides a 24 month warranty for its product. But this model is less reliable.

Often consumers have a question whether it is possible not to saw, but to split the block? If the quality of the cut does not matter, but, it is necessary, only to divide the block into two parts, you can split it. To do this, you need a hammer and a blade of an old hacksaw for wood.

Often during the construction of buildings from expanded clay concrete, it becomes necessary to saw holes in blocks for dowels or anchor bolts.

Since expanded clay concrete is a brittle material, the drilling process must be carried out extremely carefully. For this, a carbide-tipped drill can be used. A hammer drill is also suitable. But they should work without chiseling. An impact drill can be used for through holes.

Answering the question of how lightweight aggregate blocks are sawn, it should be noted that there are 4 types of tools that are most often used for these purposes. Which have their own advantages and disadvantages. Choice the best option depends on the amount of work and the budget planned for construction. Right choice tool will ensure efficient material processing.