Wall insulation during the construction of a private house. Self-insulation of a house outside are some of the most effective ways. Insulating a house with thermal panels, or How to turn a hut into a palace

For owners of summer cottages and especially country houses with year-round living, maintaining a constant comfortable temperature in all rooms is always very important. No matter how effective various systems heating, the main factor is always the ability of house structures to retain heat inside the building. First of all, this applies to walls that have the largest surface area of \u200b\u200bthe house and, accordingly, give out the maximum heat losses of the building. The simplest and most effective method in execution is the insulation of the walls from the outside. What materials for insulating walls of a house are the most effective, as well as learn about the technology for performing such work, you can by studying this article.

Heat loss through the wall

The goal of any insulation is to minimize heat exchange with the environment.

Based on this, we can safely say that the external insulation of the walls of the house is a very important stage in construction work:

• Reduced heating costs in winter and air conditioning in summer.
• Comfort and coziness in the house not only at the peak of frost and heat, but also in the off-season with minimal use of household heating appliances.

Even quality construction houses from any building materials cannot completely solve the problem of saving heat inside them. There are always invisible gaps between rows of logs or wooden beam, heterogeneity and voids of brick or block masonry, lack of insulation, air cavities, expansion joints in panel and monolithic housing construction.

All the flaws of the walls can be clearly identified only with the use of thermal imaging technology. This service is provided by some specialized and construction organizations to assess heat loss during heating of buildings and to develop solutions for their elimination.

The traditional solution to eliminate heat loss is various methods of external insulation of the walls of a private house:

• Plaster using various fillers.
• Wall cladding with lumber.
• External single-row brick or stone masonry for wooden buildings with filling of the formed gap with heat-insulating materials.
• Cladding sheet materials () with the use of insulation.
• The use of modern curtain walls.

Sometimes the insulation of the walls of a private house with their own hands is also performed from the inside of the premises using sheet or roll heat-insulating materials, cladding, sheathing with gypsum fiber sheet,.

The materials and substances used to reduce heat loss are characterized by both their own low thermal conductivity and additional heat retention during their use due to the multilayer structure (hydro, sound and thermal insulation) of wall insulation. After all, such a structure contains air layers that do not conduct heat well.

Advantages of outdoor insulation

Structurally, there are three possibilities for insulating the external load-bearing walls of any building:

1. Placement of insulation elements inside the wall. Possibly under construction or reconstruction of a building. Most often, it requires design solutions to ensure the bearing capacity, structural and thermal calculations.
2. From inside the premises. This view insulation reduces the area and volume of the premises, and also creates certain difficulties in carrying out work in cramped conditions in a populated residential building.
3. Outside the wall... This method is usually not limited by space for work, delivery and storage. necessary materials, scaffolding device and use lifting mechanisms... Depending on the materials used for insulation and decoration, it is possible to perform work almost at any time of the year.

• Important! With external insulation of the walls of the house, moisture condensation due to the temperature difference outside and inside the building occurs not inside the room or wall structure, but outside. This not only solves the problem of fogging and the inevitable formation of fungus when the walls freeze, but also significantly slows down the process of wall destruction due to the cessation of the regular formation of moisture and ice crystals inside the structures. For reliable protection walls outside the house from the influence of external factors, it will not be superfluous to use a hinged ventilated facade.

In addition, by insulating the walls from the outside, along the way you will solve at least two more problems - improving sound insulation and appearance building, which is often equally important for the owner and family members. Thermal insulation perfectly absorbs background noise and harsh sounds, and many facing materials of different texture and color can protect walls from external influences and radically change the appearance of a house.

This method of insulation with optimal investment will help to significantly reduce heating costs, which is important taking into account heating costs with constantly growing prices for any energy sources: firewood, coal, gas and electricity.

You can qualitatively insulate the walls of the house using liquid polyurethane foam... To do this, using special equipment, through the external holes it is pumped into air gap between the wall of the house and inner lining premises.

Wall materials and methods of insulating them

For the construction of load-bearing walls of buildings, various materials and ready-made structures, as well different ways and masonry, assembly and fastening techniques, binders and fasteners. The physical properties of these substances and materials directly shape the dynamics of temperature changes inside the house under the influence of external and internal factors.

Brick and wood, foam and reinforced concrete, blocks of cement mix with a variety of fillers, prefabricated sandwich wall structures have different thermal conductivity, thermal inertia, density and strength. Factory building structures made of reinforced concrete have the worst thermal insulation properties, which is most often aggravated by shortcomings and violations technological process at all stages of the construction of buildings from it. This also applies to monolithic reinforced concrete buildings. All this is important for the right choice material and method of external wall insulation.

Materials used for construction and insulation of the walls of the house

Material name	Density	Thermal conductivity coefficient (W / m * K)
Concrete block	2100-2200	0,8-1,74
Brick (red)	1700-1900	0,55-0,96
Wood (pine, spruce)	450-550	0,10-0,18
Polystyrene concrete	900-1100	0,25-0,39
Minvata	50-100-200	0.045-0.055-0.06 (respectively)
Styrofoam	30	0,04
Expanded polystyrene	100-125-150	0.039-0.051-0.055 (respectively)
Polyurethane foam (PPU)	50	0,033

The main task of the external insulation of the house is to protect the building structures of the wall from contact with too hot or cold outside air and atmospheric precipitation. In practice, this range varies from traditional cladding with planed boards, clapboard to the installation of ventilated facade systems.

Facade of walls

Sheathing and cladding of external walls of buildings for wind protection and insulation using lumber, roofing material, technical cardboard, profiled metal sheet, different types siding with mats made of mineral wool or foam sheets - the most common method of external insulation.

No less common and also used today decorative plaster various mixtures with subsequent surface painting. The disadvantages of this type of insulation have always been the high labor intensity and fragility of work without constant supervision, current repair of the coating, which is quickly destroyed by temperature extremes and atmospheric precipitation. The effectiveness of insulation with this method also leaves much to be desired.

The lower the density of the heat-insulating material (the more closed air cells in it), the best properties for insulation it possesses.

The most popular and used types of wall insulation today are various mineral wool in rolls or ready-made mats. different sizes, expanded polystyrene sheets, more often called polystyrene foam, fiberglass materials.

Rarer are foil-clad polyethylene foam, wood fiberboard, various liquid polymer compositions foaming in the filled volume, heat-resistant organosilicon paints, cellulose insulation called ecowool, sprayed polyurethane foam.

Over the layers of insulation and waterproofing, wall cladding is performed with sheet and tile materials:

Professional sheet;
Siding;
Curtain facades.

Good to know! Profiled sheet and siding are the best selling and used facing materials. In addition to their excellent appearance, they qualitatively protect the insulation located between them and the building wall from all external influences.

Outside wall insulation technology

To insulate the surface of the walls of buildings outside, several methods and technological methods are used:

1. Fastening of heat-insulating materials to the facade using glue or mechanical fixation. This is followed by a reinforcing mesh, a layer of plaster and finishing paint. This method is called a wet façade.
2. Thermal insulation is attached to the wall in the same way as in the first method. Then a wall is erected with an air gap in one brick made of facing or ordinary brick, followed by painting.
3. Fastening alternately a waterproofing layer, insulation, wind protection. On the frame from the mounting metal profile or a wooden bar, decorative sheathing made of profiled sheet, siding, ceramic tiles is attached.

The choice of wall insulation method depends on many factors:

• Building type and height;
• Material and wall area;
• The degree of freezing and heat loss;
• The finance allocated for this work.

Do it yourself to insulate the walls of a summer cottage or country house within the power of the owner with family members and friends, but the performance of work on the insulation of a multi-storey building should be entrusted to a specialized construction organization.

The best option for performing work on external insulation:

It is better to carry out the whole range of works when there are design solutions, thermal and structural calculations, as well as specifications of building materials and fasteners. You can make them yourself or order documentation from specialists construction organizationengaged in insulation of buildings.

This approach will save you from a lot of problems: selection of a suitable certified material, its delivery, execution installation works, especially at height, which requires mandatory qualifications and permits for such work.

If the owner of a private house is confident in his strengths and building skills, then you can choose the most acceptable way from his point of view, buy materials available everywhere today and insulate the walls outside the house yourself. So you can not only save money, but also enjoy the result.

Surely the residents of apartment buildings are a little jealous of those who live outside the city in a private building. Own living space, garden, clean air - everyone's dream. Alas, not everything is so simple, because the harsh Russian winters force you to carefully insulate your home in order to prevent it from freezing. This presupposes an impressive investment and constant monitoring of the state of the thermal insulation material, from which residents of city houses are exempt.

Warming a house is preferable to using a dozen heating devices - you can save money and also make your home more comfortable. It is known that there are two ways to insulate a private building - outside and inside. Experienced experts recommend using both, but the primary thing is to take care of the outer insulation. About what material is best suited for certain houses - below.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The consumer is not in danger of a long search for good products - the market is saturated with goods from different manufacturers, so you can choose a decent insulation in any hardware store. However, before buying, it is necessary to analyze the material in question for its physical and chemical properties. These include:

• thermal conductivity coefficient (characterizes the ability of the insulation to conduct or hold air; the lower the indicator, the better - you do not have to use a thick layer of material);
• moisture absorption coefficient (indicates the ability of the material to absorb water as a percentage by weight; the higher the indicator, the less durable the insulation is);
• density (based on the value, you can determine how much the material will weigh the house);
• resistance to fire (there are 4 flammability classes; the first one (G1) is the most preferable, which stops burning without an open source of fire);
• environmental friendliness (not the most important indicator for consumers, and in vain - to preserve the health of family members, it is worth choosing only natural material from natural components that does not emit impurities into the atmosphere and does not contain synthetic elements);
• durability (the service life of the insulation set by the manufacturer);
• hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb vapor from the air);
• resistance to pests (insects, rodents, birds);
• noise insulation properties;
• ease of installation (the insulation should be fixed quickly, with a minimum set of tools; also, a minimum amount of additional work should be done with it, such as cutting into even pieces).

It is difficult to choose a material that has all the desirable qualities. For this reason, it is possible and necessary to carry out insulation outside and inside.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

The question of insulating a private house from the outside arises in two cases - at the design stage of a building or when buying a finished one, but at the same time does not have decent thermal insulation. The second situation is more common. What are the advantages of insulating a home from the outside? These include:

• reduction of wall deformability due to additional protection;
• the facade perceives sharp temperature fluctuations; as a result, the service life of the structure will be extended;
• freedom in choosing the design of the facade, even when the building is erected;
• the area of \u200b\u200bthe interior remains unchanged; this allows you to carry out any kind of finishing, and the living conditions remain the same.

Ways to insulate the house outside

The need and advantages of thermal insulation from the outside are obvious; now the consumer should get acquainted with the methods of insulation. There are three of them:

• "Well" arrangement of the material;
• "Wet" glued insulation;
• ventilated facade.

In the first case, the insulation is placed inside the walls (for example, between layers of bricks). It turns out that he is "locked" among two levels. The method is effective, but it is impossible to implement it for an already built house.

In the second case, a layer of insulation is fixed on the glue outside the walls, then additionally attached to the dowels. Several types of coatings are applied on top - reinforcing, intermediate, decorative (finishing). Good way, only requires the intervention of specialists; it is impossible to do wet wall insulation with your own hands without experience.

The ventilated facade resembles a "well" masonry, only the outer layer is facing material - plasterboard, tiles, siding, etc. Additionally, you will have to build a frame system for fixing the heat insulator sheets.

The last method is the most popular, widespread and profitable. It will be much cheaper than wet insulation; in addition, even a beginner can do the job with his own hands. Now the consumer is faced with the most difficult choice.

Existing materials can be divided into two large groups - organic (of natural origin) and inorganic (obtained using special materials and equipment).

Types and advantages of inorganic insulation

The first place on the list rightfully belongs to the most popular material - mineral wool. It is of three types - stone (basalt), glass and slag. Differing from each other only externally, varieties of mineral wool have the following qualities:

• low thermal conductivity coefficient (0.03 - 0.045);
• density variations (from 20 to 200 kg / m3);
• excellent noise insulation properties;
• vapor permeability (mineral wool can "breathe");
• fire resistance.

Not devoid of a number of disadvantages, including:

• attractiveness to rodents and insectoids;
• deterioration of thermal insulation characteristics by 50% when only 3-5% of the volume gets wet;
• never completely dries out.

In general, mineral wool is good, but it is highly undesirable to use it for cladding a house outside.

The second known outdoor insulation is foam. Its pluses:

• the heat conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool (0.03 - 0.037);
• costs less than other heaters;
• lightweight;
• density from 11 to 40 kg / m3.

• fragility;
• release of toxic substances during fire;
• does not "breathe", which forces residents to build additional supply and exhaust ventilation;
• when directly wet, it absorbs moisture and becomes unusable.

Extruded polystyrene foam is not inferior in thermal conductivity to mineral wool and foam. In addition, he:

• does not absorb moisture;
• convenient for installation, because it is produced in plates;
• stronger than polystyrene;
• almost does not allow air to pass through.

Disadvantages:

• flammable;
• emits harmful substances during combustion.

There is one more type of raw materials used for external thermal insulation of the walls of the house - "warm" plasters. They are a mixture of beads (formed by glass, cement and hydrophobic additives). "Breathe", isolate the room from moisture, do not burn, are not afraid sun raysare easy to repair. Not very common on the market, nevertheless, experienced consumers have already appreciated this insulation.

Varieties and benefits of organic materials

For those who want to feel the maximum closeness to nature, it is recommended to use raw materials from natural ingredients. These include:

• cork heaters - have a thermal insulation coefficient of 0.045 - 0.06; are crushed bark of a tree, pressed under the influence of hot steam and resin as a binding element; easy to cut, "breathe", do not form mold, non-toxic; today they are increasingly used to insulate walls from the outside);
• cellulose wool (ecowool) - thermal conductivity from 0.032 to 0.038; are crushed cellulose, treated with fire retardants to increase fire-fighting properties; properties resemble cork materials, but absorb liquid better; do not withstand heavy loads and are not suitable for wall cladding;
• hemp - supplied in slabs, rolls, mats based on hemp fibers; does not hold the load poorly, although it is quite dense (20-60 kg / m3);
• straw - old way thermal insulation of the walls of the house; breathable material treated with flame retardants to reduce flammability; practically not used today;
• seaweed - an exotic method of covering external walls; density up to 80 kg / m3, do not burn, do not rot, do not arouse interest in rodents, are resistant to mold and mildew. Better for light walls.

Preferred home insulation materials

Each material has pros and cons. Based on the above information, you can make a symbolic rating of the most quality materials for the walls of the house (the first is the most preferable, etc.). It is also worth considering the type of facade design.

For ventilated systems better fit cotton wool - mineral, cellulose. When laying wells, preference is given to material that does not allow moisture to pass through. This is extruded polystyrene foam. Plastering of walls goes well with insulation, whose density is more than 30 kg / m3. For example, with mineral wool, EPS, foam, any organic material.

For light walls wooden house breathable material is better - mineral wool, hemp, ecowool, cork insulation. The first is preferable, but costs a little more.

A country house should be high quality sheathed with reliable material. The consumer can choose any of those discussed earlier, guided by their wishes or financial capabilities. A competent approach to the purchase of insulation is the key to a long service life of a cozy home.

General Provisions.

The meaning of insulation is not only to increase the comfort in the house, but also to reduce heating costs. Therefore, it is worth choosing an economically viable method of keeping heat. Special interactive calculators make it possible to calculate the heat loss of a house before and after it is insulated.

When insulating, there are two important rules... Firstly, it is better to place the insulation outside the walls. With this scheme, the walls will accumulate heat in themselves and give it to the inside of the room when the heating is turned off. At the same time, the microclimate in the rooms will not fluctuate very sharply when the weather and heating and ventilation modes change. If the insulation is located from the inside, then the walls will freeze every winter, which will lead to a decrease in the service life of the entire building.

But this rule holds true for homes. permanent residenceand also to country housesregularly visited in winter. With rare arrivals, you will have to warm up the entire thickness of the walls of the house, which will increase heating costs.

Secondly, it is important to design the "cake" of the enclosing structures in such a way that moisture does not accumulate in it. Condensation leads to the appearance of mold, harmful to health, building structures begin to deteriorate, and the thermal properties of most heaters deteriorate in this case.

We start insulation from above

The attic floor is an outpost in the battle to keep your home warm and reduce heating costs. After all, it is known that warm air rises upward, and if the ceiling is cold, the cooling of the air will be intense. Signs of insufficient insulation of the ceiling may be thawed patches on the snow-covered roof, large icicles on the overhangs on the north side of the roof. The presence of condensation on the structures of the attic is already a clear distress signal.

How to insulate the floor by wooden beams? First you need to remove the old insulation and dry all the structures. You may need to clean them of mold and treat them with bio-protective compounds. Then you need to lay a vapor barrier film. Better to hem it below the beams, on the rough ceiling. But if this is not possible, then you can cover the ceiling with it from above. As a vapor barrier, you can use an ordinary thick plastic film, but it is better to buy a special one - it is not much more expensive, but it is stronger and more convenient to work with. The vapor barrier must be made airtight. Butyl rubber adhesive tape is used for gluing film canvases or, in extreme cases, you can get by with metallized adhesive tape, which is somewhat cheaper. The edges of adjacent foil canvases are glued to each other with an overlap, and the edges of the outer ones are glued to the walls.

Now you need to lay the insulation. Choice modern heaters very large, but you can also use traditional materials. For example, the cheapest option would be dry sawdust, covered with a layer of 25-30 cm. To protect against mold and mice, they are mixed with lime.

Of the insulation produced by the industry, the most inexpensive option - this is, perhaps, cellulose wool. It is made from waste paper with the addition of borax and boric acid... Thanks to these chemicals, cellulose becomes slightly combustible and resistant to decay. Usually this insulation, also known as "ecowool", is applied using blowing machines. In order not to call a team of specialists for this, some craftsmen adapt garden vacuum cleaners for applying ecowool.

But the overlap can also be insulated manually. To do this, it is enough to pour cotton wool out of the bag in small portions and fluff it up using a conventional electric drill with a mixer attachment. The main thing is to stock up on a respirator, because there will be a lot of dust. For the Moscow region, the thickness of the layer of cotton wool over the floors should be about 25 cm. Manufacturers of this material advise to increase the thickness of the layer along the perimeter of the attic in order to protect the upper part of the wall from freezing.

The advantage of backfill insulation is that they can be used on floors of any structure and with any distance between the beams. Insulation comparable in price to cellulose is glass wool. But it is produced in rolls or mats of a certain width and requires an appropriate distance between the beams. A more expensive analogue, basalt wool, also has such a disadvantage.

But on a flat concrete floor, you can use any of the named heaters. You just need to remember to put a vapor barrier under it.

Should you cover the insulation on top? This is usually unnecessary. In addition, open insulation dries better after being accidentally wet. However, if necessary, the insulation can be covered with a superdiffusion membrane, which will allow the cotton to dry, protect it from accidentally spilled water and from blowing out.

Floor insulation

The wooden floor is insulated in the same way as the attic - either with bulk or wadded insulation. Only the vapor barrier here needs to be laid on top, from the side of the room, under the floor. From below, from the underground side, the insulated floor should be hemmed with a superdiffusion membrane. For such a construction, it is very important that the underground is dry and well ventilated. If the airflows left in the basement are not enough for this, then you need to strengthen the ventilation, for example, remove the pipe from the underground behind the roof. As a last resort, you can try to output ventilation pipe from one of the vents and fix it on the wall at a height of two to three meters. A bell should be installed on top, which will direct the air flow away from the facade.

To reduce the likelihood of moisture in the underground, you need to cover the soil under the house with plastic wrap or roofing felt.

The concrete floor of the foundation can be insulated without dismantling the floors. It is enough to glue polystyrene from the bottom of the ceiling (usually these are expanded polystyrene plates) with a thickness of 10-20 cm. For such works there are cement-based adhesives (they are designed for the "wet facade" system, but are quite suitable here). Before starting work, you need to thoroughly clean and prime the concrete floor surface.

Instead of expanded polystyrene, you can use basalt wool with a density of 80 kg / m 3, and strengthen the glue fixing with disc dowels.

House wall insulation

Work on external wall insulation, willy-nilly, will be associated with the renovation of the facade. Insulation can be closed with a hinged facade ( vinyl siding or grooved board) or plastered (the so-called "wet facade"). There are a lot of subtleties in creating a "wet facade" that are difficult to take into account if you get down to business for the first time. So for independent work it is better to use curtain walls.

The most popular insulation under the hinged facade is basalt wool. It is ideal for insulating log houses, since it does not support combustion. High-quality basalt wool can get wet and dry several times without losing its properties. But still it is better to keep it dry - wet cotton wool conducts heat well and ceases to function as a heater.

Sometimes polystyrene foam plates are also attached under the hinged facade. But in this case, there is a risk that condensation will accumulate under them. It is better to use this insulation on walls made of sand-lime brick or concrete - materials with high thermal conductivity and low vapor permeability. The advantage of expanded polystyrene is that it is not afraid of getting wet, its fire-resistant types do not support combustion.

Ecowool is also used under hinged facades. In this case, it is applied with the help of blowing machines "wet-glue method" - before application, it is moistened and mixed with glue. This mass adheres to the wall and, after drying, forms a seamless "fur coat". This method is perhaps the most reliable for insulating a log house or uneven brick walls.

The use of all types of wadded insulation on the facade requires a ventilated gap. The cotton wool is covered with a superdiffusion membrane, and a gap of about 3 cm must be left between the membrane and the outer skin, which is set by the thickness of the battens.

Insulation of the house from the inside.

There are times when the choice of insulation and how to install it is limited. For example, if you need to insulate the walls in an apartment on the ninth floor. Insulation will be required here that do not allow water vapor to pass through and do not accumulate moisture. The choice is limited. These are blocks of foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam and expanded polyethylene.

Foam glass can be plastered to create a strong and warm wall. Ex-worked polystyrene foam (EPS) has a glossy surface and does not adhere well to the wall with cement glue. If the plaster on the wall is even, then it is better to use not cement glue, but glue-foam (similar in composition and packaging to ordinary polyurethane foam). It will provide a tighter fit of the insulation to the wall and a connection that is more resistant to deformation. All seams between the insulation plates must be sealed with polyurethane foam... There are also special adhesives for this material.

On top of the EPSS, you can plaster or cover with plasterboard sheathing.

The most affordable insulation for indoor use is polyethylene foam and its variety - foil-clad PPE. The latter is practically indispensable for insulating walls and ceilings of temporary and technical structures (building cabins, unheated attics, boiler rooms) heated by infrared heaters. The radiant heat is not absorbed by the walls, but returns back to the room. In addition, foil plays the role of a vapor barrier, which is especially important for wet rooms in frame and wooden buildings.

House warming - schematic drawings:

Pictures - numbering from left to right

Figure: 1. OPTION OF INSULATION OF ATTIC ROOF:

2 - bulk insulation (along the perimeter of the floor, the layer thickness is increased);

3 - additional insulation with expanded polystyrene in the Mauerlat zone;

4 - vapor barrier film from the side of the room;

5 - rough ceiling sheathing (OSB, plywood, etc.).

Figure: 2. OPTION OF INSULATION OF OVERLAPPING OF THE FOUNDATION:

1 - foundation; 2 - wall; 3 - concrete floor; 4 - blind area; 5 - insulation of the basement from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam (insulation can be plastered); 6 - it is recommended to cover the soil surface under the house with roofing material; 7 - mineral wool insulation is mounted to the ceiling using cement glue, the fastening is reinforced with disc dowels.

Figure: 3. OPTION OF WALL INSULATION WITH POLYSTYRENE FOAM UNDER A SUSPENDED FACADE:

1 - a wall made of material with low vapor permeability;

2 - the first layer of expanded polystyrene is attached to the wall using cement glue and disc dowels;

4 - the second layer of expanded polystyrene is inserted between the guides and fixed with polyurethane foam;

5 - vinyl siding cladding.

Figure: 4. VERSION OF WALL INSULATION WITH MINERAL WOOL UNDER A SINGLE FACADE:

1 - wall made of material with high vapor permeability (wooden beam);

2 - horizontal lathing;

3 - the first layer of basalt wool 50 mm thick (a spar is inserted between the lathing bars);

4 - vertical crate;

5 - the second layer of basalt wool 50 mm thick;

6 - superdiffusion membrane;

7 - battens for lathing; 8-wooden facade cladding.

5 pieces. MC-38 wired door, window sensor magnetic switch for ...

Currently, when constructing new buildings, developers are paying special attention to the thermal protection of the outer walls. This is required not only by building codes, but also by the desire to increase their competitiveness. However, the situation with walls in older houses is somewhat different. Owners of private houses have to carry out insulation of the premises with their own hands in order to keep the heat inside, and leave the cold outside.

There can be several reasons for the decrease in the temperature inside the house: a poor heating system, the presence of cracks, and drafts. However, the most common cause is poor wall insulation. Walls occupy the largest area in a room and are the main source of heat loss. There are several ways to insulate walls in a private house from the outside.

Why insulation should be done outside

1. When insulating a house from the outside, the material protects the walls not only from heat loss, but also from the negative effects of moisture. Household heat warms up the wall and, in the event of moisture ingress and condensation, promotes its rapid drying.
2. moves closer to the outer edge of the wall. This prevents condensation from forming.
3. Do-it-yourself insulation of the house from the outside not only protects the room from the cold, but also preserves the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms.

Wall insulation options outside

There are several options for how best to insulate private house outside:

• Installation of heat-insulating material on the wall using an adhesive solution and further plastering.
• Formation of a three-layer non-ventilated wall. The insulation is fixed with a solution. Next, the outer wall is laid in one layer of brick, taking into account the air space.
• Installation of a ventilated facade. A heater is attached on top of the waterproofing, on which a windscreen is installed. The finishing stage is decorative clapboard or other siding.

Each method has its own nuances in performance. There are combined materials, as well as modern modified ones, when installing which you should adhere to a special technology. can be carried out even in the cold season, since its technology does not provide for the use of an adhesive composition.

The better to insulate the house outside

There are several types of insulation material. Each of them has its own characteristics and price range. The following heaters are considered the most popular:

• styrofoam (expanded polystyrene, extruded expanded polystyrene);
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam;
• basalt slabs;
• cellulose-based insulation.

The correct insulation of the walls of the house outside with your own hands depends on the choice the best option wall insulation. The main differences between the above materials are vapor permeability, moisture resistance and thermal conductivity. The first two parameters are selected based on the features climatic conditions, as well as the method of fastening to ensure maximum protection of the room from dampness. Thermal conductivity is taken into account when calculating the required thickness to achieve the optimal effect.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

Insulation work should be started by calculating the thickness of the heat insulator. Calculations are carried out on the basis of SNiP, GOST and SP data. If you can't do the calculations yourself, it's better to use the services of private design organizations. The thickness of the insulation depends on the indicators of the heat loss of the house through the outer walls, window frames, foundation, ceiling slabs and the roof. Taking into account the obtained data, as well as taking into account the power of the heating system, calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

Next, they are determined with the choice of material and carry out the insulation of the house outside with their own hands. It is important to take into account not only the type and size of the heat insulator, but also the number of layers required. For example, it is better to refuse from expanded polystyrene if laying in several layers is required. For this, mineral wool or polyurethane foam, the thickness of which is much smaller, is suitable.

Preparing walls for insulation

After choosing the best way to insulate the house from the outside, they begin the main work. The main goal is to prepare the walls for further installation of the material. To achieve a perfectly flat brick, wood or concrete surface, the old layer of plaster or other insulator is completely removed.

Particular attention should be paid to priming the walls. If there are differences in levels on the wall (protrusions and depressions over 2 cm), it is better to seal them with a special solution or comb them to the desired level. Use a deep penetrating primer. Before applying the primer, the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt.

In order for the insulation for the walls outside to lay down in an even layer and not interfere with the construction of an external wall from decorative bricks or plastering, you should think over a system of plumb lines and lighthouses in advance. They are used to determine the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, which facilitates its installation.

Anchors or screws are installed to the upper edge of the wall. A strong thread is tied to them and lowered with plumb lines to the very bottom. Horizontal threads are attached between them, which form a control grid. It serves as a guide when installing the frame or installing insulation.

Installation of polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)

Styrofoam is attached to the wall with special glue for expanded polystyrene plates... Sometimes construction "fungi" are used for these purposes.

When insulating walls with EPPS, the surface on which the adhesive solution will be applied is made rough. This contributes to a more reliable adhesion. There are no such problems with foam, since the glue fixes it without additional processing.

Often, both glue and "fungi" are used to strengthen the fastening. This is a more correct solution that extends the life of the insulation.

The final stage of wall insulation from the outside is the application of plaster or cladding with decorative materials.

How to insulate walls in a private house from the outside with foam using wooden battens

In practice, another method of attaching foam sheets is used - by forming a frame from wooden slats.

For the construction of the frame, slats are used, the thickness of which is not less than the thickness of the insulation. If the thickness is slightly greater, this will create a ventilated space between the insulation and the cladding material. The distance between the slats is calculated in such a way that the plates are tightly inserted into the niches and do not fall out.

This type of installation is acceptable if siding or lining will be used for finishing the walls. The slats will serve as the basis for attaching the cladding material.

fastening features

Mineral wool can also be used to insulate a private house from the outside. Materials and tips for performing work are similar to the mounting instructions basalt slabs and cellulose-based insulation.

For a more reliable installation of mineral wool sheets, a frame system is formed from wooden slats. The width of the lathing should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the heat-insulating material.This ensures tight entry of the mineral wool between the beams and the absence of gaps. Additionally, anchors are installed on which insulation sheets are subsequently put on. If the surface of the wall is uneven, two-layer mineral wool is used, the layers of which have different densities. The soft layer provides a secure grip on the wall.

In terms of external finishing, mineral wool is more versatile, unlike other types of heat insulators. On top of the insulation, an external horizontal cladding can be installed, under which a windproof layer in the form of a dense polyethylene film is attached. Used for wall cladding decorative brick, lining or other siding. This technology allows you to create a three-layer ventilated insulation that is suitable for most climatic zones.

How to insulate walls in a private house outside with polyurethane foam

The installation principle of polyurethane foam is similar to the technology of fixing mineral wool. However, it is almost impossible to independently insulate the walls with this material. The method involves the use of special expensive equipment that distributes the liquid mixture over the surface to be treated. In addition, without professional skills, working with the installation causes many difficulties.

The main feature of this method of warming is the very fast execution of work. With the above installation, polyurethane foam is sprayed over the surface. As a result of a chemical reaction, a liquid substance is transformed into a solid state and foamed. The insulation does not form an air space between the wall and the heat insulator, which provides a stronger and more durable coating.

Features of polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam has many benefits, including:

• after hardening, it fills all cracks and depressions;
• steam permeability is significantly lower than that of other materials;
• quickly and reliably fixed to the wall;
• excellent mechanical strength;
• good heat and sound insulation.

However, the cost of the material and its installation are quite expensive. Its durability and high quality indicators justify the high installation costs.

If sooner or later the question arises of how to insulate a house outside with your own hands, the instructions for using polyurethane foam will help solve the problem of heat loss and maintain a comfortable temperature in the room.

Regardless of what material is used as a heat insulator, any of the above options copes with its main task - the insulation of the room. Besides, outer insulation allows you to keep warm and protect the surface from dampness. He will tell you how to insulate the walls in a private house outside step-by-step instruction and practical advice specialists.

Building walls and a roof is only half the battle. It is necessary to make the built space comfortable for life. To do this, most often, the house is insulated from the outside or from the inside, and sometimes both options are used simultaneously.

Do you want to insulate your home, but do not know what technologies exist and where to start? We will help you deal with this task - the article discusses the main options used for external thermal insulation. The order of work is also considered, themed photos and useful video recommendations on the nuances of insulation were selected.

The materials from which the walls of capital structures are erected can be different: brick, concrete, slag - or aerated concrete blocks, wood, sandwich panels - these are just their main types.

For some of them, insulation is not required at all: for example, for sandwich panels. But other options need it to one degree or another.

Why do you need to insulate outside? Many people associate this with the fact that in the case of a thermal insulation layer inside a building, a useful spatial volume is stolen from the interior.

This is partly true, but this is not the main reason. The critical parameter is.

The dew point forms on the surface where there is a temperature difference with a change in pressure.

And if you arrange thermal insulation inside the room, it means that the walls of the building themselves will be cold, since the insulation will save heat inside the space, and prevent it from getting on the enclosing structures.

Insulation from the inside is fraught with the fact that the dew point will form exactly inside the building, most likely on the inner surface of the main wall, which is insulated with insulation

Methods and procedure for wall insulation

It turns out that a change in the weather outside will provoke a change in humidity inside. Moreover, the changes will be significant - condensation will form on the walls, which will not be able to dry. Hence, a number of negative aspects, including development.

That is why it is so important to insulate the walls from the outside. In total, there are 3 technologies that are used to insulate capital structures. It seems reasonable to dwell on each of them in more detail.

Method number 1 - well

This is one of the most ancient ways to insulate the walls of your home from the outside. Indeed, everything is logical: the capital bearing walls are built, and after that, stepping back a little, they are lined with another row of bricks, for example, half a brick thick.

Between the capital and the external, let's call it a decorative wall, a void is formed - a "well", which creates the effect of a thermos.

Distance from decorative wall to the main one, it is adjusted using special connecting steel anchors or a reinforcing mesh is laid. It covers the section of the well and serves at the same time as reinforcement for strengthening the outer wall.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Analysis of the most common mistakes in external insulation of facades of private houses:

Thermal insulation of capital buildings ceases to be a separate issue that is resolved after the house is built. Now it is decisive in the choice of the construction technology itself.

Over time, with the rise in the price of electricity and energy carriers, for example, gas, it is the questions that will come to the fore during the construction of a building heat saving.

Tell us what method of insulation you used to insulate your own home and which ones you used for this. Are you satisfied with the result? Please leave your comments in the communication block located under the article.