Do-it-yourself antique door. Antique wooden door decoration Antique wooden doors by hand

03.09.2016 71960

Sometimes emphasizing old age - original solution unsightly sash problems. So, beautiful without additional expenses. Of course, the effect should be deliberate - sloppiness is inappropriate in any interior. do-it-yourself wood aging - methods, tools and materials are described below.

Types of artificial aging of wood

The vintage door look can be obtained in several ways. Below, they are listed in order of increasing cost of effort and money. The algorithm of operation is also described. So:

Thermal method or firing. The process will require a blowtorch and a coarse wood aging brush. The intensity of the impact is determined by the master himself - as a result, you can get pronounced natural patterns of wood or barely visible. After firing, the surface of the canvas is sanded with coarse emery cloth in different places to create the appearance of heterogeneity. The door for this aging method must be massive, plank. The fittings are appropriate - massive steel handles and.

How to do it right:

Cleanse from. Use a hairdryer or solvent. The canvas is carefully sanded, the boards are knocked down so that there are no gaps. Thumbs up before aging with all kinds of protections - fire retardant, moisture-retaining composition. The existing cracks are left - they will add even more flavor. The hinges and handles are removed. The method takes a little time, is safe with the skills of working with the tool.

Blackening. The effect is achieved by rubbing shoe polish, stain or strong manganese solution into the cleaned canvas. Pigmentation is delayed on annual rings, cuts, knots, and thus, the effect of a darkened opening is achieved. In addition, the latter composition helps to disinfect the canvas if traces of mold or mildew are detected during cleaning.

How to do it right:

All ingenious is simple! To obtain antique doors, a previously cleaned surface with a solvent and a spatula is covered with black ink, and then the shoe polish, melted to a liquid state, is rubbed with a brush. You need to rub hard. The method has a disadvantage - removed door leaf it is important to ventilate during the week - the smell is unpleasant.

Bark beetle tracks. They represent the tracks from the movement of the larva. You can create them on semi-antique doors with your own hands using bent nails. Having spread them out on the surface, they are driven in with a hammer, leaving dents throughout the area. It is important to free the rods from the caps to create a complete imitation. After work, the canvas is sanded with fine sandpaper, making sure that the chip dust gets a little into the grooves. Next, they are varnished.

These antiquity effects are very simple and quick to obtain. The style of an apartment or house must be consistent, otherwise the effect is inappropriate.

Working with paint and varnish

You can get aged doors in other ways. They will take more time and labor. In addition, the costs will increase due to the purchase of several shades of paint. So:

A popular dry brush method. The canvas is cleaned and coated with a base primer. Until the layer is completely dry, with the end of a dry brush, strokes of a different shade are applied. The combination of colors can be different - contrasting or moving from one shade to another. The layers are now given time to dry. The finished surface is cleaned with emery cloths to further highlight the scuffs. Reapply a layer of a different colored helmet. The final color is pale yellow or white, which is applied to the door with strokes. Allow to dry again and then grind. The finishing layer is varnish.
Craquelure. This is done artificial aging tree in several ways:

- varnish and silver. A layer of varnish is applied to the prepared surface. After 30 minutes, it is dried with a hairdryer, resulting in cracks. They are rubbed with silver paint, allowed to dry completely and the resulting effect is varnished.
- PVA glue. With its help, they create an antique design. A thick layer of glue on a previously cleaned canvas is not allowed to dry completely. A layer of acrylic paint is applied on top of it and then dried with a construction hairdryer.
- Gelatin or egg white is another way to age paint on wood. The prepared composition is applied to the painted surface with a wide brush - pre-soaked gelatin or protein. Allow to dry naturally and cover with varnish.
- vinegar 9%. They moisten a fresh painted surface in a horizontal position. Cracks appear immediately.

It is important not to overdo it - the doors should be aged, and not rendered unusable.

Mechanical structuring or brushing. The bottom line is to remove the soft grain of the wood and expose the wood structure. For work, a special milling cutter with several attachments is used - a wire brush for structure, a soft one for cleaning and emery cloths for polishing.

The door laid on a horizontal surface is cleaned chemically or hot, then they operate with a machine. It is possible to achieve the effect with manual efforts, but it will take more time. First, they act with a coarse nozzle, then they are cleaned of chips and, finally, they are polished. During each stage, various compositions are applied to the canvas - stain, ink, shoe polish, so that the further transformation of the old wood goes on continuously. The final step will be varnishing.

Chemical brushing. Suitable as the effect of aging wood, which does not require the purchase of a special machine. For work, caustic alkalis, acids, ammonia... The process takes place far from living quarters in well-ventilated places and with the use of personal protective equipment - gloves, glasses, and a respirator. Is as follows:

- the web is cleaned and sanded.
- wetted with a large amount of caustic components.
- after softening the soft layers, it is processed with hard wire brushes and polishes.

With the above methods, it is not difficult to artificially age a tree. In addition to the interior, wooden pieces of furniture - legs, armrests - are decorated in the same way.

Features of the tree aging process

Various methods of aging the surface of doors at home require adherence to stages and nuances. For example:

Cleaning of canvases. It occurs with the use of a building hair dryer or solvents. It is convenient to clean off peeling paint with a spatula. It is important to remove all visible areas, otherwise they will not get the desired effect. In addition, chemical solutions must be suitable for the composition of the future coloring or varnishing - incompatibility will lead to the formation of bubbles and "husks".
The chemical method of wood aging - brushing with caustic solutions, staining, occurs only with soft wood species. Pine, spruce, suitable - oak and larch are subject only to mechanical processing.
The mechanical method is associated with the formation of shavings and fine wood dust, so the canvas is periodically moistened with water and the debris is swept away from the surface with a soft brush. Not with your hands - to avoid splinters.
Painting - craquelure, wood aging with your own hands using varnish, dry brush method - should be done with thorough mixing of the compositions so that air bubbles do not form on the surface. They, bursting, form ugly pits, and the artificial origin of the canvas becomes clear.

By itself, natural wood beautiful and new canvases are unlikely to need to be decorated using the methods described. Work should only be carried out with used interior doors, in order to give them a second life and save on buying a new kit.

The classic interior becomes so thanks to the details, of which the door is a rather important one. You can buy old furniture ready-made in the salon, restore the old one or age the existing one. Truly old things are worth a fortune, but old ones can lose their functionality. There remains the option of artificial aging.

Features:

A door that looks antique can be made by yourself or you can purchase an antique stylized product.

Features of such products:

This stylistic solution has no analogues, while modern styles are more typical.
They create a special atmosphere. Antiques are associated with respectability. That is why pseudo-antique things are so popular.
The individuality of the material. If natural wood is used, the uniqueness of its texture is emphasized.
Illusory - create an effect that actually does not exist.
Symmetry and proportionality are the main features of the classics.
The high cost does not become an obstacle for connoisseurs of taste. In addition, any model can be made cheaper by choosing a different material or abandoning decorative inserts, columns, pilasters.
Fittings should not only fulfill their function, but also be an element of decor.

Kinds

All semi-antique doors can be conditionally divided into:

Input (they perform the function of protection against thieves and external influences; they have increased requirements for heat and sound insulation, strength).
Interroom(the main function is to create privacy and separate zones that are different in their purpose). They must be aesthetic and fit into the overall design of an apartment or a separate room.

By the type of opening and closing the doors can be:

sliding;
folding;
swinging.

Slidingsystems are less appropriate in classic interior... But if there is a need to install them (there is furniture next to the opening or the entrance to another room is blocked), you should choose metal profiles in the color of bronze, brass, silver or gold.

Foldingare also practical in terms of space saving. The narrow canvases that make up such a door can be a great addition to the classic style.

The most acceptable in the classics will look swingdoors. They can be left, right or pendulum. If the room is large and the doorways are wide, you can install double door... Since symmetry is important in a classic interior, the sashes should be the same width.

Remember the details - in this case, the hinges may not be hidden, but overhead. As an independent element of decor, they can also be of a certain shade, with scuffs and even imitation of rust.

By type of construction there can be models:

frame;
with inserts (panels);
deaf;
glazed;
arched.

As inserts can be: glass, mirrors, stained glass, specially treated wood with metal, plastic and leather overlays. Glass can be: standard, matte, tinted, with drawings. Patterns or picturesque images are used as a drawing.

Depending on how the door surface is finished, there are:

canvases covered with plastic, film, enamel or paint;
with a transparent coating (varnishes);
finished with laminate, natural or artificial veneer;
covered with textiles, leather and leatherette.

Materials

The main ways of door processing for aging are:

chemical (using alkaline compounds that affect the soft tissues of the tree);
mechanical(consists in the formation of chips, cracks using special tools);
thermal (by means of a torch or blowtorch).

Usually, aged doors are combined - when the frame is made of one material, and the insert is from another.

The insert (panel) can be:

flat - that is, smooth, without protrusions;
volumetric - with milling around the perimeter;
typesetting - from several docked lamellas.

It is more practical to use MDF as a panel, as a panel made of wood can dry out and damage the frame.

The aging effect on plastic is unattractive, since the material can warp and change color. Metal and MDF have a homogeneous structure. You cannot apply to them mechanical methods material processing. But you can use a finish made of film, plastic or veneer.

Wood is the most suitable material for all of the above processing methods. It is a material with a pronounced structure. Moreover, the structure is emphasized not only by convexity, but also by color (annual rings look especially bright against a light background).

Hardwoods - oak, beech, walnut - are durable, but expensive. Soft breeds - birch, pine - less dense, but more affordable in price.

Historically, at first, craftsmen were involved in production. Subsequently, handicraft production was supplanted by mass machine production. Doors from massive and monolithic turned into light and multi-piece.

Today, for pseudo-antique doors, the most practical material is MDF, covered with veneer or foil. Used veneer of dark and light oak, mahogany, walnut, wenge, maple, rosewood. The film imitates the texture and pattern of wood, and it can also be colored.

Retro fashion

Aged doors are classic and, judging by the trends, will always be in demand.

There are several reasons why this happens:

Classic doors are synonymous with wealth. Wealthy people will always strive to emphasize their status. And people who do not have the opportunity to purchase such expensive things and who are the majority will use stylized doors. In addition, there are a lot of such options on the market, different in colors, shape, decor and material. Moreover, the door is a visiting card of an apartment or room, by which one can judge its owner.
Antique doors create a special mood. Office premises, shopping centers, and almost all the premises in which a person spends most of his time, are decorated in the style of modern, high-tech and the like. Therefore, having crossed the threshold of his home, a person wants to relax and feel comfortable.

There are directions that use light pastel shades, and they have a calming effect on the psyche and nervous system person.
Despite their intricate appearance, they are very practical. Hardwood doors are durable, and treated with special impregnations, they can be used in bathrooms and rooms with temperature extremes. A large selection of materials will ensure your enjoyment for years to come.
Special processing techniques are available to people without special skills. This is a great opportunity for creativity, manifestation of your individuality. And a hand-made thing is especially expensive.

Manufacturers overview

The most popular (according to reviews and searches on the Internet) door manufacturers in classic style from array and MDF are:

Sofia;
Volkhovets;
"Alexandria Doors";
"Ocean";
Europan;

Dariano;
Matadoor;
Alvero;
RuLes;
"Dera".

Manufacturers who are confident in the quality of their products have long warranty periods. Additionally, they provide delivery and assembly services.

How to age with your own hands

There are several ways to make a new or used door look aged:

Brushing- Removal of soft tissue from wood. To do this, use a special iron brush evenly along the fibers. Then the surface is sanded and varnished. This is the most plausible method.
Patination.First, a dark layer of paint is applied, it should be even. Then light paint is applied and, having dried a little, certain areas are wiped with a rag. Grind with sandpaper and varnish.
Craquelure. The purpose of this method is to create cracks. First on wooden surface craquelure varnish is applied, then a bitumen-based composition, and then a contrasting acrylic paint. Cracks can also be highlighted with paint, only this must be done very carefully.
With the help of stain. It is applied with a brush or sponge, lifts the fibers and makes them more prominent. It is applied in several layers, after drying it is rubbed with wax.
With paraffin wax - initially, dark paint is applied, then the necessary areas are rubbed with paraffin and the entire surface is painted with light paint. The paraffin is peeled off, the resulting drawing must be sanded and covered with a stain.

The door leaf must be prepared in advance. To do this, you need to remove the hinges and handles, remove the glass. Remove the paint and sand the surface with a hot air gun. Chips are rubbed with putty. The surface is degreased.

Such work does not require special skills. All it takes is the desire to create a unique door.

Beautiful examples in the interior

In their narrow sense, semi-antique doors can denote doors made in one of the directions of the classical style:

Gothick style.A door in this style should only be in natural shades, with a large number of glass inserts or iron plates, with forging. This is where the original pointed top comes in. The product should give the impression of being robust and solid. Due to their massiveness, such models are more suitable for external doors.
Baroque- characterized by an abundance of silver, copper, bronze and, of course, gilding. Decorated with ornate volumetric carving imitating molding. Slopes can be columns or additional side panels... Cornices and porticos are installed above the door. The main feature of this style is the creation of the illusion of wealth and luxury. It is oriented towards large "palace" dimensions, therefore, doors are installed in a large size.

Many people know how to restore old time-worn doors. But sometimes the style of the interior requires that it be decorated and complemented by antique doors. But where to get them? And how much can they cost?

You should not even try to answer these questions, it is better to read how you can artificially age existing or just purchased canvases. Of course, we are talking mainly about wooden products. Although some methods of this finish are also suitable for other materials.

To make the work go faster and more fun, and the quality does not suffer, before starting work, the doors must be removed from the hinges, dismantled from them all the fittings and laid horizontally on a flat solid base.

Then they clean off the old coating. To do this, you can use a building hair dryer and a spatula. The paint softens under the influence of hot air, begins to bubble and itself lag behind the base. It is easy to scrape off with a spatula (see).

Then we proceed depending on the final appearance of the product. You can seal all existing defects with a putty to match the wood: chips, dents, cracks. Or you can do the opposite and with your own hands create the very defects that supposedly appeared over the years.

How to do it:

Chips are made with an ax or a heavy knife, after which their edges are sanded with sandpaper;
With the help of a thin drill or awl, the erratic moves left in the wood by bark beetles are imitated;
A similar effect can be achieved by scattering old bent nails without heads and pieces of wire across the door leaf and hammering them into the wood with a hammer, and then removing;
With a thick drill, you can drill through holes and fill them with dark putty, depicting knots that have darkened from time to time;
To get dents, it is enough to put heavy pieces of iron - bolts or nuts - in a dense linen bag and beat them with effort on the surface.

In short, to break is not to build. Surely you have other ideas for how to disfigure the surface.

Grinding

It is important! If you skip this step, the paints and varnishes will lie down and be absorbed into the wood unevenly, and the surface will turn out to be rough and rough. To achieve perfect smoothness, after the first sanding, the door should be slightly moistened to raise the lint, and then removed with a fine sandpaper.

Now you can move on to the main stage of aging. Take your pick.

Staining

Let's start with the easiest way. This is an antique door finish using a special staining technique. It should be of two types: water-based and solvent-based.

The work consists of the following stages:

First staining... It uses a water-based stain.

Wash off... Immediately after staining, without waiting for the layer to dry, take a wet rag or sponge and wash off the stain. But not entirely. Usually, corners, panels, depressions and cracks, as well as the edges of the boards, if the door is plank, are left intact. But from their middle, the tint is washed off.

Processing of individual areas... To give the garment bump and expressiveness, you can shade chips, grooves and edges with a darker color using a thin brush.

Council. If for the sake of a small amount of work you don't want to buy a product desired color, it can be replaced with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, coffee, tea leaves.

Second staining. Apply the second continuous layer of stain based on white spirit or other solvent after the door is completely dry.

Fixing the result... To preserve the effect obtained, the product must be coated with colorless varnish or antique wax.

In this way, you can finish both old-style wooden ones, and furniture facades... It is also suitable for products covered with veneer. They will look like faded, but retain the old coating in the recesses and in some places.

Drawing "traces of time"

What happens if a wooden door is used for a long time, but the coating is not renewed? That's right - the paint on the protruding parts will rub off. And if not used, a kind of plaque, patina may form on the surface. These changes can be imitated.

Scuffs

It would seem, what is easier: to paint the canvas and even peel off the paint in places with sandpaper? You can do this, but you will not achieve the desired effect.

Better to do otherwise:

Prepare the door as described above and prime;
After the primer has dried, paint the canvas. It is possible not entirely, but only those areas where scuffs are expected;
When the paint dries, rub some areas with paraffin, then cover the entire canvas with paint of the main color - darker or lighter than the previous one;

Wait for the paint to dry again and remove it with a spatula from the places that were smeared with paraffin.

This method is often used to decorate furniture in the Provence style, which is characterized by light natural shades, so the paint is chosen in pastel colors.

But there can be no strict rules, so you are free to use any colors and in any sequence.

Patination

The creation of a "touch of antiquity" is carried out by different technological methods. If everything is done correctly, then you need to use a special composition - patina. But she's dear. At home, you can use the most in a simple way, short instruction which is given in the table.

For example, taken door trim... By the way, when aging, you should not forget about him, and about extras and so on. door frame, otherwise the canvas in it will look ridiculous.

We paint the part in the main color with any chosen composition. It can be paint on any base or stain. The main thing is to apply it evenly, without streaks, streaks and stripes. Let the coating dry well.
Apply patina or liquid paint of a different shade with a thin layer of patina on the dried surface with a brush. It is necessary for it to penetrate into all structural and decorative cavities of the product.
As soon as the paint starts to dry, we wipe it off the surface. It will be partially removed only from smooth convex parts, but will remain in the recesses.

Council. It is very convenient to remove the top layer with a special metallized sponge - scotch-bright. It is quite possible to replace it with the back of the hard side of a regular dish sponge.

Cracking

When doors are old, repeatedly painted, the coating on them often cracks, creating an artistic cobweb. But it is not at all necessary to wait for the appearance of such cracks, they can be made by ourselves in literally a couple of hours.

The technology for creating cracks is called crackle, and the compositions that contribute to their appearance are craquelures. As a rule, these are varnishes with special properties... The ingredients that make up them tear apart the paint applied over it or the bottom layer.

Different varnishes act in different ways, there are one- or two-step, so before using you need to study the instructions:

The easiest way using a one-component composition consists in the fact that the craquelure is applied to the dried paint coating with a thin layer, and it cracks under the action of active components.
Another method involves applying craquelure between two layers of paints of different colors.... In this case, the upper layer is disturbed, and the lower one is visible in the cracks.

The crackle method can be used to decorate not only wooden, but also semi-antique iron doors. And also combine it with other aging methods. See examples:

If you wish, you can do without special formulations, and get a similar result using other means, most of which can be found in any home:

PVA glue... The glue is applied to the canvas with a thick layer and, without allowing it to dry, paint it with acrylic paint. Then the painted product is dried with a construction hairdryer. Hot air will crack the paint on the glue.

Vinegar... Plain 9% table vinegar, if poured over a freshly painted coating, will also crack.

Gelatin, egg white... When coating a door leaf with raw protein or brewed gelatin, it is not the paint that will crack, but the coating itself. Therefore, the effect will be, but not as pronounced.

Aluminum powder. It is also called silver. The door is varnished and after 20-30 minutes they begin to dry with a hairdryer. Drying too quickly will lead to the composition losing its integrity, the varnish will be covered with cracks. You need to gently rub the powder into them, and sweep away the excess.

Whichever method you use, the result needs to be consolidated. Therefore, after final drying, the canvas is opened with a colorless varnish.

Brushing

Brushing is the structuring of wood, removal of softer fibers from its upper layer, as a result of which the surface becomes embossed. Doors and other products decorated in this way look amazing and look almost indistinguishable from really old ones.

But it is not suitable for all types of wood. Oak, pine, larch, spruce, walnut, ash are considered suitable. But maple, beech, alder, juniper, pear or cherry are not brushed.

There are three brushing methods: mechanical, chemical and thermal.

Mechanical brushing

For it, you will need a stiff metal brush or drill with the same attachment, a stiff brush, a chisel, and a pelt.

The wooden part is laid on a flat, stable surface and fixed. Then, with effort, it is brushed with a metal brush until the depth of the relief seems sufficient to you. Processing is carried out strictly along the fibers, otherwise transverse scratches will ruin all the beauty.

Using a chisel, you can select deeper grooves in places, make chips around the edges, but this is not necessary.

After finishing brushing, the wood dust is thoroughly swept out with a regular hard brush. And then the product is covered with a dark stain.

Grind the dried surface using sandpaper No. 60 (for pine) or No. 80 (for oak). The purpose of this treatment is to partially discolor the base, leaving all grooves and indentations darkened.

Remove dust and slightly moisten the surface so that the remaining fine villi rise. And again we grind, but already with zero to give smoothness.

We apply a finishing decorative coating - oil, varnish or wax to consolidate the result and increase the practicality of the door.

In general, after machining, any of the above methods can be used. Patination and staining will look especially impressive.

Chemical brushing

For mechanical brushing, you need to be a physically strong and resilient person, as this is a very time-consuming operation. But the work can be made easier if the wood is treated with chemicals that soften soft fibers before brushing.

These are special preparations based on caustic alkali or acid, but some household products have a similar effect. For example, plumbing cleaning liquids and gels. They are applied to the surface, sparingly, and left until the wood changes color.

Council. Chemical brushing should be done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, using personal skin and respiratory protection equipment. The price of the issue is your health.

Then the chemistry is washed off with water, and the tree is treated with vinegar solution to neutralize the remaining alkali. Then everything is as described above: cleaning with a stiff brush and decorative finishing... But it will be much easier to work.

The only drawback of this method is the grayed out wood. Therefore, it is used only in cases where the door is supposed to be painted with opaque topcoats.

Thermal brushing

Loose layers of wood under the influence of open fire burn out faster than dense ones. This also plays into our hands, besides, you can save on stain, as the charred wood takes on a darker shade.

But let's not waste unnecessary words, but just show how thermal brushing is performed using a small board as an example.

We bake the surface with a blowtorch, trying to do this evenly, without burning the array too deep. The degree of firing can be any, you choose it yourself.

Now take the brush again and clean out the burnt-out soft layers. We act until the woody structure that is not affected by fire appears.

We sand the surface, sweep out dust from the grooves and evaluate the result.

If you don't like the result, turn the part over and continue to work with the brush in the other direction. But always only along the fibers. Then we repeat the actions from the previous paragraph.

If you wish, you can repeat everything in general from the very beginning - from firing until you achieve the desired effect.

Council. It is desirable to treat the burnt wood with a fire retardant.

In conclusion, as usual, we open the door with varnish or apply another protective coating. And in order to give your door a finished look, it is advisable to choose the appropriate fittings for it: overhead forged hinges, bronze handles, etc.

Conclusion

We told you about the methods of aging wooden doors that are available to any home craftsman. You can supplement them with painting, carving, forging, if these types of applied arts are subject to you.

If you want to learn more on this topic or visualize how the transformation takes place new door to the old one, see the video in this article.

In older houses, entrance and interior wooden doors are usually very durable. They are distinguished by high quality factor and reliability, since in their manufacture they used wood from high quality materials (oak, etc.). Many owners are in no hurry to replace such doors with new metal or plastic ones. How to paint an antique door?

If the design of the house is made in the old style and furnished with antique furniture, then the most suitable option painting its door will serve as painting with the effect of antiquity.

To answer this question, you need to familiarize yourself with the tips and recommendations for carrying out such work. Now it has become fashionable to paint semi-antique doors, especially since new ones have appeared paints and varnishes and technologies have become available to perform such work independently. If the design of the apartment is made in the old style and it is furnished with antique furniture, then the most suitable way to paint the doors would be the so-called aging.

This process consists of the following components:

First of all, you need to remove the old paint or varnish to the main surface of the wood with a spatula.

Unscrew hinges, locks, latches and handles (if any on the doors). This work must be done slowly, otherwise chips may turn out, which will take additional time to process.
The entire surface of the door must be cleaned of dirt and dust. This is done with a sponge soaked in soapy water.
First you need to remove all old paint or varnish to the main surface of the wood. To do this, the doors are set in a horizontal position (for example, they are placed on two benches) and the old coating is removed using a grinder or sandpaper. If the doors are large, the work can be time-consuming, especially if it is done manually. First you need to use coarse sandpaper, and then gradually switch to fine emery.
After that, the very surface of the wooden door must be sanded.
If there are grooves or cracks (cracks, scratches) on it, then they must be putty and, after the leveling layer has dried, sanded down. For putty, mastics and other similar materials are used, matched to the color of the main layer of the tree. The work is performed using a rubber or plastic spatula.

You can remove the old layer of paint using special solvents that are applied with a brush.

Can be used to remove old paint and more modern materials, for example, a special gel or liquid that can be bought on the construction market or in stores of a similar profile. These products are applied to the door surface with a roller or brush. If used chemical substance in an aerosol can, then it is sprayed on the surface of the tree for several minutes. If the layer of old paint is thick enough, then this procedure is carried out several times. Peeling paint is removed with a spatula.

Some people use a hair dryer or blowtorch in such cases. But this method cannot be applied if the doors have glass inserts. They must first be removed and only then used with thermal paint removal. It is better for inexperienced people not to resort to such methods, since when using, for example, a blowtorch, burn marks can remain on the wood, which will nullify all the work. In this case, you will need to follow the safety rules.

Often, after removing the old coating, it turns out that the wood of the door has an uneven color in the form of light and dark places. To align colors you can use special bleaches for wooden structures... They are diluted 1: 3 in water and applied to the wood with a roller.

After this treatment, the paint is easily removed from the door surface. Then it is sanded with fine sandpaper and cracks and depressions are putty.

Antique door painting technology

This work consists of several stages:

First, to get the desired color, practice on any wooden board, cover it with stain. After the desired color scheme is obtained, you can transfer the process to the door: the entire surface of the object is covered with a stain.
For this, a special tampon is made: a piece of cotton is wrapped in a cotton cloth. When working, the stain is added to it so that the liquid cannot leak out. The tree is covered with several layers until the desired color density is obtained. The next layer of stain is applied only after the previous one has dried. If there are glass inserts on the doors, then they must be pasted over with protective masking tape.
To give the door an antique look, it is necessary to artificially make scuffs in its corners, near the keyhole and at the handles. There are two ways to achieve this.
The first method is called brushing. To do this, using metal brushes, they process the entire surface of the door, thus removing the upper, softer layer. A rougher embossed surface remains. Using toning, you can achieve a "patina" effect. In the second method, scuffs can be created using paint in different tones.
Then, with a brush or roller, cover the entire surface of the door with colorless varnish, in several layers. Sometimes after this operation, the hairs of the tree remain reared. To remove them, these places are sanded with fine sandpaper.
Several more coats of colorless varnish are applied.
Locks, handles and hinges are installed on the doors, they are mounted in the proper place.

Required materials and tools

Wooden door.
Putty (primer) for wood.
Sander.
Emery cloth (coarse and fine).
Gel or liquid for paint stripper.
Stain.
Bleach for wood surfaces.
Building hair dryer or blowtorch.
Metal brush.
Masking tape.
Cotton wool and cotton fabric.
Roller or paint brush.
Rubber (plastic) spatula.
Colorless varnish.
Screwdriver.

If you need antiquity on a new door, then all of the above technologies are applicable without changes. Only the preliminary preparation process is excluded.

It is possible to do this work on your own only if phased implementation all of the above recommendations.

- the task is quite within reach even for a beginner.

One of the ways to give the doors an original appearance, sophistication and status, while not using the services of third-party organizations and various finishing specialists, is to make an antique door with your own hands.

All works, regardless of which area finishing works they relate, begin with drawing up a plan of activities to be performed in the process of performing work.

The work must be divided into several stages: preparatory, execution of work, final, each of which corresponds to certain tasks requiring solution and a certain algorithm for their implementation.

Preparatory stage

At this stage of work, the door to be processed is removed from its hinges and prepared for the aging process. If necessary, dismantled and door frameso that the whole door, the aging area, looks the same style.

Immediately I would like to draw your attention to the fact that we can only talk about a wooden door made of solid wood or thick edged timber.

Work begins with the removal of old paint, and in order for it to be removed easily, it must be processed in a special way.

There are several such ways, these are:

Heat treatment - the door leaf and door frame are heated.

Under the influence high temperature paint swells. For these purposes, a building hair dryer is used (when working in an apartment or garage), or a drying chamber or oven - if it is possible to use them.

After heating, old paint removed with a spatula.

Chemical treatment.

For these purposes, various solvents and chemical reagents are used, upon contact with which, the paint applied to the surface of the door is destroyed.

Fragments of damaged paint are removed with a spatula and a soft swab soaked in the chemical used to treat the door.

Mechanical restoration.

This method involves removing old paint by using abrasives (sandpaper) when the removal is done manually, or grinding wheels and brushes mounted on an electric hand tool (angle grinder - "grinder", drill, screwdriver).

After the old paint has been removed, all cracks and chips on the door elements are removed. For this, special mastics and putties are used. The color of the materials used to seal the cracks should be of the same color as the door surface.

When the putty is complete, all surfaces are sanded. For this, an electric hand tool is used, as in the case of machining, with grinding consumables (circles, petals, brushes).

Doors aging work

There are several ways to give appearance doors have an old look, they are: brushing, staining, patina, abrasion and craquelure.

In order to make a decision on how to achieve the desired result, you need to study all of them, and only after that make a decision, which of the ways is most suitable for a specific situation and a specific object of work.

Brushing.

This processing method is performed in the following order:

The surface of the door is treated with a stiff metal brush, so that the soft tissues of the tree are removed and the relief structure of the tree appears on the surface.

The depth of the structure must be uniform over the entire surface of the door leaf.

When the structure has developed, it is necessary to remove the lint and hairiness of the surface, which are formed when processing the surface with a stiff brush. A metal brush fitted with soft wires is used to remove them.

All work is carried out exclusively along the grain of the tree.

After the villi are removed, the surface is polished using a soft polymer brush.
The finished surface is treated with oil, which includes wax.

This method allows you to give the door a natural look of an old product, which cannot be distinguished from a naturally aged structure.

Painting with wood stain.

The most simple and cost-effective way, but requiring attention when performing work and the patience of the user.

Processing is performed in the following sequence:

The prepared surface is covered with an aqueous solution of stain, its excess is removed.
Chips and cracks, which have been treated with putty, are separately coated several times, so that their color matches the color of the door leaf and frame.
If necessary, add saturated color, the stain is applied several times.
After drying, the surface is covered with an alkaline primer and wax, which is rubbed into all door elements.

Patination.

This method is based on the use of several colors of different shades.

The work is carried out as follows:

The surface is covered with paint in a basic, darker color. For this, a spray bottle is used, because the presence of smudges that form when using a brush or roller will ruin the whole work.
After the applied paint, the main color, has dried, paint of a different shade is applied, lighter than the main layer. In this case, a brush is used, while also trying to avoid the formation of smudges. The main task of applying this layer is to draw the structure of the tree (stripes are drawn).
When the second layer of paint begins to dry, but it does not dry completely, the painted surface must be wiped with a dry cloth, so that the originally applied one appears through the second layer in places.
After the second layer has dried, the painted surface is varnished.

Faded canvas.

This method is also performed using paints.

The work is carried out in the following order:

The prepared door surface is painted with dark colors.
After the paint has dried, paraffin is applied to different parts of the door, in accordance with personal desires.
A second layer of paint, lighter colors, is applied over the paraffin layer.
When the paint of the second layer is dry, the applied paraffin is removed with a spatula.
Grinding of the treated surfaces is in progress.
After sanding, the surfaces are treated with wood stain.

Craquelure.

This method is characterized by technologies for producing cracks of various depths on a painted surface.

The name of the aging method "craquelure" is the name of the material with which the effect of breaking the integrity of the paint layers applied to the surface is created.

The order of work is as follows:

A layer of base paint is applied to the door elements.
After drying, craquelure is applied to the surface. For this, a spray bottle is used.
Under the influence of the applied substance, the paint layer is covered with cracks of various depths, giving the door an old look.

The final stage

After the aging of the door is completed, the door leaf and door frame are installed in their place. Their performance is checked and the result obtained is evaluated.

Anyone can make semi-antique doors with their own hands, for this the main thing is to have free time and desire, to do this work on their own, and patience and attentiveness will be a guarantee of success.