Instruction of ojsc "stroy-planet", ufa, republic of bashkortostan on the laying and operation of paving slabs produced by vibrocompression technology. Technology of laying paving stones stage

technology
stacking
sidewalk
tiles

1.General information.
Paving slabs are an ideal coating in frosty winters,
it has high strength and low abrasion resistance.
IN last years this tile began to enjoy large
in demand.
The tile does not emit harmful volatile substances and does not soften under
scorching sun rays. Filled with sand
tile seams allow excess moisture to seep out after
rain, preventing the formation of puddles.

The main advantages of paving surfaces
tiles:
1.On the surface paving slabs never formed
puddles, as excess water goes through the gaps between them.
2.Tile covering has a beneficial effect on environmental friendliness
the surrounding space without disturbing the need for grass
in gas exchange.
3.When dismantling or repair work (e.g. gasket
underground engineering networks) paving slabs easily
removed and, after the necessary repair actions,
stacks up again.
4.B summer period time, the tile floor heats up
significantly less than an asphalt surface, with
this does not soften and does not emit volatile gases
and toxins.
5.Decorative coverage.

TYPES OF PAVING TILES:
1. Paving slabs. It can be made
made of special clay or cement - it is durable
and resistant to various weather conditions and mechanical
exposure material.
2.Rubber paving slabs are a rubber mass
and special colored filler. This tile is frost resistant,
does not fade in the sun, is easy to maintain and install.

3.Polymer and sand based tiles are also
product of a new generation, and it gradually conquers
popularity. Such tiles are lightweight and durable,
frost-resistant, almost impossible to damage.
4. Reinforced paving slabs - manufactured
using iron nets and concrete. Such coverage
capable of withstanding multi-ton loads.

5.Granite paving slabs - will solve the problem of paving
for many decades, since she practically does not need
repairs. It is a beautiful, durable, timeless material.
Usually, the thickness of paving slabs varies within 2060 mm.
The scheme for laying paving slabs can be as simple as
in a certain order, two colors are combined, and complex, with
help with which you can create real drawings.

2. Types of tools and devices used.
Guide beacons
Shovels and bayonet shovels
Rule for leveling sand
Bulgarian-for cutting tiles
Wheelbarrow, stretcher

level
broom, broom
rubber hammer
cord - order
roulette
vibrating plate
wooden pegs

3. Types of materials used.
Sand
Paving slabs 50-60 mm thick
Crushed stone of fraction 10-20mm; 20-50mm
Border
Cement М400 or М500

4. Organization of labor and workplace.
Paving slabs are laid on a pre-prepared
square. High level of end result in to a greater extent depends on
how the surface was prepared. Soil conditions show which species, and
how much sand and gravel is required for a solid and reliable foundation when
laying paving slabs.
When laying paving slabs, there are 3 links consisting of tilers - three people:
* 1 link tiler -4 category-1 person;
tiler -3 category - 1 person;
tiler-2 category-1 person.
The link marks the base, removes the soil.
* 2 link tiler-4 category-1 person
tiler-3 category - 1 person;
tiler - 2 categories - 1 person.
They level, compact the sandy base, arrange drainage.
* 3 link tiler 4 grade-3 persons;
tiler of the 2nd category-3 persons.
Place the tiles in place, cut the tiles to size, fill them dry
mortar seams between the tiles.

5. Safety precautions.
Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect workplace, remove
unnecessary materials, check the serviceability of tools,
inventory and fixtures.
If you need to sharpen the tool or correct the edge
chopped tiles on a grinder, you must wear
protective glasses. Tile sorting and other ancillary work
perform in tight gloves, cutting and trimming tiles - in
safety glasses with shatterproof glasses. Tile trimming and cutting
kneeling is prohibited.
Execute tiling works using electrical
tools are allowed only in rubber shoes and rubber
gloves. When working with sand, cement and other dusty
materials must protect the eyes and airways from
dust, have overalls.

6.Technological process "step by step"
1.Planning and marking the base
To determine the number of tiles and
raw materials required for the base
think over the layout of the site with
taking into account the location and size of it
paths and platforms. One of
basic rules for laying paving
tiles is a necessity
arrangement of paths under a small
slope based on each meter
5 mm so that the water is free
left them in the wells or on
lawns.
Next, when the markup will be
over, follows several times
walk along the future path to
understand how comfortable it is
use, and is it worth
adjust the size and position.

To mark the base, you need stakes, a cord-order
and a tape measure.
Along the zero line (line,
to which will be tilted
site) is necessary
drive four into the ground
peg and pull between
them the cord on the level.
The result will be a rectangle denoted
cords and lying in the plane of the future site
with laid paving slabs.

2. Excavation of turf to a depth of about 15-20 cm. Compaction of the soil.
Preparation of the foundation this stage is very important.
Only high quality
and properly prepared
reason won't give
in a later track or
sit down, so
most will be provided
durability of styling.
the old is removed
coating (soil) and removed
turf by 15-20 cm, and by
-
hollows, pits and hollows -
on the contrary, soil is poured.

Compaction of soil
Rake-leveled base
tamped thoroughly. When
work with soft ground
preferably before tamping
wet the leveled surface
soil with water. Meticulous
compacting the base will allow
prevent unevenness and
subsidence of paving slabs.
if you don't have a special
devices, then you can ram
with improvised means.

3. Installing the curb
To prevent the tiled floor from spreading to the sides, it
it is desirable to secure with borders. We install them on
a concrete pad around the edges of the playground or walkway.
Start with preparation
surfaces where there will be
position the curb. For this in
drive the pegs into the ground and
pull the rope along the line
future curb. Then you need
dig a trench. Depth
the trench needs a little
exceed the height of the cooked
curb stone. Width
trenches - approximately 20 cm,
for sidewalk curb

Using a shovel, mix in
trough sand, cement, water and
fine crushed stone in
proportions of about 2.5: 1: 2.
Apply the solution earlier
compacted sand.
Now we install the curb itself.

4. Arrangement of crushed stone
The next stage is the device of the crushed stone base and its
seal.
This material should be
applied evenly in height and
straightforwardly with the appropriate
slope and surface marking.
Used for compaction of crushed stone
vibrating plate or small
road roller. One place
you need to walk 5-6 times. In the process
compaction crushed stone
be sure to wet.

5. Creating a "pillow" of sand.
On the prepared base layer of crushed stone
you can lay out sand that is not
will only increase the stability of the sidewalk,
but it will also act as a drainage
systems. Dumped sand
need to be leveled with a rake and
pour water until it is
the surface does not form puddles.
Already after 3-4 hours in the sun
weather "pillow" can be given
smooth even shape with
profile, which is also
an ordinary pipe may protrude or
beam. To level the surface
sand layer can be used
inch PVC pipes.
Pipes are placed according to the type of rails, the base of the sand is leveled
at a distance of 2-3 meters from each
rule.
friend.

Necessary carefully
flatten and tamp
sand base.
Sand layer abundantly
wetted with water.
Ramming in sunny
day produced
in about
2-3 hours, and in
cloudy weather on
the next day.

5. Preparation of the cement-sand layer
- a dry sand-cement mixture is prepared (1: 3; 1: 5) and poured into
height 3-5cm, the height of the mixture can be
regulate using installed software
beacon level / metal pipes or
wooden slats /
- poured
dry mix
evenly
distributed across
surfaces
rake.
- the rule
make a screed before
flat
surface.
It will turn out smooth
strip ready
to styling.

7. Laying tiles using the "braided" method
Laying is done by laying
tiles arranged in pairs,
tiles are laid in two pieces
sideways. ... Next pair
fits in such a way that
center line formed
between them was directed up.
Before laying it is necessary
first execute
sorting tiles, laying
her stacks near
prepared area.
defects: bulge,
concavity, curvature.

Necessary before laying
pull the cord along the chamfer Paving masonry
it is better to start tiles from
curb. First row
laid out strictly according to
cord.
The tile is laid out in the direction
"From myself", gradually advancing
forward, you need to go on just now
laid tiles.
First you need to lay
one tile, carefully leveling
it along the axes of the marking.

Tap the tiles with rubber
hammer, sinking the tiles into the ground
to the markup level.
If the tile does not lie flat, you can remove it with a trowel
and pour under it a layer of cement-sand dry mix and
then tamp again.

It is necessary to level the paving slabs with
using a building level and rubber
hammer.

The sequence of laying tiles is selected
depending on the type of tile pattern and the way it is
styling.

The final trimming and fitting of the tiles is best done
at the end of the installation.
Tile trimming is done
using a grinder with a diamond
disc on concrete.

8 joint filling
Having laid the tiles, we check the site for bulges and
irregularities, for this we use a level.

When laying, gaps are formed between the tiles, which
need to be filled. It is the process of filling the gaps
and is called sweeping. For projection we need
dry sand and cement. They need to be mixed in a 1 to 6 ratio.
Spread the mixture evenly over the tile and then
sweep with a broom several times, filling the seams.
By
completion
work
tiles
watered
water.
Debris and sand remains are swept from the finished surface.
It is advisable to walk along the paved path no earlier than
2-3 days after laying it.

Defects in paving slabs and their reasons
appearance.
Individual tiles stick out
or "walking"
The reason was insufficient or
unevenly compacted
Tile failures
on significant areas
Insufficiently compacted base or
the thickness of the base is not observed
Chipped at the edges
tiles
Insufficient joint width
Water gathers under the tiles
there is a "swamp"
There is no slope or
poorly executed drainage
The tile is cracking
Poor quality tiles or loads,
exceeding planned

Labour Organization. Floors made of ceramic tiles Planks a link of tilers. The quantitative and qualifying composition of the link depends on the characteristics and nature of the work performed.

Single-piece laying of tiles in the floor covering

Two tilers of the 2nd category are engaged in auxiliary operations. One of them sorts, puts it in containers and brings it to the place of laying (fig. 58). Another prepares the mortar in a mortar mixer, delivers the ready-made mixture in a trolley to the place of laying, unloads it onto the base and levels it with a rake.

Figure: 58. Sorting tiles: 1 - unsorted tiles, 2 - template for sorting, 3 - container for sorted tiles

The third lining of the 3rd category evens out the mortar mixture according to the rule of the beacons, cleans and moisturizes the base, installs the beacons.

The rest of the link - two tilers of the 4th grade - are breaking down the flooring, installing beacons, laying the tiles on the prepared mortar layer.

Tilers work on footpegs on a wider grasp while standing on fresh mortar. Laying tiles using the widened grip method saves labor costs for preparing the mortar layer.

Approximately half an hour before the end of the shift, three tilers of the 2nd and 3rd grade finish preparatory work and switch to the preparation of tiles for the next shift, cleaning the base, cleaning the workplace.

The workplace of the link of the tiled flooring cladders is organized in accordance with standard schemes (Fig. 59), which graphically depict the location of workers, the location of the necessary mechanisms, inventory, and devices.

Figure: 59. Organization of the working place of the link of the cladders for the piece-by-piece laying of tiles: 1 - grout mixer, 2 - vacuum cleaner, 3 - table for sorting tiles, 4 - leveled mortar layer, 5 - lath-rule, 6 - lighthouse lath, 7 - trolley with mortar, 8 - control lath, 9 - container with tiles, 10 - lighthouse tiles; О 2 -О 5 - workplaces of tilers of the 2nd - 5th grade

Batch tiling using templates performed by a team of five.

Two tilers of the 2nd category on the blank table 3 (Fig. 60) sort the tiles and place them in lattice templates. The third tiler-tiler of the 2nd category prepares the solution in the mortar mixer 1; the prepared mixture is delivered on a cart to the place of laying and leveled with a rake.

Figure: 60. Organization of the working place of the link of the cladders in the batch laying of tiles: 1 - mortar mixer, 2 - templates with packages of tiles, 3 - blank table for sorting tiles, 4 - vacuum cleaner, 5 - lighthouse tiles, 6 - lighthouse rail, 7 - leveled mortar layer, 8 - rule, 9 - trolley with solution, 10 - template with a package of tiles; О 2 -О 4 - workplaces of tilers of 2-4 grade

The fourth and fifth cladders of the 3rd and 4th_digits make a breakdown of the floor covering, install beacons. The lining of the 3rd grade levels the mortar layer to the level of the installed beacons. Together they lay the prepared templates with tiles. The 4th grade liner upsets the template and, if necessary, straightens individual tiles.

Significant volumes of flooring work are performed by a specialized team of tilers, consisting of several similar units.

Safety engineering. Before starting work, the tiling tiler is instructed on safe techniques for completing the production task. The coater inspects the workplace, removes unnecessary materials, checks the serviceability of tools, inventory, devices, puts on overalls.

The tiling worker must wear rubber gloves to protect the skin of the hands from being corroded by the mortar. Sorting of tiles and other ancillary work is performed in tight gloves, cutting and trimming of tiles - in safety glasses with shatterproof glasses. It is prohibited to cut and cut tiles on the knees. Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when handling acid. Rooms where freshly laid floors are wiped with a solution of hydrochloric acid must be ventilated.

When working in darkened rooms (bathrooms, stairwells), temporary lighting should have a voltage no higher than 42 V.

At the end of the work, you should tidy up the workplace, clean tools, remove construction waste (including containers and packaging from tiles). Compliance with these requirements prevents injuries when laying tiled floors.

INSTRUCTIONS of JSC "Stroy-Planeta" Ufa, Republic of Bashkortostan for the laying and operation of paving slabs produced using vibrocompression technology Our manufacturer - JSC "GlavBashStroy" Combine of concrete goods and aerated concrete blocks The production line is presented european equipment firm "MASA" Record 9001 (Germany)

2 It is used to cover sidewalks, park and pedestrian paths, courtyards, playgrounds, lining flower beds, flower beds, strengthening slopes and lawns. Physical and mechanical properties of the material: Frost resistance - F300, Abrasion - 0.7 g / cm 2, Specific radioactivity - 72 bq / kg. The production line is equipped with European equipment from MASA Record 9001 (Germany) - one of the leading manufacturers of equipment for concrete products and stone-forming. Production technology - vibrocompression method. The advantages of using paving slabs made by vibrocompression: heavy concrete of class B30 used in the manufacture has a low water-cement ratio, which reduces cement consumption, provides high strength and frost resistance, products have strict geometry of shapes and parallelism of surfaces, because all are produced in 1 (one) form (matrix), the durability of the pavement (surpasses the asphalt pavement, tiles (production by casting technology) several times), the absence of harmful fumes under the influence sun rays, the level of background radiation is 3 times lower (compared to asphalt pavement). Paving slabs. GOST

3 Preparatory work A high-quality coating system depends largely on proper preparation prior to the laying phase. The first step is to use control "beacons" to mark the area allotted for the track or site, while taking into account the corners of the territory and observe both longitudinal and transverse slopes. Note that the slopes need to be determined in advance. Arrangement of the base After marking the territory, we proceed to the preparation of the base, which can be made of sand, crushed stone or concrete, depending on the purpose of the path or site. Arrangement of the base takes place in several stages: Planning. During this stage, you need to remove the top layer of soil, remove plant roots and tamp the bottom. Note that in some cases it is necessary to level and compact the bottom using gravel or crushed stone. The result is a kind of bed, which is subsequently filled with materials for organizing the base of the track or platform. Drainage and slopes are necessary so that water does not accumulate on the surface. In no case should the slopes be directed towards the foundation of the building, since it is thanks to these differences in the height of the coating that most of the rainwater is removed. A smaller part of it goes into the ground through the seams of the surface. For this reason, waterproof materials such as gravel or crushed stone are often used as the supporting drainage layer. Laying the base layer. As a bearing layer are used various materials, starting with sand (in the case of laying tiles for pedestrian areas with low traffic) and ending with concrete, which is used to equip areas with high traffic and problem soils. Regardless of which material is chosen for the carrier layer, it is necessary to adhere to the following rules: the thickness of the layer depends on the expected load on the coating: the higher the permeability, the more material will be needed to form the base. At very high loads on the surface, the supporting base is laid in several layers; the bearing layer is laid evenly, but taking into account the slopes; each layer is compacted using a vibrating plate, roller or manual compaction. Laying of paving slabs Preparatory work

4 Arrangement of curbs. Curbs or curbs are installed on M100 mortar in pre-prepared trenches located around the perimeter of the base (in the case of sand or gravel base). If the bearing layer is made of concrete, then trenches are not required. Also note that curbs and curbs reach half the height of a tile or paving stone. Laying a sand or cement-sand layer under paving stones. This stage cannot be avoided if materials such as sand or crushed stone act as a supporting base. In the first case, an additional sandy layer acts as a continuation of the sandy base. In the second case, the layer laid directly under the tiles or paving stones is a dry mixture of cement and sand. However, regardless of the material of which the leveling layer consists, the following recommendations should be observed: first, it is necessary to set the guide rails in accordance with all the slopes and fix them; the underlying layer is leveled using a rule so that it is about 1 cm above the level of the tile. This is done so that the tile remains at the intended level after leveling the covering and slight subsidence of sand or cement-sand mixture; in order to get a flat surface, subsequently the leveling strips must be removed and the resulting pits filled with sand or dry mixture. At this stage, the preparation of the base ends. Additional recommendations before starting work on laying tiles Naturally, it makes no sense to lay paving slabs "by eye": you first need to pull the cord along the entire length and width of the site. This will allow you to accurately observe the geometry of the lines of seams and slopes. We recommend that you check the position of the joints every 2-3 rows of tiles. Laying should start from the lowest point to a higher one or from some important element of the exterior (for example, from the front door). The tiles can be leveled with a rubber mallet or vibrating plate if the tiles are over the set level. It is also allowed to add dry mix or sand under the coating if, after laying, the tile has dropped lower. It should be noted that the surface is considered level if the deviations are 0.5 - 1 cm for every 2 meters. If necessary, a finishing device, the tile can be cut with a "grinder" saw, equipped with a special saw blade with diamond coating. This will allow you to get the material of the required size without much labor and money: on an object with an area of \u200b\u200bup to 100 m 2, on average, up to two discs are consumed. Laying of paving slabs Preparatory work

Tools required for laying work: shovel and bayonet shovels, paving cutters, grinder with diamond discs for cutting paving stones, vibrating plate with a pad, a rule for leveling sand and a sieve, wheelbarrow, stretcher, guides, level, leveling cord, brush, rubber mallet, water supply hose. 1.Prepare the bed by removing the top layer of soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk path or site. In this case, it is very important to remove the roots of the plants to avoid their germination and to compact the bottom. 2.Pour sand into the prepared bed with a layer of cm and carefully level it with a rule or a rake, taking into account the slopes for water flow (at least 0.5 - 1 cm per meter). 3.Pour plenty of water from a watering can or hose onto the base, observing a minimum water consumption of 10 liters per square meter... 4. Tamp the sandy base with a manual rammer in order to avoid subsidence of the base when using the sidewalk (fig. 2). Figure: 2 For pedestrian and low traffic areas. The type of installation is recommended for private estates, cottage settlements, inner courtyards 5 Fig. one

Fig To set the curbs, dig trenches to the required depth along the edges of the base. Plant the curbs in M100 mortar, then spill concrete and fill with sand. (Fig. 3) 6. Lay the tiles according to the chosen laying method, leaving small gaps of 0.5 - 0.7 cm. 7. When laying, use a level regularly, not forgetting about the slopes. In order to ensure even laying, use vibrating plates and massive rubber mallets if the tiles are above the required level. If, on the contrary, it is lower, then you can add additional sand under one or more stones. 8. Fill the gaps between the tiles with sifted sand or dry mix. The easiest way to do this is to pour sand onto the sidewalk and use a brush to move it over the entire surface. (Fig. 4) 9. Remove excess dry mix or sand with a gentle jet of water. In doing so, pay attention to the fact that the filler is not washed out of the gaps. Brush off any remaining dirt and mixture from the pavement surface and the installation is complete. Figure: 3

1.Prepare the bed by removing the top layer of soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk path or site. In this case, it is very important to remove the roots of the plants in order to avoid their germination and to compact the bottom. 2.Pour crushed stone into the prepared bed in a layer of cm and carefully level it, taking into account the slopes for water flow (at least 0.5 - 1 cm per meter). 3. Tamp the crushed stone with a manual rammer (Fig. 6) 4. To set the curbs, dig trenches to the required depth along the edges of the base. Plant curbs on M100 mortar, then pour concrete and fill with sand (Fig. 7) Fig. 6 Fig. 7 7 Recommended for areas with moderate traffic and parking lots. Laying is carried out on a crushed stone base with a dry mixture Fig. 5

5. On top of the crushed stone, pour a cement-sand mixture with a layer of 5 - 10 cm. If, according to the plan, it is necessary to install a reinforcing mesh, then lay it (Fig. 8) 6. Lay the tiles in accordance with the chosen masonry method, leaving small gaps of 0, 5 - 0.7 cm. 7. When laying, use a level regularly, not forgetting about slopes as well. To ensure even laying, use vibrating plates and massive rubber mallets if the tiles are above the required level. If, on the contrary, it is lower, then you can add additional dry mixture under one or more stones (Fig. 9). 8 Fig. 9 8

8. Spill plenty of water over the sidewalk and wait until the walkway is completely dry, then start filling the gaps between the tiles with dry mix. (Fig. 10) 9.Pour the treadmill again, taking care not to wash the filler out of the gaps. 10.To avoid solidification of the solution on the surface, remove its excess. Make sure the sidewalk is completely free of mortar and the joints are filled with mortar. (Fig. 11) Installation is completed, the covering is ready for use. Figure: Fig. 10 11 9

1.Prepare the bed by removing the top layer of soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk path or site. In this case, it is very important to remove the roots of the plants in order to avoid their germination and to compact the bottom. 2.Pour crushed stone into the prepared bed in a layer of cm and carefully level it. 3. Tamp the crushed stone with a manual rammer (Fig. 13) 4. Install formwork along the edges of the future sidewalk or site, taking into account that the boards should be more than 4 cm in thickness. Note that the boards are fixed with stakes located at a distance of 60 - 100 cm from each other. (Fig. 14) Rice Recommended for the construction of blind areas, zones and areas with high traffic and load, also in problematic soils. Laying is done on concrete base Figure: Fig. 12 13

5. Fill the crushed stone with a layer of concrete 5 - 15 cm. For greater strength of the base, reinforcement with a road mesh is used. In this case, first lay the mortar in a layer of 3 cm and place the reinforcing material on it, then fill it with concrete. It is also worth noting here that with a large installation area, it is recommended to leave expansion joints (0.5 cm) every 3 meters. This way you can protect the concrete base from cracking in winter. (Fig. 15) 5. After placing the concrete, level the surface finally, taking into account the level of the base and the slopes. (Fig. 16) Fig. 15 Rice

7.Fix the curbs with M100 mortar, subsequently pouring them with concrete and filling them with sand (Fig. 17) 8. After wetting the base, lay the tiles on a cement-sand screed, the layer of which should be 1 - 3 cm. (Fig. 18) 9. Seal expansion joints with elastic filler to protect against cracking. 10. Carefully fill the gaps between the tiles with grout or mortar, taking care to avoid getting the mortar on the face of the stones. If, nevertheless, this happened, then immediately remove the excess solution. Laying of the tiles is completed, after 48 hours the coating is ready for use. Figure: 17 Rice

The pavement does not require any special care or special cleaning equipment. When laying paving slabs in urban conditions, it is recommended to wash the surface every 2-3 days, in high traffic conditions - daily. On the territory of their own property, cottage or country house paving slabs will look neat when washed with water once a week. With soapy water, a mop and a stream of clean water, you can easily get rid of any natural dirt on the surface of the coating. Attention should be paid to the following features of the care and operation of the coating: 1.To avoid damage to the flat surface, it is not recommended to move vehicles along the pedestrian zone with a paving slab thickness of up to 6.0 cm. 2.In the case of using the coating for traffic, the laying technology requires additional reinforcement with a concrete base (see part 3 of this document) 3.To remove snow and ice in the autumn and winter period it is contraindicated to use metal shovels, crowbars and other metal piercing and cutting tools, this can damage the coating surface. 4. In order to avoid erosion of the paving surface, it is not recommended to use: abrasive mixtures, mixtures containing salt to remove ice. In this case, it is recommended to use ordinary river sand. 5.To give the surface of the coating shine, brightness and color saturation, it is recommended to treat with special hydrophobizing compounds. They make the surface water-repellent and protect the concrete from exposure to water, water vapor and salt solutions, as well as organic solvents. 13 Sidewalk coverage: care and maintenance

Before purchasing sidewalk coverage, you should decide on several points Composition of the batch: 1. Purpose of the coverage area (pedestrian zone, parking, pedestrian zone and the movement of cars, etc.) 2. Desired pattern, tile shape and color scheme drawing, composition, combination with the landscape. 3. The composition of the composition and the need for completions, the presence of curbs and gutters, the dimensions of the site, etc. 4. We remind you that during the installation process, when cutting to size, some of the tiles will go to waste. The amount of such waste depends on the shape, size of the surface to be covered, and the method of laying (for example, the diagonal method of laying gives more waste than the parallel method). Leave a few spare tiles in stock in case you need to replace something or need minor repairs. Taking into account waste, it is recommended to purchase the coverage area 5-7% more than the area of \u200b\u200bthe surface to be coated. ( The best option will purchase for 2 sq. meter of area is more, because with an erroneous calculation or a desire to make a replacement, the tone of the new batch of goods may not exactly match your palette). Color palette: 1. The original color of concrete tiles depends on the dye used, is determined at the request of the buyer and agreed upon upon sale (this criterion is not a characteristic of GOST). 2. During operation, a change in the color of a concrete tile / surface (fading) is not a criterion defined by the requirements of GOST. The tiles dry out gradually and unevenly - color alignment occurs during its operation. 14 Notes to the Buyer

Salting out concrete *: During operation, lime stains may appear on the surface of the tiles. This is due to the natural process of concrete salting out. This process does not reduce the strength characteristics of the tiles and can only affect the aesthetic appearance of colored products. The efflorescence process reaches its maximum after a year of operation and fades away two years after the start of operation. The disappearance of efflorescence is due to the fact that calcium carbonate on the concrete surface enters into a slow reaction with carbon dioxide dissolved in water and turns into bicarbonate, soluble in water, which is washed off by precipitation or in the process of washing the surface. The paving slabs coating has increased resistance to aggressive environments. So solutions of acid, alkali and other chemically active compounds when they hit the surface of the coating do not change its structure, which makes it possible to use paving slabs on the territory filling stations and other areas of work with aggressive agents. Replacement and renovation work: Paving slabs produced by JSC "GlavBashStroy" are distinguished by their durability and wear resistance due to the advanced production technology of products - the method of vibrocompression. In places of high traffic, heavily abraded tiles can be easily and simply changed, while it is not necessary to completely reposition the entire coating, leaving its integrity and reducing maintenance costs * Lime spots appear on the concrete surface due to the formation of free lime when cement sets, which, dissolving in water comes out to the concrete surface through capillary pores, forms an insoluble compound in the form of a whitish coating - calcium carbonate CaCO3. 15

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1. Determination of the quality of the existing surface layer before laying paving slabs

A carefully prepared base for the sidewalk, along with the quality of the tiles themselves, are the key to a long service life of the sidewalk.

First you need to decide on the elevation marks. Slopes should be designed in such a way that all water, as organized as possible, is diverted from buildings and structures to places intended for receiving rainwater. It is necessary to correctly foresee the installation sites of the trays, even with the correct slopes, but with the drain outside the tray, along the tiled canvas, in winter, problems in these areas with the formation of ice are possible.

Substrate preparation should begin by determining the quality of the existing surface layer. It can be from the category that falls under the mandatory removal, or the existing layer can be left and the base for the tile can be cooked on top of it. It is desirable, of course, in your specific case, to consult with a specialist, but roughly speaking, you can give the following recommendations for the existing surface layer.

The existing layer is removed if:

There are problems with elevation marks (problems with closing doors, draining water, etc.);

The existing surface layer contains vegetation (grass) because the likelihood that it will grow through the tiled sheet increases;

Ground disturbed for less than two years. Excavation is required! if not eliminated, serious failures and subsidence of the tile are possible.

There is no need to remove the existing layer if:

This is sand;

Compacted soil;

Crushed stone, construction waste in a compacted state that does not require planning, does not create problems with water drainage.

If it is nevertheless necessary to carry out excavation, then these works should be mechanized as much as possible. This will help reduce the cost of work, although initially it may seem different. During excavation, care must be taken not to remove excess soil. This can affect the overrun of rubble or sand. It is impossible to fill back the excavated soil.

Elevation marks and slopes of the tile canvas. Layout of the site for laying.

A carefully prepared base for the sidewalk, along with the quality of the tiles themselves, are the key to a long service life of the sidewalk.

To begin work on the preparation of the underlying layers for the paving slabs should be with a competent approach to determining the elevation marks and marking the future slabs.

Take heights for large volumes and areas of laying, as well as when laying along difficult terrain, best of all with a level. If we are talking about the improvement of the territory of a cottage, office or store, it is quite possible to cope with the hydro level or with the help of twine and the usual level. The level is a building device used by builders. They know their business and there is no need to explain how to use it. But if you decide to do it yourself, then most likely you do not have a level. Options with a hydro level or nylon twine are suitable for you

Almost everything is clear when using the hydro level. If you remember the school physics course, then you know that the mirror of water in communicating vessels, which is the hydro level, is always at the same mark. If one flask of the hydro level is placed with the level of the water surface to a certain elevation mark, and the other is placed at a certain distance and a notch is also made along the level of the water surface, then the elevation marks will coincide

You can proceed in the following way. Take a piece of nylon twine or fishing line ~ 0.8mm in diameter, pull it between the two marks and fix it. Then take a regular level 0.5m-1m long and gently bring it parallel to the twine so that it barely touches both ends of the nylon twine without touching it. As soon as the level is in the desired position, at this moment you look at the level readings and draw a conclusion about the slope.

2. Marking the site for laying paving stones

Before starting work, it is necessary to mark future sidewalks and determine the required elevation marks. If your work is carried out by specialists, and you have a plan for your improvement, then we can say that you already have everything you need. Qualified specialists, efficiently and competently carry out the markings on the ground and transfer the elevation marks of the surface of the future sidewalk to the terrain.

But if you plan to carry out the improvement on your own, then in this case you must first think over everything and follow the proverb: "Measure seven times, one cut."

Prepare pegs 50 cm long. They can be either wooden or metal. The pegs should be driven into the ground in the corners of the site for laying and at the bends of the sidewalk and sidewalk paths. When all these points are marked, we move on to the most important moment - the choice of elevations.

Height marks.

The main task of sidewalk paths and squares, in addition to the aesthetic load, is the drainage of rainwater from their surfaces, so the choice of elevation marks can be conventionally called: water drainage from the point "FROM" to the point "TO"

"DO" is the place or places where rainwater will be diverted. This can be: lawn, gutter, moat, etc. That is, places where rainwater will not bother anyone. It is not possible to drain rainwater into city sewer systems.

With the "OT" point, you need to think a little. It can be, for example, the limiting height of the tiled sheet, at which the doors will close without problems, even in winter, taking into account ice, etc. It is necessary to dance in choosing this point naturally knowing the point "TO". The "FROM" point must be higher than the "TO" point. A slope of at least 1 cm in height per 1 meter of length (1: 100) is considered normal. Tiled fabric, after laying, whether we like it or not, undergoes deformation (that is, it bends). With high-quality laying and the production of all the necessary earthworks, these deformations are minimal and the specified slope guarantees the drainage of water from the sidewalk.

If the condition is met. "FROM" -\u003e MINIMUM INCLINATION (1: 100) -\u003e t. "TO" then you can safely start the removal of elevations to the local area. (The slope in this case must be at least as indicated).

If the observance of this condition is impossible, then it is necessary to revise the directions of the slopes and it can be organized to withdraw to other places. Sometimes removing excess soil helps. Sometimes, the breakdown of a complexly organized drainage of rainwater into simpler components, but in any case, it is imperative to maintain a minimum slope.

Preparation of the base for laying paving slabs.

Underlying layers.

After marking and staking out heights behind, let's move on to one of the most significant questions. Subbase preparation.

The sub-base is a compacted bulk material between the existing soil and the tile. These are as a rule: Crushed stone, Sand, Cement-sand mixture. The underlayment serves two purposes:

Conclusion of heights for the given values;

Protection of the sidewalk from soil heaving in winter.

Subbase structure (top to bottom):

Tile (thickness - 6 cm)

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - up to 20 cm);

Existing soil.

There are certain technologies for arranging the underlying layers (from top to bottom):

Option 1. For difficult cases (truck traffic, problems with existing soil):

Cement mortar (thickness - 3 cm);

Reinforced concrete (thickness - 10-15 cm);

Option-2. For the passage of cars:

Cement-sand mixture (DSP) (thickness - 3 cm);

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - 20 cm).

Option-3. For footpaths:

Cement-sand mixture (DSP) (thickness - 3 cm);

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - 10 cm).

The choice of technology should be determined by the requirements that will be imposed on the tile sheet in the future, during operation. If the sidewalk path is intended for the passage of pedestrians, then there is no need for concreting according to option No. 1. These are unnecessary and unjustified costs. And vice versa, if the soils are prone to subsidence, then by arranging an underlying layer for the passage of cars, according to option 2, you will get problems with the sidewalk and headaches in the future. It is advisable to entrust the choice of this or that technology to a specialist, especially since there are often combined options, when several technologies are applied at one object (for sidewalk paths - option-3, for the passage of cars - option-2, etc.). In this case, the installation costs will be optimal.

Mention should also be made of the cheapest option for installing a base for tiles. We are talking about laying paving slabs only on sand. In my opinion, this option deserves attention and is quite reliable with an appropriate approach. For it, the following conditions must be met:

1) The existing soil must be of natural long-term compaction !!!

2) Do not allow the sand to wash out from under the tiles. To do this, all joints between the borders are coated with a solution, especially from the inside;

3) The drainage of rainwater must be carried out in an orderly manner, strictly according to trays, which in turn must be installed on the solution.

When these three conditions are met, the paving slab will serve you as long as if the laying technology is observed, but the cost of the work in the complex will be much less.

Let's consider the components of the underlying layer.

Both granite and limestone are used, fractions 20-40. Where this fraction is large, i.e. elevation marks do not allow its use, fraction 5-20 is used. The use of sludge significantly reduces the cost of the underlying layer.

By technology it is used for the device of the upper leveling layer. Any sand can be used, but free of clay particles and stones.

Cement-sand mixture.

The ratio is 1: 8. Mix thoroughly, preferably in a mortar mixer. Cement M500. Prepared in volume based on daily production. The unworked DSP becomes unusable the next day.

The installation of the underlying layer should be made in layers of about 10 cm, with the obligatory layer-by-layer compaction with mechanical vibrating plates, or spill them with water. Experience has shown that pouring is effective even with thicker layers. Water also reaches places that are difficult to access or even inaccessible for vibrating plates (various abutments).

3. Technology of laying paving slabs

Tiled canvas can be visually divided into the following categories.

By color:

1) Single color (from tiles of the same color);

2) Multicolor (from tiles of two or more colors).

In the direction of the seam:

1) Chaotic (no patterns);

2) Unidirectional (the seam is clearly visible in one or more directions);

3) Radial (seams are in circles or radial curvatures).

Having determined your styling option and color range, you need to bind it to the surrounding objects. The binding is carried out to the inputs and outputs. The priority, of course, is the central entrance to the building. You will determine the subsequent priorities for yourself. There is such a thing in laying as "tile trimming". Cut the tiles in places where their shape does not allow them to take the appropriate place. An example is the distortion of the geometric dimensions of a building, and this is actually not uncommon. The clipped tile does not look very beautiful in comparison with the whole one, but this is a normal action and you simply cannot do without it on many objects. As a rule, there is no rigid binding to the pavement sections, where there must be a clipping, and where it should not be. You yourself can shift the stacking axes in order to shift the trim to one side or the other. Depending on this, the cutting areas will also change. Of course, there may be no cropping, for example, on sidewalk paths, where knowing the width at which the tile will become without clipping between your borders, drive this size the entire length of the track. Above, I started talking about the priorities of laying precisely for the purpose so that you can determine for yourself the parts of the sidewalk to which you can transfer pruning and where it will not be conspicuous, and to which the transfer of pruning is very undesirable, such as the central entrance to the building ...

Now let's move on to describing the process of laying paving slabs. There are several technologies for laying paving slabs, but consider the most common of them: laying paving slabs along guides. We assume that all the previous steps for marking and preparing the base have already been completed.

To get started, you will need at least: an assistant - 1 person, a shovel, nylon twine or thread or fishing line, the rule level is 3m, the guides are a square tube 25x40 or similar round, at least 3 pieces of 3 meters each, level 1m, a bucket, trowel, rubber mallet, whisk, vibrating plate (if possible).

Connect the elevation marks placed on the pegs along the perimeter with a nylon twine, you will receive the marks of the top of your future tiled canvas.

THE MAIN RULE OF LAYING: By connecting, mentally or with a thread, any point of the nylon twine stretched between the pegs with known elevations on one side, with any other point, the second stretched twine, between other pegs with other known elevations, you get the top of the future sidewalk! This is the most important thing to remember. If you are in doubt about the elevation marks anywhere in the future sidewalk, just use this rule.

Take any rectangular styling pad as an example. Then everything is done according to the standard scheme: Laying is done in "stripes". The width of the strip is 3 meters (for the size of your rule), and the length is from one taut twine on one side of the site, to the opposite, on the other. This gives you the heights of the start and end of the strip. Using the main rule of laying, pull three parallel threads along the entire length of the strip, at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. Starting on one side of the strip, lay one pipe under each of the three taut threads. You know the thickness of the tile and you use a tape measure, or directly with the tiles, or, on the contrary, raise the pipe so that the top of the tile on the pipe touches the stretched thread. For each of the pipes, a size equal to the thickness of the tile is measured in two places, at the beginning of the pipe and at the end. By doing this with three pipes, you get the elevation of your sub-base at the top of the pipes.

Use a shovel to add or vice versa, cut off excess sand. Then add cement-sand to a level slightly above the height of the exposed pipes. If you cut, do not try to get it out perfectly with a shovel. This is not needed now. If you add, then, accordingly, it is better to pour a little more. Then tamp the base well again without knocking down the pipes. sidewalk pavers tiled

Next, with an assistant, take the rule and leaning the rule on 3 pipes at the same time, moving it left-right, and a little towards yourself, carefully cut off the excess. As a result, you should have a flat surface with three pipe surfaces visible from the mixture.

Remove the pipes carefully. Pour a cement-sand mixture into the niches left from them and, walking along them with "ant" steps, as children say, ram these strips with your weight. Take the 1m level and, as if covering up your tracks, level the area up to the end.

As a result, you get a flat area of \u200b\u200b3m x 3m. Ready to install paving slabs.

Further, on this site, relative to the selected axis and in accordance with the selected option and the color scheme of laying, lay out the tiles, tapping each one as needed. For professionals, 1 blow per 1 tile is enough) After completing a small area, check the correct installation. To do this, measure the dimensions from the axis to the extreme tiles. And if the canvas "leaves", by striking at the ends of the extreme tiles, you try to bring the dimensions in line. If the error is detected late and the area of \u200b\u200bthe laid tiles is large, then there are still chances to fix it. To do this, take a trowel and from the middle to the edge, if you need to reduce the gaps in the seams, or vice versa, from the edge to the middle, if you need to increase, move the tile in order.

Thus, having laid one or several sites with dimensions of 3m x 3m, you get a certain laid area. It is impossible to leave it in this form overnight, as the cement-sand mixture, under the influence of moisture, will set and the tile will "jump" in height. It will already be quite difficult to fix it. To do this, using the same trowel, eliminate the unevenness of the seams. It is convenient to do this by stretching every few rows, usually three rows, an additional thread and align the seam along this thread with a trowel.

After completing the alignment of the seams, take ordinary dry sand, sprinkle it over the entire area with a thin layer and sweep it with a broom at the seams. Thus, you prepare the site for punching. Take a vibrating plate (always with a rug) and punch your site. Under the blows of the vibrating plate, the tiles are leveled in height, and the sand wakes up between the seams. Then sprinkle more sand if this is not enough and repeat the procedure a few more times until the seams are filled to the top.

If you do not have a vibrating plate, then take a flat 50x50 block with a length of about 70 cm, put it horizontally on areas where you can see that the tile "jumps" and with a hammer level the tile in height. If there are no gaps under the bar, then the goal has been achieved. The procedure is more time consuming, but without it, nowhere. The seams, in turn, can be spilled with water, but not with a jet, which can blur everything, but from a watering can, for example.

To lay paving slabs on garden and park paths, you must follow the steps below:

1. Site marking.

Before laying paving slabs, it is necessary to prepare the base. Draw the layout of the area to be paved. Based on the size of the plot, calculate required amount tiles for laying with a margin for undercut, not less than 5-10% of the paving area. To minimize undercutting, the calculated width of the side of the paving section, excluding the curb thickness, should be a multiple of 15 cm + 1 cm of the seam on each side of the section. Apply markings to the subgrade, taking into account the slope for water flow. Water should go from the path to the drainage wells, to the lawns. The slope can be made longitudinal, transverse, longitudinal-transverse, but not less than five millimeters per meter of coverage. Please note: the trench for the area that will be covered with tiles should be 40-50 cm wider than the area itself. This is necessary to install the curbstone.

2. Preparation of the base.

Remove the vegetative layer of soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe trench, being careful not to damage the caked base soil. Be sure to carry out the last stage of soil sampling manually. In some cases, tamping the bottom of the trench can be effective. The required (calculated) depth of the trench is 27 cm. The fertile layer must be removed completely to dense soil (loam, sandy loam, etc.). If the depth of the trench after excavation of the fertile layer exceeds the calculated one, compensate for the difference in heights by backfilling with sand.

3. Arrangement of the base under the curb.

Inside the trench, on the sides, dig grooves for the curb 24 cm wide and 5 cm deep. Level and tamp the groove surface. To prevent root germination and deformation roadway, cover the leveled soil of the entire trench with geotextile, if necessary, this can be done with an overlap (at least 10 cm). Then fill the grooves under the curb with sand and tamp. If you are using dry sand, spill it with water. Place the formwork and pour the concrete base 24 cm wide and 15 cm high. Recommended concrete class is B22.5 (M300).

4. Installation of a curbstone.

The curbstones are installed on a freshly poured concrete base. After their installation, a concrete cage is arranged in the formwork to a height of 10 cm from the outside and 5 cm from the inside. The curb must be installed at least one day before the start of paving slabs, so that the concrete of the cage gains sufficient strength.

5. Installation of the base and laying of tiles.

The base is covered with several layers. The first layer consists of 5-20 mm or 20-40 mm crushed stone. The layer thickness after tamping should be 15 cm. Tamp the crushed stone with a vibrating plate or a manual rammer. The second layer consists of a cement-sand mixture. Immediately before laying the tiles, fill the substrate with freshly prepared cement-sand mixture. The height of the layer of the mixture, taking into account its compaction, is 8 cm. The recommended cement-sand ratio is 1: 3. Moisten the mixture to the state of wet sand (about 3 liters of water per 50 kg of cement). To strengthen the cement-sand mixture, it is desirable to use a plasticizing additive. Stir the mixture well until smooth. Prepare the mixture as it develops.

After backfilling, level the mixture with a lath. The tiles are laid on the poured and leveled cement-sand mixture, immediately, without waiting for it to set. Before laying, lay out 1-2 m2 of paving slabs separately, check the color match and the ratio of the elements. The adjacent arrangement of several elements of the same size is not recommended. Admissible adjacent arrangement of two small elements (with a side of 15 cm), adjacent mutually perpendicular arrangement of two rectangular elements one size. Also pay attention to the patching of the seams. Try to minimize the length of the seams. Seams longer than 2 m (with the exception of the expansion joint) are undesirable. At the junctions, trimming may be required. If necessary, the protrusions along the edges of one or more tiles can be carefully beaten off or cut off with a grinder with a disc over the stone. Take paving slabs from several pallets at the same time.

This is necessary to ensure an even distribution of shades. Try not to allow accumulations of dark or light tiles; if necessary, contrasting clusters are easily "broken" by replacing several tiles of the opposite tone. Immediately before installing the tiles, apply White Hills Extra adhesive to the back with a notched trowel to improve adhesion to the substrate. Prepare the adhesive solution in accordance with the instructions on the package. Paving slabs should be rammed into the cement-sand mixture with a rubber mallet. The level can be controlled by the taut string. After laying, if the mixture or glue gets on the surface of the tile, clean it. Cover the paving area with plastic wrap so that it does not touch the tile surface.

6. Grouting.

Start filling the joints no earlier than 72 hours after the cement-sand mixture and adhesive have set. During this time, the load on the tiles should be eliminated. Clean the seams well, remove excess adhesive if necessary. The minimum thickness of the trowel is 10 mm. Moisten the tile in the joint area before grouting. This will make it easier to clean the grout from the tile surface. Prepare the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. The joints between the tile and the border are filled with a waterproof grout, using a polyethylene bag, ensuring a continuous and complete filling of the joint width. The joint height should be 0.5 - 1 cm) below the tile level. Wait 40-60 minutes for the grout to set. After that, use a damp sponge to remove excess grout from the tile and grout surface. Avoid prolonged (more than 2 hours) contact of the solution with the front surfaces of the plates, otherwise cleaning of the plates will be difficult.

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Laying paving slabs on a monolithic base

This technology is very expensive and requires many additional work processes, but it is necessary if high and intense loads on the pavement are expected, because the rammed bulk foundation is not able to perceive them.

The essence of the technology is to create a kind of platform that will not be susceptible to problem soils that bulge, sag and deform in every possible way, and will evenly distribute the load from the operation of the sidewalk.

In this case, there is only one way of laying - laying paving slabs on a mortar, while there are several options for the surface:

laying paving slabs on concrete; laying of paving slabs on the asphalt.

There are many rules and regulations regarding loads on a concrete base, all of them are calculated according to SNiP (building codes and regulations) - concrete grade, reinforcement class and its diameter, etc., etc., let's consider the main options for a private suburban arrangement.

Laying paving slabs on concrete implies not just on a concrete pad, but on a whole reinforced plate, 10 cm thick with a reinforcing mesh frame with a 10x10 cm cell made of reinforcement, preferably A400C with a diameter of 10 mm.

The plate can have a more complex reinforcement structure and a thicker concrete layer.

Such coverage is provided on unstable soils, as well as in places of constant high and intense loads, the most elementary example of such a case is parking lots.

It is clear that laying concrete paving slabs in a private suburban area on a layer of concrete is most often a bedding of compacted crushed stone, on which a 10 cm concrete pad with 6 mm reinforcement is laid. The tile itself is laid out on a 2 cm layer of cement-sand mortar (the higher the concrete strength grade, the better).

Laying of paving slabs on asphalt according to the technology as such is not provided, it is carried out if the old asphalt pavement (in a private house) it was decided to replace it, but the owners do not want to dismantle it.

In this case, it is necessary to remove the areas that do not adhere well and fill them concrete mortar (there is, as a rule, a crushed stone embankment under the asphalt). In addition, it is necessary to level the pits, "open up the cracks" and also fill them with concrete.

If there is asphalt, then it is better to "patch" the old pavement with it, in short, to perform ordinary repairs, as roads are patched. Such a base for laying paving slabs must be cleaned of dirt and dust with water from a hose, after which you can start laying a couple of cm on a layer of mortar.

Instruction of ojsc "stroy-planet", ufa, republic of bashkortostan on the laying and operation of paving slabs produced by vibrocompression technology. Technology of laying paving stones stage - Grouting of paving slabs

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1. Determination of the quality of the existing surface layer before laying paving slabs