Everything about the correct insulation of the loggia. How to insulate a balcony for a living room? The most common options for heat insulators

Recently, more and more apartment owners in multi-storey buildings decide to expand their area by using a balcony. This is a great option if you figure out how you can properly insulate and equip it from the inside.

If the balcony is not glazed, windows must be installed before insulation. It is better to choose double-glazed windows of high quality, without saving, because the amount of heat in the apartment depends on them. Elements of window structures should adhere to each other as tightly as possible so that drafts do not enter the house.

The balcony is a part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people begin to equip their balconies for an additional room, for example, a personal office. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to produce competent insulation of the structure from the inside.

Balcony insulation stages

In modern technologies of insulation of open hanging structures (balconies) four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene, penoplex, penofol and mineral wool. Consider the technological features of installation and the types of wadded insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

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1. First, the existing gaps are closed. It is necessary to carefully examine the balcony and determine their location. The problem can be eliminated with the help of polyurethane foam, even if the slots are quite wide, only you need to choose a high-quality one, for example, "Macroflex", "Soudal", "Moment Montage". After the foam dries, the excess is trimmed with a utility knife.

2. Waterproofing the balcony from the inside. For these purposes, you can use penetrating waterproofing "Aquatron", "Penetron" and the like. They are applied with a brush, roller or spray method. The advantage of penetrating waterproofing is that it penetrates the walls, making them more resistant to low temperatures and more durable. In addition, waterproofing eliminates all microcracks that are not visible to the “naked” eye.

3. Laying thermal insulation material. For this purpose, you can use polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, mineral plates, etc.

Laying the vapor barrier. You can use polymer "breathing" membranes, vapor barrier films "Izospan", "Rockwool" and the like, or, in extreme cases, penofol, which is laid with the foil side towards the apartment. So the heat leaving the room will come back.

4. Outdoor decoration ceiling and walls on the balcony.

Insulation option in which there is no additional insulation

This technique can be used provided that materials are available that have low vapor permeability (we are talking about materials such as foam, expanded polystyrene, or extruded polystyrene foam).

# 1. Balcony insulation with expanded polystyrene: sequence of works

If you chose expanded polystyrene as a heater, then the sequence of work is as follows:

After all the cracks are closed and the waterproofing is done, the surface is treated with a deep penetration primer, for example, Ceresit. This can be done with a brush or spray. The primer is poured into a bucket or other container that you do not mind, then applied to the surface. Carefully work on the walls, ceiling and floor to achieve maximum adhesion of the insulation boards to them.

After applying the primer, wait at least six hours, then continue working. If the wall is made of cinder concrete, then the primer is carried out twice.

Have a rest - we continue. We unpack the expanded polystyrene plates. They are attached with glue and fasteners. The glue must be prepared according to the instructions and mixed thoroughly. Then apply it on the first sheet, which is glued to the surface (do not forget to step back three centimeters from the edges, and leave small gaps between the sheets). Install the expanded polystyrene sheets in a checkerboard pattern.

It is up to you to lay a vapor barrier or not. In this case, it is not necessary to do it.

Reinforcing mesh installation. When all slabs are securely fixed to the walls or ceiling, the reinforcing mesh should be installed. For this, the surface of the slabs is worked out with glue, perforated corners are fixed at their corners. The reinforcing mesh is rolled with a roller to the glued surface, then another layer of glue is applied. When the wall is dry, it is primed and plastered.

# 2. Insulation of the balcony with penoplex

Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of premises. It can be fixed to the surface using bituminous mastics, polyurethane foam or dowel mushrooms. Consider the option of mounting on polyurethane foam.

So. The waterproofing is done. Polyurethane foam is applied to the insulation plate along the perimeter. It's enough. After application, we wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next slab is stacked to the first end-to-end. After two days, you can fix the slabs with additional dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in the same order as described above. Do the finishing at your discretion. You can sew up the insulation plates with plastic panels, they look very original.

Council. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential things on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

Number 3. Thermal insulation of a balcony with mineral wool: technology features

Thermal insulation of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached on top of the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

It is a well-known fact building recommendation carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to arrange the insulation material outside. Internal placement of a layer of insulation requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and correct selection materials so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the outrigger structure.

Views mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (they are unwound into a track before laying) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Important! During installation, the foil should be located on the side of the room. Inner warmth the room will bounce off the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any kind of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between the outer wall (ceiling, roof) and the frame supports. As supports, you can use wooden sticks or metal profiles, depending on which cladding will be used in the future.

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the lathing frame is constructed of wood. Wooden poles are installed with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2, while you can save a little the inner space of the balcony by installing rectangular poles, and not square section (30 × 50 cm 2, 30 × 70 cm 2).

All racks and horizontal battens are installed under the level. Anchoring of uprights to the concrete surface of the ceiling and floor is carried out with anchor bolts. Horizontal supports are attached to vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, the horizontal slats are attached at three levels: knee, hip, shoulder.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, the installation of a vapor barrier is mandatory. The cotton material itself is breathable, it easily permeates gaseous substances (air, steam).

Considering that with internal insulation, the point of condensation formation shifts into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the ingress of steam or air from their living quarters into the construction wool. For this purpose, a vapor barrier film is placed between the mineral wool and the finish.

Interior decoration

Purpose of interior decoration:

1. Close the insulation material from the living space.
2. Create an aesthetic interior wall covering for a room or a heated loggia.

Exist various materials for interior decoration of balconies (plasterboard, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed lathing frame, finishing is carried out by hanging various types of panels: plywood, MDF, lining made of wood or plastic.

Finishing clapboard is performed by wall cladding with wooden (or plastic) carriage panels, which have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and fastening density. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper imitation of a wooden covering laid on interior walls balcony (or loggia). It is characterized by less strength and stiffness.

Wooden carriage panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, have sufficient flooring rigidity. The ceiling of the loggia can be sheathed with plastic clapboard, the floor is covered with wood, as for the walls - both types of carriage covering (plastic and wood) can be used here.

It is recommended to start clapboard cladding from the corner. Each panel is checked for verticality with a level and fixed on the crate with a special fastener (clamp). You can fix the wagon panel with small studs.

After finishing the finish, the inner surface is treated with a compound that protects the wood from moisture and destruction.

Problems that have to be faced with the internal insulation of the balcony

1. When sheathing walls, ceiling and floor with insulating material, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room inevitably decreases. And this shortcoming is not the only one.

2. Condensation often occurs in many structures, which is difficult to get rid of when all construction work has already been completed. Why does excess moisture appear?

The insulation structure installed on the balcony includes the following elements:

1. outdoor fencing located outside; insulating material; warm room.

Air masses tend to get outside, and their moisture, which has passed through the insulation, settles on the outer fence in the form of condensation. The insulation gets wet and completely loses its performance characteristics.

Warm vapors, colliding with a cold enclosure, also become liquid. Excess moisture in a room causes many problems: for example, the appearance of mold or rotting of wooden structural elements. That is why you need to know how to properly insulate your balcony.

From the inside, this can be done in two ways.

Hydro-barrier

Hydro-barrier is a special design that prevents moisture condensation on the outer fence. The technology of its installation includes certain stages:

1. installation of vapor barrier;
2. finishing with facing materials.

The hydro-barrier makes it possible to use even moisture-resistant materials for insulation from the inside. Polyethylene or foil is used as insulation.

Important! In this case, all seams must be sealed with construction tape.to insulate the balcony with the best quality.

The disadvantage of this insulation method is that the walls cannot breathe.

Insulation without additional insulation

It is possible to insulate the balcony from the inside in this way only if there are materials with low vapor permeability: foam, foam or extruded polystyrene foam. The design includes:

1. fiberglass mesh, also mounted with glue; finishing.

Advice! For better fastening of the insulation, you can use plastic dowels.

No glue is required for thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene. This material is supplied to the surface to be insulated using a spray gun, foams and dries.

Innovative insulation from TechnoNICOL LOGICPIR The balcony is suitable for walls, ceilings, floors. saves space - plate thickness from 20 mm.

1. keeps heat due to the unique thermal conductivity of 0.022 W / m ° K (compare with glass wool 0.032-0.041 W / m ° K);
2. protected from moisture, rot, mold and fire (flammability group G1 according to GOST 30244-94);
3. will last for many years (the insulation retains its properties for 50 years).

Advice! When insulating a balcony from the inside with expanded polystyrene, it is better to make a layer of material about 80 mm thick. The vapor permeability of extruded polystyrene foam is lower than that of simple polystyrene, so its layer can be even smaller.

Floor insulation

Behind the insulation of the balcony walls, the floor should be insulated. If you correctly calculate the amount of insulation and the thickness of its layer, you can make the floor on the balcony at the same level as in the other rooms.

At the first stage of work, the slab is cleaned of dirt, debris and collapsed plaster. Then the floor is covered with foil and penofol. The second stage is the fastening of the crate, previously cut with a jigsaw. Insulation plates (preferably foam) are laid between its beams, and the gaps between them are filled with foam. The final stage is the installation of flooring, linoleum or parquet and skirting boards.

This design can raise the balcony floor by about 150 mm.

Electrically heated floor

You can also insulate the floor using modern technologies. Then the balcony will not differ from other rooms in almost anything. Installing heat tracing is a relatively simple process, but energy costs increase significantly.

A special electric cable is installed to heat the balcony floor from the inside.

Important! Under no circumstances should moisture get into the cable.

Insulating construction components:

Ceiling insulation

Advice! If the neighbors living on the floor above have already insulated their balcony, there is no need to insulate the ceiling.

Most optimal material for ceiling insulation - polystyrene. It weighs very little, which is very important in this case. Its main layer is complemented by foil, which acts as a vapor barrier and heat reflector. Foil polystyrene foam is fixed with polyurethane foam glue and disc dowels. All seams are sealed with a special metal tape.

Polyfoam is attached to aluminum hangers using the same combined method.

Important! Insulation sheets should adhere to each other as tightly as possible.

All slots are filled with polyurethane foam with special care, so every, even the smallest, hole can make all work absolutely useless.

You can insulate the balcony from the inside both independently and using the services of professionals. However, these construction jobs can be easy if you follow the advice and carefully understand the technology.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos and instructions

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Errors when insulating a balcony

Today's balcony in many apartments turns into a full-fledged room, a functional space. This is especially true for small apartments, whose residents appreciate every centimeter. If the balcony is insulated, it becomes an office, a closet, a resting place, a mini greenhouse, a dining room or an extra bed. There are many options for using it. The main thing is to do quality work on its insulation. Only in this case it will be warm and comfortable on the balcony.

Features and Benefits

In the warm season, the whole family can rest on the balcony, but when autumn comes, this room becomes useless. If you insulate it, the situation will change. The plus is that all the planned work is easy to do on your own. Additionally, a warm room is a space in which it is easy to create a small work area or sitting area. In addition, the presence of a warm balcony will automatically make the apartment cozier and warmer. You can attach a living room or kitchen to it, depending on its location. This will create extra space.

Before you start with insulation or glazing, you need to get expert advice. He will definitely tell you what kind of load a warm balcony can withstand, whether it is worth strengthening it. If the base is a strong concrete slab, the question of reinforcement does not arise. But the metal parapet must be reinforced with foam blocks or lightweight bricks made of ceramic material. The same should be done in the case of a fragile fastening of a reinforced concrete base.

Double-glazed windows in wooden frames can be used for insulation. They are environmentally friendly, allow windows to "breathe", but are expensive. Aluminum windows insulated with polyamide inlays increase the thermal insulation of the room. The most optimal would be the equipment of PVC windows with double glazing, which reliably retain heat.

Such windows are cheaper than wooden ones, but at the same time their thermal insulation is not inferior to aluminum ones.

What materials are better to choose

For finishing balconies or loggias today there are many varieties of finishing materials, with the help of which they give even the smallest room an original and attractive look. The main thing is to make the right choice of material for finishing. For insulation, experts recommend using cork, plastic panels, lining with a wooden or plastic base, drywall, plaster, MDF panels, decorative rock, aluminum profile, penoplex, expanded polystyrene, penofol.

Mineral wool, styrofoam finishing - perfect solution for self-insulation rooms.

In the case of a non-insulated balcony, it is better to give preference to artificial stone, plastic frost-resistant lining, cork panels or tiles. The following materials are most often used for finishing:

Drywall

• This material differs in that it is based on no toxic substances, it is easy to process and is combined with other finishing materials in design. Drywall can be plastered, painted, wallpapered, sheathed with panels and clapboard. With the help of such a versatile material, it is enough to simply turn a balcony into a full-fledged living room.

PVC panels

• A practical solution, but it is better not to use this material if the constant temperature on the balcony is below five degrees. This problem can be solved with the help of frost-resistant panels, developed using new technologies. This material is not afraid of moisture, but it is able to quickly lose color from direct sunlight. This point should be taken into account if the room is located on the south side. Advantages: low cost, quick and easy installation with glue.

Cork panels

• They create coziness that cannot be organized using other finishing materials. Cork panels are pressed bark of cork oak. Cork panels are easy to install and are suitable for any type of balcony, regardless of the room temperature. The cork panel does not absorb foreign odors, including the smell of tobacco. Lack of material - high price. For insulation, inexpensive penoplex is also used; mineral wool is also perfect.

How to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step instructions

A balcony in a city apartment is a special space. This piece of the house, brought out under the open sky, can become an office, a greenhouse or a resting corner, you just have to glaze and isolate it.

Do-it-yourself balcony insulation will save a lot of money. Sheathing in panel house, in "Khrushchev" is done taking into account the characteristics of the apartment and building.

• Step 1... To begin with, the old frames are dismantled, the surface is prepared and things are taken out. Insulation from the inside is an important stage in the entire process.

• Step 2... At the second stage, it is necessary to glaze the balcony. The best option there will be plastic PVC windows. Many people prefer to keep the old wooden frames. However, remember that even if wooden structures in good condition, they will not be able to organize the same heat saving. There are cracks in the tree, so it makes no sense to engage in insulation in this situation.

• Step 3... After the plastic windows are installed, you can begin to warm the floor. Be prepared for the floor to get higher. Consider this if the ceiling is low.

• Step 4... Wall cladding is carried out after the installation of windows and floor insulation. The walls on the balcony are side walls, except for the main one. At the final stage of insulation, finishing works are carried out. The choice of materials depends on the budget. During the finishing process, window slopesopening onto a balcony.

Required tools and materials

• In order to insulate a balcony or loggia, you will need the following tools: a hacksaw for metal or a clerical knife; roulette; level; pencil, marker or any other writing instrument; glue application tool - brush, spatula, and so on; other instruments. From the materials you need glue and the insulation itself. In addition, you will need a vapor barrier film and a windproof membrane.

A frame device is also required. In this case, you will need wooden beams, as well as nails to secure them. You may also need special fasteners - nails with very wide heads. They are used when polystyrene is not attached with glue.

Insulation inside

• High quality thermal insulation combined with double glazing transforms the balcony into a living space. It is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. Insulation materials must be durable, lightweight, safe for humans. Due to precipitation and condensation, the walls of the balcony can become damp and moldy, which means that a hydro and vapor barrier is needed.

Polystyrene foam meets these requirements as much as possible: traditional foam and Penoplex thermal insulation boards. The first is very lightweight, compressive strength, and waterproof. Penoplex is insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam. Its strength and durability surpasses conventional foam, and its shape makes it easy to grip and provides perfect insulation. Balcony cladding with slabs can be performed both inside and outside.

Insulation of a closed balcony begins with surface preparation. It is necessary to carefully cover the gaps and joints between the floor, walls and parapet with polyurethane foam without toluene in the composition. Metal constructions need to be cleaned from rust, covered oil paint and treat with a building antiseptic.

Before laying the insulation, they put windows and doors. Window sills and slopes are mounted at the last stage of work. The balcony glazing depends on the parapet. If this is just a metal crate, it needs to be built up with ceramic (lightweight) bricks or foam blocks. The thickness should not exceed ten centimeters. To protect the foam blocks, at the finishing stage, they are covered with corrugated board.

Floor

On a reinforced concrete parapet, you can install window constructions immediately, using various assembly and sealing compounds. Reinforced-plastic windows have excellent characteristics, with skillful installation, they reliably protect the balcony and look aesthetically pleasing. When choosing a model, it is worth stopping at swing frames with double glazing.

Floor

• In order to insulate the floor, you can resort to two different directions at once: making it warm or constantly heating it. We are talking about installing a floor heating system, for example, an electric one. Installing a water system on a balcony is very inconvenient and almost impossible, but the installation of an electrical or film system is easy to carry out.

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It all starts with preparation. A waterproofing film is laid on the floor under the tiles, which protects the floor from moisture outside. Further the crate is arranged. Instead of a lag, a bar is used, five centimeters thick. If you do not want to raise the floor too much in relation to the old coating, it is better to use a beam of low height. A square bar of 50 × 50 mm is perfect. The beams are laid every 40-60 cm.

To prevent moisture from entering the insulation from the inside, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is laid on top of the beams and attached to them with a construction stapler. For internal fastening, a fastening step of 50 cm is sufficient so as not to create unnecessary holes in the film. Polystyrene must be protected from moisture on all sides. Therefore, it is better to overlap the film on the walls. All gaps between the beams and walls should be sealed with the same insulation material or polyurethane foam.

Walls

• Many do not insulate the walls, believing that from the side of the house the cold does not come to the balcony. In many ways it is, but the work must be done. The walls themselves are not sources of cold, but the joints between them and the side walls of the balcony can be. For this reason, the whole work can only consist in installing foam foam, which is vapor-tight and thin. It will protect the walls from icing and the penetration of condensate into the balcony.

• Ceiling. If we are talking about a private house, then it is best to make a special roof structure. It is recommended to make a pitched roof, the slope of which is directed away from the house. The roof is made of rafters and lathing. A waterproofing film is attached on top of it. Attached to the film roofing materialand waterproofing on top of a double-sided vapor barrier film with the absorbent side inward. From below the rafters are hemmed with a vapor-permeable windproof membrane.

The floor slab, that is, the horizontal part, must have several layers at once: insulation; vapor barrier layer; load-bearing beams from interior decoration... The device begins with the installation of the frame, namely rafter system... Next, a vapor barrier double-sided membrane is attached to it in this way. Then they arrange the crate and lay a waterproofing layer. You can use a classic roofing material or special PVC films.

• Insulation outside. In order to insulate the balcony from the outside on your own, skills are required. It is not easy to do quality work on your own, taking into account the characteristics of the building. Finishing outside means saving up to thirty percent on heating. Remember that outdoor work is fraught with some difficulties: if the balcony is located above the second floor, then industrial climbers will have to be involved in the work.

Before starting the insulation, obtain the consent of the officials from the architecture department. Appearance a balcony can ruin the overall picture, but if you finish in the same style as the entire building, then you can get permission. External insulation has a number of advantages:

• the reinforced concrete slab remains warm, moist air from the room freely passes through it and is released into the atmosphere;
• saving useful space;
• you can install a layer of thermal insulation of any thickness, this will not affect the inner space of the balcony.

The materials can be used the same as for internal works... Preference is given to sprayed thermal insulation as the lightest and most efficient. Experts recommend using foam or expanded polystyrene. Mineral wool is sensitive to moisture ingress, so its installation requires special care and accuracy.

An independent procedure for insulating a balcony is difficult. All stages must be performed at a high level, otherwise the room will not be completely isolated. Glass, panoramic, stained glass balcony is an excellent solution for small space... Designers advise connecting it to the expansion room. A glazed balcony connected to the kitchen on the top floor is a luxurious solution.

Owners of city apartments often wonder how to insulate a balcony inside with their own hands. This procedure is really simple. However, it is still necessary to observe the established technologies during its implementation. First of all, of course, you will need to decide on how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands. From the variety of the selected material and will be in to a greater extent the method of covering the parapet, walls and ceiling depends.

Styrofoam or mineral wool?

These two materials for the insulation of balconies and loggias are chosen most often. Expanded polystyrene costs a little more than mineral wool. However, it is also the best answer to the question of how to insulate the balcony inside. The fact is that when sheathing the loggia from the side of residential premises, the so-called is inside the insulating "pie". Therefore, it is much better to use a moisture-resistant material for insulation. Inexpensive mineral wool, unfortunately, does not differ in such properties. She picks up moisture very quickly. You can, of course, use it. However, in this case, you will have to pay maximum attention to waterproofing. So the best answer to the question of how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands is still expanded polystyrene.

Material characteristics

When choosing sheets for balcony insulation, you should pay attention to the following factors:

• density,

Expanded polystyrene sheets produced by modern manufacturers have standard sizes: 2x1, 0.5x1 or 1x1. Those who have wondered how to sheathe the balcony from the inside should think about purchasing smaller sheets. Too large slabs to be mounted in the limited space of the loggia will be very inconvenient. For a balcony, the 0.5x1 option or, in extreme cases, 1x1 is best suited.

As for the thickness, you can buy absolutely any expanded polystyrene for the balcony. The only thing that should be guided in this case is such an indicator as the area of \u200b\u200bthe loggia. After assembling the insulating cake, there should be enough left on the balcony for a comfortable pastime free space... Most often, the owners of loggias of typical Soviet-built houses choose polystyrene foam with a thickness of 40-50 mm.

The density of this type of insulation can be found by looking at the marking. The best answer to the question of how to sheathe the balcony from the inside is to use 15-25 grade expanded polystyrene. The higher the numbers, the lower the thermal conductivity of the material, and the more fragile it is. If the expanded polystyrene is supposed to be covered with decorative plaster or wallpaper in the future, it is worth buying thicker plates. If lining or panels will be used as the quality, you can take loose sheets that retain heat well.

Where to begin?

So, how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands, you now know. Next, let's figure out how to do it right. Before proceeding with the installation of the insulating "pie", it is necessary to carefully prepare the loggia itself. First of all, they dismantle the wooden floors. Then they begin to repair the parapet. If there are through slots in it, they must be sealed with a sealant. Chips close up cement mortar or moisture resistant putty. The walls, floor and ceiling are prepared in the same way.

Loggia waterproofing

Having asked the question of how to properly insulate the balcony with their own hands inside, the owners of the apartment must first of all make sure that this small room is always dry. Waterproofing when performing this operation is considered mandatory (especially when using mineral wool as insulation). In its absence:

the service life of the balcony finish will be reduced;

all metal structures will quickly rust;

due to the increased humidity, various kinds of fungi will begin to develop, as a result of which an unpleasant odor will appear on the loggia.

Sometimes, on balconies uninsulated in this way, even support structures begin to collapse, which, of course, is very dangerous.

The easiest way is to waterproof the balcony using bitumen-polymer mastic. It is heated to a liquid state, the floor is poured over it and the parapet is coated in 2-3 layers. Sometimes roll materials are also used to waterproof the balcony.

What glue is needed

Those who wondered how to insulate a balcony inside with polystyrene or polystyrene foam should, among other things, take care of using suitable glue to fix the sheets. It is allowed to mount this material directly on the mastic (on polymer-bitumen - immediately, on bitumen - after complete drying). In this case, you should use a special glue. It's called Bitumast.

What else do you have to buy

Thus, you now know how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands. A photo of expanded polystyrene sheets - the most suitable material for this purpose - can be seen on the page. However, in addition to them and glue, to insulate the balcony, you will also need to prepare:

reinforcing mesh,

dowels-fungi,

polyurethane foam (no toluene),

decorative plaster or wallpaper.

Pasting technology

So, next, let's see how to insulate the loggia from the inside. Installation of sheets should start from the corner. This rule is true both when pasting a parapet, and walls or ceilings. Actually, the installation operation itself is performed as follows:

Expanded polystyrene sheets are roughened. To do this, they are passed with a special needle roller. Treated in this way, they will hold up much better.

A support rail is attached to the bottom of the parapet.

The adhesive solution is evenly applied to the surface of the wall, ceiling or parapet.

Press the polystyrene foam tightly to the surface.

The material for insulating the balcony from the inside should be mounted in such a way that the joints between the sheets have a T-shape (as when laying bricks). After the plate is glued, it should be additionally secured with mushroom dowels (5 per sheet). Holes for them can be drilled directly through the sheets. At the final stage, the joints are processed. In this case, construction foam is used.

Reinforcing mesh gluing

Expanded polystyrene is an excellent answer to the question of what is the best way to insulate a balcony inside. However, decorative plaster on this material does not hold very well. To remedy the situation, use a special reinforcing mesh. Mount it as follows:

Previously, the expanded polystyrene surface of the ceiling, parapet and walls is completely coated with glue (for foam).

On top of it, another layer of glue is applied. Its thickness should be such that the mesh joints do not protrude above the surface plane.

Fine finishing

So, we figured out how to insulate a balcony with our own hands. Step by step photo this process is presented above. As you can see, this procedure is relatively simple. At the final stage, the dried adhesive surface is passed with a special float to roughen it. Next, they start applying decorative plaster. You can also wallpaper the balcony.

Second way

The loggia insulation technique discussed above is suitable when using dense polystyrene foam. And if the owners decided to buy mineral wool as an insulator? How to insulate a balcony with your own hands? A step-by-step (photo of the process is presented below) guidance for performing work in this case will look like this:

A frame made of wooden beams is attached to the parapet, walls, floor and ceiling. The step between its elements should be equal to the width of the plates of the selected insulation. The timber can be fixed to the concrete parapet with self-tapping screws. For balconies with a metal fence, an independent paving structure is assembled.

Further, the insulation itself is inserted between the elements of the frame. The material is attached to the concrete parapet with "fungi" (expanded polystyrene can be additionally glued). If the fence is metal, it is better to use cotton wool and insert it into a spat. If expanded polystyrene is chosen for insulation, you can, for example, fix plywood on the back of the frame and glue the material to it.

It is stretched over the insulation. It is better to fasten it with thin rails (two on each side of the timber).

the balcony is trimmed with clapboard, plastic panels, drywall or plywood. Attach the material to the frame bars.

How to insulate the floor

The base of the balcony is insulated last. The floor is pre-waterproofed, and then logs are installed on it. The answer to the question of what to insulate inside is simple. Most often, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool is placed between the bars. You can also use expanded clay. A vapor barrier is attached on top of the insulation, and then a floor or edged board is stuffed. Then the floor is covered with linoleum or any other suitable material.

Heated balcony

Whatever the answer to the question of how to insulate the balcony inside, the owners of the house choose for themselves, subject to the installation technology, in the future it will be possible to have a good time here, including in winter. However, on very cold days, even on an isolated loggia, additional heating may be required. It is strictly forbidden to carry out central heating by regulations. Therefore, the best solution would be to set the usual here electric heater... It should be placed against the wall separating the balcony and the apartment. It is not recommended to install heating devices near the parapet. The fact is that in this case, due to the rising warm air on the balcony, the glass will begin to fog up strongly.

You can also arrange on the loggia

Warm floor

This work is done as follows:

Heat-insulating material is laid on the floor.

Installed metal

The heating cable is being laid.

A thermostat is hung on the wall.

Flooded concrete screed 30-40 mm thick.

The floor covering is laid.

Well, we hope we have quite extensively answered the question of how to insulate the balcony inside with our own hands and how to do it correctly. The most important thing when assembling a "pie" is not to violate the established technology. In this case, the balcony will turn out to be cozy and warm.

A balcony or loggia is an unheated room in an apartment. Therefore, they are a source of heat loss from an apartment or house. Even a well-glazed balcony lets in a significant amount of heat.

To avoid this, the balcony or loggia is insulated from the inside. It should be noted that there are various approaches to the insulation of this type of room.

The type and method of insulation of the balcony and loggia depends on:

• intended purpose:

• the balcony is not intended for storage, it is insulated in order to reduce heat loss from the room. In this case, the work is carried out according to a scheme similar to external heating. That is, only one side of it is insulated, adjacent to the wall of the room;

• the balcony is for storage. Insulated along the perimeter of all surfaces. Since it shouldn't be here high temperature, then the requirements for thermal insulation materials are not particularly high;

• a balcony that is an extension of a living room or serves as an office, library, gym, etc. In this case, heat loss through windows and all surfaces is eliminated. And as the materials used, heat insulators with high density and considerable thickness. Particular attention is paid to the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material and the rules for its installation.

• the budget for insulation. Determines the type of insulation, and the area of \u200b\u200binsulation, and further finishing. It also determines whether to entrust the work to professionals or to carry out the insulation of the balcony with your own hands;

• seasons. Any kind of insulation can withstand low temperatures. But solutions, adhesives and foam must be used taking into account the ambient temperature. As a rule, "winter varieties" are more expensive. And the duration of work in winter is much longer;

Consider ways to insulate a balcony using various heaters and give some important practical advicehow to make the insulation of the loggia more effective. We will proceed from the fact that it is necessary to insulate the balcony with high quality and inexpensively on all surfaces inside - walls, ceiling and floor.

Insulation requirement:

1. light weight. In order not to make the balcony heavier, which is much lower in strength than the loggia;
2. small volume. In order not to occupy the useful living space of a balcony or loggia;
3. low cost;
4. security. Fire and environmental;
5. the ability to do the work with your own hands.

Insulation for the balcony and loggia - types and properties

If you have not yet decided what is the best way to insulate a balcony or loggia from the inside, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with popular thermal insulation materials. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, which lie in characteristics, cost and installation methods.

Expanded polystyrene

Strong, dense material that does not support combustion well. Resistant to moisture, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Styrofoam

Dense insulation. It has the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, light weight, high strength and low cost.

Basalt and mineral wool

Soft insulation. Works due to its structure. Fibers arranged in a chaotic manner contain air, which does not allow heat to penetrate through the cotton wool. Working with cotton wool, you need to create an additional frame.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Sprayed insulation. The material is good because it does not allow moisture to pass through, makes it possible to adjust the thickness of the insulation and allows you to get a coating without seams. And this, in turn, excludes the appearance of cold bridges.

Penofol

Multilayer material. The polystyrene backing traps heat, while the aluminum screen, which is like a thermal mirror, allows the heat to be reflected back into the home. It can be used on its own or in combination with other insulation materials.

Expanded clay

Bulk insulation. It has a porous structure, due to which it retains heat well. Tried on for floor insulation.

Using these materials for insulating a balcony and a loggia, you can additionally provide good sound insulation (provided that it is glazed with plastic windows).

A mandatory accompanying attribute when insulating from the inside with most of the named materials is a film of a vapor barrier and a hybrid barrier or a superdiffusion membrane. It is designed to protect the insulation, especially soft from getting wet and condensation.

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How to insulate a balcony with your own hands - step by step instructions

• Vacation of the premises. It is impossible to do a good job if you have to constantly move things from place to place.

• Sealing cracks. We assume that high-quality double-glazed windows are installed on the windows. In any case, there are gaps between the balcony and the wall, at the junction of the ceiling and floor. So they need to be sealed with foam, sealants or solutions. Significant slots are sealed with pieces of foam.

• Balcony / loggia waterproofing. It is necessary so that water does not get inside. Moreover, it can enter through micropores in concrete. For this purpose, a deep penetrating primer can be used.

• In the case of using cotton wool, it is necessary to install a waterproofing film. It is attached with an overlap and secured with tape.

• Installation of insulation. Two methods can be distinguished here:

• Wireframe method. In this case, you must first equip the frame from wood planks treated with an antiseptic or galvanized profiles. Boards are more popular because they are cheaper and allow you to adjust the thickness of the frame. The most commonly used timber is 50x50. Insulation is introduced into the cells formed.

• Frameless method. More preferable, but only suitable for rigid insulation. This is due to the fact that the material of the frame with the frame method remains not covered with insulation. That is, wood or metal serve as cold bridges and conduct heat well. Therefore, in the overwhelming majority of cases, rigid heaters are mounted without arranging the frame.

• Laying foam foam, vapor barrier film or superdiffusion membrane.

• Floor insulation is in progress.

• The final stage is the decorative finishing of the balcony or plasterboard.

Insulation of the balcony and loggia with mineral wool

The cotton wool is laid so that it fits snugly to the frame elements, but is not "tamped", i.e. it does not need to be additionally sealed. From this, the structure of the mineral wool will change and some of the air will evaporate. This will reduce the insulation properties of the cotton wool. In order for the cotton wool to stay securely on the wall, and especially on the ceiling, you need to additionally fix it with the use of wire or umbrellas (dowels with a wide head).

Mineral wool fixed with "umbrellas"

Sometimes cotton wool is wound behind the frame, as shown in the figure. Then the elements of the frame are held by the cotton wool. However, professionals do not recommend using this approach for low-density cotton wool (less than 50 kg / cubic meter), since cotton held in only a few places will settle over time, opening part of the wall for the movement of cold air.

Cotton wool is covered with a vapor barrier film. Then the counter-lattice is stuffed. It allows you to protect the cotton wool from touching finishing material and avoid the appearance of a dew point in this place.

In more detail, the stages of installing cotton wool are presented in the diagram.

1. Floor base
2. Floor lags
3. Frame
4. Basalt wool
5. Vapor barrier film
6. Counter grill
7. Finishing material

Thermal insulation of the balcony with foam and polystyrene foam

Hard insulation is also laid in the frame sections and fixed to foam or special glue. The insulation does not fit close to the frame, but with a gap of 5-10 mm. The gap is subsequently blown out with foam, and the foam sheet is additionally attached with a plastic dowel - an umbrella (fungus).

Fastening foam with a frame method

Fastening of expanded polystyrene by frame method

The foam sheets are tightly pressed against each other, and the joints are blown out with foam.

Expanded polystyrene sheets are joined according to the "groove-comb" principle.

The sputtering method stands out in this group. Thermal insulation material such as polyurethane foam is applied to the wall by spraying. The material, relatively new on the market, quickly gains its fans among professionals and amateurs. Since it allows you to carry out insulation without additional preparation of the base. The high speed of work performance also speaks in favor of the PPU - less than one day. Among the disadvantages are the high cost and the inability to perform the work independently without special equipment.

• At first, reliable protection insulation from moisture;

• Secondly, additional internal insulation;

• Third, the foil reflects 90% of the heat back. This is very important for a balcony or loggia, which, by law, cannot have their own heating sources.

We will learn how to properly insulate a loggia or balcony, decide on the method and materials, and talk about laying electrical wiring.

Apartments with additional space, which is a loggia or balcony room, have a greater advantage in the eyes of apartment owners without these premises. But how are these very loggias and balconies used? In summer, you can put a light table and armchairs there, breathe in the fresh air, or just pull on the clothesline and dry the washed things.

How to insulate a loggia or balcony

• Loggia glazing
• Warming the floor of the loggia
• Electrician on the loggia

With the onset of the first cold weather, balconies and loggias become a place for storing various unnecessary belongings, with the first frosts they allow you to do without a refrigerator and store perishable food without problems. But square meters living space is expensive today - why do we forget about "ownerless" premises that can simply be converted into living rooms using modern insulating materials? Without delaying until "tomorrow" we start to insulate the loggia and the balcony - the guide in this article.

Questions that need to be resolved before starting work on the insulation of the loggia

First of all, you need to decide on the purpose of the future insulated room, whether it will be a study, a nursery, or, for example, a room for sports training. To a large extent, this choice will depend on the size of the loggia, to a greater extent on its width - if it is less than one and a half meters, then it will be too narrow for a study. The purpose of using the insulated loggia in the future depends on the layout of the wiring, positions and number of electrical outlets, lighting devices.

Important: completely abandon the idea of \u200b\u200bcombining a loggia and an adjacent room by removing part of the wall between them!

This is the outer wall of the building, which means it is load-bearing, no additional expansion of the opening in it, except, possibly, removing the frame and door frame (if the loggia is behind the kitchen) it is absolutely impossible to produce! News channels periodically report the partial destruction of entire entrances in multi-storey residential buildings due to the fact that the owner of one of the apartments intended to increase living space by demolishing part of the load-bearing wall - do not even think about it!

The reason why the loggias are seriously freezing in winter is due to the large glazing area of \u200b\u200bthis room - after all, it was designed by architects for a clothes dryer, and not for a living room. It would seem that what is difficult here - to lay part of the window opening brickwork or facade plasterboard with a layer of insulation between its panels and the problem is solved.

But not everything is so simple - from the point of view of official government agencies, reducing the area of \u200b\u200bthe loggia's glazing is an interference with the architectural appearance of the building, which means it is not allowed. Glazing of the balcony is another matter, it is allowed, since it reduces the risk of fire from an accidental cigarette butt from the upper floors. Last years supervisory state bodies do not react in any way to these very interventions in the "architectural appearance", but this does not mean that they will not pay attention further - it is better not to make serious changes in the existing glazing of the loggia.

Heat loss through the glazing of the loggia can be significantly reduced by installing modern double-glazed windows and carefully sealing the joints between new window framesas well as frames and adjacent walls.

It is necessary to think over the heating of the loggia - if, after insulation, this room will be used as a full-fledged room in which a person has been present for a long time, then you cannot do without it. The idea of \u200b\u200binstalling a heating battery on the loggia, powered by central system, but this is prohibited by municipal law.

The reason for the ban is as follows - when designing the building and its heating system, the loggias were not taken into account, therefore, the installation of a heating battery in these rooms will lead to a lack of temperature in the system for heating other apartments. As you can see, this is not a matter of stealing heat at all, and your attempts to include the area of \u200b\u200bthe loggia in the total heated area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment are guaranteed to be refused in all instances.

Installation of a water radiator on a loggia is allowed only if your apartment has an individual heating system, that is, it is heated from a boiler installed in it. There remains only the option of heating the loggia with electric heaters - infrared, convection, or using an electric warm floor.

Preparation of a loggia (balcony) for insulation

At this stage, the loggia room is completely freed of everything that is folded in it - after cleaning it should become completely empty. The existing single-glazed timber frames must then be removed as they will need to be replaced with modern ones. If the balcony has a metal fence, it must be cut off (a grinder is required), instead of the old parapet, lay out a new one, made of light ceramic bricks or foam blocks.

The new parapet can be brought out a little higher than the old railing, but not excessively - change the "architectural appearance". Completely remove the floor covering of the loggia, if it is made with tiles, you can leave it by cutting out part of the tile for the output of the brick parapet.

Measure the dimensions of the free opening above the parapet, and you need to remove them using a building level - at the same heights on opposite sides, there may be a serious horizontal difference, that is, opposite points can be at different heights from the horizontal floor level. Measure the angles and take measurements from each of the walls, ceiling and floor, draw up a drawing with these dimensions - it will come in handy.

Loggia glazing

Depending on the purposes of insulation and temperatures of the cold season, new frames can be with one glass or with double-glazed windows of two or three glasses with a heat-reflecting film inside. The frames themselves can be aluminum, wooden or plastic reinforced from the inside with a galvanized metal profile.

Measurements and recommendations for the glazing of the loggia will be given to you by the measurer of the opening for the glazing, he will also take all measurements - take into account at least one window in the total glazing area for ventilating the insulated loggia in the future.

Warn the measurer that you need free areas vertically between the outer frames and the wall about 70 mm wide on each side, that is, the frames on the sides of the glazed gap should not be located close to the walls.

The subsequent insulation of the walls of the loggia will require attaching a layer of insulation to them, metal profile or a wooden beam and subsequent finishing cladding, so the walls will move slightly inside the loggia - if you install double-glazed windows close to the walls, the side frames of the frames will be "recessed" into the wall to be insulated. In the free areas between the frames and the wall, a timber will be installed and two layers of thermal insulation (before and after the timber) will be laid.

In the process of installing new glazing, ask the performers to install a cover strip on the outside - a special plastic tape, its width can be from 30 to 70 mm. And one more thing - in spite of the adhesive layer on the back side of the cover strip, it should be fixed to the frame with short self-tapping screws with a pitch of 500 mm, since over time the glue will dry out and the cover strip will certainly fall behind.

Warming the floor of the loggia

There are two main ways to do this: lay the insulation directly on the floor, lay the base covering on top; put logs, on top of them insulation and a rough base of the floor, on top - the main coating. If it is possible to simplify the task and not to raise the floor on wooden logs - we lay only roofing material, glue its joints with a sealing tape and, if the floor height permits to the threshold of the loggia door, we lay the base of the floor from chipboard or OSB boards, impregnated with linseed oil and further drying. In this case, we will not lay the insulation, since there is no place for it.

As a heat and vapor barrier in the process of insulating a loggia or balcony, Penofol or Penoplex are most often used, the first insulation consists of foamed polyethylene, the second - of extruded polystyrene foam. Possessing good thermal insulation characteristics, easy to use and practically waste-free, both of these materials are not recommended for use in residential premises.

The reasons are as follows: despite the declared flammability classes, for which these heaters do not burn and do not support combustion, their manufacturers are bending their souls - Penofol and Penoplex smolder perfectly, emitting a significant amount of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. It is better to secure the residents of the apartment and the whole house as much as possible from such consequences of fire, using only a mineral wool-based insulation.

So, for the flooring of the insulated floor on the loggia, we need: roofing material, which is enough to cover the floor area of \u200b\u200bthe loggia with a small overlap on the walls; a roll of self-adhesive tape-sealant such as "Guerlain"; wooden beam 50 mm wide for setting logs; rolled mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm; flooring for the base of the floor (chipboard sheets, OSB 20 mm thick); finished covered floors (linoleum, laminate).

The floor surface is cleared of debris and dust, roofing material is laid on top of it in one layer. The joints between the sheets of roofing material, between the roofing material and the adjacent wall are covered with a self-adhesive sealant tape. On top of the roofing material, logs are installed with a step of 500 mm, the timber for them is selected with the height that will allow the plane of the new floor to be brought to the level of the door threshold. When determining the height of the timber for the logs, consider: the thickness of the roofing material (usually 5 mm), the thickness of the slabs under the base of the floor, the thickness of the finishing floor covering.

The logs are set at the building level, interconnected by bars of a smaller thickness. At this stage, you should not fasten the logs with high quality - their structure will have to be disassembled for processing from decay. To obtain a perfectly horizontal floor surface, you will need to substitute small support boards under the logs; they should not be fixed to the floor, since the roofing material will be damaged.

In the design of some balconies, the slabs that form the floor slope towards the side of the fence to remove rainwater - differences of up to 90 mm horizontally between the inside and outside of the floor slab are possible. Consider this when setting lags.

After bringing the upper plane formed by the lags to a horizontal level, it is necessary to disassemble the entire structure and treat the bar with oxol linseed oil to protect it from decay. After waiting for the drying oil layer applied with a paint brush to completely dry, we collect the logs again, this time it is necessary to fasten them together with the greatest care. Plates selected for the base of the floor also need to be coated with a layer of drying oil on both sides and on all ends.

After finishing the treatment with linseed oil, drying and setting the lags, we proceed to laying the mineral wool insulation, for which it needs to be cut into blocks according to the size of the compartments between the installed lags. Mineral wool is easily cut with an ordinary carpentry saw; in the process of working with it, you need to put on a bandage or a respirator - small particles of mineral wool will break off and rise into the air when cutting and laying.

At the next stage after the installation of the insulation, the base plates are installed on the logs, attached to them with self-tapping screws for wood. Further work on flooring at this stage is terminated - first, it is necessary to complete the insulation and finishing work of the ceiling and walls. The surface of the rough base of the floor for the time of work with the ceiling and walls is covered with two layers of PVC film, fixed along the contour with masking tape.

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - the initial stage

Examine the surfaces of the ceiling and walls for cracks and falling away plaster, tiles, tile, embroider all fragile seams, then fill them with polyurethane foam, cover them with sealant tape.

Hand the queue - the installation of a wooden beam with a section of 40x50 mm (pre-treated with linseed oil) on the walls and ceiling. The beam is exposed across the walls and ceiling with a step of 500 mm, the beginning of the installation is at the junction of the planes of the ceiling and walls, that is, at the mating points, the beam is attached both to the ceiling and to the wall, close to each other. Self-tapping screws for concrete with a pitch of 300 mm are used to fasten the timber.

At this, work on the walls and ceiling is temporarily stopped - then it is the turn of the electrician.

Electrician on the loggia

As a rule, the old electrical wiring of the loggia is represented by an aluminum wire 2x1.5 in a common braid, designed for a simple lamp in one 100 W lamp. For a full-fledged living space, such wiring is not suitable at all - we will pull a new one.

First, you need to find out where the wiring box is located in the room closest to the loggia - this issue should be clarified by the electrician of the local housing office or you should get a wiring diagram in your apartment in this office. If for some reason you do not want to contact the housing office, then you can stretch new wiring from the nearest electrical outlet to the loggia, piercing a channel from it to the wall between the loggia and the room, then drill a hole through this wall. Detailed description this process, see our article.

For wiring to the loggia, you can use an aluminum cable, for example, APPV 2x2.5 or 3x2.5, if grounding is assumed (in residential buildings, most often there is no grounding). You can use a copper cable VVG 2x1.5 - it will be better. The electrical cable must be laid in a PVC corrugated hose, designed to completely prevent ignition from short circuit.

Accordingly, the channel for laying the cable must have sufficient width and depth to accommodate the corrugated hose (a corrugated hose with a diameter of 16 mm is suitable for one cable). In turn, the drilled hole in the wall to the loggia should contain a metal tube through which, according to the rules for performing electrical wiring, the cable is passed to the loggia.

At the exit from the hole into the room of the loggia, the cable is again threaded into the corrugated hose and inserted into the tuso-wiring box for the indoor installation - the place for it is determined and prepared in advance, for its fastening it is necessary to install a wooden mortgage (a plank of sufficient size), fix it to the wooden crate.

It is most convenient to put the soldering box on the wall separating the loggia from the living room adjacent to it, 250 mm from the existing ceiling (without insulation and decoration). A corrugated hose with an electric cable inside is threaded between the wall and the bar attached to it, if necessary, holes are drilled a little more than the diameter of the corrugated hose in the places where the bar and the wall fit. Holes are drilled in the embedded plates for the output of the electrical cable.

Decide on the places of installation of electrical outlets and switches, the place of installation of the lamp (lamps), the heater, hung on the wall - at each point of installation of electrical installation products and electrical appliances fixed to the wall, you need to install mortgages to which these electrical appliances will be attached in turn.

The cable in the places of installation of wiring accessories and in the junction boxes is brought out to a greater length than is actually necessary - by 70 mm, which will allow in the future to replace the electrical appliance if necessary. In no case should the bare ends of the wiring go beyond the wiring accessories and junction boxes!

Important: all switches and sockets mounted on an insulated loggia should be external installation only.

Important: the connections of the electric cable supplying power from the living quarters to the loggia with the cables distributing power to sockets and switches should be made in the junction box only through the DIN rail of the terminal block - no twists!

After finishing the installation of the electrical wiring, turn off the general power supply to the apartment and connect the wiring of the loggia in the junction box of the living room or in the outlet to which the channel was pierced. Any connection (junction box or socket) is carried out via a terminal block (DIN rail).

Please note that direct contact of copper and aluminum cables during twisting will cause heating of the aluminum wire, which can lead to a fire - the mediation of a terminal block with steel contacts will exclude heating and the threat of fire. Use the terminal block in any case, even if the wiring of the apartment is completely made of copper cable. If there is no DIN rail in the old junction box in the room, purchase and connect the electrical cables through it.

So, all the work on laying the wiring to the loggia is completed - we turn on the power supply to the apartment and make sure that all wiring accessories are powered. Next, we close up the gutted channel in the living room and again begin to warm the loggia.

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - continue

We return to the insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia. The beam is already fixed, there is a queue for laying mineral wool and vapor barrier, you will need a knitting wire. We cut the mineral wool into blocks in width equal to the sections between the timber on the walls and ceiling, we start laying it from the ceiling - we need an assistant.

Of the tools, you need a construction stapler with 12 mm staples - we attach the end of the knitting wire to the edge of the bar with them, lay the insulation and hold it with a wire, bringing it out between two adjacent wooden bars in a zigzag manner, fixing each sharp corner with a staple from the stapler.

Having finished laying the insulation on the ceiling, we move on to the outer walls - the wall between the loggia and the living room can not be insulated, because it is already "warm", but the timber is attached to it in the same way as to the outer walls. Therefore, try to place the wiring accessories on this particular wall - it will not need to be insulated and covered with a vapor barrier film, which means that there will be no difficulties with placing the insulation under the insert plate for an electrical outlet or switch.

A vapor barrier film must be placed on top of the insulation, slightly pulled and fixed - it must be applied to the surface, fixed on the upper bar and further along the perimeter of the walls (ceiling). The installation of the film should be started from the plane of the ceiling. In the areas where the walls and ceiling meet, it is necessary to overlap the film fixed to the walls - by about 50 mm. In those places where wiring accessories are located, the film is slightly cut and tightened around the cable that goes to the product, i.e. the electrical cable is pushed through it.

Important: the installation of a vapor barrier film is required, otherwise the wooden beam will rot, and the mineral wool will sag under the influence of moisture penetrating in the form of steam from the room. Water vapor will be generated due to high pressure indoors and be attracted to external walls, the partial pressure outside of which is lower due to the lower temperature of the cold season.

Finishing of walls, ceiling and floor

Walls and ceilings can be finished with various coatings - plastic or MDF panels, plasterboard or clapboard. As a floor covering, you can use laminate, linoleum or save money and simply cover the base of the floor with two layers of varnish or paint.

The finishing cladding should start from the ceiling, then the flooring is carried out and only after that the wall cladding. After installing the floor covering, its entire surface should be covered with PVC foil again to protect it from damage during wall cladding. IN wall covering a hole is cut out in the installation site of the tuso-wiring box, in the places where wiring accessories are installed, only holes for the electrical cable are cut out - I remind you that all sockets and switches must be outdoor installation, i.e. protruding completely above the plane of the wall covering.

At the end of the sheathing of the external walls of the loggia, the sockets and switches are connected to the cable supplying power to them and mounted in their places.

Work on the insulation of the loggia ends with the installation of a plinth and, in the case of sheathing with plastic or MDF panels, butt battens on all edges and corners formed by wall and ceiling coverings.

If you intend to replace the existing loggia door with a new one, then its installation must be carried out before laying the logs or the base of the floor and before installing the timber on the walls. published

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