Balcony insulation (100 photos): step-by-step instructions, tips and tricks from the masters. Do-it-yourself loggia insulation, step-by-step instructions Diy balcony insulation instructions

1. Improvement will allow. Extra square meters are never superfluous. Here you can equip a living room, an office, a small fitness area or a winter garden.
2. Warm contour relieve dampness and cold. And the space itself will turn into a cozy and beautiful corner of the house.
3. it reliable protection from drafts. Often the room adjoining the loggia is colder than the rest. It will become a kind of buffer between the room and the street. Thus, a comfortable microclimate will be provided in the apartment.

Choosing a method of insulation

The location of the apartment and climatic conditions will help determine how to insulate the room. The south side and top floor contribute to overheating. On the north side, the sun is a rare visitor, so it is much cooler here.

Warming methods

• External insulation. Rigid insulation is laid outside. It is covered by a reinforcing mesh, a layer of decorative plaster. The benefit is obvious - the interior space of the room does not decrease. However, outdoor work, especially on the upper floors, is difficult and time consuming.
• Double-sided thermal insulation. The material is laid outside and inside. The solution is very time consuming and impractical. In fact, you have to do the same job twice. After all, one-sided isolation is quite effective.
• Internal insulation. The insulator fits from the inside, which slightly reduces the usable area. But the work, if desired, is performed independently.

In practice, the latter option is most often chosen, since it is the simplest and most affordable. External insulation is effective, but too difficult to implement.

In addition, in some cases, external insulation may require a decision of the local administration. This happens if the house belongs to architectural monuments. It is good for lower floors.

The choice of insulation

The choice of heaters is very wide. To navigate this variety, you need to know by what criteria to choose a coating.

Criterias of choice

• It is optimal if it is non-hygroscopic or at least with minimum values \u200b\u200bfor this indicator.
• Fire safety. Still, no one is immune from emergency situations, so I would like to ensure maximum safety.
• Durability is important in order to insulate the room as little as possible.
• Another important nuance is the safety of the material. It should not release toxic substances under any circumstances. If the manufacturer warns that this is possible when certain temperatures are exceeded, you should refuse the choice.
• Biostability makes the material a reliable barrier against the formation of microorganisms and mold, dangerous and harmful to human health.

All insulators are divided into several groups.

Rolled insulation

Loose coatings produced in the form of strips rolled into rolls. For the most part, these are various wool: slag, mineral, glass. Before installation, they are cut, assembled into a prepared frame. Due to the loose structure, they can deform over time, while losing their insulating characteristics. A significant plus is the low price.

Among roll coverings there are thin foil materials, for example, penofol. They are used as an addition to the main insulation. The metallized coating reflects heat waves, preventing them from leaving the room.

Slab

Dense plates different thicknesses... This group includes very different insulators. These are expanded polystyrene, penoplex, etc. Convenient in installation, do not deform during operation.

Sprayable

Liquid polyurethane foam applied to the base using special equipment. After it hardens, a seamless insulating layer forms. Ecowool is laid almost in the same way. Both insulators have minimal thermal conductivity and serve for decades. The main disadvantage is the need to use special styling tools.

Warming instructions in 3 steps

The progress of work is determined by the state of the room. Before insulating the loggia from the inside with your own hands, start with glazing - you need to install energy efficient ones. At this stage, it may be necessary to lay the parapet. The new glazing will look more aesthetically pleasing, but it will only be a couple of degrees warmer here compared to the street.

The fact is that this space, by definition, is non-residential. This means that the walls, floor and ceiling are not able to fully save heat. And you need to decide how to heat the room. It can be infrared or electric floor heating. Installation of a heater is possible.

Preparatory work

Start with preparation. Old flooring, walls and ceilings are removed. They clean the vacated surfaces. They are examined carefully. All cracks, chips and other flaws will have to be removed. They are carefully sealed with a putty mixture, allowed to dry completely, and cleaned.

The joints are carefully sealed. Most inexpensive thermal insulators are hygroscopic. Moisture that gets into them accumulates, gradually destroying them and the finish. Therefore, waterproofing is necessary. The joints are glued special tape or smeared with mastic. After that, all internal surfaces are treated with a hydrophobic and antifungal composition.

Insulation works are usually carried out according to the top-down principle. Let's analyze all the stages in more detail.

Ceiling insulation

The technology depends on the type of insulation, sheathing, etc. In general terms, the installation instructions look like this:

1. We collect the crate. For its manufacture, we take a bar or a metal profile. The latter is most often chosen for the subsequent installation of drywall. We fix the lamellas to the ceiling along the perimeter. Then we lay the timber in 0.6 m steps.
2. Checking the horizontal. We take a level and define a plane. It must be placed very accurately. Otherwise, the ceiling will be uneven. We correct the found shortcomings.
3. We cut the heat insulator. It can be rolled or slab. In any case, we cut off the fragments so that they are 3-4 mm larger than the crate. So the material will fit tightly, without cold bridges. It will be better held in the structure.
4. We put the insulation in place. You can additionally secure the plates with a suitable adhesive. If gaps have formed, carefully blow them out with polyurethane foam.

Then you can lay the foam foil layer with the foil side down. So it will reflect the heat waves back. After that, proceed to the installation of finishes. This is just one of possible option laying of thermal insulation.

For hard slabs, a slightly different technique is used. We glue the plates to the base with special glue. It is applied pointwise in the corners and center. After gluing, we carry out additional fixation of the plates with dowels-fungi. And then we fix penofol. We put it down with a foil layer, glue the joints with adhesive tape.

On top of the insulation, we assemble a crate made of metal profiles or beams, on which we will then fix the finishing.

Wall insulation

One of the simplest options would be to insulate the loggia with penoplex. These are moisture resistant boards with low thermal conductivity. High density and their low weight make them much easier to lay. You can choose any other suitable material... Rigid slabs are mounted without lathing, but most often they are installed. We offer step-by-step instructions for the process.

1. We lay and fix to the base thin foil-clad polyethylene foam. It will perform two functions at once: it will serve as additional waterproofing and will reflect heat rays, preventing them from leaving the room. The foil layer should "look" inward.
2. We put a crate of wooden bars or metal profiles. The lamella spacing is not 60-70 cm. We are trying to choose a multiple of the width of the insulation.
3. We cut the insulation. We cut out the details a little more than the cells of the crate so that they fit tightly into it.
4. We put insulation in the cells. Foam all the cracks that form. The reverse side of the metal profile, where there are voids, is also foamed. Otherwise, cold bridges will remain, which will lead to the formation of condensation and gradual deterioration of the insulation.
5. We lay the vapor barrier. It is a thin film with fine holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.

After that, you can proceed to decorative finishing... A wooden or metal lathing is mounted on the walls and ceiling, to which either lining is attached. As finishing you can use wallpaper or paint. In this case, you will need additional work... Sheets of moisture-resistant drywall are fixed to the crate. They are primed, putty, leveled and after that wallpaper is glued or painted.

Considering that a simple fastening of the vapor barrier is not reliable enough, dowels-"mushrooms" are additionally installed. This is the name for fasteners with wide caps. They need five for each plate: in the corners and in the center.

The insulation is closed with a vapor barrier. For this, it is recommended to use vapor barrier films or foamed polyethylene foam. It will work as steam, hydro and additional thermal insulation. The foil side is turned inside the room.

The vapor barrier is attached with polyurethane glue or double-sided tape. Seams between sheets of vapor barrier and joints with structures are glued with metallized tape. The finishing decor is mounted on top.

Floor insulation on the loggia

Any heat insulator is chosen, sometimes expanded clay is used. It is a bulk material with a relatively low weight. It takes a lot, so it is better to choose another solution for balconies in old houses. The load on the plate may be too heavy. produced between lags. This is done like this:

1. Before installing the slabs, all holes and cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam, and then the surface is leveled, for example, using self-leveling cement-sand mixtures. If there is a risk of water penetration through the "pie" of the floor, it is possible to apply a layer on the concrete slab and the lower part of the walls (300 mm high) before leveling coating waterproofing (cement-based, etc.).
2. We install the waterproofing layer. You can choose a special mastic or lay a film. In any case, we especially carefully insulate the joints of the floor and walls. The joints of the strips should be properly overlapped and fixed with tape.
3. We expose lags. We cut the wooden blocks to size, put them on the base. Be sure to level the top edge of each part. Otherwise, the floor will be uneven. We fix the logs to the base with metal corners or in any other way.
4. Cut the heat insulator, if necessary. We put it in the cells between the lags. We compact the coating so that there are no voids. The slots can be foamed.
5. We lay a layer of vapor barrier. It is a thin film with fine holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.
6. We lay the rough floor. We fasten it to the logs with self-tapping screws.

After that, you can finish the insulated room. To make everything clear, we suggest watching a video about insulating a loggia with your own hands.

It is much easier and faster to insulate the structure with polyurethane foam or ecowool. They are sprayed evenly on all surfaces. Forms a tight, seamless insulating coating. Given the size of the room, the whole process takes just a few minutes. Unfortunately, you cannot do the work yourself. Special equipment required. Therefore, such insulation may be too expensive.

Many people want to expand the living area of \u200b\u200btheir apartment and the easiest way to do this is by attaching a balcony. But in order to make it livable, it is necessary to take care of noise and waterproofing, as well as reducing the thermal conductivity of its walls. Although the process of insulating a balcony is not the easiest, it is quite possible to do it yourself. This article provides detailed instructions how to insulate the balcony yourself.

Balcony insulation materials

The choice of material is one of the most important aspects, because each material has its own individual physical and chemical properties. Such materials as polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, isolon, expanded clay, polyurethane are widespread. Next, let's look at the pros and cons of each of the materials.

Styrofoam

Foam is a foam with a porous microstructure, produced on the basis of styrene. Available in square or rectangular slabs.

• low cost;
• long service life;
• has antifungal and anti-mold properties;
• easy to install; moisture resistant;
• impervious to temperature fluctuations.

• collapses when interacting with paints and varnishes;
• very fragile.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam - made on the basis of polystyrene, by extrusion. Available in rectangular slabs.

• low cost;
• protects from both sunlight and frost;
• has high isolation from noise and liquid;
• easy to install;

• fragile;
• more expensive than foam.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is made from sedimentary, glass and volcanic natural materials. Supplied in slabs and rolls with different densities.

• good sound and heat insulation;
• lets steam through itself, preventing its accumulation in itself;
• fire resistant;
• environmentally friendly.

• inconvenient during installation, itching on contact with skin;
• emits poisonous phenol gas when heated.

Izolon

Izolon is a two-layer insulation. Externally covered with dense foil, and inside is a material resembling multilayer foam polyethylene. Most often used for wall insulation, behind batteries, because foil is an excellent reflector of heat waves.

• ease of installation;
• compactness;
• good thermal insulation.

• poor sound insulation;
• if you compare it with other heaters, then the isolon is weaker.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay - clay particles that have undergone firing and have the shape of an oval or circle.

• low cost;
• fire resistant;
• has good thermal and sound insulation characteristics;
• has antifungal and anti-mold properties;
• lightweight, so it does not weigh down the balcony.

• long drying time;
• the complexity of installation;
• increased dust formation.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a representative of the class of gas-filled plastics. It has a liquid consistency, when the subspace is filled with it, it foams and hardens.

• high sound and thermal insulation;
• high protection against steam and liquid;
• easy to install.

Cons: requires the use of special devices.

Attention! Consider the following, the balcony should not be weighed down in any case, these are violations of house construction norms.

Do-it-yourself balcony insulation

Correct installation of insulation material is a guarantee of durability and quality. In order not to forget anything and not to make a mistake anywhere, you must initially prepare a step-by-step instruction (plan) and clearly follow it point by point.

Insulation can be carried out both from the inside of the balcony and from the outside. But with self-insulation it is better to choose the option of insulating the balcony from the inside.

Preparatory work consists of:

• Checking the supporting structure;
• Dismantling trim and frame;
• Patching tile slots concrete mortar;
• Clearing the balcony from unnecessary items;
• Glazing of the balcony. Choose 2 or 3-chamber double-glazed windows for the best thermal and sound insulation;
• Carrying out electrical wiring;
• Blanking with insulation.

Floor insulation

Initially, it is more logical to start with floor insulation on the balcony.

Action plan:

Various cracks in the floor are filled with polyurethane foam. You can also use sealant or polyurethane putty.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the concrete slab. You can use ordinary polyethylene in these whole. It must be laid with an overlap, with a ledge on the wall.

We install a frame made of 50-70 mm beams. Initially, the beams are laid on the balcony slab with intervals of 40-60 cm between them. For fixing the beams, use an anchor with a length of about 110 mm. Then, on top of the screws, we fix the bars in the longitudinal direction. They will be used to level the floor.

Further, in the resulting cavities in the frame, insulation material... And in the end, the finishing surface is mounted on top using self-tapping screws. When fixing the finishing layer, it is necessary to leave small gaps at the junction with the walls to prevent squeaks during operation. The cracks near the walls are filled with foam.

Attention! The thickness of the insulation must exceed 7 cm for high-quality floor insulation. But you should not use too thick insulation. After all, the height of the sill must be made below 20 cm, and the height of the room should not exceed 2.45 m, and the height of the fence should be more than 95 cm. Based on these data, it is necessary to choose the optimal insulation thickness for you.

Wall insulation

Action plan:

Waterproofing is in progress. Bars are installed on top of the waterproofing, in the form of a lattice. The section of the timber must be selected in such a way that after the laying of the insulation there is small space between the finishing surface and the insulation. As a result, an air cushion is formed - the thermal insulation characteristics will improve.

We put insulation in the formed cells. Finishing the walls. Particleboard, lining, drywall, etc. can be used as a material for finishing. It depends on individual preferences.

You can choose the material that suits you in terms of aesthetic parameters by looking at many photos of balcony insulation on the Internet.

Ceiling insulation

There are two options for ceiling insulation: using a frame and without. In the second option, it is necessary to use light materials and this insulation is attached directly to the ceiling plate.

Action plan:

The cleaned surface of the ceiling is covered with an antiseptic. Insulation is attached using polyurethane foam or glue.

Bars are attached on top of the material for mounting the finishing. If you apply mineral wool: initially the frame is made, then the insulation is laid and the drywall is mounted. The topcoat is being mounted.

Insulation of the balcony from the outside is more correct. This method of insulation allows you to save the balcony space, and also prevent the formation of condensation from the inside.

But the problem is that it is practically impossible to produce it without specialists. Therefore, it is better to order insulation of the balcony outside from specialized organizations specializing in turnkey balcony insulation.

Balcony insulation photo

Until recently, the balconies of city apartments served as a kind of storage room - there people kept preservation and various things. What is really there, on the balconies they carried out any unnecessary rubbish that it was a pity to throw away. Today, however, these premises are increasingly used as additional living space. And in order to realize such an idea, you need to take care of the insulation of the balcony.

If you insulate the balcony, you will be able not only to expand the living area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment relatively cheaply, but also significantly reduce the heat loss of the home. The fact is that it is through the balconies that most of the heat leaves. But for everything to be done efficiently, you need to know where to start. With a well-designed scheme, it will be much easier to turn a cold balcony into a small, but almost complete room.

So, first, sketch out a rough work plan - it will include:

Important information! The balcony can be insulated both from the inside and outside. But in view of the fact that you will do the work on your own, that is, without the help of specialists, it is better to resort to internal insulation.

Stage 1. Choosing a heater

There are a lot of thermal insulation materials on the modern construction market, but for a balcony it is more suitable:

As for the foam and EPS, the laying of these materials is carried out practically using the same technology (the only exception is the form of adhesion - in EPS it is better due to the use of grooves).

It is better not to use mineral wool for the balcony - the installation procedure will be more laborious, and the condensate that inevitably forms on the balcony is undesirable for this material. Expanded clay, for obvious reasons, can only be used for floor insulation (insulation technology will be described in detail below).

And if to all of the above we add the fact that the balcony in no case should be overloaded, then it becomes obvious: the most suitable option - This is foam plastic 4-5 cm thick, which is cheaper than expanded polystyrene or mineral wool.

Stage 2. We carry out glazing

If your balcony is already glazed, you can skip this step. The glazing procedure itself largely depends on the parapet installed on the balcony. If we are talking about an iron crate, then you must build it up using foam blocks or ceramic bricks. It is important that the thickness of the walls as a result exceeds the mark of 10 cm. And if you have a reinforced concrete parapet, you can immediately start installing windows.

Today, many (especially fans of environmentally friendly building materials) prefer double-glazed windows with wooden frames. It is worth remembering that such structures must be treated with an antiseptic and painted regularly. You can learn about the installation of insulating glass units with wooden frames in the video below.

Video - How to install a wooden window with double-glazed windows

However, most of the consumers still buy PVC windows. When buying, choose a special plastic profile, characterized by increased rigidity and strength characteristics. In addition, the profile must have good thermal insulation properties.

Even at plastic windows it should be:

• 5-chamber profile;
• 2-chamber (if you live in the middle lane) or 3-chamber (if in a more severe climate) glass unit;
• reinforced reinforcement.

After installation of the PVC structure ordered according to the size of the balcony (the work must be done by specialists), you can proceed directly to the insulation.

Stage 3. We insulate the floor

Consider how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands using foam (although the technology described below is also suitable for expanded polystyrene).

Table. Floor insulation on the balcony

Steps, no.	Short description	Illustration
Step # 1	First, prepare the work surfaces - seal all the cracks found in the concrete, as well as at the joints between the slabs and the wall, with foam.
Step # 2	Mark the floor for the subsequent construction of the lathing. In this case, it is important that the pitch of the lathing exceeds the width of the insulation sheets by about 10 mm.
Step # 3	According to the previously made markings, lay the slats (the approximate size of the bars is 4x4 cm, however, it is necessary that their width corresponds to the thickness of the insulation material). The first and last slats should retreat from the walls by 50-100 mm. Connect the rails with self-tapping screws.
Step # 4	Place foam sheets between the battens, gluing them to the floor liquid nails or special glue. Blow out any resulting voids with polyurethane foam.
Step # 5	Lay on top of the insulation On top of the insulation, lay a vapor barrier layer (necessary to increase thermal insulation and prevent condensation). If you are using regular PET film, never put it on the “cold” side of the insulator. If you are installing foil insulation, use the foil to the foam.
Step 6	Fasten plywood or chipboard sheets on top, and the thickness flooring must be at least 20 mm. Attach the sheets to the slats with self-tapping screws.
Step 7	All that remains is to lay the topcoat, which you can use as carpet or linoleum.

Important information! There is another way to insulate the floor on the balcony with foam: sheets of foam are attached to the leveled and cleaned surface, and a thin screed is poured from a previously prepared solution of a dry mixture on top. As topcoat ceramic tiles can be used here.

Alternative option. We use expanded clay

As noted earlier, the floor on the balcony can also be insulated with expanded clay. This material is also inexpensive, and its installation is not difficult. Let's get acquainted with the algorithm of actions.

Step # 1.First, lay a waterproofing film on the floor with an exit to the walls of 10 cm.

Step # 2.Place the beacons around the perimeter in increments of about 25 cm, while being careful not to lean them too much against the walls.

Step # 3. Fill the floor with a layer of expanded clay 15 cm thick, distribute the material evenly over the surface.

Step # 4.Moisten expanded clay with cement "milk" (this is a water solution of cement).

Step # 5.Pour the expanded clay with a layer of concrete or self-leveling mixture. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure of the insulator.

Step 6. Wait until the screed is completely dry. Then you can start laying the topcoat.

Stage 4. We insulate the walls

The technology here is practically the same as for floor insulation. Follow these steps.

Step # 1. Mark the future location of the slats on the walls (as for the floor).

Step # 2. Attach the strips according to the given markings.

Step # 3. Apply to surfaces in a wave-like motion polyurethane foam... At the same stage, holes for the dowels should be drilled.

Step # 4... Attach the Styrofoam sheets using plastic mushroom plugs.

Step # 5... Blow out all the cracks formed with polyurethane foam, and then glue it with assembly tape.

Step 6... Lay a waterproofing layer on top - for example, penofol, which will also serve as thermal insulation at the same time.

Step 7... Cover the seams at the joints with foil tape.

Step 8. Mount the counter grill on top of the foam and install the finishing material.

Stage 5. We insulate the ceiling

This procedure is also performed using a similar technology, but some differences still occur.

1. First, make the markings along which the hangers will be installed for attaching the guides.
2. Install the hangers themselves, necessary to fix the guides (in the role of the latter, use a galvanized profile or timber).

   

   

3. Cut small holes in the insulator (foam or EPS) in the appropriate places for the hangers.

   

   

4. Next, fix the insulation plates using the same polyurethane foam.

   

If the insulation weighs too much, then you can use dowels for fastening. Blow out the cracks with foam. Otherwise, there are no significant differences.

Finishing features

In most cases, balconies are lined from the inside with a clapboard or profile, but drywall is also used, followed by wallpapering. PVC panels are also used for cladding. As for the exterior decoration, it is better to entrust it to professionals, especially if your apartment is located higher than on the ground floor.

Important information! It is forbidden to carry out central heating there, so if additional heating is required, you can lay a film "warm floor" under the linoleum.

You can also install an outlet on the balcony to which it will be connected electric heater... The described room is small, so heating will take a minimum of time. Note also that a glass unit weighs a lot, so the rest of the materials (including the insulator itself) should be of minimum weight. By the way, this is another reason why it is better to give preference to EPS or foam plates.

Video - Balcony insulation instructions

Now you know about the strengths and weaknesses of materials suitable for insulating a balcony, as well as about technologies for laying foam and expanded clay. Therefore, it's time to start working directly! Moreover, there is nothing complicated here if you are armed with step-by-step instructions and all necessary materials... If you do everything right, then turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room with all the ensuing advantages.

Insulating the balcony, we create a buffer zone on the path of cold air to living quarters, add a little square meters to create a pantry, or even a small room - but that's if you connect a heater. In our step-by-step instructions, we will tell you how to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands and what materials are used for this.

Balcony insulation begins with checking the supporting structures. To do this, it is advisable to look at the balcony slab from the balcony of the neighbors below: if the beginning destruction is visible with the naked eye, then you can strengthen the concrete and reinforcing layer as shown in the figure. If you doubt the strength of the slab and the ability to carry an increased load of glazing, insulation, floors, it is better to seek expertise. Although, as practice shows, balconies can easily withstand increased load and collapse - fortunately, this is an extremely rare exception to the rule.

a - concrete is knocked off in damaged places. b - the surface is cleaned and repair compounds are applied: 1 - contact layer; 2 - anti-corrosion protection; 3 - repair mortar; 4 - leveling putty

Before starting work, you need to remove the old finish and frames (if any), clean all surfaces from collapsing elements, if necessary, make a small concrete screed or fill up the slabs with concrete mortar.

Insulation works can be divided into:

• outer skin;
• glazing;
• internal insulation;
• finishing.

Outside parapet siding

The easiest way to make the outer balcony cladding is vinyl siding.

Outside the parapet, a vertical lathing is assembled so that it forms a single flat area (checking with a stretched thread). The bars or the metal profile of the battens are fixed at a distance of about 40 cm from each other. Further, along the lower and upper perimeter, guides for siding (closing profile) are mounted, and the corners are made out with a special vinyl profile - "outer corner".

The siding starter bar is attached with the long side to the lower rail using self-tapping screws. Better to start from the side wall - and the panel is shorter and less visible from the street - you can practice. Soft mineral wool slabs can be placed between the siding and the balcony grating. At the top of the parapet, you need to mount a drainage system.

A very short video about the main stages of cladding:

Glazing is an obligatory stage in the insulation of the balcony. In this case, you can independently make frames made of wood, aluminum or steel profile (corner, shaped tube) and glazed, or you can buy ready-made double-glazed windows. The first option will be cheaper, but it is more time consuming and, most importantly, it will only slightly increase the temperature on the balcony in winter. You are unlikely to succeed in sealed windows without the use of insulating glass technology, they will have to be insulated for the winter or not, and leave the balcony, in principle, cold, which will only reduce the wind load. So it is better to order ready-made double-glazed windows for glazing.

If the balcony was not glazed, and you are not insulating the loggia, then the parapet for installing the frames is most likely missing or insufficient. You can create a retaining wall in the form of a reinforcement cage with concreting or brick. To lighten the structure, expanded clay can be poured into concrete, reducing the overall load. The top of the parapet must also be reinforced with a metal profile.

If the protective grid of the balcony is strong enough, and the double-glazed windows are single-chamber, aluminum are very light, then they can act as a support wooden boards under the window sill, which are attached to the top of the grate.

If the balcony has a small area, then you can weld a frame on brackets that protrudes beyond the concrete slab. At the same time, the window sill will not "eat" the valuable volume of the balcony. Such a balcony arrangement is called a take-out.

After that, the window sills and the frame of the future glazing are installed - without frames and sashes, which will be mounted later. For this, the metal structure is welded to metal profile parapet and supports fixed to the neighbor's balcony slab from above. If you live on the top floor, the structure will be more complicated, since you will have to make a canopy, for example, from corrugated board, polycarbonate, etc. In this case, the racks must be more durable.

After the frame is fixed, the upper drainage systems (visor) are mounted and the double-glazed windows are installed according to the instructions.

For the glazing features of small balconies without increasing the area, see the video:

Insulation of the balcony from the inside

From the inside, the balcony is insulated from the walls, floor and ceiling. To do this, you can use various thermal insulation materials.

Balcony insulation materials

Thermal conductivity of building heat-insulating materials differs within wide limits, therefore it is impossible to name the recommended thickness unambiguously. For information, see how the optimum thicknesses differ to achieve the same thermal resistance when using popular materials.

The basic requirements for materials also include:

• long-term strength;
• non-hygroscopicity;
• fire safety.

Most often used:

• mineral or stone wool - fiber insulation;
• lightweight polystyrene and "Penoplex" (different types of expanded polystyrene) - slab materials;
• polyurethane foam or "Penoflex" - polyurethane foam.

Sometimes a composition of these materials is used.

Fiber insulation is convenient for installation when it is made in the form of soft slabs or blankets with a foil surface.

Polyurethane foam is applied using special, preferably professional equipment.

To compare the consumer properties of materials, we have summarized their main characteristics in a table.

Stages of insulating a balcony from the inside

Now that the basic properties of thermal insulation building materials we know, consider the order of work.

Advice! If lighting or connecting heating devices is supposed to be on the balcony, make the wiring to the lamp, switch and outlet in advance by placing the cables in plastic boxes. This will hide the wiring, which is much more attractive than open wiring.

Before work, make sure that dust, small particles of insulation or mortar do not pollute the apartment - cover the openings with foil.

Floor insulation

Insulation should start from the floor. First, a layer of waterproofing should be laid on the balcony slab. It can be ordinary polyethylene or foil insulation. At this stage waterproofing material can also be fixed to walls.

To protect against condensation, a vapor barrier is laid on top. If you purchase an embossed film, then you need to lay it with the embossed side up.

The subfloor is completed with 10 mm plywood in two layers. It is attached to the lags with screws. Instead of plywood, you can use sheets of fiberboard or chipboard.

Ceiling insulation

Apply a layer of antiseptic to the cleaned ceiling. For thermal insulation, you can take foil-clad mineral wool or foam. A good solution would be to use penofol - a foam material covered with aluminum foil, which is glued to PVA, and nailed on top with a crate for attaching the finishing layer of finishing - a type-setting ceiling, drywall or siding.

Styrofoam can be fixed to the ceiling using polyurethane foam.

Minvata is laid on a plasterboard false ceiling, which is fixed to a frame made of an aluminum profile or a wooden bar 40x40 mm.

If required, fix the fixtures.

Wall insulation

The waterproofing was already completed at the first stage, so a vertical or horizontal lathing made of timber is immediately mounted on top of it. The distance between the bars is equal to the width of the insulating material. For walls, it is better to use expanded polystyrene or mineral wool plates.

PPP can be glued to special glue or foam, be sure to blow it all the joints and cracks.

A vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the insulation.

Finishing work

There are many materials that can be used to decorate a balcony. This is drywall, which can be plastered or covered with wallpaper, and tiles, and vinyl siding, and lining.

Most balconies are equipped with stationary or mobile clothes dryers that can rise to the ceiling.

If the space allows, compact furniture or transforming furniture can be installed on the balcony: folding tables and seats, and some lucky owners of wide balconies even equip sleeping place... The window sill can be made wider and turned into a table top - for morning coffee or doing business.

If desired, you can install a fan heater on the balcony, which will allow you to use additional space in spring and autumn, or install an electric convector, which will make the balcony all-season for equipping an office or a winter garden there.

In conclusion, we suggest you look at photos of the design finishes of the balcony space - for inspiration and a source of ideas.

Despite small size, the comprehensive modernization of these parts of residential buildings is a challenging task. To find out how with your own hands, step by step photo must be supplemented detailed descriptions working operations. Information about modern materials,. It is necessary to find out how the new premises will be equipped. Finding the right answers to these and other practical questions will be easier after reading this article.

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Do-it-yourself balcony insulation: step-by-step instructions for preparatory work

Open balconies in domestic climatic conditions can be fully exploited no more than several months a year. They are blown by cold winds, covered with rain and covered with snow. After the implementation of the project, the necessary protection will be created. Even when choosing the most economical option, the insulation characteristics of the property will improve, and the costs for it will decrease. After a deep modernization, you can actually increase the living space at a relatively low cost.

Preventing erroneous actions

Some important details should be noted at the beginning to rule out incorrect decisions:

• Excessive "frugality" can subsequently be transformed into additional costs. If you install cheap frames without, use insufficient quality and finishing materials, the desired result will not be obtained. Subsequent alterations are additional costs.
• Wrong choice of technology also comes with troubles. It is necessary to carefully study the nuances of the techniques in order to make sure that they are realistic to reproduce on their own. Specialists can be invited to perform the most complex workflows.
• Standard can not be installed on the balcony. Some municipal authorities prohibit changing the color of external surfaces, installing frames and other visible changes from outside.

Important! Make sure that the project does not violate the requirements of applicable codes and regulations. If such a structure is not officially approved, it will have to be removed at your own expense with the payment of a fine.

Formulation of the problem

After a detailed study of the thematic materials, final conclusions will be drawn. But already at the first stage, it is necessary to formulate general requirements, note the following important details:

• Even small modifications increase the weight of the structure. It is necessary to take into account the increase in loads on the load-bearing frame, schedule a specialized check. In some situations, a separate engineering calculation will be required.
• If remains door block, it is not necessary to impose increased requirements on the insulation characteristics of the balcony. Otherwise, they should be no worse than in.
• A home computer network is installed in the new premises. It is necessary to decide on the equipment of the balcony.
• It is advisable here to make the floor of the same level as the room, without thresholds and steps.

This figure shows that if you want, you can increase the available area. But we must remember that such structures significantly increase the load on the building. They must be approved in accordance with the procedure established by law, since significant changes in the initial design are assumed.

Important! A simple freehand drawing is better than no documentation at all. On its basis, it is easier to prepare a list of components, materials, tools and other necessary products.

How to insulate the floor, walls and ceiling on the balcony: choice of materials

If appropriate, it is better to install the insulation outside the walls. This will help move the dew point towards the street. The likelihood of moisture penetration into the main building structures will decrease. This will prevent their destruction, the appearance of mold. The existing volume of the balcony will be rationally used.

It is easier to carry out assembly operations inside on your own. Therefore, only the corresponding techniques will be considered below. To find out how to insulate a balcony with your own hands with detailed step-by-step photos, instructions, you need to correctly decide on.

Picture	Name	Benefits	disadvantages
	Expanded clay	Low cost; good filling with granules of complex volumes; maintaining integrity for a long service life; incombustibility.	High moisture permeability, which is accompanied by a loss of insulating properties.
	Mineral wool	The durability of products of a modern level; resistance to high temperature; high quality of butt joints.	Low strength; deterioration of the structure and an increase in thermal conductivity when water enters. These materials must be additionally protected from mechanical damage and increased.
	Styrofoam	Reasonable prices; ease of processing; smooth outer surface; light weight.	Low strength, flammability. To improve the resistance to open flame, special additives are used, but the corresponding materials are more expensive.
	Expanded polystyrene boards	High strength of products with a sufficiently high density; ease of installation; moisture resistance; durability.	Relatively expensive factory-made materials from well-known manufacturers. Difficulty filling internal volumes without the formation of empty spaces.
	Polystyrene formed at a construction site from several liquid components	It has all the advantages of slabs, but additionally it fills all cavities of any shape.	The total cost is higher because special equipment has to be used.
	Foamed polyethylene with a layer of metal foil (penofol)	Small thickness; long-term preservation of good consumer characteristics; moisture resistance.	High price.

Note!The insulation system will be effective if insulating materials are installed on the outer wall, floor, ceiling.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: a step by step photo, installation of windows

Picture	Description of actions
	Taking into account the characteristics of a particular balcony, they create a reliable support for the frames. If necessary (as in the picture from the example), install additional metal supports. The manufacture of such products is entrusted to a specialized enterprise.
	Easier to work with complete frames. They are installed sequentially. After accurate alignment using the building level, the gaps are filled with construction foam.
	If it is necessary to install double-glazed windows directly on the object, beads with seals are inserted carefully. In order not to damage the fragile plastic, use a wooden hammer, damping pads.
	Next, they install Wooden frames deteriorate by weather and natural influences From polymers create swing and sliding systems, curved and rectangular frames. If necessary, apply painting, lamination. Article