How to make a compressor from a car pump. Air compressor: do it yourself from the refrigerator. DIY high pressure compressor

What selection of home-use compressors does the industry have to offer today? Frankly, the assortment is small, and besides, the proposed samples have a lot of disadvantages, ranging from size and weight to noise level.

Ready-made homemade compressor

It turns out that a homemade compressor will be the best solution to the problem with the equipment of a home workshop.

Engine selection

In my opinion, the best choice for a home compressor engine, you can call a unit from household refrigerator Soviet era. Personally, I made myself two home-made compressors with such units, one block was vertical (I don't know the brand), and the second from the Yuryuzan refrigerator (horizontally located).

One compressor was designed to power the airbrush, while the other worked with a staple gun. There were no problems with either one or the other units. Many may argue that they have a small performance, in my opinion, they don't need it anymore for the house. But during operation, such a device is practically inaudible.

Compressor equipment

In addition to the engine and the pumping unit itself, the compressor needs other component parts for normal operation. To make a compressor with our own hands, we need:

• The base for the whole structure;
• Air receiver;
• Filters and moisture separator;
• Connecting hoses or tubes;
• Reducer and pressure gauge;
• Engine starting equipment;

Homemade compressor design

The base, it is the frame, can have any design and be made of any available material.

For example, you can use a sheet of thick plywood or chipboard of the required dimensions as a base, and mark all the compressor units so that all its parts are freely accessible.

In principle, the construction of the base and its materials are limited only by the imagination of the developer, for example, I had one of the compressors without a frame at all (I will describe below how to do it).

As a receiver, inventive people most often use old receivers from the KamAZ brake system, very convenient thing, there are all the necessary threads for the fittings and a valve for draining the condensate. Alternatively, you can use an old foam or carbon dioxide fire extinguisher (preferably several in series).

You will have to work a little with such a receiver - weld pipes and bushings to connect the rest of the system.
It is best to use air filters and a moisture separator of industrial production, at a price of course a little expensive (a good set now costs from 3000), but the quality is worth the money.

Making an air compressor with your own hands without connecting hoses or tubes will not work. By personal experience I can say that oxygen hoses (from welding) show very good results, there is only one drawback - a decent mass, and, therefore, it is inconvenient to work with an airbrush, for it it is better to use a standard spiral hose.

With the starting equipment, everything is clear, a standard engine starting relay is used, only a switch is added. It is more convenient to use the foot key, then the hands remain free during operation.

Compressor work

I'll tell you how to make a compressor using my example. It started with trying to use a small commercially available compressor to inflate the wheels for the airbrush. I was dissatisfied with his performance and got down to work.

I took the old refrigerator from my mother-in-law, took out the unit with the wiring from it, threw the rest. The motor was sanded and re-painted with paint from a spray can, then went to the construction market. There I picked up a piece of oxygen hose, purchased suitable clamps and a switch.

After that, he went to his friends in the unit and became the owner of a new KAMAZ receiver. He brought all this stuff home and began to create a simple design.

In order not to make a frame, I decided to use the receiver as the basis for the entire compressor. To do this, I first cut it out of whatman paper and fitted it to the place of attachment under the engine and supports for the receiver. After everything was ready, I cut out the parts from steel 1.5 mm thick, bent them and welded them to the receiver. Thus, we got an analogue of a factory compressor.

Then everything is simple - I installed a pumping unit on the pillows and connected all the electrics. Then he took up pneumatics, attached a fuel filter from Zhiguli to the compressor inlet through a piece of hose (later replaced it with a frame welded from wire, covered with thin foam rubber).

I screwed an adapter for the supply hose into the threaded bushing of the receiver and connected it to the pump outlet pipe, a moisture separator unit with a reducer and a pressure gauge stood in the opposite bushing, to which a gas cock with a connector for connecting the airbrush hose was screwed. I tried it - everything works great, no complaints.

A little advice for those who are going to make a compressor from the refrigerator with their own hands - turn on a check valve between the compressor and the receiver, the load on the motor will significantly decrease.

Air compressor is a device that sprays paint. It is commonly used in workshops and garages for painting cars or inflating wheels. You can purchase such equipment in a specialized store or make it yourself. Unlike factory models, DIY equipment can be more efficient and last much longer. In addition, in terms of financial costs, self-production will be cheaper.

Using an accessory from a car, you can make a compressor of a simple design. This is a finished electrical appliance - wheel inflator... The compressor has two positive properties:

• Power. The device is capable of creating high pressure up to 5-6 atmospheres, without unnecessary load on the engine. This is the main advantage automotive devices... But it will take about 10 minutes to pump up the wheels. Therefore, work is done intermittently, otherwise cheap devices may overheat during this time. The reason is the low performance of automobile compressors.
• Performance. For a unit of time, the device is capable of delivering air quickly and in large quantities. Due to its high performance, the container fills up faster, and the direct use of compressed air increases the flow from the nozzle.

A high-speed engine and a device with a volumetric piston system will help to combine power and performance. To prevent the equipment from stopping during overheating, it is necessary to create additional cooling of the cylinders. Sometimes turbines are used for the working unit. In everyday life to frequent use simple apparatus do not resort because of their high cost. In order not to choose between power and performance, use a receiver.

The receiver is a storage capacity... For industrial devices, a steel cylinder is used as a receiver. Quite powerful, but not very efficient compressor slowly fills the bottle. In a short period of time, it is possible to supply a volumetric air flow from the receiver, but only when sufficient pressure appears. After supplying air, it must restore pressure. All devices work according to this principle. For a compressor with low power, an electric motor from a toy is suitable. This device is often used to supply air to an aquarium.

Functional homemade compressor

Unlike devices that are made of car accessories, the compressor from the refrigerator runs continuously. This is due to its good power and performance. In addition, in terms of quality, it is not worse than the factory models. And if there is an opportunity to get the components for free, then the money for the manufacture of such a device will take a minimum. The device is designed for painting and blowing, tire fitting, perfectly ensures the operation of pneumatic tools. For the manufacture of a compressor under a voltage of 220 V you will need the following details:

1. Motor-compressor from an old refrigerator.
2. Tees, oil filling pipe, hoses, fittings, wall inlets.
3. A reducer that will monitor the pressure.
4. Two pressure gauges.
5. Receiver. A fire extinguisher or gas bottlewhich should be completely empty. You can weld a homemade container from sheet iron and a thick pipe.
6. Air filter.
7. Butter.
8. Emergency valve.
9. Start relay and pressure switch.
10. Metal paint.
11. Fum tape, hacksaw and engine oil.
12. Key and syringe.

Compressor assembly consists of several stages:

High power compressor

If the previous version of the compressor is not powerful enough for you, then there are devices with more high pressure and high performance... An internal combustion engine is used here as a compressor, the crankshaft of which begins to work not from the combustion of fuel, but from the reverse process. In this case, the piston group of the device has a large margin of safety. An electric motor with a power of 3 kW or more is used as a drive, which can be purchased at a low cost. Or use a working motor by removing the ignition and intake system, exhaust, starter group and gearbox.

This apparatus is capable of creating a pressure of 10 atmospheres. Very noisy.

Medium Power Air Compressor

From a gas cylinder or fire extinguisher a medium power air compressor is created. To do this, connect an old fire extinguisher (balloon) and a powerful autocompressor for pumping the wheels. When self-production apparatus, the following rules must be observed:

• A container with mechanical damage and corrosive deposits must not be used.
• The structure must be well fixed.
• Steel lathing is required. This is necessary if the receiver accidentally bursts.
• It is necessary to provide for a pressure reserve. If you plan to increase the pressure to 5 atmospheres, then its strength should be from 10 atmospheres.
• In order for the compressor to automatically shut off when the pressure reaches a maximum, an emergency shutdown sensor is installed. Alternatively, a mechanical valve should be installed, which, if necessary, will make an emergency release of pressure.
• Do not leave the device with high pressure for a long time if it is used in rare cases. To maintain tightness, 0.5 atmospheres is enough.

Do not neglect safety precautions: do not forget about the installation of emergency sensors. An over-pumped wheel will simply burst, and if a steel cylinder explodes, you can get serious injuries.

It's easy to make a compressor yourself... Its design can be simple or complex, the main thing is what it is intended for and how much money you are willing to spend on its manufacture. But do not forget that the device must meet technical safety requirements.

Conduct high-quality painting cars in a garage is possible. To do this, you need to arrange a convenient spray boothand also equip necessary tool... Many car owners cannot afford to buy expensive equipment, so they have to make a compressor for painting a car with their own hands. This operation is significantly cheaper.

For the competent manufacture of this device, you will need to familiarize yourself with the theoretical part. Thanks to this preparation, in the process of subsequent work, it will be possible to avoid the appearance on the painted surface of granularity, shagreen or dust particles mixed with the paint.

The operation of almost any factory or home-made compressor is based on the same principle. In the sealed cavity, an increased pressure is formed, which is higher than atmospheric pressure, and then it is directed and dosed using it.

For injection, mechanical or manual way... In the second case, energy savings are obtained, as well as independence from the presence near working area points of supply of electricity. In the case of automatic air supply to the working cylinder, it will be necessary to control the presence of oil for the air compressor.

Before we make a compressor for painting a car ourselves, we will prepare a toolkit. There is a way in which a car camera is a working element. To do this, select the components from the list:

• working chamber from a car or truck;
• a pump with a built-in pressure gauge to build up pressure;
• additional nipple for the camera;
• hard awl;
• repair kit for sealing the camera.

We first check the tightness of the selected chamber. To do this, it is pumped up and lowered into water. If leaks are found, then we will definitely get rid of them.

We mark in the free space the point at which the installation of the second nipple is supposed. In this place we make a hole with an awl. The fitting must be glued in using a repair kit. A uniform air supply will be ensured through it.

An initial nipple built into the chamber is required to maintain the operating pressure at the required level. The performance of the installation is determined by the end result. When the paint is evenly spread, it indicates correct assembly and sufficient pressure in the container. The pressure gauge built into the pump will help to select the desired parameter.

When such a homemade compressor for painting a car works, then you need to try to prevent moisture and small debris from entering the cavity. This will ensure maximum cleanliness of the painted surface. It is also advisable to prevent condensation from forming inside the chamber.

Advanced compressor

With proper assembly and regular maintenance of the device, a homemade compressor can last much longer than a factory one. With all this, it is unlimited in repair parts, and also can be periodically improved and refined.

The basis for a more progressive model is the elements of the old refrigerator:

• receiver for the compressor;
• pressure gauge for 10 atm;
• a relay that monitors the pressure inside the compressor;
• pipe thread adapters;
• gasoline filter;
• gearbox with a filter protected from moisture and oil;
• plumbing cross with ¾ inch thread;
• electric motor for compressor operation;
• hydraulic hose clamps;
• semi-synthetic oil;
• oil resistant hose;
• copper tubes;
• medical syringe;
• wooden plate;
• rust remover;
• power system filter;
• hardware elements;
• furniture wheels;
• sealant, sealing tape;
• small file or saw for metal;
• electrical switch (220 V).

The advantage of earlier models of refrigerators is the presence of a start relay. Also positive is the rather powerful pressure that the compressor develops. Using a rust converter, we clean problem areas on the body and working elements of the prepared assembly.

It is advisable to carry out a small maintenance of the compressor, replacing the oil in it with a semi-synthetic one. Modern oils have a sufficient amount of additives to ensure long compressor operation. It has three branch pipes, one of which is hermetically sealed. Air circulation will be carried out in the other two. To determine the direction of flow, you need to connect the device to the mains.

A sealed pipe hides oil in half. After biting off with nippers or sawing off its end with a file so that the chips do not fall into the cavity, carefully drain the liquid into the prepared container. By this we define required amount oil for replacement. It must be injected using a syringe of the same volume that was removed through the tube.

After topping up, plug the hole with a screw or self-tapping screw wrapped around the thread sealing tape... Now the installation of the entire structure begins on wooden base or a welded frame made of a building profile. Refrigerated compressors are quite sensitive to position in space. There is a special arrow on the body to identify it. The correct performance of the entire node depends on this.

A regular foam or powder fire extinguisher is suitable as a container for air. It is advisable to select it so that the cavity is at least 10… 12 liters. They are usually tested to withstand pressures up to 15 ... 20 MPa. To release the cavity, we unscrew the adapter with the locking and starting device.

If areas with corrosion are identified on the surface, then it is necessary to eliminate them.preventing the spread of rust that can lead to perforating damage. Such phenomena are unacceptable, since they contribute to the depressurization of the container.

A rust converter can be poured into the cavity and shaken well, then poured and dried. We attach the plumbing cross from the outside.

General installation of the structure

The most convenient option would be to arrange all parts on a wooden base. For installation use drilling holes and fixing elements with bolts and nuts. You can also use a sheet of plywood, to which everything is easily attached with self-tapping screws. On the bottom plate or frame for greater mobility, 360 movable wheels are installed.

Gasoline filters will help provide sufficient protection against penetration of fine dirt or moisture. rough cleaning... They are usually mounted on the side of the air intake. An inlet tube is placed on this side, which can be held even without clamps, since there is no high pressure.

On the outlet side, you will also need to install a protective filter, which will save the air flow from moisture and oil particles from the compressor. Fuel filters are used as such a blocker. Such a knot will not survive without clamps.

We will install an adjustment relay in the output crosspiece, as well as a pressure gauge for pressure control. We connect the free plug to the gearbox. Using the relay, it will be possible to adjust the pressure height range in the receiver.

PM5 (RDM5) is used as an actuator... It was originally used in plumbing systems, but since it is a two-pin switch, it will work in our case as well. One contact goes to the connection with the supercharger, and the second to the "zero" of the 220 V.

Using the toggle switch, we connect the mains phase. It will help you quickly turn off the power if necessary, so as not to run to the outlet for this.

Pressure monitoring

Having collected all the elements together, we need to check the performance of the mechanism. To do this, we connect the device to the mains, and set the relay to the minimum pressure supply. We monitor the readings of the manometer during the operation of the system.

After checking the relay, it will be necessary to identify possible places of loss of tightness. A prepared soap solution is used for this operation. It is made thick in the form of a gruel. We coat problem areas with a solution on a running compressor. If air bubbles appear, then seal the leak.

During a possible drop in pressure to critical values, you can install additional air pumping with the inclusion of the compressor. After obtaining positive results during the test, you can.

We select a satisfactory pressure for the operation of the system empirically. It is necessary to select the settings in this situation so that everything happens at the minimum values \u200b\u200bof the blower operation. With this design, you can paint any surface.

Budget compressor option

Building a compressor for painting can be quite economical. At the heart of it, you can also use elements from an old refrigerator, and any sealed cavity is usually used for a container with air:

• Depleted oxygen cylinder. It is able to withstand high pressure parameters, but has a drawback - a large mass.
• Propane bottle. It has the same positive qualities as oxygen.
• Fire extinguisher. Models with a volume of 10 liters or more are suitable, as they have a better ability to withstand high pressure. However, they have a metric thread at the outlet.
• Hydroaccumulator. The cavity has a good volume with sufficient working pressure. Requires some modifications to get rid of the diaphragm and metric threads.

In the next step, we combine the receiver with the compressor. It is necessary to provide for maximum compatibility of connectors for connecting a relay that can turn off the compressor at the right time. You can also use the RDM-5.

The pressure gauge is selected with a maximum value of 10 atm. We select fittings, tees or angles with inch thread. This will facilitate the assembly and ensure maximum air passage through the channels. To place the structure, the use of a chipboard plate is allowed.

As a result, the list of necessary elements will be in the following configuration:

• Prepared compressor;
• Receiver for air flow distribution;
• Pressure switch connected to the network;
• Manometer up to 10 atm;
• Filter reducer;
• Emergency valve;
• Transitional threaded elements;
• Sealing elements (tape, paste, etc.);
• Wiring, plugs and on / off elements;
• Hose that protects against moisture and oil;
• Particle board;
• Hardware elements, wheels, gaskets.

If you are intimidated by the number of parts and the complexity of manufacturing, you can always get an inexpensive factory-made compressor.

Mounting the receiver in the form of a hydraulic accumulator will be the easiest, since it is already equipped with the necessary brackets. They can also be used to mount the compressor from above. You get a two-tier design.

It is advisable to use bolts with hooks passed through pre-drilled holes as fasteners. This will provide greater structural stability.

It will be possible to reduce the effect of vibrations with rubber / silicone gaskets used as damping.

With the help of prepared flexible tubes we connect the compressor outlet and the input to the receiver. Protective mechanisms in the form of filters are required. Power is supplied to the switch and relay. The structure must be grounded.

For two years now I have been dreaming of buying a compressor. A very useful device for a wide variety of work in the garage: pumping up wheels, painting with a pistol, blowing engine parts and so on. On average, a simple compressor costs 10 thousand rubles, a home-made one cost 300 rubles, plus a bunch of rubbish that was lying around at home. An old compressor from a refrigerator, a gas cylinder, a 10 BAR pressure gauge, brass elbows and tees, plugs for them, metal nipples from moped chambers, clamps, washers.

For manufacturing, I used a compressor from a cylindrical refrigerator installed horizontally. It has a capacity of 10 l / min, which is very small compared to industrial ones, but I don't need to let air out at a low pressure of 3 Bar for 5-10 seconds, when the pressure in the receiver (I'll talk about it later) is 8-9 Bar.

For the receiver, I take a 50L gas cylinder. I drained all the gasoline from him ahead of time. I tried to untwist the crane, but no matter what methods I used, the crane did not give in.

Since the valve on the cylinder has a left-hand thread, I decided to make a 3/4 inch adapter with a right-hand thread. I took a high pressure hose and two adapters from 3/4 to 10mm with left and right threads. It turned out such an adapter

I assembled a simple splitter from tees and corners and made a test connection.

In 45 minutes, the cylinder gained a pressure of almost 9 bar, with a receiver volume of 50L, this is about 430L of air

I dialed a couple of times, and then lowered the cylinder upside down to remove the remaining gas and gasoline, after which I began a thorough assembly. The position of the cylinder is horizontal, I welded on the compressor mount from above and installed all the wiring with a pressure gauge. I fixed the circuit on clips attached to nails welded to the cylinder. I connected the compressor with the diagram with a hose, fastening it to the clamps

I drilled a hole in the plug, inserted a nipple into it and put a rubber gasket on top. The plug was clamped on the tap, two tees in a row to the tap: one branch to the receiver, the other to the pressure gauge. Then I screwed the corner, a coarse filter to the corner, a coupling to the filter and the same plug as on the other side.

The filter had to be installed so that the oil that squeezes out the compressor would settle and not get into the receiver and pipes.

The only thing left to do is to weld the legs and paint everything in one color. There is one leg in front, two legs behind. All legs are the remains of the corner

The machine did not turn off until there was no money for the purchase. For the same reason, the pressure regulator was not supplied. I’ll finish the money, but for now there’s enough.

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From SW. Admin check

A homemade refrigerator compressor is most often used in tandem with an airbrush or spray gun, as it works almost silently, takes up little space and creates sufficient air pressure. It is also suitable for pumping up the wheels of a car. Next, we will tell you how to make a compressor yourself.

Materials and tools for a homemade compressor from the refrigerator

Compressor. The motor from the old refrigerator is called the compressor, it is the central element of our product. How it looks can be seen in the photo: details different models may differ, but are generally similar to each other. The compressor is supplied with a start relay (black box attached to the side) from which a power cord with a plug comes out.

Receiver. The capacity into which air will be pumped by the compressor. Here options are possible: any tight-fitting container with a volume of 3 to 10 liters made of iron or plastic is suitable. This can be an empty fire extinguisher, small cisterns, various receivers from trucks, cans from construction fluids.

Hoses. You will need three pieces of hose. Two 10 cm long and one 30-70 cm long, depending on the shape of the receiver and the intended mounting. It is convenient to use fuel hoses in a car, as they will connect to car filters.

You will also need one hose or tube to connect a ready-made homemade compressor from the refrigerator to the air consumer itself. Here the length, the material depends on the specific needs. If you will be using a compressor with an airbrush, any thin polyvinyl hose (or the one that comes with the airbrush) will do. When using the compressor outdoors, look for a thicker hose.

• Clamps. 5 pieces, size 16 or 20 mm.
• Tubules. Two pieces - copper or iron, with a diameter of 6 mm or others - the main thing is to fit the hoses.
• One is 10 cm long, the second is 20-50, depending on the size of the receiver, more details below.
• Automotive fuel filters. One petrol and one diesel.
• Pressure gauge (optional).
• Epoxy resin if using a plastic receiver.
• A piece wooden board (the foundation). The size depends on the size of the receiver and the motor. They should fit on the board next to each other.
• Steel tape or wire. It is needed to fix the receiver.
• Self-tapping screws for wood.

Tools:

• Sharp knife
• Screwdriver
• Drill
• Pliers.
• Metal file (optional).

How to make a compressor yourself

Now directly on how to make a compressor with your own hands.

Three tubes come out of the compressor from the refrigerator: two open and one short, sealed. Plug the compressor into a power outlet and slide your finger near the tubing outlets. The one from which the air blows will be the exit, and the one that draws in will be the entrance. Remember which one is and unplug the compressor. Use a metal file to cut two tubes, leaving 10 cm or more to connect the hoses conveniently. You can bite off with pliers, but you need to make sure that the sawdust does not get inside the tubes. Next, we fix the compressor on the base board, screwing the legs with self-tapping screws (you can use bolts, this is more reliable). Important: we fix the compressor in the same position in which it was fixed in the refrigerator. The fact is that the starting relay on the motor works due to the forces of gravity, there is an arrow on the relay case pointing up. Having secured the compressor, go to the receiver.

Making a receiver. Option if you have a plastic container. We drill two holes in the lid for our tubes. We insert them there, as shown in the figure, and fasten epoxy resin... On top we leave the ends 2-4 cm long. Now about the length of the tubes. Short (10 cm) will be the day off. The second will be the entrance, we make it as large as possible so that it does not reach a few centimeters to the bottom of the receiver. This is done in order to space the inlet and outlet openings inside the receiver as much as possible for greater air mixing.

If you have an iron receiver, we do the same, but do not glue the tubes, but solder or weld them. You can also weld the nuts, and then screw the fittings under the hoses into them.

The pressure gauge can only be installed in a metal receiver. For this we drill in any convenient place there is a hole on the receiver and we solder a pressure gauge in it. A more preferable option: weld a nut onto the hole and screw the pressure gauge into the nut. So in case of failure of the pressure gauge, you can easily replace it.

Now we take a piece of hose (10 cm) and put it on the gasoline filter. If you use hoses for gasoline, then there should be no problems, if you use polyvinyl pipes, then you may have to heat it with a match or hold it in boiling water so that it fits on the filter fitting. Put the other end of the hose on the compressor inlet tube. This inlet filter is needed to filter out dust. Here, the use of clamps is not necessary on the connections, since there is no pressure here.

We take the second piece of hose and connect it with the outlet tube on the compressor and the inlet tube on the receiver. We put clamps at the joints.

Now we put the third piece of hose (10 cm) with one end on the outlet tube of the receiver, and put the other end on the diesel filter. We put on the clamps. An arrow is drawn on the filters (diesel and petrol) indicating the correct direction of travel through the air filter. Connect both filters correctly. A diesel outlet filter is needed to filter water from the air.

On the outgoing fitting of the diesel filter we put on our working hose going directly to the airbrush, spray gun, etc.

We fasten rubber feet on the underside of the base board or glue felt pads for furniture. If this is not done, the compressor may scratch the floor during operation - it vibrates. The vibration and noise levels depend on the model of the refrigerator compressor you purchased. Motors from imported refrigerators are almost inaudible, Soviet ones are also quiet, but there are exceptions.

The pressure generated also depends on the model. Ancient motors are more powerful. Most Soviet compressors are capable of pumping pressures up to 2-2.5 bar. The compressor in the photo generates a pressure of 3.5 bar.

Servicing a homemade compressor from the refrigerator

Compressor maintenance consists of regularly changing both filters and draining any accumulated oil in the receiver. But the main factor affecting compressor life is the frequency of oil changes. The first time it is better to change it before assembling the compressor. The motor has a third sealed tube. Cut off the sealed end from it and drain the oil from it by turning the motor over. Pour out about a glass of oil. Now we pour fresh engine oil with a syringe through the same tube, a little more than the amount that was drained.

Then, in order not to seal the drain tube, we twist a bolt into it suitable size... At the next oil change, simply unscrew the bolt.