Stove passage through the wall. What is the best chimney for a wooden house? Which chimney can be taken out through the wall

When building a house, it is important to immediately think about how the internal systems will be laid to provide heating, drainage, chimney, etc. The smoke duct is laid simultaneously with the construction of walls and ceilings. Very often they think about where it will be located when the house has already been built. In this case, lay the chimney through the wall. How to correctly remove the chimney through the wall is described below.

Basic withdrawal rules

One of the main issues in the construction of a drainage system is how to properly organize the outlet of the chimney through the wall.

When carrying out a chimney outlet through a wall, it is very important to observe an angle of 90 degrees. The next structural element is installed perpendicular to the previous one. I have attached a condensate collector at the bottom, and all the main elements are on top.

Chimney outlet options diagram

The resulting wall passage is carefully insulated. All joints (where the fastening of various elements is located) must be sealed with clamps.

Another important nuance is the correct and reliable fastening of the chimney to the wall. At one time I was prompted in time that it is necessary to fasten at approximately the same intervals. In my opinion, the best distance for installing the mounts is 50-60 cm.

It is imperative to insulate the pipe from the wall. The best option - high quality and affordable - is basalt fiber. The final stage - the “neck” of the chimney is covered with a special cap.

Installation through a wooden wall

If you have a wooden house or a bathhouse, you need to know exactly how to bring the chimney through the wall. The main issue is security. But if you approach the matter competently, then even the chimney in the bath through the wall, where there will be a constant drop in high temperatures, will serve reliably and for a long time.

I'll tell you about a few main rules. The pipe that runs through the entire passage must be covered with a material that is resistant to high temperatures. This will help to avoid deformation of the tree - and also to avoid the risk of fire. I advise you to give preference to a vertical system (like, for example, a stove-stove, which is often used to heat garages).

The chimney is fastened to the wall of a wooden house at a distance of 1 meter from each other. For wooden buildings, I advise you to choose long straight pipes: the absence of joints makes the structure stronger, plus it will be much easier to mount to the wall.

The advantages of an outdoor chimney

The use of such a system will provide increased efficiency, and the low weight of the structure will help to avoid installation problems. Although there is an opinion that the chimney in the wall of the house does not look aesthetically pleasing. But it provides fire safety!

A clear plus is that there is no need to make a passage through a wall, ceiling or roof. There is no need to further strengthen the foundation. In addition, a minimum of soot is deposited on the walls: and it is quite possible to remove it yourself.

Materials and tools for installation

If earlier chimneys were made brick, now they choose, for example, a sandwich design. The advantages of this design are as follows:

Long service life (if using stainless steel materials).
The overall weight is low for easy installation.
And the third moment, which is important for me personally: aesthetic appeal.

To install a sandwich chimney, the most important thing is to choose good materials. The integrity of the entire structure depends on how strong and resistant to high temperatures each pipe will be. I advise you to choose the ones made of fire resistant steel and galvanized metal.

In addition, we need clamps, plugs, sealant (necessarily fire-resistant!), Couplings, fastening elements. You will also need adapters, tees, and an elbow that will allow you to change the direction of the structure.

Basic structural elements

I propose to consider the main structural elements using the example of a sandwich chimney:

One of the most important elements is pipes. Tees are also needed - they help to make the branching of the smoke channel and connect the chimney directly to the furnace of the heater.
Knee - needed to make the required bend (45 and 90 degree elbows are most often used).

Support console - in fact, the whole structure will be held on it, attached to the wall or to the floor. Plus clamps - are needed as fastening-fixation to the wall.
Inspection tee - for cleaning pipes from soot.
Condensate collector.
The mouth is the final structural element.

Installation instructions

The starting point should be the heater itself. Simply put, they begin to mount the structure from the bottom up - from the fireplace. First, the pipe is connected to the boiler pipe and secured with a plug.

We carefully insert the inner pipes into one another. Then we put on the outer part.
Reinforce the tees with support brackets. All joints are reinforced with clamps.
I advise you to install a condensate collector on the lower part of the structure to prevent precipitation from entering the pipes.
Sealed couplings are optional - you can do without them. They are needed if the system is operating under high pressure.
When the system is practically assembled, the pipes can be carefully sealed with a protective sealant.

If you doubt that it will be difficult to cope with the installation of the system yourself, it is better to immediately seek help. It is always easier to immediately learn how to do it right than then, taking into account the mistakes made, to redo everything again.

How to correctly lead the chimney through the wall?
How to correctly lead the chimney through the wall? When building a house, it is important to immediately think about how the internal systems will be laid to provide heating, drainage, chimney, etc. Dymovoy

Many questions and problems arise at the moment when it is required to make the passage of the chimney through the wall.

When designing this stage of work, a large number of factors should be taken into account, including:

Wall structure,
Materials used,
Pipe exit point,
Chimney diameter.

Diagram of the pipe outlet from the furnace through the wall

Before figuring out how to lead the chimney through a wooden or concrete wall, you should carefully study the diagram of the chimney outlet from the stove.

Below is a diagram of the output of a double-walled chimney through the wall:

Options for the outlet of the chimney through the wall

Which chimneys can be routed through the wall?

As a building material, black steel or stainless steel alloy is usually used, since this metal is most protected from the damaging effects of hazards and smoke components.

Calculations and installation rules

Installation rules imply careful thought through all stages of future work:

Make sure that the pipe itself will not come into contact with any combustible materials that, under the influence of high temperatures, can start to smolder and release toxic fumes.
With direct external installation of the system, it is necessary to remember about the deflection angles, which will act as active guides for the removal of smoke. The chimney should not be located parallel to the wall of the house, since in this case smoke stasis will occur - it simply will not be removed from the system.
Special tees must be installed in the lower and lateral parts of the pipe, which will be used as a place for installing mechanisms for removing condensate. If this step is not followed, then moisture when lighting a fireplace or stove will simply enter the firebox and extinguish the flame. All this will significantly complicate the kindling process!
The top of the chimney should be raised above the edge of the roof to allow smoke and soot to be blown away in the more rarefied air. Typically, such zones are formed at a distance of 15-25 cm from the roof sheet.

How to install a chimney?

The chimney installation process is divided into several main stages, which consist of:

Preparatory work,
Installation of fasteners,
The actual installation of the chimney.

General stages of work:

It is required to drill a hole in the wall through which the chimney itself will come out using a special tool. Modern models have adjustable nozzles and active cooling systems to eliminate the appearance of cracks on the surface of the facade.

Passage through a concrete / brick wall. Concrete and brick walls are the most convenient material that does not require additional processing. It is recommended to additionally putty the place where the hole was created in order to exclude the possibility of imminent degradation of the room wall.
Walking through a wooden wall

When working with wooden surfaces, carefully protect against overheating. Hot air flows through the pipe, which can inadvertently ignite materials.

Ceramic mixtures, heat-resistant insulating materials and even glass wool are often used as insulating materials. You should not skimp on thermal insulation, as the consequences can be very sad!

The nuances of installing the place of passage of the chimney through a wooden wall

How to lead the pipe from the stove through the wall?
Diagram of the outlet of the chimney through the wall. Step-by-step instructions for installation and assembly work. Which pipes should you use? Advantages and disadvantages of the method.

The need to bring the chimney through the wall arises when installing heating equipment in an already built house. Competent selection of the design, material, chimney trajectory becomes a guarantee of effective heating of the premises. Also, an important component of the flawless operation of the heating system is compliance with the installation algorithm established on the basis of practical experience and regulatory documents.

Functionality and design features

The range of the optimal chimney length is 5 - 10 meters. A value below the minimum value makes it difficult to pull, and a pipe longer than the designated 10 meters will provoke excessive combustion, increasing fuel consumption.

Chimney through the wall to the street

Since the smoothness of the internal planes of the chimney allows to increase its durability, due to the insignificant accumulation of soot, more and more consumers choose a single-layer steel pipe, which successfully replaces brick counterparts. The installation of the chimney is facilitated if its modern structure is used from two steel pipes nested one into the other with an insulating layer of stone wool between them.

This system has proven its practicality, since negative condensation does not form inside, and the outer surfaces receive a slight heating.

Making a chimney outlet through the wall with its further installation outside the house, it is necessary to think over the design of the protective box. It is advisable to make it brick, or use drywall, supplemented with refractory thermal insulation.

Basic installation steps

When installing the flue pipe through the wall, a certain sequence must be followed.

In the place of the wall where the passage of the pipe is planned, there should be no internal communications and wires.
Marking is made on the wall and a hole of the required size is prepared.
The branch pipe is being installed, which is fixed in the prepared hole. The passage in the wall is lined with fire-resistant insulating material, and from above it is closed with a casing or plastered.
The chimney is connected to the heating device by joining a three-piece elbow with a tee using a transition piece.

Chimney tee and its dimensions

In order to change the vector of the chimney to a vertical direction after exiting the wall, a tee is taken, equipped with a cleaning glass, which is fixed with a bracket. Experts do not recommend making a horizontal section installed in a wall passage more than one meter, as this can reduce traction. If conditions do not allow meeting this requirement, then the total length of the chimney is increased to compensate.
It should be borne in mind that a pipe that has a passage through the wall can be directed at an angle, the angle of which is determined by the technical characteristics of the heating device. This circumstance must be paid attention to in order not to degrade the performance of the equipment.
Further, the installation of the remaining part of the pipe continues, going vertically upward along the wall. To keep it securely, a stand is provided below, on which the chimney rests.

Installing chimney mounts

Fasteners designed to fix the chimney to the wall have a step of 60 - 100 cm. After the pipe is brought out to the design height, a cone-shaped element is attached on top to protect it from possible debris. In the gap between the wall and the chimney, a layer of mineral heat insulator, for example, basalt wool, is attached. From above, the chimney is also insulated and sheathed with a casing made of fire-resistant and corrosion-resistant materials.

Features of working with wooden walls

When equipping a chimney in a wooden house, it must be borne in mind that here its installation has some features.

When passing through the wall, you need to additionally protect the pipe by covering it with refractory bricks or asbestos. Such a measure is mandatory in accordance with fire safety standards, and it will also prevent the wood fibers from drying out from heating at the point of contact with the chimney.

Chimney passage through a wooden wall

Starting the installation, chimneys are selected from the range of three-layer products, abandoning the single-layer steel chimney, which is very hot. It is recommended to design a horizontal section of short length.

The vertical part should ideally be level without turns. In the design of the chimney to regulate the intensity of combustion, there should be gates. If all requirements are met, the heating device will function effectively in a safe mode.

If the wooden structure has a siding finish, then a gap to the chimney ≥ 15 cm is provided.This is due to the fact that the temperature range regulated by manufacturers for this finishing material is from minus 50 degrees to plus fifty degrees. The entire passage is protected with a fire-resistant heat-insulating material.

When bringing the chimney through the wall, it is recommended to orient it towards the side of the pediment so as not to make additional holes in the roof. If the heating device in the house is located so that the pipe can be removed only from the side where the roof slope is located, then a support stand may be needed. The chimney is fixed to it using sliding fasteners.

Roof connection to a round pipe

For overhangs\u003e 40 cm, the stand may not be necessary, since the chimney passes through the hole cut in the roof. Here, additional fixation of the pipe is made. It must be borne in mind that in this place there should be no joints of individual elements of the chimney. Above the hole, it is necessary to equip snow-trapping devices. They will protect the chimney from excessive snow pressure that can cause damage.

Vertical and horizontal chimneys

For boilers with forced draft, it is possible to install a simply horizontal pipe, which should be led out through a passage in the wall, similar to chimneys that also have a vertical part.

During the construction process, you can install a convenient design of the chimney in the wall, which is a brick-built shaft. A pipe is placed here, attached to the heating device. This arrangement saves a lot of space.

If the installation of a universal chimney in the wall is carried out in the partition between the rooms, then it becomes an additional source of light comfortable heat. In order to correctly connect the heating equipment, it is necessary to make a fairly spacious passage in the wall of the shaft and install the pipe, joining its horizontal and vertical parts. For insulation, stone wool is usually used.

Chimney installation through the wall
How to equip a chimney through a wall - functionality, design features, main stages of installation, features of working with wooden walls, expert recommendations.

There was also a simpler option - from a metal pipe, but additional difficulties arose with it. And how good it is now that chimney sandwich pipes have appeared.

What are the advantages

The advantages of sandwich pipes include:

light weight,
versatility of use, which allows them to be used with any heating devices,
attractive appearance,
durability and resistance to destructive factors,
reliability in terms of no risk of fire,
due to the smoothness of the inner surface of the pipe, it is possible to rarely clean it from soot,
ease of assembly,
quickly cools the smoke inside the chimney,
suitable for both indoor and outdoor use.

It is clear that the stainless steel from which the pipe is made makes the price quite high, and this is a relative disadvantage. And incorrect installation over time can lead to loss of tightness of the structure. But if the first pays off for a long service life, then the second depends only on who will be engaged in the installation.

It is important to know

Before starting the installation, you should familiarize yourself with some of the subtleties. For example, it is important to know that the larger the area of \u200b\u200bthe structure will be inside the building, the less heat loss will be. When creating a detailed diagram, take into account the fact that flat horizontal sections should be up to one meter. Please note that contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if wooden parts come across on the way of placing the chimney, then the pipe must be removed from them using special steel brackets. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed one meter.

Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or insert with a door through which it will be possible to inspect and clean soot. Of course, installing a chimney sandwich is a serious and responsible business, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly adhere to the step-by-step instructions.

In the finished building, the chimney is being installed through the wall of sandwich pipes. For this, measures are taken to protect the wall from the high temperature of the chimney. It is good if the house is new and it is possible to install the system indoors. But in a wooden house you cannot do without insulating materials. And it doesn't matter what you choose for this purpose: mineral wool or asbestos, but you have to do it. These are the fire safety standards for log cabins.

Already at the stage of buying pipes, you should have a diagram and calculations in your hands. A low chimney will not have draft, and often smoke and soot will return to the interior of the room, and if it is too long, it will accelerate the combustion of fuel and heat will escape into the atmosphere. The optimal system length is considered to be in the range from 5 to 10 meters. In addition to the chimney itself, you will need various tees, pipes, elbows and fasteners.

It is clear that the ideal option is the passage of the pipe through the roof or wall, and it does not matter whether the building project is taken into account. This ensures your safety. But if it didn't work out, then we are looking for a section on the wall where there are no other technological structures nearby. Experts advise to deviate from any communication of at least 40 cm, and if this is not possible, then provide additional isolation.

For different walls, their own installation secrets

If you have walls made of logs, then pre-drill the necessary holes, larger than the pipe itself, in diameter. A special drill will help create a round hole. And now, in order:

The first method: you will need several insulated pipes of a larger diameter than the chimney, inserted alternately into each other,
The second option: we lead the chimney through the wall, laying out the space between them with high-quality thermal insulation.

Walking through a brick or twin block wall does this. First, a marking is made taking into account the appearance of cracks from the holes made. In order to avoid this kind of problems, put a special metal frame inside. The free space near the pipe must be filled with refractory material and shields must be placed to close the passage. The main difficulty is to go through the wall, and then it is quite simple to assemble the structure. Collected? We fix it on the wall.

It is clear that when experienced craftsmen are installing, there is no doubt about safety and reliability, but if you decide to do it yourself, then just remember the responsibility entrusted to you for the lives of those who will live in this house.

Step-by-step installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall
In the foreseeable past, no one could have thought that the installation of chimneys would be within the power of everyone. And it's clear why this is so. Previously, only a stove-maker knew how to correctly create a structure from a brick of the desired shape and size. Such knowledgeable people were greatly appreciated.

When building a house, it is important to immediately think about how the internal systems will be laid to provide heating, drainage, chimney, etc. The smoke duct is laid simultaneously with the construction of walls and ceilings. Very often they think about where it will be located when the house has already been built. In this case, lay the chimney through the wall. How to correctly remove the chimney through the wall is described below.

Basic withdrawal rules

One of the main issues in the construction of a drainage system is how to properly organize the outlet of the chimney through the wall.

Chimney outlet options diagram

The resulting wall passage is carefully insulated. All joints (where the fastening of various elements is located) must be sealed with clamps.

Another important nuance is the correct and reliable fastening of the chimney to the wall. In due time I was prompted in time that it is necessary to fasten at approximately the same intervals. In my opinion, the best distance for installing the mounts is 50-60 cm.

It is imperative to insulate the pipe from the wall. The best option - high quality and affordable - is basalt fiber. The final stage - the “neck” of the chimney is covered with a special cap.

Installation through a wooden wall

The advantages of an outdoor chimney

Materials and tools for installation

If earlier chimneys were made brick, now they choose, for example, a sandwich design. The advantages of this design are as follows:

Long service life (if using stainless steel materials).
The overall weight is low for easy installation.
And the third moment, which is important for me personally: aesthetic appeal.

In addition, we need clamps, plugs, sealant (necessarily fire-resistant!), Couplings, fastening elements. You will also need adapters, tees, and an elbow that will allow you to change the direction of the structure.

Basic structural elements

I propose to consider the main structural elements using the example of a sandwich chimney:

One of the most important elements is pipes. Tees are also needed - they help to make the branching of the smoke channel and connect the chimney directly to the furnace of the heater.
Knee - needed to make the required bend (45 and 90 degree elbows are most often used).

Support console - in fact, the whole structure will be held on it, attached to the wall or to the floor. Plus clamps - are needed as fastening-fixation to the wall.
Inspection tee - for cleaning pipes from soot.
Condensate collector.
The mouth is the final structural element.

Installation instructions

We carefully insert the inner pipes into one another. Then we put on the outer part.
Reinforce the tees with support brackets. All joints are reinforced with clamps.
I advise you to install a condensate collector on the lower part of the structure to prevent precipitation from entering the pipes.
Sealed couplings are optional - you can do without them. They are needed if the system is operating under high pressure.
When the system is practically assembled, the pipes can be carefully sealed with a protective sealant.

Video "How to remove the fireplace chimney?"

The video clearly demonstrates how to lead a chimney through a wall using sandwich pipes.

The creation of a chimney system in a wooden house is a more responsible and serious occupation than the installation of chimneys in brick buildings. Too much needs to be thought over in order for the system to function not only correctly (have good traction), but also to be as tight and safe as possible so that there is no risk of fire.

There are several options to solve this problem. Below we will consider the most basic of them.

Which chimney is suitable for a wooden building?

For wooden buildings, you can use any type of chimney: there are no restrictions in this regard, the only nuance is only the highest quality implementation. The most popular are stainless steel, ceramic and brick chimneys.

Immediately you need to make a reservation about a brick chimney: such pipes are highly susceptible to damage from condensation. Therefore, it is categorically not recommended to install them without preliminary planning of the insulation system, without condensate drainage and without a sleeve inside. In addition, brick pipes are the fastest to clog up: due to the porous surface of the brick itself and the mortar between it, as well as due to gaps between the bricks. As a result, such systems need to be cleaned more often, and in addition, it is more difficult to do (than to clean a chimney with a smooth wall surface).

If you need to save money, then the cheapest and fastest to install is stainless steel. Steel pipes are much less exposed to moisture, become dirty more slowly (because their walls are smooth) and are easier to clean.

Ceramics are used less often: it is both more expensive and more difficult to install. However, ceramic pipes can last longer than stainless pipes if used properly.

The best option if a wooden house is being built for a long stay (that is, if it is a cottage, and not a summer cottage): a brick mine with a stainless sleeve inside. Such a chimney will stand for a long time, and, if necessary, can be easily repaired (the inner sleeve is simply replaced with a new one).

Where to mount: inside or outside?

It is important to think over exactly where the chimney will be located. In most cases, it is recommended to carry it outside, but installation inside is also possible.

If you make a chimney from the inside, then if you need to install or repair it, the amount of work will be much larger, and it will be more difficult to complete them. In this case, you will have to disrupt the interior decoration of the premises. In addition, such systems are more difficult to follow as they are invisible to the eye (at least most of them).

It is better to draw the chimney outlet outside, because:

the area inside the house is not occupied (even if it is a small space, but it is freed up);
if the chimney has to be repaired or replaced, it will not be necessary to disassemble the wall inside the house (that is, it will not be necessary to move the furniture and then redo the finish);
no need to make a passage through the ceilings and the roof;
a pipe located outside is much easier and easier to follow: if any problems appear, they can be noticed much earlier than if it was in the wall.

Of the minuses: the pipe will have to be insulated along its entire length (while the internal chimneys must be insulated only in cold areas: in an unheated attic, above and below the roof). However, this is still easier to do than to mount a mine inside the house.

Basic rules and regulations for installation

There are regulations and rules for the installation of chimneys in wooden buildings. It is imperative to comply with them, otherwise serious problems may arise: fire of wooden materials, quick disabling of the chimney, depressurization is possible.

Basic rules and regulations:

When passing through wooden elements, it is imperative to maintain a minimum distance of 38 centimeters from the internal chimney to flammable structures (such as wood or some kind of fabric elements, for example). This space should be completely filled with non-burning elements.
If the pipe is laid through wooden elements specially protected from fire, then the distance between them and the chimney can be reduced to 25 centimeters ( but not recommended).
It is necessary to properly seal the structure, conduct a full analysis of its condition before putting it into operation. Any cracks and cracks, even the smallest ones, need to be repaired - they can cause depressurization in the future.
It is recommended to plug the smoke channel in advance at the stage of building the house, which will allow you to insure against possible depressurization and fire.

Stages of installing a brick chimney

A brick chimney is most often used for stoves, in cottages, in a bathhouse, in small private houses, sometimes in the country. The installation scheme is full of nuances, so first you need to make out a few important points:

the laying must be done with bandaging, carried out on a lime or cement-lime mortar (it will be more expensive), and when laying above the roof, you need to use a cement mortar;
for work you need to use a solid red brick;
the seam should be no more than 10 millimeters, internal plastering is prohibited;
holes must be made in the side walls to improve air circulation;
indented wooden floors must be covered with a number of bricks or tiles;
if the entire structure has a large mass, it is imperative to build a foundation.

Remember that masonry is most susceptible to degradation due to condensation. Also remember that due to the roughness of the brick, soot will accumulate inside the chimney much faster and will need to be cleaned more often.

Carrying out the chimney through the roof (if you are building a mine inside the house) is performed according to the following rules:

when leading the pipe through the ceiling, make sure that the distance between the outer part of the pipe and the wooden rafters is at least 130 mm (all this space should be filled with basalt or stone wool, made without organic binder);
when installing a roof made of potentially flammable materials, it is necessary to increase the distance to 260 millimeters;
at the point of exit, it is necessary to make a covering with the help of non-combustible materials (you can use slate, but roofing steel is better) - at a distance of at least 500 mm from the pipe, followed by fitting under the otter.

Regulation for the height of the pipe above the roof:

If it is located near the ridge of a pitched or flat roof, the height may be less than 500 mm.
If it is located above the roof ridge when the length of the chimney axis outlet is less than 1500 mm from the parapet or ridge, the distance should be at least 500 mm.
Not lower than an abstract line that goes down at an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge to the horizon, when the chimney axis extends more than 3000 mm from the ridge.

Stages of installing a stainless steel chimney

Metal chimneys have a huge number of advantages over brick ones, therefore they have been installed much more recently. It is worth noting their most important advantages:

extremely convenient and quick installation (in comparison with brick and ceramic);
it is not required to prepare the foundation, since the entire structure is lightweight;
the inner surfaces of the metal chimney are smooth, so soot does not accumulate on them and, as a result, the draft does not decrease;
the inner channel of the chimney is made of acid-resistant stainless steel, which ensures long-term operation and safety of use.

It is important to select a stainless steel chimney based on the table of its thickness relative to the temperature of the flue gases. The regulations are as follows:

Thickness from 0.5 mm - for gas, pellet and diesel boilers.
Thickness from 0.8 to 1 mm - on stoves (including baths) and fireplaces.
Thickness from 1 mm - for coal-fired boilers.

If the chimney is to be installed for coal-fired stoves, the thickness of the insulating layer should be no more than 100 millimeters. If we are talking about an automated boiler, then the thickness should not exceed 50 millimeters.

A few nuances about the roof passage:

the distance from the chimney to the tree should be no less than 250 millimeters on both sides, the opening of the chimney and the chimney on top is closed with a roof;
on top, the rat must be brought under slate or shingles;
on top of the roof, you need to mount a foxhole with a clamping clamp (to protect from precipitation);
the free space between the chimney and the rafters must be filled with basalt wool and the bottom must be covered with a metal reflector.

Stages of installing a ceramic chimney

Installation of a ceramic chimney is easier than in the case of a brick one, but a little more difficult than with a stainless steel.

Installation rules:

Considering that the ceramic flue gas vent is a modular system, its installation is carried out from prefabricated segments of full factory readiness. That is, in fact, you just need to assemble the pipe from bottom to top, and attach it to the wall.
The inner tube must be made of high temperature and acid resistant ceramic.
Given the large mass of the structure, you need to prepare the foundation for it (this is the main requirement).

This type has been very popular in recent years, including due to its high resistance to negative environmental factors.

Installation of a chimney in a wooden house (video)

The chimney is an important part of the correct arrangement of a stove, solid fuel or gas boiler. The efficiency of the heating device and the fire safety of the heating system depend on its correct design and installation.

Chimneys in a house, especially a wooden one, or in a bathhouse must be made of various refractory materials. Brick chimneys are resistant to high temperatures, strength and aesthetics, but at the same time, the porous and inhomogeneous structure of the brick contributes to the accumulation of moisture, the deposition of combustion products - soot and soot. As a result, the lumen of the chimney becomes overgrown, the draft deteriorates, and the operation of the furnace becomes unsafe. It is especially undesirable to use brick chimneys in systems for removing smoke from solid fuel, including pellet, boilers with a closed combustion chamber.

Ferrous metal pipes are not recommended for use in wooden houses and saunas, as well as when installing a gas or solid fuel boiler: they get very hot and quickly burn out, which can lead to a fire. Sometimes chimneys from such a pipe are mounted in brick garages and other utility rooms, but even there they are ineffective, as they are prone to corrosion and condensation.

The most successful solution is insulated sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel and ceramics. The round cross-section of the pipes facilitates the passage of smoke and provides good draft. Less soot settles on the smooth inner surface. Due to the insulation, the formation of condensation is excluded. Thanks to the modular system, their installation is easy to do by hand. Structurally, sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel and ceramics are somewhat different.

Ceramic sandwich chimney is a system of modules, each of which consists of an internal ceramic pipe element and a hollow foam block. For thermal insulation, they are separated by a layer of basalt insulation. Modules are delivered disassembled; assembly is performed on site using special glue and sealant. For the installation of a ceramic chimney, a foundation is required due to their significant weight.

Stainless steel sandwich chimneys sold as ready-made modules. They are two pipes of different diameters, nested one inside the other, and separated by a layer of insulation. The inner pipe is made of stainless steel, the outer one can be either stainless steel or galvanized sheet. They are collected much faster than ceramic ones. In addition, due to its low weight, a foundation is not needed for a stainless steel chimney.

In terms of fire resistance, ceramic chimneys are superior to all others, they can withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees Celsius for a long time, some models are equipped with ventilation systems. The service life of such chimneys is at least 50 years. But the price of ceramic chimneys is high, so their installation is advisable only in residential buildings, cottages and other capital buildings.

General installation rules

To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney from the grate of the heating unit must be at least 5 meters.
The chimney located at the ridge should rise 0.5 m above it; in other cases, its height is determined according to the diagram below.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the buildings standing next to the house or bathhouse, the outlet of the chimney should be 1.5 m higher than their roof.
If, as a result of calculations, the height of the chimney above the roof turns out to be more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to foresee in advance its fastening to the braces to rigid structural elements.
If the roof material is combustible - ondulin, roofing felt, soft roof, then the top of the chimney must be equipped with a spark arrester - a special module with a 5x5 mm mesh.
The smoke duct must not be narrowed, for example, modules with an inner diameter of 110 mm must not be installed for a furnace with a 120 mm smoke outlet. Broadening is allowed, and special adapters must be used.
The length of the horizontal sections should not exceed 1 m. If the vertical pipe is located at a greater distance from the heater, 45 degree bends must be used.
Bends, tees and other adapters of sandwich flue ducts must be unloaded - installed so that they do not carry the weight of the superior structure. For this, support platforms are used.
All module joints must be accessible for inspection. They should not be located in overlapping areas. To meet this requirement, you need to select the length of the straight sections of the chimney.

Correct assembly sequence

First, the outlet of the boiler or furnace is connected to the lower element of the chimney - a single-layer non-insulated pipe. It can consist of several modules and can be vertical, horizontal or bend 45 or 90 degrees.
An adapter is used to switch to an insulated pipe. It is put on a non-insulated pipe, lubricating the joint with a special sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 1300 degrees Celsius.

Further do-it-yourself assembly is carried out from insulated elements. They are inserted into each other so that the upper part is put on the lower one. The top can be identified by the edge of the pipe - it is wavy, which makes joining easier. With such an installation, the inner channel is connected "by smoke", that is, the direction of the joints is located so as not to interfere with the smoke flows inside. All elements are connected to a heat-resistant sealant.

At the place of installation, the smoke evacuation systems are divided into internal, passing through the floors and the roof, and external, located at the outer wall of the building. In this case, the outlet of the chimney is made through the wall of the house or bath.

The part passing through the heated rooms can be made from a single stainless pipe - its surface heats up strongly when the fuel burns and additionally gives off heat. When passing through an unheated attic in a house or a bathhouse or outside, the chimney needs mandatory insulation, therefore sandwich modules are used for this part of it.
A direct chimney can be supported directly on a heating device - stove, pellet boiler. In the presence of bends, bends, it is mandatory to install support sites at the level of the floors, at least after 5 meters.

For outdoor installation, the system is secured using wall mounts - brackets with clamps. They are sold complete with chimneys. The lower part of the chimney is supported on a bracket.
The pipe is equipped with cleanings in places that are easy to access. They are a tee with a plug on the outlet. If necessary, the plug is removed and the smoke channel is inspected and cleaned from soot. A plug with a condensate receiver is installed at the bottom of the pipe.

The greatest attention should be paid to passages through walls, ceilings and roofs. For them, special modules are used: "passage through the ceiling" and "passage through the roof". The top of the pipe is equipped with an umbrella to ensure fire safety, improve traction and ventilation.

In a wooden house

Before you install your own smoke removal system, you need to study the fire safety requirements for chimneys installed in a wooden house.

the distance from the non-insulated chimney to any combustible surfaces must be at least 25 cm horizontally and 80 cm vertically;
chimney passages through the roofs must be performed using pass-through nodes - metal boxes filled with heat-insulating material, usually basalt mats;
in the case of connecting several smoke channels into one, it is advisable to place the vertical chimney in a separate box made of non-combustible material, for example, foam concrete.

An audit of all sections of a stainless steel chimney in a wooden house must be carried out at least twice a year! If external damage, discoloration of steel, rust is detected, it is necessary to make sure that the inner pipe is intact - it could burn out!

You can get acquainted with simple designs of smokehouses for cold smoking and methods of their manufacture at home and field conditions.
A detailed description of all stages of making a smoke generator for cold smoking is described in the following article:

In the bath

The bathhouse is a place of increased fire hazard. Heating of wooden surfaces in the bath reaches 90-100 degrees, and the temperature at which the wood begins to char is 120-150 degrees with prolonged exposure. Wood elements near the chimney heat up the most. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly observe the fire separation distances.

The sequence of installation of passages through the wall and ceiling in the bath, which can be used in the house, is shown in the video.

Since most of the heat loss in a wooden bath occurs through the ceilings, the pipe is often taken out through the walls.

Chimney for buleryan

Connecting buleryan to a chimney with your own hands does not generally differ from other types of heating devices, but it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the combustion mode in this type of furnaces.

Due to the efficient afterburning of flue gases, their temperature at the exit from the furnace does not exceed 200 degrees. As it moves along the pipe, it decreases even more, the pipe warms up weakly, which can cause condensation on the pipe walls. When soot settles on wet walls, carbonic acid is formed, which negatively affects materials such as brick, ferrous metal, and asbestos.

the recommended height is from 3 to 4 meters;
the length of the horizontal section is strictly no more than 1 meter;
the material of the inner surface must be resistant to acid - sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel or ceramics;
it is recommended to insulate all sections of the chimney except for the exit from the buleryan;
the chimney must be equipped with a condensate collector and cleanings.

The efficient work of buleryan is possible only with access to the firebox of fresh air, therefore, it is advisable to use a modular ceramic chimney with ventilation channels, its installation can be done by hand thanks to the prefabricated modular structure.

For solid fuel boilers

Conventional solid fuel boilers, fired by coal, wood or with a pellet burner, are characterized by high flue gas temperatures. Pyrolysis boilers with a long-term combustion mode more efficiently burn the combustion products contained in the smoke, therefore they have a lower temperature at the outlet, and, like Buleryan, are prone to increased condensation.

boiler type;
location and diameter of the flue pipe;
flue gas temperature;
recommended chimney height for good draft;
the need for additional ventilation.

You should also inspect the structure of the boiler and evaluate the difficulty of cleaning the flue pipe. If it is difficult to access it from inside the boiler, it is necessary to provide a revision tee in the immediate vicinity of the boiler outlet.

If the pellet boiler is equipped with a closed combustion chamber, it will be more expedient to install a coaxial chimney with a ventilation system.

For gas boilers

Gas boilers belong to heating units with a closed combustion chamber, so the installation of a coaxial chimney will be most effective for them. It is a structure consisting of two pipes of different diameters, while the smaller pipe is inserted into the larger one and fixed in it with jumpers.

The flue gases from the combustion chamber of the gas boiler to the street are discharged along the inner contour of the coaxial pipe, and air moves in the opposite direction along the gap between the chimney pipes. It enters the combustion chamber and maintains combustion, while air is not taken from the room where the gas boiler is installed, which significantly improves the microclimate in the house and excludes the installation of an additional ventilation system.

Air is a good heat insulator, so the outer surface of the coaxial chimney does not heat up significantly. In this case, the air in the ventilation duct is heated, and it enters the combustion chamber of the gas boiler already warm, which increases the efficiency of the boiler.

The installation of a coaxial chimney for a gas boiler is most often done through a wall, less often through ceilings and a roof, as this increases costs. Safety distances from building structures when installing a coaxial chimney are shown in the picture.

Video about installing a coaxial chimney

When installing a conventional sandwich chimney on a gas boiler, it is necessary to make an additional supply ventilation system with your own hands, since the oxygen required for combustion will be absorbed from the air.

Correct installation of the chimney is a guarantee of a long and safe operation of the heating system both in the house and in the bath. It is possible to make it with your own hands, but if there is even the slightest doubt in your abilities, it is better to entrust this task to professionals. They will make calculations, help you choose the best type of chimney, install a gas evacuation and ventilation system, and the owner of the house will only have to independently audit and clean the chimney.

In recent years, more and more chimneys are made from sandwich pipes. The matter is in the relatively low price, long service life, quite attractive appearance. It is also important that independent installation of a sandwich chimney is possible. This is not a very simple matter - there are many nuances, but you can do it yourself, without involving specialists.

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they?

The sandwich pipe was named so for its multilayer structure: there are two layers of metal, between which there is a heater. This structure solves many of the problems that were inherent in a simple chimney from a metal pipe. Firstly, the insulation layer does not allow the outer metal casing to heat up to critical temperatures; no hard radiation emanates from the pipe. The room creates more comfortable conditions. Secondly, the same insulation significantly reduces the amount of condensate that forms when the pipe is brought out into the street. Thirdly, since the outer casing no longer has such a high temperature, it is easier to make the passage of the chimney through the roof or wall.

A sandwich pipe is two metal cylinders, the space between which is filled with insulation

What materials are they made of

Sandwich pipes are made of galvanized or stainless steel. Galvanized sandwich pipes for chimneys are rarely used. Is that for the removal of combustion products of a low-power wall-mounted gas boiler or gas water heater. Can be used for insulated ventilation. For more serious heating devices, they are unsuitable - at high temperatures, zinc burns out, steel quickly rusts, and the chimney becomes unusable.

Sandwich pipes for high-temperature flue gases are made of stainless steel. Moreover, stainless steel is used in different grades - from alloys with a small content of alloying metals to high-alloy heat-resistant ones. The thickness of the metal can also be different - from 0.5 to 1 mm, as well as the thickness of the insulation - 30 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. It is clear that the scope of application will be different, and so will the price.

The main steel grades that are used in the production of sandwich pipes for chimneys, their purpose and main characteristics are summarized in the table.

Stainless steel grade	Main characteristics	Application area
AISI 430	Possesses sufficient resistance to weathering, but does not tolerate high temperatures	Used for outer shells of sandwich pipes
AISI 439	Contains titanium, which increases resistance to high temperatures and aggressive environments.	Suitable for gas boilers, low-power solid fuel units (up to 30 kW)
AISI 316	Alloying additives - nickel and molybdenum - give high resistance to acids, increased heat resistance.	Optimal for all types of gas boilers.
AISI 304	Cheaper version of AISI 316 with less alloying	Economy option for gas boilers of medium and low power
AISI 316I, AISI 321	Withstand temperatures up to 850 ° C	Can be used for heating solid fuel stoves
AISI 310S	Increased heat resistance - up to 1000 ° C (and price)	For bath and pyrolysis solid fuel stoves

As you can see from the table, different grades of stainless steel have different purposes. Cheaper alloys are used for the outer casing, while the more heat-resistant and expensive alloys are used for the inner. This is necessary to reduce the cost of production, and high resistance to temperatures outside the chimney is not needed. There are even more budget options - the outer casing is made of galvanized steel. Outwardly, these products are inferior to stainless, but they serve normally (with normal insulation and its thickness).

Insulation and its thickness

There is insulation between the two layers of metal. Most often it is stone wool. The thickness of the insulation is from 30 to 100 mm:

With thermal insulation 30 mm thick, the flue gas temperature should not exceed 250 ° C. Such temperatures are given only by gas boilers of small and medium power.
Insulation layer of 50 mm allows to withstand temperatures up to 400 ° C. Scope - any gas and liquid fuel boilers, wood-burning, subject to the output of the chimney to the street (through the wall).
A 100 mm layer of rock wool can withstand temperatures up to 850 ° C. Such a sandwich chimney can be installed on any type of solid fuel boiler, in fireplaces and hearths.

In addition to the thickness of the insulation, you need to pay attention to its brand, or rather, to the temperature range in which it can work. Not every stone wool can withstand heating up to 850 ° C, but only some special grades. If you need a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, you will also have to take into account the heat resistance of the insulation.

Connection types

The elements of the chimney sandwich can be interconnected in two ways: with sockets and corrugated edges. A socket connection assumes a slightly wider chamfer on one side. With this design, a high degree of chimney tightness is achieved. This type of sandwich pipe is well suited for gas boilers, where it is important to prevent leakage. There is also a minus: installation requires high precision.

The corrugated edge of the sandwich makes it easy to assemble the chimney. The disadvantage of such a solution is that a significant amount of high-temperature sealant is required to ensure tightness, and it costs a lot.

Also pay attention to the longitudinal seam. It can be welded or folded. If the seam is welded, it must be made in an argon protective environment (so as not to burn out alloyed metals). It is this type of connection that is required for solid fuel boilers, sauna stoves and fireplaces. For all others, a folded joint can also be used.

Installation methods

There are two ways to lead the chimney outside. The first is to pass the pipe through the wall, and then raise it along the outer wall to the required level. The second is upward through the ceiling and roof. Both are imperfect.

If the chimney is outside, due to the temperature difference, condensation is actively formed in it. Therefore, in the lower part of the chimney, a tee with a condensate collector (glass) and a cleaning hole must be installed. This unit allows maintenance of the chimney without much difficulty: the glass is unscrewed, the condensate is drained. Also, soot periodically gets lost without any problems - a special brush for the chimney can be run through the cleaning hole.

If the chimney is to be removed through the roof, several passages will be needed - according to the number of overlaps. If the house is one-story, you will need one pass through the ceiling and the other through the roof. You will also need a master flash or an apron for a round galvanized pipe.

Installation of a sandwich chimney on the street requires only one pass-through unit - through the wall. But it will be necessary to fix it to the wall every 1.5-2 meters. If the walls of the building are flammable (a wooden house or a frame), the walls must be protected by a non-combustible screen.

Smoke or condensation

As mentioned above, one side of the sandwich pipe is slightly wider, the other is slightly narrower. Due to this difference in diameter, the modules are connected to one another. If the wider end turns upward (in the figure to the right), the assembly is called "over condensate". With this method of installation, drops of condensate flow down unhindered. The disadvantage of this method is that with insufficient sealing of the joints, smoke can seep into microcracks. This type of installation of a sandwich chimney is used when leading a pipe through a wall. This is where the free drainage of condensate is required, and small smoke leaks are not scary - they are not critical on the street.

If the narrower edge is turned upwards, the second element is put on top of it with the wider part. This type of assembly is called "smoke" (in the picture on the left). In this case, condensate flowing down the wall can seep through an insufficiently sealed joint. But the smoke passes freely. This type of assembly is used if the pipe goes indoors (out through the roof). Condensate flowing through the pipe, of course, spoils the appearance, but it is not as dangerous as flue gases leaking into the room. Moreover, with good sealing of the joints, condensation will not leak.

In order for the connection of the chimney sandwich modules to be reliable, each of them is usually coated with a heat-resistant sealant, and then tightened with a clamp.

Options

Sandwich chimneys are good because they have a modular structure, which allows you to assemble any configuration, with any parameters. Before going to the store, you need to know the required diameter of the chimney, the height of the pipe and those additional elements that will be needed.

Chimney diameter

When choosing the diameter of the sandwich pipe, a simple rule applies: it cannot be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet. If your outlet is 120 mm, then the inner diameter of the sandwich should be the same or larger. It may be wider, but less - definitely not, and the narrowing cannot be done along the entire length of the chimney. If the chimney is slightly wider than the branch pipe, an adapter is purchased, which is placed directly on the boiler outlet, and then the working size is already going.

If there is no boiler yet, but you know its capacity, you can choose a chimney based on these data:

boiler power up to 3.5 kW - sandwich inner diameter - 80 mm;
from 3.5 kW to 5.2 kW - not less than 95 mm;
more than 5.2 kW - 110 mm and more.

But it is better to buy (or at least choose) a boiler, and then decide on the chimney, because many manufacturers insure themselves by making the outlet pipes wider to improve draft.

Pipe height

The height of the chimney above the roof surface depends on the place of its outlet, but at the same time its minimum height should be 5 m. That is, if the height of the house is small, in any case bring the chimney to a height of 5 meters. If the height of the house is higher than 5 m, then the pipe should rise above the roofing material to the following height:

Should rise 50 cm above the ridge if it comes out at a distance of less than 150 cm from it.
If the distance from the ridge to the pipe is more than 300 cm, then the pipe may be lower than the level of the ridge, but the angle should be no more than 10 ° (see figure).
If the chimney exits at a distance of 150 to 300 cm from the ridge, its height can be at the same level with the ridge element or higher.

Under these conditions, normal thrust is ensured. The smoke will go off normally regardless of the weather conditions. To prevent foliage from entering the chimney, they put special umbrellas, weather vane, and in windy places - deflectors, which further improve traction.

If it is impossible to bring the pipe to such a height, they put a smoke exhauster - a forced draft is obtained. The fan will not be needed all the time, but in some conditions, when natural draft is not enough, forced draft saves the day.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall

There are two ways to run the chimney through the wall. The first option (in the photo on the left) is to raise it in the room closer to the ceiling, and bring it out there. The second is to draw a conclusion at the level of the flue pipe from the boiler. In this case, almost the entire chimney is outside.

The second option is preferable - it has only one knee, which means, under equal conditions, the traction will be better. Also, with this structure, there is less chance of the formation of soot plugs.

If the outlet of the chimney is not at the back of the stove, but at the top, the installation scheme changes slightly - a 90 ° elbow is added, then a straight section for passing through the wall, and then as in other schemes.

The stove itself is placed on a non-combustible base, the wall behind the stove is closed with a non-combustible screen. The easiest way is to fix a sheet of metal on the wall. It can be mounted on ceramic insulators 2.5-3 cm in height. There will be an air gap between the sheet of metal and the wall, so the wall is safe. The second option is to put heat-insulating material under the metal - for example, mineral wool cardboard. Another option is an asbestos sheet (as in the photo).

A hole is made in the wall. Its dimensions are determined by SNiP - the distance from the pipe to non-combustible walls must be at least 250 mm from all sides, and 450 mm to combustible walls. It turns out to be a solid hole, especially when it comes to walls made of combustible materials. There is one point with which you can reduce the size of the hole for the sandwich passage: make the dimensions according to the norms of non-combustible walls and sheathe the opening with non-combustible material.

The opening can be round or square, as long as the fire safety standards are maintained. It is easier to make and sheathe square holes, therefore they are more often made.

A pass-through unit is inserted into this hole - a box made of non-combustible material. A sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into it, fixed in the center. All gaps are filled with heat-resistant insulation, the hole is closed on both sides with non-combustible material. This is usually a sheet of metal.

One important point: the chimney must be designed so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and maintainable.

Next, you need to make or install a ready-made support bracket that will hold the entire weight of the pipe. The design may differ in details, but the main idea is the same - a support platform, which, using stops, transfers weight to the wall.

Homemade support platform for an outdoor chimney sandwich from corners 50 * 50 mm and 40 * 40 mm

A similar structure can be welded from a profile pipe of a small section 25 * 25 mm or 25 * 40 mm.

As you can see, a tee is connected to the pipe that goes through the wall. In the lower part there is a removable glass in which condensate accumulates. Some models have a fitting at the bottom with a small tap. This is even more convenient - you do not need to remove the glass, you can connect a hose to the fitting, bring it into some container (it is very toxic, so you don’t need to drain it near the house) and drain it by simply turning the tap.

Then the tube is brought to the required level. Since in this case the distance to the ridge will clearly be more than 3 m, it is possible for the height of the chimney to be slightly lower than the ridge - not lower than 10 ° in relation to the horizontal line drawn from the level of the ridge.

But since this house is located in a lowland, to provide traction, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge. It was fastened to the wall with stainless steel clamps, with a step of a little more than a meter. On the roof, there are braces made of a steel rod with a diameter of 6 mm. There are special clamps "with ears" to install the stretch marks, to which the stretch marks are attached.

Fastening of braces to the chimney from a sandwich tube

Another important point that many people forget: at the place where the pipe is installed, a section of the snow guard must be installed on the roof, otherwise, in the spring, the pipe can be demolished with snow (if the pipe is not brought out towards the pediment, as in the photo).

How to install a chimney through the roof

When removing the chimney from the sandwich pipes through the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the floor beams and rafter legs on the roof. It is necessary to guess so that the pipe passes between these elements. The minimum distance from the outer wall of the pipe to the fuel element must be at least 13 cm, and this is provided that the fuel element is protected by a heater. To fulfill this requirement, it is often necessary to move the pipe. Do this using two 45 ° angles.

Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins with a metal pipe without insulation. In the photo above, it is black. After it, an adapter is placed on the sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.

A hole is cut in the ceiling, which meets fire standards - 250 mm from the edge of the pipe, if the ceiling is protected by thermal insulation material. Having cut the hole, its edges are closed with non-combustible heat-insulating material. Minerite is best suited for this (nailed or fastened with self-tapping screws on wood).

Gray material around the perimeter of the hole - minerite

A chimney sandwich pipe is inserted into the resulting box. It should be directed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. It cannot be rigidly fixed, you can only give direction by installing several planks that will hold it, but it can move up / down without difficulty. This is necessary, since when heated, its length increases significantly.

The remaining space is filled with basalt wool (check the temperature range). Another option is to pour expanded clay, granulated foamed glass. Previously, sand was still poured, but sooner or later, it all woke up through the cracks, so now this option is unpopular. On the front side, all this "beauty" is covered with a sheet of stainless steel, under which (between it and the ceiling) non-combustible material is placed. Previously, it was an asbestos sheet, but since asbestos is recognized as a carcinogen, they began to use mineral wool cardboard.

There is another option. Trim the edges of the hole with mineral wool, and then insert the finished stainless steel ceiling-pass assembly. It immediately contains both a box and a decorative stainless steel screen.

Having brought the pipe to the attic, they make a hole in the roofing pie. All films in the place of passage (vapor barrier and waterproofing) are cut crosswise. The resulting triangles are wrapped and secured with staples from a stapler. So the damage is minimal. The exposed crate is cut so that the pipe is at least 13 cm.

How to bring the chimney through the roof - the passage of the ceiling and roof

In the right photo above, the passage through the roof is incorrect - the distance between the pipe and the boards is too small. In an amicable way, you need to cut them off according to the standard, beat them with the same minerite. The result should be something similar to the following photo.

Master-flash for a sandwich chimney - a rubber cap with a flexible "skirt"

The rubber-pipe joint is sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. Also, the roof surface under the "skirt" is coated with a sealant.

Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.

Stove passage through the wall. What is the best chimney for a wooden house? Which chimney can be taken out through the wall

Basic withdrawal rules

Installation through a wooden wall

The advantages of an outdoor chimney

Materials and tools for installation

Basic structural elements

Installation instructions

Diagram of the pipe outlet from the furnace through the wall

Which chimneys can be routed through the wall?

Calculations and installation rules

How to install a chimney?

Functionality and design features

Basic installation steps

Features of working with wooden walls

What are the advantages

It is important to know

For different walls, their own installation secrets

Basic withdrawal rules

Installation through a wooden wall

The advantages of an outdoor chimney

Materials and tools for installation

Basic structural elements

Installation instructions

Video "How to remove the fireplace chimney?"

Which chimney is suitable for a wooden building?

Where to mount: inside or outside?

Basic rules and regulations for installation

Stages of installing a brick chimney

Stages of installing a stainless steel chimney

Stages of installing a ceramic chimney

Installation of a chimney in a wooden house (video)

General installation rules

Correct assembly sequence

In a wooden house

In the bath

Chimney for buleryan

For solid fuel boilers

For gas boilers

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they?

What materials are they made of

Insulation and its thickness

Connection types

Installation methods

Smoke or condensation

Options

Chimney diameter

Pipe height

Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall

How to install a chimney through the roof

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