Installation of the furnace door of a brick oven. How to install the furnace door of the stove How to strengthen the door in the stove

Installing new plumbing fixtures and fittings This section is dedicated to installing new plumbing fixtures and replacing old fixtures with new ones. Once you have finished the rough plumbing work and done fine finishing walls, you can proceed to

Installing household appliances and devices Many household appliances require appropriate plumbing and electrical connections to connect. Such appliances and devices include dishwashers, washing machines,

Replacing the cutter To remove the cutter, insert the supplied finger punch into the hole above the cutter chuck. Followed by, firmly holding the finger punch (Fig. 14.18), loosen the lower nut by turning it to the left with the key supplied. Milling cutter

Very often, the stove is shifted only because the furnace door fell out of it. Doors usually fall out because they are secured with weak aluminum wire or stranded wires. Sometimes metal plates are laid above the doorway and a wire is screwed from the door behind them. Plates and wire from the fire are burned, then deformed, come out of the masonry, and the door falls out.

Preparing for installation

Before installing the oven doors, you need to check if they open easily. There are tight doors that are developed over time. I have never seen asbestos gaskets near the doors in any village stove in Russia. In modern conditions, asbestos was borrowed from industrial furnaces, in which it is really needed in order for the furnaces to withstand high temperatures.
In room stoves, the temperature is not so high, and the door frame is far from the fire and therefore its expansion is insignificant. I even secured the door with a wire for coal fuel and did without asbestos. Despite the fact that part of the wire near the door is exposed, the door is quite strong. For greater security, you can drill holes in the door frame closer to its edge. There are various ways to secure the firebox doors.

Most the best way to avoid the door falling out - when installing from above and below, rivet metal plates with a thickness of 2-3 mm with extended ends to it, and then push them into the brick.
Before installing the stove door, you need to put three bricks dry in front of it on the grate. A door with attached plates or wire is placed on the mortar, the plates or ends of the wire are spread on the walls, and the other ends are placed on three bricks and pressed from above? one or two bricks. The accuracy of the installation of the door is checked by a plumb line. As a rule, they use a soft, evenly elongated wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm, about 1 m long, annealed in an oven or on a fire.Pull it out easily by putting the ends, and longer than necessary, by the post or in the bracket, pulling and simultaneously pressing her to them, then one, then the other end. Having inserted the door frame into the hole, fold the wire in half and twist it tightly so that there are no rings. If they still work out, especially near the door, they must be flattened with a hammer along the entire length of the wire. In a taut position, pressing the door to the masonry, the wire is inserted into a small cleavage (hole) 1 made with a hammer in the edge of the brick (depth 5-10 mm) closer to the outer edge so that it does not loosen and slip. In a taut position, the wire with a pick is pressed tightly against the bricks at corner 2 along all rows and pressed with a brick on the mortar, and then intertwined with the masonry. You can also direct it up. There should be a little mortar near the door, the seam needs to be made thinner, so it will hold more firmly. The door is not afraid of thermal expansion, with such a laying it will stand for more than a hundred years. If, when laying on top of the door, the wire interferes, then in this place the brick must be hewn out.

It is good to block the doorway with two whole bricks so that they are connected in the center of the door. Often, the solution falls out over the doors and the vertical seam is visible. To eliminate this, it is enough to make notches-holes in both bricks in the places where the mortar is laid with the angle of the hammer. Then, when the solution is compressed in the seams, these pits will keep the solution in the seam and it will not fall out. Doors with holes are shown here. You can make them yourself by simply drilling holes in a regular door.
Very often furnace doors fail in stoves, because they have a bad constipation (latch), which sometimes falls off after a few days. Even with the correct plumb line installation, the door starts to open randomly without a lock. This happens because there is a heavy handle on the door, and it, like a counterweight, helps to open the door. To prevent the door from opening, all sorts of foreign objects are leaning against it - a poker or a log, which begins to smoke and often catches fire. The industry, apparently, is not able to invent a reliable lock for the fire door.
I propose an easy way to get rid of the arbitrary opening of the doors, at least in those stoves in which smoke is blown out of the firebox by the wind. This method will help forgetful owners to lock the door. If the chimney is laid incorrectly on top of the roof, the wind enters the chimney and knocks smoke out of the firebox. In a strong wind, the door opens and fire is knocked out along with the smoke, and sometimes burning coals fly to the floor. Therefore, if smoke comes out of the firebox, it is impossible to leave it unattended. Also, be sure to put a sheet of iron on the floor. To prevent the door from opening, you can make a hook.

When installing the door in the masonry, it must be kept closed, but not locked. Then you will see how it will open itself in a certain position. In order to prevent the door from opening when the lock is open, the top of the door must be deflected from the vertical position towards the firebox by 2-3 mm. In this case, a heavy handle will press the door against its frame, but it is possible that the door will open in windy weather, so it is better to make a cap over the pipe. The doors can be installed so that they open in the other direction. For this, the doors have a double-sided lock. This is convenient if the hostess is left-handed or if they open towards a combustible partition, but the latter can interfere with cleaning. For cleaning soot, doors can be installed in one row, but for cleaning gas ducts with a wire with a cloth bow, they are small in height and are not convenient.

Hermetic doors, fixed in the masonry with riveted plates, are very heavy. It is difficult to fasten such doors with wire, since they pull the wire out of the masonry with their weight, but it is possible if the frame with the doors is fixed so that it is installed vertically, and the wire is intertwined with the next two rows of masonry. The plates hold the frame with doors tightly during masonry. These wire-mounted doors last decades until the oven is demolished. Sometimes the doors, especially the old ones, do not match the masonry and a gap forms on top of the door. In such cases, it is better to raise the door up flush with the masonry, and put thin brick quarters under the door on the mortar, or cut off a part of the brick under the door to its full width, and for the wire, cut out shallow grooves that rise obliquely upward. It is easier and safer to fold the arch over the door, as was done in the old days.

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First we lay out the bricks of the first row without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we put them on the mortar, using a level, checking the horizontal position. With light blows of a mallet, we upset the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with bricks and mortar, controlling the masonry with a level. Using a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the oven in plan and diagonal. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock out the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining the parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After that, we lay the middle of the first row with a brick on a mortar.

Having laid the first row, we put the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners using a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we first lay out the perimeter, and then the middle of the second row according to the order. Having laid out the second row, we hammer in the corners into the seam between the first and second row nails 80-100mm long.

Then we lower the plumb line alternately at all corners of the second row and mark the points on the ceiling from which the plumb line is lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and pull it. We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, then we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace is obtained in space. We carry out the laying of subsequent rows, controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We put the subsequent rows in the same way as the first two, checking each row with the order. In the course of masonry, we clean the inner and outer surfaces of the excess squeezed out solution with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet cloth.

The thickness of the seam of the oven masonry should be as thin as possible. In thick seams, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The mortar should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During laying, we observe the rule of binding bricks. Each vertical seam should be covered with a brick of the next top row. Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always possible to achieve. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the brick length.

It is better to lay out the firebox of the furnace from fireclay bricks, because it can withstand higher temperatures. Bandaging the seams of fireclay and oven bricks is not desirable due to the different coefficient of linear expansion.

Installation of a furnace door in brickwork

Therefore, a whole row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the furnace is lined on the edge. Leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and fireclay bricks.

Installation of cleaning and blowing doors

Before installing the door, we check for tightness of the canvas to the frame, free rotation of the canvas in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry. We eliminate any defects found before installation or replace the door.

We insert a knitting wire 50-60 cm long into the holes of the doors, fold it in half and twist it.

Apply mortar to the brickwork at the door installation site. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontality and fix it with bricks. Then we put the ends of the wire into the seams of the masonry.

Installing the grate

When installing stove appliances, it must be remembered that cast iron and brick do not expand equally when heated. This especially affects the behavior of devices installed in the zone high temperatures... If they are tightly walled up in the oven masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, firebox and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removed for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installation of the fire door

The furnace door is installed, like the blower door, only it is wrapped in asbestos to fill the temperature gap. We check the verticality and horizontalness of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

If the oven is used intensively, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the upper part of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude from the door frame by 100-120 mm. The clamp is fastened to the door with rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or brick in the castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is made with a wedge lintel.

Installing the stove

The row on which it will be installed, we lay out the plate first without mortar. We put the plate on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account a temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the slab. We spread the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with a solution, put an asbestos cord in it along the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and upset it with a mallet, making it horizontal in level.

Installing the oven

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide. The side of the oven, facing the firebox, is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top it is covered with a layer of 25-30 mm mortar to prevent the oven walls from burning out.

Laying of arches and vaults

When laying stoves, it is often necessary to block various furnace openings, fireboxes and all kinds of chambers, using jumpers of a simple and complex shape. The overlap in the wall is called an arch, and the overlap between the walls is called a vault. The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the vault must be odd. The middle odd brick is a castle brick.

Any jumper begins with the laying of heels, which are performed according to the template. Since the height of an arch or vault is different, the angle of the heel also changes. You cannot use one heel shape for all arches and vaults.

These photos show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so especially for you, I have prepared a video guide "Do-it-yourself ovens", which shows all the nuances of laying a brick oven in video format.

How to repair a stove

The Russian stove is a heating and cooking unit with a resting bench. It consists of refractory bricks, is located on a raised foundation and is designed for long-term cooling after the end of the furnace. The design is distinguished by impressive dimensions, but in modern conditions it is sometimes simplified to 2 parts: a cooking chamber and a pipe. As a rule, cracks in the case are a breakdown, therefore furnace repair this type is most often based on restoring their integrity. Such situations can be prevented by carrying out preventive repairs, monitoring the condition of the masonry joints and furnace parts.

Breakdown of the Russian oven

High temperatures lead to the collapse of the brick structure, if there is even a slight violation of the masonry technology. Also, improper operation and wear of parts leads to repairs. Outwardly, malfunctions can be identified by the following symptoms:

• decreased chimney draft;
• cracks appeared in the body due to its expansion during the operation of the furnace;
• cracking of fireclay brick masonry in the firebox.

You can do a simple repair of a Russian stove yourself if you have at least some building skills. It is important to understand that at first glance, small amendments can turn into major repairs. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to immediately assess the entire volume of breakdowns. Sometimes, during the dismantling of some elements, significant parts of the walls, foundation, and chimney fall apart.

Eliminate bad traction

If poor draft is associated with the adhesion of soot, it is necessary to clean the chimney. You can do the work yourself, but you need to stock up on the necessary devices. First, they clean the chimney from the roof with a special brush. Then they find embedded bricks in different parts of the pipe, pull them out and clean the channels. Instead of them, cleaning doors can be provided. The embedded bricks are made slightly protruding. This makes them easy to find among other masonry elements.

Also, the sealing may be broken due to the unclosed door of the bundle. All these factors lead to smoke in the room, so the repair of stoves and fireplaces is aimed first at providing traction. When cleaning the pipe, debris will be poured into a special niche under the pipe, from which it is swept out and cleaned out. If the draft has not improved, then the sealing is broken due to a not tightly closed cleaning door or not retracted mortgage brick.

Sealing, replacing the combustion door

Do not allow the combustion chamber door to close loosely. Even a gap of a few millimeters must be removed. For such repairs, a solution is prepared from refractory clay and asbestos powder (or from clay, cement and sand). The grooves around the perimeter are cleaned and filled with mortar. If the gap is wide, fill it with a ceramic cord and mixture.

Sometimes the firebox door requires a complete replacement. In this case, replacement of the brickwork around its perimeter is required. Disassembly starts from the top horizontal row. No more than 3 rows are broken, and in vertical masonry they are broken along the 1st row. Then a new brickwork is made using a heat-resistant mixture. This view repair refers to major, so it must be done by a master with experience.

Repair of cracks in the case

The walls of the housing expand from heat, and the pressure of the heavy arch can crack the seams. They need to be covered up, and you can do it yourself, without calling the master. It is important to mix the mortar correctly so that it does not crumble the very next day after the furnace is running.

You can make the mixture yourself by mixing chamotte clay with sand in a 1: 1 ratio. You can also use commercially available dry refractory mixtures based on aluminum oxides. Without additives, they are designed for temperatures up to 900 C. However, the parameters can be increased by adding alumina cement. Then the maximum allowable temperature will be 1200 C, and the use of liquid glass instead of water for mixing increases this indicator to 1600 C.

The gaps are covered with a solution diluted to a viscous state. The slots are moistened with water immediately before work. Then the solution is applied with a spatula and leveled. The joint width can be 5-14 mm, depending on the composition of the mortar. It is important that the expansion coefficients of the mix and the brick match... then the cracks will not appear again during the heating of the oven.

Installing a slab in a brick oven

When self-construction ovens, each owner is faced with the installation of special oven elements.

Installation # 8212; very demanding work. But not everyone knows how to do it right. A further article will tell in detail about installing a good fire door and all other elements.

Specialized stove devices include: doors of various purposes, grate grates and various stove valves. They are necessary to ensure combustion in the oven and convenient use of the oven. Therefore, all furnace elements must be properly installed and serviceable.

Preparation for work

• before starting the installation of the door, it is necessary to check for the strength of its adherence to the frame itself, the absence of various distortions, the possibility of good fixation of the closure, free rotation of the canvas and the presence of appropriate holes for attaching the door to the brickwork of the furnace;
• if any defects are found, they need to be removed or the door replaced;
• it is necessary that the gate valve moves freely in the grooves and completely closes the hole; cracks are not allowed in the frame itself;
• if you plan to heat the stove with only coal, you need to drill a hole of 13-18 mm in the gate itself.

Installation features

When installing furnace elements, it must be remembered that different materials, such as brick and any metal, expand in different ways during heating. This is especially true for appliances installed in a high temperature area. If the masonry is made dense, with a strong increase in temperature, the devices will tear it. That is why they are installed in such a way that free expansion is possible during heating without endangering the furnace.

How to fix the door in the stove

To do this, you need to lay the grate in the opening with an exact 5 mm gap. In the event of a breakdown, it must be freely removed for replacement. The grate is laid without using mortar, the grooves are covered with sand.

Work process

Installation of a high-quality combustion door. This process must be treated with full responsibility and seriousness. It is most exposed to thermal and thermal expansion. Therefore, it should be installed so that the space in the stove overlaps as tightly as possible and the door is securely fastened in the masonry. Such a furnace door is fastened with clamps, which are made of steel.

At the bottom, the door can be fixed with a steel wire having a diameter of 2 mm, and then close it with a solution. The top of the door cannot be fixed with wire, as it will burn out from the influence of a very high temperature.

Clamps are made of steel. All ears should look out of the door frame by 10-12 cm, and they are fastened with special rivets. The lower part of the door can be secured with a wire about 60 cm long. Before installing the door, you need to wrap the frame with asbestos. The material can be used in the form of a cord, crumb or sheets, moistened with water before use.

At the exact place where the door is installed, it is necessary to apply a layer of clay composition to the masonry. When using wire, the ends are hidden in the seams. Be sure to level the horizontal of the installation and fix it with a wooden lath. One end of this rail is placed on the door frame, and the other on three masonry bricks, a brick is placed on top of it. Next, bricks are laid out on the mortar, gradually laying the door in the stove array. Each row starts from the door.

Oven

The oven is usually made of sturdy steel. Gaps are determined using a level, the frame is wrapped sheet asbestos, having a width of half a brick. The plane of the frame at the top should coincide with the masonry surface of the last row of bricks, therefore, if necessary, the asbestos layer must be increased.

The grate must be installed 25-30 cm below the combustion hole with a slope towards the combustion door. The bottom of the firebox is shaped like a trough, and the slots between the grates should be along the firebox.

To prevent the grate from destroying the masonry when heated, it is necessary to leave gaps of 5 mm, which are then covered with sand. The grate cannot be fixed with mortar!

The blower door and, together with it, the cleaning door is installed similarly to the firebox door. The blower door is practically not subject to high temperatures, so it must be tightly and firmly walled up in the masonry of the stove, processing the seams with clay mortar. The horizontal of the frame is also determined using a level.

Installing a cast iron stove

Absolutely all slabs are installed strictly according to the building level. For installation, it is necessary to hew out a groove in the uppermost row corresponding to the size of the board and having a gap of 5 mm on each side. Neither side of the plate should never be clamped, since during heating the opposite side will change and mow. You need to use clay-asbestos solution. They also need to be rubbed over the entire top of the plate around the entire perimeter.

Do-it-yourself oven repair.

The construction of a stove in their home is mainly carried out by specialists, in extreme cases, you can do it yourself if you have any experience and competent drawings.

But anyone can do a furnace repair with their own hands. After some time, at the next inspection of the heating source, we noticed a problem and realized that it was time to repair the furnace with our own hands or some part of it.

Make good repair do-it-yourself ovens, anyone who has dealt with mortars and bricks can eliminate any shortcomings.

Do-it-yourself oven repair.

A small repair of a stove with your own hands or a fireplace implies such work as: replacing burned-out grates, covering up cracks or chips, replacing worn-out doors, a valve or individual burnt bricks.

Over time, the masonry of the stove cracks, cracks appear, the solution from the seams begins to crumble, an urgent need to repair the stove with your own hands is required. In this case, the slots should be widened with a scraper; the old mortar should be removed during the expansion process.

After removing debris and dust, the gap is moistened with water and then covered with a solution. To control the integrity of the furnace, it is whitewashed with lime, the appearance of any crack or through crack will be noticeable on the whitewash in the form of blackness.

Stove door repair.

After some time, your furnace door loosened, then you need to repair the furnace with your own hands using a solution and, if necessary, new bricks. The time has come to change the old furnace door to a new one; for this, it must be carefully removed together with the box and the fixing wire.

When making repairs to the furnace with our own hands, first carefully remove the bricks around the box, also those that do not hold well on the base, stagger or break off.

If the fixing wire has rotted and fell off, then it must be replaced with a new one. Most suitable option of the fastening wire for the frame of the combustion door, its thickness should be 3 mm.

For good fastening, the wire should be inserted into the hole in the box, then twisted in half, leaving small ends for fastening the frame to the oven masonry.

So that in the future the wire does not fidget and the door frame does not loosen, its ends should be bent at an angle and laid in the chip of the upper brick. Then the bricks and the place where the door box stood are cleaned of old mortar, dust, dirt and moistened with water.

When repairing the stove with your own hands, laying the box of the furnace door with a brick, you need to securely fix it in the opening. For this, the size of the opening for the box is made as accurate as possible, with a minimum gap.

The gap between the furnace door and the opening for the box should not exceed 2-3 mm, since with frequent opening and closing of the furnace door, with a large gap, the solution may fall out, the door frame will loosen again and it will be necessary to do the repair of the furnace again with your own hands. After replacing the furnace door, all seams and cracks are carefully covered with a solution.

Furnace repair

If the grate is burnt out, you should only replace the grate, remove the old one, clean the place and put a new one. When repairing the furnace with your own hands to replace the grate, installing a new one in place of the old one, it should be noted that the metal expands when heated and contracts when it cools.

When installing a new grate on the cleaned place, you need to leave small gaps and fill them with sand. When repairing the stove with your own hands to replace the grates, you should thoroughly clean the heating source - the firebox

Inside the firebox of a stove or fireplace to preserve heat, it is laid out with refractory chamotte on the edge, or if you are lucky, you can find an old stove brick that keeps the heat well. This material, when heated for a long time, can retain heat and provide a normal temperature in the room.

To ensure the smooth operation of the stove or fireplace, you need to occasionally inspect the heating source, inspect the masonry for cracks, aged or burnt out bricks or other defects, and if necessary, repair the stove with your own hands - the firebox.

If such damage is found when inspecting the firebox, do not postpone the repair of the furnace with your own hands indefinitely. Timely corrected defects of the internal space of the combustion chamber will ensure the preservation of its heat transfer and safe use.

When repairing the firebox masonry essential has what appropriate construction material you're using.

In the combustion room, during the combustion of the heating material, a very high temperature is formed, therefore, when repairing the furnace with your own hands, you need to choose the right brand of cement that can withstand high temperatures.

For such repairs of the furnace, refractory cement or pyrocement is commercially available. Depending on the damage and for what work the solution is prepared, its density depends.

A thick solution is prepared to fill cracks or crevices, if the burnt-out bricks are replaced with new ones, then the solution must be prepared a little thinner. The time for using the mortar prepared for repair is one hour.

Hog repair.

We often forget to inspect the gas outlet system - hog in the attic. Violation of its masonry, the formation of cracks or cracks contributes to the smoke of the furnace. Brick in the gas outlet system may fall off, the mortar in the joint may crumble out due to the effect of exhaust gases or climatic conditions.

In this case, you need to do your own oven repair. ensure that the smoke can escape through the exhaust gas system.

To do this, defective seams should be thoroughly cleaned of old mortar and soot, remove debris and dust, then moistened with water and cover with a thick solution.

For better reliability of the gas outlet system, the masonry of the damaged area should be shifted again.

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So, last time we looked at the general algorithm of work for self-repairing a brick oven and stopped at repairing or replacing furnace doors. This was point 4.2. It should be noted that almost all problems with furnace doors are rarely independent and, as a rule, they are accompanied by a complex of problems: problems with brickwork around the furnace door, destruction and cracking of bricks, chipping and destruction of seams.

Often, these bricks are either completely or partially destroyed and also require replacement. Therefore, at first, before installing a new one or replacing old door, you will need to replace the bricks. How to do it? It depends on how you choose to install the door. There are several methods that are discussed in detail in various sources, I will only briefly describe them: the first method is classic and very common - on wire. This wire is clearly visible in the photo below, the only thing I will notice is that here I captured the process of dismantling the old door and partial dismantling of the masonry

For the best result I use nichrome wire - nichrome. This is the grade of steel X10N80. It has good ductility and heat resistance. As practice shows, such a wire "stands" in ovens for decades without any problems. In the absence of it, you can (?) Use other steel, but I strongly do not recommend this. In my practice, while repairing old furnaces, I even met furnace doors fixed on copper wire. The process itself: a wire with a diameter smaller (two to three times, approximately) than the thickness of the seams of the masonry of your stove is attached to the door frame. The overwhelming majority of fire doors already have holes for fastening the wire. However, if you suddenly come across a door frame without holes or you find the factory location uncomfortable, this is not a problem. Cast iron usually lends itself very well to machining... You can drill the holes you want with conventional metal drills - usually HSS tips. Do not forget to cool the drill in emulsion (oil) - this way it will last much longer. The obvious disadvantage of this method of installing doors and other cast iron fittings is the high labor intensity: you need to brick the wire in a tensioned state into the masonry for a sufficient length. Each case is individual, but as a rule, this must be done in no way less than two bricks in length. And this is already a very large section of masonry under the bulkhead, considering that you will also have to replace the rows from above.

More progressive methods of installing furnace doors involve the use of sheet stainless steel, either cut with special plates with flanges, which will hold the door engaging in the masonry and subsequently these plates are screwed into pre-drilled holes with self-tapping screws, or onto a one-piece shell pre-made and installed on the door frame. In the second case, the thickness of the stainless sheet is less than in the case of installation on plates. For the greatest reliability, it is possible to combine one of the latter methods with the first. The first method, using wire and the second, using a shell, involves a partial but significant analysis of the masonry and possibly preparation by sawing bricks into pieces in the required size. This means that a door, for example with a stainless shell, is inserted into the opening of the masonry - accordingly, this is done with a movement from top to bottom and you need space from above, since the four planes of the shell have already been bent back. Do not forget to place a non-combustible heat-insulating material (silica fiber or the like) between the stainless steel and the brickwork, on all adjoining surfaces. It is needed not only to protect against high temperatures, but also to provide damping of the cyclic linear expansion of the metal when heated. There is also a way to install the door only on self-tapping screws (or bolts), but personally I categorically do not recognize it, assuming its extremely low reliability. Of general recommendations It is worth noting that you should avoid tightly installing the door into the masonry and sealing the cracks with a clay-sand mortar - the fact is that the door heats up both strongly and quickly, due to its high thermal conductivity, therefore, when expanding, it can damage the brick, leading to its cracking and destruction of the masonry joints. Sealing of such gaps should be done with a non-rigid refractory, which I described in the first part of this article. In any case, when manipulating the masonry, you should be careful and remember that the bandaging of the general array, due to which it is held due to the distribution of the load, is not a panacea and collapse is possible, therefore, the removal of bricks to be replaced must be done with caution, in some cases installing supports and other accessories. I sometimes use a simple car jack and a few planks, but that’s just a little trick.

I was a little carried away by the story of plumbing and undeservedly deprived the attention of the skill of a bricklayer. Here are some important tips and tricks:

In general, when replacing doors and other fittings, you have a relatively small amount of masonry work, but no less responsible from this. Observe all necessary and known recommendations for the selection and preparation of the material. Laying must be carried out with bandaging - that is, the vertical seams of vertically adjacent rows should not be on top of each other, here is an example in the picture.

Even a primitive or not quite neat "lock" made of bricks above the doorway is better than just masonry. And it is not at all permissible to leave the brick entirely hanging over the opening, for example, on some metal plate. Like in this image:

Helpful advice - take the opportunity!

When you make a partial repair of the furnace, with its dismantling individual elements, as a rule, it is possible to clean it hard-to-reach places... This opportunity should be used. So, in the case of removing either the door or the cooking deck, the high zone and the space after it becomes available to you. Khailo is a hole in the firebox through which flue gases escape. In practice, it has been noticed that in the area after the high, on horizontal surfaces, a fairly large amount of ash accumulates. It can be easily removed by hand using a handy tool.

Replacing, installing other stove accessories, such as blowing and cleaning doors, is a much simpler operation, with the exception, perhaps, of replacing various types of valves, however, a separate article will be devoted to this very difficult issue.

4.3. Firebox repair. One of the most vulnerable and critical places in the furnace - after all, it is there that the combustion of fuel occurs and it is there that the bricks are subject to the greatest thermal loads, therefore it is not surprising that they are destroyed first of all, especially if the firebox is not lined with refractory bricks and is made of ordinary, “red "Oven" bricks. This is an even more complex and demanding type of repair. It is good if you are repairing a "Shvedka" (a heating and cooking stove with a cast-iron deck) and have the opportunity to easily replace old bricks with new ones. The situation is much more complicated heating furnace (“Dutch” stove (golanka, galanka, gulanka and other variations of the name, from which my ears roll up into a tube ...), the firebox of which does not have a “visible end” in height and most likely a certain constructive of the convective system of the furnace in the form of a chamber rests on it afterburner, bread chamber and / or smoke collector or just a system of channels - as it often happens. In simple terms, it's just a heating stove. Sometimes they are called a column. Note that this oven, this “column” can be not only square in the perimeter , but also rectangular. It directly depends on what kind of room this stove heats. So, if you decide to start self-repairing the firebox, I categorically do not recommend doing this without insurance - a partner. Please observe safety and precautions. The stove, especially aged , can present many unpleasant surprises and the apparent strength of the outer surface of the masonry can be really only visible. refractory mortars do not always make it easy to remove bricks, many of them are sintered, turning the firebox or part of the bricks into a single whole. Therefore, not as self-promotion, but exclusively assuming good intentions, I would advise you to entrust this type of repair to professionals, or even better - to the stove-maker who folded this stove for you. All this applies equally to the repair of the vault of the Russian stove, which is part of its firebox and has the highest difficulty in terms of repair, since there the laws of dressing and load distribution work differently than in simple vertical brickwork. In simpler terms, the vault can collapse, fold like a house of cards, even if a single brick or even a piece of it or the remains of burnt-out brick is removed from it. In general, repairing a firebox is replacing bricks. The scale of such repair is purely individual, depending on the quality raw materials, the professionalism of the stove-maker, who built and repaired the stove later. Very often, precisely on the basis of the critical wear of the firebox, it is necessary to make a decision about the complete dismantling of the stove.

Installation and fastening of oven appliances

But usually, everything can be repaired and restored. If the firebox was not lined, then burnt and broken bricks are changed and, if necessary, a lining is made, for example, as in this photo (this is the same furnace as in the first photo), or the old lining is simply changed, if it was provided.

In this case, SHA-6 bricks were used for lining. These bricks will protect the red, non-refractory bricks of the furnace wall and slightly increase the heat capacity. Unfortunately, they will also somewhat reduce the volume of the firebox, but this sacrifice is forced and the negative effect from it is much less than the destruction of the bearing wall of the furnace. Also, this problem is solved quite easily - with one, two additional woods during the fire. There are other options for protecting the firebox, but I will talk about them next time, at the beginning of the next article. Stay tuned for updates on the site!

Making stove appliances with your own hands

(From the blower to the weather vane)

Not only fireplace gates, but also other stove appliances and accessories - doors, latches, an oven and even a stove and grate, if you wish, you can make yourself or order in a locksmith's workshop.

Stove Experienced stove-makers advise to cut the required sizes by gas welding from sheet steel 10-12 mm thick. Then smooth the edges with an angle grinder. Moreover, the burners do not need to be made. Such a stove, unlike cast iron, will never crack. The large thickness will not let it warp. On a well-heated stove and without hotplates, the temperature is sufficient for cooking. And open burners, according to the hostesses, only pollute the kitchen utensils with soot.

Installation of a home-made valve in the masonry. The thick wire frame prevents the clay seam from breaking.

Figure: 1. Latch and guide frame.

Gate valves (fig. 1) any size can be cut from 4-5 mm sheet steel. Guide frames for them are bent from steel wire dia. 6 mm according to the given drawings.

Furnace masonry

In fig. 1 shows the dimensions for a chimney damper with a cross section of 250 × 130 mm.

By the way, for purchased valves in bricks, you need to make special grooves, squeezing them out with a hammer-pick or
sawing out with a "grinder". And when installing a homemade valve, this time-consuming operation is not required.

Fig. 2. Grate.

Grate (Fig. 2) can be drawn from bar sections with a diameter of at least 12 mm, by laying between them M8 nuts or washers with a thickness of at least 6 mm with holes dia. 7 mm. At the ends of each bar at a distance of 12 mm from the edge, holes are drilled to dia. 6.5 mm. Then the rods with washers are put on two nails dia. 6 mm, 200 mm long and rivet them from the side of the tip. To facilitate riveting, it is advisable to chop off or blunt the sharp ends of the nails on emery. The length of the rods is selected locally. It should be remembered that when installing the grate in the oven between this grate and the masonry there should be a gap of about 5 mm for thermal expansion.

Instead of a blower door in small stoves and fireplaces, in some cases it is more expedient to use an ash box made in the form of a scoop (Fig. 3). The body is cut out of sheet steel with a thickness of 0.6-1 mm. Along the lines shown in Fig. 3 strokes, bend the sides and edges. Drill holes for rivets. The body is riveted first, then the front wall is riveted to it, the top of which is bent along the fold lines, making a comfortable wide handle.

Figure: 3. Ash box.

The ash box should enter the ash box so that its front wall tightly overlaps the ash box.

With the help of this device, you can easily remove the ash accumulated in the blower with one movement.

In terms of fire safety, an ash box is also preferable to a door. Indeed, with increasing air access, only the top of the blower opens, the bottom remains closed and the burning coals cannot fall out of the blower to the floor.

Figure: 4. Weathervane.

The weather vane not only decorates the head of the chimney, but also protects the chimney from precipitation, and also prevents the draft from “overturning” in windy weather.

To protect against the ingress of atmospheric precipitation into the pipe, as well as to prevent the draft from tipping over in windy weather, a so-called weather vane or smoke hood is installed on the pipe. In fig. 4 shows how to make a weather vane for a pipe with a chimney size of 130 × 130 mm (in a quadruple).

For the manufacture of a weather vane, a sheet of galvanized roofing steel with dimensions of 580 × 1000 mm is taken. Draw an axial line and mark a fold line of the petals 100 mm from the edges (see Fig. 4, fragment I). From the axial on both sides on the fold line, points are laid at a distance of 50 mm. Then, from these points to the axial on the fold line, 30 mm are laid. At the edge of the sheet from the axial, 70 mm are laid. Connecting the obtained points with lines as shown in Fig. 4, all petals are marked. For beauty and to reduce the windage of a weather vane, you can punch holes in large petals by cutting. It remains to cut the petals along the marked lines and bend - small inward, large - outward at an angle of 90 °. Holes are made for fastening and the sides are bent at an angle of 90 °. Now, in order to obtain a beautiful bend, it is necessary to pass the annealed steel wire through the fastening holes and tighten the sidewalls with it until the distance between them is 380 mm. The weather vane is ready. They install it on the head of the chimney parallel to the ridge of the roof and lay a row of bricks inside on the cement mortar.

The most difficult to manufacture in a handicraft way are ovens and doors. In the following table, for the unification of the drawings and to facilitate calculations, the main dimensions of the openings in the brickwork for the frames of various doors are given.

Figure: 5. Oven.

Figure: 6. Cleaning-box. Figure: 7. (top) Option of a welded door with a steel corner frame. Hinge bushings are grinded on lathe... Figure: 8. (right) Sheet steel door option.

The oven (fig. 5) is usually made of roofing steel, riveted or welded. Doors for oven it is better to make double-leaf, as shown in fig. 5. In order to avoid warping, the corners are riveted or spot-welded to the walls of the oven at a distance of 70 mm, so that the shelf of the corner is at the level of the horizontal seam of the masonry. From the inside, you can also rivet or weld corners to the side walls of the oven to install a baking sheet, tray or grill.

To facilitate the cleaning of the furnace, a cleaning box is installed in the masonry (Fig. 6), which is usually made of thin roofing steel. It is simpler in execution than the door and more airtight. Cleaning includes a housing in which a box with a handle is tightly inserted. A piece of brick in clay mortar is sometimes placed inside the box.

The doors can be made in two versions - welded with a frame made of steel corners (Fig. 7) and riveted, made entirely of sheet steel (Fig. 8). Both options are shown in the figures below. Thicker metal must be used for the furnace door, while thin steel will quickly burn out. The blower door is less susceptible to high temperatures, so it can be made of relatively thin metal.

Folding the oven is one thing, but installing additional structural elements - this is an equally important part in the construction of the furnace. This work is very painstaking, does not allow any mistakes or inaccuracies, and few know how it is carried out. This article aims to explain all the main points and options for installing a door in a brick oven.

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The obligatory elements of the stove include valves, grates and, of course, the door, which is needed to put fuel into the firebox, regulates combustion and prevents the embers from falling out of the stove.

Installing the door in the oven

Preparation includes the following necessary steps:

• Before the installation itself, it is necessary to examine in detail the door itself and the fastening frame (de facto, we take the fact that the door has already been made to the required dimensions). Cracks, distortions of the door and frame are unacceptable, its plane must be flat and fit snugly not only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe lock, but also over the entire area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the frame;
• If an unsatisfactory condition is found, the door is replaced or, if possible, the defects are eliminated;
• The door itself should move freely in the fastening elements. Easy closing-opening should be carried out;
• If the stove is made only for coal, then a hole is drilled in the door - 13 mm. in diameter. This hole will be an outlet for gases formed during the combustion of anthracite.

The door is exposed to the greatest impact during the operation of the oven. It bears mechanical stress, as well as increased thermal stress. In order for the durability of the damper to last as long as possible, the following instructions for each mounting option must be observed.

On nichrome wire

Nichrome has proven itself well in solving this issue due to its increased resistance to heat and at the same time retaining its plasticity in the form of a wire. Such a mount with a guarantee will last 20 years. How to fix the door to a brick oven:

The main disadvantage of this method is that the wire must be kept taut and gradually embedded in the seam between the bricks. The length of the wire is one and a half to two bricks. The whole process is very laborious.

For a structure made of stainless steel sheet

Installing the furnace door of a brick oven by this method is most common. The frame is a structure that is the same geometric dimensions as the door, but the frame plates have special beads. They are made from a corner, one side of which fits into the distance between the bricks, into the masonry. Then everything is coated with a solution.

The method of how to correctly insert the door into the oven on a profile criminal can be combined with the first one - on a wire, in which case the fasteners will be both reliable and durable.

For self-tapping screws or bolts

This method takes place, but among stove-makers it is the least common and reliable. The fact is that the very structure of the frame and the door is very heavy, especially if it is made of cast iron. This method is applicable in the question of how to fix the door for the chimney in the stove, and not for the firebox.

The door and masonry should have a small buffer, since heating the frame in contact with the brick will lead to its curvature, as well as damage to the screws - they can bend and crawl out of the screwing place. In this case, the door will mutually move away from the masonry.

Features of installing the door in a metal oven

The main feature is that the same metal materials are used. It is advisable to choose exactly the same material for the door as for the stove. Most often it is steel with a carbon content of 0.06%; the use of cast iron is also relevant.

In this case, the door is mounted without a frame on simple hinges. The main thing is their constructive reliability.

Each owner of a brick oven is free to choose the options for installing the doors. But the priority is the methods of installation on nichrome wire or using metal structures. These methods guarantee durability and reliability.

Self-construction of a home stove involves the use of special elements that make up this heating structure. Installing the furnace door of a brick oven is a critical step. Therefore, you need to know about the possible ways to fix this oven device.

• cast iron;
• steel;
• with built-in glass.

The first option is the most widespread, since it best matches the price / quality indicator. Stainless steel stove elements are mostly installed in rooms where there is contact with water, for example, in baths. As for the doors with glass, they can be recommended for those who like to watch the fire.

Before proceeding with the installation of the stove in the masonry, it is necessary to check how easy it is to open so that after installation there are no problems. There are situations when the door opens tightly before installation, but during the operation of the heating structure it is being developed. If we consider most of the stoves that are installed in village houses, then the door elements in them do not have asbestos gaskets. Today this material is used in industrial furnaces where it is required to withstand high temperatures.

Since we are talking about installing a stove in home ovens, the temperature in them is not so high, and the door frame itself is located at a distance from direct fire. In this case, installation on asbestos can be omitted. Some craftsmen, when erecting heating structures, in which coal is used as fuel, do without asbestos, and the door is installed using wire. Holes can be drilled closer to the edge in the oven frame to ensure a safe finish. There are several ways how to install the fire door.

The first way - we mount the furnace door on a wire

When choosing this installation option, it is important to select a wire that will not burn out during the operation of the oven. In most cases, nichrome is preferred. This material is resistant to fire and is plastic, so it will last for a long time. The wire is threaded through the holes provided for this in the door. If they are absent, then it will not be difficult to drill them. The diameter of the material is selected based on the thickness of the masonry joint (2-3 times less).

To ensure a better fixing of the wire during the installation of the oven device, place it at an angle to the applied force. This will prevent the door from falling out when you open it. With regard to the length of the wire, it should be at least 2 times the brick thickness, i.e. 130 mm. The disadvantage of this method of installing the door is that in case of replacing the oven fittings, it will be necessary to disassemble the brickwork, since most of the wire is in it.

After threading the wire into the hole, fold it in half and twist it, avoiding the formation of rings. To secure it, it is pulled and inserted into the prepared chip in the edge of the brick (5-10 mm deep) in order to avoid loosening and slipping. The door is installed on the mortar, after which the ends of the wire are bred to the walls of the furnace, and the other ends are placed on three bricks and pressed in the upper part with several bricks.

The second way is to mount the door on stainless steel plates

This option for installing the door is considered more preferable. In most cases, the mounting element is a flanged plate. It is imperative that a material resistant to high temperatures, such as asbestos tape, is placed between the stainless strip for fixing the cast-iron door and the brickwork of the furnace. After installation, it will not only serve as protection against high temperatures, but also provide compensation for metal expansion during heating. In other words, when the metal is heated, the masonry will not collapse.

Stainless flanged plates hold the door in place by engaging the brickwork. The installation of such elements is carried out using self-tapping screws, holes for which are drilled in advance. You can also fix the furnace door using a solid shell, which is installed on the frame of the furnace. In this case, the metal sheet should be thinner than when using plates. In order to perform fastening with maximum reliability, it is recommended to install the part on a metal strip together with a wire.

The third way is to fasten the fire door with bolts or screws

Installation of the furnace door of a brick oven using self-tapping screws or bolts is considered the fastest and at the same time unreliable. The installation process consists in screwing the door into the prepared holes in the masonry. This method is not the best for both a cast-iron appliance and a steel or glass one. Do not install the door close to the masonry, since when the part is heated, the masonry will gradually collapse.

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The listed methods of installing a stove device can be used not only when laying a stove from scratch, but also when repairing an old one. Which option to opt for depends both on personal preferences, materials at hand, and on experience in the furnace business. The best way will be the way in which the door can be easily dismantled if necessary.

As for the choice of a stove device, first of all, it should be borne in mind that this part is not only protection against fire, that is, it provides safety, but also allows you to control the combustion process. In addition, it should look beautiful, be appropriate in a particular room. Only in this case, its installation will provide warmth and comfort in the house.