Today the topic of our post is called a small self-made starter for a car factory, namely a starter, not a charger, since we have many articles on this site about car chargers and how to charge. Therefore, today it is exclusively about a homemade launcher for a battery.

DIY portable vehicle launchers

So, what is a starting device for a car in our case for Hyundai Santa Fe, but this is not particularly important for which car, the battery capacity through which this starting device has to start the engine is more important.

Diy starter diagram for a car

In this article we will look at the most the simplest scheme do-it-yourself starting device for a car, because most do not have knowledge in circuitry and electronics to create complex starting devices and it is not always profitable to purchase many parts for homemade products, which sometimes at cost price can come out as a budget ready-made starting device for a car from a store.

So, in our case, for the launcher, we do not intend to purchase an expensive portable battery with a large capacity, otherwise the device will immediately turn from a budget device into a very expensive one.

We will make a starting device for a car from a 220v network, for this we need a powerful transformer, preferably at least 500 watts in power, and preferably 800 watts, ideally 1.2-1.4 kilowatts \u003d 1400 watts. Since at the start of the engine, the first impulse given by the battery to crank the crankshaft \u003d 200Amps and the starter consumption is about 100Amperes, and when our 100A device is combined with the battery, they will not just give out 200A at the start and then our launcher will help maintain the current of 100Amps for normal starting and operation starter until the engine starts completely.

This is how the diagram of a starter device for a car with your own hands looks like, photo below

Transformer for car starting device

To create such a starting device from a transformer-type network, you need to rewind the transformer itself.

We will need:

• Transformer core
  
• Copper wire 1.5mm-2mm
• Copper wire 10mm
• Two powerful diodes as on welding machines
  
• Crocodile clips for ease of use and connection of the launcher's wires to the car battery, copper is very desirable, since they have high conductivity, and thick at least 2mm thick
  

We are actually starting the process of making a portable starting device for a car with our own hands

To do this, you need to make the primary winding of the transformer with copper wire in insulation with a diameter of at least 1.5-2 mm, the number of turns will be about 260-300.

After you wind this wire on the transformer core, you need to measure the current strength and voltage given out at the output of these windings, it should be in the range of 220-400 mA.

If you did it less, then unwind a few turns of the winding, and if it turned out to be more value, then on the contrary, wind it.

Now you need to wind the secondary winding of the transformer starting the charger. It is desirable to wind it with a multicore cable with a thickness of at least 10 mm, as a rule, the secondary winding contains 13-15 turns, at the output, when measuring on the secondary winding, you should get 13-14 volts, while as you understand the voltage has become a small 13 volts in total, but the power the current flowing through it increased to about 100 Amperes, and it was only 220-400 milliamperes, that is, the current strength increased by about 300-400 times, and the voltage decreased by about 15 times.

For a battery, both are important, but in this case, it is the current strength that plays the key role.

Explanations on winding

If you can't reach a voltage of 13-14 volts, then just wind 10 turns on the secondary winding, measure the voltage, now divide this voltage by the number of turns in our case 10 and get the voltage of one turn, and then just multiply how many turns you need to achieve 13-14 volts at the output of the secondary winding of the homemade transformer starting device.

Let's look at an example for clarity:

WE wound the secondary winding with 10 turns, measure the voltage with a multimeter, for example, we got 20 volts, but about 13 is needed.

So, we take our voltage of 20 volts and divide by the number of wound turns 10 \u003d 20/10 \u003d 2, the number 2 is 2 volts gives us a voltage of one turn, which means how can we reach 13-14 volts knowing that one turn gave 2 volts.

We take the value of the voltage we need, let's it be 14 volts, and divide it by the voltage of one turn 2 volts, \u003d 14/2 \u003d 7, the number 7 is the number of turns on the secondary winding of the car charger required to achieve 14 volts of the output voltage.

Now we are all winding our 7 turns. And to the outputs of these turns, according to the diagram of the starting device for a car with our own hands, which is located above, we connect our diodes, some motorists also use a circuit with one diode and one lamp for 12v 60-100 watts, as in the photo below

How to start a car using a homemade starter

Put on the terminals of our self-made starting device on the top of the battery terminals, the battery is also connected to the car, turn on our launcher and immediately try to start the engine, as soon as the engine starts, we immediately disconnect the starting device from the network and disconnect it from the battery.

Capacitor Car Jump Starter

Some car owners, having at their disposal high-power capacitors or, more correctly, capacities, make a capacitor starting device for a car with their own hands using them instead of a portable portable battery. That is, such a device can be quickly charged from the mains in a minute, then brought to the car, and start the engine without connecting the launcher to the mains.

But as a rule, such a scheme requires some deep knowledge in electronics and an understanding of the capacitance of capacitors and the principle of their operation, and if you do not have overlaid condensers, then it will not be advisable to buy them, since large capacitors are very expensive, and you will need several of them. or even a dozen, and how the price will not be lower than a good factory-made launcher, while you still spend a lot of nerves creating such oud and time.

By the way, in our area, a capacitor starting device for a golden eagle car has gained some popularity - here is his photo below

Therefore, it is the transformer launcher in the days of the USSR, and even now it is also the most widespread, the store versions of such launchers, of course, have been modified and contain various additional elements that make starting the engine from the network easier and safer.

Any launch from any type of launcher always negatively affects the state of the battery, since the battery receives a large current in a very short period of time, which gradually leads to degradation and destruction of its plates during system launch from the launcher.

Therefore, it is still better to use a charger if you have no urgency to start the engine right now.

Well, our post titled Homemade Portable Car Launcher is coming to an end. Write your reviews, what do you think about such a launcher scheme, have you ever used it and have you managed to start the engine of your car.

You need such a device. Especially if your car constantly has problems at the start and with the battery, who knows where this will happen next time? And in the event that you purchase a charger for personal use, you will not only save yourself from being stuck in some unpleasant place, but you will also be able to help a person who finds himself in a similar situation, especially in cold weather, when many engines refuse start up. In addition, almost any charger can charge a phone or tablet - they have long included such a function as additional ports, especially for such purposes.

There are several types of starting chargers, and before you start choosing them, you should familiarize yourself with the benefits of each of them.

Pulse... The operation of a pulse device is based on pulse voltage conversion. Under the influence of frequency electric current the voltage first rises and then falls and is transformed. These devices, as a rule, have low power and are only suitable for recharging a discharged battery. And in the event that the charge is very low and it's freezing outside, charging with it will take a very long time. Among the advantages of such a charger - affordable price, light weight and small dimensions. As for the shortcomings, this is, first of all, the low power and the complexity of the repair. They are also very sensitive to unstable voltages.

Transformer... The operation of such a device is based on a transformer that converts current and voltage. They are able to boost the charge of any battery, no matter how discharged it is. In addition, such units are absolutely independent of the stability of the network and the drops in it do not in any way affect their operation. They work in any state and in most cases will start the engine, even if the battery charge is practically zero. Among the main advantages: power and reliability, absolute unpretentiousness. However, there are also disadvantages. This is a high price of products, large weight and dimensions.

Boosters, or battery-type starters are portable batteries. They work on the principle of a portable charger - first the battery is charged, and already the battery starts the car with a low battery charge. As a rule, they are of two types - household and professional. The difference is in the volume of built-in batteries and sizes. Domestic starters of this type usually have a small capacity, which is sufficient to power one car. The professional battery charger is a complete autonomous charger for a car, and not one, but several. And thanks to their extremely large capacity, they can be used to start engines with different on-board networks, both at 12V and 24V. Their advantage is that they are autonomous and mobile, but due to their weight and dimensions, it is convenient to move really only on a flat surface on the wheels of the body.

Capacitor starter... The engine is started and the battery is discharged according to a rather complex scheme, the main part of which is powerful capacitors. They are first charged, and then give up their charge to start the engine. Due to the fact that they charge themselves very quickly and also quickly start the engine. They are not very popular due to their high cost. In addition, their use leads to rapid deterioration of the car battery.

Charger-starting device presented in this article allows you to start the car in winter time... As you know, starting an internal combustion engine of a car with a dead battery in winter requires a lot of time and effort.

The density of the electrolyte, due to long-term storage, significantly decreases, and the sulfation process taking place inside the battery increases its internal resistance, thereby reducing the starting current of the battery. Plus, in winter, the viscosity of the engine oil increases, which requires more starting power from the car battery.

As you know, you can make it easier to start a car in winter in several ways:

• warm up the oil in the crankcase of the car;
• start the car from another car with a reliable battery;
• start "from the pusher";
• apply a charging and starting device (ZPU).

The version with the use of a starting device is more convenient when storing the car in the garage or in a paid parking lot, where it is possible to connect the starting device to the mains. In addition, this charger and starter will help not only start a car with a dead battery, but also quickly restore and charge it.

Basically in industrial models of the charger and starting device, the battery is recharged from an average power source with a rated current within the range of up to 5A, which, as a rule, is not enough for direct current take-off by the car starter. Despite the fact that the internal capacity of car battery ROMs is very large (some models have up to 240 A / h), after several factories they somehow "sit down", and it will not be possible to quickly restore their charge.

This charging and starting device differs from the industrial prototype in its insignificant weight and the ability to automatically maintain the operating state of the ROM battery, regardless of the storage period or operation. Even if there is no internal battery in the ROM, it can still briefly deliver up to 100A inrush current. There is also a good one with adjustable charge current.

To restore the battery plates and lower the electrolyte temperature during charging, a regeneration mode is provided in the charging-starting device. In this mode, there is an alternation of charging current pulses and pauses.

Schematic diagram

The starting charger circuit contains a triac voltage regulator (VS1), a power transformer (T1), a high-power diode rectifier (VD3, VD4) and a starter battery (GB1). The charging current is selected by the current regulator on the VS1 triac, its current is regulated by the variable resistor R2 and depends on the battery capacity.

The input and output charging circuits have a filter that reduces the degree of radio interference during the operation of the triac regulator. Triac VS1 provides adjustment of the charging current when the mains voltage spreads from 180 to 220 V.

The triac harness consists of R1-R2-C3 (RC circuit), VD2 and a diode bridge VD1. The time constant of the RC circuit affects the moment the dinistor opens (counting from the beginning of the mains half-cycle), which is included in the diagonal of the rectifier bridge through the limiting resistor R4. The rectifier bridge synchronizes the switching on of the triac in both half-cycles of the mains voltage. In the "Regeneration" mode, only one half-cycle of the mains voltage is applied, which helps to clean the battery plates from the existing crystallization. Capacitors C1 and C2 reduce the noise from the triac in the network to acceptable levels.

Details

In the charger and starting device, power from the TV "Rubin" is used. It is also possible to use a TCA-270 transformer. Before rewinding the secondary windings (the primary ones remain unchanged), the frames are separated from the iron, all the former secondary windings (to the foil of the screens) are removed, and they are wound on the vacant space copper wire with a section of 1.8 ... 2.0 mm2 in one layer (before filling) secondary windings. As a result of rewinding, the voltage of one winding should be approximately 15 ... 17 V.

For visual control of the charging and starting current, an ammeter with a shunt resistor is introduced into the charging-starting device circuit. The SA1 mains switch must be rated for a maximum current of 10 A. The SA2 mains switch (type TZ or P1T) allows you to select the maximum voltage on the transformer in accordance with the mains voltage. The internal battery of the 6ST45 or 6ST50 brand should be enough for 3-5 simultaneous starts. Resistors in ZPU can be applied like MLT or SP, capacitors C1, C2 - KBG-MP, C3 - MBGO, C4 - K50-12, K50-6. Diodes D160 (without radiators) can be changed to others with an allowable current of more than 50 A, the triac is of the TC type. Connecting the ZPU to the car battery must be done with powerful crocodile clips (for an operating current up to 200 A). It is important to use grounding in the device.

Customization

During setup, the internal battery GB1 is connected to the device (observe the polarity!), And the regulation of the charging current by resistor R2 is tested. The charging current is then checked in charge, start and regeneration mode. If the current is not more than 10 ... 12A, then the ZPU is in working condition. When connecting the charger and starting device to the car battery, the charge current should first increase approximately 2-3 times, and after 10-30 minutes it should decrease to its original value. After that, the SA3 switch is clicked into the "Start" mode, and the car engine starts up. In case of an unsuccessful attempt to start the engine, additional recharging is performed for 10 - 30 minutes, and the attempt is repeated.

She is familiar to many of our compatriots, especially those who regularly operate their cars in winter, during frosts, come across it. If the engine refuses to start, there are several ways to solve the problem, but one of the most effective options is to use a starting device (PU). How to make a starter device for a car with your own hands and what its principle of operation is, we will describe below.

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Description of the launcher

What is such an engine starting system, how does the module work and what is its purpose? Let's take a quick look at these issues.

Purpose and functions

The purpose of the car charger is to provide a better engine start. Such a need may arise in different cases, but as practice shows, usually our compatriots face such a problem precisely in frosts. In addition, most of the modern charging modules also allow charging mobile gadgets - tablets, smartphones and other devices. For this, they even have additional ports.

Device and principle of operation

There are several types of charging modules:

1. Pulse blocks, the principle of operation of which is based on pulse voltage conversion. In such a module, the voltage first increases under the influence of the current frequency, after which it decreases and is converted. Such devices are usually characterized by low power and, as a rule, are used to recharge a discharged battery. But if the battery charge is very low, while it's freezing outside, then in this case, recharging the battery can take quite a long time.
   The main advantages of such blocks are low price, low weight, and compact size. As for the disadvantages, this is the low power of the module, as well as the complexity of its repair, especially, as practice shows, they can often fail due to unstable voltage.
2. Transformer blocks - in this case, the main element of the device is a transformer used to convert current into voltage. Such charging modules allow you to increase the charge of any battery, regardless of its discharge, even if it is almost full. In addition, devices of this type are immune to voltage surges and can function in any condition. The main advantages are the power of the modules and their reliability, as well as simplicity in terms of operation. As for the cons, this is a high cost, big sizes and weight.
3. Boosters are another type of block. A booster is a portable battery that functions on the principle of a portable unit - first the booster charges the battery, and then the power unit is started from the battery. Boosters can be household or professional, they differ in volume and size. In household boosters, the capacity is quite low, but it is usually enough to start one engine.
   Professional devices are full-fledged chargers that can start several cars, and the on-board network in such cars can be either 12-volt or 24 V. The advantage of boosters lies in their compactness and autonomy, but due to their size they can only be installed on flat surface.
4. Capacitor modules. In this case, the procedure for starting the motor is carried out according to a rather complex principle, the circuit of such devices is based on powerful capacitor devices. First of all, they are charged, after which the capacitors transfer the charge to start the motor. Capacitors charge quite quickly and they also quickly release their charge to start the internal combustion engine. As a result of the high cost of such modules, they are not so popular. Moreover, in practice, their frequent use can lead to accelerated wear and tear of the battery (the author of the video is the carpow carpow channel).

Selection options

The choice of the starting device is based on the voltage used in the car battery. In passenger cars, 12-volt batteries are usually used, in tractors - a 24-volt battery. If you doubt what kind of battery you have, then you need to pay attention to the marking of the device - the numbers 12 or 24 should be indicated on it. To ensure the normal start of the power unit, you can purchase an ordinary household PU, but if you drive a tractor, then for such an internal combustion engine you need to buy a device with a high current.

However, the main parameter to pay attention to is the starting current. The current may be different, it all depends on the specific battery, so in any case you will need to study the marking. It should also be borne in mind that the starting current indicator may be different, especially if the battery is discharged, and it is frosty outside.

If you have decided on the starting current, then pay attention to the volume of the PU. The choice of volume depends on the conditions under which the PU will be used. For example, for a light vehicle, the most the best option there will be a choice of a more compact device, the battery supply of which will be low. As for the same tractors or SUVs, in this case it is better to give preference to PU with a large margin. Moreover, the higher this indicator is, the better (the author of the video is the channel Made in the garage).

DIY instructions

If you decide to build a PU for your car, then at least you should have some kind of experience in electrical engineering. Of course, you can save a significant amount by self-assembly device, however, you will still need to spend money on its constituent elements.

Let's briefly consider the process of making PU at home:

1. First you need a transformer device, its minimum power parameter should be 500 watts.
2. In the primary winding, the cable cross-section must be at least one and a half mm2, as for the secondary winding, it must be removed.
3. After removing the secondary winding, a new one is installed, while you will have to wind a wire around it yourself. The number of turns on the winding can vary - in this case, the choice is made in a practical way. For example, you will wind ten turns of wire with any cross section, after which you will need to connect a transformer device and measure the voltage indicator. The resulting result is ultimately divided by ten, so you can calculate the voltage per turn. Then 12 volts should be divided by the number obtained as a result of the measurement - so you get the number of turns of one arm.
4. After manipulations on the calculation have been made, the secondary winding should be removed and another one should be put in its place, while the winding should be wound with a wire with a cross section of 10 mm2.
5. The next step is to connect diode elements. Alternatively, diodes removed from welding equipment can be used. Ultimately, the voltage level at idle should be no more than 12 volts. If, as a result, this indicator is higher or lower, then it will be necessary to either wind up or rewind a certain number of turns.
6. When the voltage is normal, you can proceed to the final stage of completing the assembly. If we take into account the fact that the current parameter at the output of the device will vary around 100 amperes, wires from the same welding equipment can be used as output cables.

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A dead battery can be a real problem for motorists. It should also be borne in mind that it is quite difficult to start a car in winter. In this regard, there is often a need to use a starting-charger. Today, many manufacturers are ready to offer this product. The characteristics of chargers are quite different. However, you can make a model of this type absolutely independently. For this purpose, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the device device, as well as learn its basic configurations.

Conventional charger circuit

Includes a threshold transformer and a series of resistors. The instrument coil is most often used at 20 V. It should also be noted that the models have a damper. It is designed for resonant vibrations. Expanders in chargers most often set of dynamic type. A wide variety of transistor blocks are used. To connect the model to the battery, clamps are used, which can be quite different in shape.

6 V device

The circuit of the starting-charger of this type of transformer assumes the use of a threshold. However, the first step is to make a solid case for the model. Making it yourself is pretty simple. For this purpose, it is important to select steel sheets with a thickness of about 2.3 mm. In this case, the foundation must be additionally strengthened. To do this, many experts recommend using to build a base. After that, the transformer is laid. The coil should be close to it. In this case, it is best to select a low-frequency damper.

The output voltage must be at the level of 5 V. It should also be noted that only dynamic expanders are suitable for a car of this type. Field capacitors are used. To install them, first of all, all contacts are cleaned. The elements are directly soldered using a blowtorch. At the end of the work, the appropriate clips are selected for the battery.

How to make a 10 V charger?

Making such a starting-charger with your own hands is quite simple. In this case, it is necessary first of all to deal with the case of the model. Some make it out of planks. However, in this situation, much depends on the size of the transformer. If we consider threshold analogs, then they weigh a lot. Thus, the base of the device must be solid.

It is also important to make the model transportable. To do this, at the top, it is necessary to fix the handles for carrying the device. In this case, it is better to install the transformer in the center of the base. After that, the damper is laid. If we consider linear resonant analogs, then they must withstand the minimum output voltage at a level of 10 V. In this case, the vector frequency should fluctuate around 44 Hz.

Further, in order to assemble a device of this type, you need to take an expander. Many in this situation give preference to capacitor-free modifications. However, in this case, the load on the transistors will be quite large. It is more expedient to select clamps for an autonomous starting-charger of an aluminum type. They are practically not subject to corrosion.

12V models

You can assemble this type of starting-charger with your own hands using electrostatic capacitors. It's pretty easy to get them these days. For this device, it is necessary to make a platform in the case. Before installing the transformer, a seal must be laid on it. Only then will it be possible to deal with the inductor.

It is selected most often with a primary winding. In this case, the capacitors for the model are more suitable for the open type. They are able to withstand the maximum output voltage at the level of 20 V. It should also be noted that expanders in this case must be installed last. It is important to secure the damper before doing this. In some situations, regulators are also used to control power.

In this case, it is required good block nutrition. It should also be noted that it can only be installed with a Zener diode. In order to fix the clamps to the device, you can use welding machine... At the end of the work, it remains only to fix the damper of the device. It is usually installed near the transformer. As the instruction says, the starting-charger must be checked for grounding before starting.

Single phase modifications

To make this type of starting-charger with your own hands, you will need an integrated transformer. Nowadays, these modifications are quite popular among motorcyclists. First of all, when assembling the device, it is recommended to prepare the entire necessary tool... In particular, for self-made selected high quality and together with a set of keys. For a 12-24V starter and charger, the case is made of metal sheets with a thickness of at least 1.4 mm.

In this case, you can twist them simply with screws. After that, it is important to place a rubber seal on the bottom of the case. Next, it will be possible to directly install the transformer. To fix it, many experts recommend making a special insert. It is a U-shaped emphasis. To do this, you need to take boards about 3.5 cm wide. In order to properly fasten them, you first need to measure the body. The next step is to install a damper on the 12-24V starting-charger.

In this case, it can be used of the resonant type. The specified component must withstand the output voltage at a level of 20 V. It should also be noted that capacitors for the model are bought only of open type. They are able to maintain a minimum frequency at around 45 Hz. At the end of the work, all that remains is to fix the power supply and solder the wires to fix it on the battery.

Two-phase devices

To assemble this type of starting-charger with your own hands, you will need to use a powerful transformer. At the same time, the coil must withstand its maximum output voltage at a level of 20 V. There are a variety of dampers suitable for the device. In this case, a lot depends on the type of capacitors. Some experts in this situation give preference to open modifications. They are able to serve quite a lot.

Only integral resistors are suitable for the device. Finding them in the store is easy, but they cost a lot. Further, to assemble the device, you will need to use a powerful expander. Dynamic type modifications are not suitable in this case. Induction models are considered to be more stable. In order to fix the clamps, it is necessary to use a cable with a diameter of about 0.4 mm.

Three-phase models

Circuits of this type involve the use of powerful transistor blocks. In order to install them, it is necessary first of all to prepare a site for them. In this case, the body can be built open type without a top. In this case, the car starting-charger can be transported on wheels. Transistors in this situation are selected network type. They can withstand a minimum output voltage of about 15 V.

The frequency parameter of these elements does not exceed 40 Hz on average. The transformer for the model is selected as a standard threshold type. In this case, the coil must be designed for low frequencies. The resonant damper for a car starting-charger of this type is selected. It must be installed only on the seal. Some specialists additionally install indication systems for three-phase modifications. They are needed in order to look at the panel for the output voltage level.

The use of a pulse transformer PP20

Device circuits include transformers of the PP20 series, as well as resonant-type dampers. Capacitors for the specified model are only suitable for the electrostatic type. It is necessary to start assembling the device by welding the base. For this, metal sheets are harvested with a thickness of about 2.2 mm. Primary coils are used quite often in this case.

A wide variety of display systems are suitable for this. In general, the above transformer can withstand the output voltage at a level of 15 V. Zener diodes are used only magnetic. Aluminum clamps can be successfully used as retainers. They have quite good conductivity, but they differ in shape. In this case, it is better to give preference to small-sized modifications.

The use of transformers PP22

Transformers of the PP22 type are very common today. Coils in this case are used with copper winding. Their density is quite high, and they are capable of serving for a long time. However, such devices still have disadvantages. First of all, it should be noted that models with the indicated transformer suffer from increased output voltage. Thus, sudden surges in the network can lead to complete overheating of the capacitors.

Also, resistors often fail. If an indication system is installed in the device, then the diodes burn out from overvoltage. It is only necessary to install transformers on the model with seals. In this case, the toggle switch for them is suitable for the P2 series. In turn, indicators are often used in the IN3 class.