A pistol made of wood with your own hands shooting with rubber bands. A simple gun that fires rubber bands. Diagram of the manufacture and assembly of a rubber-boom

Have a nice time of the day, Lord! In this article I will tell you and show you how I made such a wonderful weapon out of wood. I haven’t decided on the name, whether it’s a machine gun, or a minig, but that’s not the point. His main task is shooting with rubber bands, which he copes with with a bang. This homemade product does not pose any danger to people and animals, because it is a rubber shooter. I spent almost a month on its creation, cutting out, assembling, and gluing this unit in the evenings. I practically did not make any drawings, there were only small pencil sketches on A4 sheet. Everything was in my head and was done "by eye" (may the engineers forgive me). For this machine gun, I loaded 130 rubber bands, but you can charge 3 times more if you load not in one row, but in 3. Well, it's time to start showing and telling, because the article will not turn out small.

I will tell you the necessary materials and tools along the way.

Testing and making a rubber-boom can be seen in my video:

Step 1: I decided to make the rubber shooter from the stock. All parts will be made from a 20 mm thick board. I repeat, there are no drawings, everything is "by eye". After we have cut out all the necessary parts, we proceed to the assembly. I connected the parts with wood glue and self-tapping screws.

This is the stock that I got, it looks pretty nice :)

Step 2: Next, cut out 2 such overlays from the board. This will be the hilt. We make grooves with a chisel, as in the photo, they are needed so that the trigger is pressed and has a "stroke". We glue them together with wood glue, and tighten them with a clamp.

Step 3: From the same board we cut out just such a detail as in the photo. It will be the "base" since all the parts will be attached to it. Next, we make a small groove for the trigger. I cut the trigger from a piece of laminate. And then we glue the previously made handle and, for reliability, screw in 4 self-tapping screws.

Step 4: Then we cut out two of these parts. And we glue them to the base, and we also glue the butt.

Step 5: We make such a holder for the weapon bipod. Nuts are glued inside, and the bipods themselves will be bolted together.

Step 6: To make it convenient to hold our machine gun, cut out 5 of these u-shaped parts, and glue them into place.

Step 7: Next I made 11 of these sticks. Their length is slightly more than the length of the elastic band. Then I cut out two stars from the laminate. I glued all the sticks to the star with wood glue, and we got such a drum. The sticks need to be made as even and "rounder" as possible so that they stick tightly to the asterisk. Then, having made the markings, I drilled the holes for the nails, then pasted them in and shortened them to the desired length - 8-10 mm.

Step 8: Cold welded one bearing on each side. Then he replaced the drum in its place. The drum is installed on two axles, the axes are two bolts, which are tightly inserted into the bearings.

Step 9: Then we make just such a stand for the motor. I took the motor 12 V and installed it in its place. To hide the motor, I made this decorative protection.

Step 10: We glue a small bearing into a cylindrical block at one end, and on the other side we glue the cartridge that came with the motor. Then we install the cartridge on the motor shaft, and a bolt is inserted into the bearing.

Step 11: We glue decorative little things: sight, various small parts, trigger protection, etc.

Step 12: Let's start assembling the electrics. I took just such a button, and glued it with thermal glue in its place, so that the trigger, when pressed with a finger, pressed this button. Several rubber bands return the trigger to its original position. A block glued on top does not allow the trigger to rise up. Then we put together a simple circuit that includes a motor, a button, a box for 18650 batteries and a step-down module. I ordered all the components at a well-known Chinese store. Since the motor is 12v, and four batteries are almost 15V, a step-down module is definitely needed, the more they can regulate the speed of the motor, and therefore the speed of the shot of the rubber bands.

Choose a piece of wood suitable for the body of the gun (barrel and stock). It should be wood that is soft enough that you can cut grooves in the barrel of the gun. Plain wood is the cheapest and available materialalthough bamboo or other materials can also be used for the barrel.

• The stock should be about 60 centimeters long.
• Suitable wood for the hull can be cut from a fairly hard branch, plank or board.
• Perfect also wooden handles for tools sold at hardware stores.

Collect the rest of the parts needed for the gun. In addition to the barrel and stock, you will need a trigger and something you can use to attach it to the body of the gun. Thus, you will need:

• Clothespin (as a trigger)
• Pencil
• Glue (for wood, superglue, etc.)
• Rubber

Attach a clothespin to the body - this will be the trigger. The best place for a clothespin is determined by the type of gun you want to make. For the gun to be more powerful, attach the clothespin closer to the rear edge of the body. For a conventional shotgun, attach a clothespin ⅔ from the front edge of the barrel. Do it like this:

• Mark the future location of the clothespin with a pencil or knife.
• Glue the clothespin to the body with wood glue, super glue, or hot glue.
• Wait for the glue to dry completely.
• Note: The farther from the front edge of the barrel you place the clothespin, the tighter the elastic will stretch. If you stick the clothespin too far, it may not be able to hold the elastic and it will slip out of it.

Make an incision in the front of the trunk. Using a knife or other cutting tool (such as a small wood carving file), cut a groove in the front end of the trunk. This groove is where you will insert the elastic.

Load your gun. Take the rubber ring and insert one end of it into the groove you cut in the front of the barrel. After that, pull the free end of the elastic back to the clothespin itself. Open the clothespin and:

• Pull the elastic a little more so that the end is behind the front teeth of the clothespin.
• Snap on the clothespin by holding an elastic band in it.

Check if the elastic is tight and secure. Pull the elastic slightly with your fingers to make sure that the notch in the barrel is deep enough to prevent the elastic from slipping out. Then test the clothespin, making sure it is held securely in place.

• If the elastic slips out of the groove in the barrel easily, deepen it slightly.
• If the clothespin moves under the influence of the stretched elastic, secure it more securely with glue or tape.

As a child, did you like to shoot with rubber bands? Well, who didn't. Yes, we had a difficult childhood. Because we didn't have such a wonderful rubber-band pistol.

Do you want to remember your youth, or maybe you want to make a cool present for your son, brother, nephew or the offspring of friends? Then buy the Wooden Rubber Band Gun.

This miracle of engineering will allow you to accurately and very efficiently shoot pets, friends or even colleagues in the office. In this case, shooting will be completely safe wherever you hit. The exception is if you hit the boss, although there are options here.

The rubber band gun will appeal to both children and adults. It is positioned as a toy for boys and men, but you know, many ladies will also not refuse such a gift. Think about it and in no case buy them this pistol - you will be constantly under fire. Although ... it's better to buy two pistols and start a real war. Moreover, the cost of ammunition is just penny. And the ammunition itself is reusable.

Characteristics

• body material: wood;
• shells: ordinary "rubber bands for money";
• size: 22.5 * 10.9 * 2.1cm;
• weight: 85 g;
• age limit: for children from 5 years old.

About half a year ago, a chip flashed here, where the manufacture of a Nagant revolver from plywood was described. At my request, the author shared with me the drawings, and since then I have had another hobby, the design and manufacture of weapons that shoot rubber rings - rubber arrows.

See all photos in the gallery

Among my crafts are the Nagant revolver, Colt 1911, Lugger P1908, ultrasound, TT and Glock17.
German Walter P.38 - my first work, which I tried to somehow document. It turns out so far not good: while at work you often forget to take photos and shoot videos on time.

And so the rubber-shooter P.38. The target will receive a multi-charge, semi-automatic mechanism, the shutter must move when fired (blowback). The clip must be removed. Incomplete disassembly without tools into the same parts as an eccentric. Working shutter lag.

We are looking for photos and drawings of the original and start working in CAD. In my case, this is already an old Autodesk Inventor. Scale pictures, make a 2D sketch and outline the first little thing.

From 2D we "extrude" 3D of the required thickness. We will repeat it many, many times, connect creativity, figure out the layout, start assembling the 3D model. This is in case it is very short.
My profession is not related to 3D modeling and CNC. All this on the basis of a hobby and came to everything by trial and error, maybe something not according to generally accepted rules.

The 3D model is specially "painted" in bright colors, so it is easier to distinguish between design errors: intersections, contacts, etc.

Now we export DXF files of any part, group them into A4 sheets, so that we can later share the drawings with those who do not have a CNC, but have a printer and a jigsaw. And patience.

In the CAM postprocessor, we prepare a program for the CNC machine. We will mill with a milling cutter with a diameter of 1.5 mm to a depth of 4.3 mm in 2 passes.

And yes, I have homemade machine CNC with a working area of \u200b\u200b60x50cm, but that's another story. We go to the machine, start the program, and after about an hour we hold the blanks in our hands. A bit like a 3D puzzle.

Assembly can begin. It's no more difficult than assembling a lego or plastic kits. We skin every detail without fanaticism and cut off the excess. We glue with PVA glue.

Some parts have holes for centering in place - we use them during assembly.

And here you can see the device of the magazine latch and trigger. As long as we do not skin so as not to lose the thickness of the details.

Assembling the store, checking the "compatibility" with the frame. Should not wander around. We glue the shutter guides to the frame.

We collect the "bolt" and holders for the barrel. Trying everything on together.

Here you can see the rubber-boom automation device - a pair of a rotor and a separator assembly. The rotor is a square trifle, on the verge of which, when "loading", elastic bands are stretched, up to eight pieces. When fired, the separator deflects upward and allows the rotor to rotate 45 degrees, the rubber band breaks off the rotor. When the trigger is released, the separator allows the rotor to turn to its original state. You can shoot again.

We make a pistol barrel from a round piece of wood. This is the hardest little thing. Lathe so far only in plans.

We collect the rest of the little things: front sight, grips, etc. Preparing for grinding.

Subsequent grinding.

We bring to mind: We finish the little things. We cover the lining on the handle with stain, and the gun itself with special furniture oil. It doesn't shine that much.

And here is an incomplete disassembly without tools. Those in the know can compare with the original.

Assembly work - two weekend nights. Design and preparation approx. Week evenings.

Here's a homemade product for the weekend. Children of both sexes are happy with the result.
Bonus Glock and Lugger:

Links to videos in YouTube:
Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v\u003dVqPxWJBsGX0&t\u003d24s
Part 2:

In the laboratory of the Master's Secret, another sample of weapons was built - a rubber-shot pistol. The toy compares favorably with other previously built models with its multi-charge and the presence of the sound of a shot.

How to make a rubber-shooter pistol with your own hands

The finished development of the Parabellum pistol model was taken as a basis. The repetition of the pistol in comparison with the previous one (to watch for everyone who makes a rubber-shooter for the first time) turned out to be not very difficult, although one detail had to be redone, having clarified the drawing. The material of construction is simple - trimming of planed boards with a thickness of 15-20 mm, pieces of five-layer and three-layer plywood. You will also need: a piece of metal rod or nails with a diameter of 3-3.5 mm, six small screws or self-tapping screws with a countersunk head, PVA glue and a spring from a fountain pen. The tool for work is a jigsaw, a drill with a set of drills, a clamp, medium-grain sandpaper, a screwdriver, a metal saw or wire cutters.

Diagram of the manufacture and assembly of a rubber-boom

1. Download and print the blank. Link at the end of the instructions. We cut out the patterns of parts not along the contour and glue the patterns of parts F1 (handle), F2 (trunk), F3 (stop), M2 (trigger) on a piece of board, guided by the wood fibers (see photo). We glue templates P1 (box wall), M1 (shutter) on a piece of five-layer plywood. Glue template P2 (overlay) on a piece of three-layer plywood. The number of cut parts P1 and P2 is two pieces.

Rubber Shotgun

1. We cut out the details of the rubber thrower with a jigsaw according to the templates. We must show patience. The pistol requires precision, especially in the manufacture of moving parts of the bolt and trigger (M1 and M2). Assembly experience has shown that it is better to lengthen the trigger in the upper part by 2-3 mm. Make this mark immediately after gluing the template (see photo). When assembling and adjusting, it is better to undermine the part than to redo it. Be careful not to damage the template paper with the hole marks.

We prepare two metal axles, with a board thickness of 18 mm, the axes will be 32 mm long. The axles should be straight and the ends should be free of burrs and irregularities.

Drilling holes should also be taken with care. Be sure to screw the centers of the holes with your own hands before drilling - with a core, awl, nail. Holes for fixing screws in the sides of the box (detail P1) can be drilled with a 3 mm drill and the edges for the tapered head can be selected with a drill bigger size... Holes for metal axles (see drawing and photo) should be 0.1-0.2 mm larger than the axle diameter. That is, the axle should move in the hole, but not dangle.

Trigger modification Axle part

1. We drill a hole in the rubber gun shutter (M1), the hole diameter should be 0.1-0.2 mm less than the axle diameter. Drilling must be strictly vertical!

We drill a hole in the trigger (M2) along the axis diameter. You must also drill strictly vertically! If there drilling machinethen it will help a lot.

We clean all the parts with sandpaper, the handle of the gun and the trigger hook can be anatomically shaped, all protruding edges of the parts can also be rounded off. thoroughly clean the places where the rubber bands of the barrel and the bolt touch. Attention! Do not round off the valve points (M1)! Do not round off the upper edges of the trigger! If you are going to make a masterpiece, then you should consistently process the outer parts with sandpaper with a decrease in the grain number.

The trigger piece (M2) must rotate freely in the future box, therefore, its thickness must be reduced by 1-1.5 mm. This is done by sanding down the side surface with sandpaper.

We insert the axis into the trigger of the crossbow and with light hammer blows we insert the axis into the bolt (M1)

We put one pad on a flat surface and place the parts of the handle and barrel and the stop of the pistol and check the operation of the mechanism (watch the video). The handle should take its position and not interfere with the operation of the shutter and be a stop for the trigger in the extreme position of the shutter release. The barrel should also be a limiter for the movement of the trigger when the shutter is released. When cocked, the bolt must rest on the trigger plate. Understand and understand the work of the mechanism so that the actions for further work are deliberate. Sharpen the trigger support pad if necessary.

With a pencil, mark the position of the handle, barrel and stop on the side of the box. We cover the parts to be glued with PVA glue and, with the help of overlays, glue the rubber-barrel handle, the box wall, the barrel and the stop together in the designated places. The parts are tightened with a clamp until the glue is completely dry. Make no mistake about correct location details!

Wall marks Gluing parts
1. After gluing, we re-insert the moving parts and check the operation of the mechanism. A spring must be installed to return the trigger. For this, a hole is drilled in the trigger with a depth of 4-5 mm. Insert the trigger with the spring into place))). If necessary, shorten the spring slightly. Tests have shown that the spring from the handle constantly wants to pop out; for this, a small depression was made manually on the barrel stop (see photo), which solved the problem.

We install the second wall of the crossbow cover. After installation, the shutter should be located without distortions and rotate without much effort, and the trigger freely return to its original position after pressing. If this does not happen, eliminate the cause, it may be necessary to cut out a new wall if the holes are not made accurately. Holding the wall with your hands, check the operation of the mechanism for all four shutter positions. Remember the position of the wall.

Fasten the second wall with screws. To avoid cracking of parts, you can drill the parts with a thin drill of 1.5-2 mm. Perform control four shots. Does the rezinkostrel shoot? Hurrah. We install screws on the first wall.

Stick on pads to cover the bolt and trigger pins.

Parts glued together Check operation Spring hole Spring installed