That the crate is attached. Roof lathing nails. Types of roof frames

Lathing

The basis for the device roofing material is the crate. When installing it, it is necessary to observe a lot of nuances and subtleties. That is why the lathing for metal tiles should be performed, if not by professionals, then using professional instructions.

First of all, you need to understand what the crate is. This term is used to refer to a structure of beams and planks attached to the rafters perpendicularly. The lathing for metal tiles takes on the direct load from the roofing material and transfers it to the rafter legs, and then to the supporting structures of the entire building.

For the construction of the lathing, the following types of materials are used:

timber;
boards;
plywood.

There are several types of lathing structures.

Discharged.
Solid

Single-layer - structural elements are laid horizontally on the rafters, while the boards are parallel to the ridge.

Two-layer - a double layer of battens is assumed. In this case, the second layer in the direction of the ridge along the overhang, sometimes the bars of the second slope are laid diagonally on the first slope.

The theory of the structure of the lathing for metal shingles

Before the process of laying the roofing, care should be taken to create better conditions for a solid and reliable flooring, since for the construction of any type of roof, lathing with different pitches is required. Boards for counter-lattices for metal tiles can have different thicknesses. So, when buying material for lathing with a thickness of 30 mm, in fact, you will get elements whose width will differ relative to the declared ones within 5 mm.

This phenomenon is almost always observed. The only exception is a calibrated planed board. That is why, preparation for the installation of the lathing for laying metal tiles involves the calibration and alignment of the boards.

This procedure makes it possible to exclude on adjacent rows and joints of the sheathing, which differ in the width and thickness of the board. Since the use of boards of different sizes, significantly different in size, will lead to difficulties when laying metal tiles.

Using a board with a thickness of 30 mm allows you to have a margin necessary for cutting, which can reduce its thickness.

The board must be able to support the weight of even a large person. After all, when erecting a roof, it is planned to walk on boards. It is not recommended to use unedged or semi-edged boards when erecting the sheathing.

Lathing for metal tiles

The step of the lathing under the metal tile should be carried out according to the following rules:

The distance between the elements of the lathing beams is indicated in the instructions for the types of roofing. It is counted from the top of one board to the bottom of the second board.

The pitch of the battens is selected in accordance with the type of metal tiles, since different profiles require a different pitch.

Between the first two boards of the sheathing, the step value should be less than the elements of the beams.

The pitch of the lathing under the metal tile is influenced by the slope of the roof slope, as well as the size of the roof overhang beyond the extreme lathing bar.

The calculation of the pitch of the lathing can be influenced by the presence of a downpipe, which can have different widths and configurations. When fixing the drain to the frontal board, it is nailed to the ledge. The diameter of the gutter plays an important role. So, for example, with a gutter diameter of 9 cm, a protrusion of the same size is required, with 12 cm - a larger one.

The overhang of the roofing material begins to be calculated either from the rafter cut or from the frontal board. Thus, the steeper the angle of the roof slope, the lower the metal should be lowered in order to equalize the length of the ledge. If the calculation is incorrect, then the metal tile lathing may not be located where the metal tile should be fastened with self-tapping screws.

The distance between the two planks is calculated using a level. Next, measure the distance from the top point of the very first wave to the edge of the bottom of the sheet of metal, make a mark.

From the very edge of the frontal board, it is necessary to draw a line vertically to the previously established level and make a mark. Between the two marks made, a certain distance will be obtained between the bottom of the first board and the top of the second sheathing board, taking into account the protrusion of the roofing material and the slope of the slope.

The first sheathing board should be made thicker, as this will help to avoid the hanging protrusion when securing the roofing material.

The length of the other boards of the sheathing during the construction of the roof is measured from the top of the second board at regular intervals, corresponding to the roofing profile. Marks need to be applied across several rafters, as the board may end up crooked. In this case, you will have to take measures to level it so that the roof lies firmly and evenly.

After the first three or four rows of the sheathing are completed, the rest of the boards, for convenience, can be laid on the ramp.

Boards located in the same row of the crate should be connected on the rafters. Do not overlap boards under the roofing material. The difference in the joints must be carried out along the rafters.

We draw your attention to the fact that the crate should be docked on one rafter. This will ensure the rigidity of the structure.

Also, do not forget that the laying and calculation of the lathing must be done from top to bottom. And also take into account the length of the remaining roofing material.

We draw your attention to the fact that the crate should be docked on one rafter. This will ensure the rigidity of the structure. Also, do not forget that the laying and calculation of the lathing must be done from top to bottom. And also take into account the length of the remaining roofing material.

Installation of lathing for metal tiles: step-by-step instruction

It is necessary to select a bar for rafter legs next size: at least 5 by 15 cm, and under the crate at least 2.5 by 10 cm. for a counter-lattice, a 2.5 x 5 cm board is ideal.

The rafter step for the lathing should be about 6-9 cm.

The starting board is nailed strictly along the eaves so that it does not go behind it.

Please note that the thickness of the first board should be a couple of centimeters larger than the rest. This is necessary to compensate for the level of the support points of the entire tile module.

The pitch of the lathing elements is supposed to be such that the distance between the first board and the cornice is at least 5 cm, and between the subsequent ones - 30-40 cm. Between the rest of the boards, the pitch of the sheathing should be equal to the pitch of the metal tile profile, that is, 35-40 cm.

In order to check whether the distance between the first two boards of the sheathing is correctly chosen, it is necessary to lay out two board cuts on the ground, parallel to each other and at a certain distance, tile elements are applied to them and determine whether the roof overhang is sufficient for water drainage. If the overhang is too large, water may overflow over the edge of the gutter. Too small a ledge will cause the wind to blow water between the frontal board and the gutter. In addition, there is some possibility of deformation of the sheets under the load from snow.

It is necessary to start the markup from the first board overlooking the cornice. Perform e with a tape measure.

Above the crate, a windboard should be arranged. Depending on the type of tile, the height of the sheet can vary from 3.5 to 5.5 cm.

In the places where the ridge is attached, for greater strength, additional boards are hammered, with a section of 3 by 10 cm. This should also simplify its further installation.

In the process of planning an organized drain, before starting the installation of the roofing material, it is necessary to install brackets to fix the gutters. The eaves punk is installed before the installation of metal tiles on the eaves of the roof.

First, you need to determine the places for fixing the bracket, which are fastened in 5-6 cm increments and attached to the bottom of the lathing.

The gutter is inserted into the brackets and secured. The eaves plank is fixed to the lathing in such a way that the edge of the gutter is covered by the edge of the plank. It is this overlap that is able to ensure the drainage of condensate from the strip into the gutter. The length of the overlap must be at least 10 cm.

Sheathing device for metal tiles: solid sheathing option

In construction, a solid type of lathing is used. It is laid out with the help of beams, between which there should be gaps of 1-2 cm, and in a discharged crate - about 3-5 cm.In addition to metal tiles, a solid crate is also suitable for different types soft roof and various types of natural slate.

Please note that the solid lathing should be located on the overhangs of the eaves and on the sloping intersections of the roof (ribs, valleys, ridge).

Before starting the device with a continuous crate, you should take care of an anti-condensation film. If, according to the plan, the roof structure provides for insulation (as is the case with a residential attic), then it is necessary to use a film to protect the insulation from condensation and blowing. If you do not use film, most likely the attic will turn out to be cold and damp. Because roof structures and the lathing will remain unprotected from environmental influences.

We also draw your attention to the fact that the selected film should be laid on top of the rafters, from the bottom of the roof.

Horizontal stripes overlap each other about 15 cm. Also, do not stretch the film. For its better functioning, sagging of several centimeters is necessary. The film is fixed along the rafters with special bars, the width of which, in cross section, is equal to the width of the rafters themselves, and the thickness, at the same time, is at least 4 cm.

After the installation of the film flooring has been completed along the entire roof, the next step is to install the sheathing for the metal tile, on which the metal tile will subsequently be fixed. In the case when the roof structure does not provide for the flooring of the film insulator, then the horizontal lathing is fixed directly on the rafters. The boards used for the lathing device should be treated with antiseptic solutions and have a cross section of about 3 cm. Any so-called inch board is suitable here. It should be borne in mind that the boards must be adjusted both in length and in thickness. It is on this that the even position of the roofing elements depends. However, the lowest board should be a couple of centimeters thicker than the rest.

The first board should be attached to the bottom of the rafters. Boards must be fixed in several places with self-tapping screws or nails, this is necessary so that they do not turn out. The pitch of the planking can be equal to the pitch of the wave of the tile, or it can be solid, without gaps. In the case of their curvature, fixing the sheets of metal tiles will be complicated.

Correctly executed lathing can significantly reduce the percentage of noise arising from the effects of wind, rain and other weather disasters.

In the same way as in the case of a discharged lathing, a continuous lathing is completely covered with a layer of film waterproofing. The end of the film is fixed along the roof cornice so that it hangs down and completely covers the roof surface.

We draw attention to the need to leave a distance between the lined film and the rafters. This distance should be about 2 cm. On top of the waterproofing, bars should be fixed, on which a layer of counter-lattice is later laid.

Roof lathing

You should take bars with a minimum cross section of 4 by 2.5 cm. The next layer after the counter-lattice is nailed down. In this case, one should be very careful about calculating the step of the metal-tile wave. And it is at this distance that the sheathing bars should be placed.

The board facing the cornice should be installed several tens of centimeters wider than other sheathing boards.

The end strip of the lathing is arranged above all other elements of the lathing approximately at the height of the sheet of metal tile.

In addition, a couple of boards should be laid at the ends of the ridge strip, carefully fixing them. This is necessary to enhance the strength of the structure.

In the rafter system, the ridge board must be securely fixed.

The gutter groove is attached to the lowest roof sheathing board.

In places near valleys, pipes and around the perimeter of the ear holes and roof windows the counter-lattice is laid by a continuous method.

For internal and external cladding, it is advisable to use anodized galvanized screws or nails during the installation of the roof. From ordinary nails, at the first rain, the lining will be damaged.

After the work on the construction of the lathing has been completed, they begin to install the metal tile.

In conclusion, a few tips for building from a tree:

boards should be treated with antiseptic, refractory materials;
after the installation of the boards is completed, make sure that the coating does not have sagging, bumps or protruding caps from screws and nails;
the finished crate must be so strong that it does not sag under a person;
for the manufacture of flooring, it is worth using wide boards;
well dried material must be used;
the joints of the boards on the rafters should be staggered;
boards should be nailed along the edges, and the hats should be sunk in the wood;
you should responsibly approach the purchase of building material; check the boards for distortions, cracks and other structural changes.

As a result, the construction of the lathing is not a difficult process, but a responsible one. The quality and service life of the roofing material depends on how competently the installation is made.

For construction, it is extremely important to choose quality material... Thus, if you use raw boards, then the fasteners will not last long and will quickly loosen. Since the boards are subject to shrinkage, over time, during the drying process, they will change in size.

In addition, the construction of low-quality material is more susceptible to damage from snow loads.

Most of the materials are not attached directly to the building envelope, but through an “intermediary”. This is both more convenient and, if necessary, simplifies the repair. In some cases, this method of installation is a mandatory technological condition. A specialized frame designed for such installations is called a crate. Further in the article, we will talk about how the lathing is being installed, what it is, and by what rules it is calculated.

Although the most common design that uses a batten is pitched roofs, but there are other planes where it suits. The most popular option is a wooden crate, but there are also metal structures.

If we generalize all the cases when a crate is arranged, we can deduce three large groups:

Roofing device
Installation interior walls and partitions
Creation of ventilated, hinged and other decorative facades

As a rule, in the last two cases, the crate looks really like a checkered structure. On the roof, the options can be very different.

The carrier system layout is determined by the coating material used and is calculated separately in each case.

According to this principle, the following types can be distinguished:

The usual pitch of the lathing - as a rule, is within 20-40 cm between the bars or boards
Sparse - when the distance between elements is 50-75 cm, sometimes more
Solid sheathing - made of boards with a distance of up to 10 mm between them (the gap is made to avoid damage to the roof in case of swelling or drying of the boards). Dry tes are laid close, sometimes a tongue-and-groove connection is arranged. Also, sometimes they arrange a construction of solid sheet materials: OSB, moisture-proof chipboard or plywood

TIP! When constructing a lathing of boards, each of them is attached to each rafter with two nails along the edges. It is impossible to nail the boards with one nail in the center, since in the case of unscrewing the roofing flooring can be damaged.

As a rule, the pitch of the lathing depends on the size of the roofing material and its rigidity: the longer the length of its unit, the less often the timber or boards are placed.

It is also arranged when constructing curvilinear or complex-shaped roofs.

The thickness of the lathing may vary. Sometimes they arrange a crate in two layers. In this case, the lower layer can be sparse, and the upper one - continuous. The first level is arranged parallel to the roof ridge, and the second can be located perpendicular to it, or diagonally.

It is also provided for the manufacture of a crate in two layers when laying a thick insulation - for example, foam with a thickness of 100 mm. In this case, across the rafters, two bars of 50x50 mm are packed sequentially, one on top of the other.

Usually the lathing is arranged from a bar of 50x50, 50x60, 60x60 or 75x75 mm, as well as from a board from 20 to 50 mm. In this case, the width of the board should not exceed 150 mm, since the wider material is prone to increased deformation under the influence of dampness and temperature.

The calculation of the lathing is carried out in conjunction with the rafter system, since both the step of the beam and its section will depend on the step of the rafters.

Important information! The length of the fasteners (nails or screws) is taken as double the thickness of the batten material). For example, for a 50x50 bar, this is 100 mm. The fastening of the battens is carried out in each roof rafter.

Boards and beams should not have protruding knots and other defects, and for fragile coating materials such as slate - and significant recesses.

For a roof made of rolled materials, the joints of the unedged board are sheathed with galvanized iron, and in the places of bends and abutments, the corners of the board or timber are rounded so as not to damage the elastic coating.

Also, with solid pieces of metal, the outermost 30 cm of the battens are sheathed in the place of the roof overhang.

The order of work is usually as follows:

On the extreme rafters, mark the location of the beams or sheathing boards
Along the entire slope, the points of attachment of the beams or boards are measured with a cable

An example of a solid sheathing

Important information! It rarely happens that wooden lathing arranged from a solid board or timber. Typically, the standard length of lumber is much shorter than the ramp length. Therefore, the elements of the lathing have to be spliced \u200b\u200balong the length. This is done in such a way that the joint of the timber falls on the rafter, the edges of both spliced \u200b\u200bpieces are fastened with nails. It is important to ensure that in adjacent horizontal rows the joints are displaced, fall on different bars. For this, the lumber is cut to the appropriate length.

Regardless of what is the main distance between the roof lathing, in places of valleys and grooves (concave joints of slopes), it is arranged solid, perhaps using sheet material, sometimes tin
For the elements passing through the roof - various parapets or chimneys, their own crate is arranged, which is calculated separately. For example, for a chimney - in any of its parts it must be at a distance of at least 150 mm, and without thermal insulation for ceramic pipes - and 250 mm

TIP! The lathing should be arranged in dry weather, immediately before laying the roofing material. Wet bars or boards will definitely start to warp

Immediately after installing the lathing, a layer of insulation is laid, if such is designed, and a waterproofing film is attached with a stapler on top of the beams

With advance calculation and cutting of lumber, the installation of the lathing is greatly accelerated and takes less effort. Therefore, it is worthwhile to devote additional time to preliminary preparation, and to conduct it efficiently.

Installation of wooden lathing: distance between fasteners, step, thickness

601) Installation of a wooden lathing is a simple matter if you know how to calculate the distance between the fasteners or the step, the thickness of the beams themselves. And it is about this and

Why do you need a roof lathing, what happens, what material to choose

It is impossible to equip a roofing system without lathing, the laying of which is carried out over the rafter legs. It serves as a place for direct attachment of the final roof cladding.

What does the roof consist of?

Thanks to the roof, the building not only gets decorated appearance: it also has a protective function to prevent rain, snow, heat and cold from entering the floors. In addition, due to the roof, the impact is noticeably reduced. wastewater on walls and basement surfaces, which significantly increases their service life. Most often, there are 2 or 4 slopes on the roof of a building: moreover, the second design involves several options for arrangement.

The usual gable roof includes:

Rafters... To connect these vertical or horizontal supports, a corner joint is usually used, equipped with bolts and brackets.
Mauerlat... This bar is located in a horizontal position. It relies on individual elements rafter.
Overhangs... This is the name of the lower sections of the rafters.
Ridge... It is located on top of the structure, in the area where the rafters meet.
Lathing, counter-lathing... Basic parts for laying roofing materials and insulation.
Waterproofing and insulation materials... With their help, warm attics are equipped.
Roof decking... Can be hard or soft.

In general, the roof is divided into cold and warm subspecies. The first option provides for the installation of thermal insulation in the attic space: the roof in this scheme is not insulated. The second method involves laying insulation and waterproofing. Basically, this approach is used to design attic residential floors.

Purpose of the battens in the roofing system

Thanks to the crate, the following tasks are achieved:

There is a reliable fastening of the roofing materials.
In this case, the space between the roof and the insulation is well ventilated: this is especially important for adjacent areas of warm and cold roofing layers.
It is convenient to fix a layer of insulation and waterproofing on the roof lathing.
The rafter system receives overload protection in cases of heavy snow.

What tools and materials will be needed

Before making the roof lathing, you should prepare the following tools and materials:

First grade timber, 6 m long, free of knots and other defects. The section is selected depending on what kind of finishing material will be used. For metal tiles, you will need products with a section of 50x50 mm, the metal roof is equipped with a 60x40 mm bar. Ceramic tiles laid on a bar with square section 75x75.
Edged board 25x100 mm, 6 m long. Small flaws in the form of rare knots are allowed here. Some cases involve the replacement of boards with OSB boards, plywood or chipboard panels.
Hacksaw, chainsaw.
Polyurethane foam.
Hammer, puncher.
Bolts with nuts large sizes... Fastening is also carried out with staples and nails.
Building level, tape measure.

Varieties of roof lathing

Studying the question of how to make the roof lathing correctly, it is important to know about the most popular system designs. Choice suitable option lathing directly depends on the used roofing material.

There are two main types of crate:

Solid... When laying the beams, a gap of 10 mm is assumed. A continuous crate is usually constructed under soft shingles, roll stacking, flat slate or metal shingles. To give the roof additional reliability, the structure is fixed over the eaves overhangs, as well as at the junction areas of the slopes. When making a choice in the direction of this crate, you need to prepare for a significant consumption of material.
Sparse... In this case, the gap between the timber can reach several centimeters, which is very convenient for laying natural tiles, metal sheets and wave slate.

We mount the roofing crate with our own hands

After the rafter system is fully equipped, the roof is carefully measured. This is done with a rope, which makes it easier to measure the diagonals. When comparing two indicators, it is desirable that they do not differ from each other by more than 20 mm. If this tolerance is exceeded, subsequent work may run into certain difficulties. Next, the vapor barrier and insulation are laid, in the form mineral wool or other suitable material.

Do-it-yourself roof lathing is assembled on top of a previously laid waterproofing film, when laying it, an overlap of 15 cm is observed.It is most convenient to mount the canvases from the top and down, taking the rafters for the directions. A construction stapler is suitable for fastening the film. On top of the rafters, the planks are stuffed to create a counter-lattice.

It is important not to forget about the ventilation gaps separating the film and the roofing material to be laid. Simply put, it is important to leave sagging when laying the film. The same method is used to separate the film and insulation. To simplify the task of how to correctly make the lathing on the roof, a lathing template is used, which is designed to strictly adhere to the design parameters.

If a soft roof is laid, then the installation of the lathing elements is carried out by the method of alignment and joining. In order to avoid subsequent deformation, the solid structure must be fastened with particular care, using at least two nails on each beam.

How to attach under roll material

For the installation of rolled canvases, you need a solid-type roof sheathing made of beams and boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm. In this case, the flooring must have a dense, without cracks, laying. The step of the lathing is chosen at least 15 cm, otherwise the roofing material will begin to deform. It is important to achieve the ideal smoothness of the lathing surface, with the obligatory sinking of the nail heads and screws deep into the wood.

How to make under a soft roof

Installation of soft-type roof sheathing occurs most often, due to the high popularity of this roof. Such material is inexpensive, and it is very easy to mount it. Here you will also need to equip a solid-type crate, which is equipped with a special calibrated board. Such a laying has a two-layer structure, while observing the maximum evenness of the joints.

Under these conditions, tongue-and-groove boards and roofing plywood, which have undergone preliminary antiseptic impregnation, have proven themselves well. In order to avoid damage to the soft roof in the corner sections, the ends of the boards must be rounded off.

Under the shingles

According to experts, it is tiled roofs that have the most optimal performance characteristics in terms of quality and durability. Usually these are single-layer structures, the crate for which is equipped with bars with a cross section of at least 6 cm.

The laying step is based on the dimensions of the tiles used. Some situations involve the creation of a double sheathing, from the same material. To achieve uniformity of adhesion of the tiles, it is required to build the most even plane of the structure. This implies using a block of the same size.

What is the difference between the crate for slate and metal tiles

For arranging the lathing, one or two layers of laying can be used. The first option involves the use of a square beam of 50 mm. Optimal step in this case - 50 cm, with the elements laying in a parallel direction to the ridge. If a unified profile is used instead of the usual corrugated slate, then the step can be increased to 80 cm, with an increase in the section of the timber to 75 mm. The main thing is that there should be at least three crossbars under each slate span.

The cornice is most loaded in this structure, so its thickness should be increased. Skates and overhangs are made with solid flooring. To achieve an even distribution of the load and the density of the sheet stacking, the even beams are made thicker than the odd ones by 30 mm. In order for the structure to serve as long as possible, then before attaching the crate to the roof, all of it wooden parts need to be processed special formulations fire-fighting and antiseptic action (in more detail: “How and what to treat the rafters and crate - choose an antiseptic”). To apply them, you will need a paint brush: impregnation is carried out in two layers.

To test the quality of the fire extinguishing agent, it is enough to chop off a small piece of treated wood and try to set it on fire. A well-protected material ignites only when exposed to an open flame: after its removal, the substance immediately extinguishes.

Competent design and arrangement of the roof will be the key to both the aesthetic beauty of the house and its protection from all external influences. At the same time, it is important to achieve good quality of each individual part roof structure... The lathing, despite its invisibility, plays a very important role, therefore, when arranging it, it is important to comply with all the necessary requirements and norms, how to make a roof lathing. Particular attention is paid to the selection of suitable building materials appropriate quality.

Roof lathing: how to fasten, installation on the roof, how to make the right roof lathing with your own hands

Although the most common structure in which the lathing is used is pitched roofs, there are other planes where it is suitable. The most popular option is a wooden crate, but there are also metal structures.

The order of work is usually as follows:

If there are bulges on the rafters in the places where the timber passes, they are cut off
In the case when a vapor barrier is planned, it is laid on the rafters, fixed with a stapler. In this case, the laying begins from the ridge, with the overlap of the panels through it. If the membrane is transparent, the measuring cords can be removed completely. Otherwise, when laying, the film is slipped under the twine.
If there are recesses on the rafters under the future timber, they are leveled using stuffed rails, a set of pieces of roofing material of the required thickness
Bars or boards begin to be fastened from the ridge beam, depending on the coating material and the chosen method of device of the ridge knot - at a distance from the run from 40 to 150 mm for each slope
As a rule, the lathing is installed in pieces, while the slope area is closed at the same time, determined by the length of the existing timber or board. Then move on to the next run.

Important information! It rarely happens that a wooden lathing is arranged from a solid board or bar. Typically, the standard length of lumber is much shorter than the ramp length. Therefore, the elements of the lathing have to be spliced \u200b\u200balong the length. This is done in such a way that the joint of the timber falls on the rafter, the edges of both spliced \u200b\u200bpieces are fastened with nails. It is important to ensure that in adjacent horizontal rows the joints are displaced, fall on different bars. For this, the lumber is cut to the appropriate length.

Regardless of what is the main distance between, in places of valleys and grooves (concave joints of slopes), it is arranged solid, possibly using sheet material, sometimes tin
For the elements passing through the roof - various parapets or chimneys, their own crate is arranged, which is calculated separately. For example, for a chimney - in any of its parts it must be at a distance of at least 150 mm, and without thermal insulation for ceramic pipes - and 250 mm

TIP! The lathing should be arranged in dry weather, immediately before laying the roofing material. Wet bars or boards will definitely start to warp

Immediately after installing the lathing, a layer of insulation is laid, if such is designed, and a waterproofing film is attached with a stapler on top of the beams

The roof is considered one of the foundations that ensure the comfort of the house, protection from the negative effects of atmospheric factors. That is why the process of its arrangement must be organized rationally and correctly down to the smallest detail. It is obvious that the laying of the material for the roof must be carried out in full compliance with the technical recommendations and the requirements of SNIP. The lathing and counter-lathing of the roof are one of the most important elements on which the reliability and quality of the equipped roof depends in the future.

One of them serves as the basis for the installation of roofing material and creates a gap between the latter and the insulation layer, and with the help of the other they create additional ventilation ducts for the roof space. Therefore, the question "how to make a roof lathing" does not lose its relevance. In fact, this structure, laid out from a row of boards nailed to rafter system, is an "intermediary" between the roof covering and the enclosing structures. Among other things, through it, the roof load is evenly distributed over the supporting frame.

Types of battens depending on the roofing material

The battens (formwork) are of two types:
- sparse - they are used more often for sheet corrugated material, the minimum distance between the battens is 40–50 mm. As a material, a bar is used for lathing with a section of 50 by 40-50 or boards: width 10-20 cm, thickness 2.5-3 cm.
- solid - are made of grooved boards (2.5x10 cm), and nowadays they are more often made of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB3, with a gap between the parts of 1 cm.This type is mainly used for piece roofing materials.
As a rule, continuous formwork is performed as follows. A sparse form is mounted and a second layer of formwork is made on it. There are two variants of execution here:
- they are stuffed onto the sparse formwork, closely laying one to the other dry boards (preferably grooved). They should be located at an angle of 45 ° in relation to the first layer - the sparse formwork;
- on the first - they attach sheet materials, such as moisture resistant plywood.
Thus, in order to lay the roof, it is necessary to make a special frame: first, repeating the pattern of the rafters, mount the counter-lattice, after which, already across them, the frame itself is nailed, on which the roofing is laid.

The structure of the frame is determined by the type of roof. For example, in the case of metal tiles for installation, square-section bars (□ 50, □ 60) are used, which are laid with a certain step. At the same time, continuous flooring is performed under bituminous tiles or roll coating using waterproof plywood or thin boards.

These structural elements make it possible to make the roof covering from the selected material solid and provides the strength of the roof structure.

How to make a roof sheathing, which board to use and how to fix it

Installation of the frame under the flooring is performed from materials such as: timber, plywood, boards (preferably grooved), tesa (in the case of a solid version). When choosing lumber, it should be at least second grade and without a single knot. It is not recommended to use unedged boards or beams, as this may affect the quality of the future roof structure. In extreme cases, their edges will need to be cut off.

To avoid warping, the maximum width of the board should be 150 mm - using too wide can damage the roof.

If the lumber is not dry enough, the timber will dry out over time and loosen the fasteners. All wooden elements supporting structure must undergo a mandatory antiseptic treatment, which will protect them from damage by pests and decay.

There is no such frame only in houses with flat roofs, for pitched roofs, a similar design is required. Moreover, the steeper the slope, the, say, the crate gable roof, has a smaller step.

For normal operation and durability of the roof structure, it is necessary to provide a specific humidity regime. Since houses are usually heated, then with an incorrectly made roof, warm air coming from indoor spaces, will settle in the under-roof space in the form of condensation.

Double crate mansard roof practically lifts the covering above the insulation layer and provides ventilation in the under-roof space. That is, water vapor and atmospheric moisture that have got there from the interior of the house are easily blown out, and the structure will thus be protected from decay.

Double decking must not have
- gaps larger than 6 mm (if this is not the case, then cover the gaps using strips of roofing steel);
- should not bend from the weight of a person;
- the boards should be docked on the rafters and staggered.
It is also important with what nails to nail the crate and how. They are hammered closer to the edges of the lumber, slightly sinking the caps into the wood. The length of the nails is chosen from the calculation - twice as long as the thickness of the board to be nailed. In this case, the consumption of nails for the lathing is 10 pcs / m 2.

In the photo: the frame serves as the basis for fixing the lining

Wherever you sheathed surfaces, be it a balcony, a bathhouse or a living room, first of all, a lathing is constructed under the lining. In this review, we will figure out how to build a structure from a wooden bar and what nuances to pay close attention to. All recommendations have been tested in practice, therefore, using them, you will be able to carry out the work yourself.

Description of work

In order for the lathing for the lining to be strong and durable, it is necessary to observe a certain technology of work.

It consists of three stages:

Calculation and purchase of material.
Preparing the bar for use.
Installation of the structure.

Each step is important, so read the entire overview carefully to rule out mistakes when working.

The first stage is the calculation and acquisition of material

To work, we need a very simple set of materials:

Wooden block.
Fasteners. See the article.
Insulation (if necessary).

FEATURE 1: frame positioning step. The optimal distance between the elements of the lathing is from 40 to 60 cm. If the lining is thin, then it is better to place the bars more often, this will give the structure additional rigidity. The distance can be different if the length of the walls does not allow keeping the same spacing of the elements.
FEATURE 2:If there are openings, a bar must be fixed along the perimeter. When it comes to doorways, it is better to mount two racks at all to strengthen the system. It is advisable to fasten the guides from above and below.

FEATURE 3:when used, the thickness of the bar must be at least the thickness of the heat-insulating material. The most commonly used option is 50x50 mm or 50x40 mm.
FEATURE 4:When purchasing material, pay attention to its moisture content. It should be no more than 15%. Damp elements can deform or crack when dry, so they should not be used.

Draw an approximate lathing scheme with the element spacing and their location. This will allow you to accurately calculate required amount material and not buy an extra bar.

FEATURE 5:insulation is calculated based on the area on which it will be mounted;
FEATURE 6:fasteners are selected based on the type of base. For concrete and bricks, quick-assembly dowels are needed, for wood, self-tapping screws or nails are used.

Second stage - preparation of the bar

The finished material must be prepared accordingly.

The instructions for carrying out the work look like this:

STEP 1: the material should be put for a couple of days in a room that will be finished. This will allow the bar to acclimate so that its temperature and humidity are the same as in the room.
STEP 2:elements are treated with an antiseptic composition. This can be done with a regular brush, treating all surfaces in order. You can do otherwise and make a trough out of the boards, which is covered with foil. An antiseptic is poured there, and the bar is simply dipped, this option provides the highest quality protection.

STEP 3:while the products are drying, you can prepare the walls. To do this, markings are applied on the surface along the width of the arrangement of the racks. The work is done with a pencil and a level so that the lines are even. This will allow you to visually see how the structure will look and will simplify the work, you will not need to be distracted by controlling the correct position of the elements;

STEP 4:measurements are taken to determine the length of the bars. It is better to do this in several places, as the walls or ceiling may be uneven;

Do not forget to leave gaps of 5-10 mm so that the bar does not rest and deform when the temperature and humidity changes.

STEP 5:the bar is cut with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Here it is important to correctly mark the elements and cut them perpendicularly so that the ends are even. It is also advisable to treat the cut areas with an antiseptic so that the bar is completely protected from moisture and pests.

The third stage is the installation of the frame

Let's figure out how to make a crate for a lining with our own hands.

The workflow looks like this:

STEP 1:first you need to drill holes in the bar. The diameter depends on what kind of fastener will be used. At the same time, remember that it is better to make holes under the self-tapping screws to make them easier to tighten. The fasteners are located in increments of 40-50 cm, the minimum distance from the edge is 30 mm.

STEP 2:The attachment points are also marked on the wall, and, if necessary, drilling is performed. For work, a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter is used. Remember that for reliable fastening, the self-tapping screw or dowel must protrude into the surface by at least 50 mm. See also the article.

STEP 3:if the irregularities on the wall or ceiling are very significant, then it is easier to fix the bar with suspensions. They are located along the line every 50 cm and are fixed perpendicular to the crate. The price of such fasteners is low, so the project costs will increase slightly.
STEP 4:when fastening, the ends of the suspension are bent to the bar, after which it is leveled and fixed in the desired position. This option is very convenient because of its simplicity and accuracy, so you can level any base very quickly.

That the crate is attached. Roof lathing nails. Types of roof frames

The theory of the structure of the lathing for metal shingles

Installation of lathing for metal tiles: step-by-step instruction

Sheathing device for metal tiles: solid sheathing option