We make a beautiful attic floor with our own hands. What do you need in order to build a quality mansard roof with your own hands? DIY step-by-step construction of an attic

The attic does not have to be used as a storage place for unnecessary things. Very often, the area of \u200b\u200bthis room allows you to equip it with a full-fledged living area or a place for family leisure, or a hobby. The idea of \u200b\u200bsuch construction has been successfully applied since the middle of the 17th century thanks to the French architect François Mansard and is especially relevant for increasing the area of \u200b\u200ba private house, and sometimes even city apartments.

How to make an attic habitable, what activities should be carried out for this and how to build an attic where it has never been? Look for answers to these questions in our article.

We build an attic

The attic device will help to significantly reduce construction costs in general, rationally use the available floor space and implement the most daring ideas. The attic floor can occupy both the entire attic and its part, depending on the purpose of the future premises: bedroom, study, office or bathroom.

Cozy attic with your own hands

Do-it-yourself attic construction also provides the following advantages:

• The infrastructure of the main building is fully used.
• Living space is increasing significantly.
• Reduction of heat loss through the roof and, as a result, a decrease in energy consumption in the cold season.
• Relatively simple installation (without the use of special equipment) and the ability to stay in the house during construction.
• Possibility of building a one- or two-level floor.

How to make an attic a unique architectural element

Important: When building an attic floor with your own hands, you need to consider design features buildings, including: the height of the walls, the shape of the roof, the location of communications - and comply with fire safety requirements.

Features of the construction of the attic floor

A roof is a fencing structure, which, in addition to precipitation and temperature changes outside, is subject to influences from the inside: heat and moisture from the living quarters, which can cause dampness and corrosion. Therefore, during the construction of the attic floor, very strict requirements are put forward for hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation of the roof, the observance of which will ensure reliable protection of the premises from negative factors.

How to properly isolate attic floor during construction

Also, when building an attic floor, it is important to take care of high-quality ventilation, which is installed between the insulation and the roof. This will remove excess moisture and ventilate the attic.

Particular attention should be paid to the construction technology and the materials used in this case (especially their weight) - this will ensure the safe operation of the attic floor in the future. In addition, do not forget that the use of the attic floor as a living space does not eliminate compliance with the technical requirements for the operation of the roof.

Where to start construction?

Before starting construction, a technical examination of the building is carried out. It is worth remembering that initially the walls and foundation of the building were designed for a certain load, and the construction of an additional floor will significantly increase it, so you should make sure of their bearing capacity.

Construction frame attic

Design

The next stage of construction will be the development and approval of the attic floor project - for this it is better to contact qualified specialists, which will help to draw up a competent drawing, calculate the load and estimate.

Important: If the construction of the attic with your own hands is carried out within the city limits, then for this it is necessary to obtain permission from the city authorities, an expert opinion and the consent of all owners of the building.

The attic floor plan is developed based on the layouts of the main building, with the geometry of the roof playing the dominant role. The architectural appearance of the house will have an impact not only on the structure of the rafter system, but also on the materials used in the construction and individual elements attic. All structures and parts should be as lightweight as possible, which will ensure minimum load on the walls of the building and will provide easy lifting of materials to the floor.

If the roof of the house has a large slope, then the choice of roofing materials, insulation and waterproofing during the construction of the attic floor should be approached especially carefully.

In addition, all communications of the attic floor must be interconnected with the systems in the house, and their joint operation should be ensured.

The shape of the room, as well as its dimensions, determine the choice of windows, their design and placement in the interior.

Attic construction

Regardless of whether the attic is being built with your own hands, the photo below, in an existing attic or being built from scratch, it is necessary to ensure the unity of architectural and design solutions.

You can add a wooden attic on a brick house

The attic structure is best made of wood (from timber) or metal profile, in addition, it is possible to complete the floor from SIP panels, as in the photo below. Stone materials, including brick and concrete, are not recommended for use in construction due to their heavy weight. As a last resort, you can use aerated concrete blocks.

We build an attic with our own hands using SIP panels

Strong but lightweight materials are also suitable for the roof, such as: profiled sheets, bituminous or composite shingles, metal shingles.

Since the attic has a large surface area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the environment and significant heat loss occurs through the roof, it is necessary to take care of high-quality and effective thermal insulation of this floor. For insulation, it is best to use mineral wool or fiberglass with a thickness of 150 mm or more. On the inside of the attic floor, the insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier, and on the side of the roof - with waterproofing. In addition, a ventilation system must be installed between the waterproofing and the roof, which will ensure the removal of excess moisture.

Since the attic is a living space, it needs natural light, which will help to provide windows. These can be either ordinary vertical window structures that are mounted in the walls, or special sloped windows installed in the roof plane at an angle of 15-90 degrees.

Roof windows - expensive but effective

Important: Skylights let in more light than standard windows with a smaller opening area. To ensure the most efficient and even illumination, the ratio of window area to floor area should be 1:10.

The final stage of the attic floor arrangement will be finishing work... The most simple option for cladding the walls of the attic floor is drywall, from which it is possible to construct internal partitions. GKL sheets are attached to the frame made of a metal profile, after which they are putty and can be applied topcoat: paint, wallpaper, etc. In addition to drywall, the walls can be sheathed with clapboard, wooden panels - the choice of material depends on the purpose and design of the future attic. For the floor, the same materials that are used throughout the building are suitable: parquet, laminate, batten, ceramic tiles, etc.

At the end of construction, you can start decorating: think over the interior, install a staircase, arrange furniture, etc.

More about building an attic with your own hands (video):

Attic floor superstructure

The superstructure of the attic floor allows you to simply and effectively increase the living space without the use of expensive equipment and complex technologies, and such construction can be carried out both in a private house and in a typical urban building. Completion costs are roughly half that of new construction. The structure can be wooden - from a log and a bar; stone - from foam blocks, from brick and concrete; made of metal, as well as their various combinations.

Monolithic attic can be of any shape

It is necessary to determine which part of the building structure will carry the load from the extension. If the strength of the walls and foundation is not enough, it will be necessary to install racks outside the building on a separate foundation that will support the attic floor. A new attic frame on an independent foundation is also necessary in an old house if the supporting structures have significant wear. A change will be useful attic floorbecause it is most likely not designed for heavy loads.

The device of the attic involves the construction of a load-bearing structure, which depends on the roof truss system. For the construction of this structure, it is better to use light materials: a thin-walled profile and wood. They will help speed up construction, as fastening is done with bolts and rivets. The optimum slope angle of the rafters should be 45-60 degrees.

Important: When manufacturing a rafter system, one should focus on the conditions of the area where the construction is being carried out. The bearing capacity of the roof must be calculated for the pressure of wind, snow and roofing material.

The roofs themselves, picture below, can be:

• Single slope.
• Gable.
• Broken.
• Hip.

1 - simple gable roof; 2 - gable roof with an attic wall; 3 - hip; 4 - four-slope

The last two types are best suited for the attic, but the final choice is determined by the intensity of the load acting on the coating.

During construction, it should be taken into account that the width of the room should not be less than 4.5 m, and the area of \u200b\u200bthe entire attic floor should not be less than 7 m2, while the ratio of height and area is ideally 1: 2.

The easiest construction option is to build a frame attic with your own hands. To install the attic, it is necessary to remove the old roof, examine the condition of the supporting structures for damage and develop a floor plan. After that, the foundation and frame of the attic are mounted. Then the roof is installed and insulated.

More on how to build an attic with your own hands - video:

It is difficult to imagine modern design of a cottage or house without the presence of an attic floor. It is being built everywhere in old houses in the place where the dilapidated attic is located, thereby increasing the total living space. Do-it-yourself attic is a complex project, but doable.

DIY attic construction - first steps

In fact, this is not so - most specialists in the field attic construction unanimously affirm that from the angle of inclination and other changes in the structure of the rafters, the walls experience an enormous loadand are subject to significant deformation. Therefore, before making the attic on your own, we highly recommend contacting a specialist so that he makes preliminary calculations and, based on them, draws a project of a rafter system that is suitable in your case.

Construction of houses with an attic - choosing the right technology

Today, there are quite a few buildings on which there is a clearly defined attic. Is it or perfect new house, where the attic was designed in advance, or it was attached to an old building, which was originally thick-walled and solid. The easiest way to recognize an attic is by a gable sloping roof - this is the most suitable structure for building an attic floor.

The use of a gable sloped roof on the walls of the house compared to shed roof has a huge load. However, for an attic room, it is an order of magnitude more convenient, since it forms a lot of space inside.

At the gable broken structure there is a drawback - in the absence of a sufficient number of load-bearing supports, the roof is less durable in comparison with a single-pitched roofing system, and additional load-bearing supports put additional pressure on the walls. The construction of a gable sloped roof, as a rule, requires the use of layered rafters, which require massive building walls that can withstand vertical and horizontal loads.

How to build a house with an attic - roofing system

The convenience of the attic space determines the ability to move in full growth under the rafter system. Please note that you will need to allocate 10 to 15 cm for insulation from each surface, including the ceiling. So the first impression about the height of the attic may be wrong. However, the safety of the entire structure should be put in the first position. For the installation of additional reinforcing beams, it will be correct to cut some part of the attic, rather than risk the destruction of the entire roof frame.

Before you build a house with an attic, prepare the right tools and materials. With tools, everything is simple: a hammer, a hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw, all kinds of measuring instruments... Materials - nails or screws of various lengths, an antifungal agent, 40 * 150 mm board for the lathing, to create a continuous lathing - OSB sheets.

The type of roof covering determines the structure of the battens. If you plan to use soft material for the roof, then the best option would be a solid lathing, and if hard, the lathing is installed with your own hands. In the process of installing a frame made of wood (rafters and lathing), you should immediately make places for location roof windows... It is also necessary to think in advance about the reliable fastening of window frames.

Attic in a private house - auxiliary elements

There are main and secondary elements of the attic. The former include insulation, rafters and load-bearing structures, while the latter include windows, doors and drainage systems. Both those and others play an important role. The most difficult thing is to decide on the windows. Before you start choosing windows for the attic, you need to clearly understand their purpose in terms of functionality. Today the building materials market offers the buyer two types of windows - inclined and vertical.

It is known that the former are mounted directly in the plane of the roof and transmit natural (sunlight) light by 40–45% more than vertical ones. But in winter, the sloped windows are covered with snow, which negatively affects both the overall illumination of the room and their technical condition. The doors to the attic act as a kind of connecting link this room with the main building. They should be selected according to two main criteria: the first is strength, the second is good properties thermal insulation.

In addition, the doors should not stand out from the general interior and through them there should be a free entrance to the attic. Creating an attic with your own hands is impossible without a drainage system. In this regard, with vertical windows much easier, since they come complete with ebb tides, but when installing inclined windows, it is necessary to carefully consider the gutter system in advance, otherwise the room under the attic will constantly experience the negative effects of excess water and moisture.

Do-it-yourself attic - room insulation

Considering that atmospheric temperature drops directly affect the roof slopes, the attic must be carefully insulated. It is all the more necessary if the roof is covered with metal slate or metal tiles. Mineral wool slabs, which have sufficient high density and thickness.

Such material is environmentally friendly and also has excellent heat resistance, maximum fire resistance and easy installation. When installing thermal insulation, it is necessary to create a certain distance between the roof itself and the insulation; this gap should be left to ensure natural ventilation of the thermal insulation layer. The best thermal insulation considered external - in this case, a layer of insulation, together with vapor barrier and waterproofing, is laid on top of the rafter system, before the roofing material is installed.

This method allows you to achieve a monolithic coating, to avoid the appearance of cold bridges. However, home owners do not always have the opportunity to carry out insulation before laying the roof. In such cases, use internal insulation... The material is laid in the gaps between the rafters (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene) or sprayed onto all structural elements (ecowool, polyurethane foam).

Do-it-yourself construction of an attic on a house means that its owner approached the arrangement of the dwelling competently and practically, and each square meter is valued quite highly. However, self-erecting such a structure is not an easy task that will require a lot of effort, time and expense.

What is the definition of an attic?

An attic or attic floor, according to regulatory sources, is the space under the roof of a house used to locate residential or utility rooms... In simple words, an attic is an attic, which is equipped with separate rooms with the necessary heat and waterproofing.

The main difference between the attic superstructure and the residential floor is the height of the walls, which should be no more than 1.5 m from the outer sides of the house. If this legal requirement is not observed, the owner will have to pay taxes for the additional footage of the building.

It is possible to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe dwelling with the help of the construction of an attic even at the stage of construction design, and it is also permissible to remake the upper part of the roof for an add-on to a finished house. However, in order not to damage the foundation and walls of the building from the additional load, you need to know all the nuances of installing the extension.

Various types of add-ons

Before you start making an attic at home, you need to decide on appearance superstructure, which will not only meet the requirements, but also perfectly harmonize with the main part of the building. The following types of extensions of this type are most often used in practice:

1. One-level under a gable roof. The most common type of attic, since its construction does not require special construction skills, and the cost of materials will be minimal. However, a significant drawback of such a structure is its small size.
2. Sibling with. To make such a structure, it takes a little more effort than in the previous version, but due to the roof of this shape, interior room becomes noticeably more spacious.

The above options for add-ons will not be difficult to build even on old house... Indeed, in fact, this is the same attic room, but more equipped for a comfortable pastime.

For reference! There are also other types of attics, such as single-level with console or multi-level. They are more expensive and difficult to design. In addition, such varieties are not entirely suitable for erection on a finished building.

Materials required for construction

After the homeowner has decided what kind of attic floor he is going to build, the materials needed for the process should be prepared.

As a rule, for the construction of an attic on a built house, light materials are used, such as wooden beams, and also, in some cases, aerated concrete, which has good heat-saving properties. The frame construction is also suitable for such purposes.

The following elements are most often used for construction:

• rafter and slant legs;
• wives;
• mauerlat;
• crossbar;
• various braces, contractions and stands.

At the same time, it is better to choose the beams from conifers, such as spruce, pine and larch, the moisture content of which should be no more than 15%, and the grade - 1st or 2nd. In addition, it is imperative to treat the material with an antiseptic solution before erecting a construction site.

In the case when the attic floor is planned even during the design of the building, you can choose any materials for its construction, depending on the type of superstructure, its dimensions and the owner's preferences. Most often, such an attic is erected from brick, concrete and foam blocks.

Attic installation requirements

In addition to personal preferences, during the construction of the attic floor, certain SNiP standards must be observed. The main ones include the following conditions:

1. The thickness of the rafters is at least 250 mm, which will allow you to lay a suitable layer of insulation (more than 200 mm) between them.
2. Heaters should be chosen those that will not lose their properties in high humidity conditions. Foamed polystyrene is best suited for these purposes, since it is lightweight and retains heat well in the room. Mineral wool should not be used as a heater due to the fact that it absorbs moisture well, as a result of which it quickly collapses.
3. Hoods and vents must be installed between the layer of insulation and the roof so that the air moves freely in this space.
4. The outer side of the rafters should be covered with a waterproofing layer, and experts also recommend adding a layer of soundproofing materials.

Regardless of what type of attic is planned to be built, the listed requirements must be taken into account.

Attention! On the attic floor, a vapor barrier must be installed on the inner sides of the roof in accordance with the standards.

Attic construction step by step

After the project and all the drawings of the attic floor are completed, as well as the material for construction has been prepared, you can start work. However, if they were prepared by the future owner of the building on his own, he should still consult with an experienced specialist, since in such a matter the most accurate calculations are important, especially when it comes to erecting a superstructure on an old structure.

Erection of the frame

Do-it-yourself attic erection should begin by installing the Mauerlat on the inner sides of the outer walls. As a rule, for this the most commonly used wooden beamsthat can be attached to anchors, studs or brackets, depending on the material of the bearing walls. However, for wooden and frame buildings, there is no need to install a Mauerlat.

After the support is erected, it is necessary to install vertical racks on it, which can be made of wood, metal, or foam concrete. On top of them, transverse beams are placed with a step of no more than 2 meters. This distance will be equal to the location of the attic floor rafters. The whole structure is fastened to each other with metal corners, screws or nail plates and is pulled together by a jumper.

Then you should put the lower rafters. To do this, a groove is made at the base of the bar in order to securely install on the Mauerlat, and its upper part is cut to the desired length, respectively, with the angle of inclination.

The next step in the construction of an attic floor is the installation of the upper rafters. In order to determine correct angle and the center, this part of the frame is collected on the ground, and then fixed on the structure.

Installation of roofing

After the attic frame is installed, it must be covered with a vapor barrier material and fixed with metal brackets.

Attention! For vapor barrier, it is better to choose a fire-resistant and non-toxic material, especially if it is planned to equip a bedroom or a children's room in the attic.

Then a layer of insulation should be laid on the vapor barrier material, while avoiding the appearance of gaps between its plates and rafters. It must be secured by installing over the lathing. After that, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing to protect the wood from moisture, and roofing material is already laid on top of it.

As the above material shows, the construction of an attic can be done by hand, all kinds of videos that can be easily found on the Internet can help in this matter. However, you should not completely trust them, it would be more correct to seek advice from experienced specialists.

This is the most popular type of premises, since most structures are designed in this way - the attic requires much less funds for construction, it is erected very quickly. The rafter leg should be made of 150x50 mm timber, this is a calculation for an ordinary house of 7x10 meters. With such dimensions, you do not have to come up with anything superfluous - the usual rafter system of the structure will do. The angle of inclination of the leg will be from 45 to 60 degrees, it is advisable to make the angle smaller so that the parameters of the room are suitable not only for life, but also for normal rest.

The length of the rafter leg will be about 640 centimeters, while the width of the living space will be 450 centimeters and the height is 230-250. Such parameters will satisfy the requirements of most builders, but if more space is required, then sloping roofs should be preferred, but they will cost much more. Consider the simplest and efficient drawing mansards under a conventional gable roof.

The extension board can be exactly the same size as the leg to make it easier to build, but the vertical supports can be reduced so as not to overpay. A beam of 80x80 centimeters will be quite enough, taking into account the fact that the crossbar is laid 120x80. It is better not to save on the crossbar, since it serves as a supporting element, it will hold the suspended ceiling, chandeliers and other decorations. It is advisable to put the racks more often, since this will greatly facilitate the finishing work later. The construction of an attic under a gable roof is simple, inexpensive, and practical.

How to make an attic with your own hands under a sloping roof

Despite the fact that the roof itself is quite expensive to manufacture, it requires a little more labor for its installation, building an attic with your own hands will take much less time here. You get a ready-made box for its construction, you just need to sheathe everything with finishing materials, insulate and an excellent, spacious room is already ready. Required condition for construction - the width of the house should be from 5 meters. Since for comfortable stay in the attic, you need a height of 220 centimeters or more, and a width of at least 3 meters, preferably even more.

The upper harness is made of 80x80 timber, 60x60 mm ridge rafters. Such small bars are the result of the fact that there are a large number of them and they are installed every 70 centimeters ( see drawing). The side rafters are fastened with brackets, the attic floor beams should be at least 50x50 centimeters, preferably a little more so that there is a margin of safety. The calculation is made for a house of 6x6 meters, with an increase in the width of the structure, the strength of the materials will proportionally increase, since the load on the supporting elements will be much greater.

The cladding is made from lining boards, plywood, fiberboard or OSB boards. These are the cheapest materials that, with proper insulation, will be in no way inferior to European building materials. You can install them on profiles, in the same way as when creating frame structures... There is no need to install heavy supporting structures - the pressure will be minimal on the walls. If it is necessary to make heavy units (for attaching a plasma panel, under an aquarium, etc.), it will be possible to install reinforcements exactly at the points of attachment of the object, thus saving a lot of money on arranging the room.

Warming the room

If you initially want to make a house with good thermal insulation, so that a 400 W heater is enough to heat the attic, then you need to give preference to roofs with a solid crate. Let's take a closer look at how to make a really “profitable” roof that will save you money for all the years to come.

1. We make the top of the attic. There must be a vapor barrier, since the temperature in the room and in the air chamber above the ceiling will differ by 15-20 degrees in winter, the heat will "escape" from the room. From below, you tighten drywall, on which you can then apply decoration Materials (plaster, stretch the film, etc.), place a foil on top of the tightening to isolate the steam, insulate it with any roll insulation that you like. Such a system will eliminate condensation and increase heat efficiency by 35%.
2. Before you make an attic, you need to decide how you will cover the roof. Perfect option - slate, roofing material, OSB sheet and lathing. Such a system will significantly save the cost of heating the house, although the installation of building materials itself is expensive. It is better to make the crate thick so that the OSB board does not "play" on it, it is perfectly flat. Next, cover it with resin, lay a thick roofing material, it is advisable to choose the most flexible one. It will already be possible to simply nail the slate onto it. Some builders also use a 0.5 cm insulation gasket so that the slate adheres more tightly to a hard surface and does not loosen over time. Thermal efficiency, of course, also increases significantly.
3. We insulate from the inside. One of the most important aspects of house insulation is the installation of fiberboard and insulation boards. Between the rafters, the entire space (without "windows") should be filled with insulation, the joints of which should be glued or tightly knocked down (depending on the type of material). If funds permit, you can apply liquid polyurethane foam, right along the crate and the inside of the OSB. Cost of one square meter will be about 200 rubles, but it's worth it - you will eliminate possible condensation and insulate all roof slopes without seams.

When insulating, you can use ordinary foam - its effectiveness is small, but with a solid thickness of the material (up to 8-10 centimeters), it will be no worse than alternative building mixtures. The only big drawback is that it is not suitable everywhere for dense insulation, it also takes up a lot of space.

Insulation of the floor is a very important point, since a lot of heat goes away precisely through it, especially in brick houses, where a concrete slab plays the role of an overlap. But even a wooden blockhouse must be insulated between floors. To do this, it is enough just to put roofing material in two layers, and fix a fiberboard plate, mainly PT-100 or M-20, on it. Then you can already lay the usual floor, for example, warm linoleum. With minimal heating of the room, walking on it will be very warm, it heats up even when the first floor is heated.

How to build an attic the first time or the main mistakes of beginners

When we build an attic with our own hands, the main task is strength and few people pay attention to thermal efficiency, durability, and practicality. But after a few years, or even months, these "shoals" will be gradually shown, and their elimination will be very expensive. Consider typical mistakes newbies.

1. No anti-corrosive treatment... All materials, especially natural wood, should be treated with impregnations, special insect repellents and moisture-repellent suspensions. If this is not done, the service life of the wood will decrease many times.
2. Fastening of different boards of one rafter leg "by eye", without level, without taking into account the natural load on the roof in a snowy winter. As a result, the deflection of the rafters by 15-20% is ensured, therefore, the entire roof will be "walked".
3. Insulation is laid with gaps, there is no obligatory bandaging of layers. Some craftsmen initially lay a layer of insulation that is not at all suitable for our climatic zone, so the thermal efficiency of the room immediately decreases significantly.
4. No air cushion between the top layer of insulation and the roof... Thus, fungi can form, as well as condensation, which will not lead to anything good.
5. Using overly "light" materials. The strength characteristics of walls are not a primary goal, but they should not be relegated to the background. It is better to install an OSB plate with a thickness of 15 mm or more - it is not much more expensive, but the strength qualities will several times exceed the material with a thickness of 0.5 mm.

Pay attention to the environmental safety of materials, purchase wood, insulation materials only from well-known suppliers, as a poor-quality product can cause a lot of harm to your health. Also, you can not use anti-corrosion agents for outdoor work, which have a lot of hazardous chemicals in their composition. It is necessary to use suspensions intended for interior decorationhaving a hazard class 3 (non-hazardous to humans). Preference should be given to well-established manufacturing companies.

To use the entire possible area, give the house originality and significantly reduce heat loss through the roof - these are the tasks that the attic solves. If there is a certain margin of safety at the foundation, in this way you can turn a one-story house into a two-level one. It is also attractive that a mansard roof was built with your own hands, even without the presence of special construction skills. It is important not to be mistaken with the choice of materials and do everything according to the rules.

The windows on the regular floor are located in the walls. There are no or almost no walls in the attic. They are replaced by a roof. Therefore, the windows are made special: they must not only transmit light in sufficient quantities, but also withstand wind and snow loads, which are much greater on the roof than on the walls.

Roof windows

When planning an attic, it is worth considering the recommendations of SNiP. They recommend that the window area be at least 10% of the floor area. So if the attic is divided into several rooms, each should have a window.

Of all the methods shown in the photo for arranging skylights with an attic, an inclined installation is the easiest to implement. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure the proper degree of waterproofing of the junction, as well as use special models with a reinforced frame and reinforced glass - the load on the surface can be significant.

Advantages of a tilted roof window:

• more light, less sharp boundaries of light and shadow;
• the surface of the roof remains flat, its relief is not complicated;
• relatively easy installation.

When planning such a window, it must be remembered that its area increases with an increase in the angle of inclination. At what height it is more convenient to install such a window and how its height in centimeters increases depending on the tilt, look at the photo.

The steeper the slope relative to the floor, the lower the window height should be

The width of the window frame should be 4-6 cm less than the pitch between the rafters. Then it can be easily installed without disturbing the structure of the frame. If the window is wider, it is necessary to make a reinforced beam above it, calculate the load.

If you need to have a larger window, it is easier to put two narrow ones side by side. They look no worse than one big one, and there will be fewer problems.

When installing a dormer window, the geometry of the roof becomes more complicated: a valley appears on top and on the sides. Because of this, the rafter system becomes more complex in both planning and assembly. The difficulty of installing the roof covering also increases. All valleys are where leaks are most likely to occur. Therefore, everything must be done very carefully here. In regions with a large amount of snow, it is advisable to install snow holders above such windows: so that during a sharp descent they are not demolished.

Installation of a vertical window-dormer in the mansard roof

The advantage of such a window: you can stand near it in full growth. But they let in less light, the relief becomes more difficult and the roof becomes more problematic.

A recessed window is usually used if you make an exit to the balcony through it. In other cases, this device method is not the best way: there is little light, the shadows are very deep, which is tiring for the eye, the geometry also becomes more complicated, although not to the same extent as in the previous version.

The easiest way is to make a window at the end of the attic. In this case, no reinforced frame or reinforced glass is needed. It is quite enough just high-quality glasses. It is this option that can most often be seen on summer cottages: this is the most inexpensive option, which is easily done by hand.

Rafter system

When self-building private houses with an attic, usually a broken roof is chosen. It allows you to get a room of a large area, larger than under the gable.

With an equal width of the base (house), an attic room under a broken roof turns out to be larger than under a conventional gable. The rafter system becomes more complex, but the gable roof with an attic under a sloping roof is still more popular.

The construction of the sloping mansard roof is such that the overhangs can be lowered quite low, giving the house interesting view... But the long overhang of the roof serves not only a decorative role. They also close the upper part of the wall from precipitation and divert the bulk of the water away from the foundation. Although when planning you need to keep in mind that with strong winds they increase windage. Because of this, it is necessary to use more powerful boards and beams. Therefore, the size of the roof overhang is chosen based on several considerations, the main of which is weather conditions.

Tilt angle

Depends on the roofing material, but most of all on the region and weather conditions. The classic version is shown in the figure: the lower slopes in relation to the attic floor plane are tilted by 60 °, the upper ones by 30 °. Based on this data and the parameters of your building, all lengths can be calculated. Only it is worth considering that according to SNiP, the ceiling height in the attic cannot be less than 2 m. Then, by definition, it is an attic. A person will feel comfortable if the ceiling is raised to a height of at least 2.2-2.3 m. Based on this, according to the rules of geometry, calculate the required lengths.

In the classic version, the load from precipitation on the side surfaces may not be taken into account. Precipitation can only be held on the upper part, the angle of inclination of which is less than 45 °.

In general, the inclination of the side surfaces usually ranges between 45 ° and 80 °. The steeper the slope, the more windage it has, this must be taken into account: in regions with strong winds, it is better to make flatter roofs. Then wind loads will be perceived much better.

Types of rafter systems of sloping roofs

The construction of a sloping mansard roof is one of the options for the rafter system (the most common)

For the manufacture of the frame sloping roof do-it-yourself most often use pine lumber, grade - not less than 2. The choice of the section of the timber and boards depends on the size of the roof, the selected roofing (its weight), the wind and snow load in the region, the step of installing the rafters. All these parameters are taken into account in the calculation. The technique is prescribed in SNiP 2.08.01-89 and TKP 45-5.05-146-2009.

One of the options for constructing a frame with hanging rafters

Above in the figure will lead a drawing of a frame with hanging rafters. It can be realized only if the base of the upper triangle is no more than 4.5 meters (in this case, this is the width of the attic room). If more, you will have to make layered rafters, which should be based on load-bearing wall in the middle (the attic will be divided into two parts by a row of beams).

Another version of the upper part is shown in the photo below (the picture is clickable). In this case, the side rafters are reinforced with struts. They significantly increase the rigidity of the system.

There is a second way to achieve a similar effect - to establish contractions - in the picture they are only outlined with barely visible lines. The length of the side rafter leg is divided by three, in these places contractions are set. They will be needed if the roofing will have a solid weight.

A variant of the device of the rafter system of a broken roof - with struts that increase the rigidity of the system

For a small building in terms of dimensions, the roof frame can be generally simple: at the top there are two hanging rafter legs, a tightening, floor beams, racks and side rafters (pictured below).

The device of the rafter system of a broken attic roof for a small house

How to calculate a sloping roof

The broken roof attic of a small house (no more than 6-7 meters wide) has been built so many times that, based on experience, we can say which materials are worth using. Many parameters are dependent on other materials. For example, the step of installing the rafters is tied to the parameters of the insulation. In order for the insulation to have as little waste as possible, installation was easier, it is necessary that the distance from one rack to another be slightly less than the width of the insulation (by 20-30 mm). So, if you are going to use mineral wool, its width is 60 cm. Then the racks must be installed so that the gap between two adjacent ones is 57-58 cm and no more.

The width of the board for the rafter leg is again determined based on the insulation. For the middle zone of Russia, the required thickness of basalt wool is 200-250 mm. That's not all. In order for the insulation to dry out, a ventilation gap of 20-30 mm is required (without it, the condensate will gradually rot the wood and render the mineral wool unusable). In total, it turns out that at a minimum, the width of the rafter leg should be 230 mm. Board thickness - not less than 50 mm. This is in regions with light winds and not very heavy snowfalls. Summing up, for all rafters - ridge and side - a board of 230 * 50 mm is required.

If lumber with such characteristics turns out to be too expensive, it will be possible to make insulation in two directions: part along the rafters, part, filling the crate, across. It is possible to lay at least 100 mm of basalt wool, therefore you can take a standard board of 50 * 150 mm and leave 50 mm for the ventilation gap, or order a non-standard 130 * 50 mm. See what is more profitable for the money.

For racks and beams, it is better to take a beam of at least 80 * 80 mm, better - 100 * 100 mm. Especially in areas with difficult weather conditions - with heavy snowfall or strong winds.

Order a more accurate calculation from specialists. This is a long-term process, which consists of collecting loads from the roofing material, the structural elements themselves, wind and snow loads. After that, according to a certain formula, there is a selection of elements. For more information on how the calculation is carried out, see the next video.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof: installation procedure

The Mauerlat device on mansard roofs is no different from the standard version. If or logs, the upper crown can be used as a Mauerlat. It is only pretreated with an impregnation with high protective properties.

If the wall is made of foam blocks, a reinforced monolithic belt is arranged on top of it. On brick wall or folded from shell rock, other similar materials, the device of such a belt is optional. Waterproofing is laid on the wall in two layers, and on top - a timber treated with an antiseptic - 150 * 150 mm or a log. It is fixed with embedded pins.

When assembling all the elements, long nails are used - at least 150 mm in length. In the most critical places, it is better to connect three or more elements with bolts or studs with double-sided threads. It is advisable to reinforce all joints with steel plates or corners.

The first way

The installation of the roof rafters is done in two ways. First: they collect the parts on the ground, then they are raised up in finished form. There, the first to expose the extreme structures that will become gables. They are placed vertically, secured. It is often more convenient to secure them with long bars nailed to the wall (temporary). The following are inserted into the prepared grooves in the Mauerlat (they are made with the required step) assembled structures... They are exposed strictly vertically, carefully fixed. If necessary, install additional temporary spacers that fix them in the desired position. Side beams are installed.

How to build a sloping roof in this way, to collect nodes, see the video below.

Second way

The second method - the construction of a sloping roof is carried out sequentially collecting elements right on the spot. This method is more convenient if the structure turns out to be large and when assembled it can be lifted only with the use of special equipment (crane).

First, the floor beams are laid. Racks and braces are attached to them, temporary spacers are placed to hold them in the vertical direction. Next, the rafter upper and side legs are assembled, puffs and jibs are installed.

During installation, the following sequence of actions is observed: first, the extreme elements are installed and set in the desired position, securely fixed. Use temporary spacers if necessary. A fishing line, a rope, a lace is pulled between them, which will serve as a guide for the installation of all subsequent elements. This simple move allows you to get perfect geometry (do not forget to check the slope angle, verticality or horizontalness).

On top of the racks, puffs are attached - bars, to which the side rafters are then fixed and on which the tightening of the upper triangle is installed. Puffs are attached with metal corners. Since the beams are long, they sag. This is further eliminated - after installing the upper rafter legs - using vertical beams of fixed or adjustable height. And temporarily they can be propped up with racks (so as not to pull the entire system).

To make it easier to maintain the desired angle when installing the side rafter legs, templates are made according to which cuts are made. But since the geometry of DIY buildings is rarely perfect, adjustments may be needed. To check the resulting angle of inclination, another template is knocked down from several boards, which checks the correct installation.

If the standard length of lumber - 6 meters - is not enough, or they order the required length (expensive) or build up. When building up, two boards with a size of at least 0.6 meters are nailed to the joint (30 cm on each side of the joint). They are nailed on both sides or bolts are used.

A reliable way to build rafters. Patch length - not less than 60 cm

After installing the side rafters, it remains to install the upper ones. For them, a template is also made, it is pre-cut on the ground, and installed at the top.

The top can be made in different ways. Its structure depends on the width of the base. How to do it, see the photo below.

Since the device of a mansard broken roof does not provide for the presence of a ridge, a bar is packed in the middle for tightening, to which the slopes are attached, fixing the triangle in the required position.

Nodes and their drawings

When installing the rafter system, questions may arise regarding the assembly of nodes - the intersection and connection of several structural elements. In the photo you see drawings of key connections.

The second option for connecting the side layered rafters and the upper triangle. Bolts are used for more secure fastening.

How to make a do-it-yourself fastening of the upper triangle and rafter leg on the attic roof

The methods of attaching the rafter legs to the Mauerlat or, as in this case, to the side beam are shown in the figure below. To make it easier to mount a heavy element, a stubborn board (bar) is nailed to the rafter from below, which limits its movement: the board rests against the edge and does not allow it to fall below.